Narrative of a journey to the Zoolu Country, in South Africa ... undertaken in 1835

Front matter

CZj.nn.KncUt.S~- fiMMUihediy ?lf&rrf&? t^rz^zoery ham*. NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY TO THE ZOOLU COUNTKY, IN SOUTH AFRICA. BY CAPTAIN ALLEN F. GARDINER, R.N. UNDERTAKEN IN 1835. LONDON: WILLIAM CROFTS, CHANCERY LANE, 1836. LONDON : SstADBURY \NU FVANS, PRINTERS, \TI1H I'.FRIARS PREFACE, To a volume of this description no further preface appears to be necessary than to account for the maps and the drawings by which it is illustrated, and to state the right pronunciation of the native words which occur. With respect to the former, the coast lines have been taken from Arrowsmith's map enlarged, and the remainder is filled up generally from personal observation, which I believe to be tolerably accurate ; at least as nearly so as my mode of travelling and want of proper instruments — frequently even a watch to regulate time — would admit. The plates are from sketches taken on the spot, but, in many instances, reduced to suit the size ofthe present volume.

Preface

. IV In the orthography of native terms, the a is to be pronounced broad, unless distinguished by a short mark, as in Tugala, pronounced Tugayla. The u is always pronounced as in French. Some clicks occasionally occur, as in the proper name Tpai, between the T and the p, but as there was a difficulty in expressing them, they have been omitted throughout. ZOOLU COUNTRY.

Chapter I

It is not with a view to recount my personal adventures that the following narrative is now offered to the public, nor was it for the mere novelty of travelling that I determined on a visit to South Africa ; far otherwise was the object of my journey — an endeavour, under the blessing of God, to open a way whereby the ministers of the gospel might find access to the Zoolu nation, and be the means of introducing true religion, civilisation, and industry, into those benighted regions. That many who may take the trouble to pass through these pages will be disappointed I have no doubt ; they will look in vain for that description of information so interesting to the student of natural history, and so eminently adapted to raise the mind with adoring gratitude to the all-wise and bounteous God of the universe, but for the development of which the author is aware that he is not competent.

His single aim, he trusts, has been the glory of God, and if, after the indulgent perusal of the facts he shall narrate, a more ardent zeal for the instruction of our fellow-creatures in the truths of Christi anity, and a more sincere personal devotion of time and energy to the cause of Christian Missions, especially in Southern Africa, shall be induced, he shall deem that he has not written in vain, but thank God, and take courage. It was my intention to have confined myself strictly to the words of my travelling journal, but this, in part, has now become impossible, as a considerable portion, including the whole period from my landing at Cape Town to my return to Port Natal, after my first visit to the Zoolu country has been lost. Without this, there would be evidently a want of connexion, and this deficiency I shall endeavour to supply to the best of my ability ; but, as much that it contained has now entirely escaped my memory, I trust, under the peculiar disadvantages with which I commence my task, great allowance will be made.

With this explanation, I now proceed to give a brief out line of the occurrences during the period alluded to. On the 26th of August, 1834, I left Spithead, on board the Wellington, Captain Liddle, bound for the Cape and Madras, and eventually sailed from Falmouth on the 6th of September. From the evening of the 20th to the afternoon of the 23rd, we were at anchor in Funchal Roads, Madeira, and reached Table Bay on the 13th of November. During the passage, I made a most agreeable acquaintance in Mr. Berken, a Polish gentle man of high family and character, and who, from the political circumstances of his country, had been deprived of a great part of his property. On reaching the Cape, he waived his original intention of proceeding as an emigrant to New South Wales, and agreed to accompany me to Graham's Town, partly with a desire to ascertain how far it would be advisable to make that neighbourhood the scene ofthe agricultural pursuits which he had ultimately in view.

Determined to travel as lightly and expeditiously as possible, we distributed our baggage upon three horses, on which we and our guide were also mounted, and in this Don Quixote manner we left Cape Town on the evening of Thursday the 20th, sleeping the first night at Stellenbosch. Saturday and Sunday we remained at Genadenthal ; and I have never been more gratified than in witnessing the industry, the order, and, above all, the genuine piety which seems to pervade this favoured insti tution. It was Sacrament Sunday; all, both mission aries and people, appeared in white dresses ; and many of the latter seated in groups in front ofthe church, or under the shade of the luxuriant oak trees, where from considerable distances they had assembled, were observed at a very early hour, awaiting the opening of the doors.

