Cuba with pen and pencil

Preface

TO THE ENGLISH EDITION. :o: This volume was first presented to the American public as a popular and truthful account of life and manners in the beautiful island of Cuba, no pretensions being made as to its literary merit. Notwithstanding some shortcomings in this latter respect, its success in America has been great, several thousands of copies having been sold ; while the limited edition sent to England was so rapidly disposed of, that the present publishers have felt induced to bring out this edition. Perhaps some slight changes might have been made with advantage in the present edition, but the Author, contented with the verdict of the Press and the Public, has preferred to leave the Work unaltered, since, in all material points, the island is in pretty much the same condition as when the volume was first published ; and, so -far as the " Revolution " is concerned, "the end" is not yet, the struggle being confined, as he described it would be, to the eastern part of the island, where nature offers so many advantages to the cause of the " patriots."

Since, however, the following pages were written, the Author has passed some time in Europe, and he can only t PftEFACE TO THE ENGLISH EDITION. say to those familiar with the scenes, habits, and climate of Europe,; — try a voyage to the New World, and especially a winter's trip to Cuba and the other West India Islands, particularly if the improvement of health is a desired object. It is in no boastful spirit that the Author claims that the scenery of America cannot be rivalled by any in Europe ; and in recommending the inhabitants of the Old to pay a visit to the New World, he feels that he is quite safe in trusting to the personal experience of any traveller who may venture so far to confirm his statements. Baden-Baden, May 1st, 1873.

PREFACE.

. Some of the chapters in this book were written in Cuba, amidst the beautiful scenes they describe, which will account to the reader K ?li^ w^at may appear .gX^pito him as too glowing jSf|i f descriptions. [ y As for the rest, the ) I author feels he owes a debt of gratitude to at least the climate of Cuba. The fall of the year in which our great war closed found the writer with a constitution im paired by disease engendered during his service in the army; and ordered by his physician to a southern climate. Almost in different where he went, but having pleasant memories of a previous visit to Cuba, he went there.

PREFACE.

. From the moment he landed, he gained new life, — such was the wonderful effect of that delicious climate. Like many others, he was " killing time " in Havana, supposing, from the lack of information and of books, there was nothing specially interesting outside of Havana, when for tunately he came across a little volume in Spanish, now out of print, called " Manual of the Island of Cuba." It is safe to say that had the author not found that book these pages would never have been written ; but with this volume as his guide and teacher as to what was to be seen in the whole Island of Cuba, he spent his time during his stay on the island wandering from place to place, studying the people and their habits, and picking up, where possible, views and illustrations ; or, where these were not to be had, resort ing to his own pencil or the assistance of the photographer.

The liberality of the publishers of this volume enables the author, therefore, to place before his readers the best of these illustrations ; and believing that as " actions speak louder than words," so do cuts tell more than descriptions, he, wherever possible, permits the illustration to tell the story. " The general reader," says Livy, " cares little for the antiquities of a people." With this in view, the author has given only sufficient of the general history as may satisfy the ma jority of readers ; but for the benefit of the more profound student of Spanish colonial history, he appends a list of valuable works pertaining to the Island of Cuba, of most of which he has made free use. To Don. Jose Garcia, de Arboleya, author of " The Manual of the Island," the reader is indebted, as is the author, for the principal facts in this volume.

In concluding these few words of preface, the author cannot do better than to use the words of an old writer * in saying : "An useful work needs no indelicate recommendation, nor can a bad one be supported by it, although a sonorous patron might happen to help the sale. * Latham's Essay on Tobacco. London : 1 800.

PREFACE.

. V Such as I have I give unto the world, with a heart con scious of upright intentions ; and I readily confess I am more disposed to do them (the Cubans) real service than to flatter. If the reader find me imperfect, it will be some little apol ogy that I am but a man." Germantown, September i, 1870. List of Works pertaining to Cuba used or quoted in -this volume. Prescott's History of Mexico. The Works of Humboldt and Bonpland. Paris : 1808-9. Irving' s Life and Voyages of Columbus. Llave del Nuevo-Mundo. Por Arrate. 1 tomo. Historia Economico-Politica de la Isla de Cuba. Por Lasagra. I tomo. Historia Fisica, Politica y Natural de la Isle de Cuba. Por Lasagra. Nine large volumes, en folio. Con preciosos laminas iluminadas. Descrip- Descripcion y vista de los Principales Ingenios de esta Isla. i tomo folio marquilla, con hermosas litografias iluminadas.

