Brazil and the Brazilians : portrayed in historical and descriptive sketches

Front matter

o g i c a 1 Sem

PRINCETON, N. J.

Division v DONATION

Preface

The popular notion of Brazil is, to a certain extent, delineated in the accompanying side-illustrations.

Mighty rivers and virgin forests, palm-trees and jaguars, anacondas H and alligators, howling monkeys and screaming parrots, diamond-mining, revolutions, and earthquakes, are the component parts of the picture formed in the mind’s eye. It is probably hazarding nothing to say that a very large majority of general readers are better acquainted with China and India than with Brazil. How few seem to he aware that in the distant Southern Hemisphere is a stable constitutional monarchy, and a growing nation, occupying a territory of greater area than that of the United States, and

- that the descendants of the

s

Preface.

Portuguese hold the same relative position in South America as the descendants of the English in the northern half of the New "World! How few Protestants are cognizant of the fact that in the territory of Brazil the Reformed religion was first proclaimed on the "Western Continent!

The following work, by two whose experience in the Brazilian Empire embraces a period of twenty years, endeavors faithfully to portray the history of the country, and, by a narrative of incidents connected with travel and residence in the land of the Southern Cross, to make known the manners, customs, and advancement of the most progressive people south of the Equator.

While “Itineraries” relating to journeys of a few mouths in various portions of the Empire have been recently published, no general work on Brazil has been issued in Europe or America since the “Sketches” of the senior author, (D. P. 3L,) which was most favorably received in England and the United States, but has long been out of print.

Although the present volume is the result of a joint effort, the desire for greater uniformity caused the senior author j to place his contributions in the hands of his junior colleague, (J. C. F.,) with the permission M to use the name of the former in the third person singular. The amount of matter from each pen is, however, more nearly equal than at first sight would appear.

The authors have consulted every important work in French, German, English, and Portuguese, that could throw * light on the history of Brazil,

Preface.

and likewise various published memoirs and discourses read before the flourishing “Geographical and Historical Society” at Rio de Janeiro. For statistics they have either personally examined the Imperial and provincial archives, or have quoted directly from Brazilian state papers.

For important services, the authors are happy to acknowledge their indebtedness to Conselheiro J. F. de Cavalcanti de Albuquerque, His Brazilian Majesty’s Minister-Plenipotentiary at Washington, and M. le Chevalier d’ Aguiar, Brazilian Consul-General at Hew York; to Hon. Ex-Governor Kent, of Maine, and Ferdinand Coxe, Esq., of Philadelphia, both of whom held high diplomatic positions at Rio de Janeiro; to Hon. Judge J. H. Petit, formerly Consul in one of the most important Horthern provinces of Brazil; to Mrs. L. A. Cuddehy, late of Rio de Janeiro ; and to Rev. H. A. Boardman, D.D., of Philadelphia. They also express their obligations to Mr. I). Bates, Thos. Rainey, M.D., and to A. R. Egbert, M.D., for valuable contributions to the Appendix.

The numerous illustrations are, with few exceptions, either from sketches, or daguerreotype views taken on the spot, and have been faithfully as well as skilfully executed by Messrs. Van Ingen & Snyder, of Philadelphia. The accompanying map, prepared by Messrs. J. H. Colton & Co., is probably the most perfect ever published of an Empire which has never been surveyed. In 1855 the junior author travelled more than three thousand miles in Brazil, making corrections of this map as he journeyed ; and his sincere thanks are heartily given to Senhor John Lisboa, of Bahia, who has devoted himself to the geography of his native land.

THE POKTUGUESE LANGUAGE.

The Portuguese language is universally spoken in Brazil. It is not a dialect of the Spanish, as many suppose, but, as Yieyra says, is the eldest daughter of the Latin. It is much more masculine than the Castilian, and in its strength, compactness, and expressiveness clearly indicates its Roman parentage. Sismondi, Schlegel, and Southey have fully treated of Portuguese literature, and their opinion is given in the pages of this work. Mr. Pickering, the lexicographer, was an excellent Portuguese scholar, but, besides Mr. Longfellow, there are probably not three literati in the United States acquainted with the rich language and belles-lettres of Lusitania. IVe are glad to learn that Messrs. Appleton are about to add to their Ollendorf series a “Method for learning Portuguese,” and hope that many of our countrymen will thus be induced to acquire the beautiful language of de Camoes.

