A Residence in France; with an excursion up the Rhine, and a second visit to Switzerland

Preface

. The introduction lo Part I. os the "Sketches of Switzerland," leaves very little for the author to say in addition. The reader will be prepared to meet wilh a long digression, lhat touches on lhe situation aud interests of another country, and it is probable he will understand the author's motive for thus embracing mat ter that is not strictly connected with the principal subject of lhe work. The first visit of the writer to Switzerland was paid in 1S28 ; that which is related in these two volumes, in 1832. While four years had made no changes in the sublime nature of the region, they had seriously affected the political condition of all Europe. They had also produced a variance of feeling and taste in the author, lhat is the unavoidable consequences of time and experience. Four years in Europe are an age to the American, as are four years in America lo lhe European.

Jefferson has somewhere said, that no American ought to be more than five years, at a time, out of his own country, lest he get behind it. This may be true, as to its/ac^.,- but the author is convinced lhat there is more danger of his getting before it, as to opinion. It is not improbable thai this book may furnish evidence of both these truths. Some one, in crilising the First Part of Switzerland, has in timated that the writer has a purpose to serve with the " Trades' Unions," by the purport of some of his remarks. As this is a country in which the avowal ofa tolerably sordid and base moa VI

PREFACE.

. tive seems to be indispensable, even to safety, the writer desires to express his sense ofthe critic's liberality, as it may save him from a much graver imputation. There is really a painful humiliation in the reflection, that a citizen of mature years, with as good natural and accidental means for preferment as have fallen to the share of most others, may pass his life without a fact of any sort to impeach his dis interestedness, and yet not be able to express a generous or just sentiment in behalf of his fellow-creatures, without laying him self open to suspicions that are as degrading to those who en tertain them, as they are injurious to all independence of thought, and manliness of character. a CONTENTS. I'Atl

Letter I

Influence of the late Revolution in France. — General Lafayette. — Sketch os his Private Life. — My visits to him. — His opinion of Louis XVI. — Mr. Morris and Mr. Crawford. — Duplicity of Louis XVIII. — Charles X. — Marie Antoinette. — Legitimacy of the Due de Bordeaux. — Discovery of the Plot of 1822. — Lafayette's conduct on that occasion. — A negro Spy. — General Knyphausen. — Louis-Philippe and Lafayette. — My visit to Court. — The King, the Queen, Madame Adelaide, and the Princesses. — Marshal Jourdan. — The Duke of Orleans. — Interview with the King. — " Adieu I'Amerique /" — Conversation with Lafayette. — The Juste Milieu. — Monarchy not inconsistent with Repuhlican Institutions. — Party in favour of the Due de Bordeaux 1

Letter II

The Cholera in Paris. — Its frightful ravages. — Desertion of the city — My determination to remain. — Deaths in the higher classes. — Unexpected arrival and retreat. — Praiseworthy conduct ofthe Authorities. — The Cholera caricatured! — Invitation from an English General. — Atmospherical appearance denoting the arrival of the Cholera. — Lord Robert Fitzgerald. — Dinner at the house of Madame de E -. SS

Letter III

Insecurity of the Governmnet. — Louis-Philippe and the Pear. — Caricatures. — Ugliness of the Public Men of France. — The Duke de Valmy. — Care-worn aspect of Society under the New Regime.— Controversy in France respecting tbe Cost of Government in America. — Conduct of Arherican Agents in Europe . 38

