Personal Narrative of a Journey from India to England, by Bussorah ... Astrakhan ... and St. Petersburgh in the year 1824

Front matter

Conserved under the Adopt a Book Appeal In Memory Of Bill & Celia Winkworth 'Here with a loaf of bread beneath the bough, A flask of wine, a book of verse - and thou beside we singing in the wilderness - and wilderness is paradise enow PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO ENGLAND, BY BUSSORAH, BAGDAD, THE RUINS OF BABYLON, CURDISTAN, THE COURT OF PERSIA, THE WESTERN SHORE OF THE CASPIAN SEA, ASTRAKHAN, NISHNEY NOVOGOROD, MOSCOW, AND ST. TETERSBURGH : IN THE YEAR 1824. BY CAPTAIN THE HON. GEORGE KEPPEL. LONDON: HENRY COLBURN, NEW BURLINGTON-STREET. 1827. LONDON S. AND R. BENTI.EY, PRINTERS, DORSET STREET. TO THE EARL OF ALBEMARLE. In sending forth this, my first AArork, to the Public, I am naturady anxious to obtain for it a protector. To whom, then, can I better apply than to you, my dear Father, for Avhose entertainment I was first induced to keep a Diary of my Travels?

Your affectionate Son, GEORGE KEPPEL. Dublin Castle. ILLUSTRATIONS. No. 1. Native of Durbund ..... to face the Title. 2. Map of the Author's Route .... I*age 1 3. Ruins of a Pillar on the Eastern Bank of the Tigris . . 64 4. Fragment of a Statue .67 5. Tauk Kisra, a ruined Arch on the Site of Ctesiphon . . 69 6, Babylonian Cylinders .......*. 98 7. Tree on the Site of the Hanging Gardens . . . . 110 8. Statue of a Lion found in the Ruins of Babylon . . . Ill 9- Specimen of the Ruins at Kisra Shereen .... 164 10. Capital of a Pillar at Be-sitoon 220 11. Greek Inscription at Be-sitoon ....... 221 12. A Lesguy Tartar j02 CONTENTS.

Chapter I

My fellow-travellers — Futteh Ali Khan — Departure from Bombay — Persian Syyud — His compliment to the English, and opinion of our devotion — Luminous surface of the Sea — Dinner with the Prince — Persian Politeness — Arrival at Muscat — Barren appearance of the Cove — Fortifications — Shipping — Ignorance of the Imaum and of his Officers in Navigation — Anecdote — The Imaum and Futteh Ali Khan — Our introduction to the Imaum — His character — Wahhabbee Pirate — Town of Muscat — Bazaar — Inhabitants — Method of extracting Toll — Imaum's Stud — Slave Auction. Page 1 — 12.

Chapter II

Suburbs of Muscat — Drunken Persian — Fish-fed Horses — Sterile appearance of the country — Village of Poorshur — Giaffer's conduct — Set sail for Bussorah — Cape Jask — The Quoins — Cape Musendom — Islands of the Tombs — Pulior — Cape Nabon — Cape Ger distan — Bushire — Karrack — Arab Pilot — Sick Native — Cape Baungk — Pilot's mode of na vigating the Ship — Runs her ashore— His apology — Appearance of the Coast — Behaviour of an Arab Sheikh. Page 13—23.

Chapter III

The Sheikh's modest demeanour — His residence — Repast — Spirited reply of the Sheikh's Son — Captain Taylor — Land at Bussorah — New Governor — Ex-Governor — The New Governor's Public Entrance into Bussorah — First act of his Government — His Visits to the Political Agent — His Visit returned — Wearing Shoes in the Chamber of an Asiatic — Horse-racing in the Desert — The Governor's attempt at Oppression— An Armenian's Betrothment — Pas de deux between a Jew and a Turk. Page 24 — 3-t CONTENTS. VIII

Chapter IV

Ancient Ruins — Tombs of Ali the Barmecide, and of Zobeir, an Arab Chief — Town of Zobeir— Sheikh of Dirhemmia— City of Bussorah— Filth of the Streets -Old and new Bazaars — Coffee-houses — Trade — Population — Productions — Preparations for departure — Guard of Arabs — Aboo Nasir — Entertainment on board the Alligator. Page 35 — 41 .

