Travels in Egypt and Nubia, Syria, and the Holy Land ... New edition

Preface

. Ot; the 14th ofAugust, 1S1.6, the Hon. Chafi.es Leonard Irby und James Mangles, Commanders in the Royal Navy, left England, with the intention of making a tour on the Continent. This journey they were led to extend far beyond the original design. Curiosity at first, and an increasing admiration of antiquities as they advanced, carried them at length through several parts of the Levant, which have been little visited by modern travellers, and gave them more than four years of continued employment. Soon after their return to England, in the end of the year 1820, they were induced to transcribe a selection of the letters which they had addressed during their absence to their families in England, as the most convenient mode of satisfying the inquiries of numerous friends. A limited Edition, for private circulation only, was in consequence printed : this was so well received, and the copies were in such request, that Mr. Murray has been solicited, as a small mark of the friendship and esteem of the writers, kindly to accept the copyright, and further to oblige them by giving the book publicity in the more popular form of his Colonial and Home Library. March, 1844. CONTENTS. — ♦ —

Chapter I. Tour In Egypt And Nubia

PAGB Our Party and its objects — Departure from Philæ — Our Boat's Crew — Saracenic BuDding — Supposed Boundary between Egypt and Nubia — Kalapsche — Its Temple — We are taken for Physicians — Mr. Belzoni bitten by a Water Lizard — Arrival near Koroskoff — Oflidena — Arrival at Derry — Nubian Dance — Attempted impositions on the part of our Crew — Pass Ibrim — Researches of former Travellers — Abou-Simbel — The Dongola Caravan — The Mockatem Mountains — Ruins near Farras — Crocodiles — Torpedo — Cameliuns — Arrival at the second Cataract — Description of the Cataract — Elpha — Further troubles with our Crew — Abou-Simbel — The small Temple — Message from the Cashiefs — Arrival of the Cashiefs — We wait upon them — Presents — Offence taken by Halleel — We engage Labourers — Proceed to the large Temple — Description of the Front — Commence operations — Are abandoned by the Natives — We continue our Labours — The Darfur Caravan — Interruption from Mahommed and Ali Cashief — Arrival of a Mameluke — The Natives refuse to supply us with Provisions — We succeed in reaching the Door of the Temple . 1 CHAPTER IT.

Renewed Complaints of our Crew — We effect an Entrance into the Temple — Statues found in it — Colossal Statues in the Front — The Interior of the Temple — Paintings on the Walls — Description of the small Temple — We start on our return — The Cashiefs — Temples at Derry — At Armada — At Sabour — At Offidena — At Dekki — At Garbe Girshe — At Garbe Dendour — Unable to visit the Temple at Kalapsche — Ruins at Hindaw — Temple at Daboude — Present from oui* Crew — Philæ — General Observations on Nubia and itu Inhabitants

Chapter III

Descent ofthe first Cataract — Ancient Quarries at Assuan — Visit from the Aga — Elephantina — Koum Ombo — Mountains of the Chain — Temple at Edfoo — Fine Ruins at El Cab — Esneh— Luxor — Tombs of Gourna — Mummy Pits — Magnificent Tomb — The Tombs of the Kings — View from the Summits of the Lybian Chain — Observations on Thebes — Tentyra — Singular Use of the Mummy Cases — Ruins at the Foot of the Mockatem — Arrival at Cairo — Visit to the Pyramids — Observations on Cairo — Massacre of the Mamelukes — Appearance of the Country — The Nile — Travellers in Egypt — Expenses 37

Chapter IV. Syria

Departure from Cairo — Route to Jaffa— Al Arist— Haneunis— Gaza— Ancient Khan at Asdoud — Ruins of a Roman Bridge — Jaffa — Singular appearance of the British Consul — Liberality of the Aga — Cesarea — Ruins at Athlite — Convent on Mount Carmel— Acre — Zib— Value of Medical Knowledge— Tyre— Sidon— Lady Hester Stanhope— Bayruth— Tripoli — The Cedars of Lebanon — Baalbec— Arab Village— Latachia— Picturesque Scenery on the Orontes — Heavy Rains— Antioch — Aleppo— Mr. Barker— His hospitality and kindness — Abundance of Game — Proposed Route — Observations on Aleppo . , .53 CONTENTS. VIII