From Mr. Halbec, the superintendent, we received the greatest kindness, and early on the 24th resumed our journey. The following Sunday was passed at Uitenhage, said to be the most healthy, and, certainly, one of the prettiest towns in this country. It is supplied with abundance of water — every house stands in a garden, while B JOURXEY TO THE a range of neighbouring mountains not only interests the eye, but creates a cooling breeze, without being near enough to reflect their heat. The next day, Decem ber 2nd, we rode to Bethelsdorp, with which I must own I was much disappointed — perhaps the recent visit to Genadenthal might have contributed to this feeling ; but in so old a Missionary Establishment I had anticipated a greater progress. On the 4th, we reached Graham's Town, and I immediately commenced making arrange ments for the journey beyond the frontier, by purchasing waggons, oxen, &c, some horses having already been pro cured on the road.

Everything was completed by the 12th; and on the afternoon of that day I left Graham's town, still accom panied by my friend, who, anxious to see something of the interior, proposed continuing with me until we reached some of the nearest Missionary Stations in Kafirland. With two new waggons properly appointed, thirty oxen, and seven horses, accompanied by a young man named George Cyrus, as an interpreter, we commenced this long journey ; and, as it soon afterwards appeared, it was a happy circumstance that such despatch in the equipment had been made, for, had we been delayed but two days longer, the Kafir war, then on the eve of breaking out, would have entirely precluded the possibility of crossing the frontier. While at the Missionary Station on the Buffalo river (now King William's Town), an unpleasant circumstance took place.

One of my people, a Bechuana who was in charge ofthe oxen, reported that the whole of the cattle had been driven off by the natives, and that it was with the greatest difficulty he had escaped with out the loss of all his clothes, which they had endea voured to purloin. On this intelligence, I went imme diately, with my interpreter, to Tchatchou, the chief, acquainted him with what had occurred, and informed him that, as a stranger, quietly passing through his ter ritory, I should look to him to investigate the case, and recover the cattle. The old man soon gave directions to one of his principal warriors to accompany me for this purpose, and furnishing him with a horse, on which he vaidted, without either saddle or bridle, guiding him only by the halter, off we both set at full speed, followed by my interj)reter on another horse ; and although it was raining during the whole time, we scoured the country for two hours, before my warlike companion thought it desirable to visit the spot where this untoward circumstance had taken place.

This was a secluded dell, in which were two huts, almost concealed by rocks and bushes, and near which a small brook was flowing. The military talent of our hero was here displayed. While we had been in chase of every horned animal that appeared on the surrounding hills, he had ordered a well armed party to proceed directly to the spot we had now reached, and on our approach the hamlet was formally invested. We drew up in front, the chief holding a single assegai in his hand, while his people, who had come on foot, each with an ample bundle of these destructive missiles, stood near, in an attitude of preparation. The men were then ordered to leave the huts, on which they advanced to a small ridge of rocks facing us, the women standing in groupes about the houses, while a catechetical inquiry was made respecting the loss of the oxen.

Although the accuser was present for the purpose of identification, and he actually pointed out the individuals who had driven off the cattle, still so adroitly was the blame shifted from one to another, that, tired with the length of the parley, and annoyed at the utter hopelessless of eliciting truth, I resolved to refer the final decision to Tchatchou himself ; and we accordingly returned to the Missionary Station. Although I had apparently effected nothing, the promp titude of the appeal to the chief had so alarmed the thieves, that, during my absence, the whole of the oxen had been driven back, and on my arrival were found snugly deposited in the cattle fold. Anxious to avoid unnecessary delay, I requested Tchatchou would assemble his Amapakati (council) betimes ; but although all were duly seated in a circle in the open air by eight o'clock, and the business at once commenced upon, at least two hours were consumed in putting and answering the most roundabout questions, till at last they so puzzled and frightened my unfortunate Bechuana (Solomon), that he was obliged to submit to a fine in clothes and tobacco, for having, as they termed it, " smeared them," viz. defamed their character by representing them as thieves.

Tchat chou is a most arrant beggar — having expended all his eloquence in persuading Mr. Berkin to present him with a pair of shoes, he finished by observing, that he wore two — why then could he not spare him one? His idea of an umbrella was somewhat curious — my friend having inadver tently left his own, a messenger was despatched from the chief to inquire if he intended to leave his house behind. Not far from this station is a stream called the Yellowwood River, near which we had spanned out for our mid-day's halt, but it was soon apparent from the threatening attitude of the natives, who were collecting in great numbers, and by no means civil, that an attack was meditated. At this time I was seated under a tree on the opposite side of the river to the waggons, occupied with writing some memoranda, but my fancied retirement was soon broken in upon by a crowd collecting round me.

