Rambles in Galloway. (Second edition.) L.P

Front matter

RAMBLES IN GALLOWAY. Printed at the Courier and Herald Offices Dumfries, for THOMAS FRASER, DALBEATTIE. Edition limited to "250 Copies, Demy quarto, and 1000 Copies, Demy ".lorn. RAMBLES IN GALLOWAY BY AALCOLA /AL. HARPER. DALBEATTIE: THOMAS FRASER, 96 HIGH STREET, 1896. TO SIR MARK J. M'TAGGART STEWART, BART. OF SOUTHWICK, MEMBER OF PARLIAMENT FOR THE STEWARTRY OF KIRKCUDBRIGHT, AND HONORARY COLONEL AYR AND GALLOWAY ARTILLERY VOLUNTEERS, W7HO, AS A LEAL-HEARTED NATIVE OF THE PROVINCE, HAS ALWAYS TAKEN A DEEP INTEREST IN ITS SOCIETIES AND ASSOCIATIONS, HAVING FOR THEIR OBJECT ITS PROSPERITY AND PROGRESS THIS BOOK IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR.

Preface

. The articles forming this Volume (the first edition of which, published in 1876, has been for several years out of print) were written during brief holidays snatched from business, and have no pretension whatever to give full historical and traditional accounts of the objects of interest described. Simply narrating what was seen by the way, they are to a history what a hurried sketch is to the finished picture. The gleaning of the subject-matter for the work led to many a pleasant healthful excursion among " breezy moors and mountains wild," and to many a delightful research among auld kirkyards, howlet-haunted biggins, and chronicles of the past, which were to the author highly interesting and instructive. Then composition was purely a labour of love. With no other settled plan than to avoid, as far as possible, the " beaten track," the author has rambled through the greater part of Galloway, and has visited many scenes of savage grandeur which are seldom traversed by any save the solitary shepherd, as he follows his charge on the waste Now that Galloway is accessible by railway, these stony wilds, sequestered dells, and lonely mountain tarns, can be easily reached from many points, and it is his dearest wish that these Rambles, with the engravings illustrative of the scenery, may be the means of making this interesting district more widely known, and of impressing the reader at home with the truth, that in going farther in search of scenes of lowland beauty, or the stern and wild in mountain landscape, he might fare worse.

In this Second Edition, the former " Rambles " have been carefully revised and brought up to date ; mistakes where they had crept in have been corrected ; copious notes have been introduced where necessary to elucidate the text ; and information

PREFACE.

. VIII from private manuscripts and other sources has been gathered together and incorporated with the work. The author has also been fortunate in beiug able to draw upon a great deal of interest ing material, hitherto unpublished, from the old burgh records of Kirkcudbright, which, during the past four or five years, have been arranged and put into decent order for reference ; thus a considerable amount of new matter has been introduced into the text. A neat and fully detailed map of the district has been .specially prepared for the book, and an exhaustive Index has also been added to this edition. These and other improvements, with the large number of new illustrations, will, it is hoped, give such additional interest and permanent value to this edition as to render it even more acceptable to the public than its predecessor.

It only now remains for me to thank, in the most cordial manner, those friends who have given me valuable information and assistance while preparing this Second Edition for the press ; to my artist friends especially, who, in the most liberal manner, contributed original drawings for the work, I am deeply indebted ; and to Mr John Duncan, artist, Edinburgh, who furnished the designs for the cover, I return my grateful thanks ; to the Councils of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, the Ayrshire and Galloway Archæological Association, and the Dumfries and Galloway Antiquarian Society, for the use of numerous engravino-s of objects of antiquarian interest connected with Galloway, my warmest acknowledgments are also due. I take this opportunity of expressing my obligations to the Rev. George M'Conachie, Rerrick Manse, who in the most friendly way, undertook the labour of correcting the sheets as they passed through the press.