Dr. Wurdiman's Travels in Cuba. May's Almanaque Mercantil para el ano 1870. Published in Havana. Guitera Historia de la Isla de Cuba. Dos tomos. New York. The best work for the general reader published. Nuevos Elementos de Geografia e Historia de la Isla de Cuba. Por D. Jose Maria de la Torre. Havana: 1863. Compendio de la Historia de Cuba. Por Emilio Blanchet. Matanzas : 1866. El Cocinero Cubano. Por J. P. Legran. Havana : 1864. Fairholt's Tobacco and Tobacco Pipes. London. LIST OF FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. THE FALLS OF THE ROSARIO, frontispiece. HAVANA OPPOSITE page 31 AVENUE OF PALMS " 139 MILITARY PROMENADE, .......... " " 175 GOVERNOR'S PALACE " "180 INSIDE OF THE TACON THEATRE, " "186 THE BULL RING, " "204 MATANZAS " "270 VALLEY OF THE YUMURRI " "292 LOS MOLINOS, " "295 CARDENAS " "317 INGENIO FLOR DE CUBA . . .' " "318 CIENFUEGOS ».

" "322 INGENIO CAROLINA " "402 TRINIDAD, .«...., " "409 SANTIAGO DE CUBA . " " *33 PLAIN OF GUANTANAMO, " " (65 EL JAGUEY, " "469 ORANGERIES " "473 PUERTO PRINCIPE, •■ " s„ VI

Chapter I

Hints to Travelers. Pleasures of a trip to Cuba — General arrangements for — Limited traveling of the Cubans — Arrangement of money matters — Bills of exchange — Taking American silver — Letters of introduction-1— Clothing necessary while on the island — Climate in winter — Invalid travelers — The steamers to go in — Time for going — Table of Cuban moneys — Passports — Letters, t .... 28

Chapter II

En Route. At sea, off the Florida coast — The Turk and the Koran — Champagne and sea-sickness — Lovely climate of she Gulf Stream — The nautilus — Porpoises — Tropical moonlight nights — Phosphorescent waters — Cuba from the state-room — Arrive off Havana — The Morro Castle — Entrance to the bay — La Punta — Memories of Irving and Prescott — Striking appearance of the city of Havana — Cortina de Valdes — Cabafias Fort — Casa Blanca — Shipping — Wharves — Men-of-war — Regla and the sugar storehouses — At anchor — Customs officers — About passports — Hotel runners — Harbor boats — Regulations and tariff of charges of same — A race for shore — Custom-house officers and examination of baggage — Free to walk through the streets — Reflections upon Havana — First impressions — La Dominica — Something to drink — Arrival at hotel, . 29 (vn) CONTENTS. VIII

Chapter III

Hotel Life in Havana. Coffee with milk, or coffee without? — Difference between American and Cuban hotels — Easy way of taking meals — Hotel Telegrafo — Hotel Santa Isabel — Hotel de la Inglaterra — Hotel de Europa — Some funny things about hotels and houses — A city without a chimney and " modern conveniences ' ' — Private boarding-houses — Restaurants — Bachelor life in Havana — Club tables at French restaurants — Convenience to sea-bathing — Hotel San Felipe — Lovely views — Moonlight nights on the house' tops — Guitar-playing and singing, 39