The term Dom ( dominos ) is not used indiscriminately, like the Don of the Spanish, but is only applied by the Portuguese and their descendants to monarchs, princes, and bishops.

The termination ao is pronounced oun, — thus, nao (not) is pronounced like the English word noun. Words ending in oes are pronounced by inserting an n between e and s; thus, de Camoes — (Eng. de Camoens.)

One milreis, (a thousand reis, — nearly equal to fifty cents,) the Brazilian coin so frequently mentioned in these pages, is always represented by the dollar sign after the mil: thus, 6$500 is five mil, five hundred reis, — not quite three dollars. On page 170 read “fifty milreis, (about twenty-five dollars,)” and not “fifty milreis, (about twenty-five cents.)”

Chapter I. Page

The Bay of Rio de Janeiro — Historic Reminiscences — First Sight of the Tropics — Entrance to the Harbor — Night-Scenes — Impressions of Beauty and Grandeur — Gardner and Stewart — The Capital of Brazil — Distinction of Rio de Janeiro 13

Chapter II

Landing — Hotel Pharoux — Novel Sights and Sounds — The Palace Square — Rua Direita — Exchange — The “ Team” — Musical Coffee-Carriers — Custom-House — Lessons in Portuguese, and Governor Kent’s Opinion of Brazil — Post-Office — Dislike of Change — Senhor Jose Maxwell — Rua do Ouvidor — Shops and Feather- Flowers — The Brazilian Omnibus can be full — Narrow Streets and Police-Regulations— A Suggestion to relieve Broadway, New York — Passeio Publico — Brazilian Politeness — The “Gondola” — The Brazilian imperturbable — Lack of Hotels — First Night in Rio de Janeiro 24

Chapter III

Discovery of South America — Pinzon’s Visit to Brazil — Cabral — Coelho — Americus Vespucius — The Name “ Brazil” — Bay of Rio de Janeiro — Martin Affonso de Souza — Past Glory of Portugal — Coligny’s Huguenot Colony — The Protestant Banner first unfurled in the New World — Treachery of Villegagnon — Contest between the Portuguese and the French — Defeat of the Latter — San Sebastian founded — Cruel Intolerance — Reflections 46

Chapter IV

Early State of Rio — Attacks of the French — Improvements under the Viceroys — Arrival of the Royal Family of Portugal — Rapid Political Changes — Departure of Dom John VI. — The Viceroyalty in the Hands of Dom Pedro — Brazilians dissatisfied with the Mother-Country — Declaration of Independence — Acclamation of Dom Pedro as Emperor 61

Chapter V

The Andradas — Instructions of the Emperor to the Constituent Assembly — Dom Pedro I. dissolves the Assembly by Force — Constitution framed by a Special Commission— Considerations of this Document — The Rule of Dom Pedro I. — Causes of Dissatisfaction — The Emperor abdicates in favor of Dom Pedro II '. 73

Chapter VI. Page

The Praia do Flamongo — The Three-Man Beetle — Splendid Views — The Man who out down a Palm-Tree — Moonlight — Rio “Tigers” — The Bathers — Gloria Hill — Evening Scene — The Church — Marriage of Christianity and Hoathenism — A Sermon in Honor of Our Lady — Festa da Gloria — The Larangeiras — Ascent of the Cercovado — The Sugar-Loaf 86

Chapter VII

Brotherhoods — Hospital of San Francisco de Paula — The Lazarus and the Rattlesnake— Misericordia — Sailors’ Hospital at Jurujuba — Foundling-Hospital — Recolhimento for Orphan-Girls — New Misericordia — Asylum for the Insane — Jos6 d’ Anchieta, Founder of the Misericordia — Monstrous Legends of tho Order — Friar John d’Almeida — Churches — Convents 107

Chapter VIII

Illumination of the City — Early to Bed — Police — Gambling and Lotteries — Municipal Government — Vaccination — Beggars on Horseback — Prisons — Slavery — Brazilian Laws in favor of Freedom — The Mina Hercules — English Slave-Holders — Slavery in Brazil Doomed 124

