The Hawaiian Islands: their progress and condition under missionary labors

Front matter

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Preface

When the author had prepared the " Memorial Volume " of the Board's First Half Century^ three years ago, the belief was expressed that it was among the closing labors of his somewhat protracted official life. He little thought, then, that it would become his duty to visit the Sandwich (or Hawaiian) Islands, and, as a consequence, to prepare another volume for publication. But " it is not in man that walketh to direct his steps." Fourteen thousand miles are soon traversed in these days of steam ; and the Island-visit, — in a fine climate, among beloved missionaries, and in close contact with the native Christians, — though laborious, was a source of constant pleasure. It was an opportunity for "fellowship in the gospel" such as earth seldom affords.

On his return home he was naturally expected to prepare

tt report of his mission. There was not time, however,

before the Annual Meeting of the Board, for drawing up

anything \ike an extended report ; and the deficiency was 1* (5)

VI PREFACE.

then supplied, as far as it could be, by a verbal statement to the meeting.

Afterwards, on resuming the preparation of his report, he soon found reason to believe, that a suitable memorial of the Lord's work on those Islands required a wider and freer range of statement than was befitting a document of that nature. Referring the matter to the Prudential Committee, he was advised to give himself the latitude of a volume, and was left to take his own course in its preparation.

The work is written throughout with reference to a single

object THAT OF SHOWINa WHAT GOD HAS BEEN PLEASED

TO DO ON THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS, THROUGH THE GOSPEL

OP HIS Son and the labors of his missionary servants. The author has presented the case just as it appeared to him, after a forty years' correspondence with the missionaries, and after a sojourn of four months upon the Islands, all the while in the most confidential intercourse with those best acquainted with their religious condition. And he has fortified his own statements with such other testimony as seemed necessary to insure to them the confidence of the Christian community.

It was a thing of course that, to one on a mission of this nature, the best side of the Hawaiian people would every-

PREFACE. Vll

where be presented. For the most part, the author's intercourse was necessarily with church-members, and with the best portion of them. This was in harmony with one of the grand objects of his visit, which was to ascertain the nature and the extent of Christianity upon the Islands. With a similar object in view, he could not have had better opportunities, within the same period of time, in London, or even in New York or Philadelphia.

The compression of the materials into a volume of moderate size required double the labor that was expected to be necessary, and also the sacrifice of much that seemed important to the life and spirit of the narrative. For more ample details in the early history of the Islands and of the mission, the reader will need to resort to works frequently referred to in this volume.

"The preliminary historical sketch, occupying the first six chapters, is thought to be all that is needful to introduce the reader to the Islands in their present state. The next six chapters, describing the tour, were written with the leading object of the visit constantly in view. They will serve as a further introduction to the* ten subsequent chapters, on the social, civil, religious, and ecclesiastical condition and prospects of the people. The chapter on the " Reformed Catho-

Vm PREFACE.

lie Mission " has been prepared with care ; and that mission will receive, it is hoped, the attention, both in this country and in England, which it demands as an uncourteous and alarming innovation in the working of Protestant missions. What is said of the apprehended dangers on those Islands, will enable God's people more deeply to sympathize with those veteran soldiers of the cross, who have resolved to lay their bones among the trophies of their spiritual contests and victories. The concluding chapters will have a practical value to the increasing number of Christian people who are interested in the development of the missionary enterprise.

It will be seen that the Hawaiian mission is treated as an experiment; and should it be thought to have been on a small scale, it will be remembered, that experiments are usually made thus, and that they are not the less satisfactory and decisive on that account. Nor are the results on the Hawaiian Islands wanting in real magnitude. If those Islands contained no huge ancient fortresses, like those of Asiatic paganism, to be overthrown, the mission found tliere a social demoralization and decay almost beyond a parallel, tending to the speedy destruction of the entire people. Its labors have effected a signal triumph, through the grace of

PREFACE, IX

Grod ; and it now only remains to be seen whether that infant community of Protestant Christians will be able to withstand the onset to be made upon it by the extreme ritualistic portion of the Church of England. If such a conflict is to be, we shall doubtless have the sympathies and prayers, if nothing more, of that large evangelical portion of the English Church which so liberally sustains one of the most honorable and efficient of the great Missionary Societies. It was deemed the author's duty to apprise the churches of the existence and nature of this evil, lest they should not become seasonably aware of the danger.

