Chapter VI

Chapter VI

* * * * *

SOUTH-EASTERN SUDAN.

(The Sobat and tributaries, and country south of the Sobat and north of N. Lat. 5° between the Bahr El Jebel and Abyssinian frontier.)

SECTION 1.—DESCRIPTION OF THE SOBAT AND ITS TRIBUTARIES.

[Sidenote: River Sobat.]

The Sobat rises on the Abyssinian plateau somewhere about east long. 36° and north lat. 7° 15′, though its source has probably never been accurately determined, and flows generally from east to west.

For the first 260 miles (approximately), as far west as the junction of the Pibor[85], it is known by the Abyssinians as the Baro, by the Nuers as the Kir, and by the Anuaks as the Upeno; from this point to its junction with the White Nile, at a point some 55 miles by river south of Kodok and 460 miles (approximately) from its source, it is called the Sobat.

In its descent from the plateau to Gambela, for the first 150 miles, it flows in a series of rapids through wooded, mountainous, and hilly country, in a rocky bed often not more than 40 yards wide. From Gambela to Finkio (15 miles) it increases in width to about 200 yards, but in the dry season is full of rocks, especially at the bends. Throughout the remainder of its journey to the Nile it meanders across an immense dead-flat alluvial grassy plain, varied here and there by extensive woods reaching down to the water’s edge, but often nothing is visible for miles save swamp and grass with numerous termite hills, and but an occasional tree. During this part of its course its width varies as a rule from 150 to 300 yards, though occasionally it narrows to 30 or 40 yards in the marshy region between Balamkun and the Pibor.

[Sidenote: Banks.[86]]

Working up stream,[87] the banks are, as a rule, firm and dry for the first 150 miles from Sobat mouth, and numerous villages are seen built actually on them. The left bank is usually higher than the right, and both banks are higher than the country in their immediate vicinity, and thus narrow swamps running parallel to the river exist well on into the dry season. These marshes are often drained by the natives through cuts in the banks in order to capture the fish in them. Above the village of Shwai the banks are alternately marshy and firm.

[Sidenote: Navigability.]

Both the Sobat and Baro, probably as far up-stream as Finkio, are navigable for steamers drawing 4½ feet of water, from the middle of May till the end of December. About the middle of the latter month the appearance of sandbanks makes navigation difficult, though it is probable a channel for small boats exists throughout the year.

[Sidenote: Fords.]

Both the Sobat and Baro are fordable at fairly frequent intervals in the dry season eastwards of the Dinka country.

[Sidenote: Current.]

The current is generally estimated at from 2½ to 3 miles per hour in flood; in the dry season (February to May) it is not more than 1 mile per hour.

The current of the Baro in flood combined with the sharp bends and occasional narrowness of the river render navigation difficult in places.

[Sidenote: Water.]

The water of the Sobat in flood is of a reddish-yellow colour, whilst that of the Baro is similar to the colour of the Blue Nile or Atbara, being like them derived from the Abyssinian hills.

The sources of supply of the Sobat are:—

(i) The southern Abyssinian hills and the rains which drain westward from them.

(ii) The vast marshes which lie between the White Nile and the Abyssinian hills, which keep the Pibor bank-full till the middle or end of January.

[Sidenote: Rise.]

The Sobat reaches its lowest level about the end of January and commences to rise about the end of April or beginning of May.

[Sidenote: Discharge.]

Petherick in April (low water), 1862, estimated the discharge of the Sobat at 120 cubic metres per second. The same authority on 5th June (after the rise had begun), 1863, reckoned the discharge at 233 cubic metres per second. For later calculations, vide footnote p. 111.

[Sidenote: Adura (loop of the Baro).]

A large loop of the Baro takes off from the main stream near the village of Gadjak[88] on the south bank, and enters the Baro again some 14 miles to the east of the Sobat-Pibor junction. This river is known by the natives as the Adura. Although seemingly a large and important loop, it was found to be quite unnavigable in July, when the river was nearly full, owing to the existence of a large number of sand-banks and islands. Another loop south of the Adura is said to be formed by a stream known as the Mokwai. This has a very insignificant exit from the Baro, only some 5 or 6 miles to the east of the Adura exit, but is reported in its lower reaches to be an important stream in flood time, possibly after it is joined (as it is said to be) by the Bela river. The combined stream enters the Pibor, by native report, and, in that case, the river, followed by Major Capper for some 20 miles of its course, is probably this one.

[Sidenote: Tribes — Shilluks.]

From the junction of the river Sobat with the White Nile, for the first 30 or 40 miles up-stream, both banks of the Sobat are occupied by the Shilluks. For full description of this tribe, see Chap. VIII.

[Sidenote: Dinkas.]

The Dinka tribe thence occupy both banks of the river Sobat to about 32° 16′ east, villages of first Shilluks and then Dinkas being very numerous from the Sobat mouth up to this point, which is near the village of Lajak. They are shy and suspicious, but amenable to kindness and trade.

The Dinkas of the Sobat have been worsted in the frequent forays of the more powerful Nuers into their district. They complain bitterly of the spoliation of their herds by the Nuers, and state that many of their children, now growing into manhood as Nuers, were torn from them in the constant raids of the Nuer tribe. The Dinkas, in spite of this alleged oppression, own large numbers of sheep, goats, and cattle (vide details Appendix F, p. 330). The Dinkas on the Sobat are far more intelligent and energetic than their kinsmen on the White Nile, and cultivate sufficient grain and tobacco for their own needs.

For the most part the Dinka territory along the Sobat consists of open, treeless, grass plains. Fifteen to 20 miles east of Lajak the river banks are uninhabited until the small village of Ashel is reached, which is the commencement of a small tract of Anuak country, sandwiched in between the Dinkas in the west and the large and powerful Nuer tribe to the east.

[Sidenote: Anuaks (west of Nasser).]

The small section of Anuaks referred to here only occupy some 25 to 30 miles of the river bank as far as the village of Wegin, which is the boundary between them and the Nuer tribe. The different tribes hereabouts are considerably intermingled, as they appear to intermarry[89] to a large extent, and Anuaks may be found living amongst the Nuers even as far east as Nasser. Their position would not, however, appear to be a very enviable one, as the men are more or less slaves of the Nuers, and are called upon to perform many household and menial duties for their more powerful neighbours; at the same time the Anuaks appear to have no fear of entering Nuer territory.

The chief villages of the Anuaks, between Ashel and Wegin on the left bank of the river, are Yakwoik, Fatiwanyang and Shwai. A friendly Sheikh, Aiwel Wad Agwot, lives at Fatiwanyang. He is constantly to be seen at Nasser Post, and also occasionally even at Kodok.

This section of the Anuaks is a small and unimportant one; in general appearance they closely resemble the Nuers. They appear to grow very little food, barely more than sufficient for their own requirements, but at the same time have flocks of sheep and goats and a few herds of cattle.

Their country is well wooded for the most part, and, from native accounts, numerous herds of elephants constitute a very real source of danger to travelling, more especially at night time. Game is plentiful on both banks of the river in December, 1899. Very little trade has been carried on with these natives, but a few goats and sheep can be purchased for brass wire; the price being about a 6-foot length of wire for a sheep. Latterly, however, since more intimate communication with Nasser Post has been established, the demand for cloth has increased.

[Sidenote: Nuers (Sobat and baro).]

The Nuers are by far the most powerful and numerous tribe living along the Sobat river. Originally they appear, from native accounts, to have occupied tracts of country south of the Sobat in the neighbourhood of Bor and the Bahr El Ghazal, but these sections trekked north, and ousted the more weakly tribes living on the Sobat, and occupied their country. The Falangs and Bonjaks no longer exist, their territory being occupied by the Nuers. There appear to be three separate factions of Nuers at the present day occupying the Sobat valley, who, if native accounts are to be believed, are more or less at enmity with each other, owing to family disagreements. It is often difficult in consequence to get guides from one part of the country to enter that occupied by a rival section. For instance, Sheikh Jok’s people will not readily enter the territory of the Nuers in the neighbourhood of Nasser Post; whilst these again will refuse to proceed further east along the Baro than the village of Barrakwik.

The Nuer territory along the Sobat and Baro rivers extends from about east 32° 33′ to about 34° 10′. Their territory on the right bank of the Baro as far east as the Khor Garre[90] (33° 48′ approximately) belongs to the Sudan, whilst east of this khor and the whole of the left bank of the Baro belongs to Abyssinia. From Wegin village to Nasser Post the country is probably the finest occupied by the Nuers, as it is for the most part well wooded, and in places one passes through really beautiful park-like country. Villages are numerous, and several of the districts, such as Fauwel and Jurwel, are well cultivated. East of the Pibor their country bordering the Baro is a desolate marsh.

Although the huts and villages of the Nuers hereabouts are well and substantially built, the natives themselves are shy, suspicious, indolent and altogether a very low type of humanity. They appear to cultivate only such small plots of ground in the immediate vicinity of their villages as will suffice for their own requirements for perhaps six months in the year, whilst during the remainder of the year they live chiefly on fish, which, existing in great quantities, are easily speared during the dry season of the year. They do not appear to hunt at all.

Physically, the men are tall and well-built, but show little signs of muscular development, being generally long-limbed and wiry. They are all stark naked, and cover themselves from head to foot with cow dung ash, which gives them a particularly filthy appearance and renders their skin extremely rough and coarse. They make no attempt to adorn themselves, but are extremely anxious to procure brass wire with which to make for themselves bracelets extending from the wrist to near the elbow. This seems to be about their only vanity. They are all armed with spears, of which every man carries two or three. Their weapon of defence consists of an oval-shaped buffalo-hide shield. Bows and arrows they do not appear to possess.

The elder married women are as filthy as the men in appearance. They all, however, wear a leather apron or skin fastened round their waists. The younger girls and unmarried women wear no such covering, and, like the men, are quite naked.

The right bank of the Sobat near Nasser Post is densely populated as far as the junction of the Sobat and Pibor rivers, there being several large and important villages such as Kwoinlualtong, Taufot, and Ajungmir in addition to smaller ones. The left bank of the Sobat is not inhabited, as from Nasser to the Pibor a considerable portion of the country is inundated when the rivers are full.

East of the Sobat-Pibor junction, the country through which the Baro flows may be described, until Anuak territory is reached, as worthless. For the most part it consists of open treeless grass plains, which, in the vicinity of the river, are inundated for months at a time. The population is small, and confined to villages some distance apart, and absolutely no signs of cultivation are seen, except on a large island near the border of Anuak territory.

This perhaps may be explained by the fact that the Nuers in the dry season of the year occupy villages near the river banks, which are merely used as large fishing villages during the time the rivers are low; they subsist almost entirely then on the fish speared in the many pools which are formed by the receding waters of the rivers. When the rivers become full again, and the country is inundated, they withdraw to their permanent quarters further inland, where they probably merely cultivate during the rainy season of the year, between the months of May and November.

Several of the large villages to the east of the Pibor-Sobat junction, such as Taiyau, Gunjang, Gadjak and others which were teeming with life in the month of January, were deserted in July when a visit was paid by steamer to Itang.

