Opening
Transcriber’s Notes
Texts printed in italics, bold face or blackletter have been transcribed between underscores, =equal signs= and ~tildes~ respectively. Small capitals have been transcribed as ALL CAPITALS.
THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; OR, YOUNG SAILORS’ ASSISTANT.
APPERTAINING TO THE PRACTICAL EVOLUTIONS OF MODERN SEAMANSHIP, RIGGING, KNOTTING, SPLICING, BLOCKS, PURCHASES, RUNNING-RIGGING, AND OTHER MISCELLANEOUS MATTERS, APPLICABLE TO SHIPS OF WAR AND OTHERS.
~Illustrated with Seventy Engravings.~
ALSO,
TABLES OF RIGGING, SPARS, SAILS, BLOCKS, CANVASS, CORDAGE, CHAIN AND HEMP CABLES, HAWSERS, &c., &c., RELATIVE TO EVERY CLASS OF VESSELS.
BY WILLIAM BRADY, SAILING MASTER, U. S. N.
SIXTH EDITION.
IMPROVED AND ENLARGED, WITH ADDITIONAL MATTER, PLATES, AND TABLES.
NEW YORK: PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR.
SOLD AT R. L. SHAW’S NAUTICAL STORE, NO. 222 WATER ST., AND THE PRINCIPAL NAUTICAL AND STATIONERS’ STORES THROUGHOUT THE UNITED STATES.
1852.
Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1847. BY WILLIAM BRADY, in the Clerk’s Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New York
DEDICATED TO THE UNITED STATES’ NAVY AND MERCHANT SERVICE.
Preface
In offering the following work to the public, the author deems no apology necessary, as it was written for the use of the Naval and Merchant Service of the United States, as a ready means of introducing Young Sailors to the theory of that art by which they must expect to advance in the profession they have chosen. He flatters himself, however, that it will be found useful to many old and experienced seamen, as well as to those who have just entered the sailors’ life, and particularly to those destined for the Navy. Should it fall into the hands of the learned, they will bear in mind that he is better versed with the marlinespike than the pen, and that it was composed in the hours of relaxation from official duties. He therefore hopes that it may be received for that which it is intended to be, A KEDGE-ANCHOR, for the youthful sailor. The work has been submitted to the inspection of a number of experienced officers, both in the Navy and Merchant Service, who have given it their decided approbation;--some of whose names are appended to the work. With these few remarks, he submits it to a discerning public, to stand or fall on its own merits.
RECOMMENDATIONS.
I have examined the manuscript of Mr. Brady and approve of it, as a very useful Book for young officers and others, in the Naval and Merchant service.
JOHN GALLAGHER, Captain U. S. Navy.
I fully concur in the above.
E. PECK, Commander U. S. Navy.
I have examined the within treatise on Seamanship, and other miscellaneous matter appertaining to ships and vessels of war (written by William Brady, Master U. S. Navy). It affords me much pleasure to recommend the same to the junior officers of the Navy, and others who may be disposed to learn the profession of Seamanship.
W. C. WETMORE, Commander U. S. Navy.
Examined and approved as a work that will be useful to the Service.
J. D. L. SAUNDERS, Commander U. S. Navy. J. MATTISON, Commander U. S. Navy.
This I conceive to be a valuable work, and well calculated to be useful to the Service.
JOSHUA R. SANDS, Commander U. S. Navy.
I have closely examined the within work, and think it well calculated for the instruction of young officers and others in the Navy.
JAMES RENSHAW, Captain U. S. Navy.
I fully concur in the above.
FRANCIS O. ELLISON, Master U. S. Navy.
I have carefully examined the within work on Seamanship, and think it one well calculated for the instruction of young officers, and others.
C. G. HUNTER, Lieutenant U. S. Navy.
We cheerfully recommend this work of William Brady, S. Master U. S. Navy, to the maritime community, and think it well calculated for the instruction of all who may be disposed to learn the profession of Seamanship.
ISAAC McKEEVER, Captain U. S. Navy. JAMES McINTOSH, Commander U. S. Navy. WILLIAM L. HUDSON, Commander U. S. Navy. HENRY EAGLE, Commander U. S. Navy. A. G. GORDON, Lieutenant U. S. Navy. CADWALDER RINGGOLD, Lieutenant U. S. Navy. WILLIAM F. LYNCH, Lieutenant U. S. Navy. HENRY W. MORRIS, Lieutenant U. S. Navy. FRANCIS B. ELLISON, Lieutenant U. S. Navy. JAMES H. ROWAN, Lieutenant U. S. Navy. JOHN COLHOUN, Lieutenant U. S. Navy. T. TURNER, Lieutenant U. S. Navy. T. A. HUNT, Lieutenant U. S. Navy. HENRY MOORE, Lieutenant U. S. Navy. JOHN J. GLASSON, Lieutenant U. S. Navy. CHARLES HEYWOOD, Lieutenant U. S. Navy. CHARLES S. BOGGS, Lieutenant U. S. Navy. ALEXANDER GIBSON, Lieutenant U. S. Navy. ALEXANDER M. PENNOCK, Lieutenant U. S. Navy. MONTGOMERY HUNT, Lieutenant U. S. Navy. FRANCIS HAGGERTY, Lieutenant U. S. Navy. J. R. McMULLANY, Lieutenant U. S. Navy.
CAPT. HENRY D. HUNTER, Commanding U. S. Rev. Steamer Polk. JOHN McGOWAN, 1st Lieutenant U. S. Rev. Marine. WILLIAM H. BROWN, Lieutenant U. S. Rev. Marine. JOSEPH C. NOYES, Lieutenant U. S. Rev. Marine. CAPT. E. RICHARDSON, President American Seamen Friend Society. CAPT. AUGUSTUS PROAL, Reviewer of the Work.
CAPT. SAMUEL YEATON, Commanding Packet ship Oxford. CAPT. D. G. BAILEY, Commanding Packet ship Yorkshire. CAPT. GEORGE B. CORNISH, Commanding Packet ship Sheridan. CAPT. E. G. FURBER, Commanding Packet ship Europe. CAPT. A. B. LOWBER, Commanding Packet ship Montezuma. CAPT. J. A. WOTTEN, Commanding Packet ship Admiral. CAPT. JOSEPH HAMILTON, Commanding Packet ship So. Carolina. CAPT. CHARLES R. GRIFFITH, Commanding Ship Southport. CAPT. JAMES RENNE, Commanding Ship Gondola. CAPT. IRA BURSLEY, Commanding Ship Hottenger. CAPT. GEORGE W. HOWE, Commanding Packet ship Bavaria.
