Round the World in Six Months

Preface

. FTER my return from making the Tour of the World, I almost daily received letters from friends and acquaintances, containing enquiries on the subject of my travels, and asking for hints. This gave me the idea that the publication of the Diary I kept during my journey, with a few addi tional notes, might be useful to others outside my own immediate circle, and with the hope that such may be the case, I offer this volume to the " tra veller of the future." E. S. BRIDGES. Guards' Club. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Departure

— ARRIVAL IN NEW YORK — NIAGARA PALLS — A CURRENT BATH— DINING IN THE TRAIN — COLORADO — A SODA WATER BATH — MEXICAN ASSASSINS — THE PUEBLO INDIANS — SNAKE WORSHIP — TICKLING RATTLE-SNAKES — AN INDIAN FESTIVAL— MORMON LAND . . . . . 1

Chapter II. Salt Lake City

— A NARROW ESCAPE— THE YOSEMITE VALLEY — ADVANCED CIVILIZATION— A PEW HINTS — TEN YEARS AGO — SAN FRANCISCO — AN AMERICAN BREAKFAST — GAMBLING ON A LARGE SCALE — TROTTERS — ON BOARD THE " GAELIC" — LIVE AND DEAD CARGO— PROPITIATING NEPTUNE — LOSING A 18 DAY Consents. VIII

Chapter III. Japan In Sight

— JINRIKISHAS — YOKOHAMA — TOKIO— A JA PANESE FAIR — TEA-HOUSES — JAPANESE GIRLS — -FEMALE couriers — tea ad nauseam, — the coolies — straw horse shoes — PRIMITIVE COOKERY — ENOSHIMA — A JAPANESE DINNER AND BED— SYMBOLS OF THE SEXES — LEGEND OF 34 BENTEN

Chapter IV. Dai-butz

— SHINTO TEMPLES — JAPANESE SWORDS — A PECULIAR FORM OF WORSHIP— CURIOS — CREMATION — A REVOLTING SPECTACLE — JAPANESE GRAVEYARDS — A TRIP IN THE COUNTRY — TRAVELLING UNDER DIFFICULTIES — STUDIES FROM THE NUDE — FEMALE SHAMPOOERS — A RESORT FOR INVALIDS — FLOODS . . . . . .51

Chapter V. Going Out To Sea

— A DIFFICULT LANDING — JAPANESE PACK ING— KOBE — KIYOTO — FAIR AT OSAKA — A CONJUROR — THE THEATRE— NAGASAKI— A CURIOUS ENTERTAINMENT — LEAV ING JAPAN— SHANGHAI . . . . .70

Chapter VI. The European Settlement

— DIMINUTIVE RACERS — SHOOTING IN CHINA — A REAL CHINESE DINNER— BIRD'S-NEST STEW — THE CHINESE ARSENAL — HONG-KONG — A TYPHOON — PIDGEON ENGLISH — CHITS — THE "SPRITE" — UP THE CANTON RIVER — SAMPANS . . . . . . . 8.J Contents. IX

Chapter VII. Shamien

— CANTON STREETS AND SHOPS — BLACK DOGS' AND CATS' FLESH — TORTURES OF THE CHINESE DAMNED — PUNISH MENT OF CARELESS SPORTSMEN — OF INCOMPETENT DOCTORS — REFINED CRUELTY — CHINESE IDEAS OF VIRTUE — THE GREAT BELL— A HUNDRED HEADS FOR ONE — THE WATER CLOCK — TIME-STICKS ..... 103

Chapter VIII. Hall Of Examination

— THE PRISONS— TORTURES— HORRORS — EXECUTIONS — PUNISHING THE INNOCENT— NINE-TAILED FISH RECEIPT FOR PRODUCING THEM— SACRED PIGS METHOD OF SOFTENING A HARD HEART — FLOWER BOATS — RIVER POPULATION — DUCK BOATS— FIGHTING CRICKETS — KITE FLYING — HARDSHIPS OF CHINESE WOMEN — A HUS BAND'S POWER OF REVENGE — A CYCLONE . . 119

