The new Hand-Book of Ireland; an illustrated guide for tourists and travellers

Preface

. i,HE necessity for a thoroughly reliable work on Ireland, combining the two-fold character of a Hand-Book and Guide, has long been felt, not only by residents in the country, but by tourists who take an interest in its material and social condition. The Authors of the present volume have, with much care, endeavoured to supply this want; and whilst they have not omitted any place of interest which a stranger might profitably explore, they have supplied historical, local, and other valuable information, not generally found in mere Guide Books. Tourists will find that travelling in Ireland is by no means so expensive as in England or Scotland, and that the system of Railways, of Mail cars, and Stage coaches, is such that the whole of the country may be visited in a fortnight But, of course, this rapid travelling is not recommended; for a fortnight in County Wicklow, another in Killarney and the south of Ireland, another amid the western highlands and the highlands of Donegal, and a week at the Giants' Causeway; another devoted to Loughs Neagh and Erne, and one to the very fine scenery of Counties Down and Antrim, would be found quite little enough to see these places to advantage. So that it would be better if the tourist selected

PREFACE.

. VI one district ai a time for a thorough examination, and thus, in the course of three or four visits, he would become familiar with the various features of interest and beauty with which the country abounds. The Authors desire to acknowledge their obligation to Mr. F. H. Mares, the eminent Photographer, of Grafton Street, Dublin, for his valuable assistance in placing at their service a large number of views of Irish scenery, from which Messrs. Forster and Co., of Crow Street, have produced the highly finished chromo-lithographs that illustrate the book. Indeed all the illustrations have been executed by this eminent firm; the printing by the Dublin Steam Printing Company, Abbey Street, and the binding by Messrs. Galwey and Co., Eustace Street. The Authors direct attention to the fact with peculiar pleasure, because it has been too much the custom to depreciate Irish art, and to assume that high-class books could not be properly illustrated or printed in this country.

The public will judge whether this imputa tion is deserved; and a visit to the establishment of the printer, which they recommend, will effectually remove any lingering doubt, and afford at the same time much valuable information. CONTENTS. PAGE GENERAL VIEW I THE METROPOLIS 66 METROPOLITAN EXCURSIONS II3 WICKLOW COUNTY . . . . 1 58 BRAY TO ARKLOW l8l WEXFORD COUNTY 194 DUBLIN TO CORK 220 KILDARE COUNTY 220 QUEEN'S COUNTY 230 KING'S COUNTY 236 TIPPERARY COUNTY 255 CORK COUNTY 266 EXCURSIONS FROM CORK 280 KERRY AND KILLARNEY 3II LIMERICK AND CLARE 33 1 WATERFORD, KILKENNY, AND CARLOW . . . . . 344 DUBLIN TO BELFAST 361 DOWN AND ANTRIM 376 ARMAGH, MONAGHAN, CAVAN, AND FERMANAGH . . . 399 DERRY AND DONEGAL 412 SLIGO TO GALWAY . 436 GALWAY TO DUBLIN 445

Appendix

Hoogi* Foitarl C'Oublir.

Chapter I. General View

p3j™333lRELAND is situated in the Atlantic Ocean to fcirtl IhtiiJ tne west °f Great Britain, from which it is fr' j 1*21 separated by St. George's Channel, the Irish s,^ | Sea, and the Northern Channel. Its geographical position is between 510 26' and 55° 21' north latitude, and between 50 20' and io° 26'longitude west. Its shape is that of a rhomboid, the great diagonal of which is 302, and the less 210 miles. The greatest length on a meridional line is 225 miles, the greatest and least breadths on parallels of latitude 174 and in miles. It comprises an area of 20,815,460 acres, or 32,524 square miles. With the exception of the east, the whole coast is exposed to the Atlantic waves, rushing with stupendous force from America ; but the sweep is broken by a large number of islands, which stand like out-lying fortresses defending the sacred island with their rocky cliffs, generally sublime in their altitude, and singularly picturesque in the fantastic shapes into which they have been worn by the surging seas that assail them incessantly.

Wherever the everlasting mountains and ada mantine rocks have not confronted the raging ocean with their impregnable barriers, it has sapped away the land and made for itself numerous bays, estuaries, and inlets which have given to the shores a zig-zag appearance. In conse- A quence of those sinuosities the coast line is of immense extent, being estimated at 2,300 miles, giving a proportion of one mile of coast for 14 square miles of area, considerably greater than in England, though less than in Scotland. The jagged appearance of the map is most remarkable along the coasts of Donegal, Sligo, Mayo, Galway, and Kerry. The islands which stud the surrounding seas, like so many satellites, amount to 196, the largest being Rathlin, Tory, Achill, Clare, the Arran Isles, Valentia, Dursey, Whiddy, Cape Clear, Great Island, Lambay, and Ireland's Eye.

