Sunshine and Storm in the East; or, Cruises to Cyprus and Constantinople ... With upwards of 100 illustrations, chiefly from drawings by the Hon. A. Y. Bingham

Front matter

f SUNSHINE AND STORM IN THE EAST. LONDON : PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE AND PARLIAMENT STREET Map showing TRACKS of the YACHT !'SUNBEAM 1874 ... 1H7M Cir ..gr*|.lii.-.il Mflefl ' '_. fo 5vi -So 5_r» 1H7 _ 5 thus 1B7R HEADQUARTERS, NIKOSTA ./// risrhts reserved. SUNSHINE and STORM in the EAST, or CRUISES to CYPRUS AND CONSTANTINOPLE. BY MRS BRASSEY, AUTHOR OF 'A VOYAGE IN THE SUNBEAM.' WITH UPWARDS OF IOO ILLUSTRA T IONS HIEFLY FROM DRAWINGS BY T H li HON. A. Y. BINGHAM. Disembarkation ofthe Sultan at Mosqut at Fundukh LONDON LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO 1880. DEDICATION. £ o the BRAVE TRUE-HEARTED SAILORS OF ENGLAND, OF ALL RANKS AND SERVICES, (L b t s e |jagies are ,tleuir.un&. I love the sailor : his eventful life, His generous spirit — his contempt of danger — His firmness in the gale, the wreck, the strife : And though a wild and reckless ocean-ranger, God grant he make that port, when life is o'er, Where storms are hushed and billows break no more.

Preface

My tables, my tables, — meet it is, I set it doom. our return from a cruise to the Arctic Circle in 1 874, after remaining but a few days in England, we started on a voyage to the East. It had always been a dream of my youth to visit Constantinople, the city of gilded palaces and mosques, of harems and romance — to skim the placid waters of the Bos phorus and the Golden Horn ; and the present time seemed to furnish an excellent opportunity to do all this, and to revisit the Ionian Islands. I con tinued my old practice of writing long journal letters home to my father, to be afterwards circulated among other relatives and more intimate friends. The PREFA CE. VIII 'Voyage in the Sunbeam' has been so kindly received that I am encouraged to present these letters also to the public. In 1878 we found ourselves once more in the Mediterranean.

This cruise included a visit to Cyprus and a second visit to Constantinople. Melancholy indeed seemed the change in the Turkish capital during the four years since our last visit — a change from all that was bright and glitter ing-to all that was dull and miserable and wretched. It may perhaps be interesting to the reader to compare impressions formed under circumstances so widely different, though the narrative must necessarily appear disjointed and disconnected on account of the intervening years. The title of the book is meant to indicate the change which had passed over Constantinople in the period between our two visits. A journal kept while cruising in the Mediterra nean, though less novel than the story of a family yachting voyage round the world, may yet present some points of interest to the man}' friendly readers of ' A Voyage in the Sunbeam.' For the design on the cover I am indebted to M. Gustave Dore. The artist seeks to convey the

PREFACE.

. IX idea that the good genii of the sea, pleased with the ' Sunbeam's ' frequent and lengthened visits to their ocean home, are spreading out before her a panorama of all the countries of the world, to tempt her to start once more for ' fresh woods and pastures new,' Constantinople and Cyprus being faintly indicated on the scroll. The illustrations are chiefly from drawings by the Hon. A. Y. Bingham ; a few are from other artists and from photographs taken by myself. They have been all engraved on wood by Mr. Pearson. ANNIE BRASSEY. Errata. Page 165, line 3, for Cecillo rend Circello. >> ,, 6, for Port d'Ango read Porto d'Anzio. 2, ,, 22, for paat read pal. 369, ,, 22, /or Allen read AWxx. CONTENTS.

PART L CONSTANTINOPLE, IONIAN ISLANDS.

(1874.) CHAPTER PACE I. Our Start — Ryde, Tangier, and Gibraltar . 1 II. Tetuan, Ceuta, and Sicily . . . .16 III. Athens, Greece, and the Archipelago . . 32 IV. Constantinople . . . . . . -51 V. The Bosphorus and its Palaces . . . . 63 VI. The Black Sea, Skutari, Broussa, Harems . 75 VII. Visits from Turkish Ladies. Feast of Bairam. Walls and Palaces of Constantinople . .101 VIII. The Sea of Marmora, Dardanelles, Smyrna, Ephesus, Chios, and Milo . . . .112 IX. Zante, Ithaca, Cephalonia, Corfu, and Albania . . . . . . . . . 131 X. Paxos, Spartivento, Messina, and Naples . .148 XL Bastia, Nice, Paris, and Home . . . . CONTENTS. XII PART Is. CYPRUS, CONSTANTINOPLE. (1878.) CHAPTER PAGE I. Portsmouth, Brest, and Vigo . . . . 175 II. Cadiz, Seville, and Gibraltar . . . -193 III. Oran and Cagliari . . . . . . 212 IV.