Chapter V. Pagb

Departure for ITamah— Letters of Introduction— Caravan from Mecca— Hamah— Khans - Georgian Slaves— Negotiations with the Arabs— Interview with them— Homs— Departure for Palmyra— Arab Camp— Interview with the Arab Chiefs— Arab Feast— Fine \ iew of Palmyra— Disappointment on reaching the Ruins— Description of them— Return to the Arab Camp— Keach Homs— Expenses of our Journey— Traits of the Arabs— lheir character for Dishonesty not deserved— Damascus— Sketch of intended Route . . 73

Chapter VI

Departure from Damascus— Source of the Jordan— Singular Lake — Panias— Abundance of Game— Safot— Its elevated situation— Vermin— Tiberias— Ancient Baths— Lake of Tiberias— Om Keis— Ruins around Tiberias— Bysan— Its Theatre and other Rums - Ford of the Jordan— The Valley of Adjeloun— The Callah-el-Rubbat— Sous— Remarkable Ruins at Djerash— Agreement with the Benesuckher Arabs to escort us to Kerek— Uproar at Katty— Description of Djerash— Troubles with oui- Escort— Szalt— Disturbance at quitting' Szalt— Escape from the Arabs— Difficulty in fording the Jordan— Nablous— Jerusalem— Visit ofthe Pilgrims to the Jordan— Future Route— Adventure at the " Tombs of the Kings." ="

Chapter VII

A TOUR TO PETRA AND THE DEAD SEA. Difficulties attending our proposed Visit to Petra— Our Party— Our assumed Names and Costumes— Departure from Jerusalem— The Mountain of the Franks— The Labyrinth — Tekoa— Hebron— Its Governor— Difficulty in obtaining a Guide — Jellaheen Arabs — Plain of the Dead Sea— Salt Hills— Singular Trees and Plants — Favourable Reception by the Ghorneys- Beautiful Geological Specimens — Stopped by Arabs — The Castle of Kerek — Description of Kerek — Christian Church — Reception at Kerek — Sheikh Yousouf — His openness of Character — Departure from Kerek — The Wahabees — Mahannah — Mote — Ruins at Dettrass — The Wady-el-Ahsa — Ruined Temple — Gharundel— Volcanic Mountains— Shobek — Abon Raschid — His Dispute with the Sheikh of Wady Mousa, who refuses to permit our Advance — Noble conduct of Abon Raschid — View of Wady Mousa — Conferences of the Rival Chiefs — Preparations for Hostilities — Reinforcement from Kerek— Hindi -Failure of Negotiations — The Enemy suddenly withdraw their Opposition lOSi

Chapter VIII

Wady Mousa — Encampment of the Inhabitants — The Necropolis of Petra— Remarkable Tombs — Narrowness of the Valley— Description of the Architecture— Romantic Pass — Representation of an Altai- — Scene of the Murder of thirty Pilgrims — Course of the Stream— Magnificent Temple— Singular appearance of the Rocks— Ancient Authors on Petra — Buildings in the Valley — Houses — Tombs — Visit to the Tomb of Aaron — View from the summit - Strange liberality of the Natives — Compelled to quit Petra — Parting with Abou Raschid— Locusts — Wady-el-Ahsa— Kerek— Mountains of the Franks — Start for the Dead Sea -The Ghorneys — The Oskar plant — The Dead Sea — Salt on its Shores — Lumps of Nitre and Sulphur— Absence of living Creatures — Scene in Ismayel's Tent — Optical illusion — Wady 5lodjeb — Country of the Amorites — Mayn — Visit to the Hot Springs — A Vapour Bath — Ebn Fayes — His violent threat — The Pools of Heshbon — Palace of ITircanus — Parting from Yousouf — His cbaracter — Djerash — The Valley ofthe %• Jordan— Tiberias — Acre — Observations on the Character and Customs of the Arabs — Arrival at Constantinople. EGYPT AND NUBIA,