Letter IV

Gradual disappearance of the Cholera. — Death of M. Casimir Perier. — His Funeral. — Funeral of General Lamarque. — Magnificent Military Escort. — The Due de Fitzjames. — An Alarm. — First symptoms of popular Revolt.— Scene on the Pont Royal. — Charge on the people by a body of cavalry. — The Sommations. — General Lafayette and ihe Bonnet Rouge. — Popular Prejudices in France. England, and America. — Contest in the Quartier Montmartre. — The Place Louis XVI. — A frightened Sentinel. — Picturesque Bivouac of troops in the Carrousel. — Critical situation. — Nightview from the Pont des Arts. — Appearance of the Streets on the following morning. — England an enemy to Liberty. — Affair at CONTENTS. PAGE 65 SI 105 the Porte St. Denis. — Procession of Louis-Philippe through the 6treets. — Contest in the Rue St. Miry. — Sudden Panic. — Terror ofa national Guard and a young Conscript. — Dinner with a Courtier. — Suppression of the Revolt ...... 'J8

Letter V

National Guards in the Court of the Palace. — Unclaimed Dead in the Morgue. — View of the Scene of Action. — A blundering Artillerist. — Singular Spectacle. — The Machinatjons of the Government. — Martial Law. — Violations of the Charter. — Laughable Scene in the Carrousel. — A refractory Private of the National Guard 59

Letter VI

Aspect of Paris. — Visit to Lafayette. — His demeanour. — His account of the commencement ofthe Revolt. — Machinations of the Police. — Character of Lafayette. — His remarkable expression to General . — Conversation on the Revolution of July. — The Doctrinaires. — Popular Sympathy in England and on the Rhine.— Lafayette's dismissal from the command of the National Guards. — The Duke of Orleans and his Friends. — Military Tribunals in Paris. — The Citizen King in the Streets. — Obliteration ofthe Fleur-de-lis. — The Royal Equipage. — The Duke of Brunswick In Paris. — His forcible Removal from France. — His Reception in Switzerland. — A ludicrous Mistake

Letter VII

Public Dinner. — Inconsiderate Impulses of Americans. — Rambles in Paris. — The Churches of Paris. — View from the leads of Notre Dame. — The Place Royale. — The Bridges. — Progress ofthe Public Works. — The Palaces of the Louvre and the Tuileries. — Royal Enclosures in the Gardens ofthe Tuileries. — Public Edifices. — Private Hotels and Gardens. — My Apartments in the house of the Montmorencies. — Our other Residences. — Noble Abodes in Paris. — Comparative Expense of Living in Paris and New York. — American Shopkeepers, and those of Europe. ....

Letter VIII

Preparations for leaving Paris. — Travelling arrangements. — Our Route.— The Chateau of Ecouen. — The Croisee.— Senlis.— Peronne. — Cambray. — Arrival at the Frontier. — Change in the National Character. — Mons. — Brussels. — A Fete. — The Picture Gallery.— Probable Partition of Belgium 97

Letter IX

Malines.— Its Collection of Pictures. — Antwerp— The Cathedral.— A Flemish Quack.— Flemish Names.— The Picture Gallery at Antwerp. — Mr. Wapper's Carvings in Wood. — Mr. Van Lankeren's Pictures.— The Boulevards at Brussels.— Royal Abodes. — Palace of the Prince of Orange. — Prince Auguste d'Ahremberg's Gallery of Pictures. — English Ridicule of America. CONTENTS. IX PAGE

Letter X

School System in America. — American Maps. — Leave Brussels. — Louvain. — Quarantine. — LiÆge. — The Soleil d'Or. — King Leopold and Brother. — Royal Intermarriages. — Environs of Liege. — The Cathedral and the Church of St. Jacques. — Ceremonies of Catholic Worship. — Churches of Europe. — Taverns of America. — Prayer in the Fields. — Scott's error as regards the-Language spoken in Li6ge. — Women of Liege — Illumination iu honour of the King. 112

Letter XI

Leave Liege. — Banks of the Meuse. — Spa. — Beautiful Promenades. — Robinson Crusoe. — The Duke of Saxe-Cobourg. — Former magnificence of Spa. — Excusions in the vicinity. — Departure from Spa. — Aix-la-Chapelle. — The Cathedral. — The Postmaster's Compliments. — Berghem. — German Enthusiasm. — Arrival at Cologne. 122