Chapter IX. Macao--a Gambling

HOUSE— FANTAN— REDUCED GENTLEWO MEN — A BOOK TO READ — THE FEMALE CARGO— THEIR AMUSE MENTS — A TEDIOUS VOYAGE — SINGAPORE — BARGAINING — A PINE-APPLE FOR THREE HALFPENCE— CHANGE OF PASSEN GERS—FLIRTING IN PENANG— SHOALS IN THE HOOGHLY — CALCUTTA ....... 137

Chapter X. Heat, Flies, Punkahs

— BENARSI — BUYING NECESSARIES — STARTING FOR THE FRONT— PEGS — A DAK BUNGALOW — BENARES — THE CITY OF IDOLS — SACRED MONKEYS — THE OB SERVATORY — BATHERS IN THE GANGES— VISHNU'S PERSPIRA TION — THE GOLDEN TEMPLE — LUCKNOW — THE RESIDENCY — DEATH OF LAWRENCE — HEROES AND HEROINES — THE RELIEF — A SUPREME MOMENT — CAWNPORE . . . Contents. X

Chapter XI. The Wells

— WHEELER'S ENTRENCHMENT — THE NANA'S MES SAGE — TREACHERY — THE MASSACRE — BUTCHERY — HAVELOCK AND HIS MEN— AGRA — THE FORT — THE PALACE OT GLASS — THE TAJ — AKBAR'S TOMB — TOWARDS " THE FRONT" — " SIR SAM'S SWORD BELT*' — JHELUM . . .. .177

Chapter XII. Telegraphic Arrangements

— CROWS, HAWKS, VULTURES — THE DRIVE TO RAWUL PINDEE — THE CAMP — RIDE TO PESHAWUR— AT MAJOR CAVAGNARl's — THE GHOORKAS — RE TURN TO LAHORE — GOLDEN TEMPLE AT UMRITSUR— DELHI — BUYING BANGLES— THE CITADEL — AKBAR'S AUDIENCE HALL — THE PEACOCK THRONE — BOMBAY DUCKS — INDIAN VEGE TABLES . . . . . . .196

Chapter XIII. The Ridge

— ANXIETIES OF THE COMMAND — MURDER OF FRASER AND DOUGLAS — MORE MURDERS— THE GREAT MAGA ZINE — THE NINE — THE RIDGE REGAINED — BARNARD'S DEATH — JOHN NICHOLSON — BRINGING UP THE GUNS— THE ATTACK — THE CASHMERE GATE — OUR LOSSES — DELHI RETAKEN — THE MEMORIAL COLUMN . . . . .216

Chapter XIV. The Kutub

MINAR— HODSON, OF HODSON'S HORSE — TAKING THE KING AND PRINCES OF DELHI — DEATH FROM " SIGH ING" — JEHANARA'S TOMB— LEGEND OF THE IRON PILLAR — A TREMENDOUS PLUNGE — THE METCALFE HOUSE— AN IN GENIOUS DEVICE— JEYPORE — ITS PICTURESQUENESS — THE RAJAH . . .... Contents. XI

Chapter XV. An Elephant Ride

— VISIT TO THE PALACE — LIZARD LIQUEUR — THE PRIME MINISTER — A NAUTCH— A " LAY OF IND" — PRAC TICAL JOKING — POLITENESS OF THE MINISTER — ALLAHABAD — AN INDIAN SUPERSTITION — THE FORT — JEHANGUIRE*S REVENGE — PARTING FROM BENARSI — THUGS — BOMBAY 248.

