Brazil and the Brazilians

Front matter

BRAZIL

AND TPIE

BRAZILIANS,

Preface

The popular notion of Brazil is, to a certain extent, delineated in the accompanying side-illustrations.

Mighty rivers and virgin forests, palm-trees and jaguars, anacondas and alligators, howling monkeys and screaming parrots, diamond-mining, revolutions, and earthquakes, are the component parts of the picture formed in the mind's eye. It is probably hazarding nothing to say that a very large majority of general readers are better acquainted with China and India than with Brazil. How few seem to be aware that in the distant

^' Southern Hemisphere is a "vY\|' stable constitutional monarchy, and a growing nation, occupying a territory of greater area than that of the United States, and that the descendants of the

Preface.

Portuguese hold the same relative position in South America as the descendants of the English in the northern half of the New World! How few Protestants are cognizant of the fact that in the territory of Brazil the Reformed religion was first proclaimed on the Western Continent !

The following work, by two whose experience in the Brazilian Empire embraces a period of twenty years, endeavors faithfully to portray the history of the country, and, by a narrative of incidents connected with travel and residence in the land of the Southern Cross, to make known the manners, customs, and advancement of the most progressive people south of the Equator.

While "Itineraries" relating to journeys of a few months in various portions of the Empire have been recently published, no general work on Brazil has been issued in Europe or America since the "Sketches" of the senior author, (D. P. K.,) which was most favorably received in England and the United States, but has long been out of print.

Although the present volume is the result of a joint effort, the desire for greater uniformity caused the senior author to place his contributions in the hands of his junior colleague, (J. C. F.,) with the permission to use the name of the former in the third person singular. The amount of matter from each pen is, however, more nearly equal than at first sight

^ '\^JS The authors have consult-

H|^Sf^' e d every important work in |H|P|t^ French, German, English, and Portuguese, that could throw ' light on the history of Brazil,

Preface. 5

and likewise various published memoirs and discourses read before the flourishing "Geographical and Historical Society" at Rio de Janeiro. For statistics they have either personally examined the Imperial and provincial archives, or have quoted directly from Brazilian state papers.

For important services, the authors are happy to acknowledge their indebtedness to Conselheiro J. F. de Cavalcanti de Albuquerque, His Brazilian Majesty's Minister-Plenipotentiary at Washington, and M. le Chevalier d'Aguiar, Brazilian Consul-General at New York; to Hon. Ex-Governor Kent, of Maine, and Ferdinand Coxe, Esq., of Philadelphia, both of whom held high diplomatic positions at Rio de Janeiro; to Hon. Judge J. U. Petit, formerly Consul in one of the most important Northern provinces of Brazil; to Mrs. L. A. Cuddehy, late of Rio de Janeiro ; and to Rev. H. A. Boardman, D.D., of Philadelphia. They also express their obligations to Mr. D. Bates, Thos. Rainey, M.D., and to A. R. Egbert, M.D., for valuable contributions to the Appendix.

The numerous illustrations are, with few exceptions, either from sketches, or daguerreotype views taken on the spot, and have been faithfully as well as skilfully executed by Messrs. Van Ingen & Snyder, of Philadelphia. The accompanying map, prepared by Messrs. J. H. Colton & Co., is probably the most perfect ever published of an Empire which has never been surveyed. In 1855 the junior author travelled more than three thousand miles in Brazil, making corrections of this map as he journeyed ; and his sincere thanks are heartily given to Senhor John Lisboa, of Bahia, who has devoted himself to the geography of his native land.

THE POKTUGUESE LANGUAGE.