We proceed to sketch the leading features of the country. MOUNTAINS. The greater part of the surface is a plain which is little varied in the central region from Dublin to Galway ; but north and south there are undulating elevations, and hills of considerable magnitude, the chief mountain ranges stretching along near the coast. The interior, however, is intersected by several lofty ranges, among which the Devil's Bit, Slieve Bloom, the Galtees, the Wicklow Mountains, Mount Leinster, and Blackstairs are most remarkable. A Guide to freland, which has reached a tenth edition, among other strange things (such as that the Shannon reaches the sea at Limerick), informs the tourist that there are ' no hills that could be properly called mountains in Ireland, although some of them nearly approach to that rank.' The fact is, as every traveller in the country knows, Ireland is almost girt round by magnificent mountain ranges.

The highest of these, Magillicuddy's Reeks in Kerry, has one point, Carran- Tual, higher than any in England. It is 3,414 feet, while the highest summits in England, exclusive of Wales, viz., Scawfell, Helvellyn, and Skiddaw, are respectively only 3,229, 3,055, and 3,022 feet, while Snowdon (3,571 feet), the highest of the Welsh mountains, exceeds Carran-Tual only by 157 feet. The late Rev. Cæsar Otway, in one of his admirable sketches of Irish scenery, remarks that Dublin is the site which a king would select for the capital of the island. It is undoubtedly best calculated to be the centre of authority, intelligence, commerce, and communication, from its ready command of the whole island, its proximity to England, and the richness of the great plain that stretches away westward and northward from its walls.

Standing on Tallaght Hill, or any of the Dublin mountains and looking northward, we behold the level country which comprises the counties of Dublin, Kildare, Meath, Westmeath, and Louth. This county lying to the north-east, extends to the Carlingford Mountains near Newry, which attain an elevation of 1,935 feet, and which send a spur westward into the county of Armagh. Carlingford Lough divides this range from the grand and picturesque Mourne Mountains, which run parallel with the coast through the county of Down northward as far as Newcastle — a pretty watering-place — over which the highest summit, Slieve Donard, rises abruptly and majesti cally to a height of 2,796 feet. Passing over the hills in the north of the County Down, and on the Antrim coast, we arrive at the vast Donegal range, which extends from Malin Head in the extreme north to Donegal Bay, breasting the Atlantic all the way, and presenting for a distance of over 70 miles some of the boldest and grandest coast scenery in the world.

The highest points in this range are, Errigal, 2,466 feet ; Derryveagh, 2,240 ; Bluestack, 2,219 i astd Slieve Snaght, 2,019. South of Sligo Bay, protruding far into the Atlantic, lies the vast county of Mayo with its clustering islands, towering cliffs, innumerable creeks, and its glorious Clew Bay. Here also is a region of mountains, wild and grand, the highest of which are Nephin, 2,646 feet ; Berreen Corrough, 2,295 feetJ Slieve Turck, 1,322 feet; Slieve Car, 2,368 feet; Nephin Beg, 2,012 feet; Cushcamcurragh, 2,261 feet; Slieve More, 2,217 feet; and Slieve Croghan, 2,222 feet Next comes the Connemara range in the county of Galway, a region black with mountains and bogs, dotted with lakes, indented with harbours, abounding with the wildest picturesque scenery. On Lough Corrib it has about 50 miles of shore ; on the sea, including the' coast of mainland and of islands, it has no less than 400 miles of shore.

In the interior it has more than 20 navigable lakes ; and on tlie sea-board, upwards of 20 safe harbours, fit for vessels of any burden. There are, perhaps, says Nimmo, as many miles of shore, of the sea, or navigable lakes, as there are square miles of surface. Starting again from Dublin, southward, by Bray, we speedily enter the extensive range of Wicklow mountains, which occupy a great part of the surface of the county, extending from north to south a distance of 40 miles. Many of the summits exceed 2,000 feet in height; Lugna quilla, the highest, being 3,039, Kippure 2,473, ar>d Douce 2,384 feet. A military road runs through the centre of this range from Dublin to Aughavannagh Barrack ; — the Wick low mountains, intersected by innumerable wooded glens and ravines, having afforded shelter to the enemies of the English in all ages, and especially in the Rebellion of 1798.