Naples, Pompeii, Pæstum, Capri, Messina, and Cyprus 232 V. Island of Cyprus. — Port Papho, Li.masol, Larnaka ......... 250 VI. Nikosia, Mathiati, and Famagousta . . . 264 VII. Kyrenia, Morfu, Kikko, and Karavastasia . . 290 VIII. Rhodes, Besika Bay, the Dardanelles . . 307 IX. Artaki Bay, English Fleet, and Constantinople ......... 324 X. Adrianople . . . . . . . -354 XI. Constantinople again, Gallipoli, Syra, and Milo 367 XII. Milo to Malea and Malta .... 3S7 XIIL From Malta to Marseilles 396 XIV. Home once more ....... CONTENTS. XIII

Appendix

. 1874. PAGE Log of Yacht's Homeward Journey from Nice . .411 List of our Party, Crew, and Servants . . .415 Summary of the Voyage 117 1878. List of our Party, Crew, and Servants . . . 420 Programme of the Oran Races 422 Temperature of Cyprus ....... 426 Note A 43° Note B 43 l Note C 432 Summary of the Voyage 434 Postscript 437 INDEX . . . ■ • [Engraved by G. Pearson.] MAPS. Map showing Tracks of the 'Sunbeam' in 1874-5 and 187S . . At commencement, before Frontispicec Map of the Island of Cyprus, showing the Track of the 'Sunbeam' . . At end oj Book, after Index FULL- PAGE LLLUSTRATLONS. Headquarters, Nikosia . . . Bingham . Frontispiece Dining Saloon .... Photograph To/aee p. 76 The 'Sunbeam ' in a Gale off Milo Bingham . ,, 126 Vigo Bay ..... Bingham . „ 174 Kyrenia Bingham . „ 290 Convent of La Pais . . • Bingham . ,, 292 Meeting Sir Garnet Wolseley .

Bingham . ,, 296 Naumachia at Cyzicus . . . Bingham . „ 330 Adrianople — Bridge over the ] B-,„m „ .Bingham . „ 358 1 UNJA .... WOODCUTS IN TEXT. PAGE Disembarkation of the Sultan | Photograph by Mrs. at Mosque at Fundukli . I Brassey . . Title-page A Peep through a Porthole. Mott . . . . vii A Rough Night for Boating . Bingham . . . i Cape St. Vincent . . . . Bingham . . . 7 Tangier . . . . Photograph . . 9 Bargaining in the Bazaar . . Hodgson . ..11 Moorish Musician . . . Photograph . -13 Woman of Tetuan . . . • Photograph . . . 21 Gibraltar Bingham . . .25 Deck View Photograph . . . 33 Greek Costume .... Photograph . . 38 Athens i PhotoZraPh h' Mrs- I Brassey . . . 40 Woman of Athens . . . Photograph . . 42 1 Photograph by Mrs. The Promenade at Euripo . . j Brassey 4 . Castle of Euripo . . .

I Photograph by Mrs. I Brassey . . -47 General View of Constantinople Preziosi . . 51 Tower of Hero and Leander, , in the Bosphorus . . j P^tograph ■ . • 55 Fountain St. Sophia . . . Photograph . . . 59 Turkish Waist Clasp . . . Photograph . .62 Palace of Dolmabagtcheh . . Photograph . . . I'AG Yacht's Deckhousi . . . Photograph . . . 70 Turkish Lady .... Photograph . . 74 Dancing Dervishes . . . Photograph . . . 77 ... ,, 1 Photograph bv Mrs. liRKisH Cemetery . . . 6 r - . Brassey . . .82 Soldiers' Cemetery at Skutaki. Photograph . . . 83 The Sultan's Caique . . . Mott . . . . 85 Broussa from Hotel d'Olympe.1 . Preziosi . . 90 The Sultan's Youngest Son . Photograph . .111 Original Sketch by the Sultan Abdul Aziz . . .113 Smyrna Camel .... Photograph . .117 1 Photograph bv Mrs. Aqueduct near Ephlsls . ..

