Personal narrative of a journey from India to England, by Bussorah, Bagdad, the ruins of Babylon, Curdistan, the Court of Persia, the western shore of the Caspian Sea, Astrakhan, Nishney Novogorod, Moscow and St. Petersburgh, in the year 1824. Second edition

Front matter

TromaTi er^ft/J Pi'u/jjlji^ nn i i . -, ■ STATE V3E @W ffi>WmiSWMIG) AAr.1" WsCeZhun Li,,,*..,, lh. . j JS26. PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO ENGLAND, BY BUSSORAH, BAGDAD, THE RUINS OF BABYLON, CURDISTAN, THE COURT OF PERSIA, THE WESTERN SHORE OF THE CASPIAN SEA, ASTRAKHAN, NISHNEY NOVOGOROD, MOSCOW, AND ST. PETERSBURGH, IN THE YEAR 1824. BY CAPTAIN, THE HON. GEORGE KEPPEL. SECOND EDITION. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: HENRY COLBURN, NEW BURLINGTON-STREET. 1827. LONDON: PKINTED BY S. AND a. BENTLEY, DOBSET-STBEET. TO THE EARL OF ALBEMARLE. In sending forth this, my first Work, to the Public, I am naturally anxious to obtain for it a protector. To whom, then, can I better apply than to you, my dear Father, for whose entertainment I was first induced to keep a Diary of my Travels ?

Your affectionate Son, GEORGE KEPPEL. Dublin Castle. ILLUSTRATIONS. VOL. I. No. 1 . Native of Durbund . to face the Title. 2. Map of the Author's Route . . Page 1 3. Ruins of a Pillar on the Eastern Bank of the Tigris 121 4. Fragment of a Statue . . . .126 5. Tauk Kisra, a ruined Arch on the Site of Ctesiphon 129 6. Babylonian Cylinders .... 185 7- Tree on the Site of the Hanging Gardens . 207 8. Statue of a Lion found in the Ruins of Babylon 208 9. Specimen of the Ruins at Kisra Shereen . 309 VOL. II. 1, A Lesguy Tartar . to face the Title. 2. Capital of a Pillar at Be-sitoon . Page 78 3. Greek Inscription at Be-sitoon . . .79 CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

Chapter I

My fellow-travellers — Futteh Ali Khan — Departure from Bombay — Persian Syyud — His compliment to the English, and opinion of our devotion — Luminous surface of the Sea — Dinner with the Prince — Persian Politeness — Arrival at Muscat — Barren appearance of the Cove — Fortifications — Shipping — Ignorance of the Imaum and of his Officers in Navigation — Anecdote — The Imaum and Futteh Ali Khan — Our introduction to the Imaum — His character — Wahhabbee Pirate — Town of Muscat — Bazaar — Inhabitants — Method of extracting Toll — Imaum's Stud — Slave Auction. Page 1 — 22.

Chapter II

Suburbs of Muscat — Drunken Persian — Fish-fed Horses — Sterile appearance of the country — Village of Poorshur — Giaffer's conduct — Set sail for Bussorah — . Cape Jask — The Quoins— Cape Musendom — Islands of CONTENTS. VIII the Tombs— Pulior— Cape Nabon— Cape Gerdistan—Bu shire — Karrack— Arab Pilot— Sick Native— Cape Baungk — Pilot's mode of navigating the Ship— Runs her ashore — His apology— Appearance of the Coast — Behaviour of an Arab Sheikh. Page 23-43.

Chapter III

The Sheikh's modest demeanour — His residence — Repast — Spirited reply of the Sheikh's Son— Captain Taylor — Land at Bussorah — New Governor — Ex-Governor — The New Governor's Public Entrance into Bussorah — First act of his Government— His Visits to the Political Agent — His Visit returned — Wearing Shoes in the Cham ber of an Asiatic — Horse-racing in the Desert — The Go vernor's attempt at Oppression — An Armenian's Betroth ment — Pas de deux between a Jew and a Turk. Page 44—64.

