A Journey to Egypt and the Holy Land, in 1869-1870

Front matter

A JOURNEY TO EGYPT AND THE HOLY LAND, IN 1869-1870. A JOURNEY ro EGYPT AND THE HOLY LAND, IN 1869-1870. BY HENRY M. HARM AN, D. D., PROFESSOR OF ANCIENT LANGUAGES AND LITERATURE IN DICKINSON COLLEGE, CAKLISLE, PA "Semper ego auditor tantum?" PHILADELPHIA: J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO. 1873- Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1872, by J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO., In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. Lippincott's Press, Philadelphia. OF AS TO THE REV. JAMES A. McCAULEY, D.D., THE BALTIMORE ANNUAL CONFERENCE OF THE METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH, (AND NOW PRESIDENT OF DICKINSON COLLEGE,) A TOKEN OF THE HIGH APPRECIATION OF HIS CHRISTIAN CHAR ACTER, INTELLECTUAL CULTURE, MINISTERIAL AISILITY AND FIDELITY, AND OF AN UNINTERRUPTED FRIENDSHIP, BEGUN IN COLLEGE DAYS, THIS VOLUME IS INSCRIBED BY THE AUTHOR.

Preface

. In offering to the public a volume of travels extend ing over countries often visited and described, a few words of explanation may be necessary. For it may be asked, Why publish such a book ? Our answer is, To meet the wishes of numerous friends, and also to contribute something to the knowledge of the sacred and classical lands within a compass that may be easily read ; perhaps moved too by something of the spirit of Juvenal, " Shall I be forever a hearer only?"* I had for years cherished an intense desire to visit Europe, and especially Palestine, consecrated by the presence and labors of the Prophets, of Christ, and of his Apostles. Without visiting Europe and the Orient, I felt that my education was incomplete, — that there was a vacuum that must be filled up. Through the kindness of the Hon. J. A. J. Cres well, Postmaster-General, I procured letters from the Hon. Secretary of State to the Consul-General of Egypt, the Consul of Jerusalem, and our Minister at Constantinople, Hon. Edward Joy Morris. * Sat., Lib. i. PREFA CE.

VIII At London I purchased a reconnaissance compass, and at Rome a tape-line, to take measurements of the most important objects. I also kept a journal ; I have combined with personal narrative and a description of the most important places visited historical notices, accompanied, in many instances, with extracts from the ancient writers. In my description of Palestine and the region of Suez I have noticed especially whatever would illus trate Holy Scripture. I have furnished, I think, some good reasons for identifying Cana of Galilee with Kefr Kenna, five miles northeast of Nazareth, instead of locating it with Dr. Robinson, eleven miles north of Nazareth. At Athens I measured the Pnyx and Bema, and corrected the errors in Smith's Dictionaries. I have endeavored to give a faithful narrative, and in no case have I drawn upon the imagination for my facts.

The extracts from the ancient Greek writers are made from the text of the originals, except those from Josephus, in which for the most part I have followed Whiston's translation. I omitted to state, in giving the bearing of objects at Athens, that the magnetic variation in 1869-70 was 8 1/±° west at that city. PAGE '3 4 5 CONTENTS.

Chapter I

From New York to Liverpool. — Chester. — London. — Westminster Abbey. — The Tower. — British Museum. — City Road Chapel. — Wesley's Tomb. — Bunhill Cemetery. — Spurgeon. — Departure for Paris. — A Description of the French Capital. — Departure for Marseilles; its delightful Climate, and interesting Objects. — Toulon. — Nice. — Arrival in Spezzia. — Pisa; its Leaning Tower and Cathedral. — Leghorn. — Florence. — The Tower of Galileo; his Telescopes, etc. — Dante's House. — Journey to Rome