From Aughavannagh we have a view of the extensive table, land of Carlow ; and where that county joins Wexford near Newtownbarry, rises a range of mountains, the chief of which is Mount Leinster (2,610 feet), and which, separating the counties of Wexford and Carlow, runs on towards Water ford, terminating near New Ross, and forming the water shed of the Slaney, the Barrow, and the Nore. Proceeding southward through Waterford to Youghal and Cappoquin, we come upon the Knockmealedown mountain (2,598 feet), and the Commeragh mountains (2,478 feet). Descending from Knockmealedown to the Golden Vale in Tipperary, watered by the Suir, we get a view of the Galtee range, which rises grandly over the Glen of Aherlow to the height of 3,000 feet. Nearly the whole of the western border of the county of Cork is mountainous ; but it does not present such grand ranges as Down, Wicklow, Donegal, Mayo, Galway, or Kerry.

The highest of its mountain summits are Hungry Hill, 2,249 feet. Cahir Barna, 2,234 feet, and Sheehy mountain, 1,769 feet. Ofthe Kerry mountains it is sufficient, in this general view, to say that they fill all the southern and south-western districts of the county with wonderful com binations of grandeur and beauty. ' They contain i9-2oths of the scenery which has made Kerry so celebrated among tourists, and which, were it situated on the Continent of Europe, would challenge comparison with any district except Savoy, Northern Piedmont, and Southern Switzerland.' The tourist, then, who has been told by his ' Guide,' that there are 'no hills that could be properly called moun tains in Ireland,' will be surprised to learn that it contains over fifty mountains exceeding 2,000 feet in height. The Land Tenure Commissioners' Map, showing the approxi mate number of square miles between the following heights, will give some idea of the nature of the surface of the country : — Square Miles.

Between sea-level and 250 feet in height . . 13,242s » „ 250 and 500 . . Ii,797l ,, ,, 500 and 1,000 . . 5,797f „ ,, 1,000 and 2,000 . . 1,589s Above 2,000 feet in height, . . . 82 J RIVERS. The Liffey has the honour of flowing through the Metro polis, and is, therefore, entitled to precedence in pur brief notice of the rivers of Ireland, if not on account of its own merits, and the rich scenery it passes through, which have made many writers enthusiastic in the praises of its beauty. It rises in the north Wicklow mountains, in the parish of Blessington, being formed by the junction of two streams, at an elevation of 1,256 feet above the sea level. Describ ing a remarkably circuitous course, it drains large districts of the counties of Wicklow, Kildare, and Dublin, into which it flows by the Phœnix Park, and loses itself in Dublin Bay.

Its principal tributaries are the Dodder and the Tolka. Proceeding northward, the next river is the Boyne, which rises in the north-west of the county Kildare, and draining portions of Westmeath, Cavan, and Louth, passes through the richest part of the County Meath on to the sea at Drogheda. The Newry River flows through that town into Carlingford Lough at Warrenpoint, to which place the Lough is navigable, and which is connected bya canal with the Upper Bann and Lough Neagh. The Lagan rises among the Slieve Croob mountains, in the County Down, and falls into the Belfast Lough, being navigable to Lisburn, and connected with Lough Neagh by a canal. The next river of importance in this direction is the Bann, which drains large portions of Down, Armagh, Tyrone, Londonderry, and Antrim. It rises in the Moume mountains, enters Lough Neagh, and, issuing from it as the Lower Bann, falls into the sea four miles from Coleraine, to which it is navigable.

The river Foyle is formed by the junction of two considerable streams near Strabane and Lifford — the Finn and the Mourne, — flowing round the city of Derry, from which point to the sea it is known as Lough Foyle, being tidal a distance of 35 miles, and navigable for sea-borne vessels to the bridge of Londonderry, a distance of 20 miles. The Shannon is the largest river in the United Kingdom. It has its source at the head of a wild district called Glan gavelin, near Cuilcach mountain, 11 miles above Lough Allen, in which it is lost for 6£ miles, and which is generally considered to be its source. It is 254 miles long, expanding into several loughs, Lough Ree and Lough Derg being the principal. Moving sluggishly through a flat country — it drains portions of the counties of Cavan, Leitrim, Roscom mon, Meath, Westmeath, Galway, Tipperary, Limerick, and Kerry.