With the Nuers of the Sobat and Baro rivers very little trade can be done, as they possess little or no grain, living chiefly on fish. They possess, however, numerous flocks of goats and sheep in the vicinity of Nasser Post, and also some magnificent herds of cattle at Ajungmir. Thirty-five goats and sheep were obtained in exchange for a cow. Large opaque white beads, about the size of a pea, are in request as articles of barter, but brass wire “No. 8” is most in demand, and a desire for cloth is beginning to rise.

[Sidenote: Anuaks or Yambos (E. of Nasser).]

The eastern Anuaks of the Baro (or Ufeno, as they call it) inhabit that portion of the river bank extending east of 34° 10′ to the mouth of the Baro river gorge at the foot of the Abyssinian hills, and the whole of their territory, with the exception of a small enclave round Itang,[91] which is leased to the Sudan Government, belongs to Abyssinia.

This tract of country is probably the most fertile anywhere along the river after it enters the plains. It is well wooded, and to a great extent free of those large expanses of swamp found lower down the river in Nuer territory. The numerous huts and hamlets, with which the river banks are dotted, are generally built close to the edge of the bank overlooking the river, usually on mounds slightly raised above the normal level of the bank. These huts are neatly built of mud and wattle with grass roofs, and are scrupulously clean and well kept. They are, as a rule, surrounded by a fence of tall reeds and grass, giving absolute privacy to the occupants. Within the enclosure so formed, in addition to several huts for the family, are the granaries, and also other enclosures for the herding of goats and sheep at night time. The interior is most carefully plastered over with mud and free of dust and dirt. The natives of this region are more advanced in ideas of civilisation than any others living along the Sobat and Baro in the plains. This is possibly due to their being in closer touch with the Gallas, with whom they trade considerably, than any of the more western tribes are.

They are a most peaceful, friendly and industrious race, and are great agriculturists. Miles and miles along the river banks are diligently cultivated by them twice a year, and splendid crops spring up from the generous soil.

Physically the Anuaks are not such a tall race as the Nuers, but their muscular development is perhaps finer. This is probably due to their more nourishing grain food all the year round, but they also supplement their grain largely with fish during the dry seasons of the year. Although they rarely seem to kill their goats and sheep for food, like the Nuers, they are extremely fond of meat, and will constantly beg a white man to come and shoot a hippopotamus for them, so that they may indulge in a real gorge.

As a rule the men are more decently clad than the Nuers, as many of them wear beautifully cured skins, as soft as chamois leather, round the loins. They are far cleaner, better groomed, and smarter looking in every way than the Nuers. A large number of the Anuaks, especially in the neighbourhood of Pokum and Finkio, wear splendid ivory bracelets on the arms. Some of these are as much as 4 to 5 inches in depth, and it is by no means uncommon to see a man with one such bracelet on the upper arm, and two somewhat smaller ones on the fore-arm.

One very curious weapon, to be seen nowhere else, is found among the Anuaks. This consists of a spear, the head of which is manufactured from a legbone of a giraffe, polished down to about 1 inch or ¾ inch in diameter, and sharpened to a fine point. These curios are obtainable for about five ½-piastre pieces.

The Anuaks would not appear to be either a courageous or warlike race like the Nuers, and seem content to merely cultivate their fields and remain at peace with their neighbours. Their spears are generally small headed, with long handles, and it is by no means unusual to see some men armed with nothing but sharp-pointed sticks hardened at the ends. Knobkerries are carried by most men. The older married women all wear skins, cured or otherwise, round the loins. Some of these are daintily picked out with a border of vari-coloured small beads. A large quantity of beads are also very commonly worn both round the waist and neck. The attire of the younger women and girls is really most attractive. In addition to a numerous accumulation of beads round the neck, they wear a large number of strings of beads round the waist of many different colours, whilst a small fringe, as it were, of generally white opaque or light blue and white beads depends in front and behind, some 2 to 3 inches in length round the body. As the girls are often very beautifully formed, and possess pleasant, laughing and occasionally really pretty faces, a group of them together forms a most charming picture of modest maidenhood.

The upper reaches of the Baro are not well cultivated, and beyond the point where the Faidherb was abandoned, the population is very scanty, and little or no food is obtainable from the natives; the river banks become very stony and thickly wooded, and what little cultivation there is to be seen hereabouts is generally on the islands.

[Sidenote: Principal villages. Nasser.]

NASSER, situated on the left bank of the Sobat, 160 miles above its junction with the White Nile, is the residence of a police officer and detachment of police. It is also garrisoned by half a company of a Sudanese battalion under a British officer (January, 1904). Little trade is as yet carried on as the Nuers who live in the vicinity have not yet got over their aversion to dealings with a civilized Government.

[Sidenote: Itang (Finkio).]

By the treaty of May, 1902, the Emperor Menelek agreed to lease to the Anglo-Egyptian Government an area of about 1,000 acres in the neighbourhood of ITANG, for the purpose of forming a trading station there. Itang is on the right bank of the Baro, roughly 100 miles above Nasser, and is in the Anuak country; a station was established here in January, 1904. As, however, the site is not a very suitable one a more convenient one at Finkio further east has been adopted. The Sheikh of Finkio is named Ojilo.

Although it is not practicable for probably five or six months in the year to maintain direct steamer communication with Nasser, the post should be absolutely self supporting. Shallow draught steamers drawing say 15 inches could, however, probably reach Finkio during 10 months of the year.

In addition to grain of various kinds, cotton is also grown by the natives in small quantities, and tobacco is very commonly to be obtained. Flocks of goats and sheep are numerous; but the natives will not readily part with their live stock. Cattle are only to be seen very rarely, as the natives fear to possess these lest they should attract the cupidity of the Abyssinians.

The Anuaks are very ready to sell flour and grain in exchange for beads, more especially in the Finkio district, which is very largely populated. They also hire themselves readily as carriers.

The most popular bead is a small light blue opaque one, the only opaque species of small bead obtainable in Cairo. A string of this bead, sufficiently large to pass over the head on to the neck, will purchase from 1 to 1½ pounds of flour, and perhaps 2 pounds of grain. A fowl can also be obtained for about the same quantity of beads. Possibly white or small green opaque beads would be equally sought after, but a blue and white bead, known in East Africa as the “punda malia” (zebra), would, everywhere in these regions, be eagerly sought after by the natives. Many of the Anuaks wear these beads, though how this species has got into the country, except, perhaps, gradually from the north of Lake Rudolf, where they may have been bartered in 1898, is difficult to understand.

The best trade goods would be white, green, pale blue (all must be opaque and not glass) and “punda malia.” Beads would be the main purchasing medium for grain, and perhaps brass wire and cloth for goats and sheep.

In a short time money may be introduced—as at Kodok amongst the Shilluks—as the Gallas, being neighbours of the Anuaks, and familiar with the Maria Theresa dollar, would readily bring down goats and sheep for sale, and the Anuaks would probably soon follow suit.

Besides tapping the fertile food-producing districts of the Anuaks, trade in ivory, coffee, live stock, donkeys, and mules, and in addition, perhaps gold and iron, in smaller quantities, will spring up with the Gallas when they find a ready market for their goods.

[Sidenote: Tributaries of Sobat and Baro.]

Several more or less important streams and khors join the Baro in its upper stony region on both banks. Chief of these are the Sako on the right bank and the Bonga on left bank.

Lower down on the right bank, Khor Jokau or Garre joins the Baro by, some say, two mouths, one at Jokau about 40 miles west of Itang, the other at Machar[92] 15 miles further west, where the post to mark the Sudan-Abyssinia frontier has been erected.

The Khor Garre, which forms the boundary between the Sudan and Abyssinia in these regions, brings down a large quantity of water in flood time from the Galla hills. In the dry season water stands in pools in its bed.

For the first 20 miles from its mouth this khor is inhabited by or belongs to the Nuers, then for a few miles by the Anuaks or Yambos, whose district is called Chai, and higher up by Burun.

[Sidenote: Khor Makeir.]

About 8 miles east of the Pibor junction, Khor Makeir comes in on the right bank. This, near its mouth, is deep, with a sandy bed 30 yards wide. It has not been explored, but is believed by some to be the mouth of the Sonka, in which case it has its origin near Jebel Sonka in the Galla hills south of Kirin. Others say it is only a spill from the Baro.

[Sidenote: Tributaries on left bank. Nigol or Aluro.]

The River Nigol (Nuer) or Aluro (Anuak) enters the Baro about 17 miles below Itang. It appears to have its origin on the Abyssinian plateau, and for some 25 miles before its junction with the Baro it flows parallel to that river, at a distance often of little more than a mile. In flood time it is a most formidable obstacle, as it forms large areas of swamp. Its entry into the Baro, near the border between Anuak and Nuer territory, is a very insignificant one, and barely discernible, as it spills out into a large swamp, near the village of Methok, before it reaches the actual river, and apparently the water gradually finds its way into the river through a thick forest-growth of trees by two small channels only a few feet wide. From the point where the Adura takes off from the Baro, the banks of the latter river are thickly wooded with sycamore and other trees as far as the eastern boundary of Nuer territory.

[Sidenote: Pibor.]

The Pibor flows generally from south to north, and enters the Sobat river at a point about 25 miles above Nasser and about 200 miles from its (Sobat) mouth. It is by far the most important tributary of the Sobat. The Pibor was found (June, 1903) to be blocked by sudd immediately above the Akobo junction, and so its upper waters remained unexplored until September, 1904.[93] The greenish colour of its water would lead one to suppose that it receives its supply from vast marshes in the plain between the Akobo and the Nile, rather than from the Abyssinian plateau.[94]

The banks of the lower Pibor are, as a rule, swampy, especially at the season when the river is fullest. The adjoining country is flat and covered with grass, with but few trees, though, south of Koratong, the banks are firm and dry, and trees become general, especially on the right bank.

[Sidenote: Width.]

The waterway of the Pibor in its lower reaches is exceedingly narrow, a steamer frequently touches the reeds of either bank simultaneously. About 40 miles from its mouth, however, it widens to from 40 to 100 yards.

[Sidenote: Navigability.]

The Pibor river has not (1903) been navigated by steamer in the months of February, March, and April, during which period it appears probable navigation would be difficult, if not impossible. During the rest of the year the average depth of water is at least 10 feet.

[Sidenote: Discharge.]

The discharge at the mouth of the Pibor, calculated by Captain H. H. Wilson in October, 1901, worked out at roughly 13,500 gallons per second. The width of the river here being about 80 yards, of which about 30 yards was blocked by sudd. The maximum depth was nearly 30 feet, and the current rather more than 1 mile an hour.

[Sidenote: Route.]

There is a route over comparatively dry country from Nasser to Waratong (45 miles approximately).

[Sidenote: Inhabitants.]

The inhabitants of the lower Pibor are Nuers, whose principal villages are a group at Koratong and another at Kur, both situated on the left bank. These appear to be the permanent homes of this section (Sheikh Jok’s) of Nuers, but in the dry season they occupy other villages both north and south along the Pibor, the most important of which is Bil (right bank) near the junction of the Gelo River; during this season Nuers from other districts visit the Pibor for fishing.