Chapter IV

Ancient Ruins — Tombs of Ali the Barmecide, and of Zobeir, an Arab Chief — Town of Zobeir — Sheikh of Dir hemmia — City of Bussorah — Filth of the Streets— Old and new Bazaars — Coffee-houses — Trade — Population — Productions — Preparations for departure — Guard of Arabs — Aboo Nasir — Entertainment on board the Alligator. Page 65—77-

Chapter V

We take leave of our Shipmates — And proceed on our Voyage — Our Boatmen and Guard — Abstinence from Wine — Koorna — The River Tigris — II Jezeerah, the re puted Site of Paradise — Appearance of the Country — Our CONTENTS. IX first Interview with the Desert Arabs — Arab Village — Conduct of our Guard — Goomru — Tribute — Extortion- Tomb of the Prophet Ezra— Abundance of Game— Kill a brace of Partridges in the Garden of Eden — Curious Scene — Behaviour and appearance of the Female Arabs of the Desert. Page 78—94.

Chapter VI

Aboo Nasir — Village Jester — Akushee — English Gen tlemen attacked by the Arabs — Munjummil — Thuyn II Swyah — Mohumud Abool Hassan — We are challenged from the shore by the Arabs— Our Boatmen's Answer — Manner in which the Arabs lie in ambush for Travellers — Cheshef — Illyauts — Black Tents illustrated by Scripture — Mr. Hamilton and I shoot at a Lioness — Curious flight of Birds — Barter — Gubur Jumdeer — Ali Shurgee — Ani mals like Bats — Filifileh and Sooroot, an ancient Ruin — Encampment of Arab Banditti — Aboo Nasir's Answer to their Inquiries — Mudduk-il-Hujauje — Koote — Horses pro curable from hence to Bagdad — Description of the Village — Jubul Afeez, a Ruin — Arab Greyhounds — A Dandy of the Desert — Mr. Hamilton proceeds by land to Bagdad — Boats laden with firewood for Bagdad — Ummuttumim, a large Canal — Grotesque description of Boat — Shifeleh — Extensive Ruins — Observations on the general appearance of Ruins in this Country — The Ruins of Mumliheh — Coins — Want of instruments for digging. Page 95 — 1 1 7.

Chapter VII

Tortuous course of the River — Extensive Ruins — Fire Temple — Devil's dance — Dawurree, a tribe of thieves and vol. i. . b CONTENTS. X buffoons-Ruins of Seleucia— Camel-riding— Illustration of the Prophecy of Isaiah— Ancient Statue— Tradition- Powder Mill— Ctesiphon— Description of the Tauk or Arch of Kisra— Suleiman Pauk— Historical notices of Se leucia and Ctesiphon— Arrival at Bagdad— Public En trance—Mr. Hamilton's Journey across the Desert—An ecdote of the Chief of the Artillery. Page 1 18— 144.

Chapter VIII

The Pasha's Garden— Armenian Church — Our Host's Policy — Monastery of Calendars — Tomb of Zobeide — Visit to the Catholic Bishop of Bagdad — Anecdote — Journey to Babylon — Our Establishment — Description of a Caravan serai—Our first Night's Lodging. Page 145 — 164.

Chapter IX

Bir-iunus — Caravans of Persian Pilgrims — Mode of Travelling — Women — Corpses — Coffins — Iskanderia — Earthenware Coffins — Mohowel — An old Man and his Wives — Distant appearance of the Ruins of Babylon — Reasons for supposing the Ruins to be those of Babylon — Causes of Deterioration — Mujillebe Mound — Illustration of the Prophecy of Isaiah — Hilleh — Population — Musjid Eshams — Babylonian Inscriptions — Bricks — Cylinders — Throwing the Jereed — Sham Fight — Tower of Babel — Ba bylonian Boats — Earthenware Tombs — Statue of a Lion — Hanging Gardens — Palace. Page 165 — 211.