It has numerous tributaries, the principal of which are the Boyle, the Suck, and the Brosna. It is navigable throughout nearly the whole of its course, and below Limerick it expands into an estuary 45 miles long, opening into the Atlantic Ocean. Its basin area is 6,946 square miles. Rapids occur below Lough Derg, which impede the navi gation, rendering a canal necessary at those points. The Shannon, passing through Athlone and Limerick, and form ing the eastern boundary of Connaught, is by far the most celebrated of our rivers in connexion with the wars in which, for many centuries, the English and Irish races contended for the possession of the land. No river of any importance is to be found west of the Shannon, although the streams are very numerous, and abound in fish. Among those which flow to the eastern coast, the principal are remarkable for the beauty of the scenery through which they pass.

The Bray, with its tributaries from Glencree, has for its entire basin a magnificent and most picturesque landscape to the town of Bray. The Vartry, which has been utilized for the great Dublin Waterworks, traverses scenery of wild grandeur in its passage to the town of Wicklow. The Avoca has been so celebrated for the ex quisite combination of mountain and wood and glen through which it passes, that it is sufficient to mention that it takes its course through the central and south-eastern districts of the County Wicklow, and enters the sea at Arklow, its principal tributaries being the Avonmore, the Avonbeg, and the Derry or Aughrim, flowing through charmingly wooded glens. The Slaney derives its source from three head waters in the Wicklow mountains, uniting in the Glen of Imaile, running through the town of Baltin glass into the county of Carlow, and thence by the towns of Rathvilly, Tullow, Clonegall, and Newtownbarry, where it takes a south-east course through Scarewalsh to Enniscorthy, near which it receives the Urn and the Boro, and from which it is navigable to Wexford Harbour, a distance of 12 miles.

The Barrow rises in the Slieve Bloom mountains, on the western border of the Queen's County, through which it flows for ten miles, making a detour into Kildare past Monasterevan, washing the town of Athy, thence separating the Queen's County from Kildare and Carlow, and finally, over the remainder of its course, dividing Kilkenny on its right bank, and Wexford on its left. Its chief tributaries are the Burren at Carlow, and the Nore near New Ross. The chief towns upon its banks are Portarlington, Monaste revan, Athy, Carlow, Leighlinbridge, Goresbridge, and New Ross. From the sea to that town it is navigable by vessels of 200 tons, and thence it is navigable by barges to Athy, where, connecting itself with the Grand Canal, it completes the navigation to Dublin, from a great portion of the centre of Ireland.

The Suir rises in the county of Tipperary, near Money gall, under Borresroe Mountain. It flows through the richest part of the County Tipperary by Templemore, Thurles, Golden-bridge, Cahir, Clonmel, Carrick-on-Suir, and on to Waterford. From that city it forms the boundary between the counties of Waterford and Kilkenny, to Cheek -point, where it meets the Barrow. Thence for some miles it forms the boundary between Waterford and Wexford counties, and both rivers united flow past Duncannon Fort, and into the sea, under the name of ' Waterford Harbour.' The river Nore passes through a country of low but varied hills till it approaches Kilkenny, when from its eastern bank the view of that city is grand and striking, — its ruined monasteries, its towers, its cathedral on one eminence, and its com manding castle on the other.

The whole of its course from the grand demesne of Mount Julliet by Thomastown and Innistiogue presents picturesque scenery, varied by ruined castles and abbeys, by rocks that turn the course of the river, by green meadows that skirt its banks, or by steep hills clothed in verdure. The Blackwater might be called the queen of Irish rivers, if the Shannon did not greatly exceed it in length and volume ; but if its claims rested on beauty alone, it would stand unrivalled. It rises between the mountains of Knock nagossy and Knockanadrine, fifteen miles east of the head of Tralee Bay, County Kerry. For eight or ten miles it forms the boundary between Kerry and Cork ; and then runs eastward about thirty-seven miles through Cork, and for about six it runs on the boundary between Cork and Waterford, and then for seven miles through Waterford to Cappoquin, whence it flows for eight miles into the sea at Youghal Harbour.

But these figures represent straight lines ; if its windings were measured it would nearly equal the Severn, which is the second river in South Britain. The Blackwater flows through the beautiful towns of Mallow, Fermoy, Lismore, and Cappoquin. It would be impossible in any brief notice to do justice to the beauty of this river. Let it suffice here to quote a sentence or two from a great traveller, and a judicious writer : — ' We have had descents of the Danube,' says Mr. Inglis, 'and descents of the Rhine and of the Rhone, and of many other rivers ; but we have not in print, so far as I know, any descent of the Blackwater; and yet with all these descents of foreign rivers in my recol lection, 1 think the descent of the Blackwater not surpassed by any of them. There is every combination that can be produced by the elements that enter the picturesque and the beautiful — deep shades, bold rocks, verdant slopes, with the triumphs of art superadded and made visible, in magnificent houses, and beautiful villas, with their decorated lawns and pleasure grounds.' The Lee, on which Cork, the capital of Munster, is situated, is a beautiful river, only about forty miles in length, issuing from the romantic lake of Gougane-barra, and flow ing near Macroom and by Ballincollig into the Cork Harbour at Little Island.