The Nuers of the Pibor do not differ in any essential degree from those of the Sobat and Baro, and are just as disinclined as their kinsmen to recognise the advantages of civilisation.

[Sidenote: Trade goods.]

Dura was purchased from the late Sheikh Yowe’s (now Jok’s) people for small white and dark blue beads, not much larger than a pin’s head. A string sufficiently large to pass over the head on to the neck purchased from 1 pound to 1½ pounds of unground grain. A spear length of brass wire, about 9 feet in length, purchased a goat of average size. Coloured fancy cloth will soon be in much request.

[Sidenote: Anuaks.]

A few Anuaks are found on the right bank, these are more or less subject to the Nuers. Their Sheikh is Okwai.

[Sidenote: Tributaries of Pibor. The Agwei (Gwynn), or Neubari (Austin), or Ruzi II (Wellby), or Adjouaro (Faivre).]

The “Agwei” River joins the Pibor about 17 miles south of the Akobo junction. It was found by the Faivre Expedition (1898), by whom it was named the Adjouaro, to rise in the Southern Boma hills and to flow northwards to within a few miles of the left bank of the Akobo, and then bending westwards to flow parallel with that river to the Pibor, or, as they called it, the Adjouba (Agibba?). The Agwei was also heard of by Major Austin when marching through Boma; it was described as a big river and was named by him the Neubari. It is also probably the same as Wellby’s Ruzi II.

In September, 1904, Major Gwynn explored this branch of the Pibor in a steam-launch for 55 miles from its mouth, when further progress was arrested by heavy sudd. He describes it as a fine stream flowing between well-defined banks, averaging 3 feet above the level of the river in flood and 60 to 80 yards apart. In places, however, it had overflown its banks and flooded the adjoining country to a considerable depth. The average width of waterway, which was frequently obstructed by light sudd blocks, was 30 yards, depth 20 feet, and current 2 to 2½ miles per hour. The banks of the Agwei were stated by Anuaks to be inhabited partly by people of their own tribe and partly by Agibbas. Their description of its upper course appears to agree with the theory that it is the Neubari, and that it is connected with the Akobo, as Major Austin surmised, by the Oboth.

[Sidenote: The Akobo or Juba.]

The River Akobo or Juba, which rises in the Domme Hills (Abyssinia) forming part of the watershed between the River Omo and the Nile, about north lat. 6° 30′ east, long. 35° 45′, flows generally in a north-easterly direction, and for the first 100 miles through more or less hilly country; it then enters the plains and eventually joins the Pibor about 70 miles from its mouth.

The ill-fated Bóttego struck this river (January, 1897) about 40 miles from its source, and found it to be about 25 yards wide and about 18 inches deep, its banks being much overgrown with very high grass which impeded travelling considerably. It was found to be uninhabited for about 45 miles further west, when the first Anuak village was reached. This was the most eastern point on this river reached by Major Austin’s Expedition (1901).

The Akobo river forms the boundary between the Sudan and Abyssinia in these regions. The following interesting account of the Akobo and its inhabitants is taken from Major Austin’s Report:—

“On our journey south from Nasser, we retraced our footsteps of the previous year along the River Pibor through Nuer territory until we reached the junction of that river with the Akobo. Here we found a small colony of Anuaks settled down for the coming dry season with a view to carrying out fishing operations, and without difficulty obtained the services of two guides. For our first two marches we proceeded east along the river, the banks of which are somewhat thickly wooded with thorn bush, amidst which, here and there, we came upon small families of Anuaks enjoying a precarious kind of existence on fish and the frugal products of the woods. These natives were all without exception very timid, and generally had cleared out of their cosy little arbours before the head of the caravan had reached them. They are very poor and wretched in appearance, the men being quite naked and possessing very few adornments.

“The elderly women merely content themselves with a small goatskin worn round the waist, whilst the younger women, like the men, are devoid of covering. They lack the prosperous and smart bearing of the Ufeno (or Baro River Anuaks), and in general characteristics closely resemble those of the Gelo.

“Some 30 miles to the east of its junction with the Pibor the banks of the Akobo become generally very swampy, and the river was unapproachable at the time we were travelling along it (February). No villages were seen until we reached long. 33° 40′, where there was a small one, Bor by name, situated at the base of a single tree, surrounded on all sides by swamp. From near here a track runs in a southerly direction to Bonjak, reported to be 30 to 40 miles distant, and no water on the road.

“Settled villages become somewhat more frequent from that point until the Tedo district is reached. This is fairly thickly populated on both banks of the river, and for the first time we came across a considerable amount of cultivation. A large khor enters the Akobo from the east hereabouts, which probably has its origin in the Abyssinian highlands, whilst, from the village of Neum, a broad loop takes off from the Akobo and re-enters that river again some 5 or 6 miles further north. Up to this point the country had been chiefly open grass land, very sparsely wooded with trees, and occasional small groves of lalob, but it now became well wooded, and the swampy areas less frequent. Small villages were established at closer intervals, but the natives remained very timid and suspicious, and it was difficult in consequence to obtain the services of guides, as the larger number of the inhabitants concealed themselves on the approach of the caravan.

“The Anuak territory terminates at the junction of the Akobo and Ajibur streams, after which comes a long stretch of uninhabited country extending to the foot of the Boma hills. The district of Bula, some distance to the east, is reported by the Anuaks to be inhabited by men of a fair complexion—possibly Gallas. The Anuaks of the Akobo possess but few flocks of goats and sheep, and apparently no cattle. In addition to grain, they probably subsist to a large extent in the dry season on fish, as fish weirs and traps are occasionally met with in the river.

[Sidenote: Width, depth, and current.]

“The average width of the Akobo in its lower reaches is 20 yards, and depth 7 feet, current 3 miles an hour (February); higher up above Neum its width increases to 40 to 60 yards, and its depth diminishes to 18 inches. Its banks are generally high and steep. In its upper portions it flows over a lava bed.

[Sidenote: Navigability.]

“Small dug-out canoes are also used by the natives for travelling along the river. Navigation in a small launch would probably be quite possible as far as Neum for several months in the year. The larger Nile steamers would most likely be unable to navigate this stream owing to the extraordinary sharp curves and bends of the river, the stream when in flood being very swift. It is quite possible, however, that a powerful launch, drawing, say, 18 inches of water, might, at full flood time, be able to proceed, perhaps, as far as Melile, although extreme caution would have to be observed, for in parts the river flows over a lava bed, whilst in others, fallen trees in the river might prove dangerous.”

[Sidenote: Discharge.]

The discharge of the Akobo near its mouth was calculated by Captain H. Wilson to be 2,185 gallons per second in October, 1901. There was then a clear waterway 15 yards wide and 14 feet deep, on each side of which were belts of sudd from 20 to 30 yards wide.

[Sidenote: Ajibur, or Ruzi I.]

The Ajibur (Austin) or Ruzi I (Wellby), a small stream rising on the Boma hills, flows northwards to the Akobo and joins it on the left bank about 80 miles from its (Akobo) source. Water was standing in pools in its bed in February, 1901.

[Sidenote: Gelo River.]

The Gelo River rises in the Mocha hills (Abyssinian), situate about east long. 36°, north lat. 7° 30′, and flows generally in a westerly direction to the Pibor, which it enters on the right bank 26 miles above its junction with the Baro.

Mr. Oscar Neumann, who explored this river in 1901, considers it a very important source of supply of the Sobat, and far more so than the Akobo river, which he thinks comparatively insignificant. Mr. Neumann is strongly of opinion that after traversing Lake Tata the river divides, one branch flowing into the Pibor, as above stated, the other or others flowing northwards towards the Baro. Though Bottégo seems to have had the same opinion, Major Austin does not lend much credence to this theory.

Neumann gives the following description of the upper regions adjoining this river:—

“In Shekho I found a large river running westwards. I believed this river to be the Gelo, discovered near its junction with the Ajuba by the Italian Bóttego, an opinion which was confirmed afterwards. Travelling became very difficult here. The western slopes of the south Ethiopian plateau are cut by many deep ravines; the roads, therefore, were narrow and bad, and many of my mules became wounded and useless. As it flows westwards, the River Gelo is lined on both sides by the densest forest. I could march only about 2 or 3 miles each day, and to cover that distance the men had mostly to cut the way with axes and bush knives from morning to noon, after which the caravan was able to proceed. The inhabitants of this forest are the Mashango, who are very seldom seen, but we often found large traps made for hippopotami and waterbucks, and loops made of creepers for monkeys and other small animals going to the water. Already in Gimirra I had seen, far away to the west, a long mountain chain running from north to south, called by the Galla ‘Gurafarda’ that is to say, ‘horse’s ear,’ from a sharp double peak in the middle. It took more than three weeks from Gimirra to reach the point where the Gelo pierces the mountains, forming magnificent cascades. Some days after passing this gap, I saw from a bamboo-covered hill in the west a boundless bush and grass-covered dead flat plain, the plain of the Sobat and the beginning of the Sudan. Only a few granite hills are scattered over it. Ascending one of these I saw, far away, a large lake—Lake Tata—through which the River Gelo runs. Here we found the first villages of the Yambo or Anuak, who were the first true Nilotic people I met. They are a division of the great Shilluk tribe, which is spread over the whole Eastern Sudan, and extends southwards to the east short of Lake Victoria. The few samples I obtained of their language show that it is scarcely distinguishable from that of the Kavirondo people on the east shores of Lake Victoria, whose country I passed on my first African journey in 1894.

“The land now became more and more swampy. The Anuaks, poverty-stricken through many Abyssinian ‘razzias,’ live hidden away on small islands in these swamps. A large part of the people have migrated westward, and live in a state of semi-slavery under the protection of the more powerful Nuer, near the Egyptian fort of Nasser on the Sobat.

“Approaching Lake Tata the swamps became so numerous and deep that I turned south and marched to the village Neum, where I struck Bottégo’s route. The attempt to march along the northern bank of the Akobo failed, because we stuck fast in the swamps, where I lost many of my mules; so, after two days, I marched back to Neum and crossed the Akobo. The country on the left shore of the river, which had here a north-westerly direction, was drier.”

Major Austin, gives an interesting description of the river and country west of Lake Tata:—

“The Anuaks of the Gelo river district need very little description, and, as practically little was seen of them except when passing their villages, not much information was obtained regarding them. As compared with their compatriots on the Ufeno river, they appear to be a far less prosperous race, and, physically, might be described as an anæmic-looking tribe, probably due to the fact that the tract of country they inhabit is for months at a time one vast swamp, and unhealthy in consequence. They are more suspicious and shy than the northern section, but not really unfriendly in any way, as we had no difficulty in obtaining guides from them. They do not take the same pride in their personal appearance as those of the Upeno, and few of the men wear skins. The women are less particular also, and unhesitatingly entered the river at Patok devoid of all clothing, and washed themselves on the bank before our men. The unmarried women, like those of the Nuers, deem it unnecessary to provide themselves with any covering. Beads are worn, but not in the same quantities nor with the same taste as further north.