Part I
Number. Page. 1. To knot a Rope-Yarn, 21 2. To make a Fox, 21 3. To make a Spanish Fox, 21 4. To make a Knittle, 22 5. Overhanded Knot, 22 6. Figure of Eight-Knot, 22 7. Two Half-Hitches, 22 8. Reef or Square Knot, 22 9. A Bowline Knot, 22 10. Bowline on the Bight, 23 11. A Running Bowline, 23 12. A Timber-Hitch, 23 13. A Fisherman’s Bend, 23 14. A Rolling Bend, 23 15. A Carrick Bend, 23 16. A Cat’s-Paw, 24 17. A Sheet or Becket Bend, 24 18. A Black-Wall Hitch, 24 19. A Rolling Hitch, 25 20. A Salvagee Strap, 25 21. A Pudding for a Mast or Yard, 25 22. A Short Splice, 25 23. A Long Splice, 26 24. An Eye Splice, 26 25. A Cut Splice, 27 26. A Flemish Eye, 27 27. An Artificial Eye, 27 28. To worm and serve a Rope, 27 29. To clap on a Throat and Quarter Seizing, 28 30. To make a Turk’s Head, 28 31. To Sheepshank a Rope or Backstay, 29 32. To put a Strand in a Rope, 29 33. To Wall and Crown, 29 34. To make a Mathew Walker, 29 35. A Spritsail Sheet Knot, 30 36. A Shroud-Knot, 30 37. A French Shroud Knot, 30 38. A single Diamond Knot, 30 39. A double Diamond Knot, 31 40. A Stopper Knot, 31 41. A Buoy-rope Knot, 31 42. A Common Sennit, 31 43. A Sea Gasket, 31 44. A Panch or Wrought Mat, 32 45. A Harbor Gasket or French Sennit, 32 46. Pointing a Rope, 32 47. To make a Grommet, 33 48. To pass a Rose-Lashing, 33 49. To weave a Sword Mat, 33 50. A Lashing Cleat, 34 51. A Shell, Pin and Sheave, 34 52. A Single, Double and Treble Block, 34 53. A Shoulder Block, 34 54. A Fiddle Block, 35 55. A Shoe Block, 35 56. A Sister Block, 35 57. A Dead-Eye, 35 58. A Heart, 36 59. A Belaying-pin Rack, 36 60. A Euphroe, 36 61. A Horn Cleat, 36 62. A B-Cleat, 36 63. A Strap for a Block, 36 64. A Tail Block, 37 65. A Purchase Block, 37 66. A Top Block, 37 67. A Cat Block, 38 68. A Snatch Block, 38 69. A Nun Buoy, 38 70. To bend a Buoy-Rope, 38 71. To Pudding the Ring of an Anchor, 39 72. A Jacob’s Ladder, 39 73. Can-Hooks, 40 74. Hogshead Slings, 40 75. Barrel Slings, 40 76. A Single Whip, 40 77. A Gun-Tackle Purchase, 41 78. A Luff-Tackle Purchase, 41 79. A Top Burton, 41 80. Whip and Runner, 41 81. Runner and Tackle, 41 82. A Twofold Purchase, 41 83. A Threefold Purchase, 42 84. Names of Ropes, 42
Part II
85. Launching a Ship, 43 86. Cutting out Standing Rigging, 44 87. Cutting out Topmast and Top-gallant Rigging, 45 88. Cutting out Breast and Standing Back-stays, 45 89. Cutting out Catharpen Legs and Futtock Shrouds, 46 90. Cutting out Fore and Aft Stays, 46 91. Cutting out Lower Mast Head Pendants, 46 92. Cutting out Bobstays, 46 93. Cutting out Bowsprit Shrouds, 47 94. Cutting out Jib and Flying Jib Guys, 47 95. Cutting out Running Rigging, 47 96. Rigging Shears and taking in Masts and Bowsprit, 47 97. To take in the Mizen Mast, 50 98. To take in the Main and Foremast, 51 99. To take in the Bowsprit, 51 100. Gammoning the Bowsprit, 52 101. Fitting Rigging, 53 102. Fitting Mast-head Pendants, 54 103. Fitting Lower and Topmast Stays, 54 104. To Rig the Foremast, 55 105. Futtock Shrouds, 57 106. To Rig the Main and Mizen Mast, 58 107. To Rig the Bowsprit, 58 108. Getting Tops over (whole Tops,) 59 109. Getting Half-tops over, 60 110. Getting up Top-blocks, 61 111. Getting up Top-masts, 61 112. Getting the Cap into the Top, 62 113. Turning in Dead-eyes, 63 114. Getting Topmast Cross-trees over, 64 115. Placing Topmast Rigging, 65 116. To seize-in the Sister Blocks, 65 117. Backstays (Breast), 66 118. Standing After Backstays, 67 119. Main Topmast Stay, 67 120. Mizen Topmast Stay, 67 121. Getting the Topmast Caps on, 68 122. Mast-head Man-ropes, &c., &c., 68 123. Top-Tackle Pendants, 69 124. Preparing to Fid the Topmasts, 69 125. Rattling the Lower and Topmast Rigging, 70 126. Futtock Staves in Topmast Rigging, 71 127. To Rig the Jib-Boom, 71 128. Jib-Boom Martingale Stay, 72 129. Jib-Boom Guys, 72 130. Martingale Back-ropes, 73 131. Placing the Rigging on a Dolphin Striker, 73 132. Getting the Jib-Boom out, 73 133. Sending up Topgallant Masts, 74 134. Royal Rigging, 75 135. Short and Long Topgallant Mast Ropes, 76 136. To Rig the Flying Jib-Boom, 76 137. Spritsail Lifts, 77 138. Spritsail Braces, 77 139. Strapping Thimbles for Guys on Spritsail yard, 77 140. Crossing a Spritsail Yard, 78 141. Two Half-spritsail Yards, 78 142. Whiskers, 79 143. To get on board and rig Lower Yards, 79 144. Truss Straps, 80 145. Truss Pendants, 80 146. Quarter Blocks--Lower Yards, 80 147. Clew Garnet Blocks, 81 148. Lift Blocks--Lower Yards, 81 149. Foot Ropes and Stirrups, 81 150. Jack Stays--Bending and Reefing, 82 151. Brace Blocks--Lower Yards, 82 152. Placing the Rigging on Lower yards, 83 153. Getting up Jeer Blocks and Reeving Jeers, 84 154. Lower Lift Blocks, 84 155. Reeving Lower Lifts, 85 156. Main Braces, on Bumkin, &c., 85 157. Fore Braces, 85 158. Crossing the Lower Yards, 86 159. To get on board the Topsail Yards, 86 160. Rigging Topsail Yards, Fore and Main, 86 161. The Mizen-Topsail Yard, 88 162. Placing the Rigging on Topsail Yards, 88 163. Crossing the Topsail Yards, 88 164. Fitting Fly-Blocks for Topsail-Halliards, 89 165. Rigging Topgallant Yards, 90 166. Topgallant Braces, 91 167. Crossing Topgallant Yards, 92 168. Crossing Royal Yards, 93 169. Royal and Topgallant Gear, 94 170. Spanker-Boom, Trysail-Masts and Gaff, 94 171. Spanker-Boom Sheets and Guys in one, 95 172. Spanker-Boom Topping Lifts, 95 173. A Brig or Schooner’s Main-Boom, 96 174. Reeving Peak-Halliards, 96 175. Reeving Throat-Halliards, 96 176. To Fit Single Vangs, 96 177. To Fit Double Vangs, 97 178. Fitting Gaffs with Cheek or Brail-Blocks, 97 179. Getting up a Gaff, 97 180. Lower Studding-sail or Swinging-Booms, 98 181. Lower Studding-sail Outhaul-Blocks, &c., &c., 99 182. Topmast Studding-sail, Span-Blocks, Halliards, &c., 100 183. Topgallant Studding-sail Booms, 101 184. Getting Studding-sail Booms up, 101 185. Topgallant Studding-sail Gear, 102 186. Stowing Hold and Spirit Room (Ballast and Tanks), 103 187. Stowing Casks, 104 188. Stowage of Provisions and Naval Stores, 104 189. Stowing Chain Cables, 105 190. To get on Board and Stow the Hemp Cables, 105 191. Cat-head Stoppers, 106 192. Shank Painter, 106 193. Fish Davit Gear, 106 194. Getting on Board and Stowing Anchors, 108 195. Bending the Cables, 109 196. To Range and Stopper the Cables, 109 197. Stoppers, &c., 110 198. Compressors, or Combing Stoppers, 110 199. Putting on Nippers, 111 200. Iron Claw Stoppers, &c., 111 201. To Cut and Pass a Messenger, 112 202. Splicing Rope Cables, 112 203. To Ship and Unship a Rudder, 113 204. Getting the Guns on Board, 114 205. Fitting Shackle Breechings, 116 206. Triatic Stay, 116 207. Hoisting in Spars, 117 208. Stowing Booms, 117
Part III