Bnmy _ Ijg I Photograph by Mrs. A Camp on the Road ... „ ( Brassey . . .122 Munie, Mr. Crake, Evie Robin- , Photograph by Mrs. son, and Felise . ■ • I Brassey . . . 125 Ruins of Amphitheatre at , Photograph by Mrs. Milo ( Brassey. . . 12S The 'Sunbeam' when first i „, . A, Photograph . . . 130 LAUNCHED . . . . . I 1 Photograph bv APrs. A Church at Zante . . ■ 1 _-> I Brassey . . .131 , Photograph by Mrs. Olive-gathering in Cephalonia. \ { Brassey . . . 134 An Extra Bath . . . . Bingham . . .141 1 Photograph by Mrs. Some of our Crew . . . . J „ I Brassey . . . 144 Citadel of Corfu . . . Photograph . .145 1 Incorrectly printed, in the inscription, ' Hotel de 1'Europe.' PAGE An Unpleasant Demand for \ ... , Bingham . . . 147 Ammunition . . . . > The Smoking Room . . Photograph . . . 154 Amphitheatre at Taormina . .

Photograph . • 157 Harbour at Bastia . , . Photograph . . . 165 Last of the 'Eurydice' . . Bingham . . . 175 _t The 'Assistance 'running into us Bingham .. . . 178 Dining under Difficulties . . Bingham . . . 180 A small Derelict . . . Mott . . . . 187 Off the Bayona Islands . . Bingham . . .190 Tobacco Manufactory at Seville Bingham . . . 199 A Water Party .... Bingham . . .206 Colliding nearly . . . . Bingham . . . 209 Spanish Market Boat . . Bingham . . .211 Oran Harbour . . . . Photograph . . .212 Moorish Girl . . . Photograph . .215 Our State Room . . . . Photograph . . .219 Amphitheatre at Cagliari. . Photograph . .229 Sardinian Clothes-dealer . . Photograph . . .231 Bay of Naples .... Bingham . . .233 'The Image of him!' . . . Bingham . . '. 240 Landing-place at Capri . . Bingham . . . 243 Woman of Capri ....

Bingham . . . .244 Steps at Anacapri . . . Barclay, R.A. . . 246 Cape Spada Bingham . . . 248 Earring from Curium . . Mott . . 249 Port Papho Bingham . . . 250 Mounting the ' Minotaur ' . Bingham . . .252 Earring from Curium . . . Mott . .r6 PAGE Larnaka . . . . . . Bingham . . .261 Gold Earring .... Mott . . . 263 ' Will they ever hear ? ' . . Bingham . . 264 Asking for a Pilot . . . Bingham . . . 265 Arrival in Camp . . . . Bingham . . , 267 Ruins of Famagousta . . Bingham . . , 284 Ancient Guns . . . . Bingham . . .287 ' Get up, you lazy man ! ' . . Bingham . . . 289 A Heavy Load . . . . Bingham . . 294 Kind Attentions .... Bingham . . . 299 Prison at Rhodes . . . . Harry Johnson . . 306 Rhodes Miiller . . . . 307 Street of the Knights . . .' Photograph . -310 'Ma's Donkey Man' . . . Bingham . . . .312 Upside Down Bingham . . .316 Bonner's Pigeon ....

Mott . . . . 320 'Sunbeam' aground . . . Bingham . . .322 'Why, here's the Owl !' . . Mott . . . . 323 Lunch with a Turk . . . Bingham . . . 330 'You are not a tennis ball!' . Bingham . . . 333 Mosque of Sultan Achmed . . Photograph . . 335 Refugees at Princess Nazli's 1 _ . , « - Bingham . . .330 Door ) s 6dJ Pigeons at the Mosque. . . Bingham . . . 344 Pick-a-back Bingham . . . 346 Princesses embarking. . . Bingham . . . 349 Turkish Bracelet . . . Mott . . • • 351 Bulgarian Earring . . . Mott . . . .353 Bulgarian Earring . . . Mott . . . 359 a XX PAGE Refugees on Train . . . Mott . . . ■ 364 Earrings and Necklet in one . Mott .... 366 Bulgarian Child's Bracelet. . Mott . . . . 368 Children's Nursery . . . Photograph . . 373 Braving the Elements. . . . Bingham . . . 378 Syra . . . . . . Photograph . . 380 Hermit of Malea . ... Bingham . . . 389 A Quiet Time .... Mott . . .395 The Meet at Battle Abbey . Bingham . . .