“The right bank of the Gelo, as far west as about east 33° 50′, is generally well-wooded some little distance from the river, but the left bank west of about east 33° 50′ is absolutely devoid of a tree or even almost of a shrub. An open treeless grass plain appears to extend south until the Akobo river is reached.

“Patok, the first village on the Gelo reached by the survey party, is one of very considerable size, skilfully concealed in a thick belt of wood, the interior of which has been cleared to a large extent. The village is enclosed by a stockade of tree trunks and branches for defensive purposes.

“Most of the large villages along the Gelo, such as the Otwol, Chiro, Oran group, Goin, and Ungela are similarly concealed inside belts of tall trees, and surrounded by stockades.

“These villages are situated some distance from the river, as the expanse of swamp bordering the Gelo prevents villages being built nearer to its banks. At the height of the rainy season it appears probable that the whole country north of the Gelo and between that river and the Baro is one vast swamp, quite impracticable for transport animals.

[Sidenote: Width and current.]

“The width of the Gelo west of Lake Tata varies as a rule from 60 to 100 yards. At its junction with the Pibor its width is not more than 30 to 40 yards, whilst its current is very swift.

“As the Gelo is followed along its banks, no other stream appears to flow into it, although several swampy khors issuing from the river are crossed, flowing in a northerly direction. These are reported to join the Bela river and to flow into the Mokwai.

[Sidenote: Cultivation.]

“Along the Gelo, beyond a small patch of cultivation on the river bank near the village of Patok, no other signs of civilization are evident, except in a few diminutive cleared spaces in the woods; no food is obtainable from these natives. That they must subsist on grain to a large extent appears to stand to reason, so it is possible their fields, like their villages, are concealed in the midst of woods, with which the country abounds. Like the Nuers and Anuaks of the Baro these natives possess small dug-out canoes for crossing the Gelo, and employ them also in their fishing operations.

“To the west of Perbong two other villages, Ametha and Otwol, are reported to exist in Anuak territory hereabouts, and these two probably depend on wells for their water supply, as they must be quite 3 to 4 miles distant from the river, and no signs of tracks leading from or to the Gelo are visible. Goats and sheep are only seen in very small numbers.

[Sidenote: Swampy nature of country.]

“In normal years it is doubtful if this tract of country can be traversed much later than the middle of April with transport animals,[95] as once the rains set in the whole country is rapidly converted into bog, through which laden animals, especially donkeys, are quite unable to travel. During the dry seasons of the year large herds of elephants roam over these grassy plains and find both food and shade in the forest growth on the north bank of the Gelo. It is to these regions the Abyssinians descend in large numbers yearly from the western edge of the plateau, on ivory hunting expeditions, and traces of recent Abyssinian encampments were on several occasions met with. Before the rains break, however, these parties return to their homes, and we were warned at Gore by Fitorari Hili that we would find the country impracticable for animals once the rains set in, and this we certainly found to be the case.”

[Sidenote: River Mokwai.]

The River Mokwai or Bela appears to flow westwards to the Pibor from the Gurafarda range of hills (Abyssinia) traversing en route the marshy region between the Baro and Gelo; from the latter river it probably receives a considerable overflow. Its mouth is supposed to be about 8 miles south of the Pibor-Sobat junction, but owing to swamp it has not been accurately determined. It is said to be an important river in flood time.

[Sidenote: Khor Filus.]

The Khor Filus enters the Sobat on the left bank about 10 miles from its junction with the White Nile, the following description of this khor, the adjoining country and its inhabitants, is taken from a report by Captain H. H. Wilson, Inspector, Upper Nile Province:—

“. . . Starting on April 15, 1902, the expedition marched from the village of Gokjak (some 20 miles from the mouth of the Sobat), and met the Khor Filus at Shol Ajik, some 8 miles inland, thus saving an unnecessary long march along the khor from its mouth, which is 10 miles from the Sobat mouth. The country here is flat and uninteresting, nothing but a vast grass plain, with hardly a tree to be seen. At Shol Ajik trees were met with, the banks of the khor being thinly wooded with a small growth of red ‘talh,’ with a sprinkling of the unwelcome ‘kittr’ thorn bush. The khor at this point is some 50 to 80 yards in width, mostly, however, filled up with weeds, the real water channel being clearly marked (though practically dry) by a deep narrow bed, some 15 feet lower than the adjacent banks. On to the village of M’Yolga the same country extends—grass, with a few trees; in one place there were traces of elephants which had been there in the rainy season. Other game seen was the bastard tiang hartebeeste, which was really all the game seen in any quantity in the country. M’Yolga is a long scattered village on the right bank of the khor, and marks the limit of the Dinka tribe inland. From here onwards for many miles is uninhabited country, from Bia to Nerol being thickly wooded, in places densely, but only occasionally with any undergrowth that makes travelling difficult. Tiang hartebeeste were seen in considerable numbers along the whole route, and also quantities of waterfowl, pelicans, duck, geese, teal, and many and various kinds of crane and heron. In the vicinity of Fanyanglwel, 46 miles south of Sobat, the first signs of Nuer habitation were met with in the shape of their cattle ‘feriks,’ which are the summer residences (i.e., dry season, from January to May), built close to water, and constructed lightly of grass only. No regular huts or tukls were met with until reaching Riul, 7 miles further south, where the banks became low and flat, and trees only at some distance on either side. The khor is here in the rains evidently broad and shallow, and, owing to mud, probably an impassable obstacle under such conditions.

“A noticeable feature in the Nuer tukls is the superiority of their construction compared with the tukls of the Dinkas, Anuaks, and other tribes of the Sobat, their cattle tukls being in many cases marvels of constructive art, given only boughs of trees, grass, and native tools for their building. The regular solidly-built villages are placed at varying distances from the khor, probably dependent on high ground and on the nature of the soil, if suitable for the dura crops or otherwise, which are always grown in the vicinity of the rainy season tukls. Another noticeable feature, differing from the Shilluk and Dinka customs, was that the villages are not compactly built. The Shilluks and Dinkas generally build their tukls in close proximity, each village being a thick cluster of huts, the dura being sown anywhere close by. In the Nuer case, the tukls are built in twos and threes, at great intervals, probably each family being separate; the land around each homestead being sown and tilled by the dwellers therein. In the case of many Nuer villages, owing to the village being built in the woods, and the groups of tukls at intervals of 200 to 600 yards, it was impossible to estimate the size of the village without covering many square miles of country. Around the various large pools of water near Meinom, Fading, and Shit, were thick fringes of ‘Ambach’; these pools, being the chief source of supply for men and cattle in the dry season, it is only natural to have found the water so churned up and fouled by the cattle as to be nearly undrinkable. In places near these pools, where the adjacent soil was sandy, wells had been dug to obtain a cleaner supply of water. From Shit the khor continues in a southerly direction, being broad and shallow, and it is said, runs on to Bor. The expedition left the khor at Shit, and, relying on native assurances that water would be found in wells, pushed inland to the east, and marched through the main Nuer villages, which were in places very thickly dotted about, and well built. The country from Shit to the limit of the march was well wooded, chiefly with the heglig tree. The ground rose slightly, and as one got inland it became sandy and covered with fine grass, standing 2 to 4 feet high. The country also, here, struck one as being presumably fairly healthy in the rainy season, there being a complete absence of any rank vegetation. The dura crops in April were just appearing, the young shoots being about 6 inches high, and a very considerable extent of ground around each village was under cultivation.

“At Amwot-el-Sogheir, another fairly large khor was crossed; it was, however, quite dry, and the expedition camped on the further side, alongside some wells, which it was learned were the only ones to be found in this part of the district. These wells were worth noticing: dug on the sandy banks of the khor, their depth varied from 20 to 30 feet, with a diameter of about 2 feet 6 inches. Owing to the solidity of the ground, the walls of the well stood without need of revetting, and great labour must have been expended in their construction. Steps were cut in the wells on opposite sides, to enable a man to descend and ascend. In one of the wells a calf was seen, standing in the water at the bottom, having evidently fallen in. It was rescued by one of the Dinka guides, who descended the well without difficulty, and brought up the animal unhurt.

[Sidenote: Denkur.]

“From the camp an expedition was made on the 22nd to the Nuer villages in this vicinity, which were stated to be the headquarters of the chief sheikh of the Nuers of the whole country under notice, by name of Denkur. Marching through a fairly thick forest of ‘Abu Homera’ trees for an hour, and afterwards over an open grass plain for another hour-and-a-half, brought us up to the village, Keik. Standing in the centre of the village, and seen for about 3 miles off, was a conical mound of earth, well and solidly constructed by Denkur’s people as a token that Denkur was a very big man in that part of the world. It was stated that the bones of innumerable oxen were buried in the body of the mound; the cattle being slaughtered for the occasion. This act was to give greater value to the cone in the eyes of the surrounding tribes, as cattle are the most valued possessions of the tribes of the White Nile, and are practically all they live for; in fact, what religion they possess is centred in the cow. The height of this conical mound was about 50 to 60 feet, many large elephant tusks being firmly planted round the base and on the summit. The largest tusk measured 7 feet 10 inches, but of poor quality, as long exposure to rain and sun had ruined the ivory.

[Sidenote: Dress, hair, &c.]

[Sidenote: Weapons.]

“Having thus traversed as much of this country as was possible on account of water, the party returned to the Sobat by the same route, and arrived on the river bank on May 2. Owing to the extreme shyness of the Nuers, it was difficult to collect much information of their customs. Like all tribes of the Sobat, they are stark naked, and owing to their living in their own country, unmolested and out of all possibility of being in touch with civilization, it is only natural that they are sunk in barbarism and retain to the full all the inherited customs of their savage ancestors. Their hair is left to grow to a length of about 10 inches, and is stained red with the ammonia contained in the dung and water of their cattle. Their bodies (of the men) are covered with the white ash of burnt cow-dung, like the Dinka tribe. This results from the men always sleeping in separate tukls, the floor of which is several inches deep with this white ash, resulting from the perpetually burning or smouldering fire of cow-dung inside the tukl; the men actually make their bed in the ashes. The women do not thus cover themselves, but sleep on mats made of dressed cow-hide, and keep their own skins oiled and clean. The young unmarried girls, like the men, wear no covering, but the married women wear a loin cloth of whatever material is available, a leopard, gazelle, or sheep skin. The arms of the men consist entirely of spears (throwing) and shields, with the universal knob-kerry; bows and arrows are possessed by a very few—rifles they have none. It was reported that one of the big sheikhs possessed himself of a few at one time, but broke them up and made bracelets for his ladies. As I have mentioned above, the main wealth of the Nuers lies in their cattle and flocks of sheep. As the importance or otherwise of a man is gauged entirely by the number of his cattle, it follows that the quickest way to become powerful is for an individual or a village to appropriate the cattle of another individual or a village, or better still, of another tribe, and thus little raids of this kind are not infrequent.

“At Nerol another khor joins Khor Filus, by name Khor Nerol, or Chirol, which is said to connect with the village of Nyandeng, on the Sobat. Owing to lack of water, it was found impracticable to explore any distance up this khor.”

