The Holy Land. With illustrations from original drawings and photographs

Chapter I. Chapter II

JERUSALEM UNDER THE PASHA. STREETS OF JERUSALEM. PAGE PAGE Bethlehem gate ... 1 The city gates . . .14 Tower of David 1 Law of ingress and egress . 14 Court of Zion ... 2 Power of piastres . . .15 The city by night . . 15 Darkness of the streets . 16 An Oriental market-place . 2 A public writer ... 3 Virgins' lamps ... 3 Figures seen at dark . .16 Strange contrasts ... 4 Absence of gaieties . .17 Jerusalem as seen from David's tower .... 5 Perils of the streets . . 17 Dogs, rats, and lizards . .18 The wandering fakeers . 18 The ridge of Zion ... 5 The quarters of the city . 6 Streets unknown in the East. 19 Woodcut — Plan of Jerusalem .... 7 Arrangements of an Arab town . . . .20 Streets in the Bible . . 20 Christian quarter ... 7 Jewish quarter ... 8 Names of streets . . .21 Mohammedan quarter . . 9 Sooks aud bazaars . . 21 Valley of Jehoshaphat . . 9 Paved roads . . .21 Slope of Olivet ... 10 Pavement in the bazaar . 22 Hyenas in the city . . 22 Ancient rock tombs . . 10 Aspect and colour of the Holy City 11 Jerusalem houses . . .23 A coffee-house . . .23 Beauty of the Temple hill . 12 Crypt of an ancient church . 24 Greek and Saracenic ruins . 24 General effects ; . .13 VI

CHAPTER IV. PAGE

An Arab home in the street . 25 THE TEMPLE. The mosque . . .25 PACE Moriah . . . .39 A cook's corner . . .25 Present Haram es shereef . 39 Life in the public street . 26 Mosque of Omar ; Mosque el Aksa .... 40 Saracenic art ... 40 The Temple platform . . 41

Chapter III

Outline of the Temple . . 41 JERUSALEM UNDER THE HIGH The Tabernacle . . . 42 PRIEST. Solomon's edifice . . .42 Nature unchanged . . 27 Olden aspects of the city . 27 Open suburb of Bezetha . 28 The two crests ; Zion ; Akra 28 Course of the first wall . . 29 Second temple; third temple 43 Hellenic genius of Herod . 43 The Holy of Holies . . 44 The Holy Place . . 44 The veil ; the golden vines . 45 The second wall . . .29 Court of the Priests . . 45 Antonia . . . .30 Lishcath ha-Gazith . . 46 Suburbs of Bezetha-Gareb . 30 Gardens and graves . . 30 Joseph's garden and sepulchre 31 Gentile Court . • .46 Holy markets . . .47 Progress of the buildings . 48 Almond Pool ... 31 The Cloisters . . .48 Aspect of the great city , . 32 Absence of verdure . . 32 Beauty of the Temple front . 49 Royal gardens . . .32 The common gardens . . 33 Inside the North Gate . . 33 Style of Jewish buildings . 34 Regal and sacred edifices . 34

Chapter V. The Great College

School of Jewish thought . 50 Tower of Zion . . .35 Palace of Herod . . .36 Separatists and Sadducees . 50 Court of Pilate ... 36 Rise of a critical School . 51 Gabbatha . . . .36 Hillel's seven rules . . 51 Antipas Herod's palace . 37 The Seven Synagogues . . 37 Career of Hillel ... 52 Kinsman of Jesus . . 52 Palace of Aunas . . .37 A Poor Student ... 53 The Temple mount . . 38 A narrow escape . . .53 PAGE PAGE Hillel made Rector of the College . . . . .54 Fame of his lectures . . 55 Shammai . . . .55 Two rival schools . . .55 A student's battle . . 56 Hillel's failures and successes 56 Beauty of Hillel's sayings . 57 Succeeded by his son Simeon 57 Gamaliel ; St. Paul . . 58 Jesus at the Springs . . 69 The bridegroom's friend . 69 Office of the bridegroom's friend . . . .70 Spies at the Springs . . 70 Departure for Galilee . . 71