Chapter II

Arrival in Rome. — A Description of the Pantheon. — The Seven Hills of Rome. — The Colosseum. — The Arch of Titus. — The Forum.- — The Mamertine Prisons. — Cloaca Maxima. — The Wall and Mound of Servius Tullius. — St. John in Lateran. — Holy Stairs.— St. Peter's.— The Basilica of St. Paul.— A Visit to Tusculum. — Departure from Rome. — Arrival in Naples. — A Visit to Pompeii. — Ascent of Vesuvius. — Museum of Naples. — Embarkation for Alexandria. — Scylla and Charybdis. — Messina. — Mediterranean Sea

Chapter III

Arrival in Egypt. — Strange Sights in Alexandria. — Pompey's Pillar.- Cleopatra's Needle. — The Copts. — Pasha's Palace. — The History of Alexandria : its present Condition and Prospects. — Departure by Rail for Cairo. — The Branches of the Nile. — Land of Goshen. — Products of Egypt; its Irrigation. — First Sight of the Pyramids. — Arrival in Cairo. — A Visit to the Citadel and Mosque of Mohammed Ali. — To the Banker's. — The Narrow Streets of Cairo; its Donkeys. — A Visit to the Pyramids; a CONTENTS. X PAGE 68 Description of them.— The Sphinx. — A Visit to Heliopolis; a Description of the Ancient City. — A Visit to the Ruins of Mem phis. — Apis Cemetery. — Departure for the Red Sea ....

Chapter IV

Red Sea.—" Wilderness."— The Mirage.— A Visit to the " Wells of Moses." — Expedition to the Southern Extremity of Ghebel Attaka.— The Recession of the Red Sea. — The Passage of the Israelites. — A Critical Discussion of the Place of Passage. — Departure for Ismailia. — The Suez Canal. — Port Said. — Difficulty with a Frenchwoman. — From Port Said to Joppa. — First sight of Palestine. — Landing at Joppa. — A Description of Joppa. — Departure for Jerusalem. — Ramleh. — Incidents by the Way. — Arrival in the Holy City 102

Chapter V

A Visit to the Mosques of Omar and El-Aksah. — The Remains of Solomon's Temple. — Rachel's Sepulchre. — -Bethlehem. — Mount of Olives. — Bethany. — A Walk around Jerusalem. — The Upper and Lower Pools of Gihon. — En-rogel. — The Pool of Siloam. — A Visit to the Tombs of the Kings and Judges. — Departure for Hebron. — The Pools of Solomon. — Arrival in Hebron. — The Burial-Places of the Patriarchs. — From Hebron to Bethlehem. —Aqueduct from Solomon's Pools. — From Bethlehem through the Desert of Judea to Mar Saba. — From Mar Saba to the Dead Sea. — The Jordan. — New Jericho. — Old Jericho. — The Howling of the Jackals. — Return to Jerusalem. — Religious Services on Mount Zion. — The Garden of Gethsemane . . .123

Chapter VI

A Description of Jerusalem.— Its Situation.— Its Valleys.— Its surrounding Hills. — Its Ancient Walls. — Its Modern Gates. — A Description of the Modern City.— Church of the Holy Sepulchre not the true site of our Lord's Tomb. — Ancient History of Jerusalem. — Josephus's Description of the Temple. — The Capture of the City and Temple by Titus. — Christ's Prophecy of that Event. — The Subsequent History of the Holy City. — Its Capture by Godfrey of Bouillon, etc CONTENTS. XI

Chapter VII. Page

Departure for Nablus. — Scopus. — Bethel. — Groves of Fig-trees — Arrival in Sinjil. — An Unpleasant Night. — A Visit to Shiloh. — Arrival in Nablus. — Samaritan Worship. — A Visit to Jacob's Well. — Ascent of Mount Gerizim. — Interview with the High- Priest of the Samaritans; he says he expects a Messiah; his views on other subjects; he thinks that he alone of all men is right. — From Nablus to the Ruins of Samaria. — Jenin.—Moun tains of Gilboa, Zerin (Jezreel). — The Valley ol Jezreel. — The Great Plain of Esdraelon. — The Brook Kishon. — Arrival in Nazareth; the beauty of the town ; the magnificent scenery in its vicinity. — Mount Tabor. — Arrival at Tiberias 174

