III. REEVING RUNNING RIGGING
=209.=--FORE BOWLINES.
The fore bowlines have an eye in one end, to go over the toggle, and are rove through a single block, seized into a single strap, and secured to the fore-stay collar with a seizing passed through an eye left in the strap, and the other end led in on the forecastle.
The fore and main clue-garnets are hitched to the yards, then rove through a block lashed in the clews of the sail, up through a block on the quarter of the yard, down to the fife-rail.
=210.=--FORE-TOPSAIL CLEWLINES.
Topsail clewlines are fitted the same as clew-garnets, and sometimes with a whip; they come on deck through lubber’s hole.
When fitted with a whip, a piece of rope nearly equal to the double clewline, is rove through the quarter-block, and an eye spliced in one end, which is secured with a seizing round the clew, when the sail is bent. In the other end, splice a single block, and reeve a fall through it; one end splice into a bolt in the deck, and the other reeve through a leading-block, well apart from the standing-part.
Note.--The disadvantage of double clewlines, is, the points getting in the clew-blocks when clewing up, or sheeting home.
=211.=--TOPSAIL BUNTLINES
Are toggled to the foot of the sails, and rove through single blocks at the mast-head, underneath the rigging, and through lubber’s hole on deck. Cheeks or sheaves set in the foremost end of the trestle-trees are best, as they keep the buntlines clear of the belly of the sails. Blocks in bolts will do equally as well, but do not look so neat. I would recommend fitting a shoe-block underneath the eyes of the rigging, on each side, in preference.
Buntline-spans are short pieces of rope, with a thimble in one end, and the other end whipped; the buntlines are rove through these thimbles, before being bent to the sail, or rove at the mast-head. At sea these spans are knotted together, abaft the tye-blocks on the yard, and stopped to them. When in harbor, they are let go, to allow the sails being triced well-up to furl, or hauled out to dry, by the bowlines, when toggled to the foot of the sail.
=212.=--FORETOP BOWLINES
Have an eye spliced in one end to go over the toggle on the bridle; the other is rove through a block at the bowsprit-cap, strapped into a bolt, or a sheave cut in the after end of the bees and led in on the forecastle.
=213.=--MAIN BUNTLINES.
There are two on each quarter, and reeve on the bights. Reeve first through the large sheave in a shoe-block, then reeve both ends, from forward, through the double block under the fore part of the main-top, and bend or clinch both ends to the holes in the foot of the sail for the purpose. Sometimes toggles are fitted into the holes, with double straps, and an eye spliced into each end of the buntlines. If no shoe-block is to be got, seize two single ones into one strap. Through the other sheave of shoe-block, reeve a fall; clinch one end to the main-stay by the foremast, or splice an eye and seize it round it. The other end reeve through a leading block, seized into a single strap, leaving an eye to seize it to the stay, or through a sheave or leading block in the fore-bitts.
=214.=--FORE BUNTLINES
Generally toggle to the foot of the sail, and are sometimes clinched; then rove through a double block under the fore part of the fore-top, and through fair leading sheaves in the racks to the bulwarks. The buntline should be long enough to allow the sail to belly. The outside leg of the buntline is sometimes rove through a thimble strapped into the foot of the sail, and clenched into a cringle put into the bolt-rope, a few feet above the clew.
=215.=--MAIN BOWLINE
Is a runner and tackle, and is rove and unrove as required. It is rove through the thimble seized on the bowline bridle; the end of the runner is secured round the fore-bitts, or to a cleat. The lower block of the gun-tackle purchase is fitted with a hook, and hooked to a strap close to the end of the runner, for the purpose. I have seen the main-bowline boused up to the weather-forecastle bulwarks, which I think preferable, not seeing any very great advantage from its being hauled amidships; particularly when it is considered that the main-topsail yard, on a wind, is braced abaft the main-yard.
=216.=--TOPGALLANT SHEETS
Are rove through the sheave in the topsail-yard, then through the after sheave in the double block in the quarter of the topsail-yard, and through a leading sheave or block on deck. The upper end is bent to the clew of the topgallant-sail; sometimes a long-eye is spliced, which goes over a toggle in the clew of the sail. They are also fitted with sister-hooks, which is the latest and most improved plan.
=217.=--TOPGALLANT CLEWLINES
Are bent through the clew of the sail, and secured with a sheet-bend; it is then rove through the foremost sheave on the quarter-block on the yard, and sent down through lubber’s hole on deck.
=218.=--FORE TOPGALLANT BOWLINES
Are toggled to the bridle of the sail. The fore one is rove through a single block at the jib-boom end, one on each side, and led in on the forecastle through fair leaders. These blocks are strapped like span-blocks, and lashed together on the upper side with two lashing-eyes; they are sometimes strapped singly, and go over the boom-end, or seized to the guys. Double blocks are also sometimes put in these straps, and the two inner sheaves used as jib-brail-leaders.
=219.=--MAIN TOPGALLANT BOWLINES
Are toggled to the bridle of the sail, then rove through sheaves cut in the after part of the fore-topmast-crosstrees, and through lubber’s hole, through fair leading sheaves on deck. Single tail-blocks are sometimes used, clove-hitched round the after shroud in the fore-topmast rigging, close up to the futtock-stave, or seized.
=220.=--MIZEN TOPGALLANT BOWLINES
Are toggled to the bridle of the sail, and rove through single blocks on each side of the main-mast head, and through fair leading blocks on deck. A double block is often used instead of two single ones on each side, one sheave for the brace, the other for the bowline. They should be led from lubber’s hole abaft all, between the cat-harpen legs, or futtock-shrouds.
=221.=--TOPGALLANT BUNTLINES
Are seldom used in light weather, although very necessary in taking in sail, when blowing fresh, as they save much time, and in some instances a man’s life. On a wind it spills the sail, and prevents its getting over the lee yard-arm; and going free enables the men to furl it much easier. A strong proof of their utility may be inferred from the fact that merchant vessels, who have as little rope rove as possible, and are generally weak-handed, have their sails fitted with buntlines.
They are fitted as follows:--A piece of rope with a thimble on it, is spliced into two eyelet-holes, worked in the foot of the sail, about a third from each clew.[22] Splice the end of the buntline round the thimble; reeve the other end through a single block, seized into a single strap, and secured round the topgallant mast-head by a lashing passed over all; send the end of the buntline through lubber’s hole, on deck before all to the fife-rail.
[22] This piece of rope is called a span.
=222.=--ROYAL BOWLINES.
The fore royal-bowline is rove through a block at the flying-jib-boom end, and led in on the forecastle, through a fair leader, the same as the topgallant-bowline, and the main-royal bowlines through the chock at fore-topmast head.
=223.=--REEF-TACKLES
Are sometimes double, and also fitted with a whip, as clewlines, or pendant and burton. When double, a single block is seized into a single strap, having a thimble in it, and the seizing passed between the block and thimble. This block goes on the bridle, or cringle, in the leech of the topsails. One end of the reef-tackle is clinched round the neck of the boom-iron, the other rove through the block, up through the sheave in the yard-arm, and through the upper sheave in the sister-block, through lubber’s hole, and through a leading block or sheave on deck.
When single, an eye is spliced in the end of the pendant, to go over a toggle fitted to a bridle, as above; the other end rove through the yard and sister-block, a single block spliced into the end, and a whip rove, as on the clewline.
Note.--The generality of naval ships use their top-burtons with short hide-pendants; some object to this, as the top-burtons may be wanted, when they are in use as reef-tackles.
=224.=--LEECH-LINES.
The forward leech-lines are rove through the upper sheave-hole of a shoe-block; both parts are then rove through a double block, hooked with a pendant to the lower cap, then through two single blocks seized to the jackstays on the yards, and are clinched to the leeches of the courses, forward of the sail.
The lower legs are rove through the other sheave-hole in the shoe-block, and the standing-part made fast to the fife-rail; the other end being used to haul up the sails.
The after leech-lines are rove through blocks on the underneath part of the yard, and clinched to the courses abaft the sail, to the same places as the forward ones.
Note.--Shoe-blocks are now pretty much out of fashion--when they are not used, both parts of the leech-lines are led on deck and the whip-purchase dispensed with.
=225.=--SLAB-LINES
Are bent to the middle of a span at the foot of the sail, led up abaft, and rove through a block lashed to the grommet or span, around the straps of the quarter-blocks of the lower yards, and down on deck. These are very necessary in light weather, and in rough weather, may be converted into spilling-lines.
=226.=--ROYAL CLEW-LINES
Are bent to the clews of the sail, rove through the quarter-blocks on the yard, and led either in the tops, or on deck.
=227.=--FITTING TACKS AND SHEETS, BUMKIN-GEAR, &c.
A single block is seized into a single strap, leaving an eye to fit the bumkin; this block is made with a shoulder, which lays on the bumkin when the block is on.
Bumkin-braces are now generally chain; one is hooked to the bow, and two to the cutwater; and set up with a lanyard rove through span-shackles in their ends, and others on the bumkin, or with a turnbuckle.
Reeving the tack.--Clinch the large end round the bumkin, outside the block, having been well wormed, parceled, and served, far enough towards the small end to take the block on the bumkin, when the sail is reefed. Reeve the small end through the block in the sail, then through that on the bumkin, and in on the forecastle through a hole in the bulwarks, for the purpose.
Fore sheet.--The large end is served the same as the tack, and is hooked into a bolt in the side for the purpose; the small end is rove through the block in the sail, and through a sheave in the side, or gangway bulwarks. Large ships generally work the fore-sheet in the waist (main-deck), but it is often worked on the gangway, (spar-deck).
=228.=--YARD TACKLE TRICING-LINES.
If no cheek on the yard, take the pendants taut along from the yard-arm, and then secure a single tail-block. On the foremost shroud, well up, seize another single block, fitted with a single strap, leaving room when seized-in, for the seizing with which it is secured to the shroud. Round the fiddle-block in the pendant, between both sheaves, secure the tricing-line with a running-eye; then reeve the other end through the cheek, or tail-block, and then through the single block on the shroud, and on deck.
=229.=--TO REEVE AND TOGGLE ROYAL-HALLIARDS.
Take a round-turn with the yard-rope, well up round the strap of the block, with the long-eye; reeve the bight through the eye and put the toggle in it; then bring the end up from the block seized to the eye of the shroud, and reeve it through the one on the yard-rope, send the end on deck, and reeve it through a leading block.
When half-hitched, the lower block is fitted as described, and secured; the upper one is strapped with a thimble in the strap--reeve the yard-rope through the thimble, and then through the lower block, up through the upper one, and on deck through a leader.
=230.=--FORE STORM-STAYSAIL GEAR.
To fit the stay.--Take a piece of good rope of proportionable size to the sail; fit one end with two legs as a stay, and lash them abaft the foremast-head, the legs being placed underneath those of the standing-stay. Take a piece of rope the round of the bowsprit, inside the fore-stay collar; splice an eye in each end, and seize a thimble in the bight--splice a lashing in one eye, and secure the strap round the bowsprit, by passing it through both eyes, until sufficient turns are taken to secure it. Reeve the end of this stay through the hanks for the sail, then reeve it through the thimble in the strap, and set it well up with a luff-purchase; the double block hooked to a strap well up the stay, the single one to another strap on the end; then pass a round-seizing round both parts, close to the thimble--come up the luff, and pass another seizing between it and the end, but not at too great a distance, as it will prevent the sail from coming close down.
Halliards.--Have a good strap to go round the foremast-head, close to the stay. It can be fitted with two lashing-eyes, and when so fitted can be easier taken off, and put on. When the sail is to be set, hook the double block of a luff-tackle to this strap, and the single one to the head of the sail; the hauling-part being sent down abaft the fore-yard, and through a leading block on deck.
Downhaul.--A single block is secured to the parts of the strap round the bowsprit--the downhaul is spliced to the head of the sail, then rove through the hanks, through the single block, and led in on the forecastle. When a stay is fitted, the downhaul block is seized to the strap round the bowsprit.
The downhaul is often double; if so, a single block is secured to the head of the sail, the standing-part of the downhaul secured to the strap on the bowsprit, and the hauling-part led in as before.
Sheets.--Deck-tackles are generally used, one on each side; they are hooked to the clew of the sail, and the hooks well moused. When the sheet is aft, the weather one is overhauled. The after blocks are hooked to eye or ring-bolts, as convenient, and should not be too high or too low; if too much up and down, they slack the foot of the sail; if too high, the after leech. The falls are rove through leading blocks, and all the hooks should be well moused.
Note.--These stays when set up, may be secured cutter-stay-fashion, instead of seizing the end up, which will allow the sail to haul close down on the bowsprit.
=231.=--MAIN STAYSAIL GEAR.
The stay is fitted the same as the fore, and sets up round the cross-piece in the fore bitts, after being rove through the hanks.
The halliards are fitted the same as the fore.
The downhaul is rove through a block strapped round the bitts for the purpose. If rove double they are fitted in the same manner.
Instead of iron hanks, I have seen grommets used, made of pieces of rope, with a wall-knot worked on one end, and an eye spliced in the other; these are long enough to go round the stay and becket. They are secured to eyelet-holes in the sail with a seizing, and are always kept to it. I have seen the sails set on the spring-stays, when fitted in this way, but prefer separate stays.
There are also other ways of setting storm-staysails, but those I have mentioned are in most general use. When a main-trysail can be got, mizen-staysails should never be drawn, as a ship will keep much better to windward with trysails and fore-staysail, than under the staysails alone.
=232.=--MIZEN-STAYSAIL GEAR.
The halliards are hitched to the collar of the staysail-stay, rove through a block in the head of the sail, then through a leader, and led down on deck.
The downhaul is clinched to the head of the sail, and rove through the hanks down the mizen-stay. The mizen staysail-sheet is a runner, leading through a snatch-block and thimble. A gun-tackle purchase is most commonly used, which answers all purposes.
=233.=--TOPMAST STAYSAILS, &c., &c.
Fore.--The standing part of the halliards is seized or hitched to the fore topmast spring-stay, then rove through a block in the head of the sail, up through a leading block under the eyes of the topmast rigging, then down on the larboard side of the deck abaft the foremast. The downhaul is hitched to the head of the sail, rove through the hanks, then through a block seized to the tack of the sail, and led in on the forecastle, through a fair leader. The tack is a simple lashing.
The fore topmast staysail and jib-sheets are pendants lashed to the clew of the sail, with a block in the end, through which the sheets are rove; the standing part is hooked to an eyebolt in the bows, and the running part is led in on the forecastle.
Main.--The standing part of the halliards is hitched to the collar of the main-topmast spring-stay, reeving through a block at the head of the sail, then through a block at the main-topmast head, and led down on deck. The downhaul is fitted the same as the fore, and led down by the fore-mast. The tack is rove through a block in the weather fore-rigging, or top.
The main topmast staysail-brails are seized to the leech of the sail, led up through the hanks to a block seized to the upper hank, and can also be used as a downhaul.
The middle, lower, and upper topgallant-staysails and jackstays, may be fitted in one. In this case a double block is turned in, and lashed to the after part of the fore-topmast crosstrees, or mast-head; the lower part is set up in the fore-top, and the upper part at the fore-topgallant mast-head.
The middle staysail-stays are rove through a single block, strapped to the topmast, down on the cap.
The lower and upper topgallant staysail-stays, are rove through blocks fitted to traverse the jackstay, with lock-thimbles, the former being rove through the other sheave of the double block at the topmast cross-trees; the latter through a block at the fore-topgallant mast-head, and both led on deck.
The downhaul blocks are single, and are seized to the straps of the tricing-line blocks. The halliards are whips hitched to the collars of the stays, rove through blocks in the head of the sail, through leading blocks at the mast-head, and down on deck. The tacks are single and led in the fore-top; the sheets are also single, leading in the gangways.
Note.--The principle object to be attended to, in reeving running-rigging, is to avoid the ropes being too much crowded in one place, crossing or chafing each other, or any part of the standing rigging, as it not only destroys it, but also decreases the desired purchase to be obtained by their running clear of each other.
=234.=--SETTING UP RIGGING FOR A FULL-DUE.
Have all the luffs on deck; fore, main, and mizen pendant-tackles hooked, and tackle-falls laid along for pulling up; new lanyards ready for reeving, seizings, marling-spikes, levers, mallets, grease, small spars for ratling-down, triangles rigged ready for hoisting up the mast, to secure the futtock-shrouds and cat-harpen legs, (if used;) burton-falls sent on deck and rove--all the temporary ratlines cast-off--spars got up underneath the bowsprit with the gratings for the men to work on--topgallant-masts and flying jib-boom housed; and also men stationed at the dead-eyes to turn in if required. Let everything go abaft the masts, commence turning in the dead-eyes, and reeve the lanyards--set up the bowsprit-rigging and secure it. Then man the pendant-tackles, set taut the after-swifters--(if wedges in) get the mast well forward in its place, and secure the stays. Cast off the cat-harpen legs (if fitted), and futtock-shrouds.[23] Set up the rigging for a full-due, observing the same precautions as when it was first set up.
The lanyard is now rove full, and when racked, take the end and form a clove-hitch above the dead-eye, then rack the surplus-end to the inside parts of the lanyard, until the end is expended. The hitch is formed between the dead-eye and shroud, around both parts, in the space left by stretching--some use a half-hitch taken over all round the shroud, hove well back, the lanyard expended, and the end seized. The ends of the shrouds are then cut square and capped, and the mats laced on.
Rigging-mats are made with small rope, three-quarter-inch, and are called sword-mats. They are generally the breadth of the dead-eye, and long enough to take in both--the lanyards are laced inside. They are hardly ever used on topmast rigging; they look heavy, and are of no use, except on the forward shrouds and backstays.
[23] Vessels having their futtock-rigging set up to bands round the mast, use no cat-harpen legs, and have therefore no occasion of coming up either of the above.
=235.=--STAYING MASTS.
The practice of “staying masts with the wedges in,” has been already denounced as contrary to every received system of seamanship. The stays may be set taut with the wedges in, but the masts should be always free in the partners, whenever there is occasion to alter the position of their standing; because it is impossible but that the precise situation of the mast must be altered a little, rendering necessary corresponding alterations in the wedges. When these are made and the wedges firmly fixed, there can be no inequalities of play or pressure--the whole becomes a solid mass, yielding naturally and uniformly to the motion of the ship. Whereas, if in setting up the rigging the wedges be kept fast, the mast pressing unequally against them, having too much play in one part, and too little in another, it must inevitably get crippled.
In preparing to set up the rigging, though the stays may not appear to require a pull, it is well to have the luffs and tackle ready; for after lifting the wedges, there is great probability of its being found necessary.
=236.=--BLACKING RIGGING.
The most convenient method of blacking rigging, is with the topgallant masts on deck, but royal and topgallant rigging placed at the mast-heads; for then men who ride down and black the topmast-stays, can then at the same time easily black the topgallant and royal-stays; or, what is handier still--let the men at the mast-head haul over and black these small stays, and pay them down forward when done. The men also who black down the topmast-backstays, can carry on at the same time with the topgallant and royal-backstays. By this method the masts are kept clean.
If, on the other hand, topgallant-masts be kept up when blacking, the small stays and backstays must be let go, in order that they may be got at by the men on the topmast-stays and backstays; consequently the masts must be adrift, are likely to be daubed over with blacking, and if it should come on to blow fresh, so as to render it necessary to get the topgallant-masts on deck, much injury must result to the blacking.
The topsail and lower lifts should be blackened first, the men having to stand on the yards to do them.
Previous to commencing, the decks should be well sanded, and the paint-work and head covered with old canvass. The quarter-tackle should be clapped on one side of the main-yard, and also a burton hooked, ready for clearing boats.
The finer and warmer the day, the better--the blacking will lay on so much the smoother and thinner; but commencement should be delayed until the dew is well dried off. A dry calm day is the best; for the blacking will not take effect, unless the surface it is laid upon be dry.
=237.=--STATIONING THE CREW.
In dividing the crew into watches, care should be taken that the physical force is as equally distributed as possible, and that there be as many seamen, ordinary seamen, boys, and marines, in one watch as in another.
Petty officers should be chosen from among the seamen, and those selected who have been long in the service, and have proved faithful. Forecastle men should be middle-aged seamen, with a few ordinary seamen and landsmen. Young active seamen should be selected for topmen, also a few ordinary seamen, landsmen and boys. After-guard, a few elderly seamen, with ordinary seamen and landsmen. Waisters are chiefly landsmen, with a few ordinary seamen; in single-decked vessels, where there are no waisters, more men should be stationed on the forecastle and in the after-guard, in proportion to the number of the crew of the different classes of vessels. Idlers are excused from keeping watch--they are officers’ servants, cooks, &c., &c.
Divide each watch into first and second parts, and appoint a captain to each part; number the men belonging to the forecastle, having all the larboard watch even, as two, four, six, and the starboard odd; have the numbers painted on canvass, and let each man sew it on his bag and hammock; having also for greater distinction, the larboard painted red, and the starboard black. The men should be below alternately, so that when one watch is below, there should be an equal number of the other watch on deck.
=238.=--STATIONING THE CREW AT QUARTERS.
Captains of the guns should be chosen from among the seamen who have been long accustomed to them, steady, with good sight, and quick motion. The largest and stoutest men should be chosen to man the long guns, the others the cannonades. The boarders should be stout men--the firemen and sail-trimmers, active young men. Be particular to station them as near where they are accustomed to do their duty as possible, in order to prevent confusion. Let all the first part of the gun’s crew be in one watch, and the second part in the other, so that in the event of going to quarters in the night, the watch on deck can clear away the guns, while the watch below will clear away the hammocks.
