Observations on the Peloponnesus and Greek islands, made in 1829

Front matter

OBSERVATIONS UPON THE PELOPONiXESUS AND GREEK ISLANDS, MADE IN 1829. BY KTTFUS ANDERSON, One of the Secretaries of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions. BOSTON: PUBLISHED BT CROCKER AND BREWSTER, 47, Washington Street. NEW-TORK: JONATHAN LEAVITT, 182, Broadway. 1830. DISTRICT OF MASSACHUSETTS, to witt District Clerk's Office. BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the twenty-seventh day of November, A. D. 1830, in the fifty-fifth year ofthe Independence ofthe United States of America, Crocker & Brew&ter, of the said District, have deposited in this office the title of a hook, the right whereof they claim as Proprietors, in the words following, to wit: "Observations upon the Peloponnesus and Greek Islands, made in 1829. Bj' Rufus Anderson, One ofthe Secretaries ofthe American Board of Commis sioners for Foreign Missions."

In Conformity to the act of the Congress of the United States, entitled, "An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts and books, to the Authors and Proprietors of such copies, during the times therein mentioned;" and also to an act, entitled, "An act supplement ary to an act, intitled, An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts and books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies during the times therein mentioned; and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching historical, and other prints." JOHN W. DAVIS, Clerk ofthe District of Massachusttts. TO THE MEMBERS OF THE PRUDENTIAL COMMIT- TEE OF THE AMERICAN BOARD OF COMMISSION- ERS FOR FOREIGN MISSIONS. Gentlemen, The greater part of the observations here embodied vvere made in pursuance of Instruc tions received from you, and have never before been communicated in a digested form; and as this volume is prepared in obedience to your order, there seems to be an evident propriety in addressing it to you.

The work is designed to embrace such facts within my knowledge, relating to the principal objects of my inquiries, as I supposed would be acceptable to the public. It is a selection of facts from a much greater number, obtained by Mr. Smith and myself. There is another class of observations, of a nature to be interesting to the Directors of missions, rather than to the community at large. Most of these I have laid before you DEDICATION. already, and the others are at your command whenever you shall require them. I am sensible, that this work must have defects. The necessary documents were not all in my possession, for several months after my return from the Mediterranean; and, since they have been, numerous in terruptions, occasioned by the ordinary duties of my office, have, as you well know, been un avoidable.

Introduction

. — Reasons for a special agency to the Mediterranean — Embarkation — Sight of Europe and Africa— Contrast between the present and former religious condition of northern Africa— Remarks upon the Mediterranean and its coasts— Arrival at Malta — Quarantine — Intercourse with missionaries and others— St. Paul's Bay— Churches and palaces — Malta as a missionary station— Embark, with Rev. Eli Smith, for Greece — Objects ofthe tour in Greece — Political geography of the country— Route pursued — Plan of this work — Agency of Mr. Smith in it — Geographical nomenclature — The author desirous of subserving the interests of the Greek people — Has no pecuniary interest in the sale of this volume, 21 PART FIRST. NARRATIVE OF THE TOUR: including observations upon THE MORE INTERESTING LOCALITIES AND SCENERY; UPON THE SOIL, AGRICULTURE, AND PRODUCTIONS; THE EFFECTS OF WAR ON THE TOWNS, VILLAGES, AND PLANTATIONS; AND THE MAN NERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE INHABITANTS.

