With General Grant in the East

Preface

. When these letters appeared in the Philadel phia Evening Telegraph there was no intention of preparing them for more extended circulation. The widely-read columns of the New York Herald have given to the public the admirable letters of Mr. John Russell Young, and through them have excited great and deserved interest in the journey of General Grant. Urged by kind friends, the author of these pages has consented to allow them to appear in this shape, having taken from them the char acter of letters, and making a few additions from his journal. Accompanying the party, by invitation, as the physician to one of its members, the author took interest in jotting down daily impressions made by the enthusiastic reception of General Grant in the East ; and thinking that the knowl-

PREFACE.

. edge of the good feeling, evinced by the magni tude of the preparations, could not be too widely extended among his countrymen at home, he consented to publish the letters which formed the basis of the present little work. The author makes no pretence to a book of travels, but simply adds these few pages as cor roborative of the beautifully-written reports of Mr. Young, which, when they appear in book form, will surely be read by all who take an interest in the welfare of their country and in its standing abroad. If, then, this little volume will awaken such sentiments, and create an in terest from which will arise a reciprocal feel ing towards our trans-Pacific friends, it will serve the purpose for which alone it is now given to the public. J. M. K. PAGE 17 01 7 CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Departure from Paris in Mid- Winter — A Disagreeahle Night's Journey — Farewell to Marseilles — The Mediterranean 11

Chapter II

Naples and its Beauties — The Snows of Crete — The Land of the Pharaohs — Egyptian Life and Climate— Is Egypt a Paradise for Invalids ? — Down the Red Sea to Aden.

Chapter III

At the Gates of India — The Landing at Bofnhay — The Welcome to the Ex-President — The British Governor's State Carriage — Keeping Cool under an Indian Sun — General Grant Inspecting the City and its People — Practical Cremation in the Open Air — The Amenities of Oriental Hospitality — An Unreal Life in Fairy-Land —The Ex-President Entertained by a Parsee — State Dinners and a Round of Gayety 36

Chapter IV

The Wonders of Agra — The Taj Mahal — An Excursion to Jeypoor — The Abandoned Temples of Amber — A Sacrifice — A Nautch Dance — Impressions of Delhi CONTENTS. PAGE 80

Chapter V

The Ex-Kingdom of Oude— Tent-Life in India and its Charms — Benares and its Temples — The Holy Well —The Golden Temple— The Ghats— The Mosque of Aurungzebe .....••••

Chapter VI

Farewell to Benares — Servants in India — A Long, Hot Journey — Arrival at Calcutta — Palatial Quarters — The Government House — An Excursion to Barrackpoor — An Entertainment to General Grant — End of the Trip through India ........ 92

Chapter VII

British Burmah, and the Political Situation there — Across the Bay of Bengal — Arrival at Rangoon — A Representative Burmese Mansion — The Golden Pagoda ■ — The Buddhist Religion — A Dinner at the Government House — The Jail at Rangoon — A Teak Saw-mill 104

Chapter VIII

The Mysteries and Miseries of Holy-Stoning — The Island of Penang — Visit to Malacca — Singapore . . . 121

Chapter IX

Siam — The Approach to Bangkok — Storm-Drenched Passengers — A Perfect Example of a Tropical River — The First Glimpse of Bangkok — The Palace of the King of Siam — Our Palace Home — Audience with the King — Ayuthia and its Ruins CONTENTS. 9

Chapter X. Page

Return to Singapore — The French China Mail Steamship " Irraoaddy" — Reception at Saigon — The Climate of Saigon — Across the Gulf of Tonquin — Sunday at Sea — Arrival at Hong-Kong ...... 158

CHAPTER XL

The Interesting Features of Hong-Kong — The Beauty of the Bay — The Chinese and their Occupations — The Visit to Canton — On Board the "Ashuelot" — Salute- Firing — An Official Call on the Viceroy — An Orderly Crowd 108

Chapter XII

The Tartar General returns General Grant's Visit — The Ceremonies of the Occasion — The Procession to the Viceroy's Palace — An Orderly Crowd — A Scene from the "Arabian Nights" — The Dinner at the Viceroy's Palace— The Streets of Canton at Night . . .183

