Santo Domingo, past and present. With a Glance at Hayti

Front matter

SANTO DOMINGO. PRINTED BY BAI.LANTVNE AND COMPANY &MHBURGH AND LONDON Frontispiece, ST DOMINGO PRODUCTS. SANTO DOMINGO PAST AND PRESENT WITH A GLANCE AT HAYTI Bl' SAMUEL HAZARD AUTHOR OF "CUBA WITH PEN AND PENCIL" iHaps anti Sllustratt'ons LONDON SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, LOW, & SEARLE CROWN BUILDINGS, 188 FLEET STREET 1873 [All rights reserved,] TO THE ORIGINAL OF THIS TH 17 DISTINGUISHED PRESIDENT OF CORNELL COLLEGE, N.Y., IN PLEASANT MEMORY <JF DAYS OF AGREEABLE COMPANIONSHIP, AS WELL AS OF SOME ROUGH EXPERIENCES AMID NOVEL AND BEAUTIFUL SCENES IN SANTO DOMINGO, QEfjcsc parses ave Sctucatco BY HIS SINCERE FRIEND, THE AUTHOR. fHE author of these pages *x makes no pretension to be \ fthe "historian" of St j| Domingo ; his only endea- *5 vour in making this volume is to bring together in a continuous and condensed form, for the benefit of the general reader, the facts connected with the history of the

Preface

. Island of St Domingo from its discovery by Columbus to the present time, illustrating, as much as possible, its scenes and people by his own sketches, and photographs and en gravings gathered from various sources. At a time when the masses of the people of the United States were watching with interest the action of their representatives in Congress on the question of the admission of St Domingo into the Union, the author was surprised to find how little was really known, either of the present or the past of that historic isle ; and in endeavouring to obtain this information for himself, he was astonished to find the great lack of books (at least accessible, and in the English language) giving connected information of an island that had for so long a time, and in so many ways, played such an important part in the history of the world.

Joining afterwards, on the island, the Commission sent out by the United States Government, the author, after almost entirely circumnavigating the island, and traversing its length and breadth, was amazed to find so magnificent a part of the New World so generally uncultivated and even uncivilised, after having been the first chosen spot of settlement of the discoverers from the Old "World. Having seen the comparatively advanced condition of affairs in the sister isle of Cuba (which is not nearly so highly favoured by Nature), and comparing it with the present deplorable state of St Domingo, the curiosity of the author was roused to know, if there were not other reasons than the reputed one of climate why an island so attractive and valuable in every way as St Domingo certainly is should remain for so long a time unsettled and uncivilised.

Coming to London, and consulting almost every early PREFA CE. IX writer of note upon the Island of St Domingo found in the treasures of the British Museum, the author is satisfied that the past history, especially of the Spanish part of St Domingo, is little known to the general reader of to-day, and that in that history is found ample reason for the pre sent condition of St Domingo and Hayti — a condition, he thinks, arising only from the fact that this beautiful island has simply been the ''victim of misfortunes," brought upon it by its being successively the battle and disputed ground of the Spaniards and Indians, the Buccaneers, the English, the French, the Spaniards, the Haytians, and, finally, the Dominicans themselves. " The truth is not always to be told," is an old adage, and it is possible that the notes on Hayti may give offence to some ; but the author does not see that anything is to be gained by glossing over the present utterly hopeless condition of this part of the island, simply in consideration of the feelings of a few over-sensitive " patriots," because, even in the definition of this word, they and the writer might not agree.

He has been surprised, however, to find, on reading over the accounts of the different writers who have visited Hayti since the expulsion of the French, how perfectly justified are their remarks and experiences by the condition to-day of affairs in that Republic (?). The author is sure no one more ardently hopes to see a change for the better, as well in the government as in the people of Hayti, than he, feeling as he does, that not only will the people of Hayti be benefited, but so will be the great causes of humanity and civilisation. As there may be readers who would like to follow out PREFA CE. X more in detail the subject treated of in this book, the author has given a list of the most valuable authorities which he has consulted at the British Museum, and to which he shall make little or no further reference in his work, though he confesses he has used them freely, even at times quoting their very language.