Should this Second Edition prove acceptable and useful to the public, the thought of having benefited somewhat my native province will be to me sufficient reward for all my labours. M. M'L. H. Castle-Douglas, 5th Judy, 1896. CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION— Galloway— Past and Present — -Rural Architecture, Agriculture, Litera- Pagr ture, and Scenery ... ... ... ... 1 Chapter. I. Castle-Douglas and Environs ... ... ... 14 II. Castle-Douglas to Auchencairn ... ... ... 32 III. Auchencairn and Environs ... ... ... ... 37 IV. From Auchencairn to Dundrennan ... ... 42 V. Dundrennan and Environs ... ... ... ... 45 VI. Dundrennan to Kirkcudbright 62 VII Kirkcudbright and Environs 79 VIII. Tongland 110 IX Kirkcudbright to Twynholm, Borgue Village, and Kirkandrews ... 1 20 X. Kirkandrews to Gatehouse-of-Fleet ... ... 13G XI Gatehouse-of-Fleet and Environs 139 XII.

Gatehouse to Ravenshall ... ... ... ... 147 XIII. Ravenshall and Neighbourhood ... ... ... 162 XIV. Ravenshall to Creetown ... ... ... ... 166 XV Castle-Douglas to Dromore, and over Cairnsmore to Newton-Stewart ... 171 XVI. Newton-Stewart to Loch Trool ... ... ... 186 XVII. Loch Trool to Loch Dee ...' 195 XVIII. Loch Dee to Loch Doon and Woodhead 203 XIX. Woodhead to Carsphairn and Dalry 217 Dalky to Kells Church and New-Galloway 228 XX. XXI. New-Galloway and Environs ... ... 233 New -Galloway to Balmaclellan and Castle- Douglas ... ■■■ •■• -•■ 239 CONTENTS. X Chapter. Page. XXIII. From Castle-Douglas to Dalbeattie ... ... 248 XXIV. Dalbeattie and Environs . . ... ... ... 253 XXV From Dalbeattie to Rockcliffe, Douglas Hall, Southwick Church, and Kirkbean ... ... 256 XXVI Kirkbean to Newabbey, and from Newabbey to Maxwelltown ... ... ... ... ... 269 XXVII.

Maxwelltown, &c 280 XXVIII. Irongray Church, The Communion Stones, Crocketford, and Corsock Bridge to Castle- Douglas ... ... ... ... ... ... 294 XXIX. Lochenbreck Spa ... ... ... ... ... 306 XXX From Newton - Stewart to Garliestown and Whithorn... ... ... ... 314 XXXI. Whithorn 335 XXXII. From Whithorn to Glenluce, Stranraer, Kirkmaiden, and Portpatrick ... ... ... 345 XXXIII. Portpatrick ... ... ... ... ... ... 371 Conclusion ... ... ... ... ... ... 379 Index ... 381 Map to the Rambles ... ... ... ... End LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Subject. Artist. Page. 1. Portrait of the Author W. S. MacGeoroe ... Front. 2. Castle-Douglas Capt. H. S. Cowan ... 14 3. Town Clock, Castle-Douglas 4. Threave Castle Harry MacGreoor 17 T. Clark 18 5. Bronze Cauldron found inCarlingwark Loch (Proceed. Ant. So<\) ■2.-. 6.

Stone Implement (Tailpiece) 7. Orchardton Round Tower 8. Bronze Saveall (Tailpiece) 9. Dundrennan 31 Capt. H. S. Cowan ... 34 (Proceed. Ant. Soc.) 41 H. J. Moule 44 10. Dundrennan Abbey Capt. H. S. Cowan ... 45 11. Cellarer Douglasin Dundrennan Abbey 12. Nun's Slab, Dundrennan Abbey... E. B. Hutchison 52 54 13. Do. Dundrennan Abbey (Present State) (Trans. D. d: G. Ant. Soc.) 55 14. Stone in Coach-House, Dundrennan Abbey James Moffat, from Draw ing by Geo. Hamilton ... 61 15. Roman Camp, Dunrod F. R. Coles 63 16. Sculptured Rock Surface, Dromore 17. Drummore Fort (Proceed. Ant. Soc) ... 65 F. R. Coles 65 IS. Rock Sculpture, Balmae (Proceed. Ant. Soc.) 69 19. Cup-marked Surface, High Banks 20. Urns found at High Banks 71 71 21. Perforated Urn found at Whinney 72 leggate 22. Kirkcudbright Castle Rev. Jos.