Chapter VIII

A Description of Tiberias and the Sea of Galilee. — Tiberias once famous as a School of Jewish learning : Mishna and Talmud of Jerusalem composed there. — From Tiberias to Nazareth. — Kefr Kenna the true " Cana of Galilee." — Departure from Nazareth. — Difficulty with a Donkey-driver. — Crossing of the Kishon. — Elijah's Sacrifice. — Arrival on Mount Carmel. — A Description of Palestine. — From Caipha to Beirut. — Damascus ; a Description of its Location, and History of the City. — From Damascus to Zebedany. — To Baalbec. — The Ruins of the Temples of the Sun. — The Great Stone in the Quarry. — From Baalbec to Stura. — Return to Beirut 202

Chapter IX

A Visit to the Sculptures at Dog River. — A Description of them. — Adventure in returning. — Departure for Constantinople. — The Steamer touches at Tripoli, Alexandretta, Mersina. — Passes near Rhodes, Cos, Patmos. — Arrival in Smyrna. — Description of Smyrna. — The Steamer passes near Lesbos. — Between Tenedos and the Plains of Troy. — The Entrance into the Hellespont. — Snowstorm. — Arrival in Constantinople. — Hon. Edward Joy Morris. — The Mosque of St. Sophia. — Dr. Long. — A Description of Constantinople. — A Trip up the Bosphorus. — The History us Constantinople. — Reflections on the Turkish Empire. — Stanley declares his intention to search for Dr. Livingstone .... CONTENTS. XII PAGE

Chapter X

From Constantinople to Syra. — Arrival in the Piræus, Athens. — Impressions made in entering it. — The Temple of Olympian Zeus. — Ilissus. — Stadium. — Lycabettus. — Pentelicus. — Plain of Marathon. — A Visit to Eleusis. — Acropolis. — The Parthenon. — Theatre of Bacchus. — Areopagus. — Paul's Preaching there. — The Bema and Pnyx. — The History of Athens. — Departure for Corfu. — The Isthmus of Corinth. — Incidents of the Voyage. — Arrival in Corfu. — From Corfu to Brindisi. — From Brindisi to Bologna. — Arrival in Venice. — Description of Venice and its History 268

CHAPTER XL

From Venice to Milan. — The Cathedral of Milan. — The Church of St. Ambrose. — The Last Supper, by Leonardo da Vinci. — Crossing the Alps. — Arrival in Geneva. — Lausanne. — Berne. — Basel. — Frankfort. — Dr. Hurst. — Visit to Eisenach. — Weimar. — Leipzig. — Halle. — A Description of Tholuck. — Berlin. — The Grave of Neander. — Potsdam. — Dresden. — Intelligence of the Death of Dr. McClintock. — Heidelberg. — Voyage on the Rhine from Mayence to Cologne. — A Visit to Brussels and Antwerp. — Arrival in England. — A Visit to Scotland. — From Liverpool to New York AND THE HOLY LAND.

Chapter I

From New York to Liverpool. — Chester. — London. — Westminster Abbey. — The Tower. — British Museum. — City Road Chapel. — Wesley's Tomb. — Bunhill Cemetery. — Spurgeon. — Departure for Paris. — A Description of the French Capital. — Departure for Marseilles; its delightful Climate, and interesting Objects. — Toulon. — Nice. — Arrival in Spezzia. — Pisa; its Leaning Tower and Cathedral. — Leghorn. — Florence. — The Tower of Galileo ; his Telescopes, etc. — Dante's House. — Journey to Rome. It was on the afternoon of Monday, October 4, 1 869, that I took leave of my mother in Anne Arundel County, Maryland, for New York, there to embark for Europe. I expected to reach the city at six o'clock, next morning; but on account of a freshet that had occurred, I did not arrive until after two o'clock p.m., which frustrated some of my arrangements.