Notwithstanding the number of these writers, they all go over pretty much the same ground in detached accounts, except some few who give greater de tails, but only in matters peculiarly local, and that would not be interesting to the general reader, who, the author hopes, will find in the present volume all that can interest liim. The map accompanying the work is compiled from the one ordered by the Dominican Government in 1858, from the surveys and data of Baron Schomburgh and the French engineer Mendez, the latest and most reliable chart of the entire island yet published. Paris, October 1872. VALE 1 18

Chapter I. St Domingo

Its Extent, Location, Physical Peculiarities — The Aborigines — Their Habits, Customs, &c, ......

Chapter II. The Conquest

Landing of Columbus — First Settlement — Columbus's Return on Second Voyage, and Founding of the First Permanent Colony — Expeditions to the Interior — Settlements there — Rapid Advance of the Island — Columbus's Hard Treatment — Ovaudo's Rule,

Chapter III. The Early Spaniards

Their Treatment of the Natives— Ovando's Rule — Habits of the Spaniards — Negro Slaves — Rapid Decrease of the Aborigines — Sugar-making — Diego Columbus and his Successors — The War of Enrique, and Final Peace, ...... CONTENTS. XII PAGE 49 68 89 113

Chapter IV. The Decline Of St Domingo

Failure of the Mines — Expeditions fitted out — Depredations on Spanish Vessels — Depopulation of the Island — Neglect of Spain — Its Colonial Policy — Drake's Attack — The Capture and Ransom of the Capital, ......-•

Chapter V. The Buccaneers And Early French

Origin of the Buccaneers — Their Manners and Customs — Settlement of Tortuga, and their Extension from thence under the Auspices of the French — Settlement of St Domingo, ....

Chapter VI. The Joint Occupation Of The French And Spaniards

The Boundary Question — Poverty of the Spaniards — Advance of the French — Successful Agriculture — Tobacco and Indigo Culture — Cocoa- Trees — The Introduction of the Coffee-Plant — General Improvement of the whole Island— Character of the Inhabitants — French Luxury — Discontent of the Planters,

Chapter VII. The Revolutions Of French St Domingo

Mode of Government of the French — Discontent of the Planters — Their Desire for Independence — Aspirations of the Mulattoes — Oge's Attempt at Insurrection — The Revolution in France — Its Effects on St Domingo — Contentions among the Whites — Insurrection of the Slaves — Participation of the English in the Affairs of the Island — Their Defeat, and Success of the Blacks — Cession of the Island to the French, ......

Chapter VIII. Toussaint's Rule

The Independence of Hayti — Toussaint takes Possession of the Whole Island, giving it a Constitution — Affairs under Toussaint — Napoleon Attempts to Restore the Island to the French — Details of Le Clerc's Expedition — Toussaint's Capture^Kebellion against the French — Cristophe — Dessalines — Final Failure of the French, and CONTENTS. XIII pagi; 133 154 172 195 212 their Capture by the English Fleet — Dessalines Marches against the Spanish Part — His Discomfiture — His Cruelties in that Part of the Island — Becomes Emperor — His Cruelties and Butcheries of the Whites — Conspiracy against Him — His Death,

Chapter IX. The Whole Island United Under One Government

Dessalines' Successors — Cristophe and Petion — Civil War — Peace between the Two Chiefs — Troubles in the Spanish Part — The Expulsion of the French — Co-operation of the English — Restoration of the Authority of Spain — Rebellion against her Rule — Death of Cristophe and Petion — Boyer's Rule — Allegiance of the Spanish Part to Him — Condition of the Island — French Claims — Boyer's Decline — The Republic of Dominica, ....