Part I. Constantinople And The Ionian Islands

1874. Lying off Ryde. SUNSHINE AND STORM IN THE EAST (1874-1878).

Chapter I. Our Start

— RYDE, TANGIER, AND GIBRALTAR. One woe doth tread upon another ' s heels. So fast they follow. ON Friday, September yd, 1869, we had started from Covves in the 'Meteor' for the opening of the Suez Canal. In more ways than one that cruise turned out badly, as the equinoctial gales detained us three weeks at Brest, and the yacht had been driven back to Southampton, obliging us to make the first part of our voyage by the ordinary means of conveyance. I caught a bad fever while PRINCE AND PRINCESS OF ROUMANIA. travelling in Syria, of which I nearly died in Malta, and still feel the ill effects sometimes. However, we were not in fluenced by the sailor's superstition, and arranged to start again on Friday, September 4, 1874, from Hastings in the ' Sunbeam.' On that morning it poured with rain, and blew with such force that the Fishermen's Regatta had to be postponed, with the exception of the Fishing Boats' Race.

These boats are able to sail in any weather, but only ten started out of thirty-seven entered, and even these were under double-reefed sails. Saturday, September $th, was a lovely morning, without a breath of air, but by half-past ten the wind began to rise ; by twelve it was high, and before two it was blowing a gale. When the yacht arrived and dropped her anchor, it was with great difficulty that the luggage could be got on board, soaking wet, by a sort of extemporised crane. Monday, September yth, was finer, but with a strong southerly wind still. We lunched with the Prince and Princess of Roumania in St. Leonards, saw some interesting rocket practice (for saving life at sea), and then drove to Court Lodge, in order to afford our guests an opportunity of seeing something of Sussex farming, hop-picking, and fat beasts, with which they were much interested.

This was followed by a rough and homely tea, which we all enjoyed, and it was long after dark before we separated, with mutual regrets, and promises to meet again in Roumania, which country they gave us a hearty invitation to visit. Tuesday, September 8th. — I had a telegram from Tom to meet him at Ryde ; so we left Bexhill at half-past one, and arrived in due course at Portsmouth. A rough crossing to ROUGH WEATHER. 3 Ryde pier, and a good tossing in the gig, took us on board the 'Sunbeam,' which we found all ready for sea; but there was apparently no hope of starting for some time. Wednesday gth and Thursday loth were terribly rough. Most of the yachts slipped away to Portsmouth, South ampton, or to lay up, and I do not think a single yacht's boat tried to land except our own, which, being a powerful lifeboat cutter, was very safe and tolerably dry, though heavy to work under oars.

Friday, September nth, was calmer, but very wet. Tom and I went over to Sandown with the children, to spend the day with some old friends. Sandown itself is wonderfully altered and improved since we were there last. Many pretty rows of villas with verandahs have sprung up, in gardens of their own, looking more like a German watering-place than one of our stiff 'parades by the sea.' After lunch, Tom and a friend decided to walk home. The children, being very wet after their dabble on the sands, were sent back by the first train, and I arranged to drive out to Bonchurch and return by the 6.30 train. We had a lovely drive in spite of the rain ; but the pony was fat and slow, and we arrived at the station just in time to see the train going off. We drove on to Sandown, and my host kindly accompanied me to the pier-head at Ryde, where I found the cutter and six men had been waiting for me since seven.

Our old captain, Bishop, who has retired, and is now a yacht-agent ashore instead of a yacht captain afloat, tried hard to persuade me not to go off, as it was blowing so hard, pouring with rain, and pitch-dark. However, I knew the boat and the men, and how anxious those on board would be if I did not arrive. I therefore B BOARDING IN A GALE. determined to start, with three reefs in the lugsail,two men holding on to the halyards, one to the sheet, all ready to let go. As soon as we got from under the lee of the pier we were nearly blown back. Then we narrowly escaped being run down by a steamer, which the wind would not allow us to weather. Being compelled to bear up, we had hard work beating to windward ; but we persevered, although at every minute we shipped seas, which kept three men constantly baling.