209. Fore Bowlines, 119 210. Fore Topsail Clewlines, 119 211. Topsail Buntlines, 120 212. Fore-Top Bowlines, 120 213. Main Buntlines, 120 214. Fore Buntlines, 121 215. Main Bowline, 121 216. Top-Gallant Sheets, 121 217. Top-Gallant Clewlines, 122 218. Fore Topgallant Bowlines, 122 219. Main Topgallant Bowlines, 122 220. Mizen Topgallant Bowlines, 122 221. Topgallant Buntlines, 123 222. Royal Bowlines, 123 223. Reef-Tackles, 123 224. Leech-lines, 124 225. Slab-lines, 124 226. Royal Clew-lines, 124 227. Fitting Tacks and Sheets, Bumkin, Gear, &c., 125 228. Yard-Tackle Tricing-lines, 125 229. To Reeve and Toggle Royal Halliards, 125 230. Fore-Storm Staysail Gear, 126 231. Main-Staysail Gear, 127 232. Mizen-Staysail Gear, 127 233. Topmast Staysails, &c. &c., 128 234. Setting up Rigging for a full due, 129 235. Staying Masts, 130 236. Blacking Rigging, 130 237. Stationing the Crew, 131 238. Stationing the Crew at Quarters, 132 239. Stationing the Crew for Mooring and Unmooring, 133 240. Loosing and Furling, 133 241. Stationing the Crew for Tacking and Veering, 134 242. Getting ready to Bend Sails, 134 243. Bending Sails, 135 244. Bending Small-sails, 136 245. Bending a Spanker, &c., 137 246. Fitting Sea-Gaskets, 138 247. Fitting Harbor-Gaskets, 138 248. Bunt-Gaskets, 139 249. Hammock Girtlines, 139 250. Stopping on Hammocks, 140 251. Furling or Stowing, the Bunt of a Sail, 140 252. Furling Courses, 140 253. Making up Sails, 141 254. To make up a Topmast Studding-sail, 142 255. Furling Fore and Aft Sails, with cloths or covers, 142 256. Reefing Courses, &c.,--Jackstays, 143 257. Reef Earings, 143 258. Bending Studding-sails, 144 259. Preparations for leaving the Wharf, and hauling out in the Stream, 145 260. Carrying out an Anchor with a Boat, 146 261. Marking the Lead-line, 146 262. Heaving the Lead, 147 263. Marking a Log-line, 148 264. Getting ready for Sea, 148 265. Clear Hawse, 149 266. Weighing an Anchor with the Launch, 150 267. Weighing an Anchor with a Buoy Rope, 151 268. Boating an Anchor, 152 269. Taking in a Launch, 152 270. Taking in Boats both sides at once, 153
Part IV
271. Getting under-weigh, 154 272. When the Messenger Strands, or is likely to part, 155 273. To get under-weigh, and stand before the Wind, 156 274. To get under-weigh and back a-stern to avoid danger, 157 275. Getting under-weigh--a Shoal on each Beam, 157 276. Getting under-weigh in a Narrow Channel, 158 277. Head to Wind--cast on Larboard Tack, 159 278. Windward Tide--get under-weigh and stand before the wind, 159 279. To get under-weigh, and stand out on a wind, 160 280. Riding head to Tide--wind on the Starboard Quarter, get under-weigh on the Starboard Tack, 161 281. Getting under-weigh--wind across the Tide, 161 282. To back and fill in a Tideway, 162 283. Driving before the Wind, 162 284. Driving broadside-to, 163 285. Securing the Ship for Sea, 163 286. Stowing the Anchors for Sea, 163 287. Setting Topgallant sails--blowing fresh, 164 288. Setting Courses, 164 289. Setting the Spanker, 165 290. Setting the Jib, 165 291. Setting Lower Studding-sails, 166 292. Shifting a Course at Sea, 166 293. Taking in a Course in a Gale of Wind, 167 294. Taking in a Topsail in a Gale of Wind, 167 295. Taking in a Topgallant Sail, 168 296. Taking in a Spanker, 168 297. Setting a Close-reefed Topsail, 168 298. A Close-reefed Topsail Splits, 168 299. A Jib Splits, 169 300. Wearing a Ship under a Close-reefed Main-Topsail, and Storm-staysail, 169 301. Wearing under a Main-sail, 170 302. Wearing under Bare Poles, 170 303. Cutting away the Masts, 170 304. Laying-to under Lower Stay-sails--Wear Ship, 170
Part V
305. Precautions for Scudding, 171 306. Scudding--a Ship Broaches-to, 172 307. Scudding--brought by the Lee, 172 308. Heaving-to, 173 309. Taking in a Lower Studding-sail--blowing fresh, 173 310. To unbend a Topsail in a gale of wind, 174 311. Securing in a Gale, 174 312. Preparations for a Hurricane at Sea, 175 313. Preparations for a Hurricane, at Anchor, and Notes on Barometer, 175 314. The Foremast is carried away, 178 315. To Rig a Jury Mast, 178 316. Accidents to Tiller in the event of losing a Mast, 178 317. The Mainmast is carried away, 179 318. The Bowsprit is carried away, 179 319. A Topmast is carried away, 179 320. The Jib-Boom is carried away, 179 321. The Foremast is sprung near the Hounds, or Bibbs, 180 322. The Foremast and Bowsprit are carried away, 180 323. The Bowsprit is Sprung, 180 324. A Topmast is Sprung near the Lower Cap, 181 325. To send aloft a Topmast, and a heavy Sea on, 181 326. The Gammoning carried away, 181 327. A Lower Cap splits, 181 328. The Trestle-trees are Sprung, 182 329. A Lower Yard is carried away in the Slings, 182 330. A Topsail Yard is carried away, 182 331. The Ship leaks faster than the Pumps can free her, 183 332. The Pumps are choked, 183 333. A Shot gets loose in a Gun secured for a Gale, 183 334. To throw a Lower-deck Gun overboard, 184
Part VI
335. To turn Reefs out of the Topsails and Courses, 185 336. The Rudder is carried away--to fit another, 185 337. A Ship on fire at Sea, 186 338. A Ship on her beam ends, 187 339. Wind free, all sail set, struck by a Squall, 187 340. Struck by a Squall on a Lee Shore, 187 341. Struck by a Squall under whole Topsails and Courses, 188 342. On a wind under whole Topsails--part the weather Main Topsail brace, 188 343. The Jib Downhaul parts, 188 344. To Chase, 188 345. To Chase to Windward, 189 346. Observations for a Ship to Windward that is chased, 189 347. To Chase to Leeward, 190 348. To Windward of an enemy within pistol-shot--the weather main rigging is shot away, both ships with main Topsails to the mast, 190 349. Wind on the Quarter, all sail set--bring by under double-reefed Topsails, 191 350. Wind on the Quarter, all sail set--bring to on the other Tack, under double-reefed Topsails, 191 351. How to get the Anchor off the Bows, 191 352. Anchor head to wind, wind free, 192 353. To Anchor on a Lee Shore, 192 354. Scudding under a Foresail--to come to an Anchor, 193 355. To make a Flying moor, 193 356. To Moor with a long scope of chain, 194 357. Blowing Fresh--in Port, 194 358. Send down Lower Yards, 194 359. To House Topmasts, 195 360. To back a Bower by a Stream, 195 361. To Sweep for an Anchor, 195 362. Preparations for leaving Harbor, 196 363. Weighing Anchor in a head Sea, 196 364. Casting or Cutting the Cable, 196 365. Clinching Cables, 197 366. Fitting Buoy-Ropes, 197 367. Jib-Halliards, with a Whip, 197 368. Jib-Sheets, double, 198 369. Wrecked in a Gale, 198 370. Setting up Rigging at Sea, 199 371. Slacking the Jib-stay in bad weather, 200 372. Stopping out Top-Gallant Yard Ropes, 200 373. Preventer Braces, 200 374. Keeping a Clear Anchor, 201 375. Anchor turning in the ground, 201 376. To tend to a weather Tide, 201 377. A Man overboard (at sea), 202 378. Jib and Staysail Halliard Blocks at Mast-head, 203 379. To keep the Hawse clear when Moored, 203 380. To tend to Windward--single Anchor, 203 381. To tend to Leeward, 203 382. To Back Ship at Anchor, 204 383. To break the Shear, 204 384. On Getting to Sea, 204 385. On Fire Regulations in the Merchant Service, 205 386. Station Bill for fire in the Merchant Service, 207 387. Taking to the Boats, 208 388. Losing a Rudder at a Critical Moment, &c., 209 389. Steamers getting aground, 209 390. The duty of remaining by a damaged Vessel, 210
Part VII
391. On Squaring Yards, 213 392. Up Topgallant Masts and Yards--the Mast being on deck, 214 393. Down Topgallant Masts and Yards, 215 394. Crossing Topgallant and Royal Yards, and loosing Sails, 216 395. Top-Mast carried away, 217 396. Clearing the Wreck of a Topmast, 218 397. Carrying away a Jib-Boom, 218 398. To fish a Lower Yard in the Shortest Time, 218 399. Expectation of losing a Lower Mast, 219 400. Lying-to in a Gale, after the loss of Masts, 219 401. Spars to convert in case of need, 219 402. Getting aground, 220 403. The Ballast shifting at Sea, 221 404. Vessels Surprised on Opposite Tacks, 221 405. Meeting at Sea, 222 406. A Hint on Running too Long, 222 407. A Hint on Rounding-to in a Gale, 223 408. On Making your Port, 223 409. Laying off and on to enter a port, 223 410. To Anchor and Veer a long Scope of Cable, 224 411. Preparations--Going into Harbor, 224 412. Cautions at Night, (Lookouts), 224 413. Two Vessels in Collision, 225 414. Squalls, (Caution), 225 415. Water Spouts, (Caution,) 225 416. Pressure of Water at different depths, 226 417. On Stopping Leaks, 226 418. Examination of Chain Cables, 227 419. Minute Guns, 227 420. Hoisting on Board Money or Plate, 228