Letter XII

The Cathedral of Cologne. — The eleven thousand Virgins. — The Skulls of the Magi — House in which Rubens was horn. — Want of Cleanliness in Cologne. — Journey resumed. — The Drachenfels. — Romantic Legend. — A Convent converted into an Inn. — Its Solitude. — A Night in it. — A Storm. — A Nocturnal Adventure. — Grim Figures. — An Apparition. — The Mystery dissolved — Palace of the Kings of Austrasia. — Banks of the Rhine.— Coblentz. — Floating Bridges. — Departure from Coblentz. — Castle of the Ritterstein. — Visit to it. — Its Furniture. — The Ritter Saal. — Tower of the Castle. — Anachronisms. 131

Letter XIII

Ferry across the Rhine. — Village of Rudesheim. — The Hinter-hausen Wine. — Drunkenness. — Neapolitan Curiosity respecting America. — The Rhenish Wines enumerated. — lngelheim. — Johannisberg. — Conventual Wine. — Unseasonable praise. — House and Grounds of Johannisberg. — State of Nassau. — Palace at Biberich. — The Gardens. — Wiesbaden. — Its public Promenade. — Frankfort on the Maine. ........ 151

Letter XIV

Boulevards of Frankfort. — Political Disturbances in the town. — Le petit Savoyard. — Distant glimpse of Homberg. — Darmstadt. — The Bergestrasse. — Heidelberg. — Noisy Market-place. — The Ruins and Gardens. — An old Campaigner. — Valley of the Neckar. — Heilbronn.— Ludwigsberg. — Its Palace. — The late Queen of Wurtemberg. — The Birthplace of Schiller. — Comparative claims of Schiller and Goethe. — Stuttgart. — Its Royal Residences. — The Princess of Hechingen. — German Kingdoms. — The King and Queen of Wurtemberg. — Sir Walter Scott. — Tubingen. — Ruin of a Castle of the middle ages. — Hechingen. — Village of Bahlingen.— The Danube.— The Black Forest.— View from a mountain on the frontier of Baden. — Enter Switzerland. 16T CONTENTS. X PACE iv; 205 226

Letter XV

A Swiss Inn.— Cataract ofthe Rhine. — Canton of Zurich —Town of Zurich. — Singular Concurrence. — Formidable Ascent. — Exquisite View. — Einsiedeln. — The Convent. — " Par exemple." — Shores of the Lake of Zug. — The Chemin Creux. — Water Excursion to Alpnach. — Lake of Lungerh. — Lovely Landscape. — Effects of Mists on the prospect. — Natural Barometer. — View from the Brunig. — Enter the great Canton of Berne. — An Englishman's Politics. — Our French Companion.-1- The Giesbach. — Mountain Music. — Lauterbrunnen. — Grindewald. — Rising of the Waters in 1830. — Anecdote. — Excursion on the Lake lo Thoun.

Letter XVI

Conspiracy discovered. — The Austrian Government and the French Carlists. — Walk to La Lorraine. — Our old friend " Ture." — Conversation with M. W . — View of the Upper Alps. — Jerome Bonaparte at La Lorraine. — The Bears of Berne. — Scene on the Plateforme. I9W

Letter XVII

Our Voiturier and his Horses. — A Swiss Diligence. — Morat. — Inconstancy of seeling. — Our Route to Vevey. — Lake Leman. — Difficulty in hiring a House.—" Mon Repos " engaged for a month. — Vevey. — Tne great Square. — The Town-house. — Environs of Vevey. — Summer Church and Winter Church. — Clergy of the Canton. — Population ol Vaud. — Elective qualifications of Vaud.