THE PELOPONNESUS. Chapter I. — Enter the province of Elis — Clarentsa — Chloumoutsi castle — Plain of Elis— Manner of travelling — Roads — From Clarentsi to Ali Chelebi — A khan — Enter the province of Achaia — Pastoral life — Palæo- Achaia — Church of St. Andrew — Patras — Profanation of the Sabbath — From Patras to Bostitsa — Scene of wretchedness — Hospitable reception — domestic employments — Bostitsa — Ancient republic of Achaia — From Bustitsa to Xilocastron — Remarks on the plains along the northern coast — Unexpected meeting — Enter the province of Argolis — Plain of Corinth — Arrival at the city, _______ 37 Chapter II.— Province of Argolis continued— Present condition of Corinth— Apostolical labors and Christian church in Corinth— Acrocorinthus, and the prospsct from thence— Sicyon— Propensity of the Greeks to multiply churches — Ride tothe Nemean plain— Customs on Easter Sunday — Isthmus of Corinth— American colony— Cenchrea— Isthmian town and wall— Hermione— Cranidi— Plain of Troezen— Commence our principal tour in the Peloponnesus — Eptdaurus— Grove of Æsculapius— Ligurion — Plain of Argos— Nauplion— Tiryns — Mycenæ — The harvest season— Argos — Funeral and marriage processions — Fountain of Erasinus — Marsh of Lerna — Cross mount Parthenium into the province of Arcadia. *i 5i CONTENTS.

VI 78 143 Chapter III. — Province of Arcadia — First appearance of Arcadia — A Grecian lady — Plain of Tegea — Tripolitsa — Gipsies — School — Route to Calabryta — Plain of Mantinea — Subterranean passages for water — Plain of Orchomenus— Plain of Dara— Branch of the Ladon— Beautiful glen— Another branch of the Ladon and charming plain — Elevated sites of villages— Romantic dell — Plain of Catsanes — Manner of ploughing and irri- . gating the ground and cultivating Indian corn — Ascend to the plain of Soudena — Southern limits ofthe modern Achaia — One of the capitani — Influence of elevation on climate — Magnificent scene — Calabryta — Route to the Convent of Megaspelæon — Description of the convent with its recent history — Plains on the river of Calabryta — Extent of arable ground — Ascent of mount Erymanthus — Valley of the Erymanthus — Psophis — Enter Elis again — Dibris — New aspect ofthe country, - Chapter IV. — Province of Elis continued — Productions of the plains — Lala — Douca — Plain of Olympia — Valley of the Alpheus — Re-enter the province of Arcadia — Rivers Erymanthus and Ladon — District of Liodoras — Albanian villages — Langadia — "Heap of cursing" — River Gortynius — Reception at Demetsana — School — Description of the place — Religious customs — Conversatiun with a school-master — On making the Scriptures our only rule of faith and practice — The Oeconomos of Demetsana — Muleteers — Costume — Food of the peasantry — Striking scenery on the road to Carytæna — Uarytæna — Theodore Colocotrones — Mount Lycæus and fine views — Andritsana and its .school — Another heap of cursing — Situation at night — Temple of Apollo Epicurius — River Neda — Enter the province of Upper Messema — Comparative interest of this province — Custom in relation to the dead — New range of mountains — Convenience of a tent — Scripture imagery from p__storal life — District and town of .-\rkadia — Road to JNavarino — Phitiatra — Reflections on the battle of Navarino — Navarino — Mothone — Corone, _-._.-___ iQO Chapter V. — Province of Lower Messewia — Arable ground bordering on the gulf— Nisi — River Pamisus and its plain — Mane— Calamata — Villages and fruit trees on the east side of the valley of Messenia — Fountain of the Pamisus — Messeite — Plain ofStenyclerus — Defile of Derbenia — Again enter Arcadia — Delghtful change of air — Leontari — Plain of Megalopolis and other objects seen from she castle of Leontari — Enter the province of Lacunia — Sabbath at the Fountain of the Eurotas — Villages and cultivated plain — Manner of treating the mulberry trees and silkworm — Superstition of the evil eye — Lacnnian rose — Plain of Sparta — Splendid scenery around Mistras — Mistras — Greek antipathy against the Jews — Lacedæmon — View from the castle cif Mistras — Produce of the plain — Sparta — Sclabo Chori — Middle regions of the Taygetus — District of Uardounia — Marathonesi — Populaiinu and products of Mane — Helos — Cross the Malaic peninsula — Monembasia

— End of the tour and remarks upon it — Extent of the desolations occasioned by the war — Extent of Agriculture — Trees and shrubs — Wild animals, - - 123 ISLANDS OF THE ÆGEAN.