Chapter XVI. Malabar Hill

— CAVES OF ELEPHANTA — DELHI MERCHANTS ADEN — THE TANKS— HOW WE TOOK PERIM — SUEZ — DONKEYS AND DONKEY-BOYS — OTTO OF ROSES AND TURQUOISES — BACK SHEESH— CAIRO — BAZAARS— MASSACRE OF THE MAMELUKES — AN INCREDIBLE STORY — BOULAK MUSEUM — A DAHABEAH — SPORT ON THE NILE ..... 264

Chapter XVII. On

— THE VIRGIN'S TREE — THE SPHINX— THE PYRAMIDS— A STIFFISH RUN — EGYPTIAN CAVALRY— DANCING DERVISHES — THE FASHIONABLE DRIVE — ALEXANDRIA — MALTA — ITS VA RIOUS POSSESSORS — KNIGHTS OF MALTA — THE " KAISAR-I HIND" — HOME ...... 280

Chapter XVIII. Concluding Remarks

— THE TIME TO LEAVE ENGLAND — LUGGAGE — CLOTHES — MEDICINE — MONEY — COST OF THE JOURNEY .......

Chapter I. Departure

— ARRIVAL IN NEW YORK — NIAGARA FALLS — A CURRENT BATH — DINING IN THE TRAIN — COLORADO — A SODA- WATER BATH— MEXICAN ASSASSINS — THE PUEBLO INDIANS — SNAKE WORSHIP— TICKLING RATTLE-SNAKES — AN INDIAN FESTIVAL — MORMON LAND. N Friday, the 19th of July, 1878, I left London to make the tour of the world. I liad taken my ticket at Cunard's Office in Pall Mall for Yokohama from Liverpool : the price of it was £$6. The following day I went on board the Russia. We were fortunate in our weather, and at seven a.m. on Sunday morning, we anchored B off Queenstown. A tug-boat came along-side after breakfast, took those passengers who cared to land, ashore, and returned with them at half-past two p.m. Having got the mails on board, we weighed anchor and steamed away at four o'clock. The voyage offered but little to chronicle.

Amongst the passengers was the author of " The Great Divide," en route for Colorado, accompanied by Dr. K , the well known joint-author of " The Earl and the Doctor." We had a head-wind the whole way, and were delayed four and twenty hours in con sequence. Although it was the height of summer, the weather was almost cold, and I was glad that I had taken the precaution to keep out a trunk containing thick clothes. At daybreak on the 30th, a pilot came on board. The only news he brought was that the beat on shore was intense, and that numbers of people at New York and St. Louis were dying of sunstroke. It rained all day, and there was a thick fog. July 2,1st. — Landed on the wharf at Jersey Choice of Route. 3 City at eight a.m., all my baggage was at once passed by a Custom House officer. I engaged a hack, i.e., fly, and went by the ferry across the Hudson River to the Clarendon Hotel, New York.

These ferries carry twenty carriages or more, and any number of people each trip. I provided myself with Appleton's " Rail way Guide," which answers to our " Brad shaw." In America it is the custom to give travellers a time-table with their tickets. At this time of year, New York is quite empty, all the beauty and fashion having fled to Newport, Saratoga, Long Branch, West Point, and other resorts. I found the heat intense, and a perfect plague of flies. After breakfast I went to the Pacific Mail Steam ship Company's Office in Broadway; gave up Cunard's through-ticket, and got in exchange a set of coupons to carry me as far as San Francisco, and a pass from thence to Yoko hama. The choice was given me of three lines of railway, I took the Erie route, and recommend it to travellers in preference to B the others, by both of which I have travelled upon previous occasions.

I stayed some days in the neighbourhood of New York on a visit to friends. On the 5th of August I took the steam-ferry at the bottom of Twenty-third Street, and crossed to Jersey City. Checked my baggage for Omaha, with the exception of one small portmanteau, which contained everything I was likely to want for the next week, including a revolver. Having a through ticket, I was allowed two hundred and fifty pounds weight of baggage, (one hundred more than ordinary passengers.) I may here mention, that by taking my ticket direct from Liverpool to Yokohama I saved £20. On reaching the train, I immediately engaged a sleeping berth, which, if you want any peace or comfort, is a necessity on this expedition. We commenced our journey at six p.m. At ten o'clock next morning we crossed the Niagara River, and had a splendid view of the Falls.