Chapter IX

Religion — The Corruption of the Clergy — Monsignor Bedini — Toleration among the Brazilians — The Padre — Festivals — Consumption of Wax — The Intrudo — Processions— Anjinhos — Santa Priscilliana — The Cholera not cured by Processions 140

Chapter X

The Home-Feeling — Brazilian Houses — The Girl — Tho Wife — The Mother — Moorish Jealousy — Domestic Duties — Milk-Cart on Legs — Brazilian Lady’s Delight — Her Troubles — The Marketing and Watering — Kill the Bixo — Boston Apples and Ice — Family Recreations — Tho Boy — Tho Collegio — Common-Schools — Highest Academies of Learning — Tho Gentleman — Duties of the Citizen — Elections — Political Parties — Brazilian Statesmen — Nobility — Orders of Knighthood 161

Chapter XI

Praia Grande — San Domingo — Sabbath-Keeping — Mandioca — Ponte do Area — View from Ingd — The Armadillo — Commerce of Brazil — The Finest Steamship Voyage in the World — American Seamen’s Friend Society — The English Cemetery — English Chapel — Brazilian Funerals — Tijuca — Bennott’s — Cascados — Excursions — Botanical Gardens — An Old Friend — Home 187

CHAPTER Xn.

The Campo Santa Anna — Tho Opening of the Assemblea Geral— History of Events succeeding the Acclamation of Dom Pedro II. — The Regency — Constitutional Reform — Condition of Political Parties before the Revolution of 1840 — Debates in tho House of Deputies — Attempt at Prorogation — Movement of Antonio Carlos — Deputation to the Emperor — Permanent Session — Acclamation of Dom Pedro’s

Contents.

PAQS

Majority — The Assembly’s Proclamation — Rejoicings — New Ministry — Publio Congratulations — Real State of Things — Ministerial Programme — Preparations for the Coronation — Change of Ministry — Opposition come into Power — Coronation postponed — Splendor of the Coronation — Financial Embarrassments — Diplomacy — Dissolution of the Camara — Pretext of Outbreaks — Council of State — Restoration of Order — Sessions of the Assembly — Imperial Marriages — Ministerial Change — Present Condition 211

Chapter XIII

The Emperor of Brazil — His Remarkable Talents and Acquirements — New York Historical Society — The First Sight of D. Pedro II. — An Emperor on Board an American Steamship — Captain Foster and the “ City of Pittsburg” — How D. Pedro II. was received by the “ Sovereigns” — An Exhibition of American Arts and Manufactures— Difficulties overcome — Visit of the Emperor — His Knowledge of American Authors — Success among the People — Visit to the Palace of S. ChristovSo — Longfellow, Hawthorne, and Webster 231

Chapter XIV

Brazilian Literature — The Journals of Rio de Janeiro — Advertisements — The Freedom of the Press — Effort to put down Bible-Distribution — Its Failure — National Library — Museum — Imperial Academies of Fine Arts — Societies — Brazilian Historical and Geographical Institute — Administration of Brazilian Law — Curious Trial 251

Chapter XV

The Climate of Brazil — Its Superiority to other Tropical Countries — Cool Resorts —

Trip to SL Alexio — Brazilian Jupiter Pluvius — The Mulatto Improvisor — Sydney Smith’s “ Immortal” Surpassed — A Lady’s Impressions of Travel — An American Factory — A Yankee House — The Ride up the Organ Mountains — Forests, Flowers, and Scenery — Speculation in Town-Lots — Boa Vista — Height of the Serra do3 Orgoes — Constancia — The “Happy Valley” — The Two Swiss Bachelors — Youth renewed — Prosaic Conclusion — Todd’s “ Student’s Manual” — The Tapir — The Toucan — The Fire-Flies — Expenses of Travelling — Nova Fribourgo — Canta Gallo — Petropolis 268

Chapter XVI

Preparations for the Voyage to the Southern Provinces — The Passengers — Uhatuba — Eagerness to obtain Bibles — The Routine on Board — Aboriginal Names — San Sebastian and Midshipman Wilberforce — Santos — Brazilians at Dinner — Incorrect Judgment of Foreigners — S. Vincente — Order of Exercises — My Cigar — Paranagud — H.B.M. “Cormorant” and the Slavers — Mutability of Maps — Russian Vessels in Limbo — The Prima Donna — An English Engineer — Arrive at San Francisco do Sul 303

Chapter XVII

The Province of Parand — Message of its First President — MatS, or Paraguay Tea —

Its Culture and Preparation — Grows in North Carolina — San Francisco do Sul — Expectations not fulfilled — Canoe-Voyage — My Companions not wholly carnivorous— A Travelled Trunk — The Tolling-Bell Bird — Arrival at Joinville — A Now Settlement 320

Contents.