Chapter IV

Bathing and Riding in Havana. Pleasures of a bath after sea-sickness — Baths, warm or cold — Changing clothing — Some habits peculiar to Cuban women — Good bath-houses — Marble tubs, etc. — Baths at hotels — Campos Eliseos, or Elysian fields sea-bathing — Bath-tubs hollowed out of solid rock — Sea-bathing in a norther — Effects of the water — The bathing season of the Cubans — Cuban ladies at the sea-baths — Happy faculty of Cuban negroes' and horses for sleep — Riding in Havana — The "Volantes" — Their drivers — The "Victoria" — Livery-stable carriages — Private equipages — Pleasures of volante riding — Tariff of charges — Don't fight with hackmen, . . 49

Chapter V

Havana, Past and Present. Bell-ringing — Sleep prevented — Early rising — Coffee and chocolate on rising — Pleasantness of Cuban morning air — Street wandering — Ricla street — Its shops of jewelry, pictures, etc.— Immense candles — Mercaderes street — Obispo street— The gates and old walls Early history of Havana — Tacon and his administration — Story of Tacon andthe cigar girl — Havana to-day —O'Reilly street — Living in rooms over warehouses — Bazaar-like appearance of streets, 6!

Chapter VI

Markets of Havana. How food is supplied to Havana's various markets — The ■'Cristina" market — Colonnades and shops — Fruits and vegetables — Market people, negroes, and countrymen — Trying the Cuban fruits— Deliciousness of same — The green cocoa— Drinking its milk, and awkward results — Chattering of the venders — Their kindness to strangers — The Pescaderia or fish-market — Where the fish come from — The kinds of fish— The . manati or sea-horse - Paseo de Valdez - Lazy negroes - Route to Chorrera and how to go fishing — Funnv sight at La Punta in a norther — Market " Del Vapor " - Sale of meats - The " Guajiro " and " Malojero " - Negro peculi- CONTENTS. IX

Chapter VII

Inside the Walls. Systematic mode of sight-seeing — Best time in the morning— La Punta — Entering the city by the old gate, Puerta de la Punta — The boat-landing — Maestranza or headquarters of the artillery — Old captured guns — A stroll through the "Cortina de Valdez " —Trophies — Marble from the Isle of Pines — Music from the forts — The old castle and barracks of " La Fuerza " — Palace of the Captain-General — " Stunning sentries " "El Templete," where mass was first celebrated — The old church and square of San Francisco — "El Muelle," or merchants' exchange — Customs of the merchants — "El Correo," or post-office — About letters — The commandant of marine — Marine wharf— State barge — Arsenal — Funny garden — Flamingoes—View of sugar stores — Paseo de Paula — De Roncali — Ferry-boats to Regla — Bay by moonlight — Slaughter of fillibusters — Noble conduct of Consul Crawford — Navy-yard — The old gates and walls, their antiquity and history, og

Chapter VIII

The Churches of Havana. "Nearer the church farther from God" — The Cuban religion — Santo Angel — San Augustin— Santa Clara — Santa Catalina —"" Belen " La Mer*ced — The priesthood — Funny hats and appearance — Pretty women at church — Handsome rugs and liveried servants — Funny notices on church doors — Authentic painting of the origin of La Merced — Paintings and architecture — The cathedral — Its odd appearance — Grand interior — Tomb of Columbus — Short account of his death and burial — Palm oil in church — Locked in — Old men and women — Oddities, . . 117

Chapter IX

Outside the Walls. The old fort "La Punta" — The "Carcel" or royal dungeon — Execution of Lopez — The Prado — Fountains, avenues, and buildings — Cuban gymnasts — Park of Isabel — Fine cast's and buildings — The Tacon Theatre — Railroad station of Villa Nueva — Paseo Ysabel — Superb fountain of India — Palace of the Aldamas — Campo de Marte — Calzada Principe and Paseo Tacon — Magnificence of the botanical gardens and the Captain-General's country seat — Avenues of Palms — Luxuriant vegetation — Lovers' walk in arbor of roses — The "Cerro" drive — Cuban architecture — Easy life — Bishop's garden — Immense cactus — Avenue of mango trees — Kindness of Cubans to strangers — Calzada Galiano, ." . . . CONTENTS. X