W. Ebsworth ... illustrations. Subject. .4 rtist. Page. 23. The Tolbooth, Kirkcudbright W. S. Mac-George '.ill 101 24. The Doo-Cots, Kirkcudbright 25. "Jougs" (Tailpiece) (Proceed. Ant. Soc.) ... 109 Capt. H. S. Cowan ... 110 26. Tongland Old Bridge 27. Bronze Mirror (Tailpikce) (Proceed. Ant. Soc.) ... 119 28. Section of Cave, Borness Point 29. Quern from Balmaclellan (Tailpiece) .. 30. Plunton Castle 128 135 H. J. Moule 137 31. Gatehouse-of-Fleet 32. Cardoness Castle .. 139 T. Clark 142 33. Anwoth Old Kikk (Rutherford's) H. J. Moule 147 34. Monument, Gordon Family, Anwoth Old Kirk W. S. MacGeoroe ... 149 35. Old Cross, Anwoth Kirk 36. Trusty Hill, Anwoth 150 F. R. Coles 153 37. Sculptured Rock, Trusty Hill 38. Kirkclaugh Shore The Author ... 153 H. J. Moule 158 39. Sculptured Stone, Kirkclaugh 40.

Stones in Garden at Cardoness C Trans. D. & G. Ant. Soc.) 159 160 41. Bronze Vessel, Found in Dowalton Loch (Tailpiece) (Proceed. Ant. Soc.) ... 161 42. Kirkclaugh and Ravenshall Rocks 43. Barholm Castle H. J. Moule 162 James Faed ... ... 164 H. J. Moule 165 44. Cairnholly 45. Stone Circle, Glenquicken 46. Glass Bead (Tailpiece) 168 (Proceed. Ant. Soc.) ... 170 47. Crofts Mote F. R. Coles 172 48 Kirkland Mote, Parton 174 49. Portrait of Alexander Murray, D.D A. Geddes, Engraved by Burnet ... 182 50. Cross in Minnigaff Churchyard James Moffat, from Sketch by Sir H. E. Maxwell 1S9 illustrations. XIII Subject. Artist. Page. 51. Bronze Mirror found in Galloway (Taili-iece). (Proceed. Ant. Soc.) James Moffat 194 52. Bruce's Stone, Moss Raploch 53. Bronze Dagger Blade (Tailpiece) 54. Cross at Garryhorn 205 (Proceed, .int.

Soc.) 216 (Trans. D. & G. Ant. Soc.) 217 55. Cross at Dalshangan 221 56. Glass Bead found in Galloway (Tailpiece) (Proceed. Ant. Soc.) ... 238 57. The " Cow Clout " Stone . 58. Mote of Urr from North 59. Do. Do. South 60. Do Do. East 61. Balcary Bay ... The Author ... 243 F. R. Coles 248 249 250 Rev. Gregory Smart ... 256 62. East Preston Cross, Kirkbean 63. Sweetheart Abbey ... The Author ... ... 263 T. Clark 269 64. Canoe found in Loch Arthur (Proceed. Ant. Soc.) ... 271 65. Sculptured Stone from Mull of Sunnoness (Tailpiece) ... 279 66. Celts found at Glenluce (Tailpiece) 67. Routing Bridge 293 James Faed 296 68. Inscribed Stone, Bridge-of-Urr 69. Stone Cross at Kirkinner The Author 304 (Mr Mum's Lighthouse) ... 329 70. Holed Stone at Crouse 330 71. Portrait of Patrick Hannay 331 72. Leather Shoe found in Dowalton Loch 73.

Bronze Vessel found in Dowalton Loch 74. Norman Doorway at Whithorn... (Proceed. .4 nt. Soc.) ... 332 334 Sir H. E. Maxwell ... 337 75. Cross at Isle of Whithorn 76. Glenluce Abbey ( Proceed. Ant. Soc. ) ... 338 James Faed ... ... 345 77- Mochrum Castle illustrations. XIV Subject. Artist. Page. 78. Loch Ryan House ... ... James Moffat, from Drawing by Sir H. E. Maxwell 357 79. Kirkmadrine Cross No. 1 f Trans. D.d; G. Ant. Soc.) 362 80. Do. No. 2 362 81. Do. Do. 3 362 82. Do. No. 4 363 83. Coat-of-Arms, Logan House ... ... J. Moffat, from Sketch by Sir H. E. Maxwell 369 84. Portpatrick in a Storm James Faed 371 85. Dunskey Castle W. C Faed LIST OF EXTRA ILLUSTRATIONS. Subject. A Hist. Page. 1. Castle-Douglas W. S. MacGeoroe 16 2. Carved Book-case, made from the Black Douglas's " Buistie " ...