Chapter V

We take leave of our Shipmates — And proceed on our Voyage — Our Boatmen and Guard— Abstinence from Wine— Koorna — The River Tigris — II Jezeerah, the reputed Site of Paradise — Appearance ofthe Country — Our first Interview with the Desert Arabs — Arab Village — Conduct of our Guard — Goomru — Tribute— Extortion— Tomb of the Prophet Ezra — Abundance of Game — Kill a brace of Partridges in the Garden of Eden — Curious Scene — Behaviour and appearance of the Female Arabs of the Desert. Page 42 — 50.

Chapter VI

Aboo Nasir— Village Jester— Akushee— English Gentlemen attacked by the Arabs— Munjummil— Thuyn II Swyah— Mohumud Abool Hassan— We are challenged from the shore by the Arabs— Our Boatmen's Answer— Manner in which the Arabs lie in ambush for Travellers— Cheshef— Illyauts— Black Tents illustrated by Scripture— Mr. Hamilton and I shoot at a Lioness— Curious flight of Birds— Barter— Gubur Jumdeer— Ali Shurgee— Animals like Bats— Filifileh and Sooroot, an ancient Ruin— Encampment of Arab Banditti — Aboo Nasir's Answer to their Inquiries— Mudduk-il-Hujauje— Koote — Horses procurable from hence to Bagdad— Description of the Village— Jubul Afeez, a Ruin — Arab Greyhounds — A Dandy of the Desert— Mr. Hamilton proceeds by land to Bagdad— Boats laden with firewood for Bagdad — Ummuttumim, a large Canal — Grotesque description of Boat — Shi feleh — Extensive Ruins — Observations on the general appearance of Ruins in this Country — The Ruins of Mumliheh — Coins — Want of instruments for digging. Page 51 — 62.

Chapter VII

Tortuous course of the River— Extensive Ruins— Fire Temple— Devil's dance—Dawur ree, a tribe of thieves and buffoons— Ruins of Seleucia — Camel-riding — Illustration of the Prophecy of Isaiah— Ancient Statue— Tradition — Powder Mill — Ctesiphon — Descrip tion of the Tauk or Arch of Kisra — Suleiman Pauk — Historical notices of Seleucia and Ctesiphon— Arrival at Bagdad — Public Entrance— Mr. Hamilton's Journey across the Desert— Anecdote of the Chief of the Artillery. Page 63 — 76. CONTENTS. IX

Chapter VIII

The Pasha's Garden— Armenian Church — Our Host's Policy — Monastery of Calendars — Tomb of Zobeide — Visit to the Catholic Bishop of Bagdad — Anecdote — Journey to Babylon — Our Establishment — Description ofa Caravanserai — Our first Night's Lodging. Page 77-87-

Chapter IX

Bir-iunus — Caravans of Persian Pilgrims — Mode of Travelling — Women — Corpses — Coffins — Iskanderia — Earthenware Coffins — Mohowel — An old Man and his Wives — Distant appearance of the Ruins of Brbylon — Reasons for supposing the Ruins to be those of Babylon — Causes of Deterioration — Mujillebe Mound — Illustration of the Prophecy of Isaiah — Hilleh — Population — Musjid Eshams — Babylonian Inscriptions — Bricks — Cylinders — Throwing the Jereed — Sham Fight — Tower of Babel — Babylonian Boats — Earthenware Tombs — Statue of a Lion— Hanging Gardens — Palace. Page 88 — 112.

Chapter X

Triumph of Travelling over Prejudice — Grotesque Dance —Fire Temple — Presentation to the Pasha of Bagdad— Feast of St. Gregory — Visit from the Officers of the Pashalick — Instance of the Pasha's despotic Power — We return the Visit of the Officers — The Pasha's Garden — Musruf Effendy and his Screw-pump — First impressions on visiting Bagdad — Description of the Streets and Bazaars — Interior of a House — Dress of the Women — Liberty enjoyed by Turkish Females. Page 113 — 129.