SECTION 2.—THE COUNTRY SOUTH OF THE SOBAT AND NORTH OF N. LAT. 5° BETWEEN BAHR EL JEBEL AND ABYSSINIAN FRONTIER.

(a) General Description.

The country included in the above limits comprises an area 300 miles by 200, which, except along its eastern, northern, and western margins, still remains practically virgin soil untrodden by a white man.

Our only direct information regarding the interior of this region is furnished by the Faivre Expedition (1898) which followed the course of the Pibor for about 60 miles above the Akobo junction, by the expedition (1902) led by Major A. Blewitt, which marched nearly due south up the banks of the Khor Filus for about 70 miles, and by Lieutenant Comyn[96] who explored the so-called Pibor for 170 miles beyond the Akobo junction in September, 1904.

Except perhaps in the extreme south the whole of this area seems to be a flat alluvial grassy plain, during the rains, marshy and liable to be inundated by the various canal-like watercourses traversing it generally from south to north, but during the dry season probably arid and waterless for considerable stretches. In the south the forest is perhaps finer and more generally distributed than further north, where thin belts of the ubiquitous heglig, kittr, and talh occasionally vary the monotony of this vast grass-covered plain.

Though a flat and somewhat unattractive country to the explorer, there is more than one interesting problem awaiting solution, chief of which is the Pibor question.[96]

The course of the mysterious Oquelokur which drains the northern slopes of the Latuka hills and the Kos, its supposed affluent after entering the Sudan, also awaits investigation. When Captain Borton visited the Beri at J. Lafol at the foot of which, according to existing maps, the Kos should flow, he could see or hear nothing of this stream. At Bor, too, nothing has been seen or heard of any large khor for at least 15 miles inland, though the natives there say the Beir tribe live on a large khor three or four days to the east. It seems therefore probable that the so-called Oquelokur flows further east than is shown on maps, and that it and possibly the Kos drain into the Pibor and thence into the Sobat.

With regard to the source of the Khor Filus, the only information that has been obtained emanates from natives living near its mouth, who vaguely say it “comes from Bor,” the reputed starting point of the other large khors Nifar, Diar, and Gaweir (perhaps different names for the same khor), which are said to flow northwards between the Filus and Bahr El Zeraf. Mr. E. Grogan certainly crossed several wide lagoons or spills just north of Bor, so possibly what the natives say regarding the origin of these khors is correct. For description of the Khor Filus, vide p. 139.

As regards the inhabitants of the interior, all we know is that the Nuers live on the Khor Filus as far south as 8° north latitude, that the Beri or Beir tribe live some 50 to 80 miles east of the Nile between Bor and Uganda, and that the Agibba tribe live on the so-called Upper Pibor, apparently only some 60 miles east of Bor.

(b) Bahr El Zeraf.[97]

[Sidenote: General.]

Bahr El Zeraf is the name given to the eastern branch of the Bahr El Jebel, which leaves that river somewhere in the neighbourhood of Shambe, and flows into the Bahr El Abiad or White Nile near Tonga, about 100 miles up-stream of Kodok. It has not been navigated in recent years above a point about 180 miles from its junction with the White Nile. Here it opens out into several channels and lagoons, which are for the most part blocked with sudd, and it is difficult to determine which is the main channel. According to native report a through channel to the Bahr El Jebel, navigable for steamers at high Nile, does exist. Whether such is the case has not yet been ascertained.

The general direction of the river is from S.S.W. to N.N.E. The current is much stronger at the head waters of the river than in its lower reaches, except where it flows into the White Nile, which it does through a narrow channel.

[Sidenote: Width. Depth.]

The river averages about 60 yards in width, and nowhere does navigation present any difficulty until nearing the sudd region. Its depth is generally 5 to 10 feet or more, even at low Nile.

[Sidenote: Banks.]

The rise and fall of the Bahr El Zeraf is considerable. In May the banks, which are then hard and steep, are from 5 to 10 feet above the level of the river, which at high Nile, in spite of the opening of the Bahr El Jebel channel, appears still to overflow its banks almost everywhere. This has, no doubt, killed the trees close to the old channel, masses of dead stumps being a feature of the river.

[Sidenote: Roads.]

The country inland in May is dry and level, affording good going, but the only path near the river and parallel to it passable at all seasons of the year is said to be on the left bank. This runs from opposite Tonga on the White Nile up the left bank and crosses to the right bank near Ajiung thence up the right bank to the neighbourhood of Bor. During the dry season water along this route is said to be scarce. The right bank is said to be impassable owing to swamps and elephants. Mr. Grogan, however, followed the right bank from Ajiung to the White Nile, and in April, 1904, Captain J. S. Liddell marched without difficulty with camels from Khor Attar to Twi, leaving the Zeraf about 20 to 30 miles to the west. Much of the country traversed, but at this season dry, had been flooded to a depth of 18 inches by the overflow of a large khor to the east named Gaweir. The road followed is chiefly used by the Dinkas in the rains, as in the dry season water, which is stored in fulas, is scarce.

The banks of the Zeraf are almost invariably fringed with Um Suf, a few yards wide.

[Sidenote: Sudd.]

Most of the sudd in the lakes at the head of the river appears to be growing, though on the edges it is floating and liable to become detached at any time; this is specially noticeable on the western lake or head of the river. The water is strongly discoloured after the 100th mile, and gets more so as the end of the navigable water is reached. Hippopotami, though scarce on the lower reaches, are very numerous on the higher ones, and in the many lagoons through which the channel flows.

The sudd is of three kinds:—

(1) Sudd growing up from bottom and immovable.

(2) Small low floating sudd in large patches, but loosely hanging together, and easily broken up or pushed away.

(3) Patches of high sudd floating and connected by very fibrous roots, and very difficult to separate or clear; very liable to entangle in the stern wheel of steamer.

The first and second can be steamed through with difficulty. The latter has to be cut to pieces by hand and disintegrated.

[Sidenote: Wood.]

Between 30th and 148th miles there is no place where wood can be cut, except by cutting it in water (October, 1898). Beyond that, there is no wood at all.

[Sidenote: Inhabitants.]

The inhabitants of the island formed by the Zeraf, Jebel, and White Nile are Nuers, who also occupy the right bank of the Zeraf from its mouth to about opposite Shambe. The right bank appears to have been originally inhabited by Dinkas, of whom a few are still to be found living among the Nuers, whilst the hinterland of the right bank of the Zeraf is still occupied by them. They, however, live in dread of the Nuers, and many of them have left their villages and have sought safety on the river Sobat.

The Nuers are very shy, but having got over their first timidity on meeting strangers they are cheery and open-hearted, evincing none of that suspicion and churlishness which is such an ever-present characteristic of the Dinkas, even in the more northern districts, nor that inexpressible laziness, a trait of both Dinkas and Shilluks.

The men, boys, and unmarried women are, of course, naked. The married women wear loin cloths of skin, and a few of the men leopard skins. They all affect the long red-dyed hair, the universal custom of the Nuer tribes.

The following is a detailed description of the various Nuer districts on both banks of the Bahr El Zeraf as far as is at present known (taken from a report by Captain H. H. Wilson, 1903):—

[Sidenote: Lak.]

The first district on entering the Zeraf is Lak, of which the head Sheikh is Fador Wad Koing (1903). His country is of great extent, and split up into various sub-districts. This district extends between the Zeraf, Bahr El Jebel, and White Nile, near Tonga, the majority of the villages and people being nearer the Bahr El Jebel than the Zeraf. Only a very small proportion of them winter on the latter river, the majority do so on the White Nile, up-stream of the mouth of the Zeraf. The chief village of Lak, and in which Fador himself resides, is called Fulwal, and is close to the Bahr El Jebel.

The only sub-district of Lak which is on or near the Zeraf, is Warao, of which the Sheikh is one Warao Wad Koing. This sub-district is entirely on the right bank of the Zeraf, at about 50 miles from its mouth, the winter hunting village being situated about 1 mile inland, on the right bank of a big khor known as Bahn, which runs into the Zeraf at this point. The inland village where the people reside during the rains and grow their crops, is about two hours’ march inland, and is called Fulfam; the sheikh himself resides in this village.

[Sidenote: Thiang.]

The district of Thiang is also a large one, being situated on both the right and left banks of the Zeraf, at or about 80 miles from the mouth. The head Sheikh is Toi Wad Thief[98], who has two big villages, both on the left bank, called respectively, Fakoi and Fai-at. The people living on the right bank spread themselves between the Zeraf and Jebel rivers, and in the winter descend to the banks of either or both of these rivers to graze their cattle. The people on the right bank have their “rain” village at a place called Khandak, about three hours inland on the right bank at 80 miles. The Sheikh of this section is called Deng. These people are great hunters of the elephant.

[Sidenote: Gaweir.]

The villages of this district are seen from the river at about 120 miles, standing about 1 to 2 miles back, with a thick belt of trees behind them; just north of these trees are seen several clumps of deleib palms, and a few solitary dom palms. This district is on the left bank entirely, as far as could be ascertained. The Sheikh of the district is one Nyal Wad Jek[98], a young man well disposed to the Government, and who has only recently succeeded his father as sheikh. He is very well supported by his uncle, Niar Wad Koing, an elderly man. These people remain in the same place all the year round; the ground being sufficiently high to admit of their building their rain villages in proximity to the river. This was the furthest point visited by Captain Wilson (1903). The information regarding the remaining district is from hearsay.

[Sidenote: Fasheikh.]

This is the district ruled over by Sheikh Diu, who, being an influential man in these parts, is known by this name only. He rules his own district only, and has nothing to do with the other Nuer districts above mentioned, each of which is independent, under its own sheikh. This district lies in the upper region of the Zeraf on the east bank, and the name Fasheikh applies to the inland district, where Diu and his people reside in the rains, as opposed to the village of Ajiung, which is the winter village.

The history of Diu’s occupation of this district is interesting, and was supplied by several men, who may be quoted as local authorities. In the days of the old Government it was a large Dinka district, the chief sheikhs of which were two men well known to the present Government, i.e., Aiung Yor and Agweir Owae, who are, at the present time, settled on the left bank of the Sobat, at M’Yolga, vide p. 139. At that time, Diu was somewhere on the Bahr El Jebel, and the Nuer sheikh on the Zeraf was one Bil Wad Teng, who lived at the spot that is pointed out as the zeriba of Kuchuk Ali, the Khartoum trader. The two lived together, the trader probably working the country under the guidance of the sheikh. On the retirement of the Government from these parts and the disappearance of Kuchuk Ali, Diu came down and seized the Dinka country to the south of this spot, turning out the Dinkas under the above-mentioned sheikhs, and establishing himself as the paramount power in the district. He is stated to consider himself a “fakir” in the same way as Denkur; but that he is not hostile to the Government is clear from the fact that he sent his representatives to Kodok last year.

Fasheikh is stated to be about three hours’ march inland from Ajiung, but inaccessible owing to the intervening swampy ground.

(c) R. Awai or Atem.

[Sidenote: River Atem.]