In the afternoon I made a visit to Drew Theological Seminary, to see Dr. McClintock, and to obtain from him some letters of introduction to gentlemen in Europe. I was sorry to find that he was necessarily away from home, but he had kindly left me several letters of in troduction. (13) The following day, Wednesday, October 6, at half past three o'clock p.m., I left New York in the steamship Nebraska, 3392 tons burden, of the Williams & Guion line, commanded by Captain Guard. We soon lost sight of New York with its crowded shipping, and passed beyond the Hook into the wide Atlantic. Shortly after dark, the pilot with three ladies left the ship. The sky was perfectly clear. The moon, about three days old, and Venus, were in the western sky, and everything wore a delightful aspect. We had an English Episcopal clergyman aboard, who had spent some weeks in the United States, and had formed rather a poor opinion of the Americans from what he had seen in New York and Chicago.

I told him these cities do not furnish a fair specimen of American morals. Some New York sharpers had at tempted a confidence game upon him when the ship was about to start. The profanity of the Americans especially shocked him. October 7. The day was clear and calm. At IO a.m. the temperature of the open air was 550, water 580. At 2 p.m., water 58°, air 55 y2°. At 5 p.m., water 6o°, air 50}^ °. Oct. 8. The day was again clear and calm. Passed several vessels; among them, the Idaho. At 5.45 a.m., water 65 °, air 560. 1 p.m., water 6o°, air 560. Clouds in the horizon prevented me from seeing the sunrise, but I saw it set in a horizon perfectly clear, and what a beautiful sight it was ! Oct. 9. Saw a beautiful sunrise this morning. The day was clear and calm. At sunrise, air 560, water 560. At noon, air 66°, water 580.

To-day I made the acquaintance of Prof. Tyler, of Amherst, and his wife, and of Mr. Hewitt ; also that of Mr. Neill, United States Consul in Dublin. Oct. 10. Sunday. The day was clear till noon, when it became cloudy, and continued so for the rest of the day. In the morning, a minister of the English Church, whom I have already introduced, read the Episcopal service, and preached from Matt. xi. 28 a good and plain sermon. Oct. ir. To-day I was quite sea-sick in my berth, and missed the sight of a fine school of forty or fifty whales. Last evening we got over the Banks of New foundland, having crossed the middle, where the width is two hundred and eighty miles. The weather was fine to-day. At 8 a.m., air 450, water 46^°. At 4 p.m., air 500, water 460. Oct. 12. At 10 a.m., air $0%°, water 480.

To-day I was but little sick. Oct. 13. Yesterday, the sun set clear, but to-day it has been cloudy, and the wind from the northeast. Passed a steamer and a sailing vessel. Oct. 14. To-day it has been cloudy. Saw no vessel. At 4 p.m., air $ol/z°, water 540. Oct. 18. Friday last ( 15th) we had a favorable wind from the northeast. At 11 A.M., air 53^°, water 56°. On Friday night we experienced a gale, which carried off the foretop sail. Next day the sea was high and rough : the ship rolled greatly. The spectacle of the raging sea and the numerous whitecaps was sublime. We could scarcely call it, with Æschylus, the "num berless smiles of ocean." Saturday night was one of the most unpleasant nights that I ever spent. The ship rolled from side to side, and the noise of the machinery, and the clattering of the various articles in the ship, made it impossible to sleep.

At dinner, we had the sliding of the plates backwards and forwards, the swinging of the castors, the overturning of the sauce, the witty remarks and the laughter of the passengers. On Sunday the sea became calmer, and the wind still more favorable. At about half-past ten, the minister before named read the Episcopal service and a written sermon. The ladies were generally sick from the roughness of the sea. Monday morning I arose about sunrise, and saw not far ahead Fast Net light-house, on a rock about seven miles from the land, and in the distance the Irish coast. Soon after Cape Clear was pointed out to me, and also Mizzen Head. The Irish coast is high, bold, and rocky, and abounds in excellent harbors. The whole of the forenoon we coasted along within a half-mile or a mile of Ireland, and had several squalls of rain.