Chapter X

Havana Factories, La Honradez, Shops, etc. The tobacco factory of La Honradez — Enterprise and extent of same — Politeness of owners — Variety of mechanical appliances — Cigarette making — Chinese labor and laborers — Their wonderful skillfulness — Funny appearance — Quantity of cigarettes made —Thorough system of the establishments — Autograph hunters -^-W. H. Seward's commentary in the register — Souvenir of the proprietors — How to roll a cigarette — Silver tongs — Cigarette smoking of Cuban ladies — Other stores and shops in Havana — Mode of shopping — Fans — Dress goods — Prices, etc '45

Chapter XI

Street Sights. Novelty of Havana streets — Their narrowness — Awnings — Stores opening on the street — Funny names — Busy appearance at certain times — Obispo street — Small donkeys and big saddles — The chicken-seller — The milkman — The countryman — Ugly negro women — The dulce-seller — Simplicity of children's clothing — The Chinese crockeryman — Lottery tickets — Account of the government lottery — Evil results — The baker, etc., 159

Chapter XII

Havana by Night. The Cuban evening — Cuban women, their splended hair and grand toilettes — The drive on the Paseo — Odorousness and perfume of flowers and plants — The quitrin and its three occupants — Etiquette of riding — The cafes by night — The watchmen — "Standing the beer" — Making a night of it — Social life in Cuban homes — Retreta at the Plaza de Armas — Description of, etc. — Handsome women and their ways — Paseo de Valdez by moonlight — A sail on the bay, and the phosphorescent light — The bay by moonlight — Caf<5 visiting — The Tacon Theatre at night — The Park of Ysabel — The Paseo by moonlight, 174

Chapter XIII

Sunday Amusements. Is there a Sunday in Cuba? — Sunday a Fourth of » July ; a great day for bull-fights, cock-fights, etc. — " Seeing things " — A visit to the cock-pit — Description of — The people — Kinds of chickens — Pandemonium broke loose — African negroes, their peculiarities and customs Visit to their council -chamber — Their dances — Masked balls — A carnival night Public women, etc., I(,0 CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XIV

The Plaza de Toros. Bull-fights — Reflections— The bull-ring— Difference of seats — Official recognition — The opening procession — The key-bearer — Costumes — The picadores — The banderilleros — The "espada,"or swordsman — Horses and their equipments — The music — Commencement of the play, and lively entrance of the bull — Enraging the bull — " Double quicking ' ' — Pluck of the bulls and cruelty of their tormentors — Shouts and cries — Death of the bull Meanness of horses— " Musica, musica" — Fireworks on the bull — Skillfulness of the swordsmen — Gallant bulls — Dragging out the carcass — Number of horses killed — Disposition of the dead bull — "Good results from evil doings flow " — Lovely evening view, 201

Chapter XV

All About Cigars. First account of cigars — History of their monopoly — Troubles with planters — The royal manufactory — Cigar factories — Good and bad cigars — Partagas — Uppmanns — Cabanas factory — Description of — Process of cigar-making — Some curious facts — Signification of names and sizes — Where the cigars go — Prices of some — How to order cigars — Handsome factories — La Victoria — Customs of the Cubans in smoking — Etiquette of the cigar 212

Chapter XVI

A Short Chapter on Drinks. Water supply of Havana — General drinks of the Cubans — Coffee — Vino Catalan — Refrescos — Lemonade — Panales — Orangeade — Barley-water — Grape-juice — Almond milk — Country drinks — British beer — Fonda y posada — Absence of drunkenness — Splendid chocolate — The " molinillo " — Recipe for making Spanish chocolate — Ice and how they make it — Cool water — The Estelladora — Cuban cafe's — Cuban living and customs, . 226

Chapter XVII

Forts and Soldiers. Havana a military city — Its fortifications — The Morro Castle — Description of — The Cabanas Fort — The Casa Blanca — Number Four — The Castle of Atares — La Punta — Castillo del Principe — Walls, etc — The soldiers and their uniforms — Sentries challenging, . . . 235

Chapter XVIII

Government and Administration of Cuba and Havana. Division of the island into departments — Jurisdiction — The Church and State — Varieties of officials — How appointed — Severe laws — Freedom of the press — Orders of nobility — The lack of freedom, CONTENTS. XII