Letter XVIII

Neglect os the Vine in America — Drunkenness in France. — Cholera especially fatal to Drunkards. — The Soldier's and the Sailor's Vice. — Sparkling Champagne and Still Champagne — Excessive Price of these Wines in America. — Burgundy. — Proper soil for the Vine. — Anecdote. — Vines of Vevey. — The American Fox-grape . 218

Letter XIX

The Leman Lake.— Excursions on it. — The coast of Savoy. —Grandeur and beauty ofthe Rocks. — Sunset. — Evening Scene. — American Families residing on the banks of the Lake. — Conversation with a VÆvaisan on the subject of America. — The Nullification Question. — America misrepresented in Europe. — Rowland Stephenson in the United States. — Unworthy arts to bring America into disrepute. — Blunders of Europe in respect of America. — The Kentnckians. — Foreign Associations in the States. — Illiberal Opinions of many Americans — Prejudices. .

Letter XX

The Equinox.— Storm on the Lake. — Chase of a little Boat— Chateau of Blonay. — Drive to Lausanne. — Mont Benon. — Trip lo Geneva in the Winkelried. — Improvements in Geneva— Russian Travellers. — M. Pozzo di Borgo.— Table d'hdte.— Extravagant Affirmations of a Frenchman. — Conversation with a Scotchman. CONTENTS. XI PAGE 253 271 278 — American Duels. — Visit at a Swiss Country-house. — English Customs affected in America. — Social Intercourse in the United States. — Difference between a European and an American Foot and Hand. — Violent Gale. — Sheltered position of Vevey,. — Pro menade. — Picturesque View. — The great Square. — Invitation. — Mountain Excursion. — An American Lieutenant. — Anecdote. — Extensive Prospect. — Chateau of Glayrole 240

Letter XXI

Embark in the Winkelried. — Discussion with an Englishman. — The Valais. — Free Trade. — The Drance. — Terrible Inundation. — Liddes. — Mountain Scenery. — .A Mountain Basin. — Dead-houses. — Melancholy Spectacle. — Approach of Night. — Desolate Region. — Convent of the Great St. Bernard. — Our Reception there. — Unhealthiness of the Situation. — The Superior. — Conversation during Supper. — Coal-mine on the Mountain. — Night in the Convent. .

Letter XXII

Sublime Desolation. — A Morning Walk. — The Col. — A Lake. — Site of a Roman Temple. — Enter Italy. — Dreary Monotony. — Return to the Convent. — Tasteless Character of the Building. — Its Origin and Purposes. — The Dead-house. — Dogs of St. Bernard. — The Chapel. — Desaix interred here. — Fare of St. Bernard, and Deportment of the Monks. — Leave the Convent. — Our Guide's Notion of the Americans. — Passage of Napoleon across the Great | St. Bernard. — Similar Passages in former times. — Transport of Artillery up the Precipices. — Napoleon's perilous Accident. — Return to VÆvey . . *263

Letter XXIII

Democracy in America and in Switzerland. — European Prejudices. — Influence of Property. — Nationality of the Swiss. — Want of Local Attachments in Americans. — Swiss Republicanism. — Political Crusade against America. — Affinities between America and Russia.— Feeling of the European Powers towards Switzerland.

Letter XXIV

The Swiss Mountain Passes. — Excursion in the neighbourhood of Vevey. — Castle of Blonay. — View from the Terrace. — Memory and Hope. — Great Antiquity of Blonay. — The Knight's Hall. — Prospect from the Balcony. — Departure from Blonay. — A Modern Chateau. — Travelling on Horseback. — News from America. — Dissolution ofthe Union predicted. — The Prussian Polity. — Despotism in Prussia

Letter XXV

Controversy respecting America. — Conduct of American Diplomatists. — Attaches to American Legations.— Unworthy Slate of Public Opinion in America. . . . . . . . CONTENTS. XII PACE •_".i 1 804

Letter XXVI

Approach os Winter.— The Livret.— Regulations respecting Servants. — Servants in America. — Governments ofthe different Cantons of Switzerland. — Engagement of Mercenaries. — Population of Switzerland.— Physical Peculiarities of the Swiss. — Women of'Switzerland. — Mrs. Trollope and the American Ladies. — Affected manner of speaking in American Women. — Patois in America. — Peculiar manner of Speaking at VeVey. — Swiss Cupidity. .