Later in the day the rocks disappeared, and we saw the sloping lands laid out in rectangular farms, separated by stone fences or green hedges. What especially attracted our attention was the greenness of Ireland, its splendid grass. Rightly has the island been called " green Erin." About noon we reached the harbor of Queens town. This is a small, recent town, situated on a good harbor, about seven miles south of Cork. Here we landed about thirty steerage passengers, and here Mr. Neill left us for Dublin. Numerous gulls followed our ship. The passengers seemed delighted with the sight of land, and even those who lived on the sea rejoiced to see the land, their native element. At 9% a.m. the water was 52°, and at 10^2 a.m. the air was 510. In the night we encountered, at the entrance of St. George's Channel and in the Irish Sea, a heavy gale.

The ship made but little progress, labored, toiled, and pitched, making the night a most unpleasant and sleep less one. In the morning (Tuesday) the gale still continued, and the coal was growing short, and navigation be coming dangerous. It was not very soothing to hear the captain cry out to a subordinate officer, when we were not far from the rocks, "Are you going ashore?" About noon, to escape the dangers of the gale and to take in coal, we put into Holy Head Cove, behind the Breakwater, which relieved our apprehensions. At 1.40 next morning (Wednesday) we left the Cove, our ship moving off very pleasantly, and we had a fine passage to Liverpool, which we reached before ten o'clock a.m., Wednesday, October 20. An hour or two later we entered the dock. We had been detained at the bar of the Mersey River about half an hour, till the tide rose, which here reaches the height of thirty or thirty-two feet above low-water mark.

It was the fourteenth day since we left New York. Life upon the sea after a few days becomes very monotonous. The provisions grow stale, and the nausea produced by the sea takes away the appetite. One turns sick at the sight of so much grease. We had breakfast about half-past eight o'clock, lunch at eleven o'clock a.m., dinner at four o'clock, and tea about eight o'clock p.m., during the voyage. We were glad to get fresh provisions from the land. The docks of Liverpool arc most magnificent, being built of granite. Through entrances in these stone piers ships pass at high water into the places cut for them. The gates are then shut down to prevent the 2* egress of the water. These docks extend along the Mersey for miles. In coming up the Irish Sea to Liverpool, we had in view the mountains of Wales.

The summits of a part of them were covered with snow. On landing, our baggage was examined by the custom-house officers. We tarried in Liverpool a few hours, and then left for Chester. One thing in Liver pool especially attracted my attention, the number of liquor stores. We reached Chester by rail, a little before night, and stopped at the Grosvenor Hotel, where we had excellent accommodations. The day had been drizzly : characteristic of England. The town of Chester was colonized by the Romans, a.d. 61 ; they surrounded it with a wall, some portions of which are remaining, on which the present wall is built. The wall is principally of red sandstone, is about two miles in circumference, and in some places fifteen or twenty feet high. This wall affords a very pleasant walk, and, on the morning after our arrival, Prof. Tyler and his wife and myself took a walk around the top of the whole length of the wall before breakfast.

A considerable portion of the town now stands outside of the wall. The river Dee flows around the south and the west of the town ; it is very likely that the Romans selected this site to have the river both as a defense and a supply of water. In the southwest corner of the town, within the wall, is a large grass-plot, where it is said the Roman soldiers used to drill. The Roman garrison was withdrawn a.d. 476. The name of the town is derived from castra, a camp. Numerous Roman remains, including coins, have been found in the city. We were especially interested in some rows of curious old buildings, the lower parts of which were built by Romans or Saxons. Here there is a very old cathedral which contains some curiosities ; among others, a Latin MS. of the Bible, seven hun dred and fifty years old, and a tattered banner, borne by a British regiment at the battle of Bunker Hill.

