The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World (part 3 of 3)

The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World (part 3 of 3)

“ markets of the Hebrews; of the Greeks, 128

“ of the Romans, 129

Cattle, feeding of, 128

Cauliflowers unknown in England before Charles II., 52

Caviar, how prepared; of two sorts, 217

Cayenne coffee, 310

Cecilian cherry, 103

Celer, the price he gave for a red mullet, 213

Cellars of the ancients, 326

Celtiberia, swarming with rabbits, 189

Cereals, 19, 22

“ name of a feast; when discovered, 22

Ceres, the goddess of agriculture, 9, 13

“ a queen of Sicily, 24

“ gave the fig tree to Phytalus, 113

“ killed the first pig, 124

“ was presented with milk, 169

Cerevisia, beer, 300

Chafing-dishes, 262

Chailly, bread of, 39

Chairs used by the Greeks, 318

Chalices of the Greeks, 372

“ of amber, 321

Champagne wine, 33

Champignon sausages, 390

Charcutier, pork butcher, 132

Charlemagne’s kitchen-garden, 51

“ silver tables, 370

Charles VI. of France; his wedding banquet, 259

“ poisoned by mushrooms, 282

Charles IX. of France; his edict in favour of agriculture, 18

“ an admirer of turkeys, 185

Charles X. of France; his coronation banquet, 408

Cheese, 168

“ mentioned by Aristotle, 171

“ invented by Aristœus; known to the Hebrews; a military aliment; various sorts; given to the Greek wrestlers, 173

“ preserved in brine; Tromelian; à la Bithynienne, 174

Cherips, invented a new dish, 280

Cherry tree, cultivated by Mithridates; introduced by Lucullus, 102

“ propagated in Italy, 103

Cherries praised, 102

“ when served; various kinds;

“ cherry wine, 103

Chervil, how prepared, 84

Chestnuts, preparation of; oil extracted, 121

“ kept green all the year, 122

Chestnut tree, its native place, 121

Chickens, sacred, 156

Chickens, hatched in ovens; à la Cœlienne; à la Frontonienne, 157

Chicory, mixed with coffee, 311

Chimneys known to the ancients, 261

“ unknown to the Hebrews, 365

Chinese, their respect for agriculture, 15

Chios wine, 328, 330

Chiron, a pupil of Diana, 179

Chocolat de santé, 313

Chocolate, 312

“ used by the Mexicans, 313

“ a favourite food in Spain; its properties; when introduced into France, 314

Christmas bread, 40

Christmas feasts under Richard II., 351

Chrodegand, Bishop of Metz, 24

Cicero’s valuable tables, 369

Cider maker, 304

Cinara metamorphosed into an artichoke, 70

Cinnamon, its mysterious growing, 275

“ its scarcity; from China; offered as a present, 276

Cisalpine preserve, 145

City of London, its ancient gastronomic profusion, 351

Civilis panis, a kind of bread, 38

Clarence’s wedding repast (Duke of), 351

Clarey, an English drink, 338

Claudius, his guests, 257

“ poisoned by mushrooms, 282

“ his voracity, 340

Clement VII. poisoned by mushrooms, 282

Clerks’ wine, 337

Clerks’ feeding in the 16th century, 348

Cloths, dimensions of table; cutting away the table cloth, 374

Cloves, 276

Clovis, his politeness, 384

Club of Roman epicures, 243

Cock, consecrated to Mars; cock-fight in Greece; in Italy, 153

“ white, proclaimed the hours, 154

Cocoa-nut, 312

Cod-fishing; weight; fecundity, 231, 232

“ how dressed, 231

Cœlia, beer, 200

Cœna, supper, of various descriptions, 356, 357

Cœnaculum, dining-room, 363

Cœur, introduced the turkey (Jacques), 165

Coffee, of various kinds; its introduction, 310

“ when mentioned; its properties, 311

Coffee when drunk in Italy; in London; in Paris; in Sweden; a slow poison; with milk, 312

Collation, 342, 344

“ of the Romans, 343

“ of Lucullus, 348

Colum nivarium, snow cullender, 296, 327

“ vinarium, wine strainer, 331

Colymbades, a kind of olives, 98

Comissatio, a sort of “wake”, 345

Comus, his portrait, 355

Conflagration of Rome, 396

Conger-eel, bestowing immortality; of a considerable size, 226

“ culinary preparation, 226

Connétable, a celebrated orange tree, 112

Conon’s banquet, 355

Conviva, guest, 381

Cookery, ancient, 266

“ exposed to unjust reproaches, 251

Cooks, 251

“ Greek, 126

“ from Sicily, 256, 344

“ erratic, 265

“ how rewarded, 256

“ in the middle ages, 259

“ of Louis XIV., 215, 256

“ his qualities, 252

Coriander used to preserve meat, 47

Corinth, its quinces, 106

Cormorant, 193

Corn, its aboriginal country, 22

“ various kinds, 19

“ best; Roman law, 21

“ cutting, 14

“ grinding, 23, 25

“ its preservation, 15

Cornelian law, 347

Corporation of butchers, 130

Cos, its poultry, 154

“ wine, 328

Cossi, large worms, 265

Couches for the repasts, 372

“ of some emperors, 373

“ in the middle ages, 374

Counts of Anjou, introduced the plum tree, 105

Courses, 362

“ their number, 345, 390, 391

Cow, worshipped by Brahmin women, 145

“ milk; cheese, 173

Condiments, 272

Crab, its seasoning; sausages; stuffed, 248

Cranaus mixed water with wine, 323

Crane, 193

Crater, a cup, 391

Crawfish, 247

Crayfish, seasoning; from Alexandria; how preserved, 248

Crédences, dressers, 365

Cross-bun, 290

Crow, 193, 207

Crowns of thrushes, 198

“ for the guests, 391

Crucifixion, the punishment of slaves, 208

Cruet, 264

Crystal, malleable, 218

Crystal Palace, the, 402

Cubicularii, valets, 377

Cucumber, plentiful in Egypt; from Antioch; marvellous properties, 72

“ protects all kinds of seeds; preparation; preservation, 73

Cummin, 91

Cups, 263, 316

“ in the Homeric ages, 317

“ variety of shapes, 318, 321

“ of praise, 369

“ modern, 407

“ bearer, 378

Curlew, 207

Curmi, beer, 299

Cuttle-fish, 234

Cuvier, on the Pentateuch, 9

Cybele, her repugnance to garlic, 81

“ patroness of the pine, 95

Cythnus, renowned for cheese, 174

Dalmatia, its brine, 269

Damascus plum trees, 105

Dampier, his opinion of the phenicopter, 201

Daphne, its thrushes, 197

Dapiferi, servants, 377

Darioles, a kind of pastry, 292

Dates, from Judea; how preserved; various preparations; honey from the dates, 101

Dauphin of France, his style of living in the 14th century, 348

Death of Vatel, 215

Decapolis, its olives, 98

Décimer, or Décimheure, dinner, 349

Decree of Apronianus, 130

Deer, 184

“ à la Marcellus, 185

Defrutum, boiled wine, 326

Denarius, inclosed within a truffle (Roman), 279

Dessert, 394

Diamond, a fish, 237

Diana, taught Chiron, 179

Dies epulatæ, festivals, 290

Digestive garum, 272

“ salts, 269

Dill, its properties, 88

Dining-room, its decoration, 363

“ of Nero, 364

Dinner, 342, 344, 349

“ served to T. Quintus, 136

“ of the Jews, 342

Diogenes, his earthen vase, 327

Diomus kills an ox, 125

Diphilus fond of cherries, 102

Diploma, double vase, 262

Dishes of the ancients, 261

“ thirty thousand, at a banquet, 352

Dispensator, steward, 376

Distribution of wheat, 21

“ of oil, 99

“ of pork-meat, 130

Dodine sauce, 258

Dog, a relishing dish, 150

“ nailed to a cross, 151

“ trained by Pollux, 179

“ names of hunting dogs; their qualities, 180

Dolia, wine vessels, 327

Dolphins, 215

Dolyres, a kind of bread, 33

Domingo Coffee (St.), 310

Domitian, his turbot, 224

Dorio, a wit, 225

“ an epicure, 226

Dormice, how prepared, 390

Doubliers, table-cloths, 375

Dove, an emblem of sweet virtues, 162

Dragon-weaver, 237

Dressers, in the middle ages, 365

Drinking, 383

“ in Roman banquets, 392

“ to the good genius, 396

“ cups, 316

“ horns, 318

Druids, their respect for the oak, 24

Drunkards among the ancients, 316

Drusus fond of brocoli, 69

“ favourite starling, 200

“ daughter, and the sea-eels, 214

Duck, an antidote; its flesh; sacrificed to Neptune; from Bœotia; served on good tables, 158