Chapter X

Triumph of Travelling over Prejudice — Grotesque Dance — Fire Temple — Presentation to the Pasha of Bagdad CONTENTS. XI Feast of St. Gregory — Visit from the Officers of the Pa shalick — Instance of the Pasha's despotic Power — We return the Visit of the Officers — The Pasha's Garden — Musruf Effendy and his Screw-pump — First impressions on visiting Bagdad — Description ofthe Streets and Bazaars — Interior of a House — Dress of the Women — Liberty en joyed by Turkish Females. Page 212—243.

Chapter XI

Buildings in the time of Haroun Alraschid — A House — Mosque — Disregard of the Turks for Antiquities — Pre parations for departure — Advice to Travellers — Roguery of the British Agent — Mr. Wolff, a Missionary — Extortion of the Servants of Aga Saikeis — We leave Bagdad — Gold stick Bearer — Benee-Sad — Ruined state of the Town — Aboo Nasir throwing the Jereed— Bacoubah — Devastation of the Army of Mohumud Ali Meerza — Alarm of Robbers — Aboo Nasir's Request — The Silver-stick Bearer and Aboo Nasir take leave. Page 244—265.

Chapter XII

Ruins of Artemita — Historical Notice of Shehreban — Ruins of Apollonia — Crossing the Diala — Ancient Tradi tion — The Hamerine or Carduchian Mountains. Page 266—285.

Chapter XIII

Ruin at Baradan — Gaur, the City of Magicians — Khanaki — Our Janizary — Calor, a Tribe of Banditti — Annoyances of the Journey — The Shurgee or Siroc Wind — Ruins of Kisra Shereen — We are visited by Robbers — Dangerous Adventure. Page 286 — 313. CONTENTS.

Chapter XIV

March by Moonlight— Our Chief Muleteer— Pool Zo naub — Stupendous Scenery — Curious Custom of Illyaut Women — Ancient Sculpture — Ascent of the Zagri Pilæ — Magnificent Scenery — Pa-ee Takht — Suridage — Vexa tious Delay of the Muleteer — Town of Kurund — Visit from the Governor. Page 314 — 336. NARRATIVE, fye. fye.

Chapter I

My fellow-travellers — Futteh Ali Khan — Departure from Bombay — Persian Syyud — His Compliment to the English, and opinion of our Devotion — Luminous Surface of the Sea — Dinner with the Prince — Persian Politeness — Arrival at Muscat — Barren Appearance of the Cove — Fortifications — Shipping — Ignorance of the Imaum and of his Officers in Navigation — Anecdote — The Imaum and Futteh Ali Khan — Our introduction to the Imaum — His character — Wahhabbee Pirate — Town of Muscat— -Bazaar — Inhabitants — Method of extracting Toll — Imaum's stud — Slave Auction, In the month of January, 1824, Mr. Ker Baillie Hamilton, Mr. Lamb, Captain Hart, and myself, met from different parts of VOL. I. B FUTTEH ALI KHAN. India, at the Presidency of Bombay. We were all resolved upon an overland journey to England, but differed as to the precise route.

By making a few mutual concessions on this point, we agreed to travel together. * We were assisted in this arrangement by Captain Alexander, who kindly granted us a passage to Bussorah in his Majesty's ship Alligator, of which he had the command. January 26. — The night before we sail ed, the officers of the frigate, and our travelling party, were invited to dine with His Highness Futteh All Khan, who, as well as ourselves, embarked on board the Alligator the following morning. Futteh Ali Khan is an eunuch in the se raglio of his brother-in-law, Abbas Meerza, the Prince Royal of Persia, who married his sister." He is the son of the brave but un- * The Author begs to return his best acknowledgments to Mr. Lamb for the use of his notes, and to captain Hart so the drawings which accompany this Work.