The Portuguese language is universally spoken in Brazil. It is not a dialect of the Spanish, as many suppose, but, as Vieyra says, is the eldest daughter of the Latin. It is much more masculine than the Castilian, and in its strength, compactness, and expressiveness clearly indicates its Roman parentage. Sismondi, Schlegel, and Southey have fully treated of Portuguese literature, and their opinion is given in the pages of this work. Mr. Pickering, the lexicographer, was an excellent Portuguese scholar, but, besides Mr. Longfellow, there are probably not three literati in the United States acquainted with the rich language and belles-lettres of Lusitania. We are glad to learn that Messrs. Appleton are about to add to their Ollendorf series a "Method for learning Portuguese," and hope that many of our countrymen will thus be induced to acquire the beautiful language of de Camoes.

The term Bom (dominies) is not used indiscriminately, like the Don of the Spanish, but is only applied by the Portuguese and their descendants to monarchs, princes, and bishops.

The termination So is pronounced oun, — thus, nao (not) is pronounced like the English word noun. Words ending in oes are pronounced by inserting an n between e and s; thus, de Camoes — (Eng. de Camoens.)

One milreis, (a thousand reis, — nearly equal to fifty cents,) the Brazilian coin so frequently mentioned in these pages, is always represented by the dollar sign after the mil: thus, 5$500 is five mil, five hundred reis,— not quite three dollars. On page 170 read "fifty milreis, (about twenty-five dollars,)" and not "fifty milreis, (about twenty-five cents.)"

Chapter I. Page

The Bay of Rio de Janeiro — Historic Reminiscences — First Sight of the Tropics — Entrance to the Harbor — Night-Scenes — Impressions of Beauty and Grandeur — Gardner and Stewart — The Capital of Brazil — Distinction of Rio de Janeiro 13

Chapter II

Landing — Hotel Pharoux — Novel Sights and Sounds — The Palace Square — Rua Direita — Exchange — The " Team" — Musical Coffee-Carriers — Custom-House — Lessons in Portuguese, and Governor Kent's Opinion of Brazil — Post-Office — Dislike of Change — Senhor Jose Maxwell — Rua do Ouvidor — Shops and Feather- Flowers — The Brazilian Omnibus can be full — Narrow Streets and Police-Regulations — A Suggestion to relieve Broadway, New York — Passeio Publico — Brazilian Politeness — The "Gondola" — The Brazilian imperturbable — Lack of Hotels — First Night in Rio de Janeiro 24

Chapter III

Discovery of South America — Pinzon's Visit to Brazil — Cabral — Coelho — Americus Vespucius — The Name " Brazil" — Bay of Rio de Janeiro — Martin Affonso de Souza — Past Glory of Portugal — Coligny's Huguenot Colony — The Protestant Banner first unfurled in the New "World — Treachery of Villegagnon — Contest between the Portuguese and the French — Defeat of the Latter — San Sebastian founded — Cruel Intolerance — Reflections 46

Chapter IV

Early State of Rio — Attacks of the French — Improvements under the Viceroys — Arrival of the Royal Family of Portugal — Rapid Political Changes — Departure of Dom John VI. — The Viceroyalty in the Hands of Dom Pedro — Brazilians dissatisfied with the Mother-Country — Declaration of Independence — Acclamation of Dom Pedro as Emperor 61

Chapter V

The Andradas — Instructions of the Emperor to the Constituent Assembly — Dom Pedro I. dissolves the Assembly by Force — Constitution framed by a Special Commission — Considerations of this Document — The Rule of Dom Pedro I. — Causes of

Dissatisfaction— The Emperor abdicates in favor of Dom Pedro II 73

Contents.