Chapter XIII

Macao — Farewell to Hong-Kong — Swatow — Amoy — The Yang-tse-Kiang — Reception at Shanghai . . .193

Chapter XIV

Crossing the Yellow Sea — Japan — Harbor of Nagasaki — The Beauties of the Inland Sea — Shimonosaki — Kobe — Osaca — Excursion to Kioto — Yokohama — Homeward Bound — Voyage across the Great North Pacific — San Francisco and its Golden Gate .... LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Map of Route facing title Stromboli 17 The Agra Fort 04 The Nautch Dance 69 Ruins of Old Delhi 74 The Great Hall of Audience, in the Palace of Delhi . 78 The Ghats, Benares 89 Elephant Armed for War 1 ;,i I Cultivation of Rice . . . . . . .150

Chapter I

Departure from Paris in Mid- Winter — A Disagreeable Night's Journey — Farewell to Marseilles — The Mediterranean. The tickets had been bought and safely pock eted, and all was now arranged for the Eastern tour to which we had so long looked forward. The great yellow sheets that had been handed us and duly stamped, then signed by all the par ties interested, gave us to understand that we were each entitled to a first-class passage via Marseilles ; the upper coupon to be used on the French ship across the Mediterranean, the lower, printed in English, to be handed to the agent of the P. and O. Company on the Indian Ocean. Bombay was our ultimate destination, and yet upon reaching it we were but to stand upon the threshold of the great unknown (to us) lands our geographies told us we had yet to explore.

Of course it was a matter of sincere regret that our visit to Paris should be made so short ; some of the party had only just arrived after a boister ous voyage across the Atlantic in the coldest weather of mid-winter, but with their minds still filled with visions of polar scenes, though viewed from the port-holes of the " Illinois" and safe under the protection of Captain Shakford ; still the prospect of a climate more suited to their tastes softened the tortures of parting, and some what chilled the feelings which under any other circumstances would have made them regard the attractions of Paris with all the reputed warmth of true Americans. On Tuesday, January 21, after nightfall, which came rather earlier than usual, from an accumu lation of dark leaden clouds that foretold a heavy snow-storm, the small party whose journeyings will fill this little journal gathered together for the first time, and, wrapped in the thickest of shawls and ulsters, formed part of a little cluster of Americans anxiously awaiting the departure of the Marseilles train.

Our party, en. route for the East, consisted of General and Mrs. Grant, Hon. A. E. Borie, Colonel Fred. D. Grant, Mr. John Russell Young, and myself. It seems odd that when one makes up his mind to travel all others seem to be of the same opinion, certainly all Paris seemed determined to leave in that train for the south. Such confusion can only A DISAGREEABLE NIGHTS JOURNEY. 13 be seen to be appreciated, and only then at a French railway depot ; the indescribable chatter ing, guards running to and fro, baggage being deposited in its very unsafe repository at the rear of each carriage, the securing of seats and then the keeping of them, each added its quota to the noise and confusion, and at last when the smoke of battle cleared away, the doors of the carriages securely locked, our little party of six found itself pretty well divided and distributed throughout the train.

I can only answer for myself; to me the pros pect was uninviting enough, and the reality turned out a night of positive torture. Packed in like sardines, a half-dozen uncom fortable mortals sat bolt upright throughout the night. My companions were all Frenchmen, evidently of the travelling class. Each one hav ing carefully buttoned up his coat, substituted a soft cap for his hat, then wrapped himself feet and all in the folds of a huge outspread shawl, and, after making himself thoroughly comfortable externally, produced a bottle of Bordeaux and comforted the inner man; then lighting a cigar, he firmly wedged himself within the narrow limits of what constituted a " first-class pas sage." Self-defence made me do likewise. Ii* the smoke threatened instant suffocation, we could, or at least some one would, ventilate by lowering the window-sash ; when the freezing process became absolutely intolerable, the genial warming influence of tobacco smoke was again endured !