Chapter VII. Samaria. Chapter VI

From Jerusalem to Nabulus . 72 PURGING THE TEMPLE. Feast of the Passover . . 59 When founded ; how kept . 59 Changes in the rite . . 60 The Temple at the time of Passover . . . .60 Encroachment of the dealers . 61 Examples of St. Paul's in London . . . .61 Modem Cairo and Jerusalem 62 The Temple police . . 62 Jesus drives out the dealers . 63 The people question him . 63 The Lord's answer . .64 Danger from the Separatists . 64 A reformer's first opponents . 65 Fox ; Wesley . . .65 Indifference of the Sadducees 65 Simeon's old age . . .66 Prevalence of violent counsels 66 Nicodemus . . . .67 Midnight interview . . 67 John the Baptist . . .68 Journey on foot . . .72 Jacob's Well ... 73 The surrounding scenery . 73 Sychar 74 The Lord's avoidance of walled cities . . . .75 Sychar not Shechem . .75 Ruins of Sychar . . .76 Ebal; Gerizim . . .76 Samaritans and Jews . . 77 Ceremonial uncleanness . 77 Penalties . . . .78 Difficulties of travels . . 78 Object of journey through Samaria . . . .79 Woman at the Well . . 79 Personal hostility . . .80 The two churches . . 80 Holy associations of Shechem 81 Jerusalem a new city . . 82 Jealousies of Ephraim and Judah .... 82 Division of the kingdom .

Chapter VIII

Jacob's well. PAGE Eastern shore ; western shore 96 Towns and cities on the lake 97 PAGE Samaria derives from Ephraim 84 Controversy with Jerusalem 84 A great captivity . . .85 Syrian and Greek colonists . 85 A race of Pagan-Jews . . 86 The new Temple on Gerizim 87 The counter assertions . . 87 Feud of Zion and Shechem . 88 Severe laws against Samaritans . . . .88 Samaritans not to be converted .... 88 The woman's question . . 89 Christ's reply ... 89 The woman confused . . 90 Her appeal to Gerizim . . 90 First announcement of the Messiah . . . .91 Surprise of the disciples . 91 The dinner of bread and fruit 92 Set out for Cana . . .92 Magdala; Capernaum . .97 Bethsaida - Julias . . 98 Greek cities . . . .99 Tiberias founded . . .99 The Golden house . . 100 How the city was peopled . 100 Palaces ; public places . . 101 Olympic games . . . 101 Rapid growth of Tiberias . 102 Made the capital of Galilee . 102 Antipas Herod . . . 103 Unlawful ornaments on the Golden house . . . 103

Chapter X. In The Lake Country

Jesus on the lake . . . 104 False notions of the Messiah 104 Hope of a physical heaven . 105 The Party of revolt in Galilee 105 A new church . . . 106 Journeying and teaching . 106 Jesus avoids great cities . 107

CHAPTER IX.

Salvation to come of the Jews 107 SEA OF GENNESARETH. Abominations of Gentile cities 108 Village of Cana . . .93 A noble Jew . . .93 The second miracle . . 93 Lake of Galilee . . .94 Scenery 94 Woodcut — Sea of Galilee 95 Beauty of its banks . . 95 Tiberias partly built among tombs .... 108 Hebrew symbol of death . 109 A grave polluted . . . 109 A whited wall . . . 109 Feast of Purim . . . no Founded by Mordecai . . 110 Dancing and drinking . . Ill PAGE PAGE A favourite story . . . Ill Herod's Arabian wife . . 122 Good side of Purim . .112 Jesus goes up to Jerusalem . 112 The Princess Herodias . . 122 An illicit love . . .123 Herodias's married life . . 123 Dislike to her first husband . 124 Her ambition and unscrupulousness .... 124