Part VIII
421. Stowing Hammocks, 229 422. Cockbilling Yards, 230 423. Dressing Ship with Flags, 230 424. Keeping the Copper clean, 231 425. Furling from a Bowline, 232 426. High and Low Bunts, 233 427. To Clear Mast-heads, 233 428. Placing belaying-cleats in Tops, 234 429. Making Swabs, 234 430. Stowage of Swabs, 235 431. Junk, 235 432. Making Mats, and Chafing Gear, 235 433. Gaskets, 236 434. Scraping and Greasing Mats, 237 435. Manning Yards, 237 436. Man Ropes--(side), 238 437. Spare Dead-eyes, 238 438. Hide Rope, 239 439. Hawse-hole Windsail, 239 440. Fighting Ladders, 239 441. Hawse Bucklers, 239 442. Making-fast a Warp to a Vessel, 240 443. Fitting Quarter Boats’ Gripes, 240 444. Fitting Gigs’ Slings, 240 445. Scrubbing a Boat’s bottom on leaving Harbor, 241 446. Carrying Light Boats on Shore, 241 447. Miscellaneous Notes on Working Boats, 242 448. Duties of Boats’ Crews, 243 449. Boats going on Distant Service, 243 450. Boats under Sail, 244 451. Giving a rope to a Boat, 244 452. Crossing a Bar with Surf--in Boats, 245 453. Hauling up Boats, 246 454. Lowering Boats, 246 455. Turning up the Hands, 246 456. Inspection of Rigging, Morning and Evening, 247 457. Inspection of Stowed Anchors, at Sea, 247 458. Inspection of Boats at Sea, 248 459. Gammoning the Bowsprit, 248 460. Precaution in Reeving Running-rigging, 249 461. Topsail Tyes, 249 462. Precaution in Blacking Rigging, 250 463. Fore and Main Buntlines, 250 464. Topgallant Mast Ropes, 250 465. Futtock Shrouds, 251 466. Tops and Half-Tops, 251 467. Striking or Housing Topmasts, 251 468. Swaying up Topmasts, 252 469. Unmooring, 252 470. Reef-lines to the Topsails, 253 471. Reefing Courses, 253 472. Topgallant-Masts struck, 254 473. Hailing aloft, 254 474. Proportions for Cables (Hemp), 254 475. Proportions for Anchors, 254 476. What length is necessary to form a Clinch, 255 477. References to Sketch of Temporary Rudder, 255 478. To Splice an Old Cable to a new one, 255 479. Strip Ship, 256 480. Proportions of Spars of Merchant Ships, Length of Spars, &c. 256 481. Thickness of Spars (Masts), 257 482. Yards, 257 483. Distance for Placing Lower Masts, 257 484. Rule for Placing Masts in a Ship, 257 485. Raising Shears on a Wharf, 258 486. To find the Tonnage of a Vessel by U. S. Measurement, 259 487. Stepping and Raking Lower Masts, 259 488. Mooring, 260
Part IX
489. Preparations for Heaving-down, 261 490. A Derrick, 269 General Cautions, 270
Part X
491. Explanation of Sea Terms, 273
Part XI
492. A table showing the weight of Cables and Anchors, used in ships and vessels of war, in the U. S. Navy, 290 493. A table showing the weight of Guns and Carriages, 291 494. A table showing the weight of Chain Cables, 292 495. A table showing how many fathoms make 112 pounds of four-strand shroud-laid rope, 292 496. Weight of one foot of Bar Iron, 293 497. A Table showing the weight of one hundred fathoms cable-laid rope, from two to twenty-six inches, 293 498. A Table showing the strength of hemp-cables, their weight, size, and number of yarns in each, 294 499. A Table showing the strength of plain-laid rope, three strand, 295 500. A Table showing the strength of chain cable, as tested in fifteen fathom lengths, 296 501. A Table showing the strength of short round-linked Bobstay, Bowsprit shroud, or crane-chain without studs, such as is used for rigging, &c. 297 502. Weight of Timber in a green and seasoned state, 298 503. A Table of measures and weights of different substances, 298 504. A Table of weight of tarred Cordage, 299 505. A Table showing the comparative strength between Iron Chains and Hemp Cables, and the size required agreeably to the Tonnage, 299 506. A Table showing the test required of flax and cotton Canvass, as to quality and strength, before being received for use, in the U. S. Naval service, 300 507. Cordage Table, showing the weight of one fathom of rope, from one to twenty-four inches, plain-laid three strands, &c. 301 508. A Table showing the length of 1st warp of Standing Rigging, 302 509. A Table of Foreign Ordnance, 303 510. A Table showing the quantity of provisions, slop-clothing, and small stores, for two hundred men for four months, U. S. Navy, 304 511. A Table showing the component parts of the Navy ration, 305 512. A Table for finding the distance of an object by two bearings, and the distance between them, 308 513. Dimensions of masts and spars, of the U. S. ship Princeton, 309 514. A Table of the size of short-linked chain, when used as rigging, 310 515. A Table showing the dimensions of the masts and yards, of American, English, and French ships, 312 516. A Table showing the compliment of Officers and Crew, allowed to each class vessel in U. S. Navy, 314 517. A Table of spars, &c., for all classes of vessels, 318 518. A Table showing the dimensions and quality of materials, used in constructing tops, trestle-trees, cross-trees, and caps, in U. S. Navy, 324 519. A Table showing the complement and quality of Boats to each class vessel in U. S. Navy, 326 520. A Table showing the weight, size, length and quality, of anchors, cables, &c., allowed to the different class vessels in U. S. Navy, 328 521. A Table showing the size, quantity, quality, and number of sails, allowed to each class vessel U. S. Navy, 332 522. A Table showing the quantity of canvass, rope, &c., allowed for one suit of sails, for each class of vessel U. S. Navy, 336 523. A Table showing the length and size of standing and running-rigging, for all classes of vessels in U. S. Navy, with miscellaneous articles, 340 524. A Table showing the size, and description, of the different named Blocks, for all classes of vessels in U. S. Navy, 364 525. A Table showing the projective distances from the spar-deck of U. S. Ship North Carolina, 384 526. A Table showing the weight of armament, stores, outfits and provisions, of U. S. sloop of war Albany, 386 527. Recipe for blacking Ships’ standing-rigging, 389 528. Recipe for blacking guns, 389 529. Recipe for blacking hammock-cloths, yards, and bends, 389 530. Recipe for making Liquid Blacking, 390 531. Recipe for blacking guns, 2nd., 390 532. Recipe Composition for blacking guns, 390 533. Recipe for making Black Varnish, No. 1, 390 534. Recipe for making Composition for blacking hammock cloths, No. 1, 390 535. Recipe for making Composition for blacking hammock cloths No. 2, 391 536. Recipe for making Composition for blacking hammock cloths No. 3, 391 537. Recipe for making Composition for blacking hammock cloths No. 4, 391 538. Recipe for making Black Varnish, No. 2, 391 539. Recipe for making Solder for Copper, 391 540. Recipe for making Solder for Lead, 392 541. Recipe To make the best drying Oil, 392 542. Recipe for Black Stain, 392 543. Recipe for blacking Guns and Shot, 392 544. French Recipe for blacking Guns, 393
THE KEDGE-ANCHOR.
Part I
We shall first commence with knotting a rope-yarn.
=1.=--TO KNOT ROPE-YARNS.
Take the two ends of the yarns, and split them open about two inches from the end; and if to make a smooth knot, you may scrape down a little with a knife, so as to make the ends lay smooth; you then crutch them together as you see in Plate No. 1. Take two opposite ends (leaving the other two dormant), pass one of the ends under, and the other over the standing part of the yarn, connecting them together at the same side you took them from at first; then jam your knot taut, and see if it will stand test by stretching the yarn from knee to knee, and hauling on it; if it stands without drawing, you may trim the ends, and go on.