Chapter X. Land Ho

Arrival in the Tropics — First Sight of Land — Turk's Island — Salt Keys — The Haytian Shore — The Dominican Coast — -Arrival off Puerto Plata — Its Harbour — Funny Method of Going Ashore — A Night Visit — Historical Notes of the Town — Its Bay — Situation — Trade — People, ........

Chapter XI. Samana And The South Coast

Cape Samana — Balandra Head — The Bay of Samana — Santa Barbara — General Account of Samana Bay — The Caves of San Lorenzo — Savanna la^Mar — Voyage round the South Coast, .

Chapter XII. St Domingo City

The United States Commission — First Impression of the City — Visit to Baez and his Cabinet— Historical Notes of the City — Its Present Condition and Appearance — Trade and Future Prospects — Schools — The Mausoleum of Columbus — Dominican Amusements — San Carlos and the Exterior of the City— The Harbour as a Port- Well of Columbus — Mahogany Trade— Labourers, CONTENTS. XIV PAGE 235 247 274 296 319

Chapter XIII. Vicinity Of St Domingo City

Natural Caves — The Caves of Santanna — The Boundary Line — Beata and Alta Vela Islands — Neyba — Salt Mines — Sugar Plantations — Azua — Ocoa Bay, . . ....

Chapter XV. Journey Overland

Organising a Party — Our Route — Crossing the Ozama — Tropical Forests — Lunching "al fresco " — First Night Experiences — La Tosa — San Pedro — Natural Farm — Bad Roads — Apartments — The Country People — Rough Experiences — Grand Scenery — Sillon de la Viuda — Cevico — Ride to Cotuy, .....

Chapter XVI. Cotuy

Its Appearance, History, and Location — The Yuna River — An Old Church, and Novel Mode of Advertising — A Village Cemetery — A First Regular Meeting to Receive the Commissioner — Courtesy of the People — Swimming a River —The " Royal Road " — Hu-man-icu — Old Cocoa-Trees — Domestic Institutions — Woman's Rights — Reception at La Vega — The Town and its History — Hospitable Attentions — The only Steam-Eugine — The " Grand" Cathedral — An Official Breakfast — The Famous Hill Santo Cerro — Superb View of the Vega— The Old Town of La Vega— The Valley of Constanza — A Paradise — Arrival at Mocha — An Attractive Town — Pretty Girls — Handsome Cemetery — Eloquence of the Commissioner, and some Plain Talk, .....

Chapter XVII. From Mocha To Santiago

Improved Roads — Fine Lands — Reception at Santiago — First Sight of the Yaqui — Description of Santiago and the Gold Regions, CONTENTS. XV PAGE 336 361 387 402

Chapter XVIII. From Santiago To Monte Cristo

The Puerto Plata Road — Fording the Yaqui — Its Bottom Lands — The Vega again — A Dangerous Insect — Polite " Guajiro " — Tobacco Culture — A Dry Country but Fine Climate — The Amina and Mao Rivers — Some Tropical Habits — Swimming the River at Guayubin — A Faro Bank and Hotel — Multiplicity of Generals — A Long Ride through a Sterile Country — The Agave Species — Monte Cristo — Left Alone on the Island — Manzanillo Bay — The Country South of the Yaqui — The Uninhabited Region — Crocodiles and Iguanas, ........

Chapter XIX. The North Coast Line From Monte Cristo To Puerto Plata

Lack of Water — Advantages of Irrigation — Tobacco Preparation — Dominican Soldiers and Haytian Battles — Country Hospitality — Used-up Horses — Fresh Start — The " Puerta de los Hidalgos " — Bottom Lands of the Coast — Impromptu Cooking — Old Isabella — Laguna — Domestic Economy — A Long Ride — Played-out Horse — The Road from Santiago to Puerto Plata — The Requeros — Rough Accommodations — Bad Road to Puerto Plata — Arrival there and Departure, ........

Chapter XX. Journey To Hayti

" Cosa Dominica" — Dauphin Bay — Poor Accommodations — Tropic Night at Sea — A Cuban Horror — Cape Haytian from the Sea — First Experiences in Hayti — Haytian Officials — Value of Haytian Currency — Advantage of being Supposed a United States Commissioner, . .......