Chapter VI. Page

The Praia do Flamengo — The Three-Man Beetle — Splendid Views — The Man who cut down a Palm-Tree — Moonlight — Rio. " Tigers" — The Bathers — Gloria Hill — Evening Scene — The Church — Marriage of Christianity and Heathenism — A Sermon in Honor of Our Lady — Festa da Gloria — The Larangeiras — Ascent of the Cercovado — The Sugar-Loaf 86

Chapter VII

Brotherhoods — Hospital of San Francisco de Paula — The Lazarus and the Rattlesnake — Misericordia — Sailors' Hospital at Jurujuba — Foundling-Hospital — Reoolhimento for Orphan- Girls— New Misericordia — Asylum for the Insane — Jose" d'Anchieta, Founder of the Misericordia — Monstrous Legends of the Order — Friar John d' Almeida — Churches— Convents 107

CHAPTER VIIL

Illumination of the City — Early to Bed — Police — Gambling and Lotteries — Municipal Government — Vaccination— Beggars on Horseback — Prisons — Slavery — Brazilian Laws in favor of Freedom — The Mina Hercules — English Slave-Holders — Slavery in Brazil Doomed ..' 124

Chapter IX

Religion — The Corruption of the Clergy — Monsignor Bedini — Toleration among the Brazilians — The Padre — Festivals — Consumption of Wax — The Intrudo — Processions — Anjinhos — Santa Priscilliana — The Cholera not cured by Processions..... 140

Chapter X

The Home-Feeling — Brazilian Houses— The Girl — The Wife — The Mother — Moorish Jealousy — Domestic Duties — Milk-Cart on Legs — Brazilian Lady's Delight — Her Troubles — The Marketing and Watering — Kill the Bixo — Boston Apples and Ice — Family Recreations — The Boy — The Collegio — Common-Schools — Highest Academies of Learning — The Gentleman — Duties of the Citizen — Elections — Political Parties — Brazilian Statesmen — Nobility — Orders of Knighthood 161

Chapter XI

Praia Grande — San Domingo — Sabbath-Keeping — Mandioca — -Ponte de Area — View from Inga" — The Armadillo — Commerce of Brazil — The Finest Steamship Voyage in the World — American Seamen's Friend Society — The English Cemetery — English Chapel — Brazilian Funerals — Tijuca — Bennett's — Cascades — Excursions — Botanical Gardens — An Old Friend — Home 187

Chapter XII

The Campo Santa Anna — The Opening of the Assemblea Geral — History of Events succeeding the Acclamation of Dom Pedro II. — The Regency — Constitutional Reform — Condition of Political Parties before the Revolution of 1840 — Debates in the House of Deputies — Attempt at Prorogation — Movement of Antonio Carlos — Deputation to the Emperor — Permanent Session — Acclamation of Dom Pedro's

Contents.

Majority — The Assembly's Proclamation — Rejoicings — New Ministry — Public Congratulations — Real State of Things — Ministerial Programme — Preparations for the Coronation — Change of Ministry — Opposition come into Power — Coronation postponed — Splendor of the Coronation — Financial Embarrassments — Diplomacy — Dissolution of the Camara — Pretext of Outbreaks — Council of State — Restoration of Order — Sessions of the Assembly — Imperial Marriages — Ministerial Change — Present Condition K 211

Chapter XIII

The Emperor of Brazil — His Remarkable Talents and Acquirements — New York Historical Society — The First Sight of D. Pedro II. — An Emperor on Board an American Steamship — Captain Foster and the " City of Pittsburg" — How D. Pedro II. was received by the " Sovereigns" — An Exhibition of American Arts and Manufactures — Difficulties overcome — Visit of the Emperor — His Knowledge of American Authors — Success among the People — Visit to the Palace of S. Christovao— Longfellow, Hawthorne, and Webster 231

Chapter XIV

Brazilian Literature — The Journals of Rio de Janeiro — Advertisements — The Freedom of the Press — Effort to put down Bible-Distribution — Its Failure — National Library — Museum — Imperial Academies of Fine Arts — Societies — Brazilian Historical and Geographical Institute — Administration of Brazilian Law — Curious Trial 251