Chapter VI.— Western Sporades— Hydra— Appearance of the town — Census — History of the island — Commerce and maritime power — Intercourse with the people — Spctsœ— Reception — Recent history — Principal causes of safety to the traveller in Greece— Remarks on the system of passports — Faros— Burying ground — View of the island and town — Women — Visit to the temple of Neptune— Monastery — Ægina— May -day — Temple of Jupiter Panhellenius— Refugees— Description of the town and island Grecian society— A monk requests that his epitome ofthe Gospels may be re-printed— Northern Cvclades— General aspect of the islands — Syra Roman Catholic town — Hermoupolis — Tenos — St. Nicholas — Marriage of Mr. King— Governor ofthe N. Cyclades— Church ofthe Evangelista— Andrt.3—Myc,nws—Dcl..8— Return to Syra— Desolation and ne«lect that have befallen the more sacred places of ancient Greece— Scio — Voyage to Smyrna — Return to Malta, - CONTENTS.

VII IONIAN ISLANDS. Chapter VII.— Voyage from Malta to the island of Corfu— Introduction to the Ionian Islands — Magnificent scenery of Epirus — Position and history ofthe Ionian Islands — Population ofthe islands— City of Corfu — Ancient temple— Excursion into the interior, with remarks upon the island— "Ship Ulysses"— Mount Ceraunia— Roads— Cultivation of the olive, and the moral consequences of this— Complexity in the rights of property— Professor Bambas— Preaching of Typnldos— Christian idolatry— Priesthood- Churches— Support of the clergy— Religious character ofthe people— Influence of Venetian policy— Toleration granted by the present Constitution — Connection between church and state — Bishops — Papal Greeks — Jews — Printing establishment— Versions of the Scriptures — Restrictions on the press — Masquerades — Obtain an interpreter for the tour, 166 Chapter VIII. — From Corfu to Santa Maura — Historical associations — Island of Paxo — Island of Santa Maura — Amaxichi — Remarks upon the island — Cefalonia — Argostoli — Lixuri — Ruins of Cranium — Convent of St. Andrew and female boarding school — Cross the island — Pilaro — Samos — Remarks upon the island and its inhabitants— Treatment received from the Greek clergy of Argostoli and cause of it — Intercourse with laymen — Island of Ithaca — Physical character — Bathi — Fountain of Arethusa — Social intercourse — Bishop of Ithaca — Castle of Ulysses— Detention — Police regulations — Chief occupation ofthe Ithacians — Island of Zante — City— Condition of females — Remarks upon the island, - lt5 PART SECOND.

CONTAINING OBSERVATIONS UPON THE TERRITORY, POPULATION, AND GOVERNMENT OF GREECE; UPON THE STATE AND PROSPECTS OF EDUCATION; UPON THE GREEK CHURCH; AND UPON THE MEASURES TO BE PURSUED BY PROTESTANTS FOR THE BENEFIT OF ORIENTAL CHURCHES. TERRITORY, POPULATION, AND GOVERN- MENT OF GREECE. Chapter I.— Territory, according to the Protocol of Feb. 3, 1830 — Population — Peloponnesus compared with the state of Massachusetts — Its ancient inhabitants never as many as might have been sustained by the products ofthe soil — A much greater number may be sustained now, than could have been in ancient times — Government — Manner of its first organization under the Presidency of Capo d'lstrias — Particular acts — Mode of collecting the tithes — Demogerontes and Extraordinary Commissioners — Judiciary — Proceedings in relation to the fourth national congress — Contemplated revision of the Constitution, 199 STATE AND PROSPECTS OF EDUCATION.