Passing Dijon and Lyons, we whirled along at the rate of about forty miles an hour, through a driving snow-storm. Such a night as an offset to a journey to be limited only by the circuit of the globe was not encouraging, still it offered a fair example of railroad comforts on the Continent, and was therefore jotted down under the heading of " experience." At ten the next morning we arrived at Mar seilles. What a difference a few hours made in changing climates ! Though the air was still cool, it was more like that of an April day, balmy and well tempered by the soft winds that came across the great blue Mediterranean. The day was spent in looking up the ship, that lay at a wharf quite a distance from the business part of the city. In fact, it was with some difficulty that Mr. Young, Colonel Grant, and I, found her at all, for after wandering about for the greater part of the afternoon among the ship ping in the harbor, exercising our French as well as muscles, questioning whomsoever we met as to the probable whereabouts of what we sought, we at length discovered her, having gained in our search a most intimate acquaintance with the intricacies of this most venerable city.

The last evening ashore in civilized lands we dined at the " Hotel de la Paix," our only guests FAREWELL TO MARSEILLES. 15 being General Badeau and Mr. J. B. Lippincott, of Philadelphia. There seemed to be a gloom < -ver the party, caused by the thought that on the morrow home and friends would be left far be hind, that we were about to plunge into the great unknown, where news could only reach us after many weeks, and when letters would eventually come to hand, their contents would read like a page of ancient history. We were standing upon the brink of civilization, in a few hours we would cut adrift and sail over many seas before we again could expect to see the like of what we left be hind. ISsext morning, January 23, we embarked on the " Labordonnais," of the " Messageries Mari times Rationales," and after bidding farewell to our friends, Consul Gould and wife, Mr. Lippin cott, and General Badeau, severed our last link and sailed out of the beautiful harbor of Mar seilles.

It was a fine day ; a few dark clouds now and then floated over us and obscured the sun, a strong east wind blew up a heavy sea about us, and soon we were ploughing through its waves, with the barren island of Monte Christo on our right, and towering above us on its lofty seat the exquisite chapel of " ISTotre Dame de la Garde." Xext morning brought us a cool, beautiful day. in the early hours we came in sight of the snow clad mountains of Corsica, and at noon we passed the Straits of St. Bonifacio, after which a strong wind came up that made the sea rough and de cidedly uncomfortable. Our fellow-passengers had now become to us more than an incon gruous collection of mortals; singling them out or taking them in groups, we soon became friends, learned their histories, listened to their stories, and finally within a short time felt as if we had known them all our lives.

Among others we noticed one whose face alone made him remarkable, forming as it did an index to a mind whose workings have been the marvel of learned men. This was Mariette-Bey, the famous Egyptologist, who has done so much to wards bridging the great chasm that lies between modern and ancient Egypt, and upon which re volves so much of the early history of the whole world. As a contrast we had a double doctor of medicine and divinity, who was journeying to wards Cyprus, as a forerunner of English civilization, but whose real object, we all fancied, was to exhibit to the astonished Cyprians the virtues of a musical box, that had the merit of playing unceasingly the hymns of Moody and Sankey, repeating each verse in feebler tones till finally it w*ould die a lingering death at the early morn ing hours. STROMBOL1.

Chapter II

Naples and its Beauties — The Snows of Crete — The Land of the Pharaohs — Egyptian Life and Climate — Is Egypt a Paradise for Invalids ? — Down the Red Sea to Aden. Sunday, January 26, had been a beautiful, warm, sunshiny day, and as I sat in the cabin after tea, I noticed all the party collected about the table hard at work putting into execution the many resolves made before leaving Paris — of keeping a journal. Why should I not do the same ? It certainly seemed an opportune time to begin, for we had passed through the Straits of Messina, and, with Scylla and Charybdis far be hind, were fairly launched into deeper and safer seas, and certainly could anticipate much plea santer sailing in climes more suited to our tastes. At daybreak of this day we passed Stromboli, and at mid-day a distant volcanic group on our right, with a few dark clouds lazily rolling over its highest peak, w*as pointed out as Sicily, with smoking Ætna.