=2.=--TO MAKE A FOX.
Take two or three rope-yarns and make them fast to a belaying-pin; stretch them out taut, and twist them together on your knee; then rub it down smooth with a piece of old tarred parcelling. This is called a Fox, and is used for many purposes, such as making gaskets, mats, plats, temporary seizings, bending studding-sails, &c.
=3.=--TO MAKE A SPANISH FOX.
Take a single rope-yarn and make one end fast as before to a belaying-pin, and untwist and twist it up again the contrary way, and rub it smooth. This is used for small seizings, &c.
=4.=--TO MAKE A KNITTLE.
A Knittle is made of two or three rope-yarns laid up together by hand, twisting them between the thumb and finger, and laying them up against the twist of the yarn. They are used for many purposes on board a ship, particularly for hammock clews.
=5.=--OVERHANDED KNOT.
To make an overhanded knot, you pass the end of the rope over the standing part and through the bight.
=6.=--FIGURE OF EIGHT KNOTS.
Take the end of your rope round the standing part, under its own part and through the lower bight, and your knot is made.
=7.=--TWO HALF-HITCHES.
Pass the end of your rope round the standing part, and bring it up through the bight--this is one half-hitch; two of these, one above the other, completes it.
=8.=--REEF, OR SQUARE KNOT.
First make an overhanded knot round a yard, spar, or anything you please; then bring the end being next to you over the left hand and through the bight; haul both ends taut, and it is made.
=9.=--A BOWLINE KNOT.
Take the end of the rope in your right hand, and the standing part in the left--lay the end over the standing part, then with your left hand turn the bight of the standing part over the end part, so as to form a cuckold’s neck on the standing part; then lead the end through the standing part above, and stick it down through the cuckold’s neck, and it will appear as in the Plate.
=10.=--BOWLINE ON THE BIGHT.
Take the bight of the rope in your right hand, and the standing part in the other; throw a cuckold’s neck over the bight with the standing parts, then haul enough of the bight up through the cuckold’s neck to go under and over all parts; jam all taut, and it will appear as in the Plate.
=11.=--A RUNNING BOWLINE.
Take the end of the rope round the standing part, through the bight, and make a single bowline upon the running part, and the knot is made.
=12.=--A TIMBER HITCH.
Take the end of a rope round a spar; pass it under and over the standing part then pass several turns round its own part and it is done.
=13.=--A FISHERMAN’S BEND.
With the end of a rope take two round turns round a spar, or through the ring of a kedge-anchor; take one half hitch around the standing parts, and under all parts of the turns; then one half hitch around the standing part above all, and stop the end to the standing part; or you can dispense with the last half hitch, and tuck the end under one of the round turns, and it becomes a studding-sail bend.
=14.=--A ROLLING BEND.
A rolling bend is something similar to a fisherman’s bend. It is two round turns round a spar as you see in the plate, two half hitches around the standing part, and the end stopped back.--(See Plate.)
=15.=--A CARRICK BEND.
This bend is more used in bending hawsers together than for any other purpose. In forming this bend you will take the end of the hawser, and form a bight, by laying the end part on the top of the standing part, so as to form a cross; take the end of the other hawser, and reeve it down through this bight, up and over this cross; then pass the end down through the bight again on the opposite side, from the other end, for one end must be on the top, and the other underneath, as you see in the plate.
If both end parts come out at the top it will be a granny’s knot. (Remember this.)
=16.=--A CAT’S-PAW.
This is generally used in the ends of lanyards, to hook the tackle to, in setting up rigging; to form it, you first lay the end part of the lanyard across the standing part, which will form a bight; then lay hold of the bight with one hand on each side of it, breaking it down, and turning it over from you two or three times; clap both bights together, and hook on to both parts.--(See Plate.)
=17.=--A SHEET OR BECKET BEND.
Pass the end of a rope through the bight of another rope, or through the becket of a block; then round both parts of the bight, or becket, and take the end under its own part, as you see in the plate. It is sometimes put under twice, and the end stopped back to the standing part.
=18.=--A BLACK-WALL HITCH.
This is used with a lanyard, in setting up rigging, to hook a luff tackle to, instead of a cat’s paw, where the end of the lanyard is not long enough to form a paw; but a strap and toggle is preferable to both.
To make a black-wall over a hook, you form a bight, or rather a kink with the end of the lanyard, having the end part underneath, and the standing part on the top; stick the hook through the bight, keeping the bight well up on the back of the hook (as you see in the plate), until you set taut the tackle.
Note.--You can learn it much better by practice than explanation.
=19.=--A ROLLING HITCH.
With the end of a rope take a half-hitch around the standing part; then take another through the same bight, jaming it in above the first hitch and the upper part of the bight, then haul it taut, and dog your end above the hitch, around the standing part, or you may take a half-hitch around the standing part and stop the end back with a yarn.
=20.=--A SALVAGEE STRAP.
To make a salvagee strap, you may get a couple of spike nails, and drive them into an old piece of plank, or whatever you can find convenient to answer the purpose, or get two hooks, lash them to any convenient place, as far apart as the length you intend to make the strap; take the end of the ball of rope-yarns, and make it fast to one of the spikes or hooks, then take it round the other one, and keep passing the rope-yarn round and round in this manner, hauling every turn taut as you pass it, until it is as stout as you wish it to be.
If it is to be a very large strap, marl it down with stout spun-yarn; if of middling size, marl with two single rope-yarns; if a small strap, a single rope-yarn.
=21.=--A PUDDING FOR A MAST OR YARD.
Take a piece of rope of the required length, and splice an eye in each end; get it on a stretch, worm it, and then parcel it according to the shape you want it. They are generally made as you see in the Plate, large in the middle, tapering gradually toward the ends, and made flat on the side that goes next the yard or mast. When you have got it the size required, marl it down, commencing in the middle and marling both ways until you come to the eye; if it is intended for a yard it is generally covered with thick leather or green hide; if for a mast, it is pointed over for neatness.
=22.=--A SHORT SPLICE.
To splice the two ends of a rope together, you first unlay the rope to a sufficient length, then crutch them together as you see in the plate; you must then lay hold of the three strands next to you in your left hand, holding them solid around the other part until you stick the three upper ends, or, if it is a large rope, you may stop the ends with a yarn; then take the upper or middle end, pass it over the first strand next to it, stick it underneath the second strand, and haul it taut in the lay of the rope; turn the rope a little towards you, and stick the second end as you did the first; the third in the same manner, hauling them taut along the lay of the rope;--turn the rope round, stick the other three ends in the same manner, and it will appear as in the plate.
Note.--If you intend to serve over the ends, you need not stick them but once; but if not you must stick them twice, and cross-whip them across the strands so as to make them more secure. If the ends are to be served, take a few of the underneath yarns, enough to fill up the lay of the rope for worming, then scrape or trim the outside ends, and marl them down ready for serving.
=23.=--A LONG SPLICE.
To make a long splice, unlay the ends of two ropes to a sufficient length, crutch them together in the same manner as a short splice; unlay one strand for a considerable length, and fill up the space which it leaves with the opposite strand next to it; then turn the rope round and lay hold of the two next strands that will come opposite their respective lays, unlay one and fill up with the other as before; then cut off the long strands, and it will appear as in the Plate.
To complete this splice, you will split the strands equally in two, then take the two opposite half strands and knot them together, so as to fill up the vacant lay; then you stick the ends twice under two strands with all six of the half strands, leaving the other six neutral; then stretch the splice well before you cut the ends off, and it is finished.
=24.=--EYE-SPLICE.
An eye-splice is made by opening the end of a rope, and laying the strands at any distance upon the standing part of the rope, according to the size of the eye-splice you intend to make; you then divide your strands by putting one strand on the top and one underneath the standing part, then take the middle strand, (having previously opened the lay with a marlinespike,) and stick it under its respective strand, as you see in the Plate. Your next end is taken over the first strand and under the second; the third and last end is taken through the third strand on the other side.
=25.=--A CUT SPLICE.