Chapter II.— State of education in the last century— Means of instruction enjoyed bv the Greeks previous to the revolution — Resort to foreign universities—Heroic patriotism of five hundred educated Greeks— Activity of the Grecian mind— Few books yet in Greece— Public spirit of the Zosi- CONTENTS. 359 253 333 mades-Elementary education quite overlooked before the , revolution- Great intereS beginning to be taken in it-Views, plans, and proceedings of the Greek government, - Chapter III.— Feeling among the people at large on the subject of education—Subscriptions in towns and villages for free-schools — Contributions made by convents — Individual munificence — Rise of the female school at Syra — Letter from a Greek female— "American School" at Syra — Sabbath school at Syra — Orphan school at Ægina — Schools at Nauplion, Argos, Tripolitsa and Demetsana — Scarcity of elementary books — In what manner a supply is to be furnished — What books would be acceptable — Vast importance of this branch of benevolent effort — Printing presses — On the establishment of schools — System of instruction in the Io nian Islands — Preliminary observations — Elementary schools — Classical schools — University — Theological Seminary — General remarks, - 225 THE GREEK CHURCH Chapter IV. — Considerations imparting an interest to the Greek church — Ancient churches of Corinth and Athens — Seminary at Athens — Bishoprics in Greece in the fourth century — View of the decline ofthe Greek churchy and ofthe introduction of some of its more remarkable usages — Gospel contaminated by false philosophy — Progress towards a splendid ritual — Regeneration believed to result from baptism — Origin of the prejudice against marriage — Rise of monachisin — Christianity becomes the religion of the Roman empire — Multiplication of churches — Rise of picture and image worship — Invocation of departed saints — Private confession — Pilgrimages, etc. — Origin of masses — Festivals — The church oppressed with rites and ceremonies — General councils — Idolatry at its height— Controversy on the subject — Councils — Triumph of idolatry — Controversy respecting the procession of the Holy Ghost — Greek fondness for controversy— Ignorance ofthe Scriptures — Vain effort to unite the eastern and western churches — Fall of Constantinople — Attempts of the Roman pontiff to subject the Greek church to his authority — Correspondence between the German reformers and the Greek patriarch — The patriarch Cyril Lucaris — His opinions anathematized — Doctrine of tran substantiation adopted by the Greek church — Reflections, -_-___.

Chapter V. — Present condition of the Greek Church. — Its extent — Its four patriarchates — Different orders of the clergy — Their revenue — Doctrines of the church — The seven mysteries, or sacraments — Fasts and feasts — Excommunication — Churches — Public worship — Public worship performed throughout the east in an unknown tongue — Colony of priests at Mount Athos, _---___. Chapter VI. — General remarks upon that part of the Greek church, which exists in liberated Greece — Ignorance and superstition of the people — Reasons for anticipating a reform — Missionary operations— Remarks upon the meauxes to be pursued by Protestants for the benefit of oriental churches, ----__.__ 301

Appendix

. — Names of places in Greece — Bearings of remarkable places and objects — Agricultural farm on the plain of Argos — Greek newspapers —Itinerary in the Peloponnesus, -

INTRODUCTION.

. Reasons for a special agency to the Mediterranean — Embarkation — Sight of Europe and Africa — Contrast between the present and former religious condition of northern Africa — Remarks upon the Mediterranean and its coasts — Arrival at Malta — Quarantine— Intercourse with the missionaries and others —St. Paul's Bay— Churches and palaces — Malta as a missionary station — Embark, with Rev. Eli Smith, for Greece — Objects of the tour in Greece — Political geography of the country — Route pursued— Plan of this work — Agency of Mr. Smith in it — Geographical nomenclature — The author desirous of subserving the interests of the Greek people — Has no pecuniary interest in the sale of this volume. Two general reasons induced the Prudential Com mittee of the Board of Foreign Missions in favor of a special agency to the Mediterranean.