Chapter XVIII. Page

Colonia Donna Francisca — The School-Teacher — The Clergyman — A Turk — Bible- Distribution — Suspected — A B C — The Fallen Forest — The House of the Director — A Runaway — The Village Cemetery — Moral Wants — Orchidaceous Plants — Charlatanism — San Francisco Jail — The Burial of the Innocent, and the money-making Padre — The Province of Sta. Catharina — Desterro — Beautiful Scenery — Shells and Butterflies — Coal-Mines — Province of Rio Grande do Sul — Herds and Herdsmen — The Lasso — Indians — Former Provincial Revolts — Present Tranquillity assured by the Overthrow of Rosas 334

Chapter XIX

Journey to San Paulo — Night-Travelling — Serra do Cubatao — The Heaven of the Moon — Frade Vasconcellos — Ant-Hills — Tropeiros — Curious Items of Trade — Ypiranga — City of San Paulo — Law-Students and Convents — Mr. Mawe’s Experience contrasted — Description of the City — Respect for S. Paulo — The Visionary Hotel-Keeper 354

Chapter XX

History of San Paulo — Terrestrial Paradise — Reverses of the Jesuits — Enslavement of the Indians — Historical Data — The Academy of Laws — Course of Study — Distinguished Men — The Andradas — Jose Bonifacio — Antonio Carlos — Alvares Machado — Vergueiro — Bishop Moura— A Visit to Feijo — Proposition to abolish Celibacy — An Interesting Book — The Death of Antonio Carlos de Andrada — High Eulogium — Missionary Efforts in San Paulo — Early and Present Condition of the Province — Hospitalities of a Padre — Encouragements — The People — Proposition to the Provincial Assembly — Response — Result — Addenda — Present Encouragements 366

Chapter XXI

Agreeable Acquaintance — Old Congo’s Spurs — Lodging and Sleeping — Company — • Campinas — Illuminations — A Night among the Lowly — Arrival at Limeira —

A Pennsylvanian — A Night with a Boa Constrictor — Eventful and Romantic Life of a Naturalist — The Bird-Colony destined to the Philadelphia Academy of Natural Sciences — Ybecaba — Sketch of the Vergueiros — Plan of Colonization — Bridge of Novel Construction — Future Prospects 396

Chapter XXII

A Now Disease — The Culture of Chineso Tea in Brazil — Modus Operandi — The Deceived Custom-House Officials — Probable Extension of Tea-Culture in South America — Homeward Bound — My Companion — Senhor Josfi and a Little Difficulty with him — California and the Musical Innkeeper — Early Start and the Star- Spangled Banner — The Senhores Brotero of S. Paulo — Fourth of July inaugurated in an English Family — “Yankee Doodle” on the Plains of Ypiranga — Lame and Impotent Conclusion — Astronomy under Difficulties — Deliverance — Return to Rio de Janeiro 416

Contents.

Chapter XXIII. Page

The Brazilian North— Extent of the Empire— The Falls of Itamarity— Gigantic Fig- Tree — The Keel-Bill — A Plantation in Minas-Geraes — Peter Parley in Brazil — Sweet Lemons — Baronial Style — The Padre — Vesper-Hours — The Plantation- Orchestra — The White Ants obedient to the Church — The Great Ant-Eater — The Paca — The Musical Cart — The Mines and other Resources of Minas-Geraes — Coffee : its History and Culture— The Province of Goyaz — Stingless Bees and Sour Honey — Mato Grosso — Long River-Route to the Atlantic — A New Thoroughfare — Lieutenant Thomas J. Page — The Survey of the La Plata and its Affluents — First American Steamer at Corumba — Steamboat-Navigation on the Paraguay — Officers of the American Navy — Dr. Kane and Lieutenant Strain — Diamond and Gold Mines the Hinderers of Progress — The Difference in the Results from Diamonds and Coffee 432