To a twelve-pounder cannonade are stationed four men and one boy. All the men stationed at the long guns of a double-decked ship, should be armed with cutlasses, and called “boarders”--the first of the gun’s crew to be called second boarders, and vice versa. They are only to be called on when required to “board,” or in a case of great emergency to “repel boarders,” and then every man will repair to the upper-deck, except the firemen, quarter-gunners, and powder boys, who will remain below to protect the ports, or to assist in extinguishing a fire.
All the men stationed at the cannonades should be boarders and sail-trimmers. As boarders, the first part should be armed with pikes; the second part with small-arms, who are to repel the boarders, but not to quit the ship.
In a single-decked ship, all the men stationed are boarders; the first part to be armed with cutlasses, and the second with pikes.
The battery being manned, distribute the rest of the crew as follows:--have a quarter-master at the signals, when in a squadron--topmen and marines in the tops, to repair damages, and act as small-arm-men--a quarter-master and two men at the relieving tackles--men stationed at the passages, to pass full and empty boxes; also others at the shot-lockers. Mastmen to see the rigging clear--cook, and armorer at the galley--the carpenter and his mates at the pumps and wings--the master-at-arms, and ship’s corporal in the light-room--the gunner, his mates, quarter-gunners, and cooper, in the magazine, and the surgeon and assistants in the cock-pit.
=239.=--STATIONING THE CREW FOR MOORING AND UNMOORING.
In stationing the men, place the same number of men, of each watch, to perform a piece of duty. When in a squadron, have quarter-masters at the signals, and also in the chains--men at the wheel--quarter-gunners to overhaul the fish, and grapple the buoys--men to overhaul and hook the cat, and attend the back-ropes; also others at the mast, to see the rigging clear. Boatswain’s mates in the gangways; carpenter’s mates to ship and unship the capstan bars, and attend the stanchions, with the music at the capstan--some fore-topmen to put on nippers, or selvagees, some main-topmen to take them off, and boys to carry them forward. Hands to rouse up and veer away the cable, to attend the stoppers, and light forward the messenger. The yeoman in the store-room--master-at-arms, and ship’s corporal on the berth-deck, and cook at the galley--tierces in each tier, or chain-locker, and the remainder of the men at the capstan.
=240.=--LOOSING AND FURLING.
Take the same number of men from each watch, and station them at the same rope, &c. The topmen are to man their respective yards--hands are to attend the boom-jiggers and tricing-lines--forecastle men to attend head-sails, trysail and foresail--main-yard men to look out for the main-sail--after-guard, for the spanker and main-trysail--for the main-topmast staysail, the fore-top-men--for the main-staysail, the gunner’s crew--hand stationed to sheet home, and hoist the topsails, and when coming to an anchor, the same men to man the clew-lines, bunt-lines, and weather-braces; and when loosing sails to dry, to man bowlines, or buntlines. In furling, the captains are to be in the bunt, in reefing, at the earings.
=241.=--STATIONING THE CREW FOR TACKING AND VEERING.
Station the men from the “watch bill”--have hands at the jib-boom end, to overhaul the jib-brails, and light over flying-jib sheets. On the bowsprit end to light over jib-pendants--hands on the bumkins, and in the chains, to overhaul tacks and sheets, and backstay-falls. On deck, at the wheel, spritsail-braces, jib-sheets, jib-brails, braces, bow-lines, clew-garnets, tacks and sheets, backstay-falls, lifts, trusses, spanker-sheets, guys, vangs, and topping-lifts. Aloft, to overhaul lifts and trusses--attend outriggers, and bear the backstays abaft and abreast--the mast-men to see the rigging clear, &c., &c.
For reefing.--The men are stationed as in furling, with the exception of the captains, who are stationed at the earings. When the yards are down, the men from the clew-lines and bunt-lines will haul out the reef-tackles.
=242.=--GETTING READY TO BEND SAILS.
It is customary to bend the light sails first, such as jibs, spankers, and trysails. Overhaul the jib and flying-jib stay, and halliards, in on the forecastle. Have the lashing spliced into the sheets ready for passing, and seizings to the hanks.
Overhaul down into the top the reef-tackles, and stop the blocks to the foremost shrouds, (or the end if single.) Overhaul the topsail-sheets from the yard-arm, and half-hitch them round a dead-eye, or foremost futtock-plate. Bunt-lines into the top, and stop them to the foremost shroud, above the topsail-yard, or to the tye-blocks--clew-lines into the top, and stop them to the eye of a shroud, and get the harbor-gaskets on the yards. A rope-yarn stop will be quite sufficient for all these purposes. Both burtons should be overhauled on deck before all.
Overhaul down the leech-lines, slab-lines, bunt-lines and clew-garnets, and stop them so as to prevent their flying about.
Take two selvagee-straps, put them round the neck of the boom-irons, and to them hook the double-block of a long jigger; the single one overhaul down, and hook to a ring or eye-bolt in the bulwarks, and the fall led through a leading block a-midships.
Lower down the gaffs--overhaul the brails, and have seizings of two-yarn spun-yarn ready, to secure them to the sails. If hoops, seizings should also be put on them, with both ends rove through the bight.
Topgallant yards should be got out of the rigging, and laid on deck out of the way, ready for bending the sails. Top-burtons overhauled down forward of all, for the topsails.
Note.--When the preparations above stated are made, it is intended to bend all the sails together.
=243.=--BENDING SAILS.
Call all hands to bend sails--get the courses, jib, topsails, and spanker, on deck. Open them out, and see that they are whole and complete; with the bowline-bridles, head and reef-earings, rope-bands, reef-points, sheet, clew-line, and reef-tackle blocks all in their proper places. Bight the topsails down in their respective places forward of the masts, with the clews out. Hook the lower block of the burton to the slings passed round the centre of the sail, and mouse the hook--reeve the fall through a snatch-block or leader, and keep the sail clear of the top as it goes up.
Overhaul the courses athwart the deck, shackle on the sheet, and also the tack, and clew-garnet blocks--reeve and bend the gear--stop the head of the sail to the bunt-lines, use the clew-jiggers for yard-ropes, hooking to the first reef-cringle, and stop the head earings to the block.
The end of the jib-stay having been brought in on the forecastle, reeve in the hanks, and stop the luff of the jib--hook on the halliards--reeve the downhauls--fit the brail-block and reeve the brails--hook on the sheet-blocks, or pendants, and reeve the sheets.
Lower the spanker-gaff--pass the throat and peak-earings, and lace the head to the gaff--seize on the brails, and reeve them and the outhauler. All being ready,
To man the gear.--First, man the top-burtons and sway the topsails clear of the deck--man the jib-halliards and downhaul--yard-ropes, clew-garnets, clew-lines, bunt-lines, reef-tackles, and gaff-halliards: at the word run out the jib, reeve and set up the stay, and seize the tack. Sway the topsails and courses up to the yards, where some hands are ready to receive them. Bend the gear and haul out; then take a turn with the earings--ride down the heads and pass the earings exactly; make fast the rope-bands, fit the leech-line block of the courses--seize on and reeve the leech-line. In the mean-time some hands are employed in seizing on the hoops of the trysails and spanker, as they go aloft. After the sails are all bent, it would be well to let them fall, to see that all the gear is bent clear, if so, clew up and furl the courses and topsails, and stow the jib, spanker and trysails.
The topgallant-sails, royals, and studding-sails are bent on deck.
Send the staysails into the tops, fit the jackstays and tricing-line blocks, seize the head of the luff; reeve the halliards, downhauls, and brails, bend the tacks and sheets; stow the staysails and haul all taut.
Note.--The staysails are not all allowed by the new Book of Allowances.
=244.=--BENDING SMALL SAILS.
By small sails are meant topgallant-sails, royals, flying-jib, studding-sails and staysails.
It is only in ships in good order where the men go through this manœuvre with smartness and method, after being exercised, and having become familiar with the ship and their stations.
First, all the yards, topgallant, royal, and studding-sail, should be got out of the rigging, and down on deck at the same time. Next, a proportion of hands should be sent to each sail, and all bent together, including flying-jib and staysails.
When the topgallant-sails, royals, and studding-sails, are all bent, they should be swayed into the rigging all together, and not one after another.
If the topgallant-yards happen to be across, the best plan, if circumstances will permit, is to bend all the other small sails first, except the flying-jib, and then to wait until the yards are sent down at sunset, to bend topgallant-sails and flying-jib.
Topgallant sails ought not to be bent while the yards are across, because the earings must then be hauled out, and passed over the lifts and braces, which precludes the possibility of unrigging the yard afterwards, without unbending the sail. Sometimes one of the two sets of topgallant-yards are appropriated in harbor to exercise, (sending up and down) while the other is kept below, with the sail bent, ready for crossing.
In bending topgallant-sails, the earings are passed the same as the topsail, and the sail seized to the jackstay, the yard-rope bent, the sails furled, and the yard got into the lower rigging. In furling, bring the leeches taut along the yard, and keep the clews in the bunt, then roll the sail up from the yard-arm, and pass the gaskets. Put the grommet over the yard-arm, man the yard-rope and sway the yard up and down; put the lower yard-arm into the snotter, over the foremost dead-eye; secure the upper yard-arm with a lanyard spliced round the shroud for the purpose; it is called a stop. The lizard should be singled, ready for going aloft, by reeving it once through the thimble on the yard-arm, and half-hitch round the yard-rope with the bight.
Trysails and storm-staysails should be bent at this time, if they are to be bent at all before leaving harbor.
Note.--Good rope-yarns answer very well for robins for topgallant-sails and royals. You are never at a loss for them in bending, and in unbending they are easily cut.
=245.=--BENDING A SPANKER.
Overhaul the brails well, and pass the sail through their bights. Haul the earing in the jaws out first; then the outer one. Splice the lacing into the outer eyelet-hole, lacing, and secure the lacing in the jaws. Bring the after-leech taut, along the gaff, and within a few inches of the blocks; mark the place for the throat-brails, also for the peak, opposite their respective cheeks on the gaff, and seize the brails to the leech-rope, by passing the seizing between the strands and round the brails. Eyelet-holes, worked close to the leech-rope, are far preferable for seizing the brails to.
The throat-earing is generally passed through an eye-bolt in the lower part of the jaws; but this never brings the sail close to the mast, and looks very bad. In preference, I would recommend having a score cut under the leather in the jaws, and the earing passed from the cringle through this score, and an eye-bolt on the upper side of the jaws, back through the cringle, and so on, until sufficient turns are taken to secure the sail. Large staples also are fitted to the jaws for the purpose, and keys on top, which answer better, and are more secure; also bending battens, instead of lacing round the gaff.
The outer earing is passed round a cleat on the upper side of the gaff, for the purpose. Take the earing from the cringle, pass it round outside the cleat, back through the cringle, and round the cleat, until sufficient turns are taken; then take several inner turns round the gaff and cringle; frap all the outer turns together, with the remaining part of the earing, to bring the parts close, and prevent any chance of their slipping over the cleat; take two half-hitches, expend, and seize the end.
To haul out this earing, and stretch the head of the sail well, use a small jigger; secure the double block to an eye-bolt in the end of the gaff, pass three turns of the earing, cat’s-paw the end, to which hook the other block, and pull the earing well out. I have frequently seen only one earing used; but would prefer two, as all inner turns, when much strain is on them, should have a separate earing. If a new sail, and requires much stretching, it is hauled well out before passing the earing, by hooking the inner block of the jigger to the cringle. Man the throat and peak-halliards, hoist the sail up gradually, seize the hoops, and reeve the lacing.
Note.--Trysails are bent in the same manner. Some fit them to haul in and out on the gaff, with hoops.
=246.=--FITTING SEA-GASKETS.
Gaskets are made with foxes, or small spun-yarn, and platted, like making sennit. The spun-yarn is middled over the bolt, and platted together, the bight forming the eye; sometimes a piece is platted for the eye, then all worked together; if not, the eye is served over afterwards. Sea-gaskets are long enough to have only two on each yard-arm, and to furl the sail over booms and all, when close-reefed, as there will be no more sail on the yard-arms than at any other time. They are secured round the jackstay, by reeving the end through the eye; sometimes round the yard.
=247.=--FITTING HARBOR-GASKETS.
In making, the eye is left large enough to take a small thimble, then platted broader in the centre, and tapered to a small end. The broad part should be long enough to make the sail in when furled with two reefs. They may be (to look well) about two-and-a-half inches wide, but this is quite a matter of taste. When put on the yard, the thimble is put underneath the jackstay from forward, and secured to it by a seizing passed round the neck of the gasket and jackstay, close to the thimble, and when the sail is ready for their being passed, it is taken up and rove through the thimble, and the sail tossed well up; the end then shoved underneath between the sail and gasket, once or twice. These always look better than any other, are easier passed and secured, and keep the sail well up. There is generally one harbor-gasket to every other seam.
=248.=--BUNT-GASKETS.
These are always, as to fitting, a matter of taste, but at present they are generally made of wove mat, two or three inches wide, with the two legs crossed, and an eye in each end. I have seen them made of rope, in the following manner:--Take the distance between the two quarter blocks, and measure it off on deck; drive a nail slightly into the deck at each end; then measure from the centre the height the bunt is intended to be, and there drive another nail. Take a piece of rope, from two and a half to three-inch, and measure off sufficient to go over these nails, forming a triangle; splice both ends together, and seize a thimble in each corner; put these thimbles over the nails again, and fill the space in diamonds or squares, according to fancy. The thimbles in each end are secured by the quarter-blocks to the jackstay, and also in the centre. It is not necessary to have thimbles in each end, as an eye will answer every purpose. A long sennit-gasket is middled and seized by the upper thimble; it should be sufficiently long to go round the mast, when the gasket is boused up, to secure it and the bunt well into the mast.
=249.=--HAMMOCK GIRTLINES.
Whips are rove at the yard-arms. If rope is not used on purpose for girtlines, the studding-sail halliards will answer; they are rove as follows:--A tail block is put on each side of the jib-boom end, and another on the spanker-boom. Overhaul down the whips, and bend them round the girtlines with a bowline knot, allowing room for their rendering through. Belay the foremost ends of the girtlines and trice up; haul upon the after-part, and get all taut. A man lays out on each yard-arm, and marks the girtline with rope-yarns where the tricing line, or a whip, should be bent; then lower away, cast off the bowline knot, and bend the tricing lines round the girtlines with a rolling hitch.
The whips are led from the lower yards to the lower caps, through blocks hooked to the bolts, and on deck. The lower end of the tricing-line is often bent to the girt-line as an inhaul or downhaul; but it is best to have them separate, as it prevents walking the hammocks up, and laying across the deck; and there are plenty of other ropes’ ends which will answer the same purpose.
When one girt-line of a side is not enough, others are rove inside in the same manner. The generality of ships reeve them inside of the lower rigging, as they are much easier got down, and the hammocks are not so likely to get dirty, or overboard.
=250.=--STOPPING ON HAMMOCKS.
Every man should be obliged to have three knittle-stops at the head, and two at the foot of his hammock. When stopping on, they should overlay at each side about two or three inches, and be stopped together at the foot--numbers up and in.
The forecastle-men should stop their hammocks on forward, next foretop-men, next maintop-men, next mizentop-men, next after-guard, idlers, and boys. Boatswain’s mates abreast of each hatchway.
=251.=--FURLING OR STOWING THE BUNT OF A SAIL.
When the sail is nearly rolled up, hook the bunt-jigger, bouse it well up, lower the buntlines, and shove the sail well into the skin, taking pains to keep the bunt square; pass and secure the bunt-gasket--take off the jigger--lower and square the studding-sail booms, and pass the heel-lashings.
=252.=--FURLING COURSES.
The leeches are handed in along the yard, then the sail rolled up snug, with the ends of the points passed in towards the bunt, to give the sail a gradual increase in that direction. Pass the gaskets, lower the booms, and, if required, stop up the gear.
Bowlines are stopped to the slings close down, and hauled taut on the forecastle.
The bowline-bridles of all sails, in furling, are laid with the toggle towards the bunt, and bridles taut along the yard.
When a sail is neatly furled, it appears neither above nor below the yard--earings well slewed up--sail smooth under the gaskets, bunt square, and a taut skin. The heels of the booms should be square, and every thing necessary completed, previous to squaring the yards.
=253.=--MAKING UP SAILS.
In making up a course, stretch the head of the sail well taut along the deck or loft; bring up to the head the belly-band, then the foot, leaving the clew-blocks out at each end; also the bowline-bridles, and roll taut up; pass the head-earing round the sail close inside the bolt-rope, and put a stop of good spun-yarn to every seam. The reef earings are made up in the sail.
In making up a topsail, stretch the head of the sail taut along; bring the second reef up to the head, and lay all the points and earings snugly along; then bring up the belly-band, and then the foot. The clew-blocks, bowline-bridles, reef-tackles, and toggles or span, should be left out, so that when the sail is sent aloft for bending, the sheets can be rove, reef-tackles and bowlines toggled, without loosing the sail, which will be found of great advantage when blowing fresh. Roll well up, stop with spun-yarn at each seam, and expend the head-earings round the ends of the sail.
Topgallant-sails are made up with the clews out, and bowline-bridles, (if wished,) but they are always bent to the yards on deck; so the neater, they can be made up the better.
Note.--The reef-earings of the topsails should be secured to the cringles, before rolling up; bowline-hitch the end of the first reef-earing to the head, second to the first, third to the second, and fourth to the third reef cringles; as there is sometimes much trouble in getting hold of an earing when it is not secured as above.
All spare sails should be tallied, before being stowed in the sail-room, as it will prevent all mistakes; but if a sail is properly stowed, and the master and sailmaker take a list when they are stowing, there never can be any difficulty in finding what may be wanted.
Royals are made up the same as topgallant-sails.
=254.=--TO MAKE UP A TOPMAST STUDDING-SAIL.
Stretch the sail taut along, and overhaul the downhaul through the thimble and block, and bight it along the whole length of the leech. Then roll up towards the inner leech, lay the sheets along the whole length of the sail, roll up over all, and stop the sail well up with spun-yarn or foxes. The earings are expended round the head of the sail when bent to the yard.
Note.--The topgallant studding-sail is also made up in the same manner.
=255.=--FURLING FORE AND AFT SAILS, (WITH CLOTHS OR COVERS.)
The jib is hauled close down, and the sea-gasket passed round it. The cloth is then placed over, and the stops tied. Eyelet-holes are made in each edge for the stops. Jib-sheets and halliards stopped, and hauled taut.
Furling Spanker.--It is also furled best with a cover; it can be furled in the two after cloths, the same as a jib, but it never looks so well, takes time, and in most instances has to be loosed two or three times before it gives satisfaction.
In furling with a cover, the sail is brailed close up, and the cover stopped round, commencing from the end of the gaff, and working in to the mast, and down on deck.
Trysails are stowed in the same manner as spankers.
The fore-topmast staysail is stowed as a jib, in the netting.[24]
Note.--Stowing fore and aft sails requires more handy-work than seamanship, the principal thing being to furl them in the smallest compass, and in the after cloths, as it brings the seams up and down. I have seen staysails admired for their neatness from the deck, when the greater part of the sails were lying loose in the top. This should be avoided as much as possible, as something should be sacrificed in appearance, to preserve a sail from injury. Taking a little trouble will get all the sail in the skin; and although it may be larger, it can be made to look neat.
Jibs require more pains taken in stowing, than any of the other fore and aft sails. There is no necessity of stowing them in their own cloths, when furling cloths are allowed. (See allowance).
[24] Canvass bottoms are used instead of nettings, for staysails.
=256.=--REEFING COURSES TO JACKSTAYS.
When this plan is adopted there is only one point requisite, and that on the fore side of the sail; some use two, but it is unnecessary.
Reeve the point through the eyelet-hole from the after side, the points being made with eyes. Through the eyes reeve a small sized rope; this is called the jack-line. Between every four eyelet-holes, stitch the rope well to the sail, on each yard-arm, leaving three points out. Take a piece of small rope, splice one end to the eyelet-hole in the head of the sail, reeve it through that left in the reef, and splice the other end into the same eyelet hole in the head, leaving about two feet slack. This will be found of much use in gathering the sail up for reefing--it is called a grab-rope, or reef-line.
=257.=--REEF-EARINGS
Are fitted the same as the head--an eyelet-hole is worked below the cringle, large enough to take the earing; through this put the earing, reeve the end through the long-eye, and haul it taut through. The earings are sometimes put in the cringles, but the cringle cannot be so well hauled up on the yard, and consequently will not be so well secured for carrying sail; and it not only puts more strain on the yard-arm points, but also injures the sail. They are also fitted on the bight, and passed on both ends; one end for the outer turns, and the other the inner turns.
To pass a reef-earing.--For the first, second, and third reef, take it from the sail, on the foreside of the yard, round the cleat for the purpose, through the cringle, round the yard and through the cringle, until three or four outer turns are passed; then reeve the bight through the cringle from aft forward--take a round turn in the cringle; then take the end from the latter under the yard up abaft over, and through the bight; then back over the yard on the foreside, through the cringle, from underneath the yard; slew the cringle well up, and leech off the sail, and pass sufficient turns to secure; then expend the end round the yard and half-hitch round all, or a clove-hitch to the lift.