The adjustments that have been made, regarding the mission as in some important sense a completed work, will be viewed with that forbearance which is due to first and untried measures on a national scale. Should any of them be found ill adapted to the end in view, they may still be useful, leading to the discovery of " a more excellent way." There must surely be some method, in the great process of the world's conversion, for getting nations, converted from heathenism, free from dependence on the older churches of Christendom, when they shall have come sufficiently under gospel influences.

X PREFACE.

The author thankfully acknowledges his obligations to the Rev. Isaac R. Worcester, editor of the Board's monthly publication, for his valuable criticisms, extended through the volume. The same acknowledgment is due to several members of the Prudential Committee, in respect to some of the more important chapters. He would gladly have delayed the publication longer, in order that the work might be made more deserving of public interest ; but that could not be. Prepared amid unceasing interruptions, it is sent forth in obedience to what seemed a positive duty, and with the hope that it will be received by the friends and supporters of missions as a seasonable and truthful memorial of one of the most remarkable among the spiritual revolutions which the Church of Christ has been permitted to record.

Missionary House, Boston, September, 1864.

Contents

I. PRELIMINAKY HISTORY.

Chapter I. The Islands Before The Arrival Of Missionaries

Their Discovery. — Name of the Group. — Names of the Islands. — Importance of their Position. — Superficial Contents. — Origin. — Climate. — - Vancouver. — Early Decline of Population. — Prevalence of Infanticide. —Origin of the People. — Population in 1820. — Productions. — Resort of Ships. — Moral Inefficacy of Civilization. — Character of Kamehameha. — His alleged Cession of Hawaii to Great Britain. — Conquest of the Islands. — Division of the Lands. — Government. — Wives and Children. — Death and Obsequies. — Accession of Liholiho. — Destruction of the Tahu and Idols. — Motives to this. — Consequent Civil "War. 25

Chapter II. The Islands After The Arrival Of Missionaries

Occurrences leading to a Mission. — The Mission. — First Intelligence of the Change at the Islands. — Reception of the Mission. — Establishments at Kailua, at Honolulu, and on Kauai. — Interesting School at Kailua. —

HostecHby VjOOQ IC

Xii CONTENTS.

Reducing' the Language to "Writing. — Unfriendly Foreign Influence. — Unexpectedly counteracted. — Arrival of Mr. Ellis. — Further Destruction of Idols. — Notice of several. — School of Chiefs. — The Farmer returns Home. — First Keenforcement. — The King's Letter to the Captain. — Keopuolani, the Queen-Mother. — Liholiho's Visit to England. — - Farewell Address of Kamamalu, his Queen. — Their Sickness and Death in London. — Charge received by Survivors from the English Sovereign. — Character of Liholiho. — The Visit not inauspicious to the Islands. — Christian Influence of Kaahumanu. — Kapiolani's Visit to Kilauea. — Lord Byron's Visit to the Islands. — Great Religious Change in the Government, — Church and State not connected. — Vast Congregation at Kawaihae. — Great Meeting-houses. — Dedication of one at Kailua. — Schools. — Testimony of Mr. John Young. — Origin of the Roman Catholic Mission. — Outrages by Foreign Seamen. — Death of Kalanimoku.— Death and Character of Kaahumanu. — Accession of Kamehameha III. — His Opinion of the Strength of the Christian Institutions. — The several Reenforcements of the Mission.— Summary View 45

Chapter III. The Islands To The Time Of Their Conversion To Christianity

Testimony of Governor Kekuanaoa as to the Former State of the Islands.

— The Government ask for Teachers in Secular Matters. — The Signers.