After breakfast, we took a carriage for Eaton Hall, the residence of the Marquis of Westminster. The hall itself was closed, the marquis being away at another country-seat. We obtained a pass from the agent of the marquis to visit the grounds. The Hall is not far from the river Dee, to which the yard east of the building extends. We passed over these grounds, and beheld, with in describable delight, gardens of fruit and ornamental trees, including the cedar of Lebanon, collected from the four quarters of the world ; hot-houses, in which were growing hixuriantly pineapples, grapes, and flowers, — all of which beggar description. The estate contains sixty-four square miles, — too much land for one man. The estate has a deer park, in which were four or five hundred of these branching horned animals, of which some were white.

We saw a large number of them, and heard the loud clash of their horns while butting each other in battle. We saw also pheasants and red squirrels. The fish-ponds we did not visit. Our coach driver gave us some specimens of strong English. Asking him the name of a tree, he replied, "a hoke" (an oak), and inquiring about the name of another, he answered, " a hash" (ash). We observed on the estate a remnant of paganism, in the form of a stone altar with the Latin inscription : Fontibus et Nymphis, XX. Leg. " To the Fountains and Nymphs, by the 20th Legion." We returned to Chester from this magnificent estate, one of the most splendid in England, and took cars for London, which we reached about seven o'clock p.m. We passed through Shrewsbury, Warwick, and Oxford. We had a fine view of a part of Wales on the right.

The whole country is a well-cultivated garden ; a great deal of land is set in grass, beets, and turnips ; we saw no waste land. We observed great numbers of sheep, and a considerable number of cattle. The beef and mutton of England are most excellent. In the vicinity of Birmingham we saw many coal mines, and for miles manufacturing establishments, which gave a hazy appearance to the atmosphere. My first day in London was spent in Trafalgar Square, — where are monuments to Lord Nelson, George IV., Napier, and Havelock, — at Westminster Abbey, the queen's stables, and at Quaritch's famous book-store. Westminster Abbey, .with its tombs of kings, philosophers, poets, and divines, is deeply in teresting. The queen's stables contained between seventy and eighty horses, all bays, with the exception of seven cream-colored ones, six of which are har nessed to the splendid state-carriage of Queen Victoria to carry her majesty to Parliament.

Lord Nelson's monument, in Trafalgar Square, is a lofty, fluted column, on the top of which is a statue of Nelson ; at each corner of the square base on which the monument stands is a bronze lion about twenty one feet long and seven feet high, in a recumbent posture. In this square stands also a bronze statue of Sir H. Havelock, with the inscription : To Major-General Sir Henry Havelock, K.C.B., And his brave companions in arms, during the campaign in India, 1857. " Soldiers! Your labors, your privations, your sufferings, and your valor, will not be forgotten by a grateful country. H. Havelock." A good-looking, noble, regular face, whiskered, chin bare. His left hand rests upon the hilt of his sword. Saturday I visited the British Houses of Parliament. They contain some fine statuary of the kings and queens of England, also two magnificent paintings of the death of Lord Nelson, and the battle of Waterloo.

From the Parliament Houses I took boat to the Tower of London. Here I was in the room in which Raleigh slept. It has not a single window. The most inter esting object in the Tower is the collection of armor worn by the knights of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Figures of men in this armor, on horses, are arrayed in a long row. Some of the walls of the Tower are fourteen feet thick. The White Tower was built about eight hundred years ago, by William the Conqueror. A guide pointed out to us the various objects of interest. Leaving the Tower, I visited St. Paul's Cathedral, a most magnificent building, the lower part of which is occupied principally with statues of distinguished men. Among these, I observed that of Dr. Samuel Johnson, and also that of Henry Hallam, a most impressive figure of a great man.