Cut a rope in two, and according to the size you intend to make the splice or collar--lay the end of one rope on the standing part of the other, and stick the end through between the strands, in the same manner as an eye-splice, and it will appear as in the plate. This forms a collar in the bight of a rope, and is used for pendants, jib-guys, breast-backstays, odd shrouds, &c.
=26.=--A FLEMISH EYE.
Unlay the end of a rope, open the strands and separate every yarn, divide them in two halves, then take a piece of round wood the size you intend to make the eye, and half-knot about one-half of the inside yarns over the piece of wood; scrape the remainder down over the others; marl, parcel, and serve, or if preferable, hitch it with hambro-line. This makes a snug eye for the collars of stays. (See Plate.)
=27.=--AN ARTIFICIAL EYE.
Take the end of a rope and unlay one strand to a certain distance, and form the eye by placing the two strands along the standing part of the rope and stopping them fast to it; then take the odd strand and cross it over the standing part, and lay it into the vacant place you took it from at first; work around the eye, filling up the vacant strand until it comes out at the crutch again, and lies under the other two strands; the ends are tapered, scraped down, marled, and served over with spun-yarn.
=28.=--TO WORM AND SERVE A ROPE.
Worming a rope, is to fill up the vacant space between the strands of the rope with spun-yarn; this is done in order to strengthen it, and to render the surface smooth and round for parceling.
Parceling a rope is wrapping old canvass round it, cut in strips from two to three inches wide, according to the size of the rope; the strips of canvass to be well tarred and rolled up in rolls before you commence to lay it on the rope. The service is of spun-yarn, clapped on by a wooden mallet such as you see in the plate, called a serving mallet; it has a large score cut in the under part of it, so as to fay on the rope, and a handle about a foot long, or according to the size of the mallet. The service is always laid on against the lay of the rope; a boy passes the ball of spun-yarn at some distance from the man that is serving the rope, and passes it round as he turns the mallet; when the required length of service is put on, the end is put under the three or four last turns of the service and hauled taut.
Note.--It has always been customary to put on parceling with the lay of the rope in all cases; but rigging that you do not intend to serve over, the parceling ought to be put on the contrary way.
=29.=--TO CLAP ON A THROAT AND QUARTER SEIZING.
Splice an eye in one end of the seizing, and take the other end round both parts of the rope that the seizing is to be put on; then reeve it through the eye, pass a couple of turns and heave them hand-taut; then make a marlinespike-hitch on the seizing, by taking a turn with the seizing over the marlinespike, and laying the end over the standing part; push the marlinespike down through, then under the standing part and up through the bight again. Heave taut the two turns of the seizing with the spike; pass the rest and heave them taut in the same manner, making six, eight, or ten turns, according to the size of the rope; then pass the end through the last turn, and pass the riding turns, five, seven, or nine, always laying one less of the riding than of the first turns; these should not be hove too taut--the end is now passed up through the seizing, and two cross-turns taken between the two parts of the rope, and round the seizing; take the end under the last turn and heave it taut; make an overhanded knot on the end of the seizing, and cut off close to the knot.
Note.--When this is put on the end of a rope, and round the standing part, it is called an end-seizing; if on the two parts below the end, a middle or quarter-seizing. A throat-seizing is passed the same way, but is not crossed with the end of the seizing.
=30.=--TO MAKE A TURK’S HEAD.
Turk’s heads are made on man-ropes, and sometimes on the foot-ropes of jib-booms in place of an overhanded knot, as the Turk’s head is much neater than the knot, and considered by some an ornament. It is generally made of small white line. Take a round turn round the rope you intend to make the Turk’s head on,--cross the bights on each side of the round turn, and stick one end under one cross, and the other under the other cross; it will then be formed like the middle figure in the plate, after which follow the lead until it shows three parts all round, and it is completed.
=31.=--TO SHEEPSHANK A ROPE OR BACKSTAY.
This is intended for shortening a backstay; the rope is doubled in three parts, as you see in the Plate, and a hitch taken over each bight with the standing part of the backstay and jamed taut.
=32.=--TO PUT A STRAND IN A ROPE.
This is done in case of one strand of a rope getting chafed or magged, and the other two remaining good. To perform this, you take your knife and cut the strand at the place where it is chafed, and unlay it about a couple of feet each way; then take a strand of a rope as near the size as possible, and lay it in the vacancy of the rope, (as you see in the Plate,) and stick the ends the same as a long splice.
=33.=--TO WALL AND CROWN.
Unlay the end of a rope, and with the three strands form a wall knot, by taking the first strand and forming a bight; take the next strand, and bring it round the end of the first, the third strand round the second, and up through the bight of the first--this is a wall. (See Plate.)
To crown this, lay one end over the top of the knot, which call the first, then lay the second over it, the third over the second, and through the bight of the first. It will then appear as you see in Plate No. 2.
=34.=--TO MAKE A MATHEW WALKER.
A Mathew Walker is made by opening the end of a rope, and taking the first strand round the rope and through its own bight; then take the second end round the rope underneath, through the bight of the first, and through its own bight; the third end take round the same way, underneath and through the bights of all three. Haul the ends well taut, and it will appear as in the Plate. This is a good lanyard knot, if well made.
=35.=--A SPRITSAIL SHEET KNOT.
Unlay two ends of a rope, and place the two parts which are unlaid together; form a bight with one strand, and wall the six together against the lay of the rope, (which is hawser-laid,) the same as you would a single wall with three ends; after you have walled with the six ends, haul them taut; you must then crown with the six ends, and it will appear as in the Plate. To complete it, you must follow the lead of the parts, and double wall and crown it.
This knot is frequently used in old-fashioned ships as a stopper knot.
=36.=--A SHROUD KNOT.
Unlay the ends of two ropes and place them one within the other, the same as you commence to make a short splice; then single wall the ends of one rope round the standing part of the other, and then wall the other three ends in the same manner; the ends are opened out, tapered down, and served over with spun-yarn. This knot is used when a shroud is either shot or carried away.
=37.=--A FRENCH SHROUD KNOT.
Place the ends of two ropes as before, drawing them close together; then lay the first three ends back upon their own part, and single wall the other three ends round the bights of the other three and the standing part; it will then appear like the figure in the Plate. The ends are tapered as the other. This knot is much neater than the common shroud knot.
=38.=--SINGLE DIAMOND KNOT.
Unlay the end of a rope a sufficient length to make the knot, and with the three strands form three bights, holding the ends fast down the side of the rope in your left hand, with the standing part of the rope; then take the first strand over the bight of the second strand and through the bight of the third; then take the second over the third and through the bight of the first; then the third, over the first and through the second. Haul these taut and lay the ends of the strands up again, and it will appear as in the Plate. This knot is used for jib-boom foot-ropes, man-ropes, &c.
=39.=--DOUBLE DIAMOND KNOT.
To make this, you make a single one as before; then take a marlinespike and open the strands, and follow the lead through two single bights, the ends coming out at the top of the knot; lay the ends of the strands up as before, and it will appear as in the Plate.
=40.=--A STOPPER KNOT
Is made by double-walling and crowning, which has been described before on another page. The ends, if very short, are whipped without being laid up; but if long they are laid up and stopped.
=41.=--A BUOY-ROPE KNOT.
Unlay the strands of a cable-laid rope, take one strand out of the large ones, and then lay the three large ones up again as before; take the three small ones which were left out, single and double them round the standing part of the rope; then take your spare ends, worm them along the lay and stop them.
=42.=--COMMON SENNIT.
Sennit is made by plaiting rope-yarns together. (See Plate No. 3.)
=43.=--A SEA GASKET.
A sea gasket is made by taking three or four foxes, according to the size you intend to make the gasket. Middle them over a belaying-pin, and plait three or four together, long enough to make the eye; then clasp both parts together to form the eye; then plait it by bringing the outside foxes on each side alternately over to the middle; the outside one is laid with the right hand, and the remainder held steadily--work the whole together, adding a fox when necessary. When you have got it a sufficient length, diminish by dropping a fox at proper intervals. To finish it, you must lay one end up, leaving its bight down; then plait the others through this bight about one inch; haul the bight taut to secure all parts--cut the ends off, whip it, and it is completed.
=44.=--A PANCH, OR WROUGHT MAT.