Chapter XI

A JEWISH SABBATH. Obstacles to her plans . . 125 Jesus in Jerusalem . .113 Influence over Antipas Herod 125 Pool of Bethesda . . . 113 Temptation and fall . .126 Curative power of springs . 113 Sacrifices in the Temple . 114 Crowds of sick and lame . 114 Miracle of the sick man . 115 Hareem intrigues . . . 126 The Arabian lady . . . 127 Macherus . . . .127 Secret arrangements . . 128 The Sabbath Day ; unknown to the Greeks . . 115 An escape from Tiberias . 128 Abuse of Sabbath observance 116 Defence of life . . . 116

Chapter XIII

Restriction from work and pleasure .... 117 HERODIAS. Aretas declares war ; Antipas unpopular . . . 129 No Sabbath in holy things . 117 The cripple's story . .118 Excitement of the people . 118 Antipas sends for John . 129 John denounces the marriage .... 130 The ears of corn . . . 119 David and the shew-bread . 119 The palsied hand cured . 120 Instance of the lost sheep . 120 Anger of Herodias ; John made prisoner . . . 130 John's disciples sent to Galilee . .. . . 131 New law of Sabbath observance 120 Christ's opinion of John . 131 A great feast at Macherus . 132 Salome dances . . . 132

CHAPTER XII.

A dancer's reward . . 132 ANTIPAS HEROD. The Tetrarch's oath . . 133 Murder of John . . . 133 Invitation to the Golden House 121 Consternation at the crime . 134 Laws of marriage . . 134 Herod's marriage . . . 121 Aretas, King of Petra . . X PAGE

Chapter XV

Antipas Herod's fear . 135 EXPULSION FROM NAZARETH. Jesus invited to the Golden house .... 135 PAGE Christ enters the Synagogue 151 The Roman centurion . . 136 Announces himself as the Messiah .... 151 A new miracle . . . 137 Mary at Capernaum . . 137 Christ goes up to Nazareth . 138 Amazement of his neighbours 152 Their proof prophecy . . 152 Jewish notions of a Messiah 153 A prince ; a warrior . . . 153 Argument of miracles . . 154 They ask a sign . . . 154

CHAPTER XIV.

Jew and Greek . . . 155 THE SYNAGOGUE. The widow of Sarepta . . 155 Congregation rise upon him 156 Public worship; family worship . . . .139 Jewish policy . . . 156 Origin of the Synagogue . 140 Remains in Galilee . . 140 Capernaum ; Kefr Birim . 141 Galileo and Spinosa . . 157 Christ dragged to the precipice 157 Departure from Nazareth . 158 Woodcut — Synagogue at Kefr Birim . . . 141 Character of these ruins . 142 Easy to restore . . . 142

Chapter XVI

General form of Hebrew edifice 143 CAPERNAUM. Greek Synagogues . . 143 Outward aspect ; interior . 144 The lake country . . 159 Presence of the Romans . 159 Women .... 145 Freedom to travel . . 160 Laver ; scraper . . . 146 Capernaum .... 160 Officers of the Synagogue ; Batlan . . . .146 Mixed population of Jews and Greeks . . . .161 Chazzan ; Meturgeman . 146 A favoured city . . . 161 Elder 147 The White Synagogue . . 162 The service opens . . 147 The Torah ; the Shema . 148 Lesson of the day . . 148 Question of site . . . 162 Khan Minyeh ; Tell Hum . 163 Evidence from Josephus . 163 The Midrash . . .149 The three fountains . . 164 Growth of the Synagogue . 150 Fountain of Capernaum . PAGE PAGE Josephus at Capernaum . 165 A hard saying . . . 181 Gospel evidence . . . 165 Some of the Twelve doubt him 181 Pharisees seek to kill him . 182 Ruins of Tell Hum . . 166 Situation of Capernaum . 166 The Synagogue . . .167 Woodcut — Ruins of the White Synagogue at Capernaum . . . 167

Chapter XVII

I. pharisaic rites. Argument from these ruins . 168 Parties in Capernaum . . 183 Separatist dreams . . 183 Christ almost a Pharisee . 184 Identity of name . . . 168 Tell Hum the true site . 169 His supposed preference for the Jews .... 184

CHAPTER XVII.