Chapter XI

Buildings in the time of Haroun Alraschid — A House — Mosque — Disregard of the Turks for Antiquities — Preparations for departure — Advice to Travellers — Roguery of the British Agent — Mr. Wolff, a Missionary — Extortion of the Servants of Aga Saikeis — We leave Bagdad — Gold-stick Bearer — Benee-Sad — Ruined state of the Town — Aboo Nasir throwing the Jereed— Bacoubah — Devastation of the Army of Mohumud Ali Meerza — Alarm of Robbers — Aboo Nasir's Request — The Silver-stick Bearer and Aboo Nasir take leave. Page 130— 141.

Chapter XII

Ruins of Artemita — Historical Notice of Shehreban — Ruins of Apollonia — Crossing the pjiala Ancient Tradition — The Hamerine or Carduchian Mountains. Page 142 — 151.

Chapter XIII

Ruin at Baradan — Gaur, the City of Magicians — Khanaki — Our Janizary — Calor, a Tribe of Banditti — Annoyances of the Journey — The Shurgee or Siroc Wind — Ruins of Kisra Shereen — We are visited by Robbers — Dangerous Adventure. Page 152 — 166. b CONTENTS. X

Chapter XIV

March by Moonlight — Our Chief Muleteer — Pool Zohaub — Stupendous Scenery — Curious Custom of Ulyaut Women — Ancient Sculpture — Ascent of the Zagri Pilæ — Magni ficent Scenery — Pa-ee Takht — Suridage — Vexatious Delay of the Muleteer — Town of Kurund — Visit from the Governor. Page 167 — 178.

Chapter XV

An Ulyaut Breakfast — Beautiful Female — One of the King's Wives — Town of Ha rounabad — Beauty of the Women — Mahidesht — Escorted into Kermanshah — Description of the Town — An Order of Knighthood — Character of Mohumud Ali Meerza, the late Prince of Kermanshah — Anecdote of His Highness and Gaspar Khan — Visit from the Prince of Kermanshah. Page 179 — 193.

Chapter XVI

Three Arab Visitors — A Chieftain — An Astrologer — A Moolah — Ancient Sculptures at Tauk Bostaun — Chosroes, Shereen, and Furhaud — Persian Dance — Equestrian Evolu tions — Turcoman breed of Horses — Persian mode of clearing the way for a great Man — Funeral P.oce>sion of Mohumud Ali Meerza — The Moolahi Bashee — Suleiman Khan Kuruzungeer, and the Sect of Ulahi. Page 194 — 211.

Chapter XVII

Misunderstanding between Messrs. Court and De Veaux — Conduct of Senor Oms — Reconciliation between our Hosts — Moolah Ali's opinion of Duelling — Second interview with the Prince — Departure from Kermanshah — Unsuccessful Expedition into the Moun tains — Pic-nic Breakfast — We take leave of Messrs. Court and De Veaux — Be-sitoon — Bas reliefs — Sahanah — Concobar — Visit the Governor — Temple of Diana. Page 212—227.

Chapter XVIII

Sadawar — Our Host and his two Wives — Hamadan — A Chupper, or Courier — Hajee Abbas, thi Prince's Mehmaundaur — Dispensation from the Fast— Ancient Inscription — Elwund — Morning Visitors — The Prince's Physician — His Eulogium on Sir John Mal colm — The Rabbi of the Jews — Chief of the Armenians — A Persian in pursuit of the Phi losopher's Stone — High respect for the English Character. Page 228 239.

Chapter XIX

Departure for Teheraun — The Prince's arrival prevented by the Astrologers — The March of Alexander — Our Persian Costume — Advice to Travellers — Beebee Rubaut— Fatiguing March to Kujur Minar — Plain of Rubaut — Rubaut Kereem — Bukhtiari Banditti — Arri- CONTENTS. XI val at Teheraun — Persian Bath — Dyeing Beards — Nigauristoon — Persian Flowers — Rhages — Visit Meerza Abool Hassan Khan — Kissera Kajar — Levee of the Ameen ed Dowlah — The Palace — Court Dress — The Prince Governor of Teheraun— Presentation to the King — Bastinado. Page 240 — 256.