(From Photo) 20 3. Threave Castle W. S. MacGeoroe T. M. Hay... 22 4. Heston, from the Ghost Ring 36 5. Dundrennan Abbey 6. Kirkcudbright William Mouncey 48 s.11 7. The Moat Brae, Kirkcudbright 8. Tongland Old Bridge The Author ... ... 94 William Mouncey 112 9. Portrait of John Morrison 10. Portrait of William Nicholson 11. " The Brownie o' Blednoch " 12. Gatehouse-of-Fleet Himself ... ... ... 116 John Faed, R.S. A. ... 130 E. A. Hornel 134 John Faed, R.S.A. ... 138 13. Portrait of Dr Thomas Murray 14. Rusco Castle (From Photo) ... ... 142 The Author ... ... 144 15. Cardoness Castle 154 16. WTIGTOWN, FROM NEAR CREETOWN J. Campbell Mitchell .. 166 17. Bridge over Black Water of Hensol Dee at The Author 176 John Muirhead, R.S.W. 186 18. On the Cree, Newton-Stewart 186 19. The Windings of the Cree, from Larg Hill 192 20.

Loch Trool 21. Loch Dee James Faed, junr. 194 202 22. The Murder Hole 23. Loch Dungeon William Mouncey James Faed, junr. 206 212 24. Loch Enoch extra illustrations. Subject. Artist. Page. 25. The Ken, above Dalry The Author 220 26. Earlston Linn, Dalry Tom. B. Bi.acklock ... 222 27. Kenmure Castle The Author 234 28. Portrait of Robert Kerr Alexander 250 29. Dalbeattie, from Craignair William Mouncey ... 252 30. Shipwreck on the Solway 260 31. Portrait of Paul Jones 264 Robert Burns 268 32 "The Mermaid of Galloway 33. Sweetheart Abbey Tom Scott, R.S. A. ... 272 34. Abbot's Tower, Newabbey The Author 276 35. Lincluden College 282 36. Interior of Burnside Cottage, Lochen breck J. I. M'Clymont 308 37. St. Ninian's Cave, Whitiiorn Sir H. E. Maxwell ... 334 38. Portrait of Viscount Stair 350 39.

Portrait of Field Marshal Stair 352 40. Lochinch Castle The Author ... ... 354 41. Craich'ai'fie Castle J. I. M'Clymont ... ... 356 42. Lochnaw Castle The Author 358 43. Drummore Harbour 364 44. Port Logan 368 45. Hills Castle A. B. Crombie

Introduction

. GALLOWAY — PAST AND PRESENT — RURAL ARCHITECTURE, AGRI- CULTURE, LITERATURE, AND SCENERY. In searching among the old records which have furnished much of the subject-matter of these pages, an opportunity was afforded for con trasting the past and present state of Galloway —Kirkcudbrightshire, or "The Stewartry," as it is still usually called, in particular; and a brief sketch of some of the chief improvements which have taken place in modern times may be a fitting introduction to the Rambles which follow7. It is scarcely possible, in this advanced period of society, to realise the primitive habits and ways of life of our forefathers. In the march of improvement, however, Galloway has not been behind ; and perhaps, more than in anything else, this is observable in the character of its rural architecture and system of agriculture.

The farm-houses of old times, some of which still exist in out landish districts, were very unpretending and uncomfortable erections. The dwelling-house, byre, and stable, usually formed one building, of low elevation, popularly known as the "long range." Sanitary arrangements, which are now so much attended to, were never considered worthy of a thought. Robert Heron, in his Journey through Scotland in 1793, writes, "that in the parish of Kirkpatrick-Durham the farm-houses are in general very mean and incommodious : the walls low and ill-built, and the covering of the roof broom, straw, or ferns ; and that, near to the town of Kirkcudbright, are some wretched farm-houses, with thatched roofs without chimnies." These have pretty generally given place to the commodious buildings of modern times, some of which, approached by gravelled walks, shrubberies, and flower-gardens, and nestling amongst trees, have quite an elegant appearance ; in fact, the intelli gent and enterprising farmer of our day enjoys the comforts and luxuries of life quite as much as the laird.