Chapter XXIV

Cape Frio — Wreck of the Frigate Thetis — Campos — Espirito Santo — Aborigines — Origin of Indian Civilization — The Palm-Tree and its Uses — The Tupi-Guarani —

The Lingoa Geral — Ferocity of the Aymores — The City of Bahia — Porters — Cadeiras — History of Bahia — Caramuru — Attack on the Hollanders — Measures taken by Spain — The City retaken — The Dutch in Brazil — Slave-Trade — Sociability of Bahia — Mr. Gilmer, American Consul — The Humming-Bird — Whale-Fishery — American Cemetery — Henry Martyn — Visit to Montserrat — View of the City — The Emperor’s Birthday — Medical School — Public Library — Image-Factory — The Wonderful Image of St. Anthony — No Miracle — St. Anthony a Colonel — Visit to Valenja — Daring Navigation — In Puria Naturalibus — The Factory and Colonel Carson — American Machinery — Skilful Negroes — Return Home — Commerce with the United States 464

Chapter XXV

Departure from Bahia — The Vampire-Bat — His Manner of Attack — The Bitten Negro — Annoyances magnified — Anacondas — Une that swallowed a Horse — The Marmoset — Province of Alagoaz — The Republic of Palmares — Pernambuco — The Amenities of Quarantine-Life — Improvements at the Recife — Peculiarities of Pernambucan Houses — Beautiful Panorama — -Various Districts of the City — A Bible- Christian — Extraordinary Fanaticism of the Sebastianists — Commerce of Pernambuco— The Population of the Interior — The Sertanejo and Market-Scene — The Sugar and Cotton Mart — The Jangada — Parahiba do Norte — Natal — Ceard — The Paviola — Temperature and Periodical Rains — The City of Maranham — Judge Petit’s Description — The Montana — Departure 503

Chapter XXVI

Magnificence of Nature in the Brazilian North — The City of Para — The Entrance of the Amazon — The first Protestant Sermon on these Waters — Parallel to the Black- Hole of Calcutta — Effects of Steam-Navigation — Improvements in Para — The Canoa — Bathing and Market Scenes — Produce of Pard — India-Rubber — Pard Shoes — The Amazon River — Mr. Wallace’s Explorations — The Vaca Marina — Cetacea of the Amazon — Turtle-Egg Butter — Indian Archery — Brazilian Birds and Insects — Visit to Rice-Mills near Pard — Journey through the Forest — The Paraense Bishop’s Suspicions of Dr. Kidder — State of Religion at Pard 539

Contents,

Chapter XXVII. Fagb

Amazonas — Its Discovery — El Dorado — Gonjalo Pizarro — His Expedition — Cruelties— Sufferings — Desertion of Orellana — His Descent of the River — Fable of the Amazons — Fate of the Adventurer — Name of the River — Settlement of the Country — Successive Expeditions up and down the Amazon — Sufferings of Madame Godin — Present State — Victoria Regia — Steam-Navigation — Effects of Herndon and Gibbon’s Report — Peruvian Steamers — The Future Prospects of the Amazon 563

Conclusion 582

Notes 590

APPENDICES.

Appendix A. — Chronological Summary of the Principal Events that have transpired in the History of Brazil 591

Appendix B. — Abstract of the Brazilian Constitution, sworn to on the 25th of March, 1824, and revised in 1834 593

Appendix C. — Lines composed by D. Pedro II 595

Appendix D. — Slavery and the Slave-Trade in Brazil — England and Brazil 596

Appendix E. — Tables of Brazilian Coins, Weights, and Measures 597

Appendix F. — Population — The Yellow Fever of Brazil 599

Appendix G. — Imports, Exports, Revenue, Ac. of Brazil 604

Appendix H. — Commerce and Steamship-Navigation between Brazil, and the United States and Europe 607

Appendix I. — Report from the Committee on the Post-Office and Post-Roads 623

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THE SUGAR-LOAF, (ENTRANCE TO THE BAY OF RIO.)

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CHAPTER i

TEIE BAY OF BIO DE JANEIRO — HISTORIC REMINISCENCES — FIRST SIGHT OF THE TROPICS — ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOR — NIGHT-SCENES — IMPRESSIONS OF BEAUTY AND GRANDEUR — GARDNER AND STEWART — THE CAPITAL OF BRAZIL — DISTINC- TION OF RIO DE JANEIRO.