Chapter I. Tour In Egypt And Nubia

Our Party and its objects — Departure from Philæ — Our Boat's Crew — Saracenic Buildings — Supposed Boundary between Egvpt and Nubia —Kalapsche — Its Temple — We are taken for Physicians — Mr. Belzoni bitten by a Water Lizard— Arrival near Koroskoff— Offidena — Arrival at Derry — Nubian Dance -Attempted impositions on the part of our Crew— Pass Ibrim— Researches of former Travellers— Abou-Simbel — The Dongola Caravan — The Mockatem Mountains — Ruins near Farras— Crocodiles — Torpedo— Camelions— Arrival at the second Cataract — Description of the Cataract— Elpha— Further troubles with our Crew — Abou-Simbel — The small Temple - Message from the Cashiefs— Arrival of the Cashiefs — We wait upon them— Presents— Offence taken by Halleel— We engage Labourers—Proceed to the large Temple - Description ofthe Front — Commence operations — Are abandoned by the Natives — We continue our Labours — The Darfur Caravan — Interruption from Mahommed and Ali Cashief — Arrival of a Mameluke — Tbe Natives refuse to supply us with Provisions — We succeed in reaching the Door of the Temple. 'TOWARDS the end of May, 1817, we joined company at Philæ with Messrs. Beechey and Belzoni, who were about to proceed up the Nile.

The principal object of this expedition, which was undertaken at the desire of Mr. Salt, was to endeavour to open the great temple at Abou-Simbel, which Mr. Bel zoni, who was that gentleman's agent, had attempted the preceding year. The whole face of the temple, as high as the heads of the statues which are in front of it, was buried in the sand which had been blown from the desert. This sand, in the course of time, had accumulated to such a degree, as not only to fill up the whole of the valley, but also to form a mountain, sloping from the front of the temple for 200 or 300 yards towards the banks of the Nile. From all external appearance it is probable this temple, which is hewn out of the solid rock, had been shut for very many centuries, perhaps for more than 2000 years ; and in that case, if it had not suffered too much in the general pillage and destruction whieh all the sacred edi fices underwent at the conquest of Egypt, by Cambyses and other subse quent princes, it was hoped that some thing interesting to the antiquary might be discovered.

We considered it a fortunate cir cumstance for us to have an opportunity of joining in so interesting an undertaking. It is advisable that tra vellers should be both numerous and well armed in Nubia : our party was now a toierably strong one, as includ ing Mr. Beechey's Greek servant, an Arab cook, and a janissary, it con sisted of seven persons. We could only add one solitary musket to a pretty good stock of arms of every descrip tion which Mr. Beechey had with him. We hired a boat at a village situated on a point amidst a cluster of date trees which bounds the view of the river from Philæ to the southward n The crewconsisted of five men, including the reis or captain, and three boys : three of the men and the reis were brothers, and the fifth was their brother-in-law. This latter was dressed in a blue shirt, from which circumstance we nick. named him the " blue devil ; " his real name was Hassan ; he will be by and by a conspicuous character in this narrative.

The boys were sons of some one or other of the crew, and the boat they said belonged to the father of them all, an old mau who wore a green turban, as a descendant of the Prophet. ln the afternoon of the 1 6th of June, we started with a fine fair wind, having first settled a quarrel between two of our crew, in which one of them was cut through the calf of the leg, to the bone. Our agreement with the reis was for lUO piastres per month, 41. sterling ; and at the end of the voyage, if they behaved well, a backsheeish or present was promised, a stipulation whicli always forms part of similar bargains in this country. It was expressly understood that the crew should find their own provisions. As we advanced upwards, the sand hills filling up the cavities between the black granite rocks presented a most remarkable appearance ; the surface in many places was quite fine and smooth, reminding one, with the exception of the difference of colour, of some of the scenery in Switzerland, where the snow before it cracks, and after it bas been drifted fine, presents just such an appearance.