(1.) The missionaries to Syria, being driven from their station by the political disturbances which agitated the Turkish empire, were in the island of Malta, and the Commit tee were anxious to confer with them in relation to future operations in the east. (2.) The Committee were desirous to know, more satisfactorily than they had the means of knowing, precisely what kind of efforts in behalf of liberated Greece were incumbent on the Board.* With these objects in view, I embarked at Boston, on the 28th of November 1828, for Malta. The passage across the Atlantic was boisterous, but the wind was generally fair, and in a little more than twenty days I saw the mountains of Europe and Africa. These were a welcome sight, after the eye had become wearied with the interminable level of the ocean. (a) For a more ample statement of the reasons for this agency, see Missionary Herald, vol. xxiv. p. 394.

VOYAGE. Those of Africa were connected with the great Atlan tean range. No Christian can gaze long upon Africa, without painful emotions. To think how near I was to the do minions of the False Prophet — to think of the vast extent of those dominions — of the deep moral and in tellectual darkness that covers them — and how faint the prospect is of a speedy and desirable change, — was enough to make one turn away with sickness of heart. Yet on turning towards Spain, the prospect was not much more cheering, for a spiritual gloom hung over that country, as dismal, almost, as when it was occupied by the Moors. How glorious, comparatively, was the state of North ern Africa in the age of the great Augustine! The light of the gospel then shone upon an extent of country stretching more than two thousand miles from the Atlan tic eastward, and from the Mediterranean two hundred, and even five hundred miles into the interior.

Within this space were more than four hundred and fifty bishoprics, each of which might embrace threescore or fourscore towns and villages;1- and if each town and village contained its church, which is probable, there were more than thirty thousand Christian churches in northern Africa. But these lights have all been ex tinguished, and with them the lights of science, civilization, and liberty. Having entered the Mediterranean, we inclined to the northern shore, and sailed along the coast of Spain. Mountains rose before us all the first day. The snowy top of Sierra Nivada, the highest in Spain, became visible before noon, resembling a white cloud. At the setting of the sun it was comparatively near, and the summit was adorned with the most brilliant colors. Broad streams of light descended on the ridges, diverg ing from the top, and finely contrasted with the deep shades of the ravines.

(b) Bingtam's Antiquities of the Christian Church, vol. iii. p. 351. ARRIVAL AT MALTA. 23 The next day we stood over towards Africa, and should have seen it, had the southern atmosphere been clear; yet the mountains of Spain continued visible. Indeed this sea, for nearly two hundred miles eastward of Gibraltar, does not exceed thirty leagues in width, so that the Carthagenian sailor did not here lose sight of land in fanweather, and could dispense the better with the compass and quadrant. I may add, that a vessel sails nearly five hundred miles eastward of Gibraltar, without being more than thirty-five leagues from elevated land. Still further east, we had a view of Africa and Sardinia, at the same time. Sicily must be visible from Cape Bon, the lofty promontory at the entrance of the gulf of Carthage; and when only a few miles beyond that cape, we distinctly saw the island of Pantellaria, full thirty leagues in the direction of Malta.

Sicily may be seen from Malta. Mount Ætna is a conspicuous object far off at sea; and in southern Italy, in continental Greece, in the Peloponnesus, in Candia and other islands of the Archipelago, in Asia Minor, and in Syria, there are lofty heights, raised as if for a guide tothe mariner. While contemplating the rugged profile which almost every coast presented, it was pleasing to think how many beacons the merciful Creator had erected around these shores, and of the aid they had rendered to the many generations of sailors, who were obliged to grope their way in the deep, without the improvements that facilitate modern navigation. Our voyage up the Mediterranean was not distinguished by anything remarkable. The distance from Gibraltar to Malta is about a thousand miles, and the whole distance from Boston to Malta may not be far from four thousand.