A close reef-earing is passed the same way, but hauled out on the after side of the yard. Being hauled out abaft, it covers all the other reefs, and there being so much sail on the fore-side, it would never keep up.
In passing the outer turns for each reef, take two for the first; three for the second and third, and four for the fourth. For the inner turns, expend the earing, except your earings are fitted on the bight.
=258.=-BENDING STUDDING-SAILS.
All are bent to the yard alike, and the same precautions used as in other sails, keeping the rope next the yard. The earings are rove through the holes in the yard-arms, and cringle in the head of the sails; two or three outer turns are taken, and the earing nearly expended in inner turns, then frap the outer turns together with the end, and half-hitch, if the sail is laced to the yard--the lacing is spliced into one eyelet-hole, rove through the other, and passed round the yard.
They are sometimes bent by half-hitching the lacing, which plan keeps the sail up, and much closer to the yard. A round turn is also used, by being passed round the yard-arm and through the eyelet-hole twice, and from the latter through the next eyelet-hole, round the yard. They are then made up--the topmast studding-sail to the foremost shrouds of fore and main rigging; topgallant, in foremost part of the topmast rigging; and lower, on the booms. The topmast studding-sail is also sometimes kept on the booms, and tarpaulin covers fitted for them.
These sails are sometimes bent with long rope-bands, and unbent when taken in and stowed away, if dry.
In making up a topmast studding-sail, when bent, overhaul the downhaul the length of the luff or outer leech; then take the foot up to the yard, and place the tack block out. Bight the downhaul along the yard, also the sheets; roll the sail snugly up, and stop it with yarns.
Lower studding-sails are bent and made up in the same manner as topmast studding-sails, with the sheet in.
I have seen these sails when placed in the rigging ready for setting, with the sheets and downhaul left out and stopped to the yards; the tack stopped from the lower yard, up and down the foremost shroud and bent to the sail. This was done with the idea that the sail could be set much quicker; but it was found that the sail on the opposite side (which was set in the general way), was set with less trouble, and in less time. There will be plenty of time to bend the tack and halliards (when the order is given to get ready), while getting burtons up, jiggers on topsail-lift, weather-braces taut, and rigging the booms out.
Note.--The topgallant studding-sail tack is generally kept bent, and slacked when bracing the yards up.
It has frequently occurred to me, when I have heard the order from the quarter-deck, in the event of setting studding-sails, “to rig out and hoist away;” how can it be possible to rig out the fore-topmast studding-sail booms, when probably there may be fifty men clapped on the lower studding-sail halliards, hauling the booms in, and seldom more than six or eight men at the most, on the in-and-out jigger, trying to get the boom out.
I should recommend to rig-out and secure first, then hoist away.
=259.=--PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING THE WHARF AND HAULING OUT IN THE STREAM.
To haul off and moor ship.--Before hauling off, all the spare spars should be hoisted in and secured, boat’s chocks placed, all the stores, provisions, and water got on board; it would be also well to see that there is a sufficient quantity of brooms, bath-brick for cleaning bright-work, lime and size for whitewash, and everything that is allowed and requisite for the ship. The complement of men from the receiving ship should be got on board, and the boats provided with crews, oars, and sails. When everything necessary is completed, make preparations for hauling off. Get up kedges and hawsers ready for instant service; have the ends of the hawsers pointed up each hatchway, ready for handing out if wanted. Run out a kedge, and drop it where the first, or weather-anchor is to be planted; have lines from the ship to the shore--single the fasts--hang over fenders and outriggers--man the hawser, cast off the fasts, and warp off; checking her as may be necessary by the lines. When warped out to the kedge, run it up to the bows, and let go the weather anchor; veer as fast as she will take it, assisting her in going astern by the mizen-topsail, if necessary. If to shoot her to either side, use the helm, jib, or spanker, and in case there is no wind, use kedges and hawsers.
When a double scope is out, stopper the cable, and let go the second anchor--furl the mizen-topsail--bring-to on the weather cable, and heave in to the moorings; moor a little taut, to allow for veering. If a hemp-cable, clap on the service, and veer to the hawse-hole.
=260.=--CARRYING OUT AN ANCHOR WITH A BOAT.
Hang the anchor to the stern of the boat by good stoppers, and have the buoy and buoy-rope attached to it; pass the end of the cable or hawser out through the hawse-hole, and coil away enough of it in the bows of the boat, to reach the bottom. Now capsize the coil in the stern sheets, and then the end will be uppermost; bend on to the anchor. There should also be a sufficient length of the hawser coiled away in the boat to reach the place destined for the anchor. When in the right place, heave over the buoy, and see that the buoy-rope is clear--stand clear of the cable, and slip the stoppers. In case of making a guess-warp, vice versa.
=261.=--MARKING THE LEAD-LINE.
At two fathoms, two strips of leather; at three fathoms, three strips of leather; at five fathoms, a white rag; at seven fathoms, a red rag; at ten fathoms, a piece of leather with a hole in it; at thirteen, the same as three; at fifteen, the same as five; at seventeen, the same as seven; at twenty fathoms, two knots.
Deep-sea lead-lines are marked the same, as far as twenty fathoms, then add one knot for every ten fathoms, and a strip of leather for every five fathoms.
=262.=--HEAVING THE LEAD
A hole is made in the upper part of the lead, a piece of rope rove through it, and both ends spliced together;[25] an eye is spliced in the end of the line, put through this strap, the lead shoved through the bight, and hauled taut.
Breast ropes are fitted in the chains, for the men to lean against when heaving the lead. They are made as sword-mats, tapered at each end, and secured to two shrouds, with seizings passed round them, and through the eyes in each.
Heaving the lead is generally performed by a man who stands in the main chains to windward. Having the line all ready to run out, without interruption, he holds it at a distance of nearly a fathom from the lead, and having swung it backwards and forwards three or four times, in order to acquire a greater velocity with the swing, he then swings it over his head, and thence as far forward as is necessary; so that by the lead sinking whilst the ship advances, the line may be almost perpendicular when it reaches the bottom. The person sounding then proclaims the depth of water, in a kind of singing manner. Thus: if the mark of five fathoms is close to the surface of the water, he sings out, “by the mark 5!” and, as there are no marks at 4, 6, 8, &c., he estimates those numbers, and sings, “by the deep 4!” &c. If he considers it to be a quarter, or a half, more than any particular number, he sings out, “and a quarter 5!” “and a half 4!” &c. If he conceives the depth to be three quarters more than a particular number, he calls it a quarter less than the next; thus, at four fathoms and three-quarters, he calls, “a quarter less 5!” and so on, according to the depth of the water.
[25] A leather becket may be used for light leads, instead of a rope strap.
=263.=--MARKING A LOG-LINE.
Allow twelve fathoms for stray line, where stick in a white rag; then at every forty-seven feet and six-tenths, mark the line as follows, viz.: at one, one leather; at two, two knots; at three, three knots; and also having a mark at every half-knot. The glasses should be proved with a good watch, having a second-hand.
The principle of the log-line is, that a knot is the same part of a sea-mile, that half-a-minute is of an hour; therefore the length of a knot should be one-hundred-and-twentieth the length of a sea mile, or fifty-one feet; but as it is more convenient to have the knot divided into eight parts, of six feet each, the proportional reduction is necessary in the glass. Therefore as 51 feet : 30 seconds :: 48 feet : 28, 4.17 seconds; but as the fraction can be more easily allowed in the line than the glass, another proportion is necessary, viz., as 28, 4.17 seconds : 48 feet :: 28 seconds to 47.6 feet, or the length of a knot.
Note.--Log-lines are kept on reels for the purpose.
The length of the stray-line is regulated by the size of the ship.
=264.=--GETTING READY FOR SEA.
Observe and note the exact line of flotation. See that all the rigging is properly up, alow and aloft. See that the preventer-gear is on, as well as breast-ropes for leadsmen, and leads and lines in the chains. If requisite, grease the masts, jib and staysail-stays, lifts and trusses, and reef-pendants--sheet-anchor stowed--guns secured--boats hoisted in and secured. Care should be taken that the harness-casks are lashed--chests and tables properly cleated, and binnacles secured. Let the armorer examine the slip-stoppers, and see that they are oiled, and in proper condition--get the swinging-booms fore and aft--awnings below, and awning ridge-ropes down--down jack-staff--see that the tiller-ropes are all clear, and that the tiller moves freely; also that the relieving-tackles and spare tiller-ropes are at hand.
Cross topgallant yards, bend the gear; take the covers off the jibs, staysail, spanker, and trysails, and coil every rope down clear, for running--have the studding-sails stopped, ready for going aloft, and the royal-halliards down on the weather side. Cat and fish overhauled down. Timenoguys in their respective places. Life-buoys in order. Accommodation-ladder unshipped and stowed away. Pendants and ladders taken off the swinging-booms--head-cranes unshipped--chafing-gear on its respective places. It would also be well to see that there is a sufficiency of sand on board.
=265.=--CLEAR HAWSE.
Call all hands to “clear hawse.” Lash a stout single-block to the bowsprit, through which reeve the clear hawse-pendant; haul the launch under the bows, or if there is too much sea on, or she is not out, send a hand down in a bowline, and hook the pendant to the riding-cable, below the turn; bouse them up clear of the water, after which pass a stout lashing round both cables.
If there should be a heavy sea on, or the wind flawey and variable, it would be well to pass the end of a hawser out of the hawse-hole, and hitch it to the cable,[26] to relieve the lashing. Reeve ropes through blocks on each side of the bowsprit end, for bow-lines, and pass them in at the hawse-hole, so as to take out an elbow; for instance--suppose the starboard was the clearing cable, take the larboard bow-line down under the cable, up into the starboard hawse-hole, and the starboard one over to the larboard side of the cable; then follow the lead of the larboard bow-line, bend on several fathoms inside, and stop along to the hawse-hole; draw the splice, or unshackle, bend on the hawse-rope, off-stoppers, and run out; hang the bights to the bowsprit (if hemp-cable), with slip-ropes, and send in the bow-lines again, the same way as before. When the end is out, “cast off,” dip it fair, and bend on again to the cable; rouse in, slack down the slip-ropes, and splice or shackle the cable; haul it taut with a deck-tackle, and bitt, and stopper as before. Cast off the hawser, unlash the cable, unreeve the clear hawse-pendant, unlash the block from the bowsprit end, and clear up the deck.
Note.--If there is a round turn and an elbow in the hawse after rousing the cable, repeat the operation as before; it is always well to prevent confusion, by taking out one elbow at a time. A cross, is when the cables lay across each other, or when the ship has swung foul once; an elbow is two crosses, and a round turn is three crosses; a round turn and elbow is five crosses. It can readily be seen thus, in clearing hawse with a round turn, a cross will be left in the cables.
The anchor is fouled in the very operation of letting it go; the weight of the chain-cable causing the running out part to fall over and foul the stock. To avoid this, some officers pursue the practice of “letting go” the anchor with the cable bitted, which plan is strongly recommended.
From the weight of the chain-cable, compared with that of the hempen, the former is less liable than the latter to foul the anchor; but no speculation should induce an officer to depart from that practice which can alone ensure a clear anchor.
[26] See clear hawse-shackle and pendant.
=266.=--WEIGHING AN ANCHOR WITH THE LAUNCH.
This may be done by under-running, when the ship has slipped the cable, or weighing by the buoy-rope, when the anchor is lying in too shoal water for the ship to be hove up to it.
Ship the roller on the stern of the launch, have strong tackles with a jigger also, and some good rope for stoppers. Get the end of the cable over the roller; pass a strap round it, to which hook the double block of the tackle, and the single one to a bolt in the bows; man the fall, and as the cable comes in, French-flake it along the thwarts; when the tackle comes two blocks, “stopper and fleet;” when the cable is “up and down,” clap the jigger on the fall of the tackle, and heave the boat’s stern well down in the water, and stopper securely. Send all the men in the bows of the boat; jump the boat and break the anchor out of the ground; then man the fall again, off stopper, and heave up; when the ring of the anchor is above water, pass a short ring-stopper, haul the buoy on board, and bring the boat to the ship; when alongside, hook the cat, and cat the anchor. Get the end of the cable unclinched, passed into the hawse, and the remainder hauled out of the launch. (If chain-cable, unshackle.)
=267.=--WEIGHING AN ANCHOR WITH A BUOY-ROPE.
Get the buoy-rope over the roller, clap on a tackle, and weigh the anchor as before. When it is secured, man the capstan, heave the launch in under the bows, and cat the anchor.
Anchors are generally weighed with the buoy-rope when the cable has parted, and the end cannot be grappled; when this is the case, the anchor may be weighed with launch, brought under the bows and catted, and the cable unclinched and hove in; or the ship might be warped over the buoy, and the cat-fall taken to the buoy-rope.
=268.=--BOATING AN ANCHOR.
Place the flukes perpendicularly over the stern, and the stock a-thwart-ships in the stem sheets, resting horizontally upon a loose thwart, placed there previously for the purpose, and steady all by one or two lashings.
In letting go, nothing more is required than to cant the anchor over the quarter, by means of the thwart, taking care previously that the buoy, buoy-rope, and cable, be perfectly clear.
Light anchors should be boated contrary to this, i. e., flukes inboard, and stock out.
=269.=--TAKING IN A LAUNCH.
Brace and secure the yards the same as when getting up the anchors, and also rig the same purchases; place the chocks, pass everything out of the launch, and hook the purchases to spans; have a few hands in the boat to keep her clear of the ship’s side. Man the yard tackle falls; have some hands to take in the slack of the stay fall; “walk away;” when the boat leaves the water, take out the plug. When high enough to clear the waist anchor stock, haul over on the main stay, easing away the fore and main yards; when the stem is over the deck, haul over the fore stay, lower, and place her in the chocks.
The other boats may be got on board by the same purchases. The launch is stowed on the larboard side; the first cutter on the starboard side;[27] the second cutter, inside the launch, and the third cutter inside the first. When all are in, unrig the purchases, square the yards, and set up the gripes.
The quarter and stern boats are hoisted up to their davits, and secured to them by stoppers, and the gripes set up.
[27] i. e., if the ship be a frigate or larger. Single-deck ships have but one nest of boats.
=270.=--TAKING IN BOATS BOTH SIDES AT ONCE.
The yards are kept square, and secured on both sides by the lifts, burtons, and quarter lifts. Use the winding and stay tackles for the heaviest boats, and the yard tackles for the lightest ones; the topsail halliards forward, and the main pendant tackle aft, acting as stays to bring them on board. It may be necessary to come up the forward backstays, as they would be likely to interfere with the bows of the boats; after which proceed as before.
Taking in a boat at sea.--Back the main-topsail, get the boat to leeward, secure the lower yards as before directed, and hoist her in. The boat coming in to leeward, tackles will be necessary to get her to windward sufficiently to lower away.
When before the wind, a boat might be got in by securing the yards as before, and taking a hawser from aft to the stern of the boat, to keep her from sending or pitching forward when leaving the water, and thereby endangering the yards.
Note.--Some of our large vessels have two sets of yard and stay tackles, for the purpose of taking in boats both sides at once; but the above mentioned gear will answer all purposes in any case of emergency, where the manœuvre is not considered as exercising.
Part IV
=271.=--GETTING UNDER-WEIGH.
See that the hawse is clear; overhaul a range of the weather cable--get up nippers--pass the messenger--knock up the stanchions--ship the gratings--ship, and swifter-in the capstan bars--rig the fish-davit--overhaul cat and fish; and call “all hands unmoor ship.”
When the cable grows with the angle of the main-stay, the ship is said to ride at a “long stay;” when it grows with the angle of the fore-stay, the ship is said to be at a “short-stay.” When perpendicular, the phrase is “up and down.” From one or other of the two last mentioned positions, sail is generally made in getting under-weigh.
If from the nature of the ground, or strength of the wind, there should be any probability of dragging the anchor, sail is generally made from a “short stay.” In such a case, particular attention ought to be paid that the head yards be not braced too sharp a-box; for the object being to cant the ship with the least possible sternway, the sooner the head sails lift or fill the better. The jibs are hoisted the instant they will take. If, after all, the ship drags her anchor, you can pall the capstan--stopper over all, brace round the head yards, and force her a-head by the sails, as far as may be necessary; then back the head yards, lay-to, and get the anchor up.
If there should be so much wind and sea, as to make it a matter of difficulty to get the anchor, but plenty of sea-room, brace the yards a-box, according to the tack you wish to go upon, and get the anchor up and secured before making sail. In moderate weather, and ordinary circumstances, sail is generally made when the cable is “up and down.” Sometimes a stern-board is necessary, with the anchor dragging on the ground; at other times, a tack must be made in that position.
If riding by the starboard cable, and no impediment to port, it will be the most eligible method, to cast her on the starboard tack, as the cable will then be clear of the cutwater, and the ship being to leeward of the anchor, it can be more easily catted and fished. If there should be much sea on, this would be the best plan.
Having determined to cast on the starboard tack, overhaul the lifts, trusses, and backstay-falls. The fore-topsail being put aback, by the starboard braces; the main and mizen by the wind, with larboard after braces, heaving around briskly, and before breaking ground, give her a shear with the starboard helm; when up, hoist the jib, keeping the helm a-starboard, until the stern-board exceeds the velocity of the tide, when shift it, grapple the buoy, and cat the anchor. When she has fallen off, so as to fill the after sails, let flow the jib-sheet, haul out the spanker, set top-gallant sails and courses, and trim the yards and sails properly.
To cast off on the larboard tack, put the helm a-port, and brace the yards the contrary way.
=272.=--WHEN THE MESSENGER STRANDS, OR IS LIKELY TO PART.
If the messenger is likely to part, from the great strain upon it, stopper immediately, and either pass a new one, or reeve a viol purchase, assisting it with the cat-fall. Lash the viol block to the cable near the hawse-hole; clinch one end of the hawser to the main-mast, snatch the bite in the block, and take the other end to the capstan. To assist the viol, pass a strap round the cable, close down to the water, to which hook the cat-fall, and heave up on both purchases.
If the messenger should strand, stopper immediately, cut it, and then knot or splice it.
=273.=--TO GET UNDER-WEIGH AND STAND BEFORE THE WIND.
Make all preparations for getting under-weigh, heave-in, and make sail as before. Lay the main and mizen topsails square aback; the fore one sharp aback, according to the side it is intended to cast--heave-in, cant her the right way with the helm before tripping, and as soon as the velocity of the stern-board is greater than that of the tide, shift the helm, grapple the buoy, run up the jib as soon as it will take, and haul aft the weather-sheet. While falling off, cat and fish the anchor; as she gathers head-way, shift the helm; when before the wind, right it--square the head yards, and brail up the jib--set topgallant sails, royals, and foresail--haul taut the lifts, trusses, backstay-falls, and if necessary, set the studding-sails.
=274.=--IN GETTING UNDER-WEIGH, TO BACK ASTERN AND AVOID DANGER.
Make all preparations as before. If required to cast on the starboard tack, sheer her with the starboard helm; to bring the wind on the starboard bow, brace the yards aback, about half-way up with the larboard braces; haul out the spanker and keep the boom nearly amid-ships. Heave up briskly, grapple the buoy, and as soon as the anchor is up, put the helm hard a-weather to keep her to--cat and fish the anchor. Having made sufficient stern-board, shift the helm, brace the after yards, ease off the spanker sheet, and run up the jib. When full aft, brace up the head yards, and as she gathers headway, right the helm and make sail. To cast on the larboard tack, sheer her with the port helm, brace all sharp aback, and proceed as before.
=275.=--GETTING UNDER-WEIGH--A SHOAL ON EACH BEAM.
It becomes necessary to proceed to sea, and is impossible to weather either of those a-beam; but there is just room to pass between a shoal astern, and either of those a-beam, with the wind blowing fresh.
Pass the stream cable out of one of the quarter ports; bend on one end to the cable, and secure the other to the topsail sheet-bitts; draw the splice[28] of the cable, bend a slip-buoy to it, and heave it overboard. See the stoppers clear for slipping; stop the topsails to the yards with spun-yarn, casting off the gaskets. Loose the courses, jib, and spanker--mast-head the topsail-yards--man the jib-halliards--sheer her from the cable with the helm--slip and run up the jib--keep fast the stream-cable, and let her swing round. When she heads for the passage, slip the stream-cable, right the helm, sheet home the topsails, set the courses, and other sails if necessary; then stand through the passage.
[28] If chain cable, unshackle.
=276.=--GETTING UNDER-WEIGH IN A NARROW CHANNEL.
At anchor in a narrow channel, riding to a strong leeward tide, and blowing fresh; a ship astern, and also one on each quarter, so near that there is not room to wear, for casting; it is necessary to put to sea, and to do so a passage must be effected between the two ships.
Make all preparations for getting under-weigh, and heave-in as described before. Loose the topsails; if riding by the star-board cable, give her a rank sheer with the starboard helm; set up the starboard backstays, and bear aft the larboard ones; overhaul lifts and trusses; haul out the spanker, and get the boom over on the larboard quarter; lead along the main tack and sheet; run up the jib, and haul aft the weather sheet; “Heave round cheerily;” run the anchor up, grapple the buoy, and as soon as she fills, meet her with the helm; board the main tack to catch her; trim the jib and spanker sheets, set the foresail, and trim sharp; haul taut the bowlines; stand on as far as may be necessary.
Note.--A good deal of uncertainty attends this manœuvre; if there is room, it would be the best plan to lay the yards aback. It is confidently asserted by old experienced seamen, that the above method is perfectly practicable.