FUTTEH ALI KHAN. 3 fortunate Loots Ali Khan, the last Persian king of the Zund dynasty, who was mur dered by Aga Mohummud, in 1794. Loots Ali has been aptly compared to Richard Cceur-de-Lion of England, and Charles XII. of Sweden, and he is still the subject of song and poetry in Persia. The usurper destroyed nearly all the members of the deposed family ; the remainder, he dis persed over Mazanderaun. At the period of his father's overthrow, our royal shipmate was seven years old ; his life was spared pro bably on account of his tender age ; but the condition to which he was reduced by the barbarous policy of the conqueror, made the boon of little value. The year previous to our meeting at Bom bay, I had seen His Highness at Calcutta, where, in my capacity of aide-de-camp to the Marquis of Hastings, the then Governor General of India, I had frequent opportuni ties of conversing with him.

He had at that B DEPARTURE FROM BOMBAY. time just arrived from the court of the Prince Royal of Persia on a visit to India ; and our Government, with its usual liberality, had allowed him a hundred rupees a-day, and a splendid establishment — attractions which proved so great to His Highness, that tehre is no knowing to what period he might have prolonged his stay, had not ill health acce lerated his departure. His Highness is tall and emaciated ; his eyes are large and black, and his complexion is sallow. Though not more than thirty eight years old, he appears double that age, and his voice and features so resemble those of a female, that when wrapped up in shawls, he might be easily mistaken for an old woman. January 27- — We went on board the Alligator at ten this morning. Shortly after us, Futteh Ali Khan embarked, under a salute from the batteries.

As His Highness was in a delicate state of health, he was hoisted, or A PERSIAN SYYUD. in sea phrase, " whipped on board." The sailors, whose notions of princely appearance were probably formed by the pictures of our own royal family, seemed much surprised at the feminine look of the unfortunate Per sian. Many a joke, incapable of repetition, did I hear made on this wreck of a fallen dynasty. We got under weigh the moment the Prince was embarked. The weather was fine, and the wind favourable. Those of our friends who had come to take leave, were soon obliged to retreat to their boats, as we were rapidly getting out to sea. Before sun-set the town of Bombay had disappeared from view, and the high ghauts, (mountains) which mark this coast, were all we could discern of Indian land. The principal person of the Prince's esta blishment, was a Persian Syyud, a man of some information, and not deficient in humour.

As I could speak Persian with tole- HIS COMPLIMENT TO THE ENGLISH. rable fluency, I used frequently to amuse myself by asking his opinion respecting the improvement of our nation in different branches of science. Amongst other sub jects, I tried to explain to him the properties of a steam-boat lately established in Cal cutta, which, from its power of stemming wind, tide, and current, had been called by the Indians " Sheitaun ko noo,'' the Devil's Boat. Wishing to pay a compliment to our na tion, the Syyud replied, " AVhen arts were in their infancy, it was natural to give the Devil credit for any new invention ; but now, so advanced are the English in every kind of improvement, that they are more than match for the Devil himself.'' Mahometans are at all times ready to acknowledge our superiority in every thing connected with manufactures and arts.

This concession, indeed, could not well be withheld, as most articles of a finer quality are imported HIS OPINION OF OUR DEVOTION. from Europe into the East, and the greater portion of them from England. Nevertheless it is surprising that a people so bigoted to their own superiority in most respects, have allowed us a pre-eminence even in this. They reconcile it, however, to their vanity, by observing that we, as infidels, have our enjoyments in this life, while theirs, as true believers, will be in a world to come. In short, that we are as superior to them, as " the children of this world are, in their generation, wiser than the children of light." January 29. — This morning, (Sunday,) divine service was performed. As soon as it was over, I went up to the Syyud, who had been watching our motions, and, to ob serve his reply, asked him why he had not said his prayers this morning ?

His answer was very laconic, Huftee mun, Rooze Shuma. " Daily I, weekly you." The Mahometans believe, not with the Syyud, that we pray once a week, but that LUMINOUS SURFACE OF THE SEA. 8 we never pray at all ; and, to say the truth, the general conduct of our countrymen in the East, rather favours the supposition. February 1. — The sea was covered this morning with a vast quantity of luminous blubber, the molusca of the medusa species. It is sometimes of a scarlet colour ; that which we saw was blue, and resembled the flower of the convolvulus. At night it gave the sea the appearance of waves of liquid fire. This is a constant indication of an approach to the Persian shore. Captain Alexander being confined to his bed by a severe fall from a horse while at Bombay, deputed me to do the honours of the table.