Chapter XV

The Climate of Brazil — Its Superiority to other Tropical Countries — Cool Resorts — Trip to St. Alexio — Brazilian Jupiter Pluvius — The Mulatto Improvisor — Sydney Smith's " Immortal" Surpassed — A Lady's Impressions of Travel — An American Factory — A Yankee House — The Ride up the Organ Mountains — Forests, Flowers, and Scenery — Speculation in Town-Lots — Boa Vista — Height of the Serra dos Orgoes — Constancia — The "Happy Valley" — The Two Swiss Bachelors — Youth renewed — Prosaic Conclusion — Todd's " Student's Manual" — The Tapir — The Toucan — The Fire-Flies — Expenses of Travelling — Nova Fribourgo — Canta Gallo — -Petropolis 268

Chapter XVI

Preparations for the Voyage to the Southern Provinces — The Passengers — Ubatuba — Eagerness to obtain Bibles — The Routine on Board — Aboriginal Names — San Sebastian and Midshipman Wilberforce — Santos — Brazilians at Dinner — Incorrect Judgment of Foreigners — S. Vincente — Order of Exercises — My Cigar — ParanaguS — H.B.M. "Cormorant" and the Slavers — Mutability of Maps — Russian Vessels in Limbo — The Prima Donna — An English Engineer — Arrive at San Francisco do Sul 303

Chapter XVII

The Province of Parand — Message of its First President — Mat6, or Paraguay Tea — Its Culture and Preparation — Grows in North Carolina — San Francisco do Sul — Expectations not fulfilled — Canoe-Voyage — My Companions not wholly carnivorous — A Travelled Trunk — The Tolling-Bell Bird — Arrival at Joinville — A New Settlement 320

Contents.

Chapter XVIII. Page

Colonia Donna Francisca — The School-Teacher — The Clergyman — A Turk — Bible- Distribution — Suspected — A B C — The Fallen Forest— The House of the Director — A Runaway — The Village Cemetery — Moral Wants — Orchidaceous Plants — Charlatanism — San Francisco Jail — The Burial of the Innocent, and the money-making Padre — The Province of Sta. Catharina — Desterro — Beautiful Scenery — Shells and Butterflies — Coal-Mines — Province of Rio Grande do Sul — Herds and Herdsmen — The Lasso — Indians — Former Provincial Revolts — Present Tranquillity assured by the Overthrow of Rosas 334

Chapter XIX

Journey to San Paulo — Night-Travelling — Serra do Cubatao — The Heaven of the Moon — Frade Vasconcellos — -Ant-Hills — Tropeiros — Curious Items of Trade — Ypiranga — City of San Paulo — Law-Students and Convents — Mr. Mawe's Experience contrasted — Description of the City — Respect for S. Paulo — The Visionary Hotel-Keeper 354

Chapter XX

History of San Paulo — Terrestrial Paradise — Reverses of the Jesuits — Enslavement of the Indians — Historical Data — The Academy of Laws — Course of Study — Distinguished Men — The Andradas — Jose Bonifacio — Antonio Carlos — Alvares Machado — Vergueiro — Bishop Moura — A Visit to Feijo — Proposition to abolish Celibacy — An Interesting Book — The Death of Antonio Carlos de Andrada — High Eulogium — Missionary Efforts in San Paulo — Early and Present Condition of the Province — Hospitalities of a Padre — Encouragements — The People — Proposition to the Provincial Assembly — Response — Result — Addenda — Present Encouragements 366

Chapter XXI

Agreeable Acquaintance — Old Congo's Spurs — Lodging and Sleeping — Company- Campinas — Illuminations — A Night among the Lowly — Arrival at Limeira — A Pennsylvanian — A Night with a Boa Constrictor — Eventful and Romantic Life of a Naturalist — The Bird-Colony destined to the Philadelphia Academy of Natural Sciences — Ybecaba — Sketch of the Vergueiros — Plan of Colonization — Bridge of Novel Construction — Future Prospects 396

Chapter XXII

A New Disease — The Culture of Chinese Tea in Brazil — Modus Operandi — The Deceived Custom-House Officials — Probable Extension of Tea-Culture in South America — Homeward Bound — My Companion — Senhor Jose and a Little Difficulty with him — California and the Musical Innkeeper — Early Start and the Star- Spangled Banner — The Senhores Brotero of S. Paulo — Fourth of July inaugurated in an English Family — " Yankee Doodle" on the Plains of Ypiranga — Lame and Impotent Conclusion — Astronomy under Difficulties — Deliverance — Return to Rio de Janeiro 416

Contents.