=277.=--HEAD TO WIND, CAST ON STARBOARD TACK.
Everything having been previously prepared, heave in and make sail as before. Sheer her with a starboard helm; brace the head yards sharp up with the starboard braces, and counter brace the after ones; haul out the spanker, and get the boom on the larboard quarter; heave in, and up anchor; up jib as soon as it will take; and when the stern-board exceeds the velocity of the tide, shift the helm. When the after sails are full, trim the spanker, let flow the jib sheet, cat and fish the anchor, haul aft the jib sheet, brace round the head-yards, and make sail.
=278.=--WINDWARD TIDE--GET UNDER-WEIGH AND STAND BEFORE THE WIND.
Make all preparation for getting under-weigh, heave in, loose jib, up anchor, grapple the buoy, run up the jib, cat and fish the anchor, and make sail with expedition.
If it is necessary to have the ship under greater command, as might be the case in a narrow channel, or crowded harbor, it would be better to proceed as follows:--
Heave in to a “short stay,” loose the courses, topsails, jib and spanker. If riding by the starboard cable, sheer her with the starboard helm, and bring the wind on the larboard quarter; brace the yards to, by the larboard braces, and keep them shivering by the helm. “Heave up;” fill the after yards, and square the head ones; haul aft jib sheet on starboard tack; cat and fish the anchor; up helm; fill the head yards, shiver the after ones, get her before the wind, and make sail.
=279.=--TO GET UNDER-WEIGH, AND STAND OUT ON A WIND.
Make all preparations--commence heaving in; loose jib and spanker; top up and bear over the boom on the right quarter, and the helm to the side which it is intended to cast; “heave up;” get the buoy; haul out on the spanker as soon as it will take. When the wind gets abeam, run up the jib, and meet her with the helm; cat and fish the anchor; loose, sheet home, and hoist the topsails, brace up, bring by and make sail.
=280.=--RIDING HEAD TO TIDE, WIND ON THE STARBOARD QUARTER, TO GET UNDER-WEIGH ON THE STARBOARD TACK.
Make all preparations, heave short, loose sails, sheet home and hoist the topsails, bracing them to with the starboard braces; keep them shivering, by the assistance of the topsails and helm,--“heave round,”--break ground--put the helm a-starboard--brace full the head yards--run up the jib, and let her pay round to port; heave up the anchor, and grapple the buoy. Haul out the spanker as soon as it will take--shift over the head sheets, and square the head yards--trim aft the jib-sheet, and meet her with the helm. Cat and fish the anchor, and make sail as necessary.
=281.=--GETTING UNDER-WEIGH--WIND ACROSS THE TIDE.
In getting under-weigh, say ebb-tide, make all preparations, loose, sheet home, and hoist the topsails; brace up the fore and mizen topsails, and lay the main yard to the mast. Give her a spoke or two of the lee wheel, so as to take the main-topsail well aback. “Heave up,” cat and fish the anchor, and grapple the buoy; at the same time, set the jib and spanker--fill the main yard, stand on to a convenient place, and then tack or veer.
The evolution is determined by the circumstance of there being more room to windward or to leeward.
Flood-Tide.--Proceed as before, until the anchor is catted and fished; then hoist the jib, haul out the spanker, fill the main-topsail, and stand out, making whatever sail may be judged necessary.
=282.=--TO BACK AND FILL IN A TIDE-WAY.
This manœuvre is only executed when a ship is to proceed up or down a rapid river against the wind, which is supposed to be light, and may be done by two methods, viz., driving before the wind, or broadside to it. When the channel is broad enough, the latter method is preferable, as the ship will be more under the command of her helm.
=283.=--DRIVING BEFORE THE WIND.
This is only done in a very narrow channel. Heave up the anchor, and get her before the wind, with just sail enough to keep her so. Suppose her under topsails, and as she drops with the tide, it becomes necessary for her to remain stationary, to allow a ship to pass her stern,--set topgallant-sails, and if required to shoot ahead, drop the foresail. If to avoid a rock, or ship astern, put the helm up or down--haul out the spanker--brace up, and haul aft the jib-sheet, as she comes to; shoot across until clear of danger, when put the helm up, brail up the spanker, shiver the after yards, and when before the wind, brail up the jib. If in standing across, she should get too near the shore--get her on the other tack, by wearing or box-hauling.
=284.=--DRIVING BROADSIDE-TO.
Get under-weigh, and bring her by the wind under the jib, topsails, and spanker; shiver the topsails; when filled, stand on to the middle of the channel; brail up the jib and spanker, and let her drift in this situation until she falls off, which she will soon do, owing to her greater immersion aft than forward, which will drift her stern farther to windward. Haul out the spanker, and if this is insufficient, back the mizen-topsail; if she still falls off, back the main also, both square aback, and if she should get a stern-board, put the helm hard a-weather; should she come-to again, shiver the topsails, and brail up the spanker, letting her drift as before.
=285.=--SECURING THE SHIP FOR SEA.
Take the departure, give the course, and make sail. Beat to quarters--examine the magazine--load, shot, and secure the guns--see that all the gear of the guns is ready for service, and secured. Fill the shot-boxes, rack, and wad-nets--get the anchors on the bows, and lash them--unbend the cable and buoy-ropes; if clean and dry, pay them below; also the messenger, hawsers, stoppers and nippers, and cable-mats, put in the buckles--unreeve, cat and fish, and coil them away below. Get chafing-mats on the yards and rigging--see the booms and boats secured, pumps in good order, and the gratings and tarpaulins ready for putting on. Overhaul the storm-staysail gear, see everything ready for service, and stow it below again.
=286.=--STOWING THE ANCHORS FOR SEA.
The anchors being catted and fished, clap a stout tackle on them and cat-head stoppers; pass a good lashing through the ring and over the cat-head--expend the stopper in the same way. Hook the pendant-tackle to a strap around the shank--weigh the crown, and bouse the fluke into the bill-port by a thwartship tackle; having another tackle clapt on the end of the anchor-stock which is uppermost, getting it as close to the side as the stock will permit; pass stout shank-lashings also around the stock and cat-head. Unbend the cable and buoy-rope.
Note.--The waist-anchors are securely stowed when they are first got on board. Some ships use preventer lashings and jumpers in bad weather, when the ship is lurching in a heavy sea, or when liable to ship seas in the waist.
=287.=--SETTING TOPGALLANT SAILS--BLOWING FRESH.
Point the yards to the wind, and loose the sails; sheet home first to leeward, and then to windward--having a hand to leeward to light the foot over the topmast stay; hoist away, trim the yards, and haul taut the bow-lines.
Note.--In setting topgallant sails over single-reefed topsails, see that the sheets are out square alike.
=288.=--SETTING COURSES.
Moderate weather.--Man the fore and main-tacks and sheets, attend the rigging--have hands on the lower yards to overhaul it--haul aboard--check the top bow-lines, weather lower lifts, and a little of the lee-main-brace--avast the sheets; get the tacks close down, and then haul aft the sheets--haul taut the main-brace, lifts, trusses, and bowlines.
Blowing fresh.--Man well the sheets, overhaul the leech-lines and lee-bunt-lines; ease down the lee-clew-garnet, slack top bowlines, lower lifts, and lee-main-braces, until the tacks are down; then haul aft the sheets, haul taut the lee-main-brace, weather lifts and bow-lines, and, if necessary, hook and haul taut the rolling-tackle, to ease the trusses.
=289.=--SETTING THE SPANKER.
Top-up the boom, overhaul lee-topping-lifts, attend the sheets and weather-guy; haul over the lee-guy, and trim the boom--man the outhaul and attend the brails and vangs--let go the brails, haul out and steady the gaff by the vangs.
Note.--The weather-vang should never be hauled, or boused too taut, as it may be the means of carrying away the gaff, especially when using trysails as storm-sails.
=290.=--SETTING THE JIB.
Cant the spritsail-yard to steady the boom; man the halliards and sheet--see the downhaul and brails clear, take in the slack of the sheet to steady the sail; “hoist away;” and as the sail goes up, ease off the sheet--when taut up, haul aft the sheet.
=291.=--SETTING LOWER STUDDING-SAILS.
When the boom is out or a-thwartships, and trimmed with the fore yard, the outer halliards and outhauler are to be well manned, taking in the slack of the inner halliards, as the sail goes over the gunwale, and ultimately reaches its destined height. In running away with the lower halliards, care must be taken that the yard be not brought up with a jerk, against the topmast studding-sail boom; by this sudden jerk booms are liable to be sprung.
=292.=--SHIFTING A COURSE AT SEA.
Moderate weather.--In shifting a course at sea, with the watch, and with time to prepare everything for a smart and pretty evolution--get the spare sail up from below, and first of all stretched across the deck. Then, the course being set, stopper the (tack and sheet) clews, and unbend tacks, sheets, clew-garnets, and leech-lines, bending them forthwith to the spare sail; and, when done, untoggle the bowlines, and send the hands aloft--trice up, lay out, cast off robins and earings, and make the two midship robins fast to the bunt-lines--ease in the earings together, and make them also fast to the buntlines a-midships. Lower the sail by the bunt-lines, and gather it in by hand. Unbend the bunt-lines, bend them to the spare sail, and take out the yard-ropes.
Divide the watch to the yard-ropes, bunt-lines and clew-garnets, and haul taut; haul out and up all together--hands aloft, bring-to, and when brought-to, haul on board.
Blowing fresh.--First haul the sail up and furl it; then proceed to make fast the midship robins and earings (when cast off) to the bunt-lines, and to lower the sail down by the clew-garnets, as well as buntlines.
Note.--In this case the weather-tack and sheet is of much use in hauling the sail in as it comes down.
=293.=--TAKING IN A COURSE IN A GALE OF WIND.
Steady the yard as securely as possible, man the clew-garnets, bunt-lines, and leech-lines; ease away the tack and bow-line--haul up to windward, ease off the sheet, haul up, get the sail close to the yard, and furl it.
It is a common practice in clewing-up a course, to let go the bowline upon starting the tack. Neither the tack nor the bow-line should be let go, but each eased off handsomely by hand. By the adoption of this plan, the sail will bag less to leeward, and the weather-clew can be hauled up with greater ease; but both buntlines should be well manned, and even better manned, than the weather clew-garnet. When the latter gear is well up, walk away with the clew-garnet, easing steadily the sheet. But all these precautions will be of little avail, unless there be a good preventer-brace upon the lower yard; or else the yard tackle be hooked to act as such, and brought sufficiently aft to prevent the tackle bringing too great a strain in an up-and-down position upon the upper yard-arms.
=294.=--TAKING IN A TOPSAIL IN A GALE OF WIND.
Steady well the topsail and lower yards, rounding in the weather topsail brace as much as possible. Man the clewlines and buntlines; attend the sheets and bowlines; clew up the lee-sheet, and haul up the buntline. If to save the yard, haul up to leeward first, point the yard to the wind, and steady it again; lay out and furl the sail.
There appears to be still a dispute among seamen as to the preferable method of effecting this service.
When the mast is not considered in danger, and the object be to save the sail, or to ease the ship, the weather clew may be first lifted. But before starting the weather sheet, it would be well to ease first a few feet of the lee-sheet, in order to lessen the labor of rounding in the weather brace. So soon as the lee-sheet be sufficiently eased to admit of the yard coming in with the weather brace, and both buntlines be as well manned as the weather clewline, the weather sheet may be then eased off, and the weather clewline hauled up, with every prospect of saving the sail.
If there be plenty of sea room, and the ship can be kept away, some officers recommend the practice of bringing the wind abaft the beam, and then hauling up the lee-clewline first--taking the precaution to have both buntlines well manned. When this operation is effected, the weather clewline may be hauled up, rounding the brace in, as the ship is again gradually brought to the wind. It will require particular attention to the helm when hauling up the weather clewline, though with judicious management, the helm alone is sufficient to spill the sail.
=295.=--TAKING IN TOP-GALLANT SAILS.
Man the topgallant clewlines; lay aloft, and stand by to furl the sail; attend the braces, bowlines, sheets, and halliards; round in the weather braces, ease away the lee-sheet and halliards; “lower away;” ease away the weather sheet, clew up, haul up the buntlines; steady the yard, lay out and furl the sail.
=296.=--TAKING IN A SPANKER.
Have the brails and weather vang well manned; attend the outhaul and lee vang; ease away the outhaul; haul over on the weather vang; brail up to leeward; ease off the sheet; haul taut the weather brails; pass the foot gaskets; steady the gaff, and crutch the boom.
=297.=--SETTING A CLOSE-REEFED TOPSAIL.
Point the yard to the wind, and brace the lower yard a little sharper than the topsail yard. Man the sheets, attend the buntlines, and loose the sail; overhaul the lee-buntline, ease down the lee-clewlines, and haul home the lee-sheet; ease off the weather buntline; at the same time slack down the weather clewline, and haul home the weather sheet. Hoist the yard up clear of the cap; brace up, and haul the bowline; steady the lower and topsail yards with the braces and rolling-tackles.
Note.--It must be remembered that a close reefed topsail will not sheet close home, as the yard is to hoist clear of the cap.
=298.=--A CLOSE-REEFED TOPSAIL SPLITS.
Clew up the sail and steady the yard; cast off some of the rope-bands, so as to pass stops around the sail to secure it. Unbend the sheets, bowlines, and lee-buntlines; unreeve lee-clewline and reef-tackle; bend the weather buntline round the sail, and make the lee-earing fast to the buntline; hook a burton to a strap round the sail, cast off all the rope-bands, and lower away; ease away the weather earing and lower the sail on deck. Stretch along the new sail, overhaul it, then reef the sail at the foot, commencing at the close reef, and taking in each of the three lower reefs separately; then bight it down, and send it aloft, as described before, observing to use the burtons before all. Reeve and bend the gear, stopping the head of the sail to the buntlines; have yard-jiggers hooked to bring the sail to the yard--pass the earings and rope-bands, in the same manner; bring the first reef to the yard, cast out the other reef, haul up the sail; then bring the reefs to the yard alternately, after which set the sail as before.
=299.=--A JIB SPLITS.
Mind the weather helm, haul the sail down, and hoist the fore-topmast-staysail. Hitch the downhaul around the body of the sail, and also pass stops around it--take the end of a rope from the forecastle, and bend it on to haul in by. Turn out the jib-stays, bend a line on to the end and unreeve it--haul taut the halliards--ease off the downhaul, and haul in. Get up, and overhaul the spare sails; seize on the sheet, bend the halliards and downhaul--stop the sail, and haul out by the downhaul and halliards--reeve the jib-stay, turn it in, and set it up; pass the tack-lashings, reeve the brails, set the jib, and haul down the staysail.
=300.=--TO WEAR SHIP UNDER CLOSE-REEFED MAIN-TOPSAIL AND STORM-STAYSAILS.
Call all hands “wear ship,” and station them; have lifts, trusses, and rolling-tackles attended, so the yard and topmast may be well supported in the heavy rolling which they are likely to experience. Haul down the mizen storm-staysail, and when she falls off, up helm; ease off the main storm-staysail sheet, and brace in the main and cross-jack yards; at the same time taking care to keep the maintopsail full, to preserve the head-way, and to keep her a-head of the sea; also to keep it from splitting. When the wind is on the quarter, haul down the main storm-staysail, and shift over the sheet; when before the wind, right the helm, and square the head yards; shift over the fore storm-staysail sheet; watch for a smooth time to bring-her-to; then ease down the helm, hoist the mizen storm-staysail, and when the wind is on the quarter, brace up the yards, hoist the main storm-staysail, haul aft the fore storm-staysail sheet, meet her with the helm, trim the sails, and haul the maintop-bowline.
=301.=--WEARING UNDER A MAINSAIL.
Make fast a hawser to the slings of the main yard, take it down forward of the sail, haul it well taut, and belay it to the topsail sheet bitts. Call all hands and station them as in the last case; take advantage of her falling off to put the helm up. Ease off the main sheet, and gather in the lee tack, using the yards as in ordinary cases. Should she not go off, send down the cross-jack yard, and mizentopsail yard; house the topmast, and get a drag over the lee quarter, after which proceed as before in bracing the yards, and bring by the wind.
=302.=--WEARING UNDER BARE POLES.
Send down the after yards and mizen topmast, and bend a hawser to it in-board. Send men in the weather fore rigging with tarpaulins; up helm, and make use of the yards as usual.
If she should not go off, it will be necessary, as a last resort, to cut away the mizen mast, veer away the hawser, and use the mizen topmast as a drag to assist in wearing.
=303.=--CUTTING AWAY THE MASTS.
Clear away all the running rigging attached to the mast, cut away the lanyards of the lee rigging; then the lanyards of the stays and weather rigging.
=304.=--LAYING-TO UNDER LOWER STAYSAILS, WEAR SHIP.
If it does not blow too fresh, the close-reefed mainsail may be set, as some lofty sail is necessary, to prevent the ship from being pooped; then proceed as in veering under bare poles. If she should not go off, clap a lashing round the bunt of the foresail, and set the weather goose-wing. Should she still not go off, send down the after yards and mizen topmast, making a drag of them. If they have no effect, cut away the mizen mast.
Part V
=305.=--PRECAUTIONS FOR SCUDDING.
When scudding in a heavy gale of wind, care should be taken that sufficient of lofty sail be carried on the vessel, to keep her freely and fairly before the sea. A ship will scud better with the sea right aft, than quartering. With a heavy sea, the danger to be apprehended is, that the wave traveling faster than the ship, may overtake and break over her. To avoid this, and diminish its danger, some such sail as a close-reefed topsail or foresail is generally kept set as long as possible; but there are times when the foresail is not the best suited, nor the safest for scudding. Some ships that steer badly, and manifest an inclination to yaw, will be more steadily steered, and easier managed when scudding under the fore-topsail and fore-staysail. Should the ship happen to broach-to, the foresail, in such a perilous situation, is an unwieldy and unmanageable sail to clew up; and when the sea strikes the ship on the quarter, and causes her head to round-to in the direction of the wind, the main-topsail tends to assist the sea in producing this dangerous movement; whereas, the fore-staysail, together with the fore-topsail, produces the contrary effect.
It is deeply laden ships that are most liable to get pooped; in which circumstance, a skilful foresight must be exercised in lightening them.
Relieving-tackles should be hooked, and hands stationed to attend them; spare tiller and rudder-chocks at hand, and perfectly ready for use; for, if the ship should get pooped with a heavy sea, the tiller is likely to get snapped, the ship to broach-to, and the rudder, if not quickly secured, to be unhung, and after damaging the stern, to be lost. Wreck then almost immediately follows.
When using the foresail, a tackle hooked to the lee fore-tack would be of service in filling the sail.
=306.=--SCUDDING.--A SHIP BROACHES-TO.
Meet her with the helm, and lee head braces, if necessary; shiver the after yards; should she still come-to, and the sails are taken aback, brace about the head yards, and if necessary, use the helm. If she should get too much stern-board in falling off, haul up the foresail, and pay her off with the fore storm-staysail; fill the after yards as soon as possible, to gather headway, and when she has fallen off sufficiently, brace about the head yards, and trim as before.
Note.--As in scudding, the safety of the ship depends entirely upon the steering, the greatest care should be taken that a steady and expert helmsman is stationed at the wheel, and that when his “trick” is out, and his “relief” arrives to take his place, that he resigns not his hand at the helm, until his successor is in full possession of the easiest method of steering the ship. The officer of the deck should also direct a compass to be placed in the gun-room, and be cautious that a competent seaman is there to attend the relieving tackles, and watch closely the steerage of the ship by the compass-card.
In frigates, and particularly flushed-decked vessels, whose binnacle-lights are liable to be extinguished by the wind, precaution should be taken that lighted lanterns are kept in readiness to supply the place of the blown-out lights. On dark and starless nights, when the steersman has no other guide to govern his steerage than the compass-card, it is of the utmost importance that attention should be paid to this particular; as in a number of instances the accident of broaching-to may be traced to the “blowing out” of the binnacle lights, and carelessness of the helmsman. It requires a quick, small helm to steer a ship when scudding.
=307.=--SCUDDING.--BROUGHT BY THE LEE.
A ship is said to be “brought by the lee” when struck aback by a change of wind. If she has headway, which will probably be the case, put the helm a-weather, but if she has sternway, the contrary. Brace round the after yards, and when they are full, the head ones. This is the principle of tacking, but it is not thought as well when scudding in a gale, as the ship might get too rapid sternway, which would be dangerous in a heavy sea. As the object is to preserve the headway, the yards are braced round as soon as possible. If scudding under the main-topsail, and it becomes necessary to reduce sail, take in the fore-topsail, for the main being nearer the centre of gravity, has less tendency to bury the ship, and she is consequently more easily steered.
When scudding under the main-topsail and foresail, the ship is to be brought by the wind, and she should have a tendency to gripe, keep the foresail on her; but if otherwise, take in the foresail, and set the fore storm-staysail; brace up the head yards, then the after ones. Watch for a smooth time, and ease down the helm, taking care to meet her in due time.
The reason for bracing up the head yards before luffing, is, in scudding the ship has a rapid headway, and will mind the helm very quickly; moreover, the sea acting with violence on the quarter, will throw her up into the wind, and unless the head yards are braced up so as to prevent that, she will be in the same situation as if she had broached-to.
=308.=--HEAVING-TO.