On the morning of the day be fore, after a charming sail, we came in sight of Vesuvius, and by nightfall were anchored in the beautiful harbor of Naples, just outside the ship ping, facing the city. Some of the party went ashore, but we all met again and dined aboard 2 ship, and after dinner sat on the quarter-deck with our cigars, and thoroughly enjoyed the de lightful evening. Dark night brought out the beauties and grandeur of Vesuvius, which thun dered away and flashed like an iron foundry at night, with streams of molten lava pouring down its sides. Numerous little boats surrounded us, and the sweet strains of a tenor voice came from their cluster, and brought back many recollections of happy hours attached to the familiar words of Santa Lucia; but soon our reveries were ended, and by midnight the anchor chain groaned its accompaniment, and we steamed down the rocky coast of Italy, when all retired to rock and roll in discomfort once again.

The succeeding days brought us gradually in creasing warmer weather, but on the 28th cold blasts would occasionally come from the south east, making it even uncomfortable to remain on deck without a light overcoat ; this we discovered was due to their passage over the snow moun tains of Crete, that later came into view. The 29th again brought, us warmer and more equable weather; at nightfall a small light on our port bow, which at first was mistaken by those not versed in the difficult science of astron omy for a star, was pointed to the group of anxious passengers as the light-house of Alex andria. But as we could not enter the harbor till day- THE LAND OF THE PHARAOHS. 19 light, the prospect of a quiet night was hailed with delight, and all necessary arrangements made for an early disembarkation in the morning.

Bright sunshine brought on deck those of our party who wished to see for the first time the shores of Egypt. Could it be possible, Egypt ! land of the mummies ! land of the pyramids, of all the delights of early bojiiood days! The sun rose rapidly over the city before us, and soon its powerful rays, reflected from every dome and turret, and from the great expanse of sandy beach shaded only by a few straggling palms, fiercely concentrated upon us and bade us a warm welcome to the lands where it rules supreme. A small boat emerged from the dense mass of shipping and approached us. Manned by Egyp tian oarsmen, it carried the Egyptian flag. We soon discerned the features of General Stone, chief of staff of the Khedive, our consul-general, Mr. Farnham, and Judge Morgan. A hearty welcome awaited us, with many kind messages for the General from the Khedive, with also an invitation from him to revisit Cairo.

But the train which was to take us to Suez was await ing, so, after handing over to Hassim (the guard and right-hand man of the consulate) all our luggage, great and small, we took passage in the consul's boat and steered for the stone wharf that forms the breakwater of the bay. Two large open carriages, with prancing black horses, were in attendance, surrounded of course by the dense mass of a motley crowd, that we afterwards learnt was to form the greater part of our escort wherever we we*nt in the East. Each carriage was preceded by an Arab runner, dressed in a white flowing garment, the ends of which were carelessly thrown over his shoulder, leaving in view a pair of the thinnest of black legs, that soon became almost invisible as he kept ahead of the fleet Arab horses, carrying in his hand a wand.

Our glimpse of Alexandria was like a flash ; the panorama was composed of mosques, bazaars, palms, donkeys, and camels, to say nothing of beggars that fairly swarmed, as we dashed up one street and clown another, until finally we reached the railroad depot. The sudden transi tion from the most extreme cold of winter to so thorough a tropical clime was bewildering, to say nothing more; the strange appearance of everything and everybody we saw gave even the beg gars a fascination. Hassim and the luggage had not yet put in an appearance ; the confusion became extreme, hun dreds of strange, gesticulating creatures, with a great waste of unintelligible Arabic, surrounded us ; messengers were sent off in all directions ; the blind beggar seemed to regain his eyesight for the nonce at the prospect of forthcoming " Back sheesh," the lame became wild with excitement.

THE LAND OF THE PHARAOHS. 21 At last rumors reached us that Hassim had been found, and in a few moments an ox-cart moved majestically around the corner, Hassim at the head, with his long sabre clanging at his side. Half the population of Alexandria aided the oxen in bringing up the lost luggage, and in a few moments all was safely deposited in the waiting train, and we were en route for Suez. At mid-day we lunched at Ben-a-lassie, then changed cars, as our train went on to Cairo, and off" we were again, now skirting the fresh-water canal that takes the Nile water to Suez, now crossing a branch of the river that aids in forming the great delta. In some places a large mound or collection of mounds would attract attention, and from the few little openings at the side would emerge human beings, mostly urchins, proving it to be a villa°*-e. Then as-ain scattered mud houses would appear, roofless and uninviting, the long neck of a camel or his hump towering above the walls, showing his portion of the habitation.