The mountains here close in upon the river, and we looked in vain for that rich plain which, in Egypt, is every where to be seen on the banks of the Nile. On the heights, as we proceeded, we saw several Saracenic buildiugs placed in most picturesque situations ; they tend very much to set off this wild species of scenery ; we observed also, throughout Nubia, numerous piles of stones placed ou the most elevated and conspicuous parts of the mountains, to indicate the vicinity of the Nile to the caravans from the interior of Africa. which dow gave place to those of calcareous stone, though on the river side, in most instances, their exterior still retains a black colour and a polish. The vein of red granite, which begins below Assuan, and extends beyond Philæ, is supposed to continue in an easterly direction till it reaches the shores of the Red Sea, keeping, nearly throughout, the same breadth ; the observations which we made on our trips into the desert from Assuan tended to confirm this opinion.

On the afternoon of the 1 7th, we came to a place where the mouutains close in upon the river in a very abrupt manner, leaving no level land on the banks ; the hills at the same time presented some very grand scenery. This by some travellers is termed the boundary between Egypt and Nubia, though I should be inclined to agree with the French, that the first cataract is a more natural limit to the two countries ; as, immediately above Assuan, you perceive not only a country quite different from that below, but even natives of a character and colour in no way resembling the Egyptians, differently clothed, and speaking another language. This evening we arrived at Kalapsche, and as we had to wait some time while our janissary was buying provisions, we went up to inspect the temple, though we had agreed not to visit the antiquities until we returned from the second cataract.

The ruins of this edifice are large and magnificent, but it has never been finished : it consists of a large peristyle hall, (most of the columns of which have fallen, and many are unfinished.) two chambers, and a sanctuary. The exterior walls are smooth, the sculpture not having even been commenced, and iu the inte rior it is not finished, there being in no instance either stucco or painting There has been first a quay on the river's side, and then a flight of steps as an approach to the temple. The outer hall had several Greek inscriptions iu it, some of them in tolerable perfection. In the evening, before we stopped, we passed two crocodiles ; they were Half a day's sail from Philæ brought us to the end of the granite rocks, on a shoal in the middle of the Nile, and retired before we got near them : they were the first we had seen since we left Philæ ; indeed they are never met with near that island.

On the 19th a foul wind obliged us to stop, when an old man came to beg medi cine, thinking we were hackim, or physicians, a strange notion which all barbarous nations have respecting Europeans : we gave him some advice, though we declined any pretensions to the title he had given us. Bruce, in making himself acquainted with the rudiments of physic, showed how well he judged of the proper mode of tra velling in these countries ; and his narrative proves how much he bene fited by this knowledge. Our denial of all knowdedge of physic met with little belief among the natives; and to induce us to give them assistance, they offered us two fowls for any aid we would render . to their patients. On the 20th we saw a camel swimming across the river ; one man swam before with a halter in his mouth, leading the ..animal, another followed behind.

June 21. — We this day observed, immediately opposite Duckie, two lads crossing the river which is here tolerably wide, and pushing and towing a laden reed raft. June 24. — This morning we were opposite Koroskoff ; we purchased a sheep for nine piastres, but were obliged to send the money before they would even show the animal ; we re monstrated much against this curious method of making a bargain, but no thing would induce them to change their plan. We this day saw the cali bash growing wild on creepers up the acacia-trees on the river side. Our crew got three very good ones. The boys also found a sort of wild currant growing close to the water side ; we tasted some, and thought them not unlike the bleaberry, though not shaped like them, being round ; in size and colour they are alike. Our custom was always to bathe morning and evening, frequently oft ener.

This evening, while at this re creation, Mr. Belzoni was bitten in the foot, which caused him to cry out somewhat loudly for assistance. Next morning he was bitten again, in the same place ; this last bite fetched blood, taking a piece out of the toe. Mr. Belzoni plainly feit something twisting round his leg ; we all agree in thinking it must have been a water lizard. The other day a man hailed us and asked " if we would buy a spy glass ;" he said he was a native of Senaar. We thought it must be the property of some European who had been robbed, and therefore told him we would see it first, upon which he came into the boat, that we might carry him to the village where it was (about four hours' sail above) ; how ever, on arriving there he walked off, and we never heard again either of him or his glass — the fact is, he wanted a passage, and we gave him credit for so cunning a method of getting one.