Letter XXVII

Departure from Vevey. — Passage down the Lake. — Arrival at Geneva. — Purchase of Jewellery. — Leave Geneva. — Ascent ofthe Jura. — Alpine Views. — Rudeness at the Custom-house — Smuggling. — A Smuggler detected. — The second Custom-house. — Final View of Mont Blanc. — Re-enter France. — Our luck at the Posthouse in D6le. — A Scotch Traveller. — Nationality ofthe Scotch. — Road towards Troyes. — Source of the Seine.

Letter XXVIII

Miserable Inn. — A French Bed. — Free Trade. — French Relics. — Cross Roads. — Arrival at Lagrange. — Reception by General Lafayette. — Tbe Nullification Strife. — Conversation with Lafayette. — His Opinion as to a Separation of the Union in America. — The Slave Question. — Stability of the Union. — Style of living at La Grange. — Pap. — French Manners, and the French Cuisine. — Departure from La Grange. — Return to Paris RESIDENCE IN FRANCE.

Letter I

Influence ofthe late Revolution in France. — General Lafayette. — Sketch ol his Private Life. — My visits to him. — His opinion of Louis XVI. — Mr. Morris and Mr. Crawford. — Duplicity of Louis XVIII.— Charles X.— Marie Antoinette. — Legitimacy of the Due de Bordeaux. — Discovery of the Plot of 1822. — Lafayette's conduct on that occasion. — A negro Spy. — General Knyphausen. — Louis-Philippe and Lafayette. — My visit to Court. — The King, the Queen, Madame Adelaide, and the Princesses. — Marshal Jourdan. — The Duke of Orleans. — Interview with the King. — " Adieu I'Amerique ."' — Conversation vvith Lafayette. — The Juste Milieu. — Monarchy not inconsistent with Republican Institutions. — Party in savour of the Due de Bordeaux. Paris, February, 1832. Dear , Your speculations concerning the influence of the late re volution, on the social habits of the French, are more ingenious than true.

While the mass of this nation has obtained less than they hada right to expect by the severe political con vulsions they have endured, during the last forty years, they have, notwithstanding, gained something in their rights ; and, what is of far more importance, they have gained in a better appreciation of those rights, as well as in the knowledge of the means to turn them to a profitable and practical account. The end will show essential improvements in their condition, or rather the present time shows it already. The change in polite society has been less favourable, although even this is slowly gaining in morals, and in a healthier tone of thought. LAFAYETTE. 2 No error can be greater, than that of believing France has en dured so much, without a beneficial return. In making up my opinions of the old regime, I have had constant recourse to General Lafayette for information.

The conversations and anecdotes already sent you, will have prepared you for the sine tone, and perfect candour, with which he speaks even of his bitterest enemies ; nor can I remember, in the many confidential and frank communications with ■which I have been favoured, a single instance where, there has been the smallest reason to suspect he has viewed men through the medium of personal antipathies and prejudices. The candour and simplicity of his opinions form beautiful features in his character ; and the bienseance of his mind (if one may use such an expression) throws a polish over his harshest strictures, that is singularly adapted to obtain credit for his judgment. Your desire to know more of the private life of this ex traordinary man, is quite natural ; but he has been so long before the public, that it is not easy to say anything new.

I may, however, give you a trait or two, to amuse you. I have seen more of him this winter than the last, owing to the circumstance of a committee of Americans, that have been appointed to administer succour to the exiled Poles, meeting weekly at my house, and it is rare indeed that he is not present on these benevolent occasions. He has discon tinued his own soirees, too ; and, having fewer demands on his time, through official avocations, I gain admittance to him during his simple and quiet dinners, whenever it is asked. These dinners, indeed, are our usual hours of meeting, for the occupations of the General, in the Chamber, usually keep him engaged in the morning ; nor ami commonly at leisure, myself, until about this hour of the day. In Paris, every one dines, nominally, at six ; but the deputies being often detained a little later, whenever I wish to see him, I hurry from my HIS APARTMENTS. 3 own table, and generally reach the Rue d'Anjou in sufficient season to find him still at his.