Chapter XIX

The Suburbs of Havana. Beautiful surroundings — Railroad to Marianao— Funny brakemen — Comfortable cars — Puentes Grandes — The nail factory — Marianao — Pretty village — Curious fruits — Mineral springs — The watercarrier— Bridge architecture— Pretty balconies — Country gardens — Jesus del Monte — Regla and the sugar warehouses — Guanabacoa — The mineral baths — Shrines — Old church of Potosi — Curious burying ground — Benefit of Cuban mineral waters — Other suburbs 259

Chapter XX

v Matanzas. Routes — Regulations of railroads — Cuban baggage —Hotels in Matanzas— The Leon de Oro— Rooms — Servants — "Chinois" — Cuban kitchens— Cookery and bill of fare — Jose — Hotel life — Accommodating a friend — The force of habit — "Give me a drink," .... 270

Chapter XXI

Matanzas Sight-seeing. Early history — Description of the town — Oddities of buildings — Street architecture — Calzada Esteban — Ride out to the caves of Bellamar — Description of — Mammoth cave of Kentucky compared — Valley of Yumurri — Superb scenery — Sugar Estate — Give us thy blessing, master — Abra de Yumurri — Los Molinos — Paseo — Retreta at the Plaza — Eating ices — Ojo de Agua, 283

Chapter XXII

Carnival in Matanzas. Liceos and clubs — Ball of the Pinata — The ball-room — Lovely women — Diffident men — Stage performances — Cuban belles and toilettes — Attractions of the ladies — An unknown — The dancing — The Cuban dance, "danza criolla" — Other dances — The Pinata — Intense heat — Seeking the air — Carnival scene in the Plaza — Midnight ball at the theatre — "Loud" dances — Dangerous habits, ...... 297

Chapter XXIII

The Vicinity of Matanzas, Madruga, etc. Cuban saddles — Visiting sugar estates near Matanzas — Kindness of the managers — Ingenio Concepcion — Steam ploughing — Confiscation of property — The Cuban Saratoga — Madruga Springs — Routes there, and appearance — Beautiful views — The Plaza and a country funeral — Funerals of the wealthy — Lovely ride, via Guines, to Havana — View from the hill of Paradise — Limonar CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter XXIV

Cardenas, Sagua, and Villa Clara. Few inducements to go — Prayers for souls in Purgatory — Route — Cardenas — History, business, and appearance — Route to Sagua — Description of Sagua — Rout to Villa Clara — Description of — Finest sugar place — Flor de Cuba — Description of — Route to Cien-,- fuegos — Description of — Children speaking English — Corkscrewing a breakfast — Picking chickens — Hotels — Route to Havana 317

Chapter XXV

Vuelta Abajo, Guanajay. Description of the Vuelta Abajo — Route there — Guanajay — Baggage smashing — Cuban inns — Tobacco culture — Beautiful coffee places — Negro huts — The "platano" — San Antonio de los Banos — Mode of volante riding in the country — Palm trees, their varieties and uses in Cuba, 327

Chapter XXVI

Life on a Sugar Estate. Bargaining for horses — Our guide — The journey by night — Tropic storm — Sugar a la Cubano — Mills at night — Rough riding — A new history of Columbus — "I am an American" — Haven of rest — Hospitable reception — Cuban planters — Country houses — Life in — Peculiarities — Easy life — Sea-baths in the morning — Lovely scenes — Our daily life — Smelling sugar — A holiday with the mayoral — A burly rider — Lovely views — Storming a housekeeper — Valla de las Delicias — Yngenio San Martin — Home to dinner and evening entertainments — Guarapo punch, . 337

Chapter XXVII

Sugar-making. Varieties and history of the Cuban cane — An ingenio, and what it is — The people on it — The buildings — The grinding-mill — Purging house — Drying house — Packing sugar — The barracoon — The mayoral — The hands — Planting the cane — Cutting the cane — Hauling the cane — Feeding and crushing the cane — Making sugar — Improved processes — Merrick & Sons, Philadelphia — Engineers 351