Of course, anyone who has not previously visited the States, must stop to see Niagara, one of Niagara. 5 the finest sights in the world. To attempt a description, is only to feel the utter futility of trying to convey in words a spectacle before which every one must stand awed and surprised. This immense volume of water, taking every moment its tremendous leap of a hundred and sixty feet with a roar that may be heard twenty miles off, baffles words. The principal hotel on the Canadian side is called the Clifton House, and on the American, the International. Both are much frequented by tourists. A " sensation" here is to take a " current bath." You descend into a sort of cage, something like an eel-trap, in a wooden bathing-house, on the bank of the river; the water rushes through the bars with a violence that nearly takes your breath away, and you have to hang on very tight to a rope to prevent yourself being dashed against the bars.

Niagara looks its best in the winter, when, for a considerable distance round, the trees are gemmed with crystals of its frozen spray. In the sunshine, the effect of this is most lovely. There are many kinds of beautiful birds in the neighbourhood, and near the Falls lives a noted bird-stuffer, who makes charming fans and screens of them. Indians come about with bead-work slippers, trays and boxes of birch-bark, &c, for sale. To return to Niagara. I don't know that anything ever impressed me as being more wonderful than Blondin's feat in crossing the Falls on a rope, unless, indeed, it was the mad ness of a friend of mine, who went over on his back. The best view is to be had in crossing the river a short distance below the cataract. On reaching Niagara, the Canadian Custom House officers walked through the cars and in spected the baggage, but without giving any trouble.

We reached London, Canada West, at two p.m., and alighted from the train to lunch at the station refreshment rooms. Half an-hour was allowed us, and a capital table-d'hote lunch provided ; charge seventy-five cents (three shillings). In the evening, most of the pas sengers dined in the dining-car attached to the Dining in the Train. 7 train — the dinner was the same price as the lunch. Wine in America, unless you pay an extravagant price for it, is very indifferent. At half-past nine the same night we crossed the magnificent Detroit River in a steam-ferry ; the train being taken over all at once, but in two separate halves, one alongside the other. August 7th. — Arrived at Chicago at eight a.m. We were now " transferred " in an omnibus to the depot of the Chicago and North Western Railway over an infamous road, and were nearly stifled in transit by the dust.

Although the city has been rebuilt since the great fire of 1871, no improvement has been made in the roads, which are as bad as they can be. An hour later we were off again on our journey to Omaha. In this train, tables were put up between the seats when required for meals, cards, or any other purpose. Though it may be a convenience for ladies to lunch and dine in the train, I should recommend the active male traveller to descend for that purpose at the stations, as he will obtain much better fare at less expense. The trains always stop for twenty minutes three times a day, as near nine, one, and six as can conveniently be managed. The tariff varies at different stations ; it ranges between fifty and a hundred cents, exclusive of wines and spirits. Americans drink tea, milk, or water, all iced and in large quantities.

The heat was intense, averaging 88° in the shade, and the dust stifling. In the train all the men, women and children had provided themselves with telescopic metal cups, which they continued to fill as often as they were empty, running to and fro all day long between their seats and the cistern where iced water was kept. Large supplies of ice were taken in three or four times daily at various stations. Boys walked up and down the cars perpetually, selling oranges, grapes, peaches, apples, pears, books and newspapers. Thursday, 8th. — At half-past nine we reached Council Bluffs, now a large town, formerly a Mormon settlement. Here we left the train and got into what is called a transfer car, and were conveyed across the suspension bridge, (said to be the largest in the world), that spans the Missouri Colorado. 9 river.

We were now at Omaha. I lunched at the station refreshment rooms. The thermometer marked 93° in the shade. Two negroes stood over me with fans to cool the air and keep the flies off, a very necessary precaution. I heard that numbers of people were dying daily from sunstroke. In the course of the day we passed Fremont, Grand Island, and North Platte, all celebrated for sanguinary encounters a few years back between Western men and Indians. Friday, 9th. — Reached Cheyenne at forty minutes past one p.m. From this a branch line runs southwards to Denver, distant one hundred and seven miles. A train which leaves at one o'clock arrives there at eight p.m. Colorado is the most beautiful and healthy state in the United States. The fame of its springs and baths is now spreading far and wide, and it is a favourite resort of invalids, who flock to it from the Eastern States.