The Prince would sometimes favour us with his company, though, except for the honour, we could willingly have dis pensed with his visits. On some of these occasions, he would describe, with true Per sian minuteness, those particulars of health which we generally reserve for our physi- PERSIAN POLITENESS. 9 cian. At other times he would sop his long skeleton fingers in all the dishes most suitable to his palate, thrust them into his mouth, and then, while wet with saliva, into the plate of some wondering midshipman beside him. His Highness had one more habit which, though contrary to our opinions of good breeding, is reckoned in Persia the greatest proof of politeness, as it intimates a compliment to the host's good cheer. I mean eructation. In this sort of ventri loquism, His Highness was so well-bred, as to give us daily specimens of his powers to the disgust of our naval friends, who, not aware such a custom was fashionable in Persia, thought it " more honoured in the breach, than in the observance."

February 2. — At two, p. m., we saw the high land near Muscat, distinguished by a conspicuous break in the mountains called the Devil's Gap. At sun-set, the land was about thirty miles distant. We continued ARRIVAL AT MUSCAT. under easy sail, standing off and on during the night. February 3d. — At daybreak we were surprised to find ourselves to the leeward of our port, having been carried a long way to the north-west by a current. February 4. — We anchored in the Cove of Muscat, the seat of government of a so vereign Arab prince, whose title is that of Imaum. The Cove is formed by a deep circular indentation in the coast, and the land, or rather rock, for there is not the least appearance of soil, rises nearly perpendicular in crude rugged masses, presenting an aspect of the greatest sterility imaginable.

The roadstead and town towards the sea, are defended by a great parade of fortifica tions, but they appear to be in so ricketty a state, that the firing of their own guns would demolish them. Four large vessels belonging to the Imaum were at anchor in the harbour ; one of these was the Liverpool frigate, lately of his Majesty's service, which SHIPPING. 11 the Imaun purchased two years ago. His Highness is very fond of ships, but knows very little about them. From the manner in which his fleet is managed, it may be considered rather as a plaything, than as applicable to any serviceable purpose. His officers know about as much of nautical affairs, as the Imaum himself. A short time ago, one of the ships being in danger, it was recommended to the officer commanding, that a part of the standing rigging should be cut away.

This he refused to do, on the plea that " it would spoil the look of the ship !" On anchoring in the Cove, we gave His Highness a salute of eleven guns, which was immediately answered from the shore. Short ly after, Mr. Hunter, a lieutenant in the navy, and Gulaub, a native of India, agent to our Government, came on board to see if they could be of any service. We asked the Prince if he intended to go FUTTEH ALI AND THE IMAUM. ashore, but he declined because he was not on good terms with the Imaum. The cause of difference was this : Futteh Ali Khan touched at Muscat on his way to India. The Imaum, agreeably to Oriental custom, supplied his table Avith whatever was requisite. Futteh Ali, who is somewhat avaricious, made an application for money equivalent to the food with which he had been supplied.

To this, the Imaum replied by sending him a dollar a-day ! Hence the coolness between their Persian and Arab Highnesses ! Our party accompanied the first lieutenant ashore. The beach, up to high-water mark, was every where covered with oyster shells. The sea literally swarmed wdth fish, and the air was almost darkened by the numerous water-fowls in pursuit of their finny prey. We landed at the northern extremity of the town, close to the market-place, through which we passed in our way to the Imaum's

Introduction

TO THE IMAUM. 13 palace. As His Highness was at prayers when we arrived, we waited at the house of Mr. Hunter till three o'clock, when we received a message by Gulaub that the Imaum was ready to receive us. We were admitted through a narrow wicket into a square court. In the middle was a fountain ; round it were a few sickly shrubs. Arabs, variously armed, were col lected into several groups, some sitting in a circle, others sleeping. In a corner of this court was a ladder like that used in a gra nary. We ascended to the top, and found there the Imaum, who shook hands with us separately, as we entered a long, narrow, un adorned apartment, where chairs were placed for himself and guests. Though His Highness understands Persian, and Hindoostany, and, as it is said, English, he spoke Arabic, and Gulaub officiated as interpreter. The con versation, as may be supposed, was not of much interest. The Imaum made many

INTRODUCTION.