Anticipating their intention, I immediately sent off directions to collect the oxen and span in as soon as possible, but to be careful not to show the least symptom of alarm or hurry. Something however was absolutely necessary to divert their attention in the mean time, and happily my pen-knife, which for peace' sake I had consigned to the hand of one of the natives, who had made frequent signs for it to disencumber his chin, had to his great disappointment proved ineffectual. The idea immediately occurred, that, could I succeed in thoroughly shaving this man, the whole current of feeling might be changed in our favour. With this expectation I placed him on the trunk of the tree on which I had been sitting, and, in spite of the red ochre with which he was liberally smeared, applied the soap suds and the razor to such good effect that in a very short time his barbe of many years' growth was entirely removed.

To follow up the interest and excitement which this unusual operation had occasioned, a glass was exhibited, that the patient himself might have ocular demonstration of the effect, but to my great dismay he pointed to his upper lip, and seemed sadly disappointed that any portion of mustachio had survived the operation. All that remained in this dilemma was to assure him that such was the usual costume of many of our English warriors : happily for me this explanation sufficed, for in the state to which my razor had now been reduced, had anything further been required it would have been an utter impossibility to have complied with his wishes. In perfect good humour the whole party then accompanied me to the waggons, but here the tempest was still on the ascendant, and to my no small disappointment the necessary preparations for moving off were not yet completed.

Many of the expressions which were uttered were sufficiently ominous, and here for the first time we were informed by them of the awkward posture of affairs on the frontier. "One of our chiefs," they exclaimed, "Tchali's brother, has been killed by the white men, and we are resolved that no more white men shall enter our country ; those who are now here shall remain, but not one more shall come in "—intimating that they would murder all now within their territory. One angry word at this moment would have been fatal to us all. As a dernier resort, and to eke out the time till the waggons were ready, I proposed that they should treat us with a war song, with the pro mise of some tobacco at the conclusion. This happily had the desired effect, while it embodied the current of their feelings, it acted at the same time like a safety-valve: they stormed and raved, and to the extent of their lungs declared that " No white man shall drink our milk, No white man shall eat the bread of our children, Ho-how — Ho-how — Ho-how."

This complimentary couplet was so often and so vehe mently repeated, that ample time was afforded for inspanning the oxen of both waggons, and on the first glimpse of the tobacco their ire was so much subdued that they sullenly said that we might pass, but we were the last that should. During all this time the crowd had been increasing, and when we crossed the river there could not have been less than two or three hundred men, besides women ; it was one of those merciful escapes in which the hand of a gracious God is so eminently conspicuous, and for which we have great and lasting cause to be thankful. During our progress through the Amakosa tribes we occasionally stopped at the traders' stations, wretched mud-built hovels, and in so filthy a state, that my surprise is that any of the inmates ever escaped the most malig nant fevers.

Contented with two rooms, they inhabited one while the other (the partition of which as though purposely constructed to admit the effluvia, did not reach within several feet of the roof,) was piled nearly to the rafters with a collection of hides and horns, the former in all the intermediate stages from the green to the pickled. Such an odoriferous melange of garbage, fat, and filth was perhaps never before compacted into so small a compass, yet were these people seemingly happy, and sipped their tea and their coffee, and offered the same to every stranger that passed, with as much frankness and disregard to their olfactory nerves as though the walls were of cedar and their floors carpeted with lavender and roses. Nothing so soon dissipates a romantic dream as one of these charnel-houses, and never shall I forget the sudden check which was given to the current of my thoughts induced by the beauty of the scenery, through which I was riding one lovely evening, by the shout of a wild looking Kafir woman emerging from the bushes with a pair of bullocks' horns extended in each hand, eagerly offering them for sale.

On learning that I was not a trader, she reluctantly returned to her hut disappointed, and doubtless despising me in her heart. Both at Butterworth and Morley, two of the Wesleyan Missionary Stations through which we passed, we were received with great kindness by the Missionaries, Messrs. Ayliffe and Palmer, and their respective families. Educa tion was evidently progressing, and scriptural knowledge gradually but steadily imparting that light and life which is the attribute of Him alone who hath said, "My word which goeth forth out of my mouth shall not return unto me void ; but it shall accomplish that which I please, and it shall prosper in the thing whereto I send it." Their buildings were rude but sufficient ; generally wattled and plastered with mud, and neatly white-washed, and, sur rounded by a collection of bee-hive huts, like an oasis in the desert, stood up the salutary mementos of civilisation in a barbarous land.