Colorado is noted for its mines of gold, silver, iron, coal and copper ; its splendid climate, beautiful scenery, great agricultural and stock-raising resources ; high mountains, the two highest of which are Mount Lincoln, 16,090 feet, and Pike's Peak, near Colorado Springs, 14,336 feet. The capital, as everyone probably knows, is Denver, a good head-quarters to start from on shooting expeditions. There are plenty of good hotels. I prefer Chapieau's ; it has a good restaurant attached. If time allows, a trip should be taken by the Denver and Rio Grande Narrow Gauge (3 ft.) Railway to Colorado Springs, seventy-six miles from Denver. At Manitou, where the springs are, five miles from the station, there are three large hotels, the best of which is The Manitou House. The water tastes a good deal like German seltzer.

I bathed in the springs, and the bubbling, effervescing water has a very refreshing effect on the system. Excur sions should be made to The Garden of the Gods, Glen Eyrie, Queen's Canon, The Devil's Punch bowl, all in the neighbourhood, and to the summit of Pike's Peak, a ten miles ride. Very good horses can be hired here, both for riding and driving. Going further south you come to Pueblo, and then, crossing the Veta Pass, 9,340 ft. above Mexican Assassins. 11 the level of the sea and 1,100 ft. higher than any other railway in the States, you reach Fort Garland, the last station on the line at the present time. When there some years ago, I stayed with Mr. Tobio, noted for having killed two Mexican assassins who were for some time the scourge of the neighbouring country. It seems that when the American war broke out, one of the Generals of the Northern army seized the farms, horses, and all the belongings of two Mexicaus, who were then well-to-do and peace ably-disposed farmers, under the pretext that they had Southern proclivities.

Robbed of all they possessed and turned adrift, they became maddened with rage and hatred, and, hiding themselves in the mountains, vowed revenge. Every American they could come near they murdered, until the number of their victims assumed alarming proportions. They were in the habit of lying in ambush and shooting stray travellers. A large reward was offered for their heads by the Government. Tobin, a Western man, and a first-rate shot, determined, if possible, to rid the country of these pests. Having ascertained that they were likely to pass by a certain road on one occasion, he concealed him self behind a rock and waited. Presently they appeared in sight. As they came within range, he fired. One fell. The other knelt down beside him, but the wounded man exclaimed, " I'm a dead man ; run for your life," upon which the second assassin got up and hurried off.

Tobin had meanwhile reloaded his heavy Kentucky rifle, and brought down the second man at two hundred yards. Subsequently he carried their heads to the officer commanding the fort. He never got the Government reward, but the inhabitants made up a purse for him. He now supplies the United States troops at Fort Garland with meat, and has a nice little adobi house, which he has converted into a miniature fort, as he formerly had occasional aud very unwelcome visits from Indians and Mexicans. I was much amused by some tame ducks, which walked about the house, climbed up his children and sat on their shoulders, helping themselves up with their bills. Pueblo Indians. 13 From Fort Garland, a stage, (coach), goes to Taos, eighty-eight miles, near which is a remarkably-interesting village belonging to the Pueblo Indians.

They live on a " Reservation " — that is, a tract of land reserved to them by the Govern ment. There are only two buildings, something like barracks, made of " adobi," (dried mud), and four or five stories high. These are utterly im pervious to musketry fire. They are only to be entered by the roof, against which numerous long ladders are placed, and the inhabitants then descend by a sort of bear's pole to the rooms in the various stories below. When I visited one of the old chiefs there, I had to make my entry in this manner. As soon as I arrived, his youngest squaw, a very pretty little creature, habited only in a chemise, politely spread me a buffalo robe, swarmed down a pole with great rapidity to the larder, and shortly reappeared with a basket of wild plums and grapes, grown close by.