There is also great improvement in cottage accommodation for the cottar and labourer on many properties in the Stewartry. The primitive and rude " auld clay biggings," consisting of a " but and a ben," introduction. eartflien floors, with the fireplace in the middle, corresponding with a hole in the roof to serve as a chimney or lum, the roof being thatched with broom, heather, or straw, and often failing to keep out the weather, have in most places made way for neat, substantial, and roomy cottages, with slated roof, comfortable internal arrangements, and generally trim garden and flower-plot attached. There are still, however, some of the old hovels remaining, which we trust the hand of taste and progress will ere long reach and remove. The old quaker like meeting-houses or churches, which were the pride of our forefathers, have also given place to the imposing and decorative style of ecclesiastical architecture of modern times.

The country school-houses about the close of the last century were of the most uncomfortable and miserable description, and the teacher's dwelling-house, consisting of a "but" and a "ben," was in no better condition.* These have now been swept away, and in almost every town, village, and parish of Galloway the Boards under the Education Act have reared, renovated, and improved school-buildings, in accordance with the spirit of the age. In agriculture the progress is even more marked. Towards the close of the seventeenth century the art of war was so much practised among the Galloway lairds and their retainers, that the cultivation of the soil was entirely neglected, and what are now regarded as the ele mentary principles of agriculture were unknown. About that time the tenure on which property was held was so uncertain, that farms were sold for two years' purchase.

Then there were no large farms, no money-rents, no enclosures, and no proper rotation of crops. The greater part of the fertile districts of lower Galloway was apportioned to small squatters or crofters, who had neither the means, the incbna tion, nor the skill to improve the land. They held a right of pasturage in common, on the whole property of the landlord, and the small crofts around their wretched dwellings being the perpetual scene of their * The walls of the school-house were of the rudest kind of rubble work, say, thirty feet in length, by fifteen feet wide, and perhaps eight high ; one small window in each gable, eighteen inches square ; one small door on the roadside — no window ; two windows in back wall, east side, two feet six by one foot eight inches ; roofed with oak poles, strips of the bark (which glittered like polished ebony from the smoke of many years), and thatched with straw ; a "lum," right in the centre of the floor, of large dimensions, also of straw ; the surface dug in the floor, raked tolerably smooth, and you have the school-room.

A round spot in the centre of the floor, right under the " lum," was paved with small stones for the fireplace in winter, beside which stood a small round table and an arm-chair, upon which sat the teacher. There were three writing desks, with benches to suit, of foreign timber, at one end of the room ; the seats for the other classes were of a very homely character — they were old oak trees, which had been dug out of the mosses of the neighbourhood, nearly as when they were found, as far as polishing was concerned, and propped up to suit the length of the lower limbs of the scholars, the props being rough blocks of stone, or gathered sodB. There was no use for hooks to hang cloaks upon, as there were no cloaks to hang. — Reminiscences of Wigtownshire, by S. Robison. introduction. 3 agricultural labours, how7 to improve their material or social condition was never dreamt of by them.

From time immemorial this had been the usage, but shortly after the beginning of the last century various agricultural improvements were commenced. From the rapid advance of rents about that time in other quarters, the proprietors of Galloway became aware that something was amiss in their system of husbandry, and that one of the first steps towards improvement was to enclose their properties by erecting march aud sub-division fences. This innovation was first carried out by Sir Thomas Gordon of Earlston. Other proprietors soon began to follow his example ; but the peasantry, foreseeing in this movement the total destruction of the tenure on which they held their property, and that by these enclosures they were to be deprived of the privileges which, as small tenants and crofters, they formerly enjoyed, determined to oppose by open rebellion these proceedings of the landlords.

Actuated by these feelings of resentment, secret societies, known as "The Levellers and Houghers," were formed, and the levelling of the dykes by organised bodies of the peasantry, all armed with weapons of some sort for their defence, began, accompanied by riots and a general disturbed state of the country. The " Parking Lairds," as they were called, notwithstanding such opposition, continued to sub-divide and enclose the parks, but in many instances so soon as the dykes were built, the levellers met and, under cloud of night, demolished the operations of the preceding day, in the hope that by thus rendering the dykes useless to the lairds in rearing cattle they might be induced to return to the old system, and re-instate the former tenants in their holdings. The movement took place considerably earlier in Wigtown shire than in the Stewartry, the first outbreak of lawlessness occurring on the lands of Monreith, when Sir Alexander Maxwell enclosed with a stone dyke "The Fell of Barhullion."