A piece of six or nine-thread stuff is stretched in a horizontal direction, and the foxes (according to the breadth you intend to make the mat) are middled and hung over it; then take the fox nearest the left hand and twist a turn in the two parts, and one part give to the man opposite (two men being employed to work the mat); the next fox has a turn twisted in its two parts, and one part given back to your partner; the remainder are twisted round the first which are given back, and then again round its own part, and so on with the remainder of the foxes, until you get it the breadth you wish. At the bottom of the mat selvedge it by taking a piece of nine-thread stuff, the same as you used for the top. The two parts of the foxes which are twisted together at the bottom are divided, and the nine-thread put between them; the foxes are hitched round it, and the end put through its own lay with a marlinespike; trim the ends off, and thrum it with pieces of old strands of rope, cut in pieces about three or four inches long; open the lays of the foxes with a marlinespike, push the thrums through the lays, and open the ends out.
=45.=--HARBOR GASKET, OR FRENCH SENNIT.
A harbor gasket is made with foxes, something similar to the common sea gasket,--but instead of taking the outside fox over all the rest, and bringing it into the middle, you interweave it between them by taking the outside fox of both sides, and taking it over one and under the other, working it towards the middle, the same as common sennit.
=46.=--POINTING A ROPE.
Unlay the end of the rope a sufficient length for pointing, and stop it; open the strands out into yarns, and take out as many as you think it will require to make the knittles, by splitting the yarns and making one knittle out of every outside yarn; when they are made, stop them back on the standing part of the rope; then form the point with the rest of the yarns, by trimming and scraping them down to a proper size, and marl it down with twine--divide the knittles, taking every other one up and every other one down; then take a piece of twine, called the warp, and with it pass these turns very taut, taking a hitch with the last turn every time you pass the warp, or filling. Then take the knittles which are up and bring them down, and the ones which are down, up; hauling them taut, and passing the warp every time over the lower knittles; proceed in this manner until you get almost to the end, reserving enough of the knittles to finish it with; leave out every other bight of the knittles of the last lay, and pass the warp through the bight, haul them taut and cut them off. A becket is sometimes worked in the end.
Note.--Knittles are made by laying rope-yarns together, with your finger and thumb, against the twist of the yarn.
Snaking is for the better securing of a seizing, which is passed round the single part of the rope and therefore cannot be crossed. It is done by tucking the end part of the seizing under and over the lower and upper turns of the seizing.
=47.=--TO MAKE A GROMMET.
A grommet is made by unlaying a strand of a rope and placing one part over the other; with the long end follow the lay, until it forms a ring, with three parts of the strand all round; finish it by knotting and sticking the ends the same as a long splice. (See plate No. 3.)
=48.=--TO PASS A ROSE LASHING.
It is used in lashing a strap or pudding round a mast or yard or the parral lashing of a top-gallant yard; this lashing is passed crossways over and under one eye, then under and over the other; the end part is afterwards taken in a circular form round the crossing, and the end tucked under the last part.
Note.--This circular part is done to expend the end, instead of cutting it off, so that it will answer again for the same purpose.
=49.=--TO WEAVE A SWORD MAT.
A piece of wood called a sword is used; this is put alternately between the parts of the spun-yarn or sennit, stretched over two round iron bolts (as you see in the figure); the warp of marline is placed through the parts which the sword has opened, and jamed by it close to the head; a piece of spun-yarn is put slack through the same division at the opposite end and left there; the sword is taken out, passed under and over the parts as before, and each end of the warp passed and jamed taut. The piece of spun-yarn which was left at the opposite end, is now lifted up, and brings the parts as they were first divided by the sword; the warp is passed as before, and so on until the mat is completed.
=50.=--A LASHING CLEAT
Is shaped like the figure in the Plate, having scores for the seizings which are marked, and a groove cut in the part that fits next to the shroud.
BLOCKS.
=51.=--A SHELL, PIN, AND SHEAVE.
Blocks are of different kinds, shapes, and sizes, according to the several purposes for which they are intended.
A block consists of a shell, sheave, and pin; and from the number of these sheaves it derives its name, viz.: a block with one sheave is called single; with two sheaves, double; with three, treble; and with four sheaves it is called a four-fold block. The shell of a block is made of ash, and has one or two scores cut at each end, according to its size; these scores are for the purpose of admitting a strap, which goes round the block, in the centre of which is a hole for the pin; the shell is hollow inside to admit the sheave. The sheave is a solid wheel, made of lignum vitæ, iron, or brass; in the centre is a hole for the pin, on which it turns. The lignum vitæ sheave is bushed with brass or iron; round the circumference a groove is cut, that the rope which goes over it may play with ease. The sheave is placed in the shell, and the pin is put through both shell and sheave, which constitute a block.
=52.=--SINGLE, DOUBLE, AND TREBLE BLOCKS.
What is termed a single block has but one sheave, and if intended for a double strap there are two scores on the outside of the shell. Single blocks are more used than any other kind on board of a ship.
A double block has an additional sheave; it is otherwise the same as a single block.
A treble block is made in the same manner as a double, with one more sheave. Treble blocks are generally used as purchase blocks, and strapped in the manner you see in the Plate.
=53.=--A SHOULDER BLOCK.
A shoulder block is the same as a single block, with the exception that it has a projection at the bottom of the shell, called a shoulder, to prevent the rope that reeves through it from jaming between the block and the yard. These blocks are mostly used for bumkin or lift blocks on lower vards.
=54.=--A FIDDLE BLOCK
Is made like two single blocks one above the other, the upper one being the largest so as to allow the rope which is rove in the upper sheave, to play clear of the rope in the under one. These blocks are used in places where there is not space enough for a double one, or where it (the double block) would be liable to split by not canting fair, or having room to play. These blocks are used for top burtons, &c. &c.
=55.=--A SHOE BLOCK
Is also made like two single blocks, but the sheave of the upper one lies in a contrary direction to that of the lower one. They are generally used as buntline blocks to courses; the buntline reeving in the upper sheave, and the whip in the lower one.
=56.=--A SISTER BLOCK
Has two sheave-holes one above the other,--three scores for seizings, one at each end, and one between both sheaves; they are hollowed out on each side of the shell, to take the shroud. These blocks are used as topsail-lift and reef-tackle blocks, and are seized-in between the two forward shrouds of the topmast rigging, above the futtock stave. The lift reeves through the lower sheave, and the topsail reef-tackle through the upper one.
=57.=--A DEAD-EYE
Is a large round piece of wood with three holes in it, (as you see in the Plate,) and a groove cut round it for the shroud to lie in. It is used to turn in the ends of shrouds and backstays;--the three holes are used to reeve the lanyard through, when setting up the shroud or backstay.
A bull’s-eye is a kind of thick wooden thimble, with a hole in the centre, and a groove cut round the outside for the rope or seizing to lay in.
=58.=--A HEART
Is a block of wood with a large hole in the centre, at the bottom of which are four or five scores, and round the outside is a groove cut to admit a rope called a stay; there are other hearts called collar-hearts, which are open at the lower ends, opposite to which the lanyard is passed. This heart has a double score cut round the outside, and two grooves cut on each side for the seizings to lay in, which keeps the collar in the scores of the heart. Hearts intended for bobstays should be made of lignum vitæ; those made of ash being liable to split.
=59.=--A BELAYING-PIN RACK
Is a piece of wood with a number of holes through it, in which belaying-pins are stuck; on the back part are several scores for the shrouds to lie in to which it is seized.
=60.=--A EUPHROE
Is a long piece of wood, having a number of holes, through which the legs of the crowfoot is rove,--a score is cut round it to admit of a strap. This is used for the ridge of an awning.
=61.=--A HORN CLEAT.
Horn cleats are used for different purposes; some are made to seize on to the shrouds; they are called lashing cleats; others are made to nail on to different parts of the bulwarks. They are of different shape and size, and used to belay various ropes to, in all parts of the ship.
=62.=--A B-CLEAT
Is a piece of wood scored out inside, something like the letter B, and rounded off outside; they are used for leading a rope through, or for keeping it in its place on the masts, bowsprit, &c.
=63.=--A STRAP FOR A BLOCK.
Straps are fitted in various ways, according to the use they are intended for, and according to the size of the block.
A common strap is fitted in the following manner:--
First, cut the rope once-and-a-half the round of the block, then get it on a stretch,--worm, parcel, and serve as near the end as possible, not to interfere with splicing; then splice the ends together with a short splice, and finish serving snug up to the splice. Stretch it and cut the ends off, or you may serve over the ends, and it will appear as in the Plate. If there is a number of those straps required, it would be best to get the rope on a stretch, and serve off the required number before cutting.