An important branch of the Bahr El Jebel appears to leave the main stream through the swamp and sudd to the north of Bor, and to flow north-west parallel to it and at a distance of perhaps 5 or 6 miles to the east. For about 30 miles below Bor, this branch, known by the Dinkas of Pabek as the river Atem, and by those at Tau as the Awai—the “Gertrude Nile” of Grogan—is said to be blocked by sudd. The Dinkas, however, say that Arabi Dafaalla sent a steamer down it from Bor to the junction of the Mading. In May, 1904, Sir William Garstin, G.C.M.G., and Captain J. S. Liddell explored this river by steamer as far up-stream as the village of Tau within 40 miles of Bor. At Tau the natives said it was blocked by sudd 10 miles further south. Up to this point the river was never less than 4 feet deep, though its breadth varied considerably, and to enable a steamer with barges to pass through it would require a certain amount of clearing.

[Sidenote: River Mading.]

About 55 miles below Bor the Atem or Awai bifurcates. One branch known as the R. Mading, flowing north, is at first a fine river 80 yards wide and 5 or 6 feet deep but quickly narrows and looses its water in the marshes, and after 7 miles becomes an insignificant stream. It is said to be completely blocked by sudd a little lower down.

[Sidenote: River Awai.]

The main branch known only as the Awai bends westwards and flows as an easily navigable stream, though difficult for a steamer with two barges, through the usual reedy swamp to the lakes a little north of Shambe. Between the Mading and Shambe the Awai has two main outlets into the Bahr El Jebel. One from Fajak, navigable only for dugouts, spills into the main river near Abu Kuka, but the principal channel, only a few hundred yards long connecting with the Jebel, is about 8 miles up-stream of Shambe. This is easily navigable by steamers.

[Sidenote: Banks.]

The banks of the Awai and Mading are generally swamp, papyrus or grass, but from the former, about 7 miles from the Mading junction, ant hills on more or less dry ground are visible. On the eastern bank of the Atem forest approaches the river and for 10 miles north of Tau the right bank is high and firm, though liable to be flooded. The western bank is everywhere swampy.

[Sidenote: Inhabitants.]

The Nuers do not appear to extend south of the latitude of Shambe. Here the banks of the rivers are thinly populated by Dinkas. From a few miles north of the Mading junction to Tau is the Dinka district of Twi—it was with the people of this district that Mr. Grogan had some trouble in 1900. Sheikh Gurung of Pabek in the north of Twi seems, however, very friendly. South of Tau, Bor district commences, the Dinkas of which are said to be not on friendly terms with Twi.

(d) Bor and South.[99]

[Sidenote: Bor.]

There are three sites on the right bank of the Bahr El Jebel known as Bor—the most northern is the site of the Old Government Mudiria, 4 miles further south is Arabi Dafaalla’s deim, and about the same distance still further south is the site of the present Military Post and the proposed site of the Headquarters of the new administrative district of Bor, vide pp. 76, 77.

The bank at all three places is high and firm, but the most roomy landing place is at the most southern site. Wood is everywhere plentiful, as the forest comes down to the water’s edge.

[Sidenote: Inhabitants.]

The inhabitants in the neighbourhood of Bor are Dinkas who live mostly 10 to 15 miles inland. The principal sheikh (Being-Dit) is named Bor, whose village is about 10 miles east of the Dervish deim. Sheikh Kur living about 7 miles north-north-east of Bor is also an important man.

[Sidenote: Being Dit.]

The office of head sheikh (Being Dit) is said to have been from time immemorial in the family of sheikh Bor. It is customary for the Being Dit to nominate his successor from among his near relatives, his selection depending on their individual ability. In the present case, though the eldest son of the Being Dit usually succeeds, sheikh Bor has disregarded the claim of his own two sons, and has nominated Majam, son of his deceased brother, Matj.

If the Being Dit dies suddenly without nominating his successor, an assembly is held to appoint one, a curious fact being that the women, especially the wives of the late Being Dit, have a good deal to say in the selection.

[Sidenote: Justice.]

Owing perhaps to the weakness of the central authority, sheikh Bor, there seem to be practically no penalties for offences. The fine of one cow appears to be considered sufficient for any crime from murder downwards. Capital punishment is never awarded. In the case of theft, the misdemeanant, if traced, is merely ordered to restore the stolen property. This he sometimes does and sometimes does not.

[Sidenote: Villages.]

The houses of the villages are much scattered, which renders the occupants very defenceless in case of raids by the dreaded Beir or Beri tribe under sheikh Lom, who lives several days further inland in a south-easterly or easterly direction.

The tukls are well and neatly built, the walls being made of mud or dura stalks covered with daub. The doorway usually leads into a sort of hall or porch about 3 to 4 feet high; this again has an inner door. This is said to be for protection against hyenas.

The usual buildings of a family consist of one tukl (Ud) per wife, one extra large tukl (Luak as cow stable, and the “Gu” or granary, a kind of miniature tukl raised off the ground on wooden legs.

[Sidenote: Water supply.]

In the rains water is stored in fulas, as the water in these gets low, a series of circular holes, 2 or 3 feet deeper than the fula, are dug round its circumference, and the remainder of the water is drained into them. These holes are then thatched with dura stalks, and water is economised by thus diminishing the loss by evaporation, as well as by draining the wet mud at the bottom of the fula.

When these holes run dry water has to be carried by the women often 10 miles or more from the river.

[Sidenote: Communications.]

From Bor a dry road, though not yet explored, undoubtedly leads north to Twi or Twich. A good path with rest-houses at frequent intervals leads south up the right bank to Mongalla and Gondokoro.

Communication with the Aliab, a tribe rich in cattle and grain, living on the west bank opposite to and south of Bor, is maintained by dugouts to Uternau, thence by road to Sheikh Anok, Mek of the Aliab, who lives about 25 miles west of Bor Military Post.

[Sidenote: Cultivation.]

A good deal of dura is grown by sheikhs Bor and Kur. It is of the white variety and of excellent quality. The Dinkas are great smokers, and cultivate sufficient tobacco for their requirements.

[Sidenote: Cattle and sheep.]

Large numbers of cattle (Wong) and a good many sheep (Amal) and goats (Biu) are owned by these Dinkas. The grazing stables or cattle zeribas are called “Mura.” The price (Tiek) of a wife used to be five cows or forty goats. Cattle being now scarce, owing to Arabi Dafaalla’s prolonged residence at Bor, the price of a wife has been reduced to one cow.

[Sidenote: Arms.]

Bows (Danga) and arrows (Juet) are in general use, and are looked upon as the principal weapon for fighting, as their lances are indifferently manufactured.

Some of the wood from which the bows are made is said to come from Dar Fertit; the arrows are made of cane with iron or hard-wood points, and are poisoned by soaking them in the milky juice (Byol) of the Euphorbia candelabrum, which grows hereabouts.

The Dinkas are very inexpert smiths, and so generally have their lances made by the Jurs and Aliab of the west bank in exchange for sheep or goats.

In addition to their bows and spears they usually carry an ebony club.

[Sidenote: Ornaments.]

Iron bracelets (Lung Kok) are made locally. These are about the only things a Dinka smith can make. A Dinka receives his bracelets on coming of age and is then not allowed to part with them.

Ivory bracelets (Gong) are only occasionally seen, as these people are not great hunters, though elephants are very numerous in their country.

The Jenotor[100] (Guainakwach) are the favourite beads, but they are very particular as to the kind. The most popular are black with red and white spots. Forty of these beads make a necklace and will purchase a sheep or goat; five is the price of a hen and three will buy five eggs.

Brass wire is not nearly so much appreciated as iron or the right sort of beads. It is hammered into bracelets by the smiths, but they prefer to buy these ready made.

Goat skin bracelets are also worn by the men as well as by the women who wear, in addition, brass bracelets round the wrists and ankles, and strings of small blue or white beads round the waist. The men as a rule are naked, whilst the women wear the usual skin apron in front and occasionally behind. At present cotton cloth is considered a prohibitive luxury and is not of much use as barter, though acceptable as a present.

[Sidenote: Word of greeting and language. Habits.]

The word of greeting is “Akingedo” and the reply to this is the same word repeated.

The dialect of these southern Dinkas varies considerably from that spoken in the northern districts.

The Dinka is so abnormally lazy that he has no desire whatever to hire himself for work of any description. Carriers are most difficult to obtain from them even when applied for through the medium of their most influential sheikhs.

At certain seasons they are busily occupied with their cultivation, but for the remainder of the year, with the exception of the few engaged in superintending the grazing of the cattle, they live in absolute idleness, varied only by an occasional and generally futile hunting or fishing expedition.

The women on the other hand are very industrious. On them falls the heavy work of pounding the dura into flour and preparing food and other household duties, as well as carrying water which has often to be brought from a great distance. Salt is not eaten by the Dinkas, nor is it sought after like sugar, and they do not appear to have any substitute for it. The women usually drink milk flavoured with cow’s urine, but the men as a rule drink it unadulterated.

[Sidenote: Religion.]

As is stated on p. 128, the Dinka believes in a Creator of the world and mankind known as Deng-Dit. It was only after man had learnt to sacrifice cattle and sheep to Deng-Dit that woman became fruitful and man was able to propagate his species.

The Dinkas have regular priests (Tieit) who are not, however, professional men, but live and work like the ordinary individual. These priests are believed to have supernatural powers of conversing with those who are dead and have become the children of Deng-Dit.

This communion with the dead is held on the occasion of a ceremony to commemorate the deceased or sometimes in cases of serious illness.

Mr. R. Türstig gives the following interesting description of these ceremonies:—

“It was the memorial day for a deceased wife of sheikh Bor. At about 7 a.m. he and some of his people went to the tukl, which had belonged to her, and sat down in front of the doorway; on the other side near the ‘Gu’ or granary sat the deceased wife’s ‘locum tenens’ as well as other wives. In the open space between them the Tieit or priest sat on his cow-hide mat. Close by was a tree from which the branches had been shorn, and to which a large number of cow-horns had been affixed—said by sheikh Bor to be a very old erection—and to the bottom of the tree a live goat was fastened.

“Sheikh Bor and his people then commenced to question the priest on many points with regard to which they desired the opinion of the deceased wife; the priest meanwhile sat with legs crossed supporting his head with one hand, whilst with the other he continued to rattle a bottle-shaped-gourd half-full of lubia beans. After much shaking and rattling he proceeded, having first directly addressed the deceased and having made a suitable pause to enable her to reply, to give a detailed answer on each question in a deep guttural tone, his eyes meanwhile being rigidly fixed on the ground, his voice (similar to a ventriloquist) sounding as though it were not his own.

“Though I was unable to understand much that was being said, one, at least, of the questions and answers referred to the approaching visit of the Mudir.

“Having obtained all the information required, sheikh Bor rose, the priest remaining seated, seized the sheep, threw it down, and then slowly and solemnly cut the throat of the animal with a lance, remaining himself the while in an upright position. The blood having spurted out, the ceremony was over, and the old sheikh said ‘Now let us go to your house.’