— Like Request from the Mission. — Why not complied with. — Aid from Missionaries indispensable to the Government. — Civil Government necessary for the Safety of the Church. — School for young Chiefs. — Testimony of Hon. Robert Crichton Wyllie. — Early Influences of the Holy Spirit. — Increased Vigor in Prosecuting the Mission. — Reason for it. — The Great Awakening, and its Results. — On the Admission of Converts

to the Church 73

CONTENTS. Xlll

Chapter IV. The Islands Regarded As Christianized

Reasons for adducing- Testimony. — That of the Missionaries in 1848. — The Witnesses. — Former Nature of the Government. — Contrast of the former and present Character and Condition of the People. — Schools and Education. — Progress in Civilization. — Testimony in 1860 of Mr. Richard H. Dana.-— What the Missionaries have done. — What they are. — Schools and Education. — How the Missionaries were regarded by foreign Visitors and Residents. — Struggle between Good and Evil. — Influence of Missionaries on the Government. — How the Nation has been preserved. — Safety of the Traveller. — Prevalent Influence of Religion. ~ Estimate of the Missionaries . • • 91

Chapter V. Measures Consequent Upon The Conversion Of The Islands

True Idea of a Mission. — Its Application to the Hawaiian Islands. — New Measures adopted. — ■ These partly successful. — • Difficulties encountered. — The great Difficulty. — Light from an unexpected Quarter. — New Problem. — The Resort for its Solution 107

Chapter VI. Voyage To The Islands, And A Week At The Metropolis

Question of Duty. — Companions of the Voyage, — Railroad across the Isthmus. — A magnificent Coast. —From San Francisco to the Islands. 2

Xiv CONTENTS,

— Honolulu. — Introduction to the Queen. — The Ofl&cers of Government. — - Governor Kekuanaoa. — Favorable Impression of Social Life in the Capital. — Introduction to the Native Christian Community 115 n. TOUR OF THE ISLANDS.

Chapter VII. Hawaii

The Propeller Kilauea. — Approach to Hawaii. — The King and Queen. — First Landing. — The Northern Coast. — Magnificent Scenery of Hilo.— Welcome Reception. — The Memorable Past.— -A Christian Congregation.— Visit to the great Volcano. — A Baptism. — Religion in Rural Districts. — The Hilo Station. — Boarding Schools. — District of Kau. — Missionary Station at Waiohinu. — Interesting Services at the Church. — Historical Review.— The Children instead of the Fathers 127

Chapter VIII. Hawaii

Fatiguing Ride. — Vast Lava Deposits. — Family Scene. — Enter Kona.— Pleasant Sojourn. — Kealakekua Bay. — Home of Kapiolani and Naihe.

— Their Christian Labors. — Results. — Their Farewell to Mr. Stewart.

— Their Death. — The Station. — City of Refuge. — Last Battle for the Idols. — Fiery Cataract. — Home of Obookiah. — Christian Congregation.

— Monthly Concert Contribution . — Scenes on the Way to Kailua. — Lands owned by Foreigners. ~ The First Station. — Interesting Anniversary

CONTENTS. XV

and Sabbath. — The People coming to Church. — Female Equestrians. — Meeting the Lunas. •— Church Edifice and Congregation. — Horses tied in the Fields. — Celebration of the Lord's Supper 142

Chapter IX. Hawaii

Lauding at Kohala. — Mr. Bond's Opinion of his Church. —■ Congregation on a Rainy Day — Over the Mountains of Kohala to Waimea. — Desolated Fields and Villages. — Former Games and Sports. — Cause of their Decline. — Effect of radiated Heat. — Fine View of Mauna Kea. — Mauna Loa, and the Eruption of 1859. -r- Enthusiastic Meeting. — Address by Timot^a. — Original Hymn by Liana. — Version by Mr. Bingham. — Native Customs. — Mr. Bond's District. — District of Mr. Lyons. — - Estimate of his Field. — - Kawaihae and the Great Heiau. — Incident in the Life of Timot^a 159

Chapter X. Maui

Wailuku. — Historic Facts. — Soil and Productions. -— Meeting-houses. — Sabbath Congregation. — Native Address. — Station of Mr. Green in East Maui. — Mountain Scenery. — Field of branching Coral. — Lahaina. — Church-building. — Lord's Supper. — Historical. — The Queen-Mother Keopuolani. — Beautiful Instance of filial Love in the King. — The Queen's Baptism. — Crisis made by her Death. — Native College at Lahainaluna. — Made over to the Government. — Native Clergymen from the Graduates. — Commencement. — Alumni. — Dinner. — Schools at Lahaina. — Hana. — Molokai. — Monthly Concert. — Steam Sugar Mill.— Roman Catholics 176

XVI CONTENTS.