Along the pathway a string of camels heavily laden, led by a tall, well-formed Egyptian, and followed by his family with all his worldly goods, or again the noble lord would lead the family camel or donkey, upon which sat his spouse, her beautiful dark eyes peering beneath her veiled face, gazing with curiosity upon the passing train. What splendid-looking fellows the Egyptians are, so well formed, so erect. The road fairly swarmed with little black-eyed children, whose great beauty soon attracted our attention. It was the most superb day I can remember, in the shade just cool enough to wear a thin overcoat over our summer clothing, and yet even in the sun at mid-day not oppressively warm. It was said to represent the coldest day of an Egyp tian mid-winter, and certainly to the natives it must have felt extremely cold.

It was a strange sight to see large fields irrigated by the stream running many feet below their level, men stand ing knee-deep in the water throwing it by bas ketfuls into the canal above them, keeping this up day after day, and thereby paying off the heavy taxes of this much-oppressed people. For tunately for them clothing is not required, and food is almost a luxury, for all their earnings are quietly pocketed by the multitude of officials be fore they reach the government exchequer. About 4 p.m. we entered the desert, and con tinued in its perfect sea of sand as far as the eye could reach until we neared Ismailia, and then our road lay along the Suez Canal. Our journey was accomplished by half-past seven that evening. Covered with dust and completely be wildered by all the strange sights we had seen, we found ourselves knee-deep in a dusty road, surrounded by a perfect Bedlam of clamorous Arabs, who seemed to threaten annihilation to EGYPTIAN LIFE AND CLIMATE. 23 the whole party in their attempts to carry our luggage.

I shall not soon forget the comic aspect of the scene as each trunk made its appearance from the van and was seized upon by at least a half-dozen eager wretches, who fought for its possession till finally even the staid and dignified Hassim, always on hand, was forced to unstrap his mighty weapon and mount guard over the treasures, using the argument of his scabbard, which proved successful. The hotel was some distance off; guides with lanterns made their appearance, and the party moved on in Indian file along the barren road paved with the sand and dust of centuries, vainly wishing that the far-famed civilization of Egypt had only lasted a few thousand years longer. The hotel, built almost on the edge of the water, was a large, dismal structure, a perfect labyrinth of dark and narrow passage-ways, with its great stone walls and stone pavements enclosing a court-yard filled with tropical trees and flowers.

Everything attached to it showed the endeavor on the part of all to keep cool, cool and damp, for almost the only moisture known in this part of Egypt comes from the heavy dews at night, the yearly rainfall amounting to an average of but one inch. Where was the " Venetia ;" had she yet passed the canal ? Our first inquiries received the grati fying response that the noble ship which was to carry us onward had reached Port Said, and was at that moment slowly moving along the canal ; but later intelligence gave us to understand that the " Venetia" was delayed, and that we would spend the next day in becoming more intimately acquainted with the curiosities of Suez and its surroundings. Bright and early the following morning, after a night somewhat devoted to the slaying of the Egyptian mosquito, our party separated into little bands for the purpose of in vestigating the town.

The General called upon the Pasha. With our consul-general and Colonel Grant I wandered over the entire place, entered the bazaars, examined their contents, and finally, when the streets became too crowded with the curious, had recourse to donkeys as a means of progression. How can human beings dwell in such quarters ? The main streets or avenues were narrow enough to be called passage-ways, made so probably as a protection from the sun, but from what would seem to be but crevices between the mud walls, we could see a procession of women with water jugs emerge, or urchins as numerous as the flies that tortured us would swarm in hundreds from unknown regions. Glancing upward, our eyes would meet a pair as black as coals, shining through the lattice of a narrow window, but the startling beauty of her who ow*ned them was a secret not to be solved by the gaze of the impu- EGYPTIAN LIFE AND CLIMATE. 25 dent foreigners.