On the first day ofthe year 1829, we took on board a dark-looking Maltese pilot, and at two P. M. were safely anchored in the quarantine harbor of Valetta, the principal port of Malta. We were subjected to a quarantine of seven days. The health officer handed us printed regulations for the quarantine on the end of a long stick, to avoid contagion, INTERCOURSE WITH MISSIONARIES. and the letters we brought were fumigated in sulphur, before any person was permitted to touch them. Wher ever we went we were accompanied by a guard, whose duty it was to see that we touched no one, and that no one touched us. The day after our arrival, I removed to the Lazar etto,0 and occupied an apartment looking out on the lofty battlements of Valetta. The seclusion here is not entire. In ordinary cases the inmates are allowed to converse with each other wherever they chance to meet, remembering only to preserve the proper distance.

But the intercourse with all persons not in quarantine, must be in the parlatorio, or place for conversation, where barriers are interposed to pre vent a near approach of the parties. There I saw my brethren of the mission, Messrs. Bird, Goodell, Smith, and Hallock, and nearly all the members of their respective families; and either while in the Laz aretto, or soon after, I became acquainted with Mr. Schlienz, of the Church Missionary Society, and his two assistants; with Mr. Wilson, of the London Mis sionary Society; with Mr. Keeling, of the Wesleyan Methodist Society; and with Mr. Nicolayson, of the London Jews Society. Mr. Schlienz is from the Basle Missionary Seminary, and is the associate of Mr. Jowett, (then in England,) the well-known author of two inter esting volumes of Christian Researches in the Mediter ranean, of which one has been republished in this country .d Mr. Nicolayson was a missionary to the Jews in Syria, and left that country, with Mrs. Nico layson, at the same time with our brethren, and for the same reasons.

Mr. Wilson and Mr. Keeling have been in Malta some years. — Mr. Abbott, the English consul (c) A Lazaretto is an edifice appointed for the temporary residence of persons, and also for the reception and purification of certain articles, coming from places suspected of the plague, or of other contagious dis eases. One of the great objects of the philanthropic Howard, was to as certain and improve the condition of these institutions. (d) Christian Researches in Syria and the Holy Land. REMARKS UPON THE ISLAND. for Beyroot, was at that time in Malta, and, with his excellent lady, continued those attentions, which, under more trying circumstances, had contributed so much to the happiness of our missionaries in Syria.e I am bound to acknowledge, also, my obligations to Thomas McGill, Esq., an English gentleman holding the office of Greek consul at Malta, who, besides giving me valuable information, furnished my companion and myself with letters, which were of much use to us in Greece.

I remained at Malta till the 25th of February. The results of my intercourse with the missionaries of the Board and of other societies, will not be here related — except so far as to say, that nearly all the measures, which have been adopted by the Prudential Committee since my return, with regard to the Mediterranean mission, were then discussed, and received the full sanction of our brethren. f Malta has been so often described, within a few years past, that I omit nearly all the notices respecting that island, which I had entered in my journal. Of course, I became familiar with the city and suburbs of Valetta; and I once made an excursion to the bay, where the apostle Paul is supposed to have suffered shipwreck, and also to the archiepiscopal city in its neighborhood, called Citta Vecchia.

The Bay of St. Paul is on the eastern coast of Malta, about six miles north of Valetta, and not far from the little island of Gozo, by some regarded as the island of Calypso. How much there is to countenance the tra dition, that Paul was shipwrecked in this bay, will apie) He has since returned lo Beyroot. (f) The Rev. Messrs. Whiting and Dwight have been sent out as a re inforcement of the mission. The mission to Syria has been resumed by Messrs. Bird and Whiting. Messrs. Smith and Dwight have proceeded on an exploring tour into Armenia. The Greek press has been employed, more vigorously, in the printing of school-books; and it has been decided, with the advice and concurrence of the missionaries, to continue the printing establishment, for the present, at Malla. That establishment is de signed for printing in various languages, and, under existing circumstances, can operate more advantageously in that island, than it can at Smyrna, or in Greece. st. paul' s bay. pear in the opposite sketch, taken by Mr. Bird, which correctly exhibits the topography of the bay.