May their hands be strengthened, and many more labourers enter the field ! Finding that we were but a day's ride from the next Missionary Esta blishment " Bunting," the waggons were sent round as usual, while we crossed the Umtata by a shorter route, and, entering the Amaponda country, reached the station on that evening, and were kindly welcomed by Mr. Satchell, Wesleyan Missionary. During our progress through the Amakosa Tribes the greatest vigilance was necessary to prevent the loose articles about the waggons from being stolen, and so quiet and unexpected were their approaches on these occasions, that on awaking at day-light I have frequently espied a Kafir leaving his lurking place beside the waggon, and that in a spot purposely selected as the furthest from all habitations. Happily these precautions were now needless ; no nightly watch is required among the Amapondas, and had all our valuables been showed on the ground, not one of them would probably have changed its owner.

Although we had already met with what, in Europe, would not improperly be termed difficulties, still, until entering this mountainous district, we were comparatively uninitiated into the toils and troubles of African waggon travelling, no less than three days having been occupied in towing our heavy " omniums" to the heights of the Umzimvoobo, a distance, which, by a shorter route, I was enabled to ride in a few hours. Here another more formidable difficulty presented itself; the river, about the size of the Thames at Kew, was full, and for some days had been impassable, and as this was the rainy season, we were given to understand that we were likely to be impeded for some time on the banks of two other large rivers on the way to Port Natal. Already tired of the slow progress we were making, and anxious to obviate, if possible, these protracted delays, I resolved to pack a sufficient number of oxen, and proceed with them on horse back, leaving the waggons to follow as they could.

For this purpose I returned to Bunting, but although hide sacks were prepared, noses bored, and oxen practised, all was unavailing, for on setting out from the bivouac still upon the Umzimvoobo heights, and certainly overlooking one of the most enchanting views I have ever beheld, many of the burdens were ejected within a few hundred yards of the spot, and, for want of proper pack-saddles, it became evident that nothing but damage could be effected by this means. As the river was still high horses were substituted for oxen, and in a couple of days more every preparation was completed. In one of these rides backwards and forwards to the Umzimvoobo I met with a curious rencontre. It had been reported in the morning that Faku, the ruling chief of the Amapondas, was going out to war, and when on the heights about two miles from his residence, a large body of armed people appeared to occupy the very ridge over which I had to pass.

The sun had set, and it was too dark to ascertain their actual numbers or movements, but from the hurried manner in which they were at this moment joined by another party rapidly descending a neighbouring hill, there was every reason to suppose that they were either on the eve of a battle, or in actual conflict. Being only attended by a native servant, I thought it would be but prudent to edge off a little from the path before we came upon them, in order to avoid passing too near ; but, unable to explain my wishes in time, I rode on, well knowing the ill effects of even the appearance of hesitation in a time of danger. It was an animating sight ; we passed within a few paces of the principal warriors, who stood out before the main body, leaning upon their shields, decorated with their plumes and war dresses.

Many were seated round fires kindled in the centre, near which a herd of cattle were collected, evidently a recent capture. Not a word was uttered as we passed, but many women on the outskirts of the party were observed in groups seated among the thorn bushes, whispering to each other, as though anxiously awaiting the result. On my return, the following day, I found Faku sitting in great state under the shade of shields held up to pro tect his head from the sun. An immense concourse was assembled, all seated on the ground, while an interesting trial was going on ; the accused, a tall and athletic man, with a dignified appearance, whom I afterwards under stood was a " rain maker," standing before them on his personal defence. I reined in my horse, and for a few minutes stopped to observe this truly characteristic scene, being much struck with the coolness and manly bearing of the defendant, who still proceeded in his harangue.

On this Faku rose from the assembly, and coming up, I dismounted to receive his usual congratulation, a shake of the hand, with which he now always obliges his white friends. He was attired in a handsome leopard skin mantle, in this country the insignia of rank, which so remarkably became his tall and commanding person, that when he turned from me to resume his seat among the councillors, he looked the very beau ideal of an African chief. It appeared that the " rain maker " in question had been sadly rebellious ; and in consequence of his cus tomary presents in cattle having for some time been withheld, had plainly declared his intention of restrain ing the clouds, and thereby preventing the rain from falling. For this high misdemeanour the armed party which I fell in with yesterday had been ordered to secure his person, and seize upon his cattle ; and he was now permitted to plead his own cause, — the issue of which would be either life or death.

I have since understood that he was acquitted. It is a singular coincidence, that this affair took place but a few days subsequent to a conversation which I had with Faku on that very subject, which was elicited by his asking me to procure rain. On that occasion he also gave me what no doubt he deemed very wholesome advice, informing me that the Zoolus were " an angry people — that they would kill me— and that I had better not enter their country." Mr. Berken having finally determined to extend his journey to Port Natal, now kindly proposed taking charge of the waggons, and bringing them on as fast as the rivers, &c, would admit. On the 14th of January he accompanied me to the opposite bank of the Umzimvoobo, now fordable, where for the present we parted, much to my regret ; and with five horses, three packed, the other two for myself and my interpreter, and two natives, I set forward to traverse a country uninhabited for nearly one hundred and eighty miles.