Chapter XXI. Cape Haytian

The Paris of the West Indies — Population, Commerce, &c. — Ruins of French Civilisation — Beautiful Views — Fear of American Encroachments — Duplicity of Officials — Arbitrary Government — Trip to Millot — Scenes on the Road — Arrival at Sans Souci — Strange Treatment— Polite Officials—" Taking " the Citadel— Cristophe the Emperor— Horrible Cruelties — Views of the People — Return to the Cape, ....... CONTENTS. XVI PAGE 423 441 466

Chapter XXIII. Coasting The Island

Passengers and Tropical Mode of Travel — Coast Scenery — Port de Paix — Tortuga Island — St Nicholas Mole — Bay of Port-au-Prince — The Town — Odd Appearance— Lack of Hotels — Suburbs of Port-au-Prince — Pretty Couutry-Houses — Old French Places — La Coupe — Road-Making — Haytian Soldiers — Feeling about Annexation — Noble Conduct of the United States Minister — Aiding the Dominican Revolutionists — Visit to the Interior — Sugar Plantations — Lake Azuey — A Storm in lieu of a Dinner — A Long Ride in Bad Weather — Departure — Gonaives, ....

Chapter XXIV. Appendatory

A General View of St Domingo — Some Reflections on its Future — Views of President Grant — Climate — Insects — Seasons — Lands — Emigrants — The Population and its Character — Finances — Concessions and Grants — Hints to Emigrants or Travellers — Dominican Manifestoes— General Statistics — Treaty for Fixing the Boundaries — Notes on the Mineral Products of the Island, ILLUSTRATIONS. products OF santo domingo, ..... Frontispiece. THE NORTH COAST OFF PUERTO PLATA, . . To face Page 4 OLD SANTO DOMINGO CITY, ..... „ 62 ENTRANCE TO COFFEE ESTATE, . . . „ 108 TOWN AND BAY OF PUERTO PLATA, . . . . ,, 176 PLAN OF SAMANA BAY, ..... „ 195 A TROPICAL MORNING, ..... „ 197 SOUTH COAST — LOS LLANOS, .... „ 207 SANTO DOMINGO CITY, . . . . . „ 212 CAVES OF SANTANNA, . . ... . „ 239 PARASITES — A ST DOMINGO BROOK, ... „ 2S2 VIEW FROM SILLON DE LA VIUDA, .... „ 287 THE VEGA REAL FROM THE SANTO CERRO HILL, . . „ 311 MOCHA, ....... „ 316 THE RIVER YAQUI, ...... „ 321 SANTIAGO, ....... „ 324 CACTII COUNTRY, NEAR MONTE CRISTO, ... „ 339 FLOWERING ALOE, ...... „ 351 MONTE CRISTO BAY, ..... „ 352 NEGRO HABITATIONS, ..... „ 368 CONUCO OF PLANTAIN AND TOBACCO, ... „ 384 TOWN AND BAY OF THE CAPE, .... „ 402 PALACE OF SANS SOUCI (MILLOT), .... „ 415 PORT-AU-PRINCE, ...... „ 449 b LIST OF SMALL ENGRAVINGS.