“On another occasion a somewhat similar ceremony took place in connection with a sick man. The same priest officiated, but there were more people, and it lasted from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. A good deal of dancing was performed by women who were decked in fantastic fashion with ostrich feathers, etc. One woman carried a gourd full of liquid butter, with which she anointed in most liberal fashion the necks of those present as well as the entire body of the bull which was subsequently sacrificed. The priest invariably receives the ribs of the animal as his portion, but in this case no one partook of any of the flesh until 5 a.m. the following morning. On the whole, the Dinkas did not strike me as a particularly superstitious race.”

Vide also Chap. VII, p. 162, and compare with Shilluk religion, Chap. VIII.

[Sidenote: Baris.]

On the right bank, 20 miles south of Bor, the Baris begin and extend to Gondokoro and south. The Sudan Baris appear to be a poor race both materially and mentally. At present they are neither willing to work to increase their cultivation, nor to act as porters. In the days of Baker they were a warlike race, rich in cattle—this spirit and property seem to have vanished under Dervish rule. They appear physically stronger and better built than the Dinkas. Like them they do not appear to inhabit the country more than 20 miles inland. Their inland villages have no wells, but each house has usually five pits dug round it for collecting rainwater. The Baris cultivate dura, simsim, telabun and tobacco. During the last few years their crops have suffered much from drought and floods alternately.

Beads are of little use as trade goods. Brass wire, hoes, iron, and tarbushes, as well as native cotton-cloth (damur) are all acceptable.

The men as a rule carry a long narrow-bladed spear, and go about stark naked. The women wear a leather fringe round the loins, with a tanned skin hanging down behind. The unmarried girls are content with the fringe only.

The women carry their babies on their backs, in skin bags, which can be detached and hung on a cross stick to form a cradle.

The principal Sheikhs of the Bari living on the right bank and working south are Kula, Wungo, Lefo Abu Kuka, Legi Lefo, Lado, and Lowala, and on the left bank Mudi, Wani, and Lado Kanga. They have apparently no tribal organization, and the Sheikhs have very little authority.

[Sidenote: Mongalla.]

Mongalla is the southernmost post of the Sudan Government on the White Nile. It was moved here from Kiro, on the left bank, in April, 1901. It is the residence of a British Inspector and Police Officer; there is also a detachment of two companies under a British officer furnished from the Sudanese battalion at Taufikia. There are here Government offices, barracks, hospital, and residences of officials built of brick. A gunboat is always stationed here. Mongalla is on the right bank, 23 miles north of Gondokoro, and 13 and 12 miles from the Belgian stations, Lado and Kiro respectively.

[Sidenote: Rains.]

The rainy season in this district is spread over the period from the end of February to November, but during this season rain is by no means constant. At first there are intervals of a week or even a fortnight between the rainstorms, but after the middle of June, when the heavy rains commence, there is, as a rule, one storm during every 24 hours.

[Sidenote: Temperature.]

The temperature in these regions is comparatively cool, and the thermometer very seldom rises to 100° Fahr.

[Sidenote: Health.]

The natives appear healthy, and there seems no reason why, with ordinary precautions, white races should not enjoy equally good health, though the more southern portions, at any rate, of this district are certainly within the “Blackwater” fever zone.

(e) The Beri Tribe.

[Sidenote: Description.]

The following information is taken from a report by Captain N. T. Borton, who visited these people in April, 1904.

The Beri tribe appear to be a mixture of the Bari and Latuka. They live on a hill about 2,000 feet high called Jebel Lafol which is composed of granite with several fair sized trees growing on it. It lies about 50 miles south-east by east from Mongalla.

[Sidenote: Houses.]

The hill is artificially terraced with granite slabs throughout and on these terraces, practically right up to the top of the hill, are built the tukls of the people, exactly similar to Bari Tukls except that the sides are made of strips of wood instead of reeds. The fighting men live round the foot of the hill and the older people higher up.

[Sidenote: Water.]

There is no water on the hill itself—all has to be carried from rain pools of which there are at this time of year about a dozen round and fairly close to the hill.

[Sidenote: Cattle.]

All cattle were driven off during our visit and were only beginning to return when I left—there did not appear to be many really large cattle zeribas, though these too may have been removed at our approach which had been watched for by day and night for the last three days.

[Sidenote: Chief.]

Alikori[101] is the chief of the tribe and holds absolute sway. He is an oldish man of about 65 years of age, about 5 feet 8 inches in height, and like nearly all his tribe, wears a feather quill piercing his lower lip to allow the saliva to run off, when smoking, with a minimum of trouble to the smoker.

[Sidenote: Succession.]

The rule of succession is that brothers succeed each other according to seniority; after the youngest brother’s death, the succession passes to the eldest son of the eldest brother and so on through the family.

Alikori succeeded his father Aseri who had no brothers, the present heir apparent is named Waller Mari.

[Sidenote: Beris.]

All Beris stated they have no connection whatever with the Beir tribe opposite Bor[102] and say they have no other district but Jebel Lafol. From the top of it one can see 50 miles or more in the Bor direction; there did not seem to be any roads and no hills were visible. All tribes in these parts live on hills.

[Sidenote: Cultivation.]

The cultivation on the vast plain lying round the hill consists of dura, tobacco, and a few ground nuts only. The dura was about a foot high and appeared to be well looked after and the ground cleaned.

[Sidenote: Trade.]

The only trade is the purchase of dura for sheep, carried on principally with the Lokova on Mount Illyria and a little with our Bari Sheikhs Lado, Lowala, etc., on the Nile.

[Sidenote: Enemies.]

The present fashionable enemy is the Latuka tribe belonging to Queen Topein—relations with other powers are reported as satisfactory.

[Sidenote: Population.]

The population probably amounts to about 3,000 men all told.

[Sidenote: Health.]

People seem very healthy, quite the opposite of the Baris; no disgusting sights like one sees in their villages; malformed children are destroyed at birth. Sleeping sickness is unknown.

[Sidenote: Legal.]

All disciplinary powers are vested in the chief. For premeditated murder punishment is death. For killing in quarrel, etc., the offender must pay a boy to the family of the deceased. Thefts of cattle must be repaid or the offender is exiled. Thefts of food are not looked upon as offences but as occasional necessities. For adultery the co-respondent must pay 1 cow, 5 sheep and 5 iron malotes (hoes); the wife is dealt with by her husband in the seclusion of the home, but must not be killed.

[Sidenote: Customs.]

The birth of a child does not give an excuse for a festival of any sort.

Marriages are arranged when the girls are very young. The bridegroom interviews his proposed father-in-law, as in other countries, and arranges to pay so many sheep a year until the lady reaches a marriageable age. The ceremony is then celebrated amid much merissa drinking. Divorce is allowed to husbands only; if granted they receive back their marriage settlement. A widow marries her deceased husband’s brother; if she has no brother-in-law she may marry someone else, but she usually becomes the property of the head chief.

Death is believed to be the end of all things. No after state is believed in. A sheep is always killed over a dead man’s grave.

[Sidenote: Language.]

The language is peculiar to the tribe.

[Sidenote: Clothing.]

The men go naked or wear a short mantle of skin over the shoulders. Women wear a broad skin covering from the waist in front and behind.

[Sidenote: Arms.]

The same practically as the Baris.

[Sidenote: Visitors.]

Alikori states no white man has ever been to him before (April, 1904). Emin Pasha once passed with a concourse of people going towards Bor but did not stop.

[Sidenote: Siege.]

Arabi Dafaalla besieged the hill for 13 days in 1897; he then drew off having suffered considerable loss. The natives used to rush the water holes every night at a different point and thus bring in enough to last for the next day.

[Sidenote: Supplies.]

Flour and sheep could only be obtained on payment by repeatedly demanding them and were then only forthcoming in very small quantities. It is probable that when the Beri are again visited supplies of grain and meat will be more readily produced.

[Sidenote: Transport.]

Mules, donkeys, and in the dry season camels could all be advantageously employed for transport.

[Sidenote: Game.]

Giraffe, hartebeest, topé and oribi practically comprised all the game seen, but there were many fresh tracks of elephant and rhino. One herd of giraffe numbered over eighty animals.

[Sidenote: Road.]

The best route from Mongalla to J. Lafol is up the right bank of the branch of the Bahr El Jebel, south of Mongalla to Sheikh Lado’s or Lowala’s (9 miles, thence south-east up the Felluru river viâ Nierchuk to junction (18 miles) of track from Ali Bey and Gondokoro, water in dry season all along this river. Thence general direction east, passing two pools, liable to be nearly dry in dry season, to Khor Wandida (15 miles), dry in April. Thence still east to Wallada lake, 12 miles, thence 11 miles north-east to J. Lafol, passing a marsh half-way where water should be always obtainable. Total distance about 65 miles. Between the Felluru River and J. Lafol there is no track.

(f) Country South of the Akobo.[103]

[Sidenote: Boma.]

South of the junction of the Ajibur and Akobo rivers, an undulating tract of country is traversed before the foot of the Boma hills is reached. The soil is generally of a gravelly nature, but the district is often most charmingly wooded, whilst striking cocked-hat shaped peaks to the west enclose the valley of the Ajibur and add variety to the scene. Until the Boma hills are entered the country appears to be quite uninhabited, for it was not until we reached the lower slopes that we observed natives for the first time gathering the fruit of the many palms that grow, as well as bamboo, hereabouts. The hilly district of Boma[104] is then entered, and many streams, valleys, and ridges have to be crossed. The soil is seemingly very fertile and capable of producing all kinds of cereals. Proceeding as we did in a south-westerly direction through these hills, we, of course, only traversed quite a small corner, so to speak, of the country, but were much impressed by the possibilities of the place as the site of a future post along the frontier. The natives appeared quite friendly; the scenery at times was really grand; and plenty of food and water could doubtless be always procurable once the natives saw that they would be protected from outside raiding parties. The average altitude of this region is generally from 3,000 to 4,000 feet above the sea level, but other ridges and heights attain an altitude of close on 6,000 feet. The natives were exceedingly shy, but eventually we persuaded them to approach us, though unfortunately we were unable to converse with them except by that most unsatisfactory of means—signs. Physically, the men—we saw no women at all at close quarters—are finely built and appear a higher type than the Nuers or Anuaks. Many of them wore ostrich feathers in their head-dress, and several had large circular knives—like those of the Turkana, but much broader—round their wrists. Beads were very generally worn, and many of the young bloods had broad bands of red beads, picked out with patches of blue and white ones, fastened across the forehead. Small skin aprons, not unlike those of the Turkana, were also worn by some of the men. Most of the men’s spears were sheathed and not carried like those of the Nuers and Anuaks uncovered. The huts we saw were wretched little grass erections with no appearance of stability, and gave one the impression of being little more than mere rough shelters. We gathered from these natives that they had recently been raided by the Magois, whom they hate and fear, and had in consequence no goats or sheep left. We certainly did not see any, but at the same time the men looked so sturdy and well-filled that they probably had plenty of grain food. Moreover, the wild fig grows fairly abundantly along the banks of some of the streams. The loftier heights of the country are well wooded, and though, perhaps, they were somewhat distant to judge accurately, I think probably these trees would provide excellent timber for building purposes. The climate appeared most bracing, and, judging by the few days experience we had, the rainfall must be very heavy.