TO THE IMAUM. inquiries about the ship, and her rate of sailing, and said (in allusion to Futteh Ali Khan), that if captain Alexander had been alone, he would have gone to visit him. He repeated several times that the English and himself were as one, and that his house, his ships, and all that he possessed, were ours. A boy about ten years of age, who always accompanies the Imaum, was the only person present during the interview, and Mr. Hunter informed us, that it was not his custom to allow his own people to be by, in his conversation with Europeans. Some sherbet, well flavoured with rose-water, was handed round by the eunuch in attendance. It may be worthy of remark, that pipes were not brought in, the Imaum, and other natives of Muscat, belonging to a sect called Bee-asis, whose strict tenets forbid the use of tobacco.

In half an hour we took our leave, as much struck with the Imaum's handsome person, HIS CHARACTER. 15 as we were pleased at his polite and unaffected address. The patriarchal simplicity of the Arab character is strongly marked in every thing connected with this court. In the daily divan held by the Imaum, every one seats himself without any reference to priority. Even beggars can demand this audience, and may be sure of having a patient hearing given to their complaints. The Imaum has on all occasions shown himself a sincere ally of the English. It is owing, indeed, to our having extirpated the Wahhabbee pirates, that he is now in pos session of his sovereignty. When about six teen years old, he succeeded his uncle, the late Imaum, in the following manner. Being discontented with his conduct, he one day proposed a ride to him.

They were scarcely outside the walls of the town, when the nephew, lurking a little behind, drew his WAHHABEE PIRATE. scimitar, killed his uncle, and, returning to Muscat, seated himself without opposition on the vacant throne. He is, notwithstanding, much beloved by his subjects, who speak in high terms of his justice and moderation. As to the mere act of murdering his relative, it is held in the light of a " family differ ence,'' and is no bar to his standing well in public estimation, as a prince of mild and peaceable demeanour. In quitting the Imaum I must not forget to mention an anecdote of the man who admitted us into the court, his bold countenance having particularly attracted our at tention. He was for many years one of the most formidable of the famous Wahhabbee pirates, whose successful depredations struck terror throughout these seas, and threatened the total extinction of the Imaum's power.

A reverse of fortune led him to offer his ser vices to the Imaum : they were immediately accepted, and the pirate was not ungrateful. TOWN OF MUSCAT. In the action of Benee-boo-Ali, His Highness was deserted by his troops, was wounded in the wrist, and would have been taken prisoner, but for the exertions of his former foe, who alone remained faithful to him. Ever since that time, he has held a confidential situation about his person. From the palace we went to take a view of the town. The bazaar, or market, is covered in at the top to protect the wares, which are exposed for sale on open platforms in front of the shops. A large colony of Indians, principally from the banks of the Indus, carry on the wholesale and retail trade. Amongst other articles exposed for sale, we observed coarse cloths, different kinds of grain, sweetmeats, not very tempting in appearance, and fried locusts.

Besides these, were vast quantities of salt and sulphur, which are all the remains of the boasted " wealth of Ormuz." „ The houses are flat roofed, and built of c VOL. I. THE INHABITANTS. unhewn stone. The streets are extremely filthy, and so narrow, that by extending the arms, I could touch the walls on both sides. The town is of small extent, comprising a circumference of two miles, and containing a population of two thousand souls. The natives are very squalid in appear ance, there are scarcely any who have not sore eyes, and one-tenth of the population is blind of an eye. The inflammation is pro bably produced by the light particles of sand blown from the seashore, by the powerful reflection of the sun's rays from the walls, and by poverty of diet, which consists al most entirely of fish.