Jewish ceremonial law . . 185 bread of life. Purifying hands . . . 185 Scene in the Synagogue porch 170 Excitement of the Jews . 171 Story of the desert . . 171 Orientals at meat . . 186 The common dish . . 186 Necessity for clean hands . 187 A custom becomes a rite . 187 The law of purification . 188 The hungry multitude ; the barley loaves . . . 172 Feeding the five thousand . 172 Departure from the desert . 173 Christ left behind . . 174 Storm on the lake . . 174 Christ walks on the water . 175 Was he Messiah ? . . 175 The hands ; the water ; the vessel .... 188 What is water ? . . .189 Mode of sprinkling . , 189 Law of vitiation . . . 190 When to wash hands , . 190 Penalties of neglect . .191 Story of Eleazar ben Chatzar 191 Christ opposes these rites . 192 True law of defilement . 192 The Pharisee's dinner . . 193 Sabbath service in the Synagogue .... 176 Lesson of the day . . 176 Jesus questioned by the people 177 He exhorts them . . . 177 They demand a sign . . 178 He offers them a spiritual gift 178 The Bread of Life . .179 Congregation murmurs . 179 " I am the Bread of Life " . 180 Agitation among the Jews ". 180

Chapter XIX. Light Of The Gentiles

Call of the Gentiles . . 194 The disciples . . . PAGE PAGE The upper chamber . . 209 Jewish patriotism offended . 195 Opinion of the Galileans . 196 Three great journeys on foot 196 The Plain of Tyre . . 197 First Gentile convert . . 197 Region of the Ten Cities . 198 Roof and parapet . . . 210 Lewan ..... 210 Family apartments . . 211 Domestic habits . . . 211 Summer lodgings ; winter retreat . . . .212 A Greek league . . . 198 Feeding the Gentile multitude 199 Furniture . . . .212 Visit to Magdala . . .199 Occupation ; gossip ; society 213 Unleavened bread . . 199 Christ at Bethany . . 213 Bethsaida- Julias . . .200 Cæsarea-Philippi . . . 200 NOTE TO

Chapter XX

Peter declares him Messiah . 201 But an earthly Messiah . 201 Christ rebukes him . . 202 The Transfiguration . . 202 ON THE NAME BETHANY. Bethany assumed to mean House of Dates . . . 214 Reason for questioning this derivation . . . 214

CHAPTER XX.

Authority of Lightfoot . 215 BETHANY. A jesting etymologist . .215 Return to Capernaum . . 203 Caravan going to Jerusalem . 203 Jesus journeys alone . . 204 Enters Jerusalem . . 204 Retires to Bethany . . 205 House of the Poor . . 205 Picture of Bethany . . 205 An ancient watch-tower . 206 The jest taken in earnest . 215 An alternative . . . 215 Determination of the site . 216 Rarity of the word . . 216 The Hebrew root . . . 217 Reference to Mr. Deutsch . 217 Mr. Deutsch's reply . . 218 True derivation . i . 219 Lazarus .... 206 The home of Martha and Mary .... 207

Chapter XXI

Permanence of things in Palestine 207 THE SANHEDRIN. Agitation in the Temple court 220 Agriculture and building . 208 Policy of the Sadducees . 220 A Syrian house . . . 208 Policy of the Pharisees . . 221 General form of house . . 209 Woodcut — Syrian Houses . 209 Christ's relation to the Pharisees ....... PAGE PAGE Excitement of the High Priest 237 The Sanhedrin . . .222 Speech of Caiaphas . . 238 How composed . . . 222 Jurisdiction ; mode of election 223 Power of the Great Council 223 Reduced by Herod and Pilate 224 Lishcath ha-Gazith . . 225 High Priest presides . . 225 Decree of Sanhedrin . . 238 Jesus quits Judea . . 239 Spies tempt him . . . 239 The Galilee caravan . . 240 Arrival at Jericho . . 240 Vice-President . . .226 A city of palaces . . . 241 Zacchæus .... 242 Christ accused before the Council . . . .226 The Oral Law . . .242 Defended by Nicodemus . 227 Counter-accusation . . 227 Parable of the Good Samaritan 228 Jews rise against Jesus . 228 Arrival at Bethany . . 243

Chapter XXIII , Gathering For The Feast

CHAPTER XXII.