Grand solid rock peaks in places spring out from the ridges in a curious manner, and by their precipitous appearance would probably tax the resource of the most skilled Alpine climbers to reach their summits. We were able to learn nothing regarding the customs or habits of these natives, and, in fact, from the time we left Anuak country until we reached the Uganda Protectorate had to carry out all conversation by signs. Judging by the great display of beads made, for trading purposes I have little doubt but that red, blue and white beads would be readily taken in exchange for food. The small bead known as “pound” beads would, I think, be far less popular than a slightly larger variety about the size of a pea. The beads should be opaque, and the ordinary glass beads procurable in Cairo, I fancy, would be little sought after.

[Sidenote: Karuno.]

To the south of Boma and some short distance away from the foot of the hills, a pleasantly wooded tract of country is traversed, consisting of alternate plains of open bush and grass land, whilst water is obtained from khors running in a westerly direction across this plain, before turning north. Further south, again, however, a most uninviting dried up plain, which, after rains, would probably be converted into heavy bog, is met with, and water now becomes a most-serious consideration as far as about lat. 5° 30′ north, where a broad sandy-bedded khor winds its way across the plain in a westerly direction. Along this river bed we found the Karuno tribe settled in considerable numbers. They appeared to be a somewhat powerful tribe, and were certainly the most elaborately bedecked and prosperous looking set of men we saw during our journey. They possessed large numbers of cattle, goats and sheep, and donkeys, and also grow grain along the banks of the Karuno. Like all the natives of these regions, they are extremely suspicious of strangers, and though not unfriendly, are by no means anxious, it seemed to us, to have anything to do with Europeans. I do not remember these people having ever before been mentioned by any traveller; but on comparing my map with Mr. Donaldson Smith’s we seemed most obviously to be at the place shown by him as inhabited by the Magois tribe. On enquiring of these natives where the Magois were, they pointed away across the plain to the west, and gave us to understand they had been driven away in that direction by the Turkana, who had come up in force from the south. Although we tried to induce the Karuno people to bring grain or goats and sheep into camp for sale, they would not do so, nor would they even provide us with guides. This is probably more due to the fear these natives entertain of travelling into their neighbour’s country than from any unfriendly motives. Here, where raids and counter-raids are frequently being indulged in, considerable hostility naturally exists between the several tribes living next each other. The Karuno in some respects are not unlike the Turkana, except that their head-dress is not a long pendant bag-shaped one, but more like a squat chignon, which is stuck full of fine vari-coloured ostrich feathers. Beads are worn by them in great quantities, chiefly red, white, and a variegated one known in East Africa as “Punda malia” (zebra). Many of the young warriors in addition to numerous strings round the neck, had solid bands of beads—similar to those we saw in Boma—fastened across the forehead. The elders have most handsome head-dresses made of cowrie shells, whilst others again wore skull caps made of small white and red beads worked into a neat design of many circles. Physically, the men are well set up and sturdy, though they do not run to height much and are probably little above the average stature.

The women are not unlike the Turkana, and weave their hair into straight ringlets which fall round the head. They also wear beads in great numbers round the neck, whilst the lower part of the body is covered with a skin apron, cut away at the side with a flap in front and a long trailing tail arrangement behind.

In addition to long handled spears, the men carry short stabbing spears, and oblong-shaped hide shields.

Exactly what extent of country the Karuno occupy I can hardly say, but I should imagine they do not exist further east than the foot of the escarpment, where the country becomes thickly wooded with thorn bush. In a westerly direction they probably do not extend more than 2 or 3 miles beyond where we first struck the Karuno river bed, leaving an uninhabited area of country between themselves and the Magois. After leaving the Karuno, and striking at first in a south-easterly, and later in an easterly direction, we reached and travelled along the foot of a rocky escarpment through an irregular bay, as it were, in the hills. The valley, between our line of march and broken hills to the south, was thickly wooded with thorn bush, and water was difficult to find. We saw a few old grass huts of natives, which had been deserted for some months previously, but saw no signs of human life. It is probable that this tract of country can only be occupied during the rainy season of the year, owing to the extreme scarcity of water.

[Sidenote: Musha.]

[Sidenote: Mount Naita.]

After we had worked our way through these hills, finally crossing the eastern ridge by an easy pass, we found ourselves in a broad plain, thickly covered with thorn bush. Some 30 miles east more hills seemed to bar progress in that direction, whilst to the south the thorny plain appeared to extend for some 40 miles to the foot of the high mountain masses to the west of Lake Rudolf. We were now in the tract of country called by Dr. Donaldson Smith, Musha. The thorn-bush plain terminated to the north at the foot of two lofty mountains, the more westerly one of which attains a height of close on 6,000 feet, whilst the loftier mass to the south-east of it (previously known to me as Mount Naita, and called by Dr. Donaldson Smith, Etua; whilst in Bottégo’s map it is named Aguzzo) reaches a height of about 7,300 feet. We passed numerous kraals whilst journeying in an easterly direction across this plain, which had all been temporarily abandoned by the natives, with whom we could get no intercourse, as they refused to approach us. On several occasions, when we saw two or three natives watching us from a distance, men were sent out to try and induce them to come into camp, but they fled before our men could get within even shouting distance of them. We were most anxious to obtain the service of guides, as the country before us was unknown, and the anxieties regarding water had become very great. It would appear, judging by the tracks we saw, that the Musha possess much livestock, consisting of camels, cattle, donkeys, goats, and sheep. In the thick bush, however, these people had little difficulty in driving them away and concealing their animals until we had passed, when presumably they returned again to their kraals. On one occasion, however, our advent was unexpected, as near our camping ground some of our party surprised two or three Musha, who were tending a flock of over 200 goats and sheep, and perhaps a dozen donkeys. The natives fled, leaving everything behind in their little enclosures. Strict orders were issued that these animals were not to be touched, as we hoped by so doing we might induce the natives to understand that we were not a marauding expedition, and were desirous of opening friendly intercourse with them. The animals were left alone all that day and night, but the Musha evidently feared to return, and when we marched off next morning the donkeys gave us a parting bray, which was the nearest approach to friendly intercourse we experienced in this neighbourhood, as we never saw another Musha man during the rest of our journey. In due course we crossed another low range of hills to the south of that grand mountain, Naita, and entered another wooded valley, which ultimately joined that of the River Sacchi, where we arrived on the 1st April, and our difficulties regarding water for the present were at an end. I would here remark that perhaps for nine months in the year, for a large party to cross this bit of country from Boma to the Sacchi, by the route followed by us, would be a most risky undertaking owing to the extreme scarcity of water. The many watercourses shown on the map were found to be almost without exception merely dry stony beds in which no water was procurable by digging. Fortunately, about the 20th March, rain had fallen to the east of where we then were, and by extraordinary good luck we subsequently found pools at intervals, after long continued search. One point worthy of note is that, in spite of previous rain, we seldom found water in the actual nullah beds, as, owing to their stony nature, the water runs off at once. What water was found was nearly always in depressions some distance away from the banks of these nullahs, where the clayey soil prevented percolation, and retained water in pools until it became evaporated in due course by the hot sun.

[Sidenote: Sacchi river.]

On our previous visit to Lake Rudolf from the south, our old Suk guide, Nyanga by name, had on several occasions pointed out to me the striking Naita peak away to the north-west, and told me that the country thereabouts was the most dreadful one he knew for scarcity of water. I believed him, as he was about the most knowledgable and intelligent native of his class regarding the geography of the country that I have ever met. His information had now been verified by us, and it was with a sigh of relief we found the Sacchi a running stream. To the Swahilis the tract of country we had traversed was always known as Donyiro, which name appears on the map prepared by the Macdonald expedition.

From very imperfect data I am inclined to think that between our southerly route from Boma and the valley of the Sacchi the escarpment we skirted is the edge of a fine hilly plateau,[105] varying in height probably from 3,000 to 5,000 feet above sea level. I imagine all that tract of country to be a fertile and probably well-watered region, very much like Boma itself. Whether it is thickly populated it is difficult to say, as the country is absolutely unknown to Europeans, but to traverse it from north to south and east to west with mule transport would probably be most interesting. It would probably be almost too difficult for any pack animals except mules and perhaps donkeys. The much talked of gold, which is discussed by our Swahilis as existing in those parts, might also be found, although I must admit we never saw any gold ornaments worn by natives in the plains bordering that country.

[Sidenote: Game.]

In Sudan territory south of the Sobat the following species are known to exist: Elephant, buffalo, giraffe, rhinoceros, zebra roan-antelope, waterbuck, Mrs. Grey’s waterbuck (cobus maria), white-eared cob (cobus leucotis), Uganda cob, bushbuck, reedbuck, Jackson’s hartebeeste, tiang, lion, leopard, etc.

(g) The Upper Pibor.

[Sidenote: General.]

In August, 1904, the head waters of the so-called Pibor were explored by Lieutenant D. C. Comyn, Black Watch. It was found that 17 miles above the Akobo junction the river bifurcated, one branch known as the Agwei[106] apparently coming from the E. and S.E., the other, known by the Anuaks as Nyanabek, by the Nuers as Kang, and by the Agibbas as Natila, from the S. and S.W.

Following the latter branch, without encountering any serious sudd obstructions, Lieutenant Comyn succeeded, with the aid of a steam launch, in reaching a point which appeared to him to be very near the source of this important feeder of the Pibor.

[Sidenote: Source.]

The flooded plain in which the river seemingly has its origin, is according to Lieutenant Comyn’s sketch, about 60 miles due E. of Bor, and 170 miles by river above the Akobo junction.

[Sidenote: Banks.]

The banks of the Natila are as a rule ill-defined, swampy and sudd-fringed; in places they appear to be as much as 200 to 250 yards apart.

Almost throughout its course the banks were more or less inundated, the left bank being usually the higher, and in its upper reaches the plain was flooded to a depth of a foot or more for many miles round.

[Sidenote: Water-way.]

The water-way varied from 20 to 70 yards in width, and about 20 miles above the Akobo junction, what appeared to be a sudd-covered lake, some 800 yards broad and 6 miles in length, was traversed by a deep and tortuous channel 20 to 30 yards wide.

[Sidenote: Depth.]

The average depth for the first 130 miles was found to be about 20 feet, but in the next 40 miles the river gradually shoaled to about 15 inches, and the direction of its course was then only faintly distinguishable by the band of light-green grass which blocked its bed and precluded further progress.

[Sidenote: Current.]

The current varied from ¾ to 2 miles per hour, the rise and fall of the river apparently depending largely on the local rainfall. In the dry season the plain, and, according to the Agibbas, the river itself dries up.

[Sidenote: Fuel.]

Fuel is plentiful everywhere, the river being fringed with a belt of talh and heglig trees for the greater part of its course.

[Sidenote: J. Atin.]

J. Atin, standing on the left bank, about 1½ miles from the river and about 100 miles from the Akobo junction, forms a conspicuous landmark. It is a solid rocky mass about 2 miles in circumference, and has twin peaks some 400 feet above the plain.

Gordon is said to have marched up the right bank in 1878 (?) and to have crossed to J. Atin, and to have marched thence westwards to the Nile through the Beir or Beri country.