Although our pro gress was more rapid than by the former mode, it soon became evident that the small quantity of provisions which could be carried upon the pack-horses, one of which was laden with a bell-tent, would not suffice even for our reduced party. I therefore determined to push forward with my interpreter to a small village, described to be but a short distance on the other side of the Umzimcoolu, and within a day's journey on horseback from the spot where we then were. The waggon track, they said, would direct ; and as it generally followed the line of coast, occasionally descending to the beach, there could be little danger of losing the way. All this seemed so far feasible ; and as the account of Calichana, one of my servants, was corroborated by two natives, whom we met about this time on their way from Port Natal to the Amaponda country, I set out as light as possible on Monday the 20th, but a more disagreeable journey I never had.

The first dif ficulty was to find the continuation of the road (if such a few waggon tracks might be termed), after descending to the beach, where all traces of wheels were of course entirely obliterated, and which was no easy matter, where hippopotami paths worn though the sand-hills, and tangled vegetation, were not only numerous, but frequently more inviting than the overgrown avenues we should have threaded. On one of these occasions, as it might be expected, we did not discover the error until, guided by the huge tenants of these jungles, we found ourselves in the very heart of a morass, and, strange to say, at the same instant, although widely apart, both horses sunk to their haunches. In both instances it was a work of labour to set them again upon their feet ; but my poor mare was so completely embedded, that it was only by the process of mining, and that with our hands, and eventually applying leather thongs to each fetlock, and heaving each limb separately out by main force, that she was at length extricated from a spot where she had left a perfect cast of her own dimensions.

But still we were off the road — the night was approaching, and by wandering further we might only increase the difficulty ; as soon, therefore, as we had reached a situation which might safely be called terra firma, I selected the most eligible bush, and knee haltering the horses, prepared for our nightly bivouac, when just at this time, to my great relief, the road was discovered at no great distance. The night proved rainy, and I rose completely drenched. We had already passed several rivers, and on the following day reached the banks of one, which, from its size and rapidity, there could be no doubt was the Umzimcoolu. Finding it impassable at the mouth, I rode round, guided by a footpath, to an upper ford, about three miles distant, but even then, appeared no possibility of getting across.

Returning to the former station we both endeavoured, by wading among the rocks and sand banks, to discover a passage, but without success. A very reduced allowance of biscuit and cheese, with a little brandy, had been my only fare since leaving the baggage, and even this was now entirely expended ; however we slept well under the shade of some strelitza trees (very similar to wild banana) having shared the last morsel of cheese to the very rind, which constituted our frugal supper. Scarcely had daylight appeared the next morning, than every expedient was resorted to for the supply of our wants. The hook of my horse's curb chain was bent and sharpened ; strands of rope were unlaid for a fishing line, the ground was ransacked for worms and the rocks for muscles to be employed as bait — but one of the latter only was found, and either scared by or despising our novel fishing tackle, not one of the finny tribe could be induced to bite.

Equally unhappy were all our endeavours to waylay the hippopotami, whose provoking traces were so fresh when we awoke, that, from the marks they had left in the sand, they covdd not have passed many yards from our retreat. Even tlie birds deserted us, and all that my interpreter could procure with his gun was three sand larks, which I did not taste. The next morning, the 22nd, it occurred to me that it would be advisable to ascertain once more the state of the river at the upper ford ; and with this intention, I mounted my horse, but, on approaching the spot, I can hardly express my joy and surprise at perceiving Sol, mon, the c Bechuana lad, perched like a monkey upon tlie back of one of the baggage horses, and midway in the stream urging the animal to the opposite bank. On perceiving that the river was fordable, I merely directed them to await my return, and rode back with all speed to communicate the joyful news, and offer a prayer of thanks to the Author. of all our mercies.

It was long before we were all across — my poor mare sank in a quicksand when about half way, and, being too weak to extricate herself, was obliged to be shot to avoid the inevitable fate of drowning, on the rise of the tide which flows above this point ; and before we could proceed beyond the thick belt of high reeds which margins the stream on both sides, so heavy a shower de scended, that in a few minutes we were all thoroughly wet. Nothing could have been more providential than my visiting the upper ford at the time I did ; had it been but a quarter of an hour earlier they would not have arrived — had it been as much later, both would have passed, and they would have proceeded, as they said, straight for Port Natal, concluding that we were still in advance. That we also might have found our way to Port Natal is not im probable, had we not been famished by the way.