Chapter XXVIII

V Baths of San Diego. Route to — Universal testimony of benefits thereof— Their wonderful history — The wonderful cures — Full description of— Hotels and hotel life — Cuban etiquette and fashion — How to enjoy the baths — Beautiful scenes in the vicinity — Curious caverns and arches — Good gunning — Cock fighting — The heart of the tobacco region— A pleasant way of returning to Havana, CONTENTS. XIV

Chapter XXIX

A Trip to the Isle of Pines. Pleasant journey there — Wonderful color and clearness of water — Narrow channel and avenue at landing — First impressions of Santa Fe and its Plaza — Good appearance of hotel — Our room — Only a spider — A surprise party — Exciting encounter — Description of the baths and waters — Benefits of — Wonderful cures — Cheap billiards — A pic-nic to the Crystal Hills — Enjoying a breakfast — Superb view — Pirates — Visiting a country house — Easy way of receiving guests — A pine-apple farm — A nice pet — Big alligators — Leaving the island — Baggage by express, . . 382

Chapter XXX

The South Coast to Trinidad. Batabano — Steamboat traveling — Pleasant people — Clearness and depth of the sea — Gambling — Cienfuegos bay — The town — Fine plantations — The Ingenio Carolina of William H. Stewart, Philadelphia — Complimentary to an American — Tennyson's lines — Smoking by Cuban ladies — Trinidad from the sea — Its port Casilda — First impressions — Dinner versus the theatre on a free ticket — Cosa de Cuba, . . 398

Chapter XXXI

Trinidad de Cuba. Funny streets — Buildings — Plaza de Serrano — Interior of houses — House of the American, Mr. Baker — Rosario street — Plaza de Carillo — Retreta — The changes caused by war — The Vijia or watch-tower — Valley of Trinidad — Sunrise and sunset views — Vesper bells — Reflections on the Cuban war — The Cantero place — Loma del Puerto — El potrerillo — The Barranca — Washing clothes — Palm Sunday — Ladies at church — Celebration by church and state — Whiter gaieties — Leaving Trinidad — Lovely ride down the mountain, • . . . *0g

Chapter XXXII

From Trinidad to Santiago de Cuba. Parting with traveling companion ' Funny way of making new acquaintances — Historic ground — Columbus' voyages — Tennyson's lines — Gardens of the queen — Santa Cruz — Manzanillo — Yara cigars — Mountain ranges on the coast — High peaks — "Turquino " — " Ojo del Toro " — Coast scenery — Approaches to Santiago de Cuba — The forts and bay — Hotels — Holy Thursday — Church ceremonies in Cuba — Good Friday — Beautiful women of Cuba — Holy Saturday The persecution of Judas CONTENTS. XV

Chapter XXXIII

-. THE Town of Cuba. Its situation — The grand cathedral — The St. Domingo gun — The markets — The mango and other fruits — Street sights and architecture — Drives around Cuba — Trip on the Sabanilla Railroad — Mahogany and other woods — The San Carlos and Philharmonic Clubs — Our landlady — Shopping in Cuba — An earthquake — History of the town, . . 433

Chapter XXXIV

The Cobre Mines. How to get there — Beautiful ride — Cobre village — A country breakfast — The mines — Kindness of the manager — Preparing to go in — In a cage — Descent into the mine — Their darkness — One thousand feet down — Weird appearance of galleries and workmen — Naked Chinese — Intense heat — Firing a blast — Water in the mine — Our return — Hill of difficulty, and hard work — Apropos story-telling — The light of day — A bath, and "heavenly feelings" thereof — How we looked when we came out — Crystals, ...... 444

Chapter XXXV

Nuestra Senora de la Caridad del Cobre. The Cuban Mecca — Devotions of Cubans — The shrine — Wonderful history of the discovery of the image — Description of — The church, buildings, and town — Enthusiastic account of a Cuban author — Trip to Guantanamo — The village of Santa Catalina — Easy way of treating strangers — Preparing for the Coffee Mountains, . . 455