Sunday I went to the City Road Chapel, famous in the history of Methodism, and in which Mr. Wesley often preached. The church is about a hundred feet long, by fifty-six, built with galleries. It is pewed, but has no organ. The pulpit is simply a high box, standing out some distance from the wall. Here I heard an excellent sermon on faith. After service, I went into the cemetery in the rear of the church, which contains the remains of John Wesley, over which is erected a plain monument (of granite, I think) to Wesley, with the following inscription : To the Memory of The Venerable John Wesley, A.M., Late Fellow of Lincoln College, Oxford. This Great Light arose (by the singular Providence of God) to enlighten these nations, and to revive, enforce, and defend the pure Apostolical Doctrines and Practices of the Primitive Church : Which he continued to do both by his writings and his labors for more than Half a Century : And, to his inexpressi ble joy, not only beheld their influence extending, and their efficacy witnessed in the hearts and lives of Many Thousands, As well in the Western World as in these Kingdoms, But also, far above any human power or expectation, lived to see Provision made by the singular grace of God for their Continuance and Establishment, To the Joy of suture Generations.

Reader, if thou art constrained to bless the In strument, Give God the Glory. After having languished a few days, He at length finished His course and His life together, Gloriously triumphing over Death, March 2d, An. Dom. 1791, in the eighty-eighth year of his age. It is stated on the monument that it was erected a.d. 1 79 1, but re-edified and enlarged in 1840, during the Centenary of Methodism. In this vault are also the remains of Mrs. Martha Hall, Wesley's sister, who died July 19, 1791, aged eighty-five. Four other preachers are interred in the same vault. Adam Clarke, his wife, and eldest son, John Wesley Clarke, are buried in a vault next to that of Wesley. Opposite the City Road Chapel is Bunhill Cemetery. Here lie the remains of John Bunyan, Isaac Watts, the mother of John Wesley, Daniel De Foe (the author of Robinson Crusoe), and others.

On one side of Bunyan's monument, Christian is represented with a burden on his back ; on the other side, he is seen looking at the cross. Sunday night I went over Waterloo Bridge to South London, to hear the great preacher, Spurgcon. I obtained an excellent seat in the first gallery, not far from the speaker. His church, holding about seven thousand, was crowded to overflowing. He is a plain, practical, direct, forcible, and evangelical preacher. He does not content himself with glittering generalities, but enters into particulars. I understand his member ship numbers four thousand. He has certainly done a great work. He is a portly, well-set, chunky man. The church is of an elliptical form, very high, with three or four galleries, extending all the way round, arranged one above the other.

Such a congregation as we had that night I never before saw assembled within-doors. Next day I visited the British Museum ; no admis sion fee was required. Here is the most wonderful collection of antiquities, geological remains, books, etc., to be found in the world. I saw the famous Alexandrian MS. of the Bible, nearly fourteen hundred years old ; a copy of the Peshito-Syriac Testament, bearing date a.d. 468. The central library building contains about eight hundred thousand volumes.

Among the objects that especially attracted my attention in the Museum was a giraffe (lifeless), the top of whose head reached a height of about twenty feet from the floor; an ostrich, the top of whose back reached a height of five feet; the legs of a dinornis, four or five feet long ; the remains of an ichthyosaurus, about twenty-seven feet long ; the skeleton of a gigan tic Irish deer, about seven feet high ; the skeleton of a megatherium, about twenty feet long, and seven feet high, from South America ; tusks of a fossil elephant, about eight feet long; a skeleton of the mastodon Ohioticus, twenty-five feet long to the end of his horns ; the Guadaloupe skeleton of a human being imbedded in lime; a representation of the conquest of Rameses II. over the Ethiopians (the Ethiopians are painted black; he drives his chariot over them, aiming at them an arrow from a drawn bow) ; two winged bulls, with human heads, from Khorsabad, eighteen feet long, three and a half feet wide, and about twelve feet high ; two winged human-headed lions of smaller size; a lion covered with arrow-headed writing ; Nebo, covered with the same writing ; Esar haddon ; the head of Rameses II., of enormous size ; Roman amphoræ or jars, of stone apparently, holding from five to eight gallons each ; and bronze mirrors of the ancient Egyptians.