Chapter XX

Summer Palace of Ali Khan Meerza— Gypsies— Soolimanea, Sougherabad, and Sufur Khojah — Casbin — Serah Dahn — Aubhaur — Saingula^Curious Animals — Ruins of Sulta nieh — Tomb of Sultan Khodabundah — King s Summer Palace — Zingaun — Town, Bazaar Mosque — Armaghauah — Auk-kend — Kaufilan Koh — Mountain of Tigers — Kizil Oozan — Bridge — Rude Scenery — Murder of Mr. Brown — Superstitions — Kurz Kula — Cause way — Oppression of Drowsiness —Arrive at Mæana — Curious Exhibition — Description of Mæana — Extraordinary Bug and Earth Louse — Turcoman Sha-ee — Tikhmadash — WTas mitch — Arrival at Tabriz — Departure of Messrs. Lamb and Hart — Introduction to the Prince Royal. Page 257—268.

Chapter XXI

Dinner with Colonel Mazerowitch — Projected Route — Arrangements for the Journey — Departure from Tabriz — Appearance of the Country— Shehruk — Golijah — Aher — New Mehmaundaur — Hoja Kishlaukh — Arabshehr — Beautiful Scenery — Yokhari Perasewaun — Gulakundee — Wheat Harvest— Venomous Serpent — Illustration of Plutarch — Cross the Araxes — Ulyaut Encampment — Arrival in Russian Territory — Meralian — Karabaugh, the Country of the Sacaseni — Peerhumud — Luxuriant Foliage — Cossacks Haymaking — Kha nakhi — Armenian Villages — Arrival at Sheesha — Appearance of the Town — Russian Officers' Quarters — Aga Beg, Chief of the Armenians, and his Brothers— Two Missionaries — Visit to the Commandant — Tomb of Nartuck — Sheesha, its Population, Trade, Climate, and Costume — Prescribe for my Host's Brother — My Fame as a Physician. Page 269 — 281.

Chapter XXII

Cossack Posts, Horses, Cheer — Mode of making Tea — Ruins of Berda — Abundance of Game— Lug — River Kur, the Ancient Cyrus— Koordameer— The Na-ib — Shumakhi — Interview with the Commandant — Town of Bakoo — Bazaar — Producti >ns— Population — Military Force— Fire-Temple of Indian Pilgrims— A Brahmin— A Viragee— A Naphtha WTell— My Servant knocked up— Cossack Officer— His quarters— Breakfast— Town of Kuba — Kula noo — Fall asleep on Horseback — Flooded state ofthe river Samur — Lesguy Tartars — Russian Notion of English Radicalism— Major of Cossacks— City of Durbun 1— Ancient Walls — Population — Extensive Barracks — Russian Salutation — Dinner — My new Servant — His Appearance and Dress — His easy Manners — Polite Attention of my Host — Departure from Durbund— Nervous Irritability — Vexatious Delays — My Servant a Catcher of Tartars —His desisting from Sleep. Page 282—305. CONTENTS.

Chapter XXIII

District of Shamkhaul — The Shamkhaul — Tarkee — A little Amazon — River Koi Soui — Extraordinary Flight of Locusts — Nogai Tartars— Quarantiue-house — Arrive at Kizliar ; am the guest of a friend of my Servant's — The Town, Population, and Produce — My new Ser vant, a Jew boy — Anecdote — Departure from Kizliar — My new Equipage — Post-horses, Cossack and Kalmuck Drivers — Locusts in the Desert — Quarantine— Arrival at Astrakhan — Scotch Missionary-house — Alexander Cassim Beg — Obstacles to the Missionaries — Their Privileges — City of Astrakhan — Population — Variety of Costume — Prisoner begging — Rus sian Charity — Trade — Salt — Productions — Indecent Custom — Sturgeon Fishery. Page 306—320.

Chapter XXIV

Departure from Astrakhan — Mode of dispersing Locusts — Colony of Sarepta — Modern Hippophagi — German Colonies — Russian travelling — Saratoff — Penza— Nishney Novo gorod — Effect of an Uniform — A Cossack Sentry — Rascolnicks — Horsemanship — Theatre —Russian Dance. Page 321—332.