A body of levellers congre gated, and in one night demolished nearly a thousand roods. On that occasion they used an instrument similar to a battering ram, with which they could overturn about a rood at a stroke.* In the course of their depredations the Levellers frequently met with opposition, and sanguinary and fatal skirmishes sometimes ensued. A farmer in Balsier, in the parish of Sorbie, for the second or third time enclosed a particular field, determined to oppose any attempt at demolition. He narrowly watched the operations of the gang, and summoning all his forces, after a severe, bloody, and fatal contest, fairly drove them from the field. In the action one of the * Letter from Daniel Matheson, Sorbie Village, 18th October, 1830, to John Nicholson, Publisher, Kirkcudbright.

INTRODUCTION.

. leaders of the Levellers lost his life. A precognition was instantly made by the Sheriff, and several of those who had taken part in the fray were found guilty, and sentenced to be imprisoned for three months. An order, or proclamation, was also read from the pulpits in all the surrounding parishes, threatening " death and damnation " to all and sundry who would henceforth be found destroying their neighbour's property or person in any shape. This seems to have had the desired effect of putting an end to levelling in the district. Thus, in Wigtownshire, the civil powers were able to cope with the ebullition of discontent and disorder; but in the Stewartry it was different. The movement there spread to such an alarming extent that the authorities had to apply for military assistance. For some time " Stair's Dragoons " were quartered at Kirkcudbright in readiness for any emergency.

Keltonhill summer fair, at the time of the Levellers, was the general rendezvous of the people of Galloway ; and it was there the " levelling " was first concocted, and Parish Committees and other details of the lawless proceedings were arranged. Among the leaders were several old soldiers, who put the levies through a regular course of drill, and in the disposition of their forces when meeting with opposition they showed considerable military skill. The redoubtable Billy Marshall, the tinkler, who had seen service in the army abroad, sided with the cause of the Levellers, and was one of their leading organisers. The method adopted in overturning the dykes in the '-Stewartry" was different from the practice in the " Shire." The men were divided into companies of from forty to fifty. Over each company was appointed a leader — a person of influence, and commonly advanced in life, whom they styled captain.

A company arranged themselves alongside the ill-fated rampart by word of command, each man furnished with a strong kent, of from six to eight feet in length, which he fixed into the dyke at the approved distance from the foundation and from his neighbour. After having ascertained that all was ready, the captain bawled out — "Owre wi't, boys'" and over accordingly it tumbled, amidst shouts that might have been heard at a distance of miles.* The people assembled and were kept embodied by parishes. They had meetings by appointment on the lands of the lairds most opposed to their interests, and marched in divisions over a wide circuit, levelling down the obnoxious fences, and houghing, stealing, and slaughtering cattle as they went along. This unhappy state con tinued for more than a year, but by the aid of the dragoons the ringleaders were apprehended, taken to Kirkcudbright Jail, and tried at a * Castle-Douglas Weekly Visitor, 26th March, 1830.

INTRODUCTION.

. 5 Court of Justices holden within the Tolbooth upon 27th day of January, 1725, and found guilty of having in May, 1724, in a "most ryotous, tumultuous, and illegal way assembled and convened themselves with several hundreds of other ryoters, mostly all armed with gunns, swords, pistolls, clubs, battons, pitchforks, and other offensive weapons, in and upon that part of the lands of Bombie called Bombie Muir, lying within the parochen of Kirkcudbryht, and Stewartry thereof, and being so assembled and convened did march in a full body to the lands of Gait ways, belonging to the complainer, Lady Mary Hamilton, in property, and there did demolish and throw down to the ground the number of five hundred and eighty roods of feald dykes built by her upon the said grounds, each rood of which cost eight shillings Scots in building,*' <tc.

They were all found guilty and decerned against to make payment to the said Lady Mary Hamilton, or to the Honourable Basil Hamilton, her Ladyship's factor, of the sum of £777 4s Scots money, with the imprisonment of the ringleaders ; and by the exaction of these heavy fines the rioters were dispersed and awed, and the dykes were rebuilt unmolested. The spirit of insubordination shown by the " Levellers " having been put down, agricultural improvement advanced with rapid strides. The great work of enclosing was carried on with vigour, and the advantages of the system were generally felt and acknowledged. Better roads for internal communication were formed. Shell marl, which was plentiful in many places in Galloway, particularly in Carling wark Loch, was employed, so early as 1730, as a manure.