Numbers of curious flint implements, chiefly arrow-heads and adzes, are to be picked up in the neighbourhood. I remarked that the men wore their hair long, and the women short. Though they profess to be Roman Catholics, it is supposed that they are given to snake-worship in private. I went into an egg-shaped room underground, in which I saw a large live rattlesnake in a cage. I also saw several poor eagles in captivity, the only object of which was that when a chief wanted a new feather for his hair it might be obtained without delay. They have a curious method of poisoning arrows here. A bullock's heart is placed on the ground; a rattlesnake is held down with a forked stick near it ; a second man tickles its stomach until it becomes infuriated and spits its venom on the heart. After this, arrows are stuck into the heart, and taken out again twenty-four hours later, and dried in the sun.

A great festival takes place here every year about the end of September. I was fortunate enough to come in for one a few years ago. At this festival there is foot and horse-racing, shooting with bows and arrows, dancing, &c. One of the racing games is as follows : — A course of a hundred to a hundred and fifty yards is marked out, and lined by spectators. At each end stand Foot Racing. twelve " braves," gorgeously apparelled in paint, with patches of a sort of cotton-wool gummed on to their ribs, arms, and legs. One starts from either end, and, with great speed, runs the course to the opposite side and back. Immediately he gets to his own circle, the second starts. By this means it will be seen that the contest is very exciting, as the race is not decided until the tweuty-four have completed their runs, and the chances of each side are constantly fluctuating with the fresh runners, first one side and then the other getting the start.

Each side must, of course, wait to start a fresh "brave" until the one running on their side gets back. The spec tators arm themselves with green boughs, with which they encouragingly flick the runners of their own tribe, shouting to them at the same time. A stage also goes from Fort Garland to Santa Fe, the capital of New Mexico, distant one hun dred and fifty-five miles. To-day, for the first time, we saw Indians. When I was here ten years ago, Cheyenne was one of the rowdiest places in the West. In those days every man carried a revolver in his belt ; but times are changed, and to-day it is the exception to meet an armed man. Saturday, 10th. — Arrived at Ogden at half-past six p.m., the junction of the Union and Central Pacific Railways. We were now in Mormon territory, and at once remarked a great improvement in the cultivation of the land.

There was a general appearance of comfort and prosperity ; the farm-houses and dwellings looked substan tial ; and the horses, mules, and cattle generally, seemed well-fed and cared for. At the station I bought some very fine fruit ; also a Mormon bible and other books. Entering into conversa tion with the vendor, I was not a little surprised to find that he was a countryman of my own, and had spent the greater part of his lite selling books and fruit in the neighbourhood of the Mansion House. He is quite a curiosity in his way — knew Brigham Young and most of the Mormon Elders intimately, and told me many amusing anecdotes about Salt Lake City and its inhabitants. Several passengers left the train here, and went by the Utah Central Railroad to the latter place, distant Salt Lake City. 17 thirty-nine miles.

Everyone who has not already been there should take this opportunity of making himself acquainted with the dwelling place of this world-famed sect. Now, I am told, the Walker House is the best hotel. c

Chapter II. Salt Lake

CITY— A NARROW ESCAPE— THE YOSEMITE VALLEY — ADVANCED CIVILIZATION — A FEW HINTS — TEN YEARS AGO — SAN FRANCISCO — AN AMERICAN BREAKFAST — GAMBLING ON A LARGE SCALE— TROTTERS— ON BOARD THE " GAELIC*' — LIVE AND DEAD CARGO — PROPITIATING NEPTUNE — LOSING A DAY. TAH territory contains about sixty five thousand square miles. The population is about a hundred and thirty thousand, mostly Mormons, but including some Indians and Chinese. Twenty thousand Mormons live in Salt Lake City. The mineral wealth of the country is very great. Fish culture is carried on, and good trout-fishing may Brigham Young. 19 be had. The streets of the city are very broad. On either side is a row of trees and a stream of water. The Tabernacle is two hundred and fifty feet long, by one hundred and fifty wide : it will hold eight thousand people.