Having determined from the known quality of the ship, what sail would be best to heave-to under; bring by the wind as in the previous subject. If intending to lay-to under a main-topsail, when by the wind, haul up and furl the foresail, down foretopmast-staysail; if under lower-staysails, hoist them; at the same time taking in the foresail and main-topsail.
The helm is kept a-lee while laying-to, but not lashed down, it being considered best to have a little steerage-way on.
Note.--It is best to bring by the wind under the square-sails, as the ship is more under command than she would be if they were furled.
=309.=--TAKING IN A LOWER STUDDING-SAIL--BLOWING FRESH.
This is a much nicer operation than young officers generally are inclined to admit, and unless executed with caution and skill on the part of the officer “carrying on the duty” on deck, the probability is, the topmast studding-sail boom will snap short in the iron, and the sail, swinging-boom gear and all, will have to be recorded in the log as “expended.” When not sailing in a squadron, and the yawing of the ship be a matter of minor importance, the officer of the watch is recommended to proceed as follows:--
Place a steady helmsman at the wheel, and stand close to him; man well the sheet, and lead it well aft along the deck; also see that steady hands attend the tack and guys. When perfectly prepared, direct the helmsman with a “small helm,” to bring the wind gradually on the opposite quarter, and the moment the body of the sail begins to lose the breeze, and the canvass inclines to shiver, lower the outer halliards, ease the tack, and haul in on the sheet as rapidly as possible, lowering the inner halliards at the same time.
Note.--More booms are sprung, and even snapped short in the iron, from the sudden jerk produced by lowering the lower halliards, when the sail is straining and bellying to the breeze, than by even carrying a powerful press of canvass. And here it may be well to impress upon the mind of the young seaman, that a judicious management of the helm, in almost every situation in which it can be placed, will not only aid the physical strength employed, but also greatly facilitate the service sought.
=310.=--TO UNBEND A TOPSAIL IN A GALE OF WIND.
Those who know the value of minutes to men perched aloft in a perilous position, will adopt that method which will eventually cost the least time and trouble. The sail should be first furled, then detached from the yard, and sent down on deck (slung amidships) by the long tackle[29] hooked at the topmast-head, and steadied forward clear of the top-rim by the weather or lee bowline, according to the side on which the sail is to be sent down. (See 298).
Should the ship be rolling or pitching to any extent, and it is not deemed prudent to lower the furled sail “before all,” the sail may be sent down through lubber’s hole. This method will depend entirely upon the motion of the ship.
[29] Generally called the top-burton.
=311.=--SECURING IN A GALE.
See that the yards which have sails set upon them are not unnecessarily sharp up; that the yards whose sails are furled are hoisted clear of the caps; that the runners and tackles are up in good time; that all unnecessary strain is taken off the rigging; and that mats are carefully placed wherever a chafe is likely to occur, such as at the bunts of the furled sails, and at the lee quarters of the yards, which are braced up against the rigging.
See also that the fore and main sheets, if set, be checked a little; the weather lifts and trusses well up and taut; jiggers on topsail lifts, and studding-sails out of the rigging; anchors and guns properly secured; and in a small vessel, the hatches battened down, extra on boats, spare spars, &c., &c.
=312.=--PREPARATIONS FOR A HURRICANE AT SEA.
Endeavor to get sea room; if you have it, run before the wind. The captain and first officer to cunn the ship; two or three of the best men to steer; the master to keep the time, and the courses steered, and have the ship’s place kept worked up.
Previous to its coming on, have a life-line set up on each side of the deck. Furl all sails, and secure them with studding-sail tacks as well as long gaskets; batten down the hatches, and have the relieving tackles on the tiller; down topgallant-yards, and send topgallant-masts on deck, and flying jib-boom in. Clear the tops; gaffs down; rudder-chocks and spare tiller at hand; axes and hawsers at hand; scuppers clear; pumps ready. Let each man wear a belt to secure himself if required to the most convenient place; keep the after yards square; head yards thrown forward, and have the fore-staysail set with double sheets.
=313.=--PREPARATIONS FOR A HURRICANE AT AN ANCHOR, (with notes on the Barometer.)
The ship should be moored with a whole cable each way if in harbor, or if in an open roadstead, veer to a hundred fathoms on each anchor.
The more your berth is out of the way of other ships, the better, as vessels driving, or getting adrift, occasion much damage to those who might otherwise have held on.
If moored, the sheet cable to be bent and ranged, and the anchor let go, and veer on the bowers to the clinches.
All the ground tackle you have should be used. Have a shackle abaft the foremost stopper, on each cable, ready for slipping if absolutely necessary, to prevent swamping, or from other causes.
Batter down fore and aft.
Down topgallant yards and masts.
If time, unbend sails (topsails and courses, I mean).
Strike lower-yards and topmasts.
Get yards as much fore and aft as possible.
Jib-boom eased in.
Keep try-sails and fore stay-sail bent, and the former reefed. Unreeve the running rigging, that nothing may be aloft to hold the wind.
Clear the tops.
No boats to be above the gunwale.
Axes and hawsers up ready.
If anchors drag, cut away lower masts--the rigging being first cut and cleared. Remember the stays.
Notes and remarks on the Barometer.
==============================+====================================== |As the force of the wind is what is |required for service at sea, the SCALE OF BAROMETER AT PRESENT.|following would be better understood. ------------------------------+-------+------------------------------ Inches.| |Inches.| 31.0 |Very dry. | | 30.5 |Set fair. | 30.5 |Very settled. 30.0 |Fair. | 30.0 |Fine weather. | | 29.7 |Unsettled. 29.5 |Changeable. | 29.5 |Gale. | | 29.2 |Storm. 29.0 |Rain. | 29.0 |Violent storm. 28.5 |Much rain. | 28.5 |Tempest. 28.0 |Stormy. | |
When the mercury falls in the Barometer, it announces rain, or wind, or in general what is called bad weather; and, on the contrary, when it rises, it announces fair weather.
When the mercury falls in frosty weather, either snow, or a thaw may be expected; but if it rises in the winter with a north or east wind, it generally forebodes a frost.
If the mercury sinks slowly, we may expect rain, which will probably be of some continuance; but if it rises gradually, we may expect fine weather that will be lasting.
When the Barometer is fluctuating, rising and falling suddenly, the weather may be expected to be like it--changeable.
When the mercury falls very low, there will be much rain; but if its fall is low and sudden, a high wind frequently follows.
When an extraordinary fall of the mercury happens, without any remarkable change near at hand, there is some probability of a storm at a distance.
In very warm weather the fall of the mercury indicates thunder.
The Barometer will descend sometimes as an indication of wind only, and sometimes rise when the wind is to the north or east.
A north-east wind generally causes the Barometer to rise, and it is generally low with a south-west wind.
An extraordinary fall of the mercury will sometimes take place in summer previous to heavy showers, attended with thunder; but in spring, autumn, and winter, it indicates violent winds.
The mercury is higher in cold than in warm weather, and lower at noon and midnight than at any other period of the day.
The mercury generally falls at the approach of new and full moon, and rises at the quadratures.
Before high tides, there is almost always a great fall of the mercury; this takes place oftener at the full than at the new moon.
The greatest changes of the Barometer commonly take place during clear weather with a north wind, and the smallest risings during cloudy, rainy, or windy weather, with a south or nearly south wind.
The words generally engraved on the plate of the Barometer, rather serve to mislead, than to inform; for the changes of weather depend rather on the rising and falling of the mercury, than on its standing at any particular height.
When the mercury is as high as “fair,” and the surface of it is concave, (which is the case when it begins to descend,) it very often rains; and on the contrary, when the mercury is opposite “rain,” and the surface of it is convex, (which is the case when it begins to ascend,) fair weather may be expected. These circumstances not being duly attended to, is the principal cause that many people have not a proper confidence in this instrument.
For sea-service, it would be as well to read the Barometer off three times a day at least--at 8 A. M., noon, and 8 P. M.--and oftener if bad weather.
In Europe, if the alteration in the quicksilver should be in as great a proportion as six-tenths of an inch to twenty-four hours, sudden but not lasting changes of weather may be expected.
If the alteration should be gradual, probably in the proportion of two or three-tenths to twenty-four hours, the weather indicated will be likely to last.
One-fifth of the variation of the Barometer, in any climate, in twenty-four hours, may be considered as an indication of sudden change.
If wind should follow rain, the wind may be expected to increase.
Rain following wind is likely to lull it, and the wind may be expected to abate.
=314.=--THE FOREMAST IS CARRIED AWAY.
Hard up the helm, brace in the after yards, hoist the main-staysail, take in after sail, and endeavor to get before the wind; if successful, keep her so, by veering a range of cable over the stern, and lashing it amidships; if not, which is most likely to be the case, and should carry away the main-topmast also, lay her to under the main-staysail. If the main-topmast should stand, clew-up the main-topsail immediately, get the breast backstays over the topsail-yard, and set them up as far forward as possible, by means of tackles. Bend hawsers on the wreck, clear it away, especially the lanyards of the lee-rigging, so as to preserve the channels and chain-bolts, and endeavor to haul it aboard. Send down the after yards and spars, and save as much of the wreck as possible. Rig a jury-foremast, fitting spars and sails to the best advantage; when the jury-mast is rigged, reeve a main-topmast stay, of a hawser, and take the breast-backstays aft again, after which cut clear of the wreck, if not required.
=315.=--TO RIG A JURY-MAST.
Take a spare spar, the largest on board, a main-topmast for instance, and launch the head over the night-heads, the heel resting against the stump of the old mast; put on the cross-trees and bolsters, fit the rigging and stays from hawsers, and hook a couple of tackles from the jury-mast head--which take to the sides and haul taut; hook another, which take well aft; lash the heel of the stump to prevent slipping, and raise the mast with the after purchase, tending the stays and pendant-tackles; when up, reeve the lanyards, set up the rigging and stays. Cleet and lash the heel securely. Ship the cap, send up a topgallant-mast for a topmast, fit a topsail yard for a lower yard, and a topgallant yard for a topsail yard, and so on.
=316.=--ACCIDENTS TO TILLER.
In the event of losing a mast.
Should the tiller break in the rudder head, the rudder must immediately be chocked, that its stump may be taken out and the spare tiller fitted, which, together with the chock, should always be placed in readiness for immediate use. While the rudder is useless, the ship must be hove-to till it is repaired, or some contrivance prepared to supply its place.
=317.=--THE MAIN-MAST IS CARRIED AWAY.
Hard-up the helm, secure the mizen topmast if it still stands, clear the wreck, save as much as possible, and rig a jury main-mast, as above.
=318.=--THE BOWSPRIT IS CARRIED AWAY.
Hard-up the helm, shiver the after yards, take in after sail, and get the ship before the wind; take the fore-topmast breast-backstays forward over the top-sail yard, hook the pendant tackles and set them up to the cat-heads; unreeve the main-topmast and spring-stays, and set them up to the foretopsail sheet bitts; hitch a hawser to the foretopmast head, take this in through one of the hawse-holes, and set it up on the gun-deck. While this is performing, let some hands be reducing sail, sending down topgallant yards and masts if they are aloft, and clearing the wreck; rig a jury-bowsprit of a spare main-topmast or a jib-boom.
=319.=--A TOPMAST IS CARRIED AWAY.
Get the ship before the wind immediately, and reduce sail; hook the top-blocks and reeve hawsers through them; bend the lee one to the topsail-yard, which is probably hanging to leeward of the topmast, with the wreck. Clew up the topsail if practicable, and cut the parrel if it can be got at. The yard now hangs clear of the topmast; bend the weather hawser to the wreck of the topmast; have guys from the weather side of the deck--clear away the lanyards of the rigging and stays, also the rigging leading to the topmast head, and send it down on deck; hook the yard-tackles, slack the braces and trusses, bouse the lower yards forward, and send down the stump; get the topsail-yard down in the lee-gangway, and repair its damages while the spare topmast is got aloft and secured by the old rigging; send aloft the yard, set the topsails, and bring her to her course again.
=320.=--THE JIB-BOOM IS CARRIED AWAY.
Mind the weather helm, hoist the foretopmast-staysail, and get in the wreck by the fore pendant-tackles, hooked to the fore-stay; reeve a heel-rope and get in the stump; point another boom, and rig it with the old rigging, if sound, if not, with spare ropes or hawsers.
=321.=--THE FOREMAST IS SPRUNG NEAR THE HOUNDS OR BIBBS.
Get the ship before the wind immediately, reduce sail, and get all the strain off the foremast; secure the main-topmast.
Send down topgallant yards and masts; hook the jeers, and settle the fore yard; hook top-blocks, reeve top-pendants and house topmasts, allowing the heel to come considerably below the defect; fish the foremast with side fishes, and the heel of the topmast, wedging the lashings. Clap a lashing around the doublings of the mast-head, having chocks between; keep the pendant-tackles rove, turn in the rigging afresh, and set it up; wedge the topmast in the cap, and sway the fore yard close up to the heel of the topmast; reef the head sails to diminish the strain if required.
=322.=--THE FOREMAST AND BOWSPRIT CARRIED AWAY.
Proceed as in 314, the remarks being applied to the present case; lay-to under the main-staysail, to leeward of the wreck, and repair damages on board, in the best possible manner; rig a jury foremast and bowsprit, and then cut clear, having saved as many spars and sails, and as much rigging as possible; if the ship lays easily by the wreck, it would probably be well to ride by it, until the gale abates. If it is absolutely necessary to veer, it might be done as before mentioned, with the assistance of the mainsail, making use of the wreck as a drag, by taking the hawser as a spring to the quarter.
=323.=--THE BOWSPRIT IS SPRUNG.
Up helm, shiver the after yards, take in after sail, and get the ship before the wind; haul down the head sails, come up the main topmast stays, and set them up on deck; get the fore-topmast breast-backstays forward, hook the fore pendant tackles, and set them up to the cat-head; come up all the head stays, and rig in the head booms; send down upper yards and masts, take the fore-topmast stays through the hawse-hole, and set them up.
Note.--All strain now being off the bowsprit, fish it with the regular fishes; if there are none on board, use the jib-boom; if thought sufficiently strong to bear the strain of the head stays, get them in their proper places, but if not, get stays out merely to make sail.
=324.=--A TOPMAST IS SPRUNG NEAR THE LOWER CAP.
Get the ship before the wind and reduce sail; if a spare topmast is not to be had, the old one may be housed far enough to allow the spring to come some feet below the cap, setting the lower yard as in the last case; fit a larger chock between the topmast and lowermast head, and clap stout lashings around, above, and below the defect part, wedging them well; reef the foresail so that it can be set with the yard in its present place, and also the top-sail, to lessen the strain on the weak spar.
Note.--Sheep-shank the rigging, if required, before setting up.
=325.=--TO SEND ALOFT A TOPMAST, AND A HEAVY SEA ON.
After the topmast is pointed and rigged, hook the burtons to stout strops, at the rim of the top on each side; hitch hawsers to the mast-head, leading one through a larger block at the fore-topmast head, and another aft through one at the mizen; haul the burtons and hawsers taut; sway aloft the topmast, slacking up as it goes aloft; when fidded, steady the topmast until the rigging and stays are set up.
=326.=--THE GAMMONING CARRIED AWAY.
Proceed as in 323, until all strain is off the bowsprit; put a stout chock on the bowsprit, and pass the end of the messenger out of a hawse-hole, over the chock, in through the other hawse-hole, and bitt it; take the other end to the capstan, and get the bowsprit well down in its bed by the messenger and bob-stays; come up the old gammoning, and pass a new one.
Note.--Iron gammonings are used for all vessels, by new regulation. (See Rigging Table.)
=327.=--A LOWER CAP SPLITS.
Take all sail off the mast, pass a stout lashing around the topmast and lower mast-head, which wedge; after which woold and wedge the cap.
=328.=--THE TRESTLE-TREES ARE SPRUNG.
Get the ship before the wind, take all sail off the mast, send down topgallant yards and masts, housing the others; hook the top-blocks, reeve top-pendants, hook top-tackles, and bouse them well taut, taking all strain off the fid; pass several stout lashings around the heel of the topmast and lower mast-head, cleating them to prevent their slipping; make sail as the mast will bear.
=329.=--A LOWER YARD IS CARRIED AWAY IN THE SLINGS.
If the fore-yard, get the ship before the wind, haul up the foresail, clew up the topsail, take in all sail on the mizen-mast, unreeve the foretopsail sheets and board them on deck; bring her on your course again, and haul the bowlines.
If a main-yard, keep on the course, haul up the mainsail, clew up the topsail, unreeve the sheets, board them on deck, and haul the bowlines well out; having proceeded thus far, get stout strops around the inner quarter of the yard, and hook the pendant-tackles to bolts in the lower cap, and these strops; if the pendant-tackles are not at hand, use the burtons.
Lash the jear-blocks, reeve the jears, and send the yard down by the jears, lifts, and pendant-tackles; fish the lower yards immediately, if it can be done; if it cannot, rig a topsail yard for a lower yard.
=330.=--A TOPSAIL YARD IS CARRIED AWAY.
If it is the fore, reduce after sail; mind the weather helm, and keep the ship on her course. If it is the main, stand on, clew up the sail, unbend it, and get it into the top the best manner possible. Get a strop around the topmast-head, above the eyes of the rigging, to which hook a large single block, and reeve a hawser through it. If the yard is completely broken off, bend the hawser which is not secured by the parrel, bend on guys, and send it down; then send down the other piece. If it still remains together, bend on the slings, stop out to leeward, have a tripping line and rolling ropes, and get it fore and aft on deck; take off all the old rigging, which put on to the spare yard in the chains; then bend on the hawser, sway aloft, and cross it as in fitting the ship out, have rolling ropes around it as it goes aloft; bend the topsail, and set it.
=331.=--THE SHIP LEAKS FASTER THAN THE PUMPS CAN FREE HER.
Find out where the leak is; thrum an old sail very thickly, and have stout ropes attached to each leech; make it up, take it under the bowsprit, and get the ropes on their respective sides; heave the ship to; when her headway eases, drop the sail overboard; after it has sunk beneath the keel, break the stops, haul aft on the ropes attached to each clew; when the body of the sail is over the leak, haul well taut all the ropes attached to the leeches and the head, which will prevent the sail from going aft when going ahead; make sail, and continue pumping.
=332.=--THE PUMPS ARE CHOKED.
Hoist them out, and clear them.
=333.=--A SHOT GETS LOOSE IN A GUN SECURED FOR A GALE.
Prick the cartridge well down, and pour vinegar enough in the touch-hole to drown it.
=334.=--TO THROW A LOWER DECK GUN OVERBOARD.
Fit a chock in the port-sill, and over the pomelion of the gun, to which, from the housing-bolt, hook a stout tackle; unlash the muzzle, heave up the breech, and put in the bed and coin; unreeve the breeching, throw back the cap squares, and place capstan bars under the breech to ease it, and prevent the gun from slipping back into the carriage again; man the side and port tackles, watch the roll, trice up the port briskly, run out, and throw the gun clear of the carriage, by the breech-tackles and capstan-bars; shut in the port immediately.
Part VI
=335.=--TO TURN REEFS OUT OF THE TOPSAILS AND COURSES.
Haul taut the reef-pendants, and set taut the lower lifts; ease off the bowlines; ease a little of the tacks and sheets of the courses, and settle a few feet of the topsail halliards; haul taut the reef tackles and buntlines, round in a little of the weather braces, to clear the points of the lee-rigging; commence casting off the points of the bunt, taking care to leave none tied, and turning one reef out at a time; ease away both earings together; overhaul the rigging, get the tacks on board; sheet home, hoist the topsails up to a taut leech, out bowlines and make sail.
=336.=--THE RUDDER IS CARRIED AWAY--TO FIT ANOTHER.
Man the braces immediately; take in after sails, and let the ship run a little free; rouse up a cable, clove-hitch a hawser over the cable, and then pay it overboard; veer away about twenty fathoms, and lash it amidships on the taffrail; lead the ends of the hawsers through large blocks, lashed to the quarters, and clap tackles on them; steer the ship by this contrivance, until a rudder can be constructed. (See Plate.)
Take a spare topmast, cut it the length of the rudder, enlarge the fid-hole to receive the tiller, if not already large enough; take a spare cap and cut away the after part, so as to fit the stern post at the waters’ edge, or a little below; pass the topmast through the round hole in the cap; take a spare jib-boom and cut it in two; the pieces are to be bolted on abaft the topmast, after squaring the edges which will come in contact with each other, and cutting a score in the forward part of the jib-boom, next to the topmast, to allow the cap to have room to play in; plank the whole over with stout oak plank, and bolt in a fish abaft all; drive an eye-bolt into the heel of the topmast (now the head of the rudder), and have kentledge attached to the other end to sink it; take an anchor-stock and square two of the edges; cut away a circular score in each, for them to join together around the top mast, below the squares, and thus serve as an upper gudgeon; drive the anchor-stock hoops on the rudder-head, to prevent splitting.
Place the rudder on a stage, near the taffrail; pass a couple of hawsers aft through the hawse-holes, and secure them to the heel of the rudder; have tackles on their inner ends; have two more hawsers or parts of hawsers passed from forward aft, under everything, one each side, and clinch them to the quarter eye-bolts in the cap; have a pendant round as described in another place; launch overboard and rouse up on the head rope; heave in upon the hawsers, and bring the rudder to the stern post, perpendicularly; secure the cap to the stern post and the anchor-stock, around the rudder head; ship the tiller, reeve the wheel-ropes, and rouse in the cable. The kentledge may remain to keep the rudder perpendicular, or may be taken off, as the case may require.