On quitting the Hotel de l'Etat Major, after being dismissed so unceremoniously from the command of the National Guard, Lafayette returned to his own neat but simple lodgings in the Rue d'Anjou. The hotel, itself, is one of some pretensions, but his apartments, though quite sufficient for a single person, are not among the best it contains, lying on the street, which ig rarely or never the case with the principal rooms. The passage to them communicates with the great staircase, and the door is one of those simple, retired entrances that, in Paris, so frequently open on the abodes of some of the most illustrious men of the age. Here have I seen princes, mar shals, and dignitaries of all degrees, ringing for admission, no one appearing to thing of aught but the great man within. These things are permitted here, where the mind gets accustomed to weigh in the balance all the different claims to distinction ; but it would scarcely do in a country, in which the pursuit of money is the sole and engrossing concern of life ; a show of expenditure becoming necessary to maintain it.

The apartments of Lafayette consist of a large ante-chamber, two salons, and an inner room, where he usually sits and writes, and in which, of late, he has had his bed. These rooms are en suite, and communicate, laterally, with one or two more, and the offices. His sole attendants in town, are the German valet, named Bastien, who accompanied him in his last visit to America, the footman who attends him with the carriage, and theco achman (there may be a cook, but I never saw a female in the apartments). Neither wears a li very,although all his appointments, carriages, horses, and fur niture, are those of a gentleman. One thing has struck me as a little singular. Notwithstanding his strong attachment to America and to her usages, Lafayette, while the practice is getting to be common in Paris , has not adopted the use of itt\ VlblTS TO LAFAYETTE 4 carpets.

I do not remember to have seen one, at La Grange, or in town. When I show myself at the door, Bastien, who usually acts as porter, and who has become quite a diplomatist in these matters, makes a sign of assent, and intimates that the General is at dinner. Of late, he commonly dispenses with the ceremony of letting it be known who has come, but I am at once ushered into the bed-room. Here I sind Lafayette seated at a table, just large enough to contain one cover and a single dish ; or a table, in other words, so small as to be covered with a napkin. His little white lap-dog is his only companion. As it is always understood that I have dined, no ceremony is used, but I take a seat at the chimney corner, while he goes on with his dinner. His meals are quite frugal, though good ; a poulet roti invariably making one dish.

There are two or three removes, a dish at a time, and the dinner usually concludes with some preserves or dried fruits, especially dates, of which he is extremely fond. I generally come in for one or two of the latter. All this time, the conversation is on what has transpired in the Chambers during the day, the politics of Europe, nullification in America, or the gossip of the chateau, of which he is singularly well informed, though he has ceased to go there. The last of these informal interviews with General Lafayette, was one of peculiar interest. I generally sit but half an hour, leaving him to go to his evening engagements, which, by the way, are not frequent ; but, on this occasion, he told me to remain, and I passed nearly two hours with him. We chatted a good deal of the state of society under the old regime.

Curious to know his opinions of their private characters, I asked a good many questions concerning the royal family. Louis XVI. he described as a well-meaning man, addicted a little too much to the pleasures of the table, but who would have done well enough had he not been LOUIS XVIII. 5 surrounded by bad advisers. I was greatly surprised by one of his remarks. " Louis XVI," observed Lafayette, "owed his death as much to the bad advice of Gouverneur Morris, as to any one other thing." You may be certain I did not let this opinion go unquestioned ; for, on all other occasions, in speaking of Mr. Morris, his language had been kind and even grateful. He explained himself, by adding, that Mr. Morris, coming from a country like America, was listened to with great respect, and that on all occasions he gave his opinions against democracy, advising resistance, when resistance was not only too late but dangerous.