Chapter XXIII. Page

The Brazilian North— Extent of the Empire— The Falls of Itamarity— Gigantic Fig- Tree— The Keel-Bill — A Plantation in Minas-Geraes— Peter Parley in Brazil- Sweet Lemons —Baronial Style — The Padre — Vesper-Hours — The Plantation- Orchestra— The White Ants obedient to the Church— The Great Ant-Eater— The Paca — The Musical Cart — The Mines and other Besources of Minas-Geraes — Coffee : its History and Culture — The Province of Goyaz— Stingless Bees and Sour Honey — Mato Grosso — Long Biver-Boute to the Atlantic — A New Thoroughfare — Lieutenant Thomas J. Page — The Survey of the La Plata and its Affluents — First American Steamer at Corumba — Steamboat-Navigation on the Paraguay — Officers of the American Navy — Dr. Kane and Lieutenant Strain — Diamond and Gold Mines the Hinderers of Progress — The Difference in the Besults from Diamonds and Coffee 432

Chapter XXIV

Cape Frio — Wreck of the Frigate Thetis — Campos — Espirito Santo — Aborigines — Origin of Indian Civilization — The Palm-Tree and its Uses — The Tupi-Guarani — The Lingoa Geral — Ferocity of the Aymores — The City of Bahia — Porters — Cadeiras — History of Bahia— Caramuru — Attack on the Hollanders — Measures taken by Spain — The City retaken — The Dutch in Brazil — Slave-Trade — Sociability of Bahia — Mr. Gilmer, American Consul — The Humming-Bird — Whale-Fishery — American Cemetery — Henry Martyn — Visit to Montserrat — View of the City — The Emperor's Birthday — Medical School — Public Library — Image-Factory — The Wonderful Image of St. Anthony — No Miracle — St. Anthony a Colonel — Visit to Valenca — Daring Navigation — In Puris Naturalibus — The Factory and Colonel Carson— American Machinery — -Skilful Negroes — Beturn Home— Commerce with the United States 464

Chapter XXV

Departure from Bahia — The Vampire-Bat — His Manner of Attack — The Bitten Negro — Annoyances magnified — Anacondas — One that swallowed a Horse — The Marmoset — Province of Alagoaz — The Bepublic of Palmares — Pernambuco — The ' Amenities of Quarantine-Life — Improvements at the Becife — Peculiarities of Pernambucan Houses — Beautiful Panorama — Various Districts of the City — A Bible- Christian — Extraordinary Fanaticism of the Sebastianists — Commerce of Pernambuco — The Population of the Interior — The Sertanejo and Market-Scene — The Sugar and Cotton Mart — The Jangada — Parahiba do Norte — Natal — Ceara — The Paviola — Temperature and Periodical Bains — The City of Maranham — Judge Petit's Description — The Montaria — Departure 503

Chapter XXVI

Magnificence of Nature in the Brazilian North — The City of Para" — The Entrance of the Amazon — The first Protestant Sermon on these Waters — Parallel to the Black- Hole of Calcutta — Effects of Steam-Navigation — Improvements in Para — The Canoa — Bathing and Market Scenes — Produce of Para" — India-Bubber — Par& Shoes — The Amazon Biver — Mr. Wallace's Explorations — The Vaca Marina — Cetacea of the Amazon — Turtle-Egg Butter — Indian Archery — Brazilian Birds and Insects — Visit to Bice-Mills near Para' — Journey through the Forest — The Paraense Bishop's Suspicions of Dr. Kidder— State of Beligion at Par£ 539