Chapter XI. Oahu

Social Intercourse. — Mr. Corwiu and the Foreign Church. — Mr. Damon, Seamen's Chaplain. — President Mills and Mrs. Mills. — A Native Judge.

— Honolulu. — l^rst Church. — Second Church. — Interesting Ordination.— Rev. Hiram Bingham. — Levi Chamberlain. — Koyal Cemetery.— Oahu College. — Tour of the Island. — Ewa. — Waialua. — Journey along the Northern and Eastern Shore. — Sugar Plantations. — Lassoing, — Kaneohe. — The Pali. — Unexpected Danger 192

Chapter XII. Kauai

The Voyage. — The Island. — Waioli. — Congregation in a Kukui Grove. — Beautiful Plantation at Hanalei. — Fertility of the District. — Touching Incident. — Hospitality. — Governor Kanoa. — Koloa. — Fearful Deluge.

— Waimea. ~ Old Jonah. — Island of Niihou. — Return to Honolulu. — Delicate Testimonial 213

III. PEOPLE OF THE ISLANDS.

Chapter XIII. Their Social And Civil Condition

Aim of the Mission. — Improved Social Condition of the People. — Relations of Missionaries to a Barbarous Government. — Declaration of the Mission. — No Improper Influence. — Mr. Richards the chosen Counsellor of the Government. — Magna Charta. — Constitution. — Code of Laws. — Christian Tone of the Constitution. — Laws at first necessarily imperfect. — Exemplary Punishment. — Revision of the Statutes. — The

CONTENTS. XVll

National Religion. — The Religion free. — The Christian Sabbath.— Churches and Parsonages. — Days of Fasting and Thanksgiving. — Structure of the Government » 229

CHAPTER XIY.

INDUSTRY AND COMMERCE.

Industry: Arable Land. — Scarcity of Labor. — Coolies. — Cane Lands.

— Taro and Rice Lands. — Capacity for sustaining Population. — Sugar Plantations and their Product. — Coffee. — Wool. — Cotton. — Oranges.

— Hawaiians and Labor. — What is needed. — Commerce: Amount of Trade. — Merchant Vessels. — Whalers. — Coasting Fleet. — Conditions

of National Prosperity. 246

CHAPTER XY.

SCHOOLS AND LITERATURE.

Schools : The first Pupils Adults. — Their Number. — Teachers.— Readers. — Cheapness of Instruction. — The Youth brought into the Schools. — Their Number. — Schools for Teachers. — Government assumes the Support of the Common Schools. — Tabular View of Government Schools.— Their Cost.— School for the Chiefs. — The Government and High Schools.

— Oahu College. — Literature: Hawaiian Language. — Its Alphabet.

— Amount of Printing. — Works in the Language. — Contemplated Progress. — Susceptibility of the People to be influenced by their Liter- * ature 254

CHAPTER XVI.

DECLINE OF POPULATION.

How far Civilization is responsible for the Decline. — Statement. — Sources •of Information. — The Climate and Diseases of the Islands. — Small 2*

XVlll CONTENTS,

Number of Children. — Causes of the Decline.— These in Operation before the Gospel came. — Singular Effect of destructive Epidemics. — Influence of the Gospel 269

CHAPTER XVII.

CHARACTER OF THE PROTESTANT CHURCHES.

Rule of Judging. — Church of Corinth. — Church in Madagascar. — Church in India. — Whence unfavorable Views. — Civilized and Uncivilized Piety.