Dispersion of the caravan . 244 BOTH SIDES OF JORDAN. Tents and booths . . . 244 Christ at Bethany . . 229 Building a booth . . . 245 En Shemish . . .229 Israel encamped round Zion . 246 The Desert Khan . . 230 Inn of the Good Samaritan . 230 Situation of this Khan . 231 Sabbath day ... 246 Simon the leper . . . 247 Leprosy .... 247 Khan Houdjar . . .231 Law against lepers . . 248 Christ at the Jordan . . 232 Dinner at Bethany . . 248 Judea and Perea . . . 232 Mary anoints Christ . . 249 Increase of the Galileans . 233 Discontent of Judas . . 249 Collision with Pilate . . 233 Palm Sunday . . .250 The new aqueduct . . 234 Procession to Jerusalem . 250 Popular discontent . . 234 Jesus weeps over the city . 251 Massacre in the Temple . 235 Questioned by the elders . 251 Christ's saying about it . 235 The woman taken in adultery 252 Anger of Antipas Herod . 236 Tribute money . . . 253 Feud with Pilate . . .236 The temple money . . 254 Death of Lazarus . . . 236 Christ on the two forms of tribute .... 255 Miracle at Bethany .

Chapter XXV. Page

Doctrine of the resurrection 256 The great commandment . 257 AFTER EVENTS. PAGE Christ's solution . . . 258 The forty years . . . 271 Gamaliel succeeds Simeon . 271 Gamaliel defends Peter and John . . . .272 Recall of Pilate . . .272 Causes of his fall . . . 273

CHAPTER XXIV.

Vitellius in Jerusalem . . 273 OLIVET. Aretas defeats Antipas . . 274 Herod's temple . . .259 Antipas deposed and exiled . 274 Walk to Olivet . . .260 Agrippa king of Judea . . 275 Evening view of the city . 260 Changes of high priests . 275 Slope of Olivet; the Cedron valley . . . .261 Theudas, a false Christ . . 276 Tiberius Alexander . . 276 The temple wall . . . 261 Death of Simon the Galilean 277 The temple ; Antonia ; Bezetha . . . .262 A Temple riot . . .277 Galileans and Samaritans . 278 Cheesemonger's valley . . 262 Menahem leads the Galileans 278 Hill of Zion . . .263 Civil excesses . . . 279 Prophecy of its destruction . 263 A high priest murdered . 279 The Last Supper . . .264 The Swordsmen . . . 280 Midnight meeting of the Sanhedrin . . .264 The Egyptian prophet . . 280 Noble Festus . . .281 Christ before Annas . . 265 Palace of Caiaphas . .265 Carried before Pilate . . 266 Answer to Pilate's question . 266 High priests elevated and deposed .... 281 War in the Temple courts . 282 The rival high priests . . 282 Sent to Bezetha . . .267 Swordsmen and Saducees . 283 Jesus refuses to answer Antipas .... 267 Seizure of Eleazar . . 283 Success of the Aristocrats . 284 Pilate's proposal ; rejected . 268 Pilate hesitates . . . 268

Chapter XXVI

The cry of treason . . 269 Pilate yields . . .269 REVOLT AND CIVIL WAR. Crucifixion .... 270 Gessius Florus . . . 285 Close of the human history . 270 Nero's offering rejected . . PAGE PAGE Revolt of the Jews . . 286 A religious riot . . . 302 A general rising . . . 286 A contrast ; the Moslem ritual 302 Antonia stormed . . . 287 Saxon and Turk . . 303 Menahem assumes the Messiahship .... 287 Pale Mohammedans of the West . . . .303 Joshua, son of Sapphias . 288 Menahem arrives in Jerusalem 288 Murder of Ananias . . 288 Murder of Menahem . . 289 Romans surrender Zion . 289 Arab opinions of English Christianity . . . 304 Toleration is power . . 305 A real Christian church . 305 Want of Christian brotherhood . . . .306 Massacres throughout Palestine 290 Dome of the Rotunda . . 306 Legions advance on Jerusalem 290 Danger of it falling . . 307 Fail and retreat . . . 291 Sectarian monks and statesmen . . . .307 Parties in Zion . . . 291 The more liberal Turk . . 307 Events in Galilee . . 292 Destruction of the Golden house . . . .292 Joshua rewarded . . . 293 Christians quit Jerusalem . 293 Battle in the streets . . 294 Arrival of Idumæans . . 295 Murder of Annas . . 296 Titus captures Jerusalem . 296