=64.=--A TAIL BLOCK
Is strapped with an eye-splice, snug round the block; the ends are stuck but once; then scraped down, and served over with spun-yarn. Clap on a stout whipping about six inches from the splice; open the ends out, twist them into foxes, and plait them together, as mentioned for gaskets; or, the strands may be opened out and marled down salvagee fashion; tapering it a little towards the end of the tail.
Note.--Blocks used for jiggers, have a double tail made in the same manner.
=65.=--A PURCHASE BLOCK
Is double strapped, having two scores in the shell for that purpose; the strap is wormed, parceled, and served, (sometimes only wormed and parceled,) and spliced together. It is then doubled so as to bring the splice at the bottom of the block. The seizing is put on the same as any other; the only difference is, that it is crossed both ways, through the double parts of the strap.
These block-straps are so large and stiff, that it requires a purchase to set them securely in the scores of the block, and bring them into their proper place.
=66.=--A TOP BLOCK
Is a single iron-bound hook-block, with (generally) a brass sheave; it hooks to an eye-bolt in the cap. The top-pendants are rove through the top-blocks when swaying up topmasts.
=67.=--A CAT BLOCK.
The cat block is three-fold, iron-bound, with a large iron hook attached to it, for the purpose of hooking the ring of the anchor when catting it.
On the forward side of the shell of this block are two small eye-bolts, for the purpose of fitting a small rope, called the back-rope bridle, used in hooking the cat.
=68.=--A SNATCH BLOCK
Is generally iron-bound, with a swivel hook; an iron clasp is fitted on the iron band, or strap, with a hinge to go over the snatch, and toggles on the opposite side, as you see in the Plate. The bight of a hawser or large rope is placed in this block, when warping the ship, &c.
Note.--There has been of late years several different improvements made on these blocks.
Blocks of this description, and of a large size, are generally termed “viol, or rouse-about blocks.”
=69.=--A NUN BUOY.
Buoys are used when a ship is riding at anchor, to denote the position of the anchor. They are a kind of a cask, large in the middle, and small at both ends; hooped close with iron hoops, and strapped with rope well served. A buoy-strap is cut nine times the length of the buoy; this is sufficient to make the slings and hoops; the slings have an eye spliced in each end, the hoops are rove through these eyes, spliced together, and fitted on the buoy, as you see in the Plate.
=70.=--TO BEND A BUOY-ROPE.
The buoy rope is made fast with a clove-hitch round the arms of the anchor, close up to the crown, and the end part stopped along the shank, with one or two stops.
Some are fitted with a running eye, and when used this way the running eye is rove round one arm, a hitch taken over the other, and seized in the cross.
In large ships they are fitted with pendants and slip buoy-ropes; the pendants have a large thimble spliced in one end, large enough to receive a stout hawser, in case you should want to purchase the anchor by the buoy-rope. The size for the slip buoy-rope is one-third the size of the proper buoy-rope.
=71.=--TO PUDDING THE RING OF AN ANCHOR.
The ring of the anchor is well tarred, and parceled with tarred canvass; then a number of lengths of old rope are cut three times the diameter of the ring; these are laid on the ring, and stopped by a temporary seizing in the middle; they are then placed fair by hand round the rings, as you see in the Plate.
When one or two turns of rattling-stuff is taken round all parts, and a heaver put through it, it is hove well round, which stretches all parts snug round the ring. After it is all hove on neatly, put on the seizings, four in number. (See Plate.)
=72.=--A JACOB’S LADDER.
These ladders are used in many different parts of a ship of war; they are used for stern ladders, rigging ladders, and on the swinging booms in harbor, &c. There are several different ways of making them; some are made salvagee fashion, and covered; others are made of four-stranded rope, and have the rounds put through between the strands of the rope. But the most general way of making these ladders, is to take some small rope, (about two-inch stuff,) and make two straps the length you intend to make the ladder, and splice them together with a short-long-splice. The straps being made, get them on a stretch both together, and see if they bear an equal strain; if not, shorten one strap, so as to make both alike. Take a piece of chalk and mark off where you intend the rounds to go, about fifteen inches apart.
The rounds are pieces of round wood, about two inches in diameter, of the length required, with a score on each end, for the rope to lay in. Put the rounds in between both parts of the rope, exactly at the chalk mark; having got them all placed, commence and seize them in, by putting on a snug seizing of marline on each side of the round; you may parcel, leather, or serve in the nips, just as may be preferred.
=73.=--CAN HOOKS
Are broad flat iron hooks, in the eyes of which thimbles are inserted. What is termed a pair of can hooks, is a piece of rope four or five feet long, or long enough to span a cask from chime to chime. When fitted, one of these hooks are spliced into the end of this rope; it is then got on a stretch, wormed, parceled and served, and a thimble is sometimes seized in the bight, to hook on to, when lifting a cask.
Note.--Some are fitted with chain, with a large iron ring in the middle.
=74.=--HOGSHEAD SLINGS
Are pieces of rope about five fathoms long, and from five to six inches in circumference, with a large thimble spliced in one end, and the other end well whipped. They are used to sling large casks, being more secure than can hooks. They are put on in this manner:--pass the bight over one end of the cask, reeve the end through the thimble, and haul it well taut; then take the end round the other end of the cask, and take two half-hitches round the standing part, and it is done. (See Plate.)
=75.=--BARREL SLINGS
Are generally made of three inch rope, and of sufficient length to go round the barrel. They are similar to a long strap, spliced together with a short splice; it is passed round the barrel and one bight rove through the other.
They are sometimes made long enough to sling two or three barrels at a time.
=76.=--A SINGLE WHIP.
A single whip is the smallest and most simple purchase in use. It is made by reeving a rope through a single block, as you see in the Plate.
=77.=--A GUN-TACKLE PURCHASE
Is made by reeving a rope through a single block, then through another single block, and make the end fast to the one it was first rove through, or splice it into the bottom of the block for neatness. (See Plate.)
=78.=--A LUFF-TACKLE PURCHASE
Consists of a double and single block; the rope is rove through one of the sheave holes of the double block, then through the single one, through the double one again, and the end made fast to the single block, with a becket bend, to a becket in the bottom of the block. (See Plate.)
=79.=--A TOP BURTON
Is rove in the same manner as a luff-tackle purchase; the only difference is, that the upper block of the burton is a fiddle block, while that of the luff is a double one. (See Plate.)
=80.=--WHIP AND RUNNER.
If a rope is rove through a single block, it is called a whip, as before mentioned; and if the fall of this whip be spliced round the block of another whip, it becomes whip on whip, or whip and runner. (See Plate.)
=81.=--A RUNNER AND TACKLE
Is the same purchase as a luff-tackle applied to a runner. A runner is a large rope rove through a single block, with a hook spliced in one end. (See Plate.)
=82.=--A TWO-FOLD PURCHASE
Consists of two double blocks; the fall is first rove through one sheave of the upper block, then through one of the lower ones; through the upper one again, then through the lower one, and make the end fast to the upper block.
=83.=--A THREE-FOLD PURCHASE.
A three-fold purchase is rove in this way, the blocks having one more sheave, only that you commence to reeve the fall in the middle sheave first,--instead of one of the side ones, which brings a cross in the fall. The reason of its being rove in this manner, is, that the heaviest strain comes first on the fall part, and if it was rove in the side sheave, it would have a tendency to cant the block in the strap, split the shell of the block, and cut the fall; but when it is in the middle sheave it draws all down square alike.
=84.=--NAMES OF ROPES.
The different kinds of ropes are designated as follows:--
Hawser-laid and cable-laid rope is all the same; it is composed of nine strands, each strand having an equal number of yarns. These nine strands are laid into three, by twisting three small ones into one large one; then the three large ones are laid up, or twisted together left-handed, which makes the nine strands; this is a hawser-laid, or cabled, rope.
A common or plain rope is composed of three strands, of an equal number of yarns twisted together.
Shroud-laid rope is made in the same manner, only that it consists of four strands instead of three, and a small strand which runs through the middle, termed the heart of the rope. When plain-laid rope is laid up left-handed, it is called back-laid rope. There is also four stranded hawser-laid rope, which is used for stays, &c., &c.