Saving some ruined castles, there is not much that is very remarkable in the scenery through which it passes till it reaches the point where, as Spencer sings — ' The spreading Lee, that like an island fair, Encloseth Cork with its divided flood.' From Cork to Queenstown the river is exquisitely beautiful, its high banks on either side being covered with charming villas and plantations, reaching down to the edges of the broad expanse of water, on which large ships repose peace fully on their shadows, and pretty little steamers, like things of life, flit up and down between Cork and Queenstown with continually increasing traffic, notwithstanding the competition of a railway on either side. BAYS AND HARBOURS. The word Lough, Lake, cognate with the Latin Lacus, and, by the Scotch, still spelled Loch, is, after their example, applied in the north of Ireland to inlets of the sea.

Thus, marine waters, which in the south -are called bays or harbours, are in the north called loughs, as Carlingford Lough, Strangford Lough, Belfast Lough, Lough Foyle, and Lough Swilly. Bays, estuaries, inlets of the sea of all sonns and sizes, are numerous around the Irish coast, many of them capable of making harbours as safe and commodious as any in the world. We notice a few of them, chiefly on the eastern coast, facing Great Britain, which have been utilized for the purposes of navigation and trade, and which have become seats of commerce. These are all at the mouths of rivers, and are by no means the most commodious. It is admitted that Ireland possesses an amount of harbourage such as no other country in the world can show. It has above sixty good harbours, of which fourteen are capable of receiving the largest vessels, and in some of these the whole navy of Britain might ride safely.

But unfortunately they are remote from the great highways of commerce, which lie through the channels dividing the island from Great Britain, and remote, too, from the cities founded by the race of colonists to whose industry, enterprise, and intelligence Ireland owes very much of its progress. It is gratifying to observe what has been done by them to overcome difficulties and to remove natural impediments. Those who remember Dublin Harbour for thirty or forty years, and contrast Kings town to-day with old Dunleary, will be able to realize what has been effected by the erection of piers, by dredging and other means, in order to facilitate navigation and commerce. A good deal has been done to improve the harbours of Drogheda, Dundalk, Newry, and Derry ; but it is in Belfast that the greatest wonders have been achieved, and the greatest difficulties conquered, in making a safe and com modious harbour.

Londonderry has lately made remarkable progress in the same direction. Turning towards the south, we find the ancient town of Wexford suffering from the shallowness of its harbour and the shifting sand-banks, which tend to close its mouth. Waterford has a good harbour and a long line of quays, beside which vessels of 500 tons can anchor. The Cove of Cork, now called Queenstown, can boast of one of the finest harbours in the United King dom — an immense sheet of deep water, land-locked and well sheltered on every side, capable of giving safe anchorage to the whole Channel Fleet. But its great advantages have not been turned to account so fully as might be desired, and the most brisk traffic on its quays consists in the export of the people to the American shores. Crookliaven, in the same county, is fitted to be an excellent port.

Bantry Bay, which penetrates the land twenty-four miles, is one of the finest and most capacious harbours in Europe, having a profusion of good anchoring ground, and a sea board of wonderful beauty and grandeur. The Kenmare estuary winds to a distance of twenty-nine miles among the Kerry mountains. Valentia Harbour has an immense extent of land-locked anchorage. The estuary of the Shannon presents, in its broad expanse of sheltered waters, a number of safe asylums for shipping — at Carrickholt Bay, Inniscattry Island, Tarbert, and other places. It is, besides, the outlet of a far-extending stretch of inland tidal navigation, connecting with the ocean the fresh-water navigation of the Shannon, running through the centre of the country, and reaching Dublin by two canals ; yet, owing to a variety of causes, Limerick, once famous for its commerce, has been rapidly declining of late years.