Its reputation as such at that time was great; and such were its beneficial effects upon the soil that Heron, in his Journey before mentioned, records — " That mainly from the use of this manure the environs of Castle- Douglas were in a fine state of cultivation ; thick set with farm-houses ; and that the whole tract of country lying between the Dee and the Urr presented every mark of rapid advancement in agriculture.'' About the middle of the last century the attention of gentlemen of property and education was turned to agriculture, and an entirely new system was introduced in many parts of Galloway. About the year 1750 Mr Craik of Arbigland, " a gentleman possessed of great originality and strength of intellect," introduced into the Stewartry properly con structed implements of husbandry, and commenced the practice of ploughing with two horses — Mr Adam Brown, who died in Kirkcud bright in 1841, aged 82, being the first individual who ploughed with only two horses in the parish of Twynholm.

Previous to that time it had been the custom in ploughing the land to ycke six oxen and two horses in one plough, and sometimes eight oxen and two horses, with a man to hold the plough and another to drive the cattle, the plough in

INTRODUCTION.

. use being so heavy and clumsy that the weak and half -starved animals were murdered in dragging it after them.* In 1776 a Society for the encouragement of agriculture within the Counties of Dumfries and Wigtown and the Stewartry of Kirkcudbright was formed, with Mr Craik as president. Instructions as to the best methods of improving the whole arable lands within the bounds of the Society were circulated among the farmers, Mr Craik, in a memorial, calling upon the land owners within the district of the Society to assist, inform, and encourage their tenants in the improvement and management of their farms. Prominent amongst these improvers in Wigtownshire were Marshall Stair, who showed such great skill and enterprise in introducing many excellent improvements in the various branches of husbandry as to effect quite a revolution on the country.

Sir James Agnew of Lochnaw was also an energetic improver of his estates, and "the first to introduce fresh blood among his herds, fresh seeds for his fields, and ship loads of lime for top dressing imported from Ireland." Alexander, sixth Earl of Galloway, M'Dowall of Freuch, and M'Dowall of Logan were famed as cattle breeders. And in the Stewartry, the leading gentlemen who contributed by their instruction and encourage ment, in various ways, towards the advancement of agriculture were Mr Robert Maxwell of Arkland, " one of the most skilful practical farmers and eminent writers on agriculture ; " Mr Maxwell of Munches, an enlightened and improving landlord ; Mr Dalziel, farmer, Terregles, a superior agriculturist in his day ; and Mr Murray of Broughton of that time, who bestowed great care and attention in improving the breed of cattle.

Lord Daer, who possessed an enlarged and liberal mind, and who, "in his too short career, was esteemed as a philanthropist, and admired for his talents," also made great improvements in agriculture. These and other improvements resulted in the enclosing of pasture grounds for the rearing of black cattle for the great southern markets, to which large droves were periodically forwarded, some of the finest cattle sent to England being from the parishes of Kirkcudbright, Borgue, and Twynholm. To the great markets of St. Faith's and Norwich the best class were generally sent in the autumn from the former district, and were called "St. Faith's Cattle." The cattle all went by road, the journey to Norwich taking three weeks, and they often required to be shod to stand the rough roads, t About the year 1793 the country around Kirkcudbright was so industriously cultivated that meadow and corn fields adjoining the * Old Statistical Account of Tongland. t The Agriculture of Kirkcudbrightshire and Wigtownshire, by Jas. Biggar, 1876.

INTRODUCTION.

. 7 town were let at from £2 to £4 an acre, which, considering that the pasture-grounds in Kirkpatrick-Durham were let at that time at 2s an acre, was a very high rent. Even then, as now, the parish of Borgue was considered the Goshen of Galloway ; and there had been introduced there a breed of large white-faced sheep, which sold at 30s each. They were named muyg sheep, and in the making of stockings their wool was in great request. In Mactaggart's Gallovidian Encyclopædia, mugg sheep are stated to be sheep all white coloured — lowland sheep. The rearing and fattening of black cattle were in these times the chief cares of the Galloway farmer, and the trade of "droving" was the most important commerce of the district, and sometimes proved lucra tive to those engaged in it, though as often the reverse.