June 25. — We this day arrived near Koroskoff, at the place where the river reaches the southernmost point, before the beginning of the second cataract ; for the river here turns due north, and continues in that direction between ten and fifteen miles ; after whicli it becomes S. W. and then west to the second cataract. The Nile here as sumes a picturesque appearance, having several islands and rocks in the On the twenty-second observed the purple acacia ; it bears some resem blance to a shrub, and is evidently a dwarf species of the mimosa ; never attaining a height beyond a foot or fifteen inches ; excepting in colour, the flower is like the yellow acacia. On the twenty-third our crew killed a snake that was basking on the river side ; it was gray, with two black marks below its head. It was curious to see the precautions they used before they would surprise this reptile, which they represented as poisonous, though I did not believe it was so.

We had this morning a regular wild-goose chase after an old one and four young ones ; the crew jumped overboard and caught them all, though with some difficulty. I mention this merely to give some idea how expert these peo ple are in the water ; they may almost be said to be amphibious. b centre of it. In the evening our janis sary shot a wild-goose ; its plumage was beautiful, and its taste exceedingly good, though we had not the means of cooking it in a very savoury manner. June "26. — Observed the Nile to have fallen about 1 1 foot. It is now twenty two days since it began to rise. It is already above the cataract of Syene (Assuan). June 27. — We this day saw two crocodiles ; our men requested us to fire some muskets to frighten them away, but were not afraid of towing tiie bark in the water close to the bank where we observed them.

I think, from what we have noticed of these animals, that it is very seldom, if ever, they attack people. This morning a man on horse'nack came down to the river side, and said he was sent by Halleel Cashief with salam alicams (compliments) : he, however, seemed chiefly intent upon getting something for himself ; and, in a moment, enu merated 'several articles which he requested us to give him ; such as coffee, snuff, gunpowder, salt, &c. ; we told him we had none to spare, as we reserve those articles for Hassan Ca shief, tlie chief person in this country, and whose favour it is necessary to gain by presents, in order tu get per mission to open the temple at Abou- Simbel. That chief has pledged his word to Mr. Belzoni, that none but the English should be allowed to work there, on condition that he, Hassan , is to have half the gold that was found in it : for these people have no idea that our researches for antiquities in this country have any other object than to get treasure ; and they laugh when we tell them we are looking for stone statues, and slabs with inscrip tions on them.

They cannot conceive what motive can induce us to come such a distance, and expend three or four thousand piastres to clear away an accumulated mass of sand, for no other purpose than to find some granite figures. We now observed the water to be exceedingly muddy, and of a reddish chasing a statue ; but after much prevarication, we could not even get a look at it. The natives of this place are both handsome and well made, a circumstance very rare in Nubia ; their complexion, however, was un usually dark. In the evening we ar rived at Derry, and sent word to Daoud and Halleel Cashief, the two sons of Hassan, (who, most unfortu nately for us, was at Dongola, and by whose absence we lost the friendship and assistance of the only honest man in the country,) that we were going up to open the temple at Abou-Simbel,and would thank them to send orders for us to be permitted to work ; adding, at the same time, that we would wait on them and pay our respects on our return.

While waiting there we had a specimen of Nubian dancing ; about twelve lads assisted ; the music con sisted only in clapping the hands, in the doing of which they kept very good time. I cannot say much for the elegance or gracefulness of the dance, as it was nothing more than lifting up the right foot and stamping it down again, then rising up on the left foot by the spring of the instep, and after wards letting the feet rest on the flat sole. This was done for a hacksheeish which we gave them. We also gave the reis aud crew a baeksheeish of ten piastres, but they said it was not enough, so we added another five. At night, when we stopped, the reis came to us to say that we were two parties, and therefore should by rights pay double the money we had agreed to give for the boat. They also com plained that we had not given sufficient to the crew to eat ; that Jacques (an agent of Mr. Drovetti, a Frenchman living in this country, and who hired the boat not long before us,) always gave them one-third of his coffee, meat, bread, and every think that he had ; in short, they imagined that up here we were at their mercy.