Chapter XXV

Arrival at Moscow — Messrs. Hart and Lamb — Governor-General — Military Honours — Gallitsin Hospital — Burning of Moscow — The Kremlin — The Diligence — State Prisoner — Arrival in England. Page 333—338. NARRATIVE, L%C. %C

Chapter I

My fellow-travellers — Futteh Ali Khan — Departure from Bombay — Persian Syyud— His Compliment to the English, and opinion of our Devotion— Luminous Surface of the Sea — Dinner with the Prince — Persian Politeness —Arrival at Muscat — Barren Appearance of the Cove — Fortifications — Shipping — Ignorance of the Imaum and of his Officers in Navigation — Anecdote — The Imaum and Futteh Ali Khan — Our introduction to the Imaum— His character — Wahhabbee Pirate — Town of Muscat — Bazaar — Inhabitants — Method of extracting Toll — Imaum's stud — Slave Auction. In the month of January, 1824, Mr. Ker Baillie Hamilton, Mr. Lamb, Captain Hart, and myself, met from different parts of In dia, at the Presidency of Bombay. We were all resolved upon an overland journey to England, but differed as to the precise route.

By making a few mutual concessions on this point, we agreed to travel to gether.* We were assisted in this arrangement by Captain Alexander, * The Author begs to return his best acknowledgments to Mr. Lamb for the use of his notes, and to Captain Hart for the drawings which accompany this Work. 1! FUTTEH ALI KHAN. who kindly granted us a passage to Bussorah in his Majesty's ship Alligator, of which he had the command. January 26.— The night before we sailed, the officers of the frigate, and our travelling party, were invited to dine with His Highness Fut teh Ali Khan, who, as well as ourselves, embarked on board the Alliga tor the following morning. Futteh Ali Khan is an eunuch in the seraglio of his brother-in-law, Abbas Meerza, the Prince Royal of Persia, who married his sister. He is the son of the brave but unfortunate Loots Ali Khan, the last Per sian king of the Zund dynasty, who was murdered by Aga Mohum mud, in 1794.

Loots Ali has been aptly compared to Richard Cceur-de-Lion of England, and Charles XII. of Sweden, and he is still the subject of song and poetry in Persia. The usurper destroyed nearly all the members of the deposed family ; the remainder, he dispersed over Mazanderaun. At the period of his father's overthrow, our royal shipmate was s even years old ; his life was spared probably on account of his tender age ; but the condition to which he was reduced by the barbarous policy of the conqueror, made the boon of little value. The year previous to our meeting at Bombay, I had seen His High ness at Calcutta, where, in my capacity of aide-de-camp to the Marquis of Hastings, the then Governor General of India, I bad frequent op portunities of conversing with him. He had at that time just arrived from the court of the Prince Royal of Persia on a visit to India ; and our Government, with its usual liberality, had allowed him a hundred rupees a-day, and a splendid establishment ; attractions which proved so great to his Highness, that there is no knowing to what period DEPARTURE FROM BOMBAY. he might have prolonged his stay, had not ill health accelerated his departure.

His Highness is tall and emaciated ; his eyes are large and black, and his complexion is sallow. Though not more than thirty-eight years old, he appears double that age, and his voice and features so resemble those of a female, that when wrapped up in shawls, he might be easily mistaken for an old woman. January 27. — We went on board the Alligator at ten o'clock this morning. Shortly after us, Futteh Ali Khan embarked, under a sa lute from the batteries. As His Highness was in a delicate state of health, he was hoisted, or in sea-phrase, " whipped on board." The sailors, whose notions of princely appearance were probably formed by the pictures of our own royal family, seemed much surprised at the feminine look of the unfortunate Persian. Many a joke, incapable of repetition, did I hear made on this wreck of a fallen dynasty.

We got under weigh the moment the Prince was embarked. The weather was fine, and the wind favourable. Those of our friends who had come to take leave, were soon obliged to retreat to their boats, as we were rapidly getting out to sea. Before sun-set the town of Bombay had disappeared from view, and the high ghauts, (mountains) which mark this coast, were all we could discern of Indian land. The principal person of the Prince's establishment, was a Persian Syyud, a man of some information, and not deficient in humour. As I could speak Persian with tolerable fluency, I used frequently to amuse myself by asking his opinion respecting the improvement of our nation in different branches of science. Amongst other subjects, I tried b ■4 A PERSIAN SYYUD. to explain to him the properties of a steam-boat lately established in Calcutta, which, from its power of stemming wind, tide, and current, had been called by the Indians " Sheitaun koo noo," the Devil's Boat.