Note.--See improved sketch or plan of temporary rudder.
=337.=--A SHIP ON FIRE AT SEA.
Hard up the helm, haul up the courses, up spanker, get the ship before the wind, and reduce sail to topsails; beat to quarters, close all the ports, muster the men at their stations, call away the firemen, under charge of their proper officers; let a part fill the engine and wet the sails, while the other part finds out where the fire is, and endeavor to extinguish it if possible--for which purpose use bedding; putting over the gratings and tarpaulins. The gunner and his mates should be in the magazine, ready to drown the powder at a moment’s notice; let the carpenters rig and fetch the pumps, and the spar-deck division clear away the boats, equip them, and get them ready for hoisting out; in the above case, the fire is supposed to be below, and the helm is put up, because wind is less felt; the ports are shut in, and the tarpaulins put on, as they would afford air to the fire; and the courses hauled up, because they strike a current of air down the hatchways, and are also liable to catch. If the fire is on deck, and forward, keep before the wind; if aft, haul close on a wind.
=338.=--A SHIP ON HER BEAM ENDS.
When the severity of the squall is felt, hard up the helm and let fly everything; but if she goes on her beam ends before she can be got off sufficiently to diminish the effects of the wind, the best way will be to cut away the mizen-mast before the headway ceases, which falling over the lee quarter, will act as a drag, to pay her off; should she not right when before the wind, if there be an anchorage, and the cable is bent, get the drag to the lee-bow, by means of a spring, and rouse in; the wind acting on the flat deck, and under side of the sails, will probably right her. As a last resort, cut away the masts--great decision and rapidity of execution is necessary, as the ship must go down a short time after she goes over.
=339.=--WIND FREE, ALL SAIL SET, STRUCK BY A SQUALL.
Up helm, let fly the main-sheets, spanker-outhaul, staysail-sheets and halliards, royal and topgallant studding-sail-halliards, royal and topgallant-sheets, and halliards; haul up the mainsail, brail up the spanker, down staysails, and order the topmen to haul in the studding-sails and stow them. When before the wind, right the helm, clew down the topsails, haul up the buntlines, and out reef-tackles, and reef if necessary; clear up the decks as fast as possible.
Note.--In ordinary cases, sheets and tacks should be eased off, for if they should get foul when running through their blocks fast, spars might be endangered; but when struck by a severe squall, the effect of the sails must be diminished as soon as possible, to save the masts, and prevent her from going over.
=340.=--STRUCK BY A SQUALL ON A LEE SHORE.
If sail cannot be reduced, luff-too and shake her; fill away again, gather headway, and luff again.
=341.=--STRUCK BY A SQUALL UNDER WHOLE TOPSAILS AND COURSERS.
Up helm, let fly the topsail halliards, main-sheet, spanker outhaul, and lee-topsail sheets; haul up the mainsail, brail up the spanker, clew up the topsails to leeward, then to windward; right the helm, and reef if necessary.
=342.=--ON A WIND, UNDER WHOLE TOPSAILS--PART THE WEATHER MAIN-TOPSAIL BRACE.
Haul up the mainsail, let go the lee main-brace, haul forward on the lee-maintop-bowline, and aft on the weather main-brace; luff-too, and when the main-topsail shivers, clew it down, haul up the buntlines, out reef tackles, and steady the yard by the bowline, until a new brace can be rove; a burton might be hooked to steady the yard.
=343.=--THE JIB-DOWNHAUL PARTS.
Untoggle the fore-topgallant-bowlines, and knot them together, above the first hank, between the stay and jib-halliards, which use for a downhaul, until you reeve a new one.
=344.=--TO CHASE.
A vessel that chases another should have the advantage in point of sailing, because if the ship chased is as good a sailer as the chaser, the latter can never come up to her, if she manœuvred equally as well.
In order to determine whether your ship sails faster than your adversary, get upon the same tack, under the same sail, and keep upon the same course with her; set her exactly with a compass, and if your ship sails best, the sail will soon draw a point more aft; if she has the advantage she will in a short time draw more forward, and if both sail equally well, she will remain at the same point.
=345.=--TO CHASE TO WINDWARD.
To chase to windward, run upon the same course with the enemy, until he is brought perpendicularly to the same course; when tack and continue the second board, until he is again brought perpendicularly to the same course; always continue this manœuvre by tacking every time the chase is a-beam, on either board, and she will come in the shortest method by your superiority of sailing. Should the chase pass the point, when the chase bears a-beam, he must go about with all dispatch.
Note.--The chase goes about as soon as the chase is exactly a-beam, because at that time, the distance between them is the least possible upon the different boards they hold.
=346.=--OBSERVATIONS FOR A SHIP TO WINDWARD, WHICH IS CHASED.
The weather ship will always be joined, since it is granted that she does not sail as well as the pursuer, it will be then to her advantage to keep constantly on the same tack, without losing time to heave about, for tacking cannot be so favorable to her as to her adversary, whose sailing is superior.
If the chaser mistakingly stands on and tacks in the wake of the chase, the best course for the latter to pursue is to heave about and pass to windward of him on the other tack, unless you suppose your vessel would have a superiority in going large; for if the chaser persists in tacking in the wake of the other ship, the chase will be much prolonged.
=347.=--TO CHASE TO LEEWARD.
If the chaser keeps away to cut the chase off, and keeps continually on that course, they will eventually come together where the two courses intersect. This will be exactly executed by the ship in chase, if in the course she has taken, she keeps the chase continually upon the same degree of the compass as at the beginning of the pursuit. This principle applies equally to all the courses which the retreating ship pursues, for if overtaken, it can only be accomplished by keeping in a straight line, if the chase takes another course than that which keeps the two ships upon the same point. These are the only considerations to be made, and they may be corrected, by observing the bearings by an azimuth compass.
=348.=--TO WINDWARD OF AN ENEMY, WITHIN PISTOL SHOT.--The weather main rigging is shot away--both ships with main-topsails to the mast.
Up helm, fill away, and run the enemy on board, before she gets headway to prevent it.
=349.=--WIND ON THE QUARTER, ALL SAIL SET--BRING BY UNDER DOUBLE-REEFED TOPSAILS.
Reduce sail regularly, and clew down the topsails; luff enough to reef, hoist the topsails, and haul close on a wind.
=350.=--WIND ON THE QUARTER, ALL SAIL SET--BRING-TO ON THE OTHER TACK, UNDER DOUBLE REEFED TOPSAILS.
Reduce sail to topsails, station the crew forward, with one watch of topmen aloft to reef; brail up the spanker, up helm, brace in, and when before the wind, clew down the topsails, haul out reef-tackles, and up buntlines; let the men lay out and reef; wind on the quarter, brace up cross-jack yard, and haul out the spanker; as she comes-too, brace up the fore yard, and meet her with the helm and jib-sheet; when coming-too, a good opportunity will be offered for reefing; when reefed, hoist away the topsails, letting the main go a-back, the others fill.
Note.--Having a dismasted ship in tow, heave-to, make fast the stream cable to the mainmast of the ship, and take it in at the weather gangway, clinching it around the mainmast; then make fast a stout hawser as a spring, and snatch it to a block lashed amidships on the taffrail, so that the ship may either ride on the weather quarter, or be roused astern. In case of veering, rouse in upon the spring, and the manœuvre will be performed with more certainty. After it is executed, the tow-rope must be shifted to the opposite gangway, by means of a spring, &c.
=351.=--HOW TO GET THE ANCHORS OFF THE BOWS.
Hook the fore pendant-tackle; single the shank-painters, and set them taut with the pendant-tackles; come up the shank-lashings, put the shoes between the bills and bows, by capstan-bars, and then by the shank-painters as far as necessary.
Single and set taut cat-head stoppers, and then unlash the rings.
=352.=--TO ANCHOR HEAD TO WIND--WIND FREE.
See that the officers and men are at their stations, and the strictest silence preserved, as the ship nears her berth; take in all the studding sails, get the burtons off the yards, and the jiggers off the topgallant yards; send the booms and sails down from aloft; man the fore clew-garnets, buntlines and leechlines; the mainsail is hauled up as the ship is going free; topgallant and royal clewlines; lay aloft and stand by to furl the sails snug, and square the yards by the lifts and braces; have hands by the fore tack and sheet, topgallant and royal sheets, halliards, weather braces, and bowlines; up foresail, in topgallant-sails and royals; furl the sails snug, and square the yards by the lifts and braces, hauling taut the halliards. Man the topsail-clewlines and buntlines, weather braces, jib-downhaul, and spanker-outhaul; attend the sheets, halliards, and spanker-brails, ease down the helm, haul down the jib, haul out the spanker, and when the topsail lifts, clear away the sheets, and clew them up; then let go the halliards, clew down, and square away the yards immediately; haul aft the spanker-sheet, and when the headway ceases, stream the buoy, stand clear of the cable; when she begins to go astern, let go the anchor, brail up the spanker, crotch the boom, haul taut the guys, light-to the cable, as fast as she will take it, until a sufficient scope is out, when stopper. Furl sails, haul taut and stop in the rigging, send the boats’ crews aft, to lower the boats down. Let the boatswain go ahead to square the yards--clear up the decks.
Note.--If in going to moor, veer out double the mooring scope, and then let go the anchor; then furl sails and heave in.
=353.=--TO ANCHOR ON A LEE SHORE.
The ship being on a lee shore, and no room to veer, recourse must be had to letting go all the anchors. For this purpose all the cables are bent and ranged, and all the anchors got ready for letting go; the weather sheet is bitted to the forward bitts, and the weather bower to the after bitts, to windward; the lee bower to the forward bitts, and the lee sheet to the after ones to leeward; no buoy rope is bent except to the weather sheet; the weather sheet is backed by the stream, and the other anchors with kedges; see all the tiers clear, get the ship under storm-staysails, and furl all the square sails; hook the yard tackles; get the lower yards forward, and house topmast; when all is ready, keep her a little off, to get headway. Let go the weather sheet and stream anchors and veer away, then the weather bower and kedge; down helm; haul down fore and main storm stay-sails, and the drift to leeward will carry her to the berth of the last anchor, which let go; haul down the mizen storm stay-sail, and veer away an equal scope on all four cables; observe that they will bear an equal strain, and veer to a long scope, reserving sufficient to freshen the nip with;[30] see that the cables are well rounded, and watch them carefully. If she should drag, sling the guns with the stoutest spare rigging on board, having a round turn around all these cables, and heave them over; if she should still drag, cut away the masts, and if there be no possibility of preventing her from going on shore, take a stout spring to one of the quarters, slip the cables, let her veer round and go on shore end on.[31]
Note.--In weighing these anchors, bring-to first on the cable which has got the least scope out, taking in the slack of the others with deck-tackles.
[30] If they are hemp cables; if chain, it is unnecessary.
[31] See Wrecked in a Gale.
=354.=--SCUDDING UNDER A FORESAIL--TO COME TO AN ANCHOR.
Get both bowers ready for letting go; haul up the foresail, making a due allowance for headway, and run in under bare poles; when near the berth, down helm, out with the spanker, and haul aft mizen storm stay-sail sheet; when by the wind, let go the weather anchor and veer away briskly; when head to wind, let go the lee anchor, and haul down the staysail; veer-to, and bring equal strain on both cables. If necessary, let go more anchors.
=355.=--TO MAKE A FLYING MOOR.
Make all necessary preparations for coming-to; overhaul and bitt a double range of the weather cable, and bitt the lee one at the range to which she is to be moored. When approaching the anchorage, reduce sail to topsails, jib and spanker, if moderate, but if fresh, to jib and spanker only; when near the berth of the first anchor, luff-to, stream the buoy, and when the headway has nearly ceased, let go the weather anchor, up helm, stand on and veer away roundly, to prevent the range from checking her; when the full range is nearly out, hard down the helm, down jib, clew up the topsails, out spanker, and let her lay the range out taut; when taut, let go the lee anchor, furl sails, bring-to on the weather-cable, reeving away on the lee one, and heave into the moorings. Moor taut, to allow for veering; clap on service, and veer it; if hemp cable, square the yards, stop in the rigging, and clear up the decks.
=356.=--TO MOOR WITH A LONG SCOPE OF CHAIN.
Shackle the ends of both chains together, and veer away nearly the whole of the two cables; then let go the other anchor, bring-to on the first cable, heave in, veering away on the other; when into the mooring mark or shackle, stopper and bitt, unshackle the chains, and secure all; clear up the decks, and pay the chain below. (See Unmooring and Mooring.)
=357.=--BLOWING FRESH--IN PORT.
Range the cables, see the anchor clear, and an anchor watch set; have leads-men in the chains--send down the upper yards, if not already down; house top-gallant masts, and point the yards to the wind.
=358.=--SEND DOWN LOWER YARDS.
Send aloft the jeer-blocks, lash them, and reeve the jeers; see the gear of the courses clear, trusses unrove, and lifts clear for unreeving; hook the yard-tackles and take them forward, heave taut the jeers, unreeve the lanyard of the slings, attend the braces and yard-tackles, lower away by the jeers and lifts. When down make all fast.
=359.=--TO HOUSE TOPMASTS.
Hook top-blocks, reeve pendants and falls, see the rigging clear that leads to the topmast heads, man the top tackle-falls, slack the lanyards of the rigging, stays and backstays; sway up, out fid, lower away, and haul down on the rigging; when low enough, pass heel-lashings around the lower masts, having canvass in the wake; set taut the rigging and stays. Sheep-shank the backstays, haul taut the running-rigging, and make all snug.
Note.--The topmasts may be housed with the lower yards aloft, by taking the yard-tackles forward and bousing upon them, slacking the braces and trusses at the same time (if not patent trusses). The patent truss has been so improved that the mast can be housed by unclamping one side and bracing sharp up.
=360.=--TO BACK A BOWER BY A STREAM.
Bend a stream-cable to the flukes of the bower-anchor, observing to let go the stream first; and when the cable is taut, let go the bower. If the bower is already down and dragging, form a clinch with the stream, around the cable, and let her drag until she brings the stream ahead.
=361.=--TO SWEEP FOR AN ANCHOR.
Make use of long stout running-rigging; middle it, and attach some sinker to the middle, also along the bight, to confine it to the bottom. Coil it away in two boats, and pull to windward of where the anchor is supposed to lie; then pull in an opposite direction, veering away on the bight from both boats; now pull in the direction of the anchor, and when the bight catches, cross the boats, and get a round turn with the rope; make a running bowline on the end of a hawser around the rope, and slip it down; when fast, weigh with the launch.
Note.--A section of small sized chain, with a rope bent to each end, is the best means that can be used to sweep for an anchor. Cross and bring both parts together, after which put on a shackle on both parts, and let it run down to the anchor; then heave up on both parts.
=362.=--PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING HARBOR.
Inspect the tiller-ropes, shift hard over the helm, once or twice each way, in order to see that the tiller is not obstructed in its sweep in the gun-room. Place lead-lines in both channels. Point the ends of the hawsers up the hatchways, ready for paying out in any direction. Range both bower cables; see stoppers placed in readiness (bitt and ring). Examine cat-head stoppers, and shank-painters of both bower-anchors.
Should the shank-painters be fitted slip-shackle fashion, care should be taken to place men by them who are acquainted with the method of disengaging the anchors, &c.
=363.=--WEIGHING ANCHOR IN A HEAD-SEA.
In weighing anchor with a head-sea, precaution should be taken to have previously prepared a good deck-tackle or other purchase, which affix to the messenger (if required), to assist the action of the capstan. There should also be had in readiness an ample quantity of nippers. (See Passing Nippers.)
=364.=--CASTING, OR CUTTING THE CABLE.
When at single anchor in a roadstead, and if it be apprehended that from the direction of the wind, and the local position of the ship with the shore, it may be necessary to have recourse to cutting the cable, and that casting the wrong way would endanger the safety of the vessel, timely precaution should be taken to ensure the ships casting in the right direction.
To effect this purpose, the stream cable should be bent to that of the riding bower, brought through the after part, and taken round the capstan, in readiness to act as a spring, to cant the ship previously to cutting. Axes should be placed abaft in the vicinity of the stream cable, for the purpose of cutting it, after the bower has been severed, and the ship’s head cast the desired way.
Note.--A slip or buoy-rope should be brought over “head,” so that when the cable is cut, a buoy may be left in the roadstead to denote the position of the anchor.
=365.=--CLINCHING CABLES.
Whatever be the number of hemp cables which are bent to the anchors, the officer in charge is particularly cautioned to clap on a clinch rounding, towards the inner extremity of each cable, keeping three sheaves in the tier; upon receiving the cables on board, and clinching their respective ends, the officer may proceed as given in the note below.
Chain-cables should never be clinched in a manner which will not admit of their ends being immediately disengaged, in the event of it becoming necessary to slip, or extricate the ship from her anchors; it may be said, that the cable may be unshackled on deck, but it may so happen, that the last shackle is without the hawse--a circumstance which will preclude the possibility of having recourse to this expedient.
Note.--Pay down three sheaves into the tier, and then clap on a racking lashing to the fore beam, previously worming and parceling in the wake of the lashing; measure then, allowing the cable bitted, and clap on a rounding in the wake, where the cable would bring up in the hawse, and chafe in the cutwater. This method leaves room to freshen hawse, in the event of having to veer to the clinch. Few ships adopt the precaution of clapping upon their cables a clinch service; when too late, the necessity of the practice is discovered.
=366.=--FITTING BUOY-ROPES.
Buoy-ropes are always proportioned to the depth of water. One end is unlaid, and a buoy rope-knot made; it is then laid up again, and whipped. A clove hitch is made, one half of the hitch being on each side of the crown. The end with the knot is seized on the shank, one seizing put on close to the crown, and one close to the end. The other is bent to the buoy. Some prefer the running eye. Put over one arm, and a half-hitch over the other arm, and seized in the cross.
=367.=--JIB-HALLIARDS WITH A WHIP.
A piece of rope, nearly equal to the double halliards, is rove through the block at the mast-head, and hooked to the head of the jib, a hook being spliced in the end; in the other a single block is spliced high enough from the deck to allow the jib being hauled close down. Through this block reeve a fall, and send both ends down through lubber’s-hole; splice a hook in one end, and hook into a bolt; reeve the other through a leading-block. Objections have been made to whips, but if the standing part is put a good distance from the hauling, it is impossible that it can take turns in--they can lead abaft the top if necessary. I should recommend their being brought down immediately forward of topsail halliards.
=368.=--JIB SHEETS, DOUBLE.
Two single blocks are seized into one strap, as span blocks, and the strap secured to the clew[32] of the sail, with a lashing passed through it, and an eye formed in the strap by crossing both parts together, and passing a throat seizing. One end of the sheet is clinched or spliced into an eye-bolt in the bulwarks, the other end rove through the block in the sail, from out, in and through a fair-leader or sheave in the bulwarks.
With pendants, a piece of rope of sufficient size and length is middled, crossed, and a throat seizing passed round both parts, having an eye in the bight large enough to take a lashing. In each of these pendants, splice a single block; reeve a whip the same as in the double sheets. The pendants should be long enough to allow the weather one to hang slack on the fore-topmast stay, when the sheet is aft. (See Sail Table for iron clews.)
[32] Iron clews being fitted to all sails, the strap would be likely to chafe. I would recommend snug clump sister-hooks, or shackles, fitted to the clews.
=369.=--WRECKED IN A GALE.
When this sad fate appears inevitable, it would be well to make choice (if choice can be made), of what appears the best part of the coast, and the clearest from rocks, for beaching her.
The manner in which the boatmen beach their boats, is by laying them, with the assistance of the helm, half-broadside on, or rather bow and quarter on, having previously given the vessel a heel, or list in shore. This may be done either by trimming, or by the sallying of the crew, before the time that the vessel takes the ground. Such a position will offer the best means of saving the crew, who may also be materially assisted by cutting away the masts, so as to fall towards the shore, which may be the means of assisting those on board to reach the shore.
In establishing a communication with the shore, if it be by a boat, the end of the deep sea-lead line should be taken in her, or if it be by some good swimmer, with a cork jacket on, the end of the log line will serve the same purpose; by either of these, hawsers, or other large ropes may afterwards be got on shore.
The means of getting on shore from a wreck are by life boats, rafts, parts of the wreck, or life preservers.
A canvass cot, with large holes at the bottom, to admit the water to pass through freely, and having cross bars of thick rope, should also be kept in readiness for such an occasion.
Raw-hide rope will be the best for traveling grommets. Some other expedients might be mentioned, which are for the consideration of officers in charge of vessels.
=370.=--SETTING UP RIGGING AT SEA.
Whenever it is required to set up the lower shrouds, at sea, the topmast shrouds should be all let go; this practice is recommended upon the presumption that the lower rigging will not be cast loose, or set up on the occasion of a swell, or that the ship be rolling or pitching. It has been well observed, that by letting go two topmast shrouds at a time, an uneven strain has been brought upon the futtock;[33] which prevents the shrouds of the lower rigging being equally drawn down.
Upon all occasions of setting up the lower rigging at sea, it is always advisable to have ready prepared as many luffs as possible, so that the shrouds may be set up at a time, and that there may be no delay in shifting the tackles from shroud to shroud. When the lower rigging is up, the futtock plates should be beaten down to the top, and the shrouds set tautly up by means of tackles, ready hooked to their respective lanyards. The method of employing the Spanish windlass, for the purpose of setting up these shrouds, is not to be recommended. It occupies too much time, and often creates unnecessary delay before the topmast rigging can be set up. In staying the topmasts, the boatswain is not recommended to bouse too far forward the heads of the mast, and he should recollect that the angle formed by the main topmast stay, with the fore top, is considerably greater than that of the fore topmast with the bowsprit; and consequently that the lever of the former is more powerful than that of the latter.