Now, as we had regularly fed them, and given them coffee without stint every day, wa thought it time to come to an under standing, and therefore told them that yellow colour. We stopped a short time at Offidena with a view of purthe boat was at our disposal, and that j it was do affair of theirs if we had two or five different parties ; and with re- 1 gard to food, that as they were not contented with what we had given ! them spontaneously, they should have nothing. We have no doubt but our janissary and the Greek servant put them up to this request, as the soldier took a poor cowardly part, and urged that as we were in a savage country, we had better temporize with them till we were on our return, thus show ing of how little use these fellows are to protect travellers. June 28. — Fassed Ibrim, situated on a rude but picturesque hill of a conical shape, and of barren calca reous stone.

There is not no w a single inhabitant to be seen, and it presents a sad picture of ruin and desolation. Mr. I*gh, in his recent publication, (a few extracts from which we have seen in the Quarterly Review for February last) says "this town was destroyed by the Mamelukes." It was the extent or limit of his voyage in Nubia. He travelled in 1813. Mr. Bankes, it appears, was the first Englishman who ever succeeded in gaining the second cataract : he tra velled in 1815. I fancy he took much about the same tour in Syria that we mean to take, though we have not as yet seen his journey traced out. In 1816, Mr. Drovetti, the ci-devant French consul in Egypt, succeeded in reaching the second cataract, together with his two agents, Rifaud and Cail liaud : these travellers, together with Sheikh Ibrahim (a real friend of ours) and Mr. Belzoni, are the only persons that have reached thus far.

Mr. Bel zoni had his wife with him in man's clothes. Poor Norden, who travelled eighty years ago, could only reach Derry. His Nubian trip is interesting, though not very instructive. Denon went no higher than Philæ ; and Pocock only readied that isle. On the tops of the hills near Ibrim, we re marked many conical hillocks, as marks to direct the Dongola caravans. This evening we saw a crocodile sleep ing on the sand a considerable way up. We were within twenty yards of him, but as none of our muskets were loaded with ball we did not fire ; we, however, made a noise to awaken him, when he rushed into the water with his mouth open, looking very savage. He was about fifteen feet long. June 29. — We arrived at Abou- Simbel, and unfortunately found that Hassan Cashief was absent ; we sent again to Derry, to Daoud and Hal leel, for leave to begin to open the temple when we returned from the second cataract.

The banks of the river between I brim and Abou-Simbel are beautifully spread over with the yellow and purple acacia, forming thick hedges, which have a very pleas ing effect ; a species of the tamarisk is also common here. This is the plant that produces the gum arabic, which is brought in great quantities from the interior of Africa in the vicinity of Darfur. The seeds of the aca cia form also a lucrative branch of trade, being sent in the first instance to Cairo, and then shipped for Europe, where they are used for tanning. The water is now become exceedingly thick, it is not, however,unpleasant to the taste. June 30. — While we were at Abou- Simbel, the Dongola caravan passed ; it was preceded by about fifty camels, carrying provisions, &c. The conductors were armed with swords, daggers, and spears.

They wore sandals to preserve the soles of their feet from the burning sand, which we now feel most sensibly, being obliged to stop every now and then to pour it out of our shoes. These sandals are much like those worn by the ancient Egyp tians, and which are often found on the feet of the mummies. The range of the Mockatem mountains terminate nearly opposite Abou- Simbel in a remarkable manner, i'n a considerable number of pyramidal hills rising up from the sand, and having the appearance of a gigantic camp ; some of the hills are oblong, and in the form of marquees : others are so perfectly pyramidal, that it is difficult to divest one's-self of the idea that they are the work of men's hands. July 1. — Stopped opposite the village of Farras. We here examined the site of a large Nubian city, and amongst the modern stone buildings of the Arabs found several remnants of temples, with hieroglyphics.

In one was a beautiful cornice and a frieze, with the winged globe highly finished. The natives showed us some Greek and Roman ornaments, such as the spread eagle, ornamental cross, &c. Near the village are some fragments of a temple, consisting of several broken pieces of red granite pillars, also some small ones of beautiful white marble. From the appearance of these ruins, the fineness of the situation, and the rich plain of cultivated land near it, I think this must once have been a populous and flourishing city, in the time of the Greeks and Romans, as well as the Egyptians. Close to the ruins there is a natural rock standing by itself, with a doorway leading to a very small recess or chamber, in which are two Egyptian figures, in intaglio, on the wall : one is a man, the other a woman with the lotus flower in her hand.