Wishing to pay a compliment to our nation, the Syyud replied, " When arts were in their infancy, it was natural to give the Devil credit for any new invention ; but now, so advanced are the English in every kind of improvement, that they are more than a match for the Devil himself." Mahometans are at all times ready to acknowledge our superiority in every thing connected with manufactures and arts. This concession, indeed, could not well be withheld, as most articles of a finer quality are imported from Europe into the East, and the greater portion of them from England. Nevertheless it is surprising that a people so bigoted to their own superiority in most respects, have allowed us a pre-eminence even in this. They reconcile it, however, to their vanity, by observing that we, as infidels, have our enjoyments in this life, while theirs, as true believers, will be in a world to come.

In short, that we are as superior to them, as " the children of this world are, in their generation, wiser than the children of light." January 29-— This morning, (Sunday,) divine service was perform ed. As soon as it was over, I went up to the Syyud, who had been watch ing our motions, and, to observe his reply, asked him why he had not said his prayers this morning? His answer was very laconic, Huf tee mun, Rooze Shuma. " Daily I, weekly you." The Mahometans believe, not with the Syyud, that we pray once a week, but that we never pray at all ; and, to say the truth, the o-ene ral conduct of our countrymen in the East, rather favours the sup position. PERSIAN POLITENESS. February 1. — The sea was covered this morning with a vast quantity of luminous blubber, the molusca of the medusa species.

It is sometimes of a scarlet colour ; that which we saw was blue, and resembled the flower of the convolvulus. At night it gave the sea the appearance of waves of liquid fire. This is a constant indi cation of an approach to the Persian shore. Captain Alexander being confined to his bed by a severe fall from a horse while at Bombay, deputed me to do the honours of the table. The Prince would sometimes favour us with his company, though, except for the honour, we could willingly have dispensed with his visits. On some of these occasions, he would describe, with true Persian minuteness, those particulars of health which we generally reserve for our physician. At other times he would sop his long skeleton fingers in all the dishes most suitable to his palate, thrust them into his mouth, and then, while wet with saliva, into the plate of some wondering midshipman beside him.

His Highness had one more habit which, though contrary to our opinions of good breeding, is reckoned in Persia the greatest proof of politeness, as it intimates a compliment to the host's good cheer. I mean eructation. In this sort of ventriloquism, His Highness was so well-bred, as to give us daily specimens of his powers to the disgust of our naval friends, who, not aware such a custom was fashionable in Persia, thought it " more honoured in the breach, than in the observance." February 2 — At two, p. M., we saw the high land near Muscat, distinguished by a conspicuous break in the mountains called the Devil's Gap. At sun-set, the land was about thirty miles distant. We continued under easy sail, standing off and on during the night. February 3. — At daybreak we were surprised to find ourselves to the ARRIVAL AT MUSCAT. leeward of our port, having been carried a long way to the north-west by a current.

February 4. — We anchored in the Cove of Muscat, the seat of government of a sovereign Arab prince, whose title is that of Imaum. The Cove is formed by a deep circular indentation in the coast, and the land, or rather rock, for there is not the least appearance of soil, rises nearly perpendicular in crude rugged masses, presenting an aspect of the greatest sterility imaginable. The roadstead and town towards the sea, are defended by a great parade of fortifications, but they appear to be in so ricketty a state, that the firing of their own guns would demolish them- Four large vessels belonging to the Imaum were at anchor in the har bour ; one of these was the Liverpool frigate, lately of his Majesty's ser vice, which the Imaum purchased two years ago. His Highness is very fond of ships, but knows very little about them.