The men sit on one side; the women on the other. There is an im mense organ. A Temple is now in course of building. On my visit, I made the acquaintance of the late Brigham Young, and saw some of his wives ; but, with one exception, they were remarkably devoid of attractions. Perhaps, ffood-lookins; women might not be content with a tithe of a husband. From Camp Douglas, overlooking the city, you get a very good view. I and the other passengers bound for San Francisco rechecked our baggage, and started off again westwards. Ogden is one thousand and thirty-two miles from Omaha, and eight hundred and eighty-two from San Francisco. Sunday, August 11th. — To-day our route lay for some distance alongside Salt Lake. We crossed Bear River and Blue Creek, and saw a c good many Indians of both sexes, good-looking and well dressed.

The Ute Indians have for many years been on friendly terms with the Mor mons, from whom they receive blankets and various necessaries. One " Buck " (the term which is applied to a male Indian in the West) carried a breech-loading revolver of the latest pattern. We also saw a few Chinese. The stations are now substantially built of wood, all alike in style and colour. In the dining-saloons we were waited upon sometimes by women, some times by white men, and oftener still by Chinese or men of colour. Ten years ago the attendants were all girls, pretty, and well-dressed. They wore short skirts and very neat boots, laced half way up the leg, white aprons, and their hair dressed in the latest European fashion. They were a great attraction to Western men, who rarely had a chance of seeing a white member of the fair sex.

Having for the last twenty-four hours been steadily ascending the Sierra Nevada, we presently reached the summit, and began to descend. August l_th. — The day dawned hot and sultry. A Narroiv Escape. 21 My thoughts were thousands of miles away on a Scotch moor, where, but for this journey, I should have been looking forward with keen anticipation to my day's work, when my career was very near being cut short by an accident, which all but precipitated our train head fore most into the adjoining abyss. A stack of wood by the side of the line had either caught or been set on fire. The sleepers were burned to tinder, causing the rails to sink into the earth, and our train to run off the line. Mercifully, however, it came to a stand-still just in time. We all got out, and, after an hour's delay, were able to resume our journey.

Presently, we arrived at Sacramento, now a large and thriving town. On my last visit, travellers were compelled to leave the train here, and go by steamer down the Sacramento River to San Francisco. At one o'clock we reached Lathrop (ninety miles from San Francisco). Here travellers, wishing to visit the Yosemite Valley, change cars, and proceed by a branch line to Merced, a distance of sixty miles. It takes at least seven clear days to see the Valley and big trees thoroughly. On arriving at Merced, the best plan is to go at once to the El Capitan Hotel, sleep there, and leave early next morning by stage-coach. The pleasantest route is by Mariposa to Clark's Hotel, in the neighbourhood of which there are big trees ; then on to 'the Yosemite Valley, and back to Merced via Coulterville. The cost of the trip is £30.

We reached Oakland at half-past five p.m. It is three thousand one hundred and twenty miles from New York, and six thousand one hundred and twenty from Liverpool. The streets are planted on either side with trees, but more thickly than the Continental Boulevards : and there are pretty, villa-like houses standing in gardens abouuding with beautiful flowers and rare shrubs. Oakland (so called on account of the numerous oaks which grow in the neighbourhood) has 40,000 inhabitants, and is to San Francisco what Brooklyn is to New York. All the rich merchants and people who can afford it have mansions and villas here, and go every day to business in San Francisco. Here modern in- Advanced Civilization. 23 ventions and appliances are thoroughly utilised. In many of the houses there is in one of the rooms a dial connected by wires with a telegraph office.

The dial is marked with such words as express the possible wants of the householder, for instance, carriage, doctor, messenger, news paper, policeman. Should an unprotected female suspect the vicinity of a burglar, she at once turns the hand on the dial to the word police man, when the telegraph clerk immediately despatches one. Our train ran through the town and down a very long pier right into the sea. At the end of it is the wharf, where we pulled up and got into an enormous ferry-boat, which took us across the bay to San Francisco, three and a half miles. At this pier, merchandise is landed by steamers from Japan, China, Australia, and other distant places ; conveyed direct to New York in cars, and from thence on again to Europe. Before going on board, I handed all my checks and light baggage to a luggage agent, who gave me a ticket for the hotel-coach, which shortly dropped me at the Occidental Hotel.