— Favorable View of Piety at the Islands. — Contrast of Past and Present. — More easy for the Fallen to rise again. — Another Reference to the Corinthian Church. — Extreme Debasement of the Heathen World. — Cheering Fact in the Hawaiian Ministry. — Comparative View.

— Family Prayer. — Morning Prayer-meetings. — Confidence in Prayer.

— Addresses. — The People clothed. — How best interested. — Interesting Audiences. — The "Aloha." — Church-building.— Statistics of the Hawaiian Churches. — Benevolence. — Paganism no longer known. . . 279

IV. ECCLESIASTICAL DEVELOPMENT.

CHAPTER XVIII.

ECCLESIASTICAL DEVELOPMENT PREVIOUS TO 1863.

Business transacted at first by the Mission as an organized Body. — An Association formed for Ecclesiastical Matters.— Much other Business. — The Native Churches a Development of the Mission Church. — Association reorganized, and all Business transferred to it. — How Ecclesiastical Government came to be exercised by the Missionary Body. — Difficulties

CONTENTS, XIX

in the Way of a Change. — The Time for a Change come.— - The Ends to he secured 307

CHAPTER XIX.

THE BELIGIOUS CONVOCATION AND ITS RESULTS.

Organization of the Body. — The Topics under Discussion, — - Great Unanimity.— The Results. — Native Churches and Pastors. — Ecclesiastical Control no longer with the Missionary. — Native Pastors and Laymen to come into all Ecclesiastical and Charitable Bodies. — Deliberations to be in the Native Language. — Education of the Native Ministry. — Female Boarding Schools. — The Press. — Home Missions. — Children of Missionaries. — Older Missionaries no longer supported by Native Churches. — Reorganization of the Hawaiian Evangelical Association — Formation of a Hawaiian Board. — Correspondence to be maintained with the American Board. — The Responsibilities of the* American Board to be transferred to the Hawaiian Board. — Micronesia Mission. — The Grand Result. — A Glorious Triumph of the Gospel. — A Protestant Christian Nation. — Well governed.— The late King. — Letter to him. . * . . . . 315

V. OTHEK MISSIONS.

CHAPTER XX.

THE REFOKMED CATHOLIC MISSION.

Name of the Mission. — Reason for the present Statement. — Such a Mission not originally requested by the King. — Official Letters. — Letter from Mr. Ellis. — Letter to Archbishop Sumner. — The Archbishop's Reply. — Bishop of London. — Opposition to the Measure, — Government

XX CONTENTS.

License. — Consecration of Bishop Staley. — Statement of the Bishops.

— Results. — Letter of tlic Dean of Windsor. — Desirableness of an Episcopal Presbyter at Honolulu. — An-ival of the Mission at the Islands. — Ilig-h-clmrch Stand taken by it. — ]*,aptism of the Youny Prince.

— Difference in-Doctrinal and Practical Keliyious View.-^. — On Confirmation. — Dr. Staley's two printed Sermons, — Leading- Features of the Religion he is to propagate on the Islands. — The People hard to be interested. — The Worship too showy for them.— Public Discourtesy towards the Protestant Clergy at the Royal Funeral. — Influence of the New Mission in the Hawaiian Government. — Popular Unrest. — The Question for the American Board. — The Reformed Catholic Mission an Invasion in the Hour of Victory. — Another similar Movement in the Church of England. — Extracts from a Speech of the Earl of Shaftesbury 331

CHAPTER XXI.

ROMAN CATHOLIC MISSION.— THE MORMONS.

Origin of the Roman Catholic Mission. — Claim made by the Government.

— The First Missionaries sent away. — The American Missionaries not accessory to this. — Why they were sent away. — Protestant 3Iissionaries opposed to Persecution. — British Consul and Irish Priest. — Violence of a French Naval Officer. — Oppressive Exactions. — Their Effect.

— Present State of the Mission. —Defective Statistics. — Scantiness of Materials for a History of Romish Missions. — This true of their Mission on the Hawaiian Islands. — The Success and Comparative Power of Romish Missions over-estimated. — Dr. Venn's Work on the Life of Xavier a Corrective. — The Mormons 360

CONTENTS. XXI

VI. THE PRESENT POSITION.

CHAPTER XXII.