At last, just as I was beginning to despair, John, the coxswain, cried out, 'Down sail and pull for your lives, men, or we shan't get on board to-night.' We saw the yacht, a perfect blaze of light, the deckhouse illuminated, and lights all along the bulwarks, which were lined with the anxious faces of all on board, passengers, servants, children, and crew, some holding lanterns, and some ropes. We bumped against the yacht, ropes were thrown over, and we were with great difficulty passed round under the stern, tossing about, sometimes far above and sometimes far below the yacht, till we were under the lee side. Then I was most thankful to be half thrown, half dragged on board. The men followed as best they could, clinging and swarming up the ropes like monkeys. Wet and terrified as I was, it was nothing to what they had suffered on board.

For the last two trips the boat had been half full of water, and as the gale had been increasing for the last hour, they had almost given us up for lost. When one of the crew first saw our boat through the black darkness, Tom was just starting in the other cutter with ten men to look for us, and if possible to stop my trying to get on board that night. Had we missed the yacht the first time, it would have been impossible to LUCKY SUNDAY. 5 pull up to her again. We should then have been obliged to run for Portsmouth Harbour, and probably to stay out all night, or till the tide turned or the wind moderated. It was really blowing a regular equinoctial gale. We had two anchors down, with sixty fathoms of chain on one and forty on the other anchor, and even then we dragged. Saturday, September \2th. — After all the trouble and artxiety with the boats yesterday, Tom thought it better to go into Portsmouth Harbour, where we could land in peace in any weather.

We steamed across, and took up our old quarters at the buoy belonging to the ' St. Vincent's ' brig. In the afternoon we went to a pleasant dance on board the ' Excellent,' where we met many old Mediterranean and Canadian friends, some of whom ad journed to tea on board the ' Sunbeam.' The weather had quite taken up, the wind changed to N.E., and we wanted to be off at once. But some of our men were on shore ; provisions and water also were wanted ; so we determined to start at six the next morning. Sunday, September iyh. — Sailors love to start on Sunday as much as they hate to start on Friday. Everyone, therefore, was in good spirits as on this most lovely morning we steamed slowly out of the harbour, past Ryde and Cowes, through the Solent to the Needles, which we passed at 10 a.m., and got into the swell outside just as we were having service at 1 1 a.m. By noon we were off St. Alban's Head.

At 7.30 p.m. off the Start. Flat calm. Our party this time consists of Tom, myself, and the three children, Tab, Ma belle, and Baby, of which the two eldest are to return from Gibraltar with Fisher ; Mr. Swift, with my cousin Miss Eva Robinson, and Mr. Bingham, completing our number. OFF THE ROCK OF LISBON. 6 Monday, September 14th.— Still calm. At 10 a.m. we were off Ushant, at noon off the Chaussee de Sein, having come from Portsmouth — 278 miles— in twenty-eight hours. At 1 p.m. we ceased steaming, and with a light north easterly breeze, and all fore and aft sail set, steered for Cape Ortegal. Tuesday, September i$lh. — In the Bay of Biscay, with pleasant weather, moderate sea, and wind from S.E. At noon we had sailed 1 1 3 miles since the same hour yesterday, and were 176 miles from Cape Ortegal.

Wednesday, September 16th. — We made the land near Cape Ortegal about 2 p.m., and at 10 p.m. were about 15 miles from Cape Finisterre, with the revolving light in view. In the morning it was so calm that when Muriel, in a fit of mischief, threw her shoe overboard, the dingy was lowered to pick it up. The weather was bright and sunny, with paltry winds. We tried sailing, but, after flop ping about in a very heavy swell from noon till 1 1 p.m., we raised the funnel and proceeded under steam, to the great comfort of everybody on board. Distance, from noon yesterday till noon to-day, 197 miles. Thursday, September ifth. — A strong wind, freshening to a moderate gale, all day. We ceased steaming at 1 1 a.m. At noon we were 50 miles off Cape Mondego, having run 190 miles since noon yesterday. At 10 p.m. we were off the rock of Lisbon.

The swell all day from the north west was very heavy. At night it blew so hard that the jaws of the main boom were carried away, and it was a terrible business securing it again. It swept the whole of the after-deck with the greatest violence, describing more than a semicircle, and nobody could get near it till the DENIZENS OF THE DEEP. 7 vessel's head was brought to the wind. Then they lowered the sail, and ultimately made all safe, fortunately without injury to life or limb, though the standard compass was upset, companion smashed in, and Tom's azimuth carried overboard. Several whales have been seen at different times, one blowing up so close to the yacht as to produce the appearance of an escape of steam from the engine-room. Shoals of porpoises played around us every day. The water Cape St. Vincent has been full of jelly-fish of all kinds, each beautiful in colour and shape, but none more so than the lovely little Portuguese men-of-war, with their graceful delicate sails set to the breeze, sailing before the wind.