“ parts offered; brains à l’Epicurienne; seasoning, 159

Dulce wine, 330

Dumplings of Athens, 85

Dutertre, his opinion of the phenicopter, 201

Eagles, distribution of, 412

Easter eggs, 178

Eaters of renown, 340

Eau-bénite sauce, 258

Echansons, 378

Echaudé bread, 39

Eclectic appetite, 255

Eden, garden of, 9

Edgar, a destroyer of wolves (King), 181

Ediles of Rome, 355

Edward the Confessor, fond of hunting, 181

“ his sumptuary laws, 350

Eel, worshipped in Egypt; esteemed by the Greeks; by the Sybarites; despised by the Romans; noticed by Apicius; how prepared; sacrificed to the Gods; how served; its enemies; served at Rockingham’s banquet, 227

“ its fabulous length, 213, 228

Eel-pout, its liver, 229

“ its reputation, 213

Eggs, 168

“ venerated by some philosophers, 175

“ primitive; when served; cooked without fire; seen in dreams; symbol of the universe; carried with pomp, 176

“ soft boiled; à la Romaine; à l’Epænète; à l’Athénienne; à la Macédonienne; aux Roses, 177

“ pudding; red, 178

“ cooked on the spit, 258

“ Easter, 178

Egypt, the granary of the empire, 12

“ supplied the best vinegar, 278

Egyptians abhorred the pig, 134

“ esteemed the ox, 142

“ their veneration for the kid, 148

“ fond of fish, 211

“ their respect for the sea-eel, 222

“ for water, 293

“ consumed a great deal of bread, 340

“ wreaths, 394

Elephant, its flesh; its feet; trunk, 191

“ dancing elephants; à la Troyenne, 192

Elizabeth, fond of geese (Queen), 159

Emphractum, an Apician dish, 242

Endive, differently appreciated; curative qualities, 75

“ how prepared, 76

Entrails of the scarus, 224

“ of the tunny-fish, 225

Entremets, 383, 385

Epicurean dish in the olden times, 351

Epicurus, 400

Epimeletes, a Greek magistrate, 129

Erichthonius, king of Athens, 125

Eschalots, by whom discovered, 82

Escharites, a kind of bread, 33

Etiquette in the 16th century, 353

Eumenes encouraged the rearing of pigs (King), 136

Exeter banquet, 410

Exhibition of 1851, 16, 402

Extravagance Culinaire, 406

Falcon, 194

Falernian wine, 329

Fannius, the consul, 381

Fare, bills of, 404, 405, 409

Fattening of poultry, 154

“ of geese, 161

“ of turkeys, 165

Feast in honour of Ceres, 356

Feathered game, 193

Feathers thrown before the door, 358

Fécule, flour, 22

Feeding of cattle, 128

“ of clerks in the 16th century, 348

Fennel used to restore the sight, 88

Festival of St. Ulric, 215

Fête of the distribution of eagles, 412

Fig-pecker, how prepared, 201

Fig-tree dear to Bacchus, 95

“ a tree of Eden, 112

“ planted at Athens, 113

“ varieties; brought war on Attica, 114

Figs, abounded in Canaan, 112

“ exportation interdicted; an article of trade in Jerusalem; valued by the Hebrews; food of the athletæ; favourite food of Plato; of Attica; served to Persian kings, 113

“ noticed by Cato; planted in the forum; food for entire armies, 114

“ how served, 115

Filbert, 120

File-fish, 237

Fillet of pork à la Béotienne, 139

Fish permitted to the Jews, 210

“ served to Queen Gatis; despised by the heroes of Homer, 211

“ Athenian law on, 212

“ disliked by the Britons, 214

Fish, of two hundred cubits, 213

“ mania, 214

“ prepared in the shape of game; its consumption in former times; its vogue under Louis XIV., 215

“ ponds, 220

“ hooks, 249

“ preservation of; piscinæ on the roofs of houses, 250

Fishermen, 249

Fishing, 249

Fishmongers of Athens, 212

“ supplying royal tables, 215

Flabellarii, servants, 377

Flamingo’s tongue, 200

“ little known in Europe, 201

Flesh most in fashion in the age of Homer, 125

Flocks of the patriarchs, 127

“ of the eastern nations, 146

Flounder, 237

Flour, its manipulation, 30

Flowers used by the guests, 383

“ spread over the table, 389

Focarii, stokers, 378

Fontainebleau, its orange tree, 112

Fontenelle, his answer to Madame Helvétius, 381

Food, primitive, 345

“ animal, 123

Forks, 263

Fornax, a goddess, 34

Forum pistrinum, the bread market, 37

Fountains of the ancients, 294

“ in dining-rooms, 366

“ spouting various liquors, 367, 385

Fowls flavoured at will, 161

Fox, 190

Francis I., how cured, 169

Francis of Paulo introduces a pear (St.), 107

Fraternity of free-livers, 270

French wine, its price in England, 338

Fricatores, servants, 387

Fritters, 285

Frogs had no repute among the ancients; in fashion in Paris; eaten in Germany; disdained in England, 249

Fruits, the primitive food; Hebrew legislation; how eaten, 95

“ how preserved, 96

“ when served, 96, 97

Fruit-trees on the house tops, 96

Frumenta, 41

Funereal banquet, 357

Furfuraceus panis, a sort of bread, 38

Furrows, their length, 18

Gala of the pagan pontiffs, 356

Galactophagists, drinkers of milk, 168

Galba’s breakfast, 257

“ gastronomic profusion, 341

Galen, his opinion of the pear, 107

Game, feathered, 193

“ its preservation, 194

“ fabulous expenses for, 207

“ abundant in Ithaca, 339

“ permitted to the Hebrews, 193

Gardening in Great Britain, 17

“ known at an early period, 59

Gardens, of Babylon; of Alcinous; Roman, 59

Garlic, a god in Egypt; a military food; given to cocks; used by countrymen; proscribed by a King of Castile, 81

“ its virtues; how to render it milder, 82

Garoe, a curious tree, 298

Garos, a shrimp, 270

Garum, 213, 269

“ sociorum; 236, 270

“ obtained from anchovies, 240

“ procured from Spain, 243

“ its price; from shrimps; from mackerel; of the allies; from tunny-fish; from the red mullet, 270

“ from saxatile fish; its preparation; used as a seasoning; from various animals, 271

“ its modifications; digestive, 272

“ used in Turkey, 273

Garus, a shrimp, 270

Gastronomy, where it has flourished, 126

“ the offspring of appetite and sensuality, 210

“ promotes friendship, 402

Gatis, Queen of Syria, 211

Gaul, renowned for hams, 137

Gauls, enticed by the figs of Italy, 114

Geese, saved the Capitol, 151

“ appreciated by the ancients; their prudence; honoured by the Britons, 159

“ kept in the Capitol; a symbol of safety; fattening, 160, 161

Gelatine sauce, 258

Gellia, anecdote of, 189

George IV., his coronation banquet, 408

Geta’s banquet, 126

“ alphabetical dishes, 257

Getes, drinkers of milk, 168

Gills of mullets, 219

Ginger, 92

“ bread, 40

“ known to the ancients, 285

Gladiators, fighting to amuse the guests, 396

Globi, a kind of pastry, 288

Gloucestershire, renowned for its wines, 336

Goat, killed by Bacchus, 124

Gold-fish, how dressed; gave its name to Sergius, 230

Golden age, dietetic of the, 124

“ apples, 109

Gods of the sea, 294

Gonesse, bread of, 39

Goose’s liver, 160, 161

Goose à la Gauloise; served on Michaelmas day, 161

Gorgor introduces honey into Spain, 273

Goslings, in repute among the Greeks, 159

“ how fattened, 160

Gourd, brought from India; how prepared and preserved; from Antioch, 66

Grain, spread on the furrows, 14

Grains, 46

Granada, its olives, 98

Granatum, pomegranate, 122

“ wine, 331

Granea, how prepared, 20

Grapes, offered to Bacchus, 95

“ served on the Roman tables, 325

“ preserved, 325

Grass, a primitive seat, 368

Grasshoppers, 265, 390

Greek-nut, 117

Greeks, fond of agriculture, 11

“ their cattle-markets, 128

“ eat dogs, 151

“ laid the foundation of Ichthyophagy, 211

Grinding of corn, 23

Grinding-stones, by whom invented, 24, 25

“ used by ancient nations, 25

Grindstones, of porous lava, 28

Gruel, of the Romans, 33, 34

Gudgeon, 238

“ when served; seasoning, 239

Guests, 368

“ their places, 372

“ their number, 381

Guinea hen, native place; à la Numide, 163

“ sacrificed to Caligula, 165

Guiseau, a kind of eel, 228

Haddock, served with pomp, 236

Halec, a kind of brine, 240

Hall, atrium, 376

Hall-keeper, atriensis, 376

Halmades, a kind of olives, 98

Hams, when served, 137

Hand-mills, 25

Hare, how prepared; forbidden to the Jews; abounded in Greece, 188

Hare’s down used for couches, 373

Haricots, introduced by Alexander, 55

“ when served, 56

Harold, the British Nimrod (King), 182

Hazel-nut, 120

Healths, how drank, 383, 393, 394

Hebrews, their cattle-markets, 128

“ their use of wine, 323

Hedgehog, 190

Heliogabalus, fond of pheasants, 195

“ thrushes and ostrichs’s brains, 199, 204

“ was served with gills of mullets, 219

“ gorged the pheasants with an expensive delicacy, 221

“ his couches, 373

“ his childish espiégleries, 373

“ biography, 400

Hempseed, 48

Hen of Numidia, 163

Henry I. of England, his death, 222

Hens, proscribed by C. Fannius, 154

“ aviaries; inauspicious cackling; feeding, 155, 156

“ worshipped, 175

“ of Adria; eggs, 177

Hercules, the patron of butchers, 129

“ a powerful hunter, 179

“ resuscitated by a quail, 196

Heroes of Homer, fond of animal food, 126

“ their culinary talents, 253

Heron, 193, 194

Herring, unknown to the ancients; caught on the coast of Scotland; sold by the Dutch, 239