Galway, from its position on the Atlantic ocean, facing America, ought to be a prosperous commercial city ; but all efforts to divert to that port a portion of the regular traffic with the United States and Canada have failed, leaving scarcely a trace upon the time-worn features of the stationary capital of Connaught, although there was a time when it rivalled the most flourishing cities in England in its foreign trade. There is an inlet among the Killeries — Killcry Harbour — between the counties of Galway and Mayo, which presents the most magnificent combinations of Highland scenery, rivalling the finest parts of the northern and western coast of Scotland. Clew Bay penetrates this Alpine region to the extent of twenty miles, measuring eight or nine miles across the entrance, where it is protected by a number of green islands, among which there are many good harbours ; while ' in the scenery of its shores and surface it combines the savage, the sublime, and the softly beautiful, with more richness and effect than probably any other sheet of either salt or fresh water in the three kingdoms, excepting the celebrated Loch Lomond in Scotland.' LAKES.

Ireland abounds in fresh water lakes. The chief of these is Lough Neagh in the province of Ulster. It is surpassed in size by only three other lakes in Europe : the Lake of Geneva, Lake Ladoga in Russia, and Lake Vener in Sweden. It extends from north to south a distance of fourteen miles, between the county of Antrim in the east and the counties of Tyrone and Londonderry on the west. Its length in diagonal lines from the south-east to the north-west, and from the south-west to the north-east, is respectively fifteen and sixteen miles, and its breadth is from six to nine miles. It covers an area of 98,255 acres. Its surface elevation above low-water sea level is 48 feet, and its depth varies in its central parts from 39 to 42 feet, its extreme depth at one point, near Skady Island, being 102 feet.

The principal streams which flow into Lough Neagh are, the Main river, the Six-mile water, the Upper Bann river, and the Black water. The whole of the superfluent waters are discharged into the Lower Bann, which flows between Antrim and Londonderry, and enters the sea within a short distance of Coleraine. The land immediately adjoining Lough Neagh is generally low and marshy, presenting nowhere the abrupt elevations, rocky protuberances, or mountain backgrounds, which render the lake scenery in other parts of Ireland so picturesque. It is, however, skirted by some fine demesnes, and its banks are adorned with some of the best timber in the kingdom, especially in the demesne of Lord Massereene, at its foot, adjoining the town of Antrim, and the magnificent park of Shane's Castle, which extends along its western borders ; and then follows the course of the river Main to Randalstown, where there is a singularly beautiful arch.

This park is classic ground, for, on the north-west bank of the lake are the ruins of Shane's Castle, an extensive and powerful fortress, founded by the chief whose name it bears, who long defied the armies of Elizabeth and extorted from the proud queen a recognition of his sovereignty over the province of Ulster. The visitor may see there the largest and the oldest oaks perhaps in the empire — the identical grand old trees under whose shade the soldiers of The O'Neill doubtless often held their nightly bivouac. The castle was the residence of Lord O'Neill until it was acci dentally burned some years ago. Lough Erne is also in Ulster, being a series of expansions of the river of that name, which issues from a small lough at the border of Longford and Cavan. Upper Lough Erne and Lower Lough Erne united, extend nearly from end to end of the County Fermanagh, dividing it into two nearly equal sections.

The upper lake measures about nine miles Irish in length, and four at its greatest breadth. The lower lake is about twelve miles long -and six wide. Both are pro fusely studded with islands of all shapes and sizes. Nor must we forget the magnificent mansions that adorn their banks. ' I confidently assert,' says Mr. Inglis, ' that Lower Lough Erne, take it all in all, is the most beautiful lake in the three kingdoms ; and but for the majestic Alpine outline that bounds the horizon on the upper part of Lake Leman — Lake Leman itself could not contend in beauty with this little-visited lake in the county of Fer managh.' There is another lake in Ulster — Lough Derg, in the county of Donegal, which presents the greatest possible contrast to Lough Erne, in the dreariness of the surrounding scenery, but which was, nevertheless, the most renowned of Irish lakes in the middle ages.

It is situated about five miles from the little town of Pettigo, and covers an area of 2,140 acres. It contains a number of islands, the largest of which, Station Island, is nearly covered with two chapels and other buildings connected with the pilgrimages which are still maintained there annually, from the ist of June to the 15th of August, attracting many thousands of devotees, who are guided in their devotions by a prior and several priests. When we visited the place a few years ago, we went from Station Island to the scene of 'Saint Patrick's Purgatory' in one of the Prior's boats. A few stunted trees, decaying from age, some loose stones, and the fragment of a wall, are all that remain of the structure and its surroundings, which inspired so much awe in the pilgrims who went there, even from the Continent of Europe, for the expiation of sins deemed otherwise unpardon able.