APPREHENDED DANGERS.

In Respect to the Missionaries. — Their Children. — The Native Ministry.

— From the Complex Nature of the Protestant Community. — Of Decline in the Native Churches.— From Changes in the Industrial Pursuits. — From Invasions by Adverse Sects. — The Ground of Hope 373

CHAPTER XXIII.

PRACTICAL LESSONS.

Supernatural Power involved in the Success of the Mission. — On Conflicting Testimonies concerning the Mission. — The Gospel precedes Civilization.— The Encouragement to be given to Native Effort. — Missions to be brought to a Seasonable Close.— The Native Pastorate. — Female Education. — The English Language 381

CHAPTER XXIY.

Conclusion

The Mission an Experiment in Foreign Missions. — Its Value enhanced by the Difficulties overcome. — Not dependent on Future Events. — Present Relations of the Hawaiian Protestant Community. — The Responsibilities. — "What the Island Churches will most need. — Missionaries, as a body, not given to Exaggeration. — Why they are not. — No safer or more profitable Investment than in the Foreign Missionary Enterprise.

— The Cliurches entreated never to forget this Portion of Christ's Kingdom 396

XXll UONTJiNTS.

APPENDICES.

Portions of the Introductory Address delivered at the Convocation in Honolulu.— The Address to the Children of the Missionaries, with their Response. — An Account of the Organization of the Board of the Hawaiian Evangelical Association. — The Address of the Association to the Foreign Secretary of the American Board. — The Action of tlio Prudential Committee and of the Board on the Secretary's Report. — Extracts from Bishop Staley's Sermons 408 list nf SUttsttDtinns.

I. Kamehameha III Facing Title-page. Page

II. Map of the Hawaiian Islands 24

III. Relations of the Hawaiian Islands 27

IV. The Poison-god 55

V. War-god Tairi 56

VI. Great Idol at the Missionary House 57

VII. LONO 58

VIII. Kekauluohi 79

IX. Stone Church at Honolulu. • 119

X. Outline View of Hawaii from the Eastward 128

XI. Native Grass House. 137

XII. Kealakekua Bay 147

XIII. Kative Woman on Horseback 157

XIV. Harbor of Honolulu 195

XV. Congregation in a Kukui Grove 215

XVI. Native Congregation in 1823 295

1 a ti ;t .

II X u A i I ;

1 a ti ;t .

II X u A i I ;

PRELIMINARY HISTORY.

^i

Cv,

PRELIMINARY HISTORY.

Chapter I. The Islands Before The Arrival Of Mission- Aries

Their Discovery. — Name of the Group. — Names of the Islands. — Importance of their Position. — Superficial Contents. — Origin. — Climate. — Vancouver. — Early Decline of Population. — Prevalence of Infanticide. — Origin of the People. — Population in 1820. — Productions. — Resort of Ships. — Moral Inefficacy of Civilization. — Character of Kamehameha. — His alleged Cession of Hawaii to Great Britain. — Conquest of the Islands. — Division of the Lands. — Government. — Wives and Children. — Death and Obsequies. — Accession of Liholiho. — Destruction of the Tabu and Idols. — Motives to this. — Consequent Civil War.

The Sandwich Islands were so named by Captain James Cook, their discoverer, in 1778 ; but that name is nowhere recognized in the constitution and laws of the islands. The group is there called the Hawaiian Islands, and this is the name used by the inhabitants. The islands are ten in number, and stretch from the south-east towards the north-west, in the following order: Ha-wai-i, Mau-i, Mo-lo-ki-ni, Ka-hu-la-we, La-nai, Mo-lo-kai, 0-a-hu, E[au-ai, Ni-i-hau, and

3 (25)

Kau-la. They are situated between 18^ 50' and 22^ 20' north latitude, and 154° 53' and 160° 15' west longitude from Greenwich. Their distance from Panama is 4800 miles ; from San Francisco, 2100 ; from Japan, 3400. They lie midway between the western terminus of the Panama Railroad and China, and nearly on the straight line between the two. Their distance from Australia is but little more than it is from China. The four largest and most important islands are Hawaii, Maui, Oahu, and Kauai. ^ The length, breadth, and superficial contents of the group

* The following directions for pronouncing some of the principal names will be helpful to the reader : —

Ha-wai-i, pronounced as Ha-wye-e.