The Bay of Naples, the Golden Horn of Constantinople, and the Bay of Kio de Janeiro, are always mentioned by the travelled tourist as pre-eminently worthy to be classed together for their extent, and for the beauty and sublimity of their scenery. The first two, however, must yield the palm to the last-named magnificent sheet of water, which, in a climate of perpetual summer, is enclosed within the ranges of singularly-picturesque mountains, and is dotted with the verdure-covered islands of the tropics. He who,

Brazil and the Brazilians.

in Switzerland, has gazed from the Quai of Vevay, or from the windows of the old Castle of Chillon, upon the grand panorama of the upper end of the Lake of 'Geneva, can have an idea of the general view of the Bay of Rio de Janeiro; and there was much truth and beauty in the remark of the Swiss, who, looking for the first time on the native splendor of the Brazilian bay and its circlet of mountains, exclaimed, “C’est I’Uelvetie Meridionale !” (It is the Southern Switzerland !)

What a glorious spectacle must have presented itself to those early navigators — De Solis, Majellan, and Martin Afionso de Souza — who were the first Europeans that ever sailed through the narrow portal which constitutes the entrance to Nitherohy, (. Hidden Water,) as these almost land-locked waters were appropriately and poetically termed by the Tamoya Indians! Though the mountain-sides and borders of the bay are still richly and luxuriantly clothed, then all the primeval forests existed, and gave a wilder and more striking beauty to a scene so enchanting in a natural point of view, even after three centuries of the encroachments of man. De Souza — as the common tradition runs — supposed that he had entered the mouth of a mighty river, rivalling the Orinoco and the Amazon, and named it Rio de Janeiro, ( River of January ,) after the happy month — January, 1531 — in which he made his imagined discovery. Whatever may have been the origin of this misnomer, it is not only applied to the large and commodious bay, but to the province in which it is situated, and to the populous metropolis of Brazil, which sits like a queen upon its bright shores.

We all of us know, either by our own experience or by that of others, what is the sight of land to the tempest-tossed voyager. When the broad blue circle of sea and sky, which for days and weeks has encompassed his vision, is at length broken by a shore, — even though that shore be bleak and desolate as the ice-mountains of the Arctic regions, — it is invested with a surpassing interest, it is robed in undreamed-of charms. What, then, must be the emotions of one who, coming from a latitude of stormy winter, beholds around him a land of perpetual summer, with its towering and crested palms, and its giant vegetation arrayed in fadeless green !

In December, 1851, when the Hudson and the Potomac were

Entrance to the Harbor.

bridged by the ice-king, and clouds and snow draped the sky and the land, our good vessel stood out upon a stormy sea. A few weeks of gales and rolling waves, varied by light winds and calms, brought us to Cape Frio. This isolated peak shoots up as steeply as the chalk-cliifs of England, as high as the Rock of Gibraltar, and is covered to its very summit with verdure. No clouds — as I last beheld them in conjunction with terra firma — were frowning over this summer-land. The balmiest breezes were blowing, and the palms upon the adjacent hills were gracefully waving above the world of vegetation — so new to me — which gleamed in the warm sunlight. It was in the midst of such a scene that the day, not without evening-glories, faded away. The morning sun shone clearly, and the lofty mountain-range near the entrance to the harbor stood forth in an outline at once bold, abrupt, and beautiful.

The first entrance of any one to the Bay of Rio de Janeiro forms an era in his existence : —

“ an hour

Whence he may date thenceforward and forever.”

Even the dullest observer must afterward cherish sublimer views of the manifold beauty and majesty of the works of the Creator. I have seen the most rude and ignorant Russian sailor, the immoral and unreflecting Australian adventurer, as well as the cultivated and refined European gentleman, stand silent upon the deck, mutually admiring the gigantic avenue of mountains and palmcovered isles, which, like the granite pillars before the Temple of Luxor, form a fitting colonnade to the portal of the finest bay in the world.