At night the sea was splendidly illuminated with minute star-like zoophytes, making the water look like the reflection of the brilliantly star-studded sky above. Everything showed how much we had changed our latitude since starting from England. Friday, September i8lh. — The morning rose with a fresh OFF TANGIER. fair breeze, but very heavy swell from north-west, causing the ' Sunbeam ' to roll deeply for some hours before rounding Cape St. Vincent at noon. We signalled our number, and after passing the cape, though the wind freshened, the sea was smooth, and we had a most delightful sail along the south coast of Portugal. In the evening we saw the light off Cape St. Mary ; and we had a quiet night, which was a great treat. Saturday, September igth. — The morning was very hot, with a flat calm and a heavy swell.

Fires were lighted and the funnel raised, ready to steam into Tangier, when a violent squall of wind came on suddenly, and continued for some hours, lashing the waves into foam, and raising so much sea in a short time, that we had more water on board than we wanted, and we all felt far more uncomfortable than during the whole passage thus far from England. We were under the shelter of Cape Spartel about 1 1 a.m., and as we coasted along had lovely views, especially as we rounded the last point and made Tangier, resembling, like most Oriental towns seen from a distance, a pearl rising from the ocean. Soon after noon we put off in the boat to land at Tangier, sending the yacht out to sea for a few hours. We took our passports, but were not allowed to land for want of the bill of health, which Tom had unfortu nately left behind, thinking it would not be needed.

We sent a message to the consul ; but he said it was of no use. So we sent a second message, and after some delay were told we might land in half an hour. In the meantime Tom transferred us into an empty boat lying at anchor, and went off in the gig under sail, to try and intercept the yacht and procure the important document. This he ARAB HORSEMEN. 9 succeeded in doing just as all the consuls and vice-consuls of every nation (whose name is Legion here) had consented to allow us to land. During the three hours we were bobbing about in the broiling sun, we had been amused by watching Arabs Tangier riding races on the shore, and some washing their horses, swimming them right out to sea. When wet themselves, their shiny black and brown muscular bodies looked like bronze as they sat, firm as rocks, on their horses, which plunged and snorted with fear when out of their depth.

No matter what they did, their riders stuck to them like wax. SCENE IN THE MARKET. 10 On landing we went straight to the Royal Victoria Hotel, kept by a black steward of the Duke of Edinburgh, who had married a Scotch cook. It is very comfortable : good cuisine and wine, nice clean rooms with a lovely view looking north, and consequently much cooler than Gibraltar. We were greatly pleased with the picturesque look of the town and the people, and we settled to spend Sunday here. After lunch we went for a stroll through the market, which was crowded with Arabs in their white haiks, negroes in their striped abbats, Bedouins in their burnous, and Moors and Jews in their bright-coloured dresses of all hues. The women were even more gorgeously draped than the men. As it was their Sabbath, they were all in their best.

The faces of the Jewesses were uncovered ; the Moorish women were muffled up to the eyes, and waddled along like animated bundles of dirty clothes. Outside the gate were strings of camels from the interior, mules and horses from neighbouring villages, with more wild and picturesque people encamped in little striped tents or small bamboo covered huts, at work on their various trades, or cooking their frugal meal at the door. Large families of children, babies and all, in spite of the intense heat, were packed as close inside their tents here, at the very edge of the Great Desert, as we had found the Lapps, almost on the verge of the eternal snows, when we saw them not two months ago. This similarity of habit between two very different peoples, one living under a broiling sun the year through, the other existing with hardly any sun at all, is certainly curious and interesting.

There were snake-charmers fascinating the slimy reptiles before the gaze of an admiring circle ; story tellers telling and acting their romances to a crowd lolling CAFE A LA TURQUE. 11 about on rocks and stones at the side of the hill, extempo rising a sort of theatre to listen to the Arab improvvisatore. At the table d'hote we found a great influx of visitors, arrived by steamer from Gibraltar to spend Sunday. On our way to the boat after dinner, we stopped at a very small Moorish cafe lighted by two little wicks floating in oil held in two tumblers, suspended by long chains from Bargaining in the Bazaar the low ceiling till they were almost level with the floor. Here we all crouched down on our heels and partook of cafe' a la turque—z. large tea-spoonful of coffee, another of sugar, put into a small cup and boiling water poured on it, making it thick and sweet, but very high-flavoured and good.