I have added an explanation, which will be found below. The high probability that here is the scene of the events recorded in the close of the twenty-seventh chapter of Acts, imparted a peculiar interest to the shores and waters of this bay. God had assured the apostle of life, and therefore the stormy wind, and boisterous sea, and dashing surge roaring from the rocks, could not make him afraid. Yet when the morning broke out of the long tempestuous night, with what intenseness must he have surveyed the coast to see where they were to land; and how must his soul have burned with gratitude, when he discovered the "creek with a shore;" and with what overpowering sensations must he have found himself and his companions "escaped all safe to land." I would not worship Paul, as the papist does, nor would I erect temples in honor of him; but no pious man can stand and look on this spot, and believe that here trans pired the events recorded on the sacred page above referred to, without some thrilling emotions.

On our way from Valetta to Citta Vecchia, we trav elled over a soft, white freestone, covered with a thin, EXPLANATION OF ST. PAUL'S BAY AND SHIPWRECK. The ship might have anchored at a or at b. The inlet c has very much the appearance of a creek, and would lead us to think lhat the anchorage was at b. m is an island, and two seas meet at d, where the water is too shallow for such a vessel as Paul was in to pass through. Whether Ihe anchorage was at a or at b, the ship might "fall into" this place, and run aground. With the Euroclydon. or northeast wind, (the present Levanter,) she would not, indeed, be likely to fall upon d, if lhe mariners, afler get ting under way at b, steered for the creek c; but they might have manag ed unskilfully, or more probahly the wind had changed to the southeast, or south.

There is a "shore," or good landing place, al e, and also atg, and on the creek c. From lhe island m to n (where the Maltese pretend Publius had a country-house,) is upwards of a mile. The rock at lhe point s, where are salt works, runs under water, and some have supposed the vessel struck on this point, and that we are to understand the phrase "where two seasmet," as intended to denole the meeting of the waves from the opposite'sides of such a low projection; but at s, it would now be scarcely possible, after a slorm, to effect a general landing on boards and broken pieces of a ship Iflhe vessel struck at d, it would be possible lo land at e, especially if the wind had changed to the southward, as thc shore is near, low, and sandy, and the water shallow. Alg and c are also fine landings. The shore atp is precipitous, and at r rough and dangerous.

ST. PAUL'S BAY AND ITS ENVIRONS.* VIEW OF THE ISLAND AND CAPE ON THE N. W. SIDE OF THE BAY. * For an Explanation, see Note on the opposite page. CHURCHES AND PALACES. 29 but luxuriant soil, which was supported on die hillsides by terrace-walls of stone, forming offsets rising one above another. Artificial levels are thus produced. Several villages lie between the two cities, each ofwhich has a large and costly church. Within two miles of Citta Vecchia, the aqueduct, supplying Valetta vvith wa ter, rises suddenly out of the ground, and runs a con siderable distance by the road side, supported by some hundreds of arches. Citta Vecchia stands on an emi nence, in the centre of the island, and near the cele brated labyrinth of catacombs. Here was a considerable town, called Melita, or Medina, before the knights of Rhodes took possession of Malta.

Hence the name of Citta Vecchia, or the ancient city. It is not large, but its situation, walls, and cathedral, render it conspicuous. The cathedral is a sumptuous edifice, inferior in magnificence only to the church of St. John in Valetta. The pavement of this latter church is regarded as one of the richest in the world. It is composed entirely of sepulchral monuments of the finest marbles, porphyry, lapis lazuli, and other valuable stones, admirably put together, and representing, in a kind of Mosaic, the arms and insignia of the persons they are designed to com memorate. The recesses, or chapels as they are called, are adorned with bronze and sculpture of the finest de scription; the arched roof is ornamented with paintings; and round the church hung tapestry, interesting in de sign, and rich in execution.