Chapter XXVIII. Jews

The modern Jews . . 308 Rachel's tomb . . . 308 Yearly day of wailing . . 309 Commercial Jews and restoration Jews . . . 309 Jews in Europe . . . 310

CHAPTER XXVII.

Policy in the Middle Ages . 310 THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. Roman opinions of the Jews 311 Progress of the church . . 297 A day in the Rotunda . . 298 The Turkish guard . . 298 Our sacred Shrines . . 299 Latins and Greeks . . 300 Hebrew pride of race . .311 Reaction of policy . . 312 Jewish rights and wrongs . 312 Restoration societies . . 313 True policy of restoration . 313 Sectarian rites . . . 301 Apologue of the return to Judah . . . .314 Coptic service . . . TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAGE PAGE An amazing calculation . 314 The Sephardim consulted . 315 Conditions to be considered . 315 The Greek policy . . 328 Its success .... 328 Future of the Greek Church in Syria . . . .329 The land . . . .316 A firman obtained in Stamboul 316 Experiment and failure . 317 The Ashkenazim . . .317

Chapter XXX

The real question ; the true reply . . . .318 LYDDA. Descent to Sharon . . 330 Profit of the Greek monks . 319 A strange horseman . . 330 Early breakfast . . . 331 A self-invited guest . .331

CHAPTER XXIX.

Story of the Muscovite pilgrim .... 332 SYRIAN CONVENTS. Christian convents . . 320 Mohammedan toleration . 320 The Greeks in Palestine . 321 Rise of Latin convents . . 321 Childlike faith . . .332 A City of many names . . 333 Beauty of Lydda . . .333 A varied history . . . 334 Latin convents, inns, and prisons .... 322 Treaty of Richard and Saladin 334 St. George . . . .334 Conducted at a loss . . 322 Church of that name . . 335 The patron saint of England 335 Great variety of convents in Syria . . . .323 The false St. George . . 336 Description of a Frank convent . . . .323 The true St. George . . 336 Ruins of the English Church 337 Ignorance of Latin monks . 324 Woodcut — St. George's Church at Lydda . . 337 Bad characters . . . 324 Life in a Palestine monastery 325 Mohammedan legends . . 338 Carnal comforts . . . 325 Prophecy of the Cafir . . 338 Discredit of the Latin Church 326 Descent of Christ . . 338 Battle of Lydda . . .339 Contrast with the Greek convents . . . .326 Frank and Arab . . .339 Influence of Mar Saba . 327 Safety of the convents . . 327 The children of Jehovah . 340 Final reconciliation . .

ILLUSTRATIONS. VOLUME II. Jerusalem . . Photographed by Graham ; engraved by Saddler. Plan of Jerusalem, drawn by Author „ Malden. Sea of Galilee „ „ „ „ Ruins of a Synagogue „ „ „ Ruins of Capernaum Synagogue Photo, by Graham ,, „ Syrian houses, drawn by Ward, R.A. „ „ Sacred Shekel . Coin in British Museum „ „ Roman denarius ,, „ „ English church at Lydda . Photo, by Graham „ „ b VOL.