Note.--Vessels not having catharpen legs, need not come up the topmast rigging for the purpose of setting up lower rigging, as the futtock-shrouds set up to the mast.
[33] This is only applicable to vessels having their futtock-rigging set up to their lower rigging.
=371.=--SLACKING THE JIB-STAY, IN BAD WEATHER.
The jib-stay is always set up as taut as a bar of iron; consequently, when it comes to a blow, both the spray of the sea and the rain tend to tauten it more; in pitching, too, it must assist to spring the boom, work the bowsprit, and cause unnecessary strain upon the rope itself. Whenever it blows so fresh that the jib is not likely to be set, the jib-stay should be slacked. If it be required subsequently to setting the sail, nothing can be easier than to set the stay up, while the jib is loosing. (Bear this in mind.)
=372.=--STOPPING OUT TOPGALLANT YARD ROPES.
The practice of permitting the topmen to stop the topgallant yard ropes out at their own convenience, and consequently at unstated periods, is at variance with that order and regularity which should ever characterize the duties and discipline of a vessel of war.
In well regulated ships, the officer of the watch, following the movements of the senior officers, directs the boatswain or his mates to pipe “out yard ropes;” if tripping-lines are tolerated, the yard rope and tripping-line men should lay out together: by pursuing this system the yards will be kept square, and will not (as is of constant occurrence), be seen for an hour and a half before sunset, topping in different directions. The same rule should be observed when placing on whips for hammock-girtlines, or clothes-lines.
=373.=--PREVENTER BRACES.
It is desirable to establish a general rule, that when the topsails are treble-reefed, the preventer braces are to be placed on the yards, and that the relieving tackles in the gun room be placed at hand ready for use.
=374.=--KEEPING A CLEAR ANCHOR.
That part of seamanship which relates to the method of tending a ship to the tide, or in other words of keeping the cable clear of the anchor, may not be inaptly termed the blind branch of the mariner’s art--the buoy floating on the surface being the only possible guide that the seaman possesses to point to the position of the anchor hidden under water.
From being little understood, and by young officers it is seldom put in practice, the art of keeping a clear anchor is by many considered a difficult task; but, were officers to give more attention to the matter, and to place less dependence on the master or pilot, they would soon attain every necessary knowledge to meet the most difficult tide case.
=375.=--ANCHOR TURNING IN THE GROUND.
In order to ensure the certainty of an anchor turning in the ground, with the tending or swinging of the ship, it is recommended (whenever it is possible), to resort to this practice: To shoot the ship on the same side of her anchor, at each change of tide; for if the anchor should not turn in the ground, the cable will get foul, either about the stock or upper fluke, and trip it out of ground. (Remember this).
=376.=--TO TEND TO A WEATHER-TIDE.
Let it be supposed that a ship is riding at single anchor, upon a lee-tide, with the wind in the same direction as the tide, and that it be required, upon the tide setting to windward, to tend the ship clear of the anchor. To effect this, as soon as the ship begins to feel the turn of the weather-tide, and that the vessel brings the wind broad on the weather-bow, the head sails should be hoisted, and the lee-sheets hauled aft, in order to shoot the ship from her anchor, on a taut cable. The helm must be put “a-lee,” and kept in that position until the tide sets the ship over to windward of her cable, and the buoy appears on the same side with the helm. If from light winds the buoy bears nearly a-beam, her head sails may be hauled down; but if the breeze be strong, and it causes the ship to shoot in a direction nearly end-on with that of the cable, bringing the buoy on her quarter, it will be necessary to keep the fore-topmast-staysail set, in order to check the vessel, should she be disposed to break her shear against the action of her helm, or be inclined to drop to windward and “go over” her anchor, in a broadside or lateral direction.
=377.=--A MAN OVERBOARD, AT SEA.
If the ship be going free, and particularly if fast through the water, it is recommended to bring-to with the head-yards a-back, for it is obvious if the main-yard be left square, the ship will be longer coming-to, will shoot farther, increase the distance from the man, and add materially to the delay of succor.
It will however require judgment, especially if blowing fresh, to be careful and right the helm in time, or the ship will fly-to too much, gain sternway, and risk the boat in lowering down.
The best authority recommends, that if possible, the ship should not only be hove a-back when a man falls overboard, but she ought to be brought around on the other tack; of course sail ought to be shortened in stays, and the main-yard kept square. This implies the ship being on a wind, or from the position of having the wind not above two points abaft the beam.
The great merit of such a method of proceeding, is, that if the evolution succeeds, the ship when round will drift towards the man, and although there may be some small risk in lowering the boat in stays from the ship, having at one period sternway, there will in fact be little time lost, if the boat be not lowered until the ship be well round, and the sternway at an end. There is more mischief done generally, by lowering the boat too soon, than by waiting until the fittest moment arrives for doing it coolly. It cannot be too often repeated, that almost the whole depends upon the self-possession of the officer of the deck.
=378.=--JIB AND STAYSAIL-HALLIARD. (Blocks at mast-head.)
For various reasons it is advisable to dispense with the cheek-blocks, which are usually fitted to the fore topmast-head, for the purpose of reeving the above two ropes, together with the fore topmast staysail-halliards. In the first place, if the fore-topmast be sprung, or carried away in chase, and it be required to shift the mast with all possible speed, considerable time is taken up in removing and replacing cheek-blocks at the mast-head. (See allowance-table, Blocks.)
Note.--In some ships the jib and fore-topmast staysail-halliards are rove through gins fitted for the purpose. Gins, however, are not supplied in all ships, but you can always fit fiddle-blocks under the eyes of your rigging; your jib and staysail-halliards reeve in the upper sheaves, and the topsail-buntlines in the lower ones. Cheek-blocks answer well on the trestle-trees.
=379.=--TO KEEP THE HAWSE CLEAR WHEN MOORED.
When it is nearly slack water, cant her with the helm the right way, and if necessary, make use of jib, spanker, and yards.
=380.=--TO TEND TO WINDWARD--SINGLE ANCHOR.
When the tide slacks, sheer her with the helm, run up the jib and fore-topmast staysail, with weather-sheets aft; when canted the right way, the lee-sheets may be hauled aft, and the yards filled, thus setting her abreast to a taut cable; when the buoy is on the lee-quarter, brace the head-yards to the wind, and fill the after ones; when the tide swings her head around so as to shake the sails, haul down and stow them.
=381.=--TO TEND TO LEEWARD.
As the tide slackens, sheer her to the same side of the buoy on which she came to windward, and fill the yards, which will set her end-on over the cable; she will now by the effect of the wind, bring her stern over the cable, and bring the buoy on her weather-quarter; put the helm “a-weather,” and she will shoot ahead, tautening the cable, by sheering her head from the wind. When the wind gets a little aft the beam, hoist the jib, to prevent the cable from drawing her head to wind.
Let her lay in this position until she falls off; when the headsails shake, haul down and stow them.
=382.=--TO BACK SHIP--(AT ANCHOR).
As the tide slacks, sheer her to windward, sheet-home and set the mizen-topsail; thus she will back round to leeward as soon as the tide sets up; clew up and furl the mizen-topsail.
=383.=--TO BREAK THE SHEAR.
When tending to the tide, and the ship comes over her anchor, she may break her shear by canting her stern the wrong way; when this is the case put the helm “a-weather,” run the jib up, fill the head-yards, and the after-yards kept-to. Everything is now arranged to bring her round again, when she must be managed as before mentioned.
=384.=--ON GETTING TO SEA.
Unship the man-ropes, stow them away, secure the gangways, pay down the messenger, and secure anchors and boats. The anchors ought to be secured with preventer stoppers, and painters, particularly where they work with a slip-shackle or tricker, which a rope catching, may drag or drive out. In fact the jib-sheet is apt to do this if not looked to.
Wash and dry the nippers, then stow them away; wash down the anchors and buoys, and black them as soon as possible; when clear of the land, unbend cables, buoys, and buoy-ropes, and ship the blind-buckles, unless prevented by peculiar circumstances.
Take off the harbor-gaskets and have them repaired and blackened afresh, when convenient. If the bunt-gaskets, however, are retained on the yards, roll them up snug and secure them. Put the sea-gaskets on, make them up in cheises, and keep them before the yards.
Place bunt-line spans to their respective yards.
Have the boats’ sails and awnings dried and put below.
Quarter-boats clear for lowering.
Besides these, the watch on deck, when not employed in more pressing duties, may be occupied to much advantage as follows, viz.:
1_st._ Exercising small-arms, cutlasses and guns;
2_d._ Pointing all ropes requiring it;
3_d._ Working up a sufficient quantity of junk, into seizing-stuff, mats, swabs, foxes, thumb-lines, knittles, gaskets, reef-points, nippers, salvagees, straps, &c., &c.
=385.=--ON FIRE REGULATIONS IN THE MERCHANT-SERVICE.
We now come to the most important of all the regulations in a ship, namely, those which operate against the fatal and shocking effects of fire. Whatever good results from stationing people in ordinary cases, cannot be put in competition with this, which provides against the most dreadful catastrophe incident to a ship. From the number of unfortunate accidents of this nature we surely ought to be prepared to our utmost for such an event.
First, by internal precautions; and
Secondly, by the means to be used against the danger.
Let there be great attention in the use of fire and lights.--The regulations on these subjects which exist in men of war are still more required in merchant vessels.
Fires should be put out at eight P. M., and all lights at nine P. M., except those required for the binnacle, and on deck.
The officer of the last dog-watch ought to report the fire extinguished to the captain.
As each man is relieved from the wheel, he should examine below, and report “all well” to the officer of the watch.
No naked light whatever ought to be permitted; let either lanterns or lamps be used.
Spirits should be drawn off by day; a naked light should on no account be permitted near a spirit cask.
Smoking should not be allowed below. I have known more than one ship set on fire by a man’s pipe; and by segars, I have no doubt many have been burnt.
In stowing a hold, do not allow naked lights to be used, nor any person to smoke there when so employed.
On receiving cotton as a cargo, both those who ship as well as those who receive it, ought to ascertain that it is in a safe state before it be put on board. I have known instances of its being sold and moved away, when, in a few hours, if it had not been moved, it would have ignited.
I am acquainted with the particulars of a ship that was burnt some years since, where oil had been stowed in the hold with cotton over it, with what was considered safe and secure dunnage between. The cotton, notwithstanding, absorbed a quantity of oil, became heated, and ignited. The crew with difficulty saved themselves in the boats before the flames burst forth, and the vessel was entirely consumed.
Chests containing bottles of inflammable substances, such as vitriol, &c., cannot be too well secured. A medicine chest upset in a gale may set fire to a ship.
Friction matches should never be allowed on board a ship.
The coals in steamers have frequently taken fire, and in many cases with the most fatal consequences. Too much care cannot be taken in the selection of coals; a strict examination ought to be made as to their state when received and stowed, and no suspicious circumstances should be then overlooked. When receiving coals, avoid throwing the fresh ones on the old, which ought to be kept uppermost, and first for use. When once they become ignited, I can hardly offer a remedy for the evil.
When coals take fire, some people throw water upon them, and smother the fire by wet beds. Hot water, or steam, if they can be used, are more expeditious than cold water in extinguishing fire, I believe. To attempt to discharge the coals, would allow the air freer access, and would be certain to increase the power of the fire.
A few canvass buckets, with long lanyards, should be always prepared and ready on deck for drawing water.
When a fire is first discovered, shorten all low sails directly, courses up, stay-sails and wind-sails down, boat-covers taken off.
If the sails should take fire from lightning, or any other cause, cutting away the mast appears the most likely method of saving the ship.
At first, endeavor if possible, to stifle the fire; which may be best done by shutting off any draught of air, and smothering it with wet bedding, small sails, &c., until a good supply of water can be applied.
If the fire is forward, put before the wind until it is necessary to “out boats,” then bring-to.
If the fire is aft, or a-midships, keep to the wind.
=386.=--STATION BILL FOR FIRE, IN THE MERCHANT SERVICE.[34]
Coolness and steadiness in any misfortune by fire are essential to arrest it.
If a fire break out below, the hatchways should be immediately covered, to prevent a draught of air.
Ring the ship’s bell to call the men to their stations.
====================================================================== MEN’S NAMES. DUTIES.
A very steady man ---- To the helm.
{First, to cover hatchways with gratings {and tarpaulins. The carpenter, and one { man. {Secondly, to rig pumps and lead hoses; and { {Thirdly, get the tools ready for cutting {away, if required.
The chief mate, boatswain, {To attend where the fire is, and pass and ship’s cook. {water to it, &c.
A man of each watch or {To the pumps, and to draw water as for more. {washing decks.
A boy. {To collect all the buckets to the part {where the water is being drawn.
{First duty to haul up courses, brail up {trysails and spanker. Remainder of starboard { watch. {Second duty, draw and pass water with the {fire buckets; then for third duty see {below.
{First duty, to haul up courses, brail up {trysails and spanker. Remainder of larboard { watch. {Second duty, to soak small sails and {bedding to throw over and smother the {fire; then for third duty see below.
Cabin steward, and cabin {If any powder or other combustibles are on boy. {board, to throw them overboard if {possible, or drown them.
Second mate to direct fire {If the fresh water is in tanks, turn the hose, and the supply of {waste-valves[35] of two of them for a water from deck. {first supply for the pump, and then go to {direct fire hose, &c.
{Third duties of the crew, the yard and The crew. {stay-tackles to be got up ready for {getting out boats.
{Fourth duties of the crew, if the fire {appears to increase, out boats, and lower The crew. {down the quarter boats; let them lay off {in a string to windward, with a man and a {boy as keepers, ready for the rest of the {crew if required.
The captain ---- To attend at all the stations as he deems best.
If the ship cannot be saved, the passengers and crew are the first objects, with some fresh water and biscuit; a compass, quadrant and Bowditch. Unless there is sufficient time, and it can be done without endangering the sea-worthiness of the boats, nothing should be taken that is not essential to the mere preservation of life, and necessary for navigating the boats.
[34] This bill ought to be written out or printed, and hung up for every one’s inspection.
[35] The mate ought to have the key of the valves of the water tanks in his own keeping.
=387.=--TAKING TO THE BOATS.
The captain should in his own mind, and by a private memorandum, station the passengers and crew to the boats on board, and likewise make the persons here specified be responsible for having the following articles put into the boats.
======================================================================
{Compass, Maury on Navigation, sextant, Captain. {spyglass, Nautical Almanac, pencils and {writing paper, general chart, pocket {watch, pair of compasses, &c.
{Oars, masts, sails, boat-hooks, bolt of First mate. {canvass, boat’s compass, Bowditch’s chart, {ensign.
{Two or three bags of biscuits, some {breakers of water, quadrant, pencils and Second mate. {writing paper, half-gill measure, a {musket, box of cartridges, and flints or {caps.
Surgeon ---- Pocket instruments.
{Hammer, nails, sheet-lead, grease, Carpenter. {fearnought, oakum, saw, chisel, {turn-screw, cold chisel, a vial of sweet {oil, any small iron rod.
{Coil of inch rope, long reel, deep-sea Third mate, or boatswain. {reel, painted canvass, marling-spikes, {spun-yarn, &c.
Sail maker. {Palm, needles, twine, fishing-lines, {hooks, painted canvass, boat’s awning.
{Tinder-box, flints and tinder, small box, Cook, and steward. {lantern and candles, cheese, cabin {biscuit, chocolate.
Each person. {A tin pot, a pocket knife, a change of {flannels and stockings.
With a scarcity of food, savages attempt to lessen the cravings of hunger by tightening a belt around the waist; and by sucking a pebble they in some degree alleviate thirst. Chewing tobacco may also be serviceable under such circumstances. In such emergencies all must fare alike.
=388.=--LOSING A RUDDER AT A CRITICAL MOMENT, (_such as crossing a Bar, &c._)
A ship might lose her rudder at a critical moment in crossing the bar of a river, when a few minutes more might run her aground, if she were unmanageable; and in this case, what temporary rudder is best becomes a question for which a few moments only are given to decide. The plan of steering by the stream-cable payed out astern, or by the stern-boat lowered instantly, with the plug out, and towed astern by a hawser, with guys leading up to each quarter, would perhaps then be adopted; while a ship losing her rudder at sea would have leisure to adopt any other plan.
It might be an advantage, if every vessel would take some opportunity of trying how she could steer with a stern-boat in the manner described, and what length of tow-line was required to enable her to steer the most easily, so as to avoid wild yawing. The experiment might be made in moderate weather with the wind on the quarter, and also right aft, under top-sails, top-gallant-sails and fore-sail, running five or six knots. Nothing gives confidence so much as practice.
=389.=--STEAMERS GETTING AGROUND.
As steamers would probably do so with very fresh way on, they ought at once to stop their engines, but on no account to attempt to reverse them, until the extent of the injury be ascertained; otherwise they may go down in deep water. Their first duty is to out boats, and place the passengers in safety in them; the crew might then ascertain the state of the vessel; if she is likely to float, and can be got off, the attempt to do so should be made; but if not, the crew can take to the boats.
=390.=--ON THE DUTY OF REMAINING BY A DAMAGED VESSEL.
When two vessels have run foul of each other, the one which is the least injured is bound, by every sense of justice and humanity, to stay by the other to render every assistance in her power; a contrary proceeding ought to make the guilty party liable to some punishment. If one appears likely to sink, the boat lashings should be cut, that the boat or boats may be got out or float off.
When freshly blows the northern gales, Then under courses snug we fly; When lighter breezes swell the sails, Then royals proudly sweep the sky.
VII. MISCELLANEOUS SUBJECTS
=391.=--ON SQUARING YARDS.
Simple as may seem the process of squaring yards, it is nevertheless a piece of duty which requires considerable precision, and this precision can never be obtained without a knowledge of the principle upon which the yards should be squared. A boatswain, ignorant of this principle, will generally proceed thus: he first bouses taut the lower trusses, squares the yards by the braces, and, quite regardless of the distance of the topsail-yards from their respective caps, or looking to see if the yards are a-midships, directs the chief boatswain’s mate to take his station on the end of the jib-boom, whilst he himself proceeds in the boat ahead of the ship to square the yards by the lifts. Should the fore-yard be required to be topped to starboard, the boatswain will top away upon the yard-arm until, by chance, he discovers he has topped it too high; to remedy this eye sore, he sings out “Fore-yard to port,” and tops until he raises the larboard arm as high as the starboard; producing by this system of topping, and never settling, a most unsightly bow in the yard. He then squares the fore-topsail yard by the bowed fore-yard, and of course treats the fore-topsail yard to a bit of a bend likewise. He then takes the main yard in hand, which, though probably square by the lifts, can no longer look so in his eye, because the yard arms are not made to cock up like those of the fore yard. “Main yard to starboard,” he sings out, with an audible voice; the lift is topped several feet to starboard, and then to port, until the yard assumes the desired cock the boatswain has in his eye in squaring the loftier yards by the lifts. Boatswains seldom take the precaution to place hands to tend the top-gallant braces. It should be remembered that the topping of the lifts alter and disturb the square position of the yards by the braces. These may appear minute matters, but unless they be strictly observed, yards never can be properly squared.
In squaring yards by the lifts, the lanyards should always be unrove to two or three turns, the jigger hooked to them and hauled taut; and when topping on one lift always ease the opposite lanyard with the jigger; if not, the lanyard will render with jerks, and the yard will probably have to be topped the opposite way. The lanyards should be rocked when sufficiently up, the plan of nipping with hands being a lazy, bad practice; and after much time spent in getting the yards nicely squared, the lanyards have come up in securing. The ropes should be all hauled taut before the boat comes on board; all the ropes coiled neatly and low in the tops; nothing allowed to hang over the bows, which should be kept quite clear; and everything done to make the ship appear in every respect what a man-of-war ought to be.
Being particular in one part and not in another, has almost a worse appearance than slovenly altogether. As the ship is considered a would-be man-of-war, and is the cause of many remarks, which, if heard by the commanding officer, would not be at all complimentary to his nautical knowledge, if anything should be studied more than another, it is the standing rigging and position of the masts and yards, &c., &c.
Note.--Before squaring the yards, the boatswain is recommended to see that the masts, and particularly the lofty spars, are upright and all in one. It frequently happens that after the boatswain has squared all the yards, fore and aft, he detects an awkward inclination in one of the topgallant-masts; he nevertheless returns on board, and reports to the senior lieutenant, yards squared and ropes taut, but afterwards desires the captain of the top to get a pull on the starboard or larboard top-gallant breast-backstay, forgetting that this very pull affects the top-gallant lifts, and consequently alters the position of the yards. The first thing after the masts are all in one, or upright, as you choose to term it, is to get your yards exactly amidships by rolling-tackles; then get them snugly trussed to the mast, and square them by the braces, before proceeding ahead of the ship.
=392.=--UP TOP-GALLANT MASTS AND YARDS--(The Masts, &c. being on deck.)
One watch of topmen aloft, to get jack or tail blocks on, for yard ropes, as also for flying jib and staysail halliards; if the sails are about to be loosed, have jiggers on the topgallant stays, ready for setting up, and burtons overhauled, ready for clapping on the mast ropes; in fidding, the other watch see everything clear, and get tackles on the backstays, ready for setting up the instant the mast is stayed.