Chapter XXXVI

Life in the Coffee Mountains. To horse ! To horse ! — Locality of the coffee places — Our company — Ride up the mountains — Superb views — The plain of Guantanamo — Wonderful vegetation — The Yateras — Arrival at coffee estate — The roof — Hospitality to strangers — Daily life — Rides on horseback — Visiting neighbors — Beautiful scenes — The parasites — El jaguey — The "cupey" — The wild orange — Castor oil — Monte de Verde — The orangeries — Vegetable lace — Cucullos or fire-fly — The critical lizard — Deliciousness of climate — Pleasant life, . . . . . - . . 463 CHAPTER -XXXVII. Coffee Growing. Cafetales and their description — The coffee plant — The land, how prepared — The planting and care of coffee — Picking — Pulping — Drying — Polishing*— Machinery and labor — Qualities — Mocha coffee a diseased fruit — Shade trees — The cacao or chocolate — The banana — The cocoa — Old trees — Coffee to market — Muleteros — Hints about preparing coffee — Profits of raising — Emigration — Healthfulness of the Yateras — Down the mountain — Farewell hospitalities — Romantic ride in a hand car — Return to Cuba — Departure, 47§ CONTENTS.

Chapter Xxxviii

From Cuba to Nuevitas, via North Coast. Blockade-runner — Cumberland bay — Wild coast scenery — The Alpha and Omega of Columbus — Cape Maisi under difficulties — Baracoa the oldest town — Odd place — Pine-apples and cocoa-nuts — Peculiar manner of traveling — Curious walking-sticks — Easy life on steamboat — A Cuban swell — A devoted mother — Jibara — Holguin — Shipping platanos — "He is the Devil — Priests — Funny baptism — Pretty children — Caspar Hauser — Devout priests — Columbus' description of the coast off Nuevitas, 499

Chapter XXXIX

Puerto Principe. Magnificence of the bay — A superb May-day — Columbus at Nuevitas — Jardin del Rey — Port of entry — Old Indian town — Camaguey — Sponge fisheries — Turtle fishing — Railroad to Puerto Principe — Description of — Some reflections on Cuban hospitality — Lack of hotel accommodations — Accepting invitations — The rebellion at Puerto Principe — Potreros or cattle-pens — Original subdivision of land — Cattle raising — Jerked-beef — The Cuban horse — Raising »f — Wonderful gaits — Guava jelly, how made — Handsome women — From Puerto Principe to Havana — Yellow fever in the hotel — Close of the season, 511

Chapter XL

Rural Life and Customs. Pleasant villages to visit — Guines — San Antonio Cristobal — Mariel — Cabanas — The falls of the Rosario — Lopez's defeat and capture — Farms — Truck gardens — Places for raising cattle — Kindness of country people — The guajiro and guajira— Manner of life — Customs — Dinners — Festivals — Celebrations — Goose fights — Shoe dance — Too lazy to live — Old sugar places — Improvements, 526 A GENERAL .VIEW OF CUBA. History and discovery — Climate — Productions — Population — Characteristics of people — The Cuban rebellion — General impressions, • • • 545

Appendix

. Travelers guide — Statistical tables, etc 556—584 CUBA WITH PEN AND PENCIL.

Chapter I

Hints to Travelers.* Pleasures of a trip to Cuba — General arrangements for — Limited traveling of the Cubans — Arrangement of money matters — Bills of exchange — Taking American silver — Letters of introduction — Clothing necessary while on the Island — Climate in winter — Invalid travelers — The steamers to go in — Time for going — Table of Cuban moneys — Passports — Letters. "The Queen of the Antilles!" Yes, and a beautiful queen she is, with the sapphire and emerald waters of the Gulf, sparkling 'neath the glories of a tropic sun, washing her stony feet in angry spray ; or, where her golden shores stretch out, rippling in gentle waves upon the sandy levee, as though murmuring in low but passionate tones the love notes of the South. Ah ! Carissima, indeed ! * The author will feel obliged to any traveler making use of this volume as a guide on the island, if he will notify him through his publishers of any changes or improvements.