Chapter I. Jerusalem Under The Pasha

On the whip hand as you ride from the rocky plateau lying west of Jerusalem into the Beth lehem gate, the way of all those who come up from Egypt and from the sea, stands the strong Tower of David ; a pile of rocks, bevelled and shaped by the art of man into a solidity resembling that of nature. Fronting this tower is the tall house or palace of the English bishop ; and between these edifices of the old and the new ages, a lane and open court, unpaved, unkempt, uneven, a place encumbered with the litter of men and beasts, runs along the high ridge of Zion. A camel is lying down under its load, a swarm of dogs fighting for a bone, a knot of peasants waiting to be hired. VOL. II. b Dotted about this open court, in their white sacks, their gabardines, and their gaudy shawls, squat the barbers and cooks, the pipe-cutters, donkey-boys, money-changers, dealers in pottery and in fruit, all busy with their work or chaffering about their wares.

In the Jerusalem of Suraya Pasha, this court in front of the Bethlehem gate — the chief entrance for trade and pilgrimage into the Holy City, just as the Damascus gate is the chief entrance for pomp and honour — is the market, the exchange, the club, the law-court, the playhouse, the parliament of a people who despise a roof, and prefer to eat and drink, to buy and sell, to wash and pray, in the open air. Here everybody may be seen, everything may be bought, excepting those articles of luxury found in the bazaar. Yon negro dozing near his mule is a slave from the Upper Nile, and belongs to an Arab bey who lets him out on hire. These hus bandmen are waiting for a job : their wage is a penny a day. Last week they were shaking olives for the Armenians ; next week they will be carry ing water for the Copts ; but their chief employers are the Greek monks, who own nearly all the best vineyards and olive-grounds lying within a dozen miles of this Bethlehem gate.

They are a hardy and patient race ; Moslem in creed, Canaanite in blood. The man clothed in white linen, with an inkhorn in his belt, is a public scribe ; a functionary to have been seen in this gateway any time since the days of Ezra, perhaps since the days of David, who likened his tongue to the pen of a ready writer. These jars and vases, these urns and mugs, are made of native clay, spun in the Potter's field, and also in the dark vaults adjoining the Damascus gate. In colour, in pattern, this domestic earthenware is probably as old as the age of Ruth. These rude clay cups, pinched in at the side, are still called Virgins' lamps ; they are similar to those trimmed by the Seven ; and they are still fed with sweet olive oil and carried by the Arab and Jewish girls. All centuries, all nations, seem to hustle each other in this open court under David's tower.

In pushing through the crowd of men, you may chance to run against a turbaned Turk, a belted Salhaan, a gaudy Cavash, a naked Nubian, a shaven Carmelite, a bearded papa, a robed Arme nian, an English sailor, a Circassian chief, a Bashi Bazouk, and a converted Jew. In crossing from the gateway to the convent, you may stumble on a dancing dervish ; you may catch the glance of a veiled beauty ; you may break a procession of B Arab school-girls, headed by a British female ; you may touch the finger of a leper held out to you for alms. Your feet are now on the high place of Zion, in the court of David, in the forum of Pilate. On your right hand and on your left, glaring grey and hot in the October sun, rise the strong forts built by Herod, the barrack of Saladin, the palace of a Latin priest, a Jew money-changer's shop, a London missionary church.

The phantoms of all time seem to hover round you. Beyond the barrack of Saladin, on the line of wall going south, springs the round Asiatic minaret of a mosque ; under the shadow of adjoining towers lie the green wastes of the Armenian garden ; while behind the English palace hides the deep pool of Hezekiah, from the waters of which project some richly wrought columns of an age unknown. Into this great pool peer down the windows of a Coptic convent and a German inn. East and south of this pool stand Calvary, Golgotha, the dome of the Sepulchre. Looking down the slope of Zion from the battlements of David's tower, the eye falls on and over the Armenian convent ; the hospice of St. John, once the proud home of Knights Templars, now a shapeless ruin ; the Moslem bazaar ; the Jewish wailing place ; the Temple platform, with its green cypresses and prickly pears, its marble screens, its mosque of El Aksa, and its beautiful dome of the Rock ; a scene framed by the mountain chain of Scopas and Olivet, through a depression in which chain you catch a glimpse of the Dead Sea.