He did not call in question the motives of Mr. Morris, to which he did full justice, but merely affirmed that he was a bad adviser. He gave me to understand that the representatives of America had not always been faithful to the popular principle, and even went into details that it would be improper for me to repeat. I have mentioned this opinion of Mr. Morris, because his aristocratical sentiments were no secret, because they were mingled with no expressions of personal severity, and because I have heard them from other quarters. He pronounced a strong eulogium on the conduct of Mr. Crawford, which he said was uniformly such as became an American minister. There is nothing, however, novel in these instances, of our representatives proving untrue to the prominent feeling of the country, on the subject of popular rights.

It is the sub ject of very frequent comment in Europe, and sometimes of complaint on the part of those who are struggling for what they conceive to be their just privileges ; many of them having told me, personally, that our agents frequently stand ma terially in their way. Louis XVIII, Lafayette pronounced to be the falsest man he had ever met with ; to use his own expression, " F homme le plus faux." He gave him credit for a great deal of talent, but added that his duplicity was innate, and not the result of his position, for it was known to his young associates, in early CHARLES X. 6 youth, and that they used lo say among themselves, as young men, and in their ordinary gaieties, that it would be unsafe to confide in the Comte de Provence. Of Charles X he spoke kindly, giving him exactly a different character.

He thought him the most honest of the three brothers, though quite unequal to the crisis in wiiich he had been called to reign. He believed him sincere in his religious professions, and thought the charge of his being a professed Jesuit by no means improbable. Marie Antoinette he thought an injured woman. On the subject of her reputed gallantries he spoke cautiously, pre mising lhat, as an American, I ought to make many allowances for a state of society, that was altogether unknown in our country. Treating this matter wilh the discrimination of a man of the world, and the delicacy ofa gentleman, he added that he entirely exonerated her from all ofthe coarse charges that had proceeded from vulgar clamour, while he admitted that she had betrayed a partiality for a young Swede* that was, at least, indiscreet for one in her situation, though he had no reason to believe her attachment had led her to the length of criminality.

I asked his opinion concerning the legitimacy of the Due de Bordeaux, but he treated the rumour to the contrary, as one of those miserable devices to which men resort to effect the ends of party, and as altogether unworthy of serious at tention. I was amused with the simplicity with which he spoke of his own efforts to produce a change of government, during the last reign. On this subject he bad been equally frank even before the recent revolution, though there would have been a manifest impropriety in my repeating what had then passed between us. This objection is now removed in part, and I may recount one of his anecdotes, though I can never impart * A Count Koaing.markc. PLOT OF 1822. 7 to it the cool and quiet humour with which it was related. We were speaking of the attempt of 1822, or the plot which existed in the army.

In reply to a question of mine, he said — " Well, I was to have commanded in that revolution, and when the time came, I got into my carriage, without a passport, and drove across the country to , where I obtained post-horses, and proceeded as fast as possible towards . At , a courier met me, with the unhappy intelligence that our plot was discovered, and that several of our principal agents were arrested. I was advised to push for the frontier, as fast as I could. But we turned round in the road, and I went to Paris, and took my seat in the Chamber of Deputies. They looked very queer, and a good deal surprised when they saw me, and I believe they were in great hopes that I had run away. The party of the ministers were loud in their accusations against the opposition for encouraging treason, and Perier and Constant, and the rest of them, made indignant appeals against such unjust accusations.

I took a different course. I went into the tribune, and invited the ministers to come and give a history of my political life ; of my changes and treasons, as they called them ; and said that when they had got through, I would give the character and history of theirs. This settled the matter, for I heard no more from them." I inquired if he had not felt afraid of being arrested and tried. " Not much," was his answer. " They knew I denied the right of foreigners to impose a government on France, and they also knew they had not kept faith with France under the charter. I made no secret of my principles, and frequently put letters unsealed into the post office, in which I had used the plainest language about the government. On tbe whole, I believe they were more afraid of me than I was of them."