The women, instead of the thick veil I have seen in other Mahometan countries, wear a kind of black domino, with large tri angular holes for the eyes. They are, generally speaking, the offspring of Arab men and Abyssinian negresses. • They are not hand- THEIR RELIGION. 19 some, as they partake too much of the flat noses and thick lips of their mothers. I have said that the natives of Muscat are of a sect called Bee-asis. Before I notice them, it may be as well to mention, that the two principal sects of Mahometans are Sunnis and Shiahs. The Turks are of the former, and the Persians of the latter persuasion. The Sunnis recognize Aboobe ker, Omar, and Ottoman, the three first suc cessors of Mahomet, as lawful Caliphs. The Shiahs consider them as usurpers of the ca liphate; which they affirm belonged of right to Ali.

The Sunnis receive the Sunna, or book of oral traditions of Mahomet, as ca nonical authority. The Shiahs reject it as un worthy of credit. The Bee-asis differ, in some respect, from Sunnis and Shiahs: both of which sects have a kind of veneration for the descendants of Mahomet. The Bee-asis, so far from grant- C CURIOUS MODE OF EXTRACTING TOLL. ing them a pre-eminence, maintain that all who are Mahometans by birth, are eligible for any employment in church or state. For this reason, the Sovereign Prince of Muscat is called Imaum ; which title, amongst other Mahometans, is given only to Princes lineally descended from their prophet. All Mahometans are forbidden the use of strong drinks. The Bee-asis are more ri gid than the other sects, both in precept and practice. They not only abstain from all fer mented liquors, but also from tobacco, and from every description of pomp or magni ficence in their dress, their houses, or their mosques.

They worship no saints ; and have neither convents nor dervishes. They have a great regard for justice ; and an universal toleration for other religions. At the Custom-House we observed a curious mode of extracting toll. A negro slave, standing on a mat at the gate, had in his hand a long sharp grooved instrument, on imaum's stud. 21 the principle of a cooper's bung-tap. With this, he perforated every bag of rice, that was carried past him, and extracted a small por tion from each. The Imaum possesses a tolerably good stud of horses. We observed that the manes and tails of the colts were kept close clipped. 1 know not whether this custom is common throughout Arabia ; but here, as well as at Bussorah and Bagdad, where this mode of clipping is practised, the horses are all remarkable for their flowing manes and long tails.

In visiting the slave auction, I felt almost angry with myself, for not experiencing more disgust at witnessing so disgraceful and unnatural a traffic. The market was held in an open space near the landing-place. Some twenty or thirty fat little negresses, from twelve to fourteen years of age, having their woolly locks neatly plaited, and their bodies well SLAVE AUCTION. oiled, to give them a sleek appearance, were ranged in two rows, on some logs of timber. Too young to trouble themselves with their degraded state, they sat giggling and chattering with the utmost nonchalance. Our uniforms appeared to afford them much merriment. One dingy little coquette, by significantly pointing to us, set the rest in a roar of laughter. In the meantime the slavemerchant was leading by the hand one of the party, and calling out her price. As for herself, she seemed more intent to catch the joke of her companion, than to ascertain any thing respecting her future destiny. SUBURBS. 23

Chapter II

Suburbs of Muscat — Drunken Persian — Fish-fed Horses — Sterile appearance of the country — Village of Poorshur — Giaffer's conduct — Set sail for Bussorah — Cape Jask — The Quoins — Cape Musendom — Islands of the Tombs — Pulior — Cape Nabon — Cape Verdistan — Bushire — Karrack — Arab Pilot — Sick Native — Cape Baungk — Pilot's mode of navigating the ship — Runs her ashore — His apology — Appearance of the Coast — Behaviour of an Arab Sheikh- February 5. — The suburbs of Muscat appear more populous than the town. The inhabitants are principally Abyssinian slaves. There is also a large encampment of No made Arabs, who live in mat tents, which they transport from place to place. We visited many of these encampments in the NOMADE ARABS. course of the day, and found the inhabitants singing and dancing.