Kau-ai, " " Kow-i, or Kow-eye.

Ke-a-la-ke-ku-a, '* *' Kay-ah-lah-kay-koo-ah.

Mau-i, ** " Mow-e.

Wai-a-ke-a, " " AVye-ah-kay-ah.

Wai-pi-o, '♦ '< Wye-pe-o.

Ki-lau-e-a, *' " Ke-low-A-ah.

Mou-na-Lo-a, ** <' Mow-nah-lo-ah.

Mou-na-Ke-a, " " Mow-nah-kay-ah.

Ka-a-wa-lo-a, " '< Kah-ah-wah-lo-ah.

Ka-me-ha-me-ha, " " Kah-me-hah-me-hah.

Li-ho-li-ho, " " Lee-ho-lee-ho.

Ka-a-hu-ma-nu, " " Kah-ah-hoo-mah-noo.

Ke-o-pu-o-la-ni, " " Kay-o-poo-o-lah-ne.

Ku-a-ki-ni, " " Koo-ah-ke-ne.

Bo-ki, «' " Bo-ke.

Li-li-ha, ** " Le-le-hah.

are thus stated by the Rev. William Ellis, in his interesting Narrative of a Tour through Hawaii, performed in 1823 : —

Length.

Breadth.

Square Miles

Hawaii, .

. . 97 . .

. 78 . .

Maui, . .

. . 48 . .

29 . . ,

Kahulawe,

. . 11 . .

Lanai, . .

. . 17 . .

. 9 . .

. 100

Molokai, .

. . 40 . .

. 7 . . ,

Oahu, . .

. . 46 . . ,

Kauai,

. . 33 . .

Niihau, .

. 20 . .

7 . . ,

Kaula, ) ,. , , , , Ti«- , 1 . . i httle more than barren rocks. Molokim, )

The group contains six thousand square miles. The circumference of Hawaii is about three hundred miles ; that of Oahu is nearly one hundred. The whole group had a volcanic origin. Reefs of coral are found on some parts of the coast, though to a much smaller extent than in some of the southern gi^oups. It is by one of these coral reefs that the fine harbor of Honoluhi is formed. The trade winds strike the eastern side of the islands, and there it frequently rains : on the mountains there are rains almost daily ; but on the leeward side they are infrequent. On the rainy side of Haw^aii a large number of perennial streams fall into the sea, sometimes forming lofty and beautiful cascades. It is along the windward side of the islands that disintegration is most advanced, and the soil most abundant and fertile ; and it is there that the sugar plantations are now being multiplied. Forests abound in the mountains. The islands all lie within the range of the trade winds, which blow with great regularity nine months in the year. Where mountains obstruct their course, there are regular land and sea breezes. Occasionally a prolonged gale comes from the south, called a Souther, or " Kona." There was none between February and July, 1863, and they are said to have been of rare occurrence for the few years past. When this wind begins to blow, it drives the miasma arising from the lagoons south-east of Honolulu back upon the land, infesting the town with its unpleasant odor. The natives call it the " sick wind." Much of the weather at all seasons is, however, delightful ; the sky cloudless, the atmosphere clear and bracing. Nothing can exceed the soft brilliancy of the moonlight nights. Thunder-storms are rare, and light in their nature. No hurricanes have been known. ^ The general temperature of the islands approaches near the point regarded by physiologists as most conducive to health and longevity. Mr. Ellis gives the following tabular view of a meteorological journal kept by the missionaries from August, 1821, to July, 1822, — probably at Honolulu; the thermometer being noted at 8 A. M., $ P. M., and 8 P. M.^

^ Jarvis's History of the Hawaiian Islands, p. 13. ^ Journal, p. 7.

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