Where do so many blind beggars come from ? Look at the children tortured by the myriads of flies, see the amount of oph thalmia among them and their filth, and the question is answered. An oculist would make a fortune here, my informant said, for this disease is not alone limited to the poor and sickly. We entered a mosque at mid-day, following the crowd that sought its holy retreat as the bell tolled from the tower, and the saintly hermit, blind also, called to prayers. Prostrating them selves within its holy precincts, they supplicated "Allah" with a fervor that was truly edifying, while we gazed in silence at the outer door, not thinking our devotion was sufficient to make us energetic enough to take off our shoes and enter. As we passed along a tax-gatherer was going his rounds, the assessor noting down the name of each inhabitant of the street, and preparing to do his full duty in making all the necessary returns of the taxes that were thus " farmed out."

Suez is the type of an Eg}*ptian town, and the ways and doings of its people are those of all the people of Egypt, so, not having an opportu nity of visiting Cairo, some of us were obliged to be contented with the picture of what we saw, and apply its lesson to the consideration of Egyptian life. It affords a sad example of a hard-working, thrifty people, whose life of toil gives the means for the extravagance and luxury of those that govern them. It is said that the climate tends to indolence, yet I think I rarely saw harder work than I have seen in Egypt, certainly in ancient times workmen were not allowed to idle here. Many questions arose in the course of conversation with several of the leading foreign residents, some of whom had come to Egypt for their health, others for business purposes ; among others, the subject of the climate and its effects on invalids, which w*as to me most interesting.

Every one agreed that only too many were yearly sent to baffle w*ith the strong winds, the great and sud den changes, the bad smells, and uninviting and undigestible diet, with the upsetting influences of a sea-voyage, when under the most favorable circumstances of a luxurious home they could be scarcely expected to keep body and soul to gether. The climate of Egypt, were it a thousand times purer and more heavenly than it is, cannot re store what would require a miracle on the part of the Almighty, and yet our much-esteemed consul met my inquiries by a recital of a long list of names of those who had died one, two, or three weeks after leaving shipboard. The general im pression seems to be that for those, particularly the middle-aged, who are overworked by business or professional cares, who seek rest and novelty, with entire change of air and surround- IS EGYPT A PARADISE FOR INVALIDS? 27 ings, and who wish to escape the rigor of a cold winter, or for the delicate woman who will bask in sunshine and enjoy the freshest of air, Egypt is the place ; they should go there about Novem ber 1 and remain till the 1st of March.

For the young and growing, with delicate lungs or pre disposition to disease, give them a more bracing mountain air, where outdoor exercise is invited, and open-air life means not mere lolling, day after day, in an open boat. Those that are dis eased, particularly with pulmonary troubles, keep them by all means at home, where we have cli mates equal to Egypt, and of much easier access. The nights are damp and chilling, the days warm, in the sunshine hot; rheumatism is a frequent complaint in consequence. Moreover, the style of Eastern architecture is intended for a hot climate. The houses are of brick or stone, the floors the same ; draughts circulate on all sides ; the ceilings are high. Invalids come here in winter, when all these contrivances work for them the wrong way. The shades are intensified by the brightness of the sun, and in one step, from intense heat you find yourself in a chilling atmosphere.

General Stone, who has lived in Egypt now many years with his family, tells me that house keeping is not more troublesome than at home. One can have as good cooking, and marketing is attended with variety ; but this is not found in the hotels, and one must keep house in Cairo or Alexandria to find it. If my little journal will then keep our sick at home, it will serve a good purpose. Over the desert the tall masts of a vessel ap peared, and we were told that as the English ensign was flying at the P. and 0. agency, it was the " Venetia," of the Peninsular and Oriental Line, that was about passing out of the canal into the Gulf of Suez. The party were all col lected together, the steam-launch was awaiting us and our luggage, and the Pasha of Suez stood upon the landing, after returning the General's visit of the morning, ready to bid farewell and speed the parting guest.