From the manner in which his fleet is managed, it may be considered rather as a plaything. than as applicable to any serviceable purpose. His officers know about as much of nautical affairs as the Imaum himself. A short time ago, one of the ships being in danger, it was recommended to the officer command. ing, that a part of the standing rigging should be cut away. This he refused to do, on the plea that '< it would spoil the look of the ship !" On anchoring in the Cove, we gave His Highness a salute of eleven guns, which was immediately answered from the shore. Shortly after, Mr. Hunter, a lieutenant in the navy, and Gulaub, a native of India, agent to our Government, came on board to see if they could be of any service. We asked the Prince if he intended to go ashore, but he declined because he was not on good terms with the Imaum. The cause of difference was this : Futteh Ah Khan touched at Muscat on his way to India.

Introduction

TO THE IMAUM. 7 The Imaum, agreeably to Oriental custom, supplied his table with what ever was requisite. Futteh Ali, who is somewhat avaricious, made an application for money equivalent to the food with which he had been supplied. To this, the Imaum replied by sending him a dollar a-day ! Hence the coolness between their Persian and Arab Highnesses ! Our party accompanied the first heutenant ashore. The beach, up to high-water mark, was every where covered with oyster-shells. The sea literally swarmed with fish, and the air was almost darkened by the numerous water-fowls in pursuit of their finny prey. We landed at the northern extremity of the town, close to the mar ket-place, through which we passed in our way to the Imaum's palace. As His Highness was at prayers when we arrived, we waited at the house of Mr. Hunter till three o'clock, when we received a message by Gulaub that the Imaum was ready to receive us.

We were admitted through a narrow wicket into a square court. In the middle was a fountain ; round it were a few sickly shrubs. Arabs, variously armed, were collected into several groups, some sitting in a circle, others sleeping. In a corner of this court was a ladder like that used in a granary. We ascended to the top, and found there the Imaum, who shook hands with us separately, as we entered a long, narrow, unadorned apartment, where chairs were placed for himself and guests. Though His Highness understands Persian, and Hindoostany, and, as it is said, English, he spoke Arabic, and Gulaub officiated as in terpreter. The conversation, as may be supposed, was not of much in terest. The Imaum made many inquiries about the ship, and her rate of sailing, and said (in allusion to Futteh Ah Khan), that if captain Alexander had been alone, he would have gone to visit him.

He repeated several times, that the English and himself were as one, and that HIS CHARACTER. his house, his ships, and all that he possessed, were ours. A boy about ten years of age, who always accompanies the Imaum, was the only per son present during the interview, and Mr. Hunter informed us, that it was not his custom to allow his own people to be by, in his conversation with Europeans. Some sherbet, Avell flavoured with rose-water, was handed round by the eunuch in attendance. It may be worthy of remark, that pipes were not brought in, the Imaum, and other natives of Muscat, belonging to a sect called Bee-asis, whose strict tenets forbid the use of tobacco. In half an hour we took our leave, as much struck with the Imaum's handsome person, as we were pleased at his polite and unaffected address.

The patriarchal simplicity of the Arab character is strongly marked in every thing connected with this court. In the daily divan held by the Imaum, every one seats himself without any reference to priority. Even beggars can demand this audience, and may be sure of having a patient hearing given to their complaints. The Imaum has on all occasions shown himself a sincere ally of the English. It is owing, indeed, to our having extirpated the Wah habbee pirates, that he is now in possession of his sovereignty. When about sixteen years old, he succeeded his uncle, the late Imaum, in the following manner. Being discontented with his conduct, he one day proposed a ride to him. They were scarcely outside the walls of the town, when the nephew, lurking a little behind, drew his scimitar, killed his uncle, and, returning to Muscat, seated himself without opposition on the vacant throne.

He is, notwithstanding, much beloved by his subjects, who speak in high terms of his justice and moderation. As to the mere act of murdering his relative, it is held in the light of a " family TOWN OF MUSCAT. difference," and is no bar to his standing well in pubhc estimation, as a prince of mild and peaceable demeanour. In quitting the Imaum I must not forget to mention an anecdote of the man who admitted us into the court, his bold countenance having particularly attracted our attention. He was for many years one of the most formidable of the famous Wahhabbee pirates whose successful depredations struck terror throughout these seas, and threat ened the total extinction of the Imaum's power. A reverse of fortune led him to offer his services to the Imaum : they were immediately accepted, and the pirate was not ungrateful.