WORDS OF COMMAND.
“All hands, up topgallant-masts and yards,”--and loose sails if requisite.
“Sway away,”--let the masts wait for each other, after placing the topgallant rigging, so that they may afterwards ascend uniformly, and be fidded together. Instantly the fids are in, stay topgallant-masts, and set up the quarter, or standing backstays; then without waiting for more of the rigging, proceed to cross topgallant-yards alone, along with the loosing of the sails, as may be requisite, and as is described in 394.
Remarks.--The mast-heads and eyes of the rigging, or funnels, should be greased.
If topgallant-sails are unbent, and royal yard-ropes good, it will make the work of crossing topgallant-yards all the easier, to use royal in place of topgallant-yard ropes.
If there be no capshore, the topmast cap is apt to droop forward, and by catching and jaming the topgallant-masts, to interfere materially in the attempt to send them up smartly; the caps ought therefore to be well looked after. If the topgallant, royal, and skysail masts, be all in one, it is generally found necessary to let fall the bunts of the topsails, in order to get the masts up; at sea the yards must be braced up, the topsails lowered two-thirds down, and the mast sent up to windward.
=393.=--DOWN TOPGALLANT-MASTS AND YARDS.
One watch, or part of a watch of topmen, aloft, to clear away the topgallant rigging, unreeve flying-jib and staysail-halliards, get jack or tail-blocks on, for royal and topgallant yard-ropes, and burtons on the mast-ropes.
The other watch of topmen on deck, unlace the backstay-mats, and slack the backstay lanyards.
When ready, “sway away,” two hands at the mast-head looking out for the fids, the lanyards of which they should be cautioned to see fast; and two on topsail-yard to bear the heel clear, and make fast heel-rope.
When the fids are out, hang the backstays to the tops, lower all the masts together, and get heel-ropes on, which should be in readiness, from the deck to the fid-holes.
If the rigging does not start easily, sway and surge without delay; clap on the lizard through the royal-halliard sheave-hole, as soon as it can be got at; then lower the masts on deck, either placing them fore and aft, or up and down the lower masts.
Haul the rigging and backstays taut down from the mastheads, and stop them down along the topmast rigging, coiling away the slack bights snug in the tops; also haul taut the stays and all the small ropes.
See that the trucks are fairly placed, so that the signal-halliards may traverse freely.
If the masts are only housed, haul the topgallant rigging and backstays taut, as above, but stay the royal-masts, and sheepshank and set up the royal backstays and shrouds, if there be any, or what is preferable, stop the slack part in bights, and then set up; also steady the heels of the topgallant-masts to the topmast by a heel-rope.
Remarks.--The yards, according to circumstances, may be either sent down at the moment you begin to lower the masts, or at that when you begin to sway the masts, in order to take out the fid. The former has the best effect, but in that case it is essential to have picked hands to lower, and not to commence lowering until the lower yard-arm is unrigged.
=394.=--CROSSING TOPGALLANT AND ROYAL-YARDS, AND LOOSING SAIL.
That all the squadron may be prepared to cross yards and loose sail at eight, or for any other manœuvre, deemed proper at the hoisting of the colors, the flag ship sometimes makes it a rule to designate seven bells, that is 7 H. 30 M., by giving the preparatory signal. The squadron have then an opportunity of regulating their time by the Commodore’s, and making such preparations for eight as may be necessary.
If this be done, and another very proper rule enforced, viz.: the allowing no one, on any account, to be aloft between five minutes before eight, and the time of making the signal, every ship will be upon an equal footing in the keen competition which immediately ensues.
PREPARATIONS.
Send the hands aloft to overhaul the lifts and braces; prepare studding-sail-booms for tricing up, bend the top bowlines to the buntline toggles, overhaul the gear of the courses, coiling it snug down on the lower yards, and take the cloths and half the gaskets off the fore and aft sail; also stretch along and reeve the yard-ropes.
WORDS OF COMMAND.
“All hands, cross yards and loose sails;”
“Aloft, topmen;”
“Aloft, sail loosers;”
Sway out of the chains--viz.: upper topgallant yard-arms clear of top-rims, or lubber’s-hole; royal yard-arms clear of cross-trees.
“Sway away;” trice up, lay out.
“Sway across--let fall,”--the men at the same time hoisting jibs and staysails, hauling out the bowlines, getting down the squaring-marks of topgallant and royal lifts and braces, and hoisting ensign, jack, and pendant.
A boat should then be manned without delay, for the boatswain to go ahead, look at the yards, see the head-sails taut up, the bowline properly out, and everything ready for shortening sail.
If the bowlines are not to be hauled out, and, in consequence, the jibs and staysails not hoisted, nor the sheets of trysail and spanker hauled aft, proceed as follows, viz.:--
Keep fast the topsail clewlines, and haul up the buntlines; throw the jibs out off the booms without touching the halliards, and slack off the trysail and spanker-brails; overhaul the brails on one side and haul them up--on the other loose the small sails enough for the wind to blow through, which will prevent their heating, and even should it rain slightly, will avert much harm.
Remark.--The frequent loosing of the sails is essential, to prevent them from mildewing, particularly when new, and before the gum has been shaken out.
=395.=--TOPMAST CARRIED AWAY.
I would recommend vessels to use curb-chain, for parrels for topsail-yards; let it be wormed, parceled and covered with leather; the seizings must be frequently examined. Carrying away a parrel may occasion a serious loss of life, should there happen to be any men on the yard at the time, and even if there are not, this accident is very likely to carry away the topmast.
The funnels used for top-gallant rigging, are frequently used for topmast rigging; they are also very serviceable, and if a topmast is carried away, the funnel is then invaluable, as the topmast may be shifted so much more quickly, the rigging remaining properly placed.
=396.=--CLEARING THE WRECK OF A TOPMAST.
Watch on deck to secure the wreck, and prevent its doing injury--watch below to shorten sail. Hook top-blocks, reeve in them two hawsers; the stoutest to leeward, for passing round and securing the wreck, in order to get the rigging &c. in-board.
Hook luff-tackles in the lower pendants--let the other topgallant yards be sent down, and the topgallant masts housed until the topmast is shifted. If it be a fore-topmast that is carried away, ease in the jib-boom--cut the lanyards of the topmast rigging, securing the dead-eyes by studding-sail-halliards.
The weather-hawser may be employed to unfid the stump.
=397.=--CARRYING AWAY A JIB-BOOM.
Send down the fore-topgallant-yard, and house the fore-topgallant-mast; use the fore-topmast staysail-halliards, and lee-fore-bowline, for securing and getting in the wreck.
=398.=--TO FISH A LOWER YARD IN THE SHORTEST TIME.
Incalculable are the evils which may result to a vessel from the springing or snapping of a lower yard, especially the fore one.
If the yard be severed, get both pieces down on deck, and place them together, to assume, as near as possible, their original position. Hollow out, so as to fit the cylindrical surface of the yard, two spare anchor-stock pieces, (or two proper fishes always fitted, and to be kept as spare stores), in doing which, a depth of two or three inches will suffice; place one piece on the top, and the other secured to the under part of the yard, towards the extremities; dub down the superfluous wood, and round the edges, ready to receive the requisite wooldings.
Previous to boring holes for the bolts, set close-to the anchor-stock pieces, with wedge upon wedge; introduce then eight bolts, of three-quarter inch diameter, which must be severally clinched. Cut scores for eight wooldings, and woold away with well-stretched rope, of two-and-a-half inch. The yard may then be replaced aloft. There will be found no necessity for studding-sail booms, or other spare spars.
=399.=--EXPECTATION OF LOSING A LOWER MAST.
Every vessel should have a spare lower cap on board; it should be in two parts (for the convenience of stowing), with bolts for securing it together.
In the event of losing a lower mast, the cap put on the spare topmasts, and then raised on the stump of the lower mast (having been previously fitted for it), at once enables a jury mast to be stopped and secured; clap on a good heel lashing.
Those vessels which have lower dead-eyes secured to the side, are enabled to get clear of the wreck of a lower mast more readily than those with the old channels and chain plates. Those which are fitted in the last mentioned manner, when likely to lose a lower mast, should reeve a hawser through the lanyards of the rigging on each side, and have it well secured; they will then be enabled to disengage the lanyards from the channels, and get clear of the wreck, whose thumping might otherwise injure either the ship’s bottom or rudder.
=400.=--LYING-TO IN A GALE, AFTER THE LOSS OF MASTS.
Put a stout span on a spare topmast or other large spar, and veer a long scope on a hawser, or stream chain-cable, from the bow, by a spring on it from aft; it may be used for wearing. The wreck of a mast would answer well for lying-to with, and when the weather became fine, the spars and rigging would materially assist in refitting jury masts.
=401.=--SPARS TO CONVERT IN CASE OF NEED.
Officers will do well to consider what spars they have on board which can be the most readily and efficiently converted, so as to supply the place of any which may be lost.
A spare topmast, or if in a brig, a main-boom, are the spars that could be the most quickly converted into a jury lower mast, or bowsprit; a mizen-mast would be still better, if the weather would permit its being shifted.
A topmast studding-sail boom, with the sail as a lug, makes a sufficiently good mizen.
If the bowsprit is sprung, let the jib-boom be eased in nearly to the bulwark. When a vessel is lying-to, and there is a heavy sea running, it would be prudent to have tackles up for steadying the foremast, as in the event of the bowsprit being struck, and either sprung or carried away, the mast would be saved.
A jib-boom will answer well for making a topsail yard.
Note.--It is surprising how well vessels answer when jury rigged, and in many cases will sail nearly as fast as when they have their proper masts, yards, and sails.
Sails may be reduced by taking out midship cloths, and by the head for depth.
When vessels take the ground, from a falling tide, or any other cause, they ought to be prepared with three shores on a side, the lower ends a little off.
The first abreast the foremast;
The second amidships;
The third abaft the main-sheet sheave.
A measure should be previously taken of the exact depth from the bulwark to the ground. The lower end of the shores require some weight, and a flat piece for a shoe secured on each, if the ground is soft. On the upper end of each shore there should be a cleat on the fore side and after side, for securing the lashing to the bulwark.
For small vessels, two shores on each side would be sufficient; one might be under the fore, and one under the main channel. The preparation of shores will be found to be a very useful one; many vessels fall over on the water leaving them, and then run considerable risk of filling, or not righting again.
=402.=--GETTING AGROUND.
If a vessel gets aground (the weather being moderate), first get over the spare topmasts on one side, and the jib-boom on the other, as shores abreast of the mainmast, or a little before it; secure some weight to the heel of each; a few shot, or a light pig of ballast will do for that purpose, and if the ground is soft, nail on a piece of plank as a shoe. Furl sails, out all boats, down topgallant yards, and send topgallant masts on deck; start water, and pump it out; lay out a bower anchor; be sure that it is so laid that the ship does not ground on it.
Every officer should make himself well acquainted with the readiest mode of hanging and carrying out a bower anchor, as far as relates to the weight of those belonging to his own vessel, and the description of boats he has to use. If he cannot heave off, he must then endeavor to lighten the vessel by discharging part of the cargo.
Before heaving off, an examination ought to be made, so as to ascertain, as near as possible, the extent of the injury which the vessel has received since aground, if the shore be rocky, that it may be remedied before heaving off, if possible; if the vessel has run on with much way, it is possible that she may not float, even if she were got off. In this case the lives of the passengers and crew become the first consideration.
=403.=--THE BALLAST SHIFTING AT SEA.
This frequently occasions losses at sea. To prevent its occurrence, when iron ballast is stowed, let a few oak battens be nailed from the sides athwart ships, to secure it; or when shingle ballast is used, place a light flooring over it, secured by a few battens athwart ships. This would most probably prevent such a calamity, which usually occurs when a vessel is struck by a heavy sea, or when hove on her beam ends, and prevents the possibility of her righting again; when the ballast is stowed, it ought to be secured at the same time from shifting; this is of great moment, and a few strong battens will do it. Also have shifting boards amidships, nailed to the stanchions.
=404.=--VESSELS SURPRISED ON OPPOSITE TACKS.
In cases of surprise and danger, from the accidental meeting of two ships on opposite tacks, in the night, it too often happens that officers are more apt to give orders to the stranger, than to take any measure of precaution themselves; such as hailing to put the helm up or down, and to clear them, when they may be as much in fault, and possess the same means of extricating themselves from the difficulty. In situations of this sort, it is much better that both parties should put their helms down rather than up; the ships will approach each other for a time, but will diminish in velocity, and afterwards separate.
Obstinacy, or a want of judgment in the directing parties, frequently leads both vessels to bear up at the same instant; consequently causing immediate collision. It is a universal rule with seamen, that where there is doubt, the vessel on the larboard tack is to bear up or to heave about, for the vessel on the starboard tack; were this prudent regulation strictly adhered to, and never violated by the obstinacy of parties, accidents would seldom occur; but it sometimes happens that incidental circumstances induce both parties to risk “a trial of skill,” by one endeavoring to weather the other. In these cases doubt and hesitation generally prevail, and disaster is sure to follow.
=405.=--MEETING AT SEA.
Bend on the ensign and pendant, if a private ship.
Hoist the ensign and pendant, when sufficiently near, if the vessel you are meeting be a ship of war.
In hailing, the ordinary questions commence thus;
“What ship is that?”
“Whence come you?”
“Where are you bound?” &c., &c.
=406.=--A HINT ON RUNNING TOO LONG.
Vessels ought not to run too long, when the sea is high and breaking, but bring-to in time, and do so by daylight if possible.
=407.=--A HINT ON ROUNDING-TO IN A GALE.
An experienced seaman remarks, that when he wished to bring-to in a hard gale, when running before a heavy sea, he always watched for a heavy sea breaking abaft the main chains, and immediately after, he eased the helm down, and rounded-to at once, being previously prepared for doing so. In managing this way, he found he could avoid shipping a sea.
=408.=--ON MAKING YOUR PORT.
Never run for your port in very heavy gales, or thick weather, unless sure of the ship’s position.
Note.--There are some ports, that may be entered with safety at night by sailing vessels, but there are many more where it cannot be attempted, without great risk of getting aground, or being wrecked.
I do not know anything to compensate for running that risk, except an urgent necessity; as, when anchored, nothing can be done until morning. Lay-to in preference, and carry a light at the main-stay at night. Gales do not last long, and finer weather follows.
While lying-to in gales, always keep the ship steering with the helm nearly “amidships,”--never let it be kept “a lee,” as the ship will not be under command without steerage-way, or be safe and easy.
=409.=--LYING OFF, AND ON, TO ENTER A PORT.
I have known so many vessels wrecked while lying-to with a topsail to the mast, with their head in shore, that I recommend (if it is moderate weather), to make short tacks, under easy sail, as then the ship’s place can always be kept worked up; whereas her drift while lying-to is uncertain. Let the tacks in shore be shorter than the ones off, to give the coast a good berth. It is better to be a mile further out than to get aground.
=410.=--TO ANCHOR AND VEER A LONG SCOPE OF CABLE.
Whenever, and wherever you anchor, veer a long scope of cable at once,--never lay short unless when getting underweigh. No ship ought to lay at single anchor for more than a few hours. Moor with a whole cable each way, as soon as possible. All vessels ought to have swivels, and moor with one, to keep a clear hawse.
Bend the sheet-cable, and see the anchor clear for letting go as soon as you have moored. In the winter, be prepared for striking lower yards and topmasts, if necessary.
=411.=--PREPARATIONS FOR GOING INTO HARBOR.
The paint work outside should be scrubbed, and, if the weather permit, freshen up where most wanted--for instance, under the bows. The masts should be scraped and properly stayed, the tips of studding-sail booms painted, and the rigging slightly touched with blacking, when brown or worn. The good order of the ratlines should be attended to, swinging-boom ladders and pendants got ready, and all the chafing-gear taken off. The boats’ sails and awnings should be clean and ready for use, the masts and oars scraped, scrubbed, or painted, as required; the smokesail clean, also the wind-sails. Clean hammocks may be slung, and neatly stowed. The cables (including the sheet, if it blows hard), should be bent in plenty of time, &c. &c. The ship’s company clean and in uniform--the accommodation ladder got ready, and in good order for shipping when at anchor.
=412.=--CAUTIONS AT NIGHT--(LOOKOUTS).
A good lookout should be kept at night. As soon as it is dark, every vessel should carry a light under the fore-top; this should be a rule, and not even left optional. If this light were carried in a lantern with green glass, the distinguishing light of a sailing vessel would be known. Steamers on the coast, bays, or harbors, usually carry wheel-house lights, as well as a mast-head one.
The sea-going steamers mostly carry two horizontal lights--they are therefore easily distinguished. Sailing vessels on the coast ought always to have a light kept on deck (in a tub or bucket, for shading it), ready to be shown, as steamers sometimes come up astern.
A musket loaded with blank cartridge is useful as a signal to call attention, and should be kept ready at hand.
A vessel on the starboard tack should show a light at the lee-cathead. A vessel on the larboard tack should show a light on the weather cathead.
=413.=--WHEN TWO VESSELS ARE IN COLLISION.
If in a tide’s way, and in less than ten fathoms, the headmost one should anchor either with a stream or bower, as most convenient.
If on soundings from thirty to ten fathoms, the headmost vessel should drop a kedge-anchor.
If vessels get foul of each other in deep water (should the weather be sufficiently moderate), get a boat ahead of the headmost and another astern of the sternmost, and two apart in opposite ways.
If a vessel anchor too close in another’s hawse, the one next ahead of her should send her a tow-line, with which she might pass a hawser on board to enable her to warp clear.
=414.=--SQUALLS--(CAUTION).
They usually give some notice by gathering up black in the horizon. If the darkness rises up and thins away at the bottom, it will not be strong; but if it still continues thick in the horizon, expect wind. Shorten sail before it comes. Clouds high, with hard edges, denote dry and strong winds. A large halo around the moon betokens high wind. Be guarded when clouds pass overhead--the strength of the wind is then very often most felt.
=415.=--WATER SPOUTS--(CAUTION).
A water-spout appears like a speaking-trumpet, with the small ends downwards. (It is said the concussion caused by firing guns is likely to disperse it.) If one should be near, and likely to break on board, clew-up and furl all (see the topsail clew-lines are afterwards belayed) batten the hatches, have scupper clear and pumps ready, and spar-deck ports out.
=416.=--PRESSURE OF WATER AT DIFFERENT DEPTHS.
If a ship has the flattest part of her bottom lying sixteen feet deep (which is often the case), the water then presses sixteen times as much upwards against this flat part, as it does upon any part of the same ship about the waters’ edge; and so on any other part, according to the depth. For example, suppose this ship to have four leaks, or plug holes of equal size, that could be driven out occasionally--the first at one foot under water, the second at four feet, the third at nine feet, and the lowest at sixteen feet, in the flat part of her bilge; that hole at four feet deep would leak or let in as much water again, in the same time, as that at one foot; and that at nine feet, three times as much; and that at sixteen feet, four times as much, though it run into the ship upwards; and so on in proportion to the square root of the height of the water above the leak or plug hole. Therefore leaks in ships are more or less dangerous, according to their depth under water.
Note.--On first springing a leak, it will rush in faster until the water inside is as high as the place where the leak is; and will pour in less the higher it gets inside.
=417.=--ON STOPPING LEAKS.
If we reflect on the present mode, so constantly practiced, of watering, by means of a canvass hose from the shore, through the salt-water into the boat, we can have little doubt of the retentive power of canvass. When it can be at all ascertained where a leak is situated (provided it be not too near the keel, or too much in the run), if it be in any part where you can bring a sail in contact with it, so as to cover it, remember that a canvass hose, when once saturated, becomes tolerably water-tight. If part of a sail of No. 1 canvass be doubled and brought by ropes to cover the leak, though it may not stop it, there can be no doubt it will materially assist in reducing it.
This canvass must be well and strongly roped and stitched together, and it had better not be too large; the smaller it is, (provided the purpose be answered), the better; as it will be less likely to be torn away. In placing it, the rope ought to be outwards. This double canvass may be placed in its position by ropes under the keel or out of the hawse-hole. A sail might be used for this purpose.
=418.=--EXAMINATION OF CHAIN CABLES.
The cables must be got on deck, pins and bolts driven out of the shackles, and well cleaned and white leaded; every link sounded with a hammer by the armorer, and some of the lengths transposed. Splicing pieces and spare shackles should be remembered at the same time, and treated in the same way.
Note.--Wooden pins are frequently used in connecting the shackles, not being liable to rust, and can always be taken out easy. Hickory is the best wood to make them of.
=419.=--MINUTE GUNS.
If more than one ship be present, minute guns are not usually fired by all at the same time, as in a common salute, but one ship follows another, taking up the firing in succession.
The interval between the firing of each two guns must of course be determined by the number of guns to be fired, and the time through which they are to be prolonged--a point which is optional, and sometimes extended through the day.
=420.=--HOISTING ON BOARD MONEY OR PLATE.
In hoisting on board money, plate, or other valuables, a buoy and buoy-rope, corresponding to the depth of water, ought always to be attached thereto, that in case of anything giving way, or the money or plate going to the bottom, there may be a ready means of recovery at hand. For boxes of treasure, strong nets, in place of slings, are most useful and most safe.
Note.--Money nets are made like a common wad-net, excepting that the meshes are made smaller and the stuff larger, say of a two-inch rope.