On either side of that contracted entrance, as far as the eye can reach, stretch away the mountains, whose pointed and fantastic shapes recall the glories of Alpland. On our left, the Sugar-Loaf stands like a giant sentinel to the metropolis of Brazil. The round and green summits of the Tres Irmaos ( Three Brothers ) are in strong contrast with the peaks of Corcovado and Tijuca; while the Gavia rears its huge sail-like form, and half hides the fading line of mountains which extends to the very borders of Rio Grande do Sul. On the right, another lofty range commences near tho principal fortress which commands the entrance of the bay, and, forming curtain-like ramparts, reaches away, in picturesque head-

Brazil and the Brazilians.

lands, to the bold promontory well known to all South Atlantic navigators as Cape Frio. Far through the opening of the bay, and in some places towering even above the lofty coast-barrier, can be discovered the blue outline of the distant Organ Mountains, whose lofty pinnacles will at once suggest the origin of their name.

The general effect is truly sublime; but as the vessel draws nearer to the bold shore, and we see, on the sides of the double mount which rises in the rear of Santa Cruz, the peculiar brightleaved woods of Brazil, with here and there the purple-blooming quaresma-tree, — and when we observe that the snake-like cacti and rich-flowering parasites shoot forth and hang down even from the jagged and precipitous sides of the Sugar-Loaf, — and as we single

out in every nook and crevice new evidences of a genial and prolific clime, — emotion, before overwhelmed by vastness of outline, now unburdens itself in every conceivable exclamation of surprise and admiration.

The breeze is wafting us onward, and we pass beneath the white walls of the Santa Cruz fortress. A black soldier, dressed in a light uniform of enviable coolness, leans lazily over a parapet, while higher up on the ramparts a sentinel marches with leisurely tread near the glass cupola which, illuminated at night, serves as a guide to the entering mariner. Immediately an enormous trumpet is protruded from this cupola, and our good ship is saluted by a stentorian voice, demanding, in Portuguese-English, the usual questions put to vessels sailing into a foreign port. We soon glide from under the frowning guns of Santa Cruz, and are just abreast Fort Lage, celebrated as the first spot of the bay ever inhabited by civilized man. The scene which now opens before us is exquisitely beautiful. Far to our left, beneath the Sugar-Loaf, but nearer to the city, is the fortress of St. John, bright amid the surrounding verdure. Passing through a fleet of gracefully shaped canoes and market-boats, manned by half-clad blacks, we cling to the steep right-hand coast, which soon precipitously terminates, and reveals to us the lovely little Bay of Jurujuba, — the “five-fathom” bay of the English. Again looking to the opposite side, beyond St. John, we have a glimpse of the graceful Cove of Botafoga (the Bay of Naples in miniature) and the pretty suburb of the same name, which seems like a jewel set between the smooth white beach and

ENTRANCE TO THE BAT OF RIO DE J (After a Sketch by Mrs. L. A. Cuddehy.)

Tropic Night-scenes.

the broad circle of living green. Here too we have another of the many views of the Corcovado and the Gavia, which, as we vary our position, are ever changing and ever beautiful.

Now the vast city looms up before us, extending, with its white suburbs, for miles along the irregular shores of the bay, and running far back almost to the foot of the Tijuca Mountains, diversified by green hills which seem to spring up from the most populous neighborhoods. These combined circumstances prevent a perfect view of Rio de Janeiro from the waters. While gazing upon the domes and steeples, on the white edifices of the city, and the bright verdure-clad Gloria, Santa Teresa, and Castello Hills, we are cut short in our admiration by the cry of a Brazilian official : — “ Let go your anchor.” The command is obeyed, and we are comfortably lying to under the formidable-looking guns of the Forteleza Villegagnon. Our vessel swings round and reveals to us on the opposite shore the city of Praia Grande, the parti-colored cliff of St. Domingo, and upon a mere rock, which seems a fragment of the adjoining shore, the little church of Nossa Senhora de Boa Yiagem, in which Roman Catholic voyagers are supposed to pay their vows, and around which many graceful palm-trees are nodding in the cool ocean-breeze. While awaiting the visit of the custom-house officers we remain upon deck, and tire not of scenes so novel and exciting. Little steamers and graceful falluas* are passing and repassing from Praia Grande and St. Domingo. White sails are dotting the bay as far as the eye can reach, while all around us the serried masts of Brazilian and foreign vessels are evidences that we are in the midst of a vast and busy mart.