“ how preserved, 240

Hesperides apples, 109

Hippocrates, prejudiced against beans, 53

Hippolochus, a defender of quails, 197

Hirpinus’s park, 181

“ fish-ponds, 243

Hirtius, celebrated for his fish-ponds, 220

“ his sea-eels, 221

Hirundo esculenta, sea-swallow, 205

Hog à la Troyenne, 136

Homer, his heroes, 126

“ his poem in favour of thrushes, 197

Honey, discovered by Aristæus; its qualities; introduced into Spain; recommended by Pythagoras; produced by the air; by flowers, 273

“ by reeds; from Attica; when served; seasoning, 374

“ obtained from dates, 101

Honeyed wine, 131

Hôpital, prohibits the sale of pies (Chancelier de l’), 290

Horace, fond of parsley, 83

“ peacocks, 176

Hordeum, barley, 20

Horns, used for cups, 318

Hors-d’œuvre, 381

Horse-radish despised; various sorts; preparation of the seed, 80

“ spoils the teeth, 81

“ its properties, 80, 81

Horses, trained by Castor, 179

Hortensius, the first who served a peacock, 167

“ his park, 181

“ wept over the death of a fish, 214

Hospitality, described by Apollodorus, 355

“ of the English aristocracy, 384

Hot-houses, known to the ancients, 94

“ wine, 393

Hunting, its antiquity, 179

“ of the ancients, 180

“ permitted by the Roman law; in England, 181, 182

Hydromel, 304

Hydromelon, 305

Hydrorosatum, 305

Hyperbius, son of Mars, 124

Hypotrimma, a stomachic condiment, 272

Hyssop, its virtues, 88, 89

“ wine, 334

Ibrahim Pacha, entertained by the Reform Club, 408

Ice, how obtained; from the Alps; ice-houses, 295

Iced beverages, 296

Ichthyophagy, 210

“ of the Greeks; of the Romans, 208

Ichthyophilists, 212

Imperial sausages, 141

Incrustations, for tables, 368

Indolent appetite, 255

Innkeepers, 336

Intoxication, not unfashionable with the ancients, 317

“ in the middle ages, 337

“ punished in France, 337, 338

Invitation to dinner, 387

Irrigation of gardens, 59

Israelites, fed on quails, 196

“ their public repasts, 346

Ivory tables, 394

James I. and lamb’s fleece, 182

Janus planted the vine in Italy, 323

Jews, devoted to agriculture, 10

“ abstained from the pig, 134

“ “ hare, 188

Judea, its fertility, 12

“ produced excellent dates, 101

Jugglers, 384, 395

Jupiter, his stratagem against the Gauls, 33

“ suckled by a sow, 134

Jus Nigrum, black sauce, of Lacedæmon, 252

Keneffes, German, 258

Kervynge, the Booke of, 370

Kid, venerated by the Egyptians; a favourite dish with the Hebrews; the Greeks; of Attica, 148

“ Sicily; Tivoli; various preparations, 149

King of the banquet, 383

Kirschen-wasser, 103

Kitchen, ancient remains, 259

“ description, 260

“ in the middle ages, 353

Kitchen-garden, 59

Knives, 264

Ladies, fond of oysters (Roman), 244

“ forbidden to drink wine, 332

Lady of the lamb, 148

Lamb, offered in sacrifice; Paschal, 146

“ a luxury; in repute among the ancients; various preparations, 147

Lamprey, dried up by the sun; stops a vessel; its high price, 222

“ killed in Candian wine; how prepared, 223

“ compared to quails, 224

Lares, household gods, 390

Lark, 207

Latona, presented with leeks, 77

Leaven, known to the Jews, 31

“ how used by the Greeks, 33

“ different kinds, 36

Lecticarii, servants, 378

Leek, an Egyptian divinity; cured numerous diseases; how prepared; how to make them acquire an extraordinary size; they are offered to Latona, 77

Legislation, concerning the Roman slaves, 209

Lemon tree, its origin, 109

“ received from Persia, 110

“ used for tables and beds, 110, 368

Lemons, considered as a counter-poison; how preserved; lemon-peel, a digestive, 110

Lentils, etymology; known to the Hebrews; appreciated by the Egyptians; by the Greeks; not in high repute with the Romans; supposed to soften the temper, 57

“ an ill-omened food; a funereal vegetable, 58

Lesbos wine, 328

Lettuce, eaten by the Hebrews; its narcotic virtue; irrigated with wine; served with eggs, 74

“ how prepared, 75

Le Vaillant, his opinion of the elephant’s feet and trunk, 191

Libations, 390

Libum, a sort of cake, 287

Liburnian oil, 100

Licinian law respecting cattle, 127

“ concerning the Roman diet, 51

Licinius Muræna, 220

Lighting of the ancients, 366

Linseed, 48

Liqueur wine, 332, 334

List of the repast, 264

Liver of the red mullet, 213

Livia and the sorceress, 176

“ fond of good wine, 332

Livio contrived to fatten peacocks, 167

Loach, how dressed in Italy, 238

Loaves, Roman, 37

Lobster, a favourite dish, 247

“ how prepared, 248

Loligo, how served, 237

Louis XI imprisons blackbirds, 199

“ XIV., his public repasts, 349

“ his dinners, 350

“ suppers, 350

Lucanian sausages, 138, 140

Lucrinus, a lake renowned for its fish, 243

Lucullian ham, 139

Lucullus, introduced the cherry tree, 102

“ his park, 181

“ fed thrushes, 199

“ brought up the sea to his gardens, 213

“ his ambigu to Cicero and Pompey, 257, 348

Lupin, used for cattle, 47

“ etymology, 48

Lutatian cherry, 103

Luxury of the Romans, 356

Lycurgus commanded little children to fast, 252

“ destroyed the vines of Lacedæmon, 323

Lysimachus, his tax on salt, 267

Macédoine Germanique of milk, 170

Macedonia, its giant pigs, 136

“ of chickens, 157

Macedonian pork, 138

Mackerel, 235

“ its dangerous appetite; supplied a sort of garum, 236, 270

“ appreciated by the ancients, 236

“ etymology, 235

“ furnished a valuable brine, 213

Madidus panis, a sort of cosmetic, 38

Mecænas introduced the flesh of the ass, 150

Magiric science, its beginnings, 123

Mahomedans abstain from the pig, 134

Majordomo, 260

Mallows, their properties; in high renown; among the ancient acetaria; how prepared; served as a salad, 64

Mamertinum wine, 329

Manlius, his trick with the Gauls, 33

Manure, Greek and Roman, 14

“ obtained from thrushes, 198

Maple, used for tables, 368

Maragnon cocoa, 313

Mares’ milk cheese, 173

Marionettes with the ancients, 395

Marjoram wine (wild), 333

Markets, 128

Market-bell, 212

Marl, used as manure, 14

Martinique coffee, 310

Mary Stuart’s supper, 383

Mauviette, a species of lark, 207

Meals, their number, 342

Meat, preserved without salt, 131

“ sold by mication, 129

“ given by guests to their servants, 394

Median apples, 109

Mediastini, servants, 387

Megalartus, taught to knead flour, 32

Meilleraye, his bill for vinegar (Duke de La), 278

Meleager, mourned by turkeys, 164

Meleagrides, turkeys, 164

Melitates, a sort of pastry, 33, 285

Mellona, the protectress of bees, 273

Melon, 77

“ from Asia; perfumed by the Greeks; appreciated in Rome; how to render it milder; its Hygienic qualities; how prepared; brought from Italy, 78

Mercury was presented with milk, 169

Merenda, 343

Mication, used for the sale of meat, 129

Michaelmas day, goose served at dinner, 161

Michaux, a botanist, 19

“ brought peas into repute, 56

Miletus, the inventor of grinding-stones, 25

Milk, 168

“ a primitive food, 123

“ an emblem of fertility; the principal food of several nations, 168

“ offered to Ceres; to Mercury; its qualities, 169

“ Macédoine Germanique of, 170

“ mixed with coffee, 312

Millers, their festival (Roman), 26

Millet, 43

“ used for making cakes, 20

Millium, millet, 20

Mills introduced to Rome, 25

“ of the ancients; hydraulic mills; mentioned by Vitruvius, 27

“ where invented; constructed by Belisarius; description; known in England, 28

“ wind-mills, 29

Milo, a notorious eater, 143, 339

Minerva, the patroness of the olive tree, 95

“ produced the olive tree, 97

Minos, his sumptuary laws, 346

Mint, formerly a young girl; prevented milk from curdling, 90

“ wine, 333

Minturnæ, the retreat of Apicius, 247

Mirabelle plums, 105

Misor taught the art of seasoning, 267

Mithœcus, a magiric writer, 254

Mithridates cultivated the cherry tree, 102

“ his antidote, 119

“ his opinion of the duck, 158

Mocha coffee, 310

Mola, a goddess, 25, 26

Monsieur, plums of, 105

Morel, a sort of mushroom, 282

Moretaria, a stomachic condiment, 272

Mortars, used to pound the grain, 24, 25

Mosaic law, concerning cattle, 127

Moses, promoted agriculture, 11, 322

Mostecham sauce, 258

Mountebanks enlivening the banquets, 344

Moût sauce, 258

Mugil, how dressed, 235

Mulberry tree, its wisdom; a native of Canaan; its juice and wine, 116

Mullet, red, 218

“ killed on the table, 213, 218

“ in brine, 213

“ anecdote of Philoxenus, 218

“ how cooked; its price, 218

“ its liver and head; weight, 219

Mulsum wine, cure for head-ache, 331

Muræna, sea-eel, 208

“ dear to Hortensius, 214

Murrhine vases, 319

Muria, brine; dura; a convivial punishment, 269

Muses, protected the palm-tree, 95, 100

Mushrooms, the dish of the gods; their poisonous effects; relished by the ancients, 282

“ how they are grown, 283

Musicians, symphoniaci, 389

Mussels, praised by the ancients, served to the gods; how seasoned, 245

Mustaceum of the Romans, 286

Mustard, 46

“ etymology, 46, 47

“ a remedy against venomous serpents, 46

Myrrhinum wine, 331

Myrtites wine, 305

Myrtle wine, 334

Napkins used by the ancients, 375

Naples, its good cheer, 126

Napoleon I., his coronation banquet, 407

Nero’s iced water, 305

“ dining-room, 363

“ he sets fire to Rome, 369

“ biographical note, 399

Nestor’s cup, 317

Nets, 249

New year eggs, 178

Nicolas of Damascus, his dates, 101

Nicomachus and his estate, 177

Nicomedes and his cook, 44, 45

Noisettes, hazel nuts, 120

Nomenculatores, servants, 377

Northumberland (Duke of), his munificence, 408

Nougat of the ancients, 285

Numidian chicken, 157

Nut-tree, 120

“ nuts of Jupiter; Persian, 118

“ of Heraclea, 120

Oak, supplied a primitive food, 24

Oatmeal, relished by the ancients, 43

Oats, 42

“ appreciated by the Germans, 20

“ oat soup; oat cream, 42

Obsonator, servant, 260, 377

Œnanthinum wine, 335

Œnogarum, 73

Officers appointed to watch over the water, 294

Oil, abounded in the East; used by the Patriarchs, 97

“ the best; its price in Rome, 98

“ served to Julius Cæsar; used at the baths; distribution of oil, 99

“ Liburnian oil, 100

“ of almonds, 117

“ of chestnuts, 121

Oil-mills, invented by Aristæus, 97

Olive-tree, 96

“ discovered by Minerva; its pre-eminence; used for various emblems, 97

“ cultivated by the Jews; in Greece, 98

Olives, preserved by the Hebrews; of Andalusia; of Granada; cultivation, 98

“ when served, 99

Olla, a Spanish dish, 258

Olympian pig’s liver, 140

Omphacomeli, a beverage, 305

Onions, brought into Greece; how prepared; with honey, 76

Orach, its pernicious properties, 87

Orange-tree, its native place; introduced by the Portuguese; unknown to the Romans, 111

“ stuck with cloves, 112

Orchius, the Tribune, 381

Organs of the Romans, 389

Orpheus and the primitive egg, 176

Ortolans, sent to Rome, 203

Oryza, rice, 20

Osiris, the inventor of agriculture, 9

“ introduced the plough into Egypt, 12

Ostiarius, porter, 376

Ostrich, fatted and salted, 203

“ served on some tables; dish of ostrich’s brains; eggs; a friandise, 204

Otranto, the palm tree of, 100

Ovens, used by the Jews, 31

“ near the hand-mills, 33

“ first built in Rome, 34

“ portable, 35

Ox, sacrificed by Prometheus, 124

“ offered to Jupiter; devouring a sacred cake, 125

“ roasted whole, 142, 410

“ an emblem of agriculture; its image on coins; offered to pugilists, 142

“ its flesh permitted to the Hebrews; praised by Hippocrates; price of, 143

“ highly valued by the Romans, 145

“ care taken of; tracing a furrow, 14

“ sacrificed to Bubona, 128

Oxycrat, a military drink, 304

Oxymel, 304

Oxyporon, a seasoning, 274

Oysters, uncommon in ancient times; served to the pagan pontiffs; their price, 242

“ preserved fat and alive; sent to Trajan; when served in Greece; often served raw; how fattened, 343

“ how dressed; from the Atlantic ocean; from Bordeaux; how preserved; pickled; forgotten for a long period, 244

Palatine broil, 147

Pales, 128

Palestine, renowned for its wines, 322

Palladius cultivated the lemon tree, 110

Palm-tree, consecrated to the Muses, 95, 100

“ of Otranto, 100

“ its usefulness, 101

“ supplied the schecar, 100

Pan, 31

Pandarus, exempt from indigestions, 251

Panic-grass, 43

“ a favourite dish, 20

Panis, bread; etymology, 31, 32

Parasites, 382, 388

“ their place in banquets, 380

Parks, 180

Parrot-fish, 223

Parsley given as a prize, 82

“ its origin; culinary preparation; a symbol of mourning, 83

Parsley, the food of chargers; a favourite plant with Horace; sung by Anacreon, 83

“ seed wine, 333

Parthian chicken, 157

Partridges, 195

“ their price; the best parts; their fights, 196

“ feathers used for couches, 373

“ eggs, 177

Paschal lamb, 146

Passum wine, 330

Pastry of the Jews; among the Egyptians; with the Greeks and Romans, 284

“ patronised by eminent persons, 290

“ its progress, 291

“ cooks, 285, 290

Patinæ, dishes, 263

Peach-tree, supposed to be poisonous; price of peaches; how preserved, 104

Peacocks, 166

“ admired by Alexander the Great; kept in aviaries; their price; exhibited in Greece; appreciated in Rome, 166

“ ridiculous consumption; fattened by Livio; of Samos; reared by Tiberius, 167

“ served as if alive, 167

“ sacrificed to Caligula, 165

“ eggs, 177, 390

“ utility of their feathers, 340

“ used by Roman polyphagists, 244

“ their tails designed on tables, 369

Pear-tree, its native place; qualities of pears, 107

Peas, 56

“ green, little appreciated; grey, relished by the ancients; sold at the Circus, 56

“ a kind of bribe, 57

Pelasgus patronised the beech tree, 23

Pelorus celebrated for its oysters (Cape), 244

Peniculi, washers, 379

Pennyroyal used as a digestive, 90

“ wine, 333

Pentapharmacum of the Emperor Verus, 257

Pentateuch of Moses, 10

Pepper used by the ancients, 277

Perch, from the Rhine; given to the sick; fed in the Moselle; relished by the Romans; how dressed, 232

Perdix rustica, the wood-cock, 207

Perfumes, used by the guests, 383

Persians, fond of water-cresses, 84

“ their veneration for water, 293

“ predilection of their kings for figs, 113

Persiller, to give pungency to cheese, 174

Pertinax, fond of pheasants, 195

Pestles, used for bruising wheat, 25

Petronius’s eggs, 201

Pharsalians, their mighty appetite, 340

Pheasants, relished by Severus, 160

“ eggs, 177

“ discovered by the Argonauts; kept in aviaries; adorned the triumph of Ptolemy; served in sumptuous repasts, 194

“ scarce in Italy; Vitellius relished their brains; sacrificed to Caligula; recommended to weak stomachs; sold frozen, 195

“ sausages, 390

Phenicopter, flamingo, 200

Philip of Macedon, fond of apples, 108

Philip-le-Bel’s regulations for fast-days, 214

Philoxenus, died of indigestion, 212

“ a witty epicure, 218

“ devoted to degustation, 254

Phœnicians, abstained from pork, 134

“ venerated the ox, 142

Phrygians, their respect for the ox, 142

Phytalus, received a fig-tree from Ceres, 113

Picenum cakes, 288

Pickled pork, 138

Pickles, relished by the ancients, 278

Pic-nics, known to the ancients, 344

Pie, invented by the Emperor Verus, 286

Pig, killed by Ceres, 124

“ market at Rome, 129

“ portrait of the; its qualities, 133

“ offered to Venus; a sign of peace; an emblem of fecundity; abhorred by the Egyptians; forbidden to the Jews; to the Mahomedans, 134

“ of Macedonia, 136

“ stuffed with game, 137

“ forbidden to ramble; of the Abbey St. Antoine, 141

“ suckling, 137

“ the discoverer of truffles, 279

Pigeons, how they were caught, 162

“ a dainty dish; recommended to the sick; their price; how prepared, 163

Pigeon-houses, 162

Pike, little esteemed by ancient epicures; its multiplication; preparation; longevity, 228

Pilau, 258

Pilchard, how stuffed by the Romans, 238

Pine, consecrated to Cybele, 95

Pip-fruit, 106

Pique-assiette, parasite, 382

Piquette, weak wine of the ancients, 326

Pistachio-tree, a native of India; brought to Rome by Vitellius, 120

“ nuts, recommended by Avicenna, 121

Pistores, corn grinders, 25

Pithyllus, his protector of the tongue, 255

Place of honour in banquets, 373

Placites, a kind of bread, 33

Plaice, 237

Plants, used in seasoning, 86

Plato was fond of figs, 113

Plautus worked at the mill, 27

Plough introduced into Egypt; the Egyptian plough, 12

“ the primitive, 13

“ its simplicity; ancient; Greek; Anglo-Norman; Gallic, 14

Plum tree; plums; how preserved; of Reine Claude; of Mirabelle; of Monsieur, 105

Plutarch, his vegetarian principles, 126

Pochet, her recipe for tea (Madame), 308

Poisonous peaches, 104

Poitevine sauce, 258

Poivre, his description of birds’ nests, 205

Poles, fond of cucumbers, 73

Politeness of King Clovis, 384

Pollio, his answer to Augustus, 99

Pollio’s (Vedius) atrocious cruelty, 221

“ how he chastised his slaves, 214

Pollux trained hunting dogs, 179

Polypus, its seasoning, 249

Pomegranate, fatal to Proserpine; first cultivated in the east; brought into Italy; how preserved; different species, 122

Pomona, 95

Pompey and the thrushes of Lucullus, 199

Pompion, treated without ceremony, 71

“ of Egypt; its qualities; how prepared, 72

Pontic nuts, 120

Pontiffs, their banquet (Pagan), 356

Poppæia used asses’ milk, 169

Poppy, its preparation, 86

Pork-meat distributed to the Romans, 130

“ abhorred by some nations, 134

“ recommended to wrestlers; its reputation, 135

“ disguised in various ways, 136

“ pickled, 138

Porpoises, 215

Porter, ostiarius, 376

Portugal orange, 112

Portughan, a name of the orange, 111

Portuguese, introduced the orange tree, 111

Pot-de-vin, a bribe, 337

Poularde à la Viminale, 156

Poultry, the best of aliments, 152

“ permitted to some religious order, 153

“ art of fattening, 161

Pounded bread, 40

Præcocia, apricots, 103

Præfectus annonæ, 36

Prægustator, 378

Prayers before meals, 344, 390

Prefect of Rome, 355

Prestigiators, 395

Priapus, a protector of fruit trees, 95

Priests of Mars, great epicures, 343

Probus restored the vine to Gaul, 322

Procillatores, servants, 377

Procurator, major-domo, 260

Præneste enriched by hazel nuts, 120

Profusion in the City of London (Ancient), 351

Prodigality of the Earl of Warwick, 351

Prometheus sacrificed an ox, 124

Proserpine, was too fond of pomegranates, 122

Provisions mentioned in the Scriptures, 354

“ price of, 358

Prytanea in Greece, 347

Ptisana, barley water, 42

“ a sorry liquid, 304

Pudding, Carthaginian, 43

“ hasty, 44

“ black, 138

Pullarius, his office, 156

Pultiphagists, 33

Punch given by Sir Edward Russell, 411

Purslaine mixed with salad, 68

“ its properties, 69

Pyanepsia, one of the festivals of Apollo, 53

Pygmalion, his severity, 125

Pythagoras, abstained from beans, 53

“ was a vegetarian, 126

“ recommended honey, 273

Quails, a sovereign remedy, 196

Quails, food of the Israelites; supposed to cause epilepsy; banished from the Roman tables, 196

“ fights, 197

Quenelles of pig’s liver and brains, 140

Quince tree, a native of Cydon, 106

Quinces, their beneficial qualities; preserved in honey, 106

Quince wine, 107

Rabbits taught mankind the art of fortification; overthrow Tarragona; defeated by the Roman troops, 189

“ of Macedonia; how prepared, 190

Radishes of Judea; price in Rome; supposed to produce cabbages; how preserved, 79

“ pickled, 390

Ragouts of the middle ages, 258

Raleigh, his account of the herring fishery (Sir Walter), 239

Rancidity of butter, how to attenuate it, 172

Raspberry, 115

Ratafia, 103

Rauwolf, the first to mention coffee, 311

Rearing of cattle, 127

Réaumur, his experiments to hatch chickens, 157

Red mullet, 218

Redstone’s funeral banquet (Sir John), 359

Reform Club, its splendid entertainments, 408

Reine Claude, plums of, 105

Remy’s silver table (St.), 370

René of Sicily introduced the plum-tree, 105

Repasts, 339

“ in common, 346

“ variety of repasts; of the Jews, 354

“ offered to Jupiter, 356

“ of Louis XIV, 349

Reservoirs on the house tops, 96

Rheumatism, cured by drinking ale, 301

Rhoites wine, 305

Rhombus, its seasoning, 235

Rice, 43

“ a nutritious grain, 20

River cray-fish, 248

Rivers, venerated by some nations, 293

Roast beef, the principal article of food in the Homeric ages, 339

Robert sauce, 258

Robigus, a god, 19

Robus, a variety of corn, 19

Rochelle wine, its price in England, 338

Rocket, how used by the ancients; its properties, 87

Rockingham, his banquet (Lord), 227

Roebuck, with spikenard; aux prunes; aux amandes de pin, 184

Roll bread, 40

Romans, fond of agriculture, 11, 13

“ eat dogs, 151

“ their manipulation of butter, 171

“ fond of fish, 212, 216

Rome its corruption; its fall, 401

Romulus, studied the advancement of agriculture, 13

“ was found under a fig-tree, 114

Rope dancers, 395

Roquefort cheese, 174, 175

Rosatum wine, 331

Rousseau, (J. J.) was not a practical vegetarian, 126

Rue, a counter poison; its properties, 90

“ wine, 333

Russell (Sir Edward), his memorable punch, 411

Rye, a detestable food, according to Pliny, 20

“ a substitute for coffee, 311

Sacred chickens, 156

Salad could not be procured for a queen, 51

“ in the middle ages, 75

Salangan, sea-swallow, 204

“ nests, 205

Salmasius, on truffles, 281

Salmon, when first mentioned; sung by Ausonius; from Aquitaine; abundant in Scotland, 233

Salonite cheese, 174

Salt, consecrated to the gods; from the asphaltite lake; used by the Jews; tax on salt, 267

“ superstitions concerning salt, 267

“ salt works in Italy; eaten with bread; four sorts, 268

Salt-meat, its preparation, 131

“ cellars, 389

Salts, digestive, 269

Samos, its oil, 98

Sandaligeruli, servants, 377

Sandals, 388

Sapa, cooked wine, 326

Sardinia, renowned for hams, 137

Saturn, the inventor of agriculture, 9

Saucepans of the ancients, 262

Saucers, 263

Sauces of various kinds, 257

Sauce manufacturers, 257

Saupiquet sauce, 258

Sausages of Lucania, 138

“ various, 140

Savillum pie, 286

Savory, 89

“ wine, 333

Scales of the ancients, 130

Scaliger, repugnance to water-cresses, 84

Scallop of Tarentum, 246

Scarus, a fish, 223

“ its renown, 213

“ celebrated for its anomalies, 224

Scate, its back appreciated by the Greeks, 233

“ despised by the Romans; its varieties according to Lacépède; its eggs a curious remedy, 233

Scissor, a carver, 377

Scoparii, sweepers, 378

Scythians, drinkers of milk, 168

“ their manipulation of butter, 171

Sea, peopled with gods, 294

“ crawfish, its culinary preparation, 247

“ eels, fed on the flesh of slaves, 208, 214

“ “ heard their master’s voice; ornamented with necklaces, 220

“ “ how fattened; where caught; how prepared; from the Tiber, 221

“ “ venerated by the Egyptians; of a considerable size, 222

“ hedgehog, relished by the ancients; how prepared, 245

“ swallow, 204

“ wolf, an exquisite fish; a child of the gods; eclipsed the sturgeon; where caught; relished by the Greeks, 223

Seals, 215

Seasoning, plants used in, 86

Seasonings, 266

“ with garum, 272

Seats, 388

“ used by the Hebrews, 372

Secale, rye, 20

Sechar, an exhilarating beverage, 100

Seeds, 46

Sejus seasoning, 161

Selech, his services to mankind, 267

Seneca, his declamations against luxury; his enormous wealth, 252

Sensualism of the ancients, 345

Sentinum wine, 328

Sepia, its black liquid; its conjugal affection; how it was dressed, 234

Sepia, an estimable dish, 234

Sergius, his fishponds, 243

Servants, 376

Sesame, how used, 86

“ cakes, 20

Severus, fond of geese; of pheasants, 160, 195

“ hares, 189

Sévigné, her opinion on coffee (Mde. de), 312

Shad, sold to the plebeians, 234

Shadows, a kind of parasites, 388

Sheep bread, 40

Shell, imitating precious woods, 369

“ fish, 241

“ “ its seasoning in Italy; how dressed by Apicius; from Lake Lucrinus; from Pelorus; how cooked; when served; relished by the ancients, 242

“ fruit, 117

Shepherds, ancient, 127

Shoes of the Romans, 388

Shrimps used for garum, 270

Sicilian cooks, 344

Sicily, renowned for cooks, 256

Sideboard, 264

Sieves, 265

Sigma, a horse-shoe shaped table, 369

Silatum, a Roman drink, 334

Siligineus panis, a kind of bread, 38

Siligo, a species of wheat, 19

Simnels, or wigs, 291

Simon’s speculation on frogs, 249

Sitarchi, magistrates for the allotment of corn, 21

Sitocome, an inspector of corn, 21

Sitologi, officers to superintend the purchase of corn, 21

Sitometræ, officers watching over the measurement of corn, 21

Sitonæ, inspectors of corn, 21

Sitophylaces, officers regulating the sale, 21

Skeleton, exhibited to the guests, 385, 393

Slavery in ancient times, 208

Slaves, sold by Cato; cruelties practised against slaves; punished by crucifixion; put to death to amuse a friend, 208

“ thrown to the sea-eels, 208, 214

“ more null than vile, 209

“ eating with their masters, 356

“ their stigmas, 376

“ lettered slaves, 376

Snails, a delicate hors-d’œvre, 265

“ how fattened, 326

Snipe, 207

Snow, preserved in cellars, 295

“ cullender, 226

Soles, 237

“ compared to partridges, 224

“ much sought after, 237

Solon, his sumptuary laws, 108, 347

Sorrel, how prepared, 69

Soterides, Nicomedes’ cook, 44

Sow, Jupiter’s first nurse, 134

Sow-thistle, given up to rabbits, 87

Sowing taught by Ceres, 24

Spain, celebrated for garum, 243

Spaniards, fond of acorns, 24

Spanish camomile, mixed with wine, 90

“ dancers, 395

Spectacles introduced in banquets, 383

Spelt, a species of wheat, 19

Spinach, little known to the ancients, 63

Spoons, 263

Squirrel, 190

Stag, 182

Stags’ horns consecrated to Diana, 180

“ flesh supposed to ensure longevity, 183

“ fillet of stag; shoulder of stag; à la Persane; à l’Hortensius; à la Néméenne, 183

“ pies, 290

Starling, recommended by physicians; an erudite starling, 200

Statues of gods placed on the table, 389

Steward, dispensator, 376

Stilphon, his answer to Cybele, 81

Stokers, focarii, 378

Stone fruit, 97

Stork, 193, 204

Stoves of the ancients, 366

Strawberries, highly appreciated, 115

Strigil, used in the baths, 387

Structores, servants, 260, 377

Strutiophagous tribes, 203

Stuffed sucking pork, 139

Sturgeon, 216

“ a royal fish, 214

“ its price; compared to ambrosia; honours it received; announced by the sound of trumpets; an imperial dish in China, 216

“ its weight, 217

“ compared to peacocks, 224

Style of living in the 14th century, 352

Sucking-pigs, 137

“ stuffed, 139

Sucking-pig, with puddings, 351

Sugar, the honey of reeds; the Indian salt, 275

Sultana coffee, 313

Sumach, 92

Sumptuary laws, 152, 252, 346, 350, 381

Supper, 342

“ of the Hebrews, 343

“ primitive of the Romans; in the open air, 344

“ given by the Roman Emperors, 357

“ a Roman, 386

Swallow, sea, 204

Swan, 193

Sweepers, scoparii, 378

Sweet marjoram, when used, 89

Sweet wine, 326

Sword-fish, how dressed in Greece; despised by the Romans, 234

Sybaris, renowned for its good cheer, 126

Sybarites, their meditations upon a banquet, 227

Sycophants, 113

Symphoniaci, musicians, 389

Symposiarch, 391

Synthesis, a convivial dress, 389

Syracuse, its proverbial gastronomy, 127

Syrian dancers, 395

Syrup of truffles, 280

Tables, before each guest; veneered with gold; of bronze; of wood; of silver; circular, 368

“ spotted or veined; of various forms; changed at each course; how cleaned; of Cicero, 369

“ of ivory, 394

Taillevant, the cook of Charles VII. of France, 193

Talmouses, a kind of pastry, 292

Tarentum, renowned for its repasts, 126

“ the abode of luxury, 246

Tarragona overthrown by rabbits, 189

Tarts, of various sorts, 290

Taste, its definition, 124

Tax on salt, 268

Tea, gathering, 306

“ of two kinds; heating; rolling, 307

“ its miraculous origin, 308

“ compared to ambrosia, 309

“ tasters, 308

Teal, 206

Teeth, of ivory, 388

Teething repast, 357

Tence sauce, 258

Tench, mentioned by Ausonius; left to the common people, 236

Tethalassomenon wine, 330

Tétines à la Flamine; à la Salienne, 140

Thalassites wine, 330

Thasian nut, 117

Thasos wine, 328

Theagenes, a beef eater, 143

“ his voracity, 339

Theophrastus mentions the cherrytree, 102

“ “ the plum tree, 105

“ fond of pears, 107

Thesmophoria, a feast in honour of Ceres, 22

Thessalians, their appetite, 340

Thimbron, a culinary star, 254

Thorian law, respecting cattle, 127

Thrashing of corn, 14

Thrushes, 197

“ supplied an abundant manure; not eaten by children; sung by Homer; sent as wedding presents; served at sumptuous feasts; from Daphne, 197

“ kept in aviaries; sold by Varro’s aunt; how fed; their price; in the shape of crowns, 198

“ prescribed to Pompey; recommended to convalescents; their brains; eaten by Heliogabalus, 199

Thurium, its oil, 98

Thyme, its qualities; used for aromatic liqueurs, 89

“ wine, 333

Thys, his voracity, 339

Tiberius, fond of melons, 78

“ reared peacocks, 167

“ his generosity, 257

“ poisoned by mushrooms, 282

“ how he encouraged artists, 318

“ his sumptuary regulations, 347

Timachidas, a cook and a poet, 254

Titormus, his voracity, 339

Tonsores, barbers, 387

Tooth-powder used by the Romans, 387

Tortoise, its blood; of an enormous size, 246

“ how dressed, 246, 247

Tourte, a kind of cake, 291

Tractatores, servants in the baths, 387

Tremellius, took the surname of Scrofa, 128

Triclinarches, chief steward, 378

Triclinium, 372, 278

Trimalcio, a celebrated cook, 256

Trimestre, a species of corn, 20

Tripes, their reputation, 143

Triptolemus, the inventor of agriculture, 9

“ was a vegetarian, 124

Triticum, wheat, 19

Trojan pig, 137

Tromelia, renowned for cheese, 174

Trophy of agriculture, 411

Trout, little appreciated by the Greeks;

“ relished by the Romans; how dressed, 230

Troyenne, hog à la, 136

“ wild boar à la, 406

Truffles, the daughters of thunder;

“ where they grow; various sorts, 279

“ how prepared, 280

“ discovered by pigs, 135, 279

“ syrup of, 280

“ how preserved, 281

Tunny-Fish, its entrails; from Samos;

“ offered to Neptune; of Pachynum; fishery of the Synopians; how prepared, 225

“ obstructed the navigation of Alexander; of an immense size, 226

“ used for garum, 270

Turbot, a delicious food; compared to the pheasant; the turbot of Domitian, 224

“ of Attica, 225

Turnips, from Thebes; Amiternum; how they were eaten, 67

Turkey, still retains the use of garum, 273

Turkey-hen, 163

“ how many are required to eat a turkey-hen; celebrated by Sophocles; bewailing the death of Meleager; reared in Roman farms; scarce in Egypt and Greece; introduced into Rome, 164

“ sacrificed to Caligula; how fattened; à l’Africaine, 165

“ how prepared, 166

“ introduced into various countries; admired by Charles IX. of France, 165

“ turkey eggs, 166

Turtle dove, 207

Twelfth-night cake, its composition, 54

Typhes, a sort of bread, 33

Tyrontes, a sort of bread, 33

Tyrotarichus, a popular dish, 174

Uladislas (King), his repugnance to apples, 108

Ulric (St.) festival of, 215

Ulysses, renowned for carving, 129

“ laid the cloth, 252

“ a model of delicacy, 380

Unguentarii, perfumers, 387

Utensils, culinary, 261

“ of the 14th century, 265

Vanilla chocolate, 313

Variety of repasts, 354

Varro’s aviary, 198

Vase of the House of Brunswick, 302

Vases of Sardonyx, 320

“ of silver; of gold, 321

Vatel, his tragic death, 215

Vauban’s recipe for eating corn in soup, 15

Veal, à la Syracusaine; à la Tarentaise, 144

Vegetables, 49

“ dried, 53

“ relished by the Romans, 50, 51

“ how preserved; scarce in England, three centuries ago, 51

Vegetarians, 126

Venafrum, 99

Venison, appreciated by eastern nations, 181

Ventilation of the dining-room, 392

Ventre de truie à l’Athénienne; à la Romaine, 139

Verjuice, its ancient use, 277

Vertumnus, 95

Verus (the Emperor), invented a new dish, 257, 286

“ his couches, 373

Vespucius (Americus) introduced the turkey into Portugal, 165

Vesta, the goddess of bakers, 37

Vestis cœnatoria, convivial dress, 388

Vicar’s wine, 337

Victoria, coronation banquet of H. M. Queen, 408

Victua, the goddess of food, 356

Villar’s Swiss porter, 341

Vine, cultivated in England, 335

Vinegar, its alleged qualities; from Egypt; used to cool the cannons, 278

“ cruet, 264

Vines, protected by the Roman law, 324

Vinum Tethalassomenon, 330

Violatum wine, 331

Vitellius, brought the pistachio tree to Rome, 120

“ regaled on pheasants’ brains, 195

“ served with a dish of 7,000 birds, 208

“ grew tired of sea-eels, 221

“ his culinary expenses, 257, 348

“ was an active polyphagist, 341

“ his nocturnal banquets, 345

Vocatores, servants, 377

Voracity, examples of, 339, 341

Vulture, 194

Walnut tree, a native of Asia, consecrated to Jupiter, reserved to Persian kings, 118

Walnuts, when served; how eaten; their qualities; used as an antidote; strewed on the nuptial chamber, 119

Warwick, his prodigality (Earl of), 351

Washers, peniculi, 379

Water, a vivifying principle; venerated by ancient nations, 293

“ conveyed into Rome, 295

“ its curative virtue, 296

“ cure system, practised by the Romans, 297

“ hot, used to drink, 296

“ cresses, a native of Crete; esteemed by the Persians; despised by Plutarch; their properties, 84

“ an anti-scorbutic; how prepared 85

“ hen, 206

“ mills, 27, 28

Wax figures among the Romans, 377

“ vases, 318

Weaning supper, 357

Wedding-cake of the Romans, 286

“ wine, 337

“ repast of H.R.H. the Duke of Clarence, 351

“ day banquet, 357

“ of Charles VI., 259

Weights of the ancients, 130

Westphalia celebrated for hams, 137

Whales, 215

“ of four acres, 213

Wheat, 19

“ its price in Greece; public distribution in Rome, 21

“ its price in the olden times, 22

“ Indian, 44

Whiting, its light flesh, 230

“ its preparation, 231

Whitten used for tables, 368

Wild boar à la Troyenne, 185, 406

“ of immense size; served by Caranus; raised on farms, 186

“ how served, 187

“ how prepared, 186, 187

“ preceded by trumpeters, 187

Wild marjoram wine, 89

“ thyme, 89

William the Conqueror, his sumptuous banquets, 352

Wind-mills, 29

Wine, of grain; of the Britons, 301

“ obtained from fruits, 305, 322

“ disliked by some nations, 323

“ method of making, 325

“ fining of; how clarified, 327

“ of different kinds; Greek; Italian, 328

“ of a hundred leaves; white; red; two hundred years old; how to change its colour, 329

“ mixed with sea-water; of Chios; various made wines, 330

“ interdicted to Roman ladies, 331, 332

“ its price in Greece; in Rome, 331

“ the drink of generous souls, 332

“ of Campania, 333

“ dealers in, 336

“ used for presents and fees; of citizenship, 337

“ sweet, 326

“ hot, 393

“ press of the ancients, 325

Wood, an extraordinary eater (Nicholas), 341

Woodcock, how prepared, 207

Wood-hen, 206

Wormwood, esteemed by the Egyptians; its various uses, 93

“ wine; its composition; it prevented giddiness, 98, 334

Wreaths of flowers, 391

Wrestlers fed on pork, 135

“ rewarded with an ox, 142

“ fed with cheese, 173

Xerxes, fighting for figs, 114

Xiphias fish, 225

York banquet, 403

Ypocras, 338

Zea, rice wheat, 20

Zeno, of Citium, of the same nature as the lupins, 47

“ cooked his lentils himself, 57

Zythum, beer, 299

ERRATA.

Page 16, line 19, for which great and the, read which the great and glorious. P. 19, l. 16, for Picardy to make bread, read in Picardy. To make bread. P. 19, l. 16, for of leaven and, read of leaven is required, and. P. 26, l. 6, for Flamine, read Flamen. P. 26, l. 25, for leaves read loaves. P. 27, l. 20, for Cabire read Cabira. P. 28, l. 28, for hand-mill; by the Britons, read hand-mill, by the Britons. P. 32, l. 11, for Megalarte and Megalomar, read Megalartus and Megalomazus. P. 33, l. 2, for escarites, read escharites. P. 33, l. 7, for melitutes, read melitates. P. 37, l. 8, for Septier, read Setier. P. 50, l. 25, for Ciens cheris, read lieux cheris. P. 63, l. 28, for chrysolacanon, read chrysolachanon. P. 65, l. 34, for has, read have. P. 67, l. 20, for Amitermes, read Amiternum. P. 68, l. 18, for possessed, read possesses. P. 79, l. 11, for Algidea, read Algidus. P. 84, l. 25, for dressed it in, read dressed in. P. 93, l. 32, for Corcyrus, read Corcyra. P. 98, l. 15, for Halmade, read Halmades. P. 99, l. 26, for Venafra, read Venafrum. P. 100, l. 31, for sechar, read schecar. P. 103, l. 11, for Cæcilian, read Cecilian. P. 106, l. 18, for fruit of, read fruit, the. P. 124, l. 31, for Hyberbius, read Hyperbius. P. 125, l. 2, for Erichtonius, read Erichthonius. P. 129, l. 1, for curators, read curator. P. 129, l. 25, for life, read life, the. P. 136, l. 16, for Chalies, read Chalcis. P. 139, l. 38, for à la Bœotienne read à la Béotienne. P. 143, l. 15, for Thasos, read Thasus. P. 149, l. 2, for Mœlos, read Melos. P. 153, l. 2, for Carniphobis, read Carniphobus. P. 150, l. 25, for Scipio, Metellus, and, read Scipio Metellus and. P. 170, l. 26, for philosopher, read philologist. P. 171, l. 17, for bouturos, read bouturon. P. 176, l. 7, for consort of Nero, read consort of Augustus. P. 189, l. 5, for consectuive, read consecutive. P. 203, l. 23, for Marmot, read Marmol. P. 213, l. 9, for scare, read scar. P. 216, l. 9, et passim, for accipenser, read acipenser. P. 225, l. 8, for Pachynum, read Pachynus. P. 296, l. 13, for Sicyona, read Sicyon. P. 230, l. 23, for pèsant, read pèsent. P. 235, l. 21, for of Scyathus, read of Sciathos. P. 236, l. 29, for the Mostella, read the Mosella. P. 237, l. 17, for the Bulistes, read the Balistes. P. 238, l. 2, for of Phaleres, read of Phalera. P. 242, l. 9, for of Polareo, read of Pelorus. P. 247, l. 6, for Minturnus, read Minturnæ. P. 250, l. 12, for a hook, read to hook. P. 251, l. 24, for Pandarea, read Pandarus. P. 253, l. 12, for the act of eating, read the art of eating. P. 378, l. 3, for Cnide, read Cnidus. P. 270, l. 12, for Acarnidea, Alopecomesia, read Acarne, Alopeconnesus. P. 291, l. 26, for eleven hundred, read eleven. P. 293, l. 25, for he prayed it might be, read he prayed that the Tiber might be. P. 309, l. 27, for Simon introduced Pauli, read Simon Pauli introduced. P. 317, l. 25, for we have spoken, read we will soon speak. P. 323, l. 1, for Helbon, read Hebron. P. 325, l. 39, for Plate III., read Plate I. P. 366, l. 30, for minutalim, read minutatim. P. 378, l. 15 and 36, for Procillatores, read Procillator.

DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XXVI. A, PAGE 365.

No. 1. Terra-Cotta Drinking-Vase, in the shape of a Bird.

No. 2. Drinking-Vase in the shape of a Tea-pot.

No. 3. Drinking-Cup, with Jupiter’s Head.

* * * * *

* * * * *

WORKS BY A. SOYER.

Lately Published, the Eighth Edition, Handsomely Bound, Price 15s.,

THE

Gastronomic Regenerator:

A

SIMPLIFIED AND ENTIRELY NEW

SYSTEM OF COOKERY,

WITH NEARLY

TWO THOUSAND PRACTICAL RECIPES,

SUITED TO THE INCOME OF ALL CLASSES.

ILLUSTRATED WITH

NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS,

AND CORRECT AND MINUTE PLANS HOW KITCHENS OF EVERY SIZE, FROM THE KITCHEN OF A ROYAL PALACE TO THAT OF THE HUMBLE COTTAGE, ARE TO BE CONSTRUCTED AND FURNISHED.

BY A. SOYER.

LONDON: SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO., STATIONERS’ HALL COURT: AND SOLD BY JOHN OLLIVIER, PALL-MALL. 1853.

For Criticisms see the Public Press in 1846.

* * * * *

The Gastronomic Regenerator

TRANSLATION FROM THE FRENCH OF A CULINARY DIALOGUE BETWEEN LORD M. H. AND A. SOYER.--From the “Gastronomic Regenerator,” p. 611.

S.--You are perfectly right, my Lord, the title of “Gourmet” belongs only to him who eats with art, science, and care, and even with great care.

LORD M.--The “Gourmand” is never entitled to the name of “Gourmet;” the one eats without tasting, whilst the other tastes in eating.

S.--The proud and haughty man, my Lord, orders his dinner from necessity; the man of the world--the profound epicure--orders his with delight.

LORD R.--It is quite certain that too much attention cannot be given to the proper execution of, and the intelligence displayed in, the order of a dinner. The dinner--being of each day, each season, each century--is not only an hereditary fashion, but also the soul of sociability; read history, and you will perceive that, in all times, amongst all people, the good which has been done--and sometimes the evil--was always preceded or followed by a banquet.

S.--Nothing is more true, my Lord. Of all the pleasures which are bestowed upon us in this world, that of the table is the only one which, when the reins of the car of life become slack, parts from us with regret, and often, as a faithful friend, leaves us but at the brink of the tomb; whilst all other pleasures disappear gradually, like the fading of a beautiful autumn, and cover our heads with the hoary locks of winter.

LORD M.--It is positive that the gift of degustation belongs to all ages of life,--a centenarian whom I knew well retained this pleasure until his last hour.

S.--Our degustative senses require continual study, and unceasingly claim a constant change.

LORD M.--The greatest wit lacks eloquence, if he neglect too much the nature of his repast.

S.--Which proves, my Lord, that our most agreeable sensations depend, not solely on nature, but on the care we take of ourselves.

LORD M.--Yes, the more sensitive the soul, the greater the power of degustation. The degustative sensations operate with as great activity on the palate as the charm of melody acts on the ear; for example, man in a state of madness feels the want of eating, but the enchanting pleasure of degustation is as much denied to him as that of reason.

S.--Your argument on this point is extremely just, my Lord; and are you not of my opinion, that nothing disposes the human heart to amicable feelings more than a dinner well conceived and artistically prepared?

LORD M.--It is that which has always made me say that a good cook is as useful as a good tutor.

S.--I have always perceived, my Lord, that the finest palate is the most difficult to please, but also the most just in praise.

LORD M.--The choice of wines is of great importance in the progress of a dinner: a fine wine, light and generous, protects the cook and becomes the benefactor of the guest.

S.--Permit me also to observe, my Lord, that a gastronomic réunion, without the beau sexe is to me a flower-bed without flowers, an ocean without waves, a fleet without sails.

LORD M.--Certainly, such réunions are the cradles of good manners and sociability, even as intemperance is the tomb of morality.

* * * * *

Just Published, the Thirtieth Thousand, Price 7s. 6d.,

THE

Modern Housewife, or Menagere,

COMPRISING

Nearly One Thousand Recipes for the Economic and Judicious Preparation of Every Meal of the Day,

AND THOSE FOR

THE NURSERY AND SICK-ROOM,

WITH MINUTE DIRECTIONS FOR FAMILY MANAGEMENT IN ALL ITS BRANCHES.

BY A. SOYER, AUTHOR OF “THE GASTRONOMIC REGENERATOR,”

Illustrated with Numerous Engravings.

For Criticisms, see the Public Press in 1849.

LONDON: SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, AND CO., STATIONERS’ HALL COURT,

1853.

* * * * *

COPY OF A LETTER RECENTLY RECEIVED BY THE AUTHOR FROM DR. ERASMUS WILSON, AUTHOR OF “HEALTHY SKIN, A POPULAR TREATISE ON THE SKIN AND HAIR.”

17, HENRIETTA STREET, CAVENDISH SQUARE, July 18th, 1853.

SIR,

May I beg your acceptance of the accompanying small volume, for the part illustration of which I am indebted to your admirable “Housewife.” Your nursery dinner is one of the most valuable pages I have ever read on the subject of Diet; and it is calculated to confer an everlasting benefit on society.

I am, Sir,

Your faithful servant,

ERASMUS WILSON.

A. SOYER, ESQ.

* * * * *

Extract from “Healthy Skin, a Popular Treatise on the Skin and Hair.”

By Erasmus Wilson, F.R.S.

There is another branch of dietetics that calls for an observation from me, I mean the diet of children. Children are growing animals; nutrition in them is active, and calls for good and plentiful material in the shape of nourishment. As far as period is concerned, the same law that applies to adults is equally suited to them, three meals a day, an interval of four hours between each. I speak of children out of arms, not of infants. The substance of their meals cannot be too nutritive, or too much varied.

That the diet of children cannot be too varied or extensive is a doctrine I have long held; and I was recently much charmed in finding the subject treated with such admirable sense and judgment by a high authority in the science of living--Soyer. His letter entitled “The Nursery Dinner,” in the “Modern Housewife,” I cannot too strongly commend to the perusal and attention of my readers, and to the study of those on whom the proper rearing of children in any way rests. Speaking of the diet of children for the day, this author writes:--“Bread and milk for breakfast at eight; the dinner at one, which was composed as follows throughout the week,--roast mutton and apple pudding, roast beef and currant pudding, baked apples; boiled mutton with turnips, after which rice or vermicelli pudding; occasionally a little salt beef, with suet dumplings, plain and with currants in them, or pease pudding; or if unwell, a little veal or chicken broth, or beef-tea.”

This scheme of diet is intended for the children of persons in very moderate circumstances; but for those who can afford it he prescribes, as the dinner of one day, roast mutton: “then the next day I would give them a small piece of mutton plain boiled, with turnips, and apple tart, or a few slices of roast beef, or a small piece roasted on purpose, after which a very plain currant pudding; or, occasionally, a little pickled pork, with pease pudding, or roast pork, with baked apples, and now and then a little salt beef, but very well boiled, with suet dumplings, and occasionally, for change, either bread, vermicelli, or tapioca puddings; in case of illness, and with the approbation of the doctor, veal, mutton, or chicken-broth, sago, gruel, panada, &c. Many people may perhaps imagine that there is too much variety of food for children, but it is quite the contrary, for change of food is to the stomach what change of air is to the general health; and of course, with children, these changes must be effected with judgment.”

Soyer is perfectly right with regard to the question of variety of food for children; and the intention is so rational, that it is difficult to conceive how a difference of opinion can exist with regard to its truth; and yet I have heard parents make a boast that their children were fed exclusively upon mutton, as though it were their intention to render the stomach incapable of supporting and digesting any other kind of food,--in which they generally succeed.

Sameness of food, improper food, defective ventilation, and insufficient exercise, are the causes of most of the diseases of children; and especially of cutaneous complaints. This is the secret of the ring-worms and scald-heads of public seminaries. In some of these institutions, as I have heard, there is a ceremony in which the children take a public meal in the presence of the governors and their friends. On these occasions, the platters eclipse in whiteness the envious snow; a suppressed burst of delight is heard from the spectators; the morsel of cheese, cut with mathematical precision, would not vary a grain in the thousand platters; the bread--what ingenuity!--each with his neighbour a very twin. And how many days in the year do the children enjoy this fattening collation?--365. For three hundred and sixty-five days, for a thousand children, is this “toujours perdrix” feast the very same; and yet there are people in the world who wonder that diseases should break out, that skin affections should be rife, that consumptions should prevail. Engraft a bud of Soyer on such an institution, and health and happiness, learning, ability, and talent will take the place of disease, melancholy, stupidity, and common-place intellect. What, now, in this intelligent country, if there were a college of cookery, with Soyer for its head?

* * * * *

Now in progress,

Soyer’s Plain Cookery for the People,

CONTAINING NUMEROUS RECIPES,

Adapted for the Cottage of the Labourer, the Home of the Artisan, and the Chamber of the Invalid.

* * * * *

NOTE BY THE AUTHOR.

In the year 1846 I published a work on Cookery, entitled “The Gastronomic Regenerator,” which was very successful. At page 650 I observed that if any author were to write a work on the History of Food and Cookery, it would not only be very interesting, but also an extremely useful production. No one, however, having entertained my suggestion, I determined to undertake the task, and, after several years of deep study and perseverance, have completed this voluminous work.

In the “Modern Housewife,” which I published in 1849, treating of sauces prepared by the ancients, I said, that “In all ages and countries removed from barbarism, where fish has formed an article of diet, sauces of various kinds have been an accompaniment. With the Romans, in the time of Lucullus, great care was observed in their preparation; the most celebrated of those which they used were the Garum and the Muria.

“The Garum was a sauce which the Romans used in nearly all their dishes; the preference was given to that which came from Antipolis and from Dalmatia. Horace praises that made at Byzantium, being the most esteemed and the most expensive: its composition is unknown.”[I] The epicures of the present day should offer a premium for that which, in their opinion, may bear the greatest resemblance to this ancient relish. It is a subject well worthy the attention of the professors of our universities; perhaps some leaf yet undiscovered, that may have escaped the conflagration of Alexandria, might throw some light upon so interesting a subject.

A. SOYER.

42 Trinity Square, Tower Hill.

Vizetelly and Company, Printers and Engravers, 155 Fleet Street, London.