PAGE PAGE Plan of Tortuga, ... 77 Port de Paix 83 Preparing Tobacco, ... 92 Preparing Indigo, ... 93 Old French Sugar Mill, . . 95 Old French Plantation, . .98 Toussaint L'Ouverture, . . 134 Jean Pierre Boyer, . . . 164 Salt Keys, . . . .173 Going Ashore, . . . .175 Loading Cargo, . . . 175 Street in Puerto Plata, . . 177 The Old Fort, . . . .178 Dominican American, . . 181 Market Square, . . .183 Washing Clothes, . . . 184 Horse, ..... 186 Water-carrier, .... 186 The Manati, . . . .191 Cabo Viejo (Old Cape), . . 192 Cape Samana, .... 196 Balandra Head, . . .197 Santa Barbara, . . .198 Donkey, . , ... 202 Meeting in Arsenal Square, . 209 A Weary Traveller, . . . 211 The Ozama, — Ruins of Columbus' House, . . . 213 President Baez, . . .215 Plan of St Domingo City, . 219 Old Part of St Domingo, . . 220 Business Street, . . . 221 A Dominican School, . . 223 Portrait of Columbus, . . 7 Caribbean Skull, ... 9 Drums, ..... 10 Canoe (Oviedo), . . .11 Huts (Oviedo), ... 12 Wine-making (Benzoni), . . 13 Idols, . . . . 13,14 Figures cut in the Rock, . . 14 Curing the sick (Hakluyt, after Benzoni), . . . .15 Hammock (Oviedo), . . 17 Sketch by Columbus, . . 19 The Caravels, .... 20 The Agouti, .... 22 The Coati, .... 23 A Spanish Attack (De Bry), . 26 A Spanish Master (De Bry), . 35 Spaniard in Litter, ... 35 Sugar-making (De Bry), . . 38 Suicides (Benzoni), ... 39 Gold-mining (De Bry), . . 40 Punishment of Negroes (De Bry), .... 45 House of Don Diego Columbus, 47 Hatero, 50 An old Street in St Domingo City, .... 60 Sir Francis Drake, ... 61 A Buccaneer, ... 71 A Boucan, . . . . i'2 Merry-making, ... 74 Sir Henry Morgan, ...

LIST OF SMALL ENGRAVINGS.

XX PAGE PAGE The Mausoleum of Columbus, . 224 The Cotton Tree, . . .350 Cathedral Door, . . .226 Cayman, . . . . -\ 355 Old Franciscan Monastery, . 232 The Iguana, .... -358 Lizards, 364 St Domingo Ferns, . . . 236 Entrance to Cave, . . . 238 Machete, 367 Tamarind 240 Primitive Sugar Mill, . . 369 Manuel Seybano, . . . 242 Crossing the Isabella, . . 277 Sugar Boilers, .... 369 Pass of the Cavaliers, . . 371 Musician, .... 278 Wild Hogs, . . . .374 Sand-box Fruit, . . .278 Parasitical Vines, . . . 376 A Natural Farm, . . .279 Tarantula, . . . .377 Old Negro, . . . .282 Played out, . . . .380 A Native Hut, . . .284 On the Bajabonita, . . . 381 Apartments, .... 286 Point Isabella, . . . 385 Sensitive Plant, . . .288 Dauphin Bay, . . .392 Royal Plain, . . . .290 Cape Haytian from the Sea, . 393 Severino Gonzalez, . . . 292 The Nondescript, . . . 394 The " Commandante," . . 293 Plaza and Old Church, Cotuy, . 297 Cemetery at Cotuy, . . . 299 Haytian Waiter, . . . 398 " Bord de Mer," . . .404 A Mercantile House, . . 405 Meeting at Cotuy, . . . 300 Old French Place, . . .407 " Camino Real," . . .302 William, 409 " La Fuente," . . . .304 Squatters in Ruined Places, . 411 The Cocoa, . . . .305 Haytians, .... 420 The only Steam-Engine in St Domingo, .... 307 Haytian Coast, . . . 444 St Nicolas Mole, . . .445 La Vega, . . . .308 United States Minister's House, 447 La Vega Cathedral, . . .309 A Street in Port-au-Prince, . 450 Mocha Cemetery, . . .317 Bay of Port au Prince from the House of the United States Minister, .... 451 Vicinity of Santiago, Tobacco Train 321 Market Square of Santiago . 323 Gold-washing (Oviedo), . . 328 Countrywoman and " Piccaninny," .... 456 A "Guajiro, . . . .341 Uncles and Mammies, . . 460 Scorpion, ..... 480 The Vega Real, . . .343 Gigantic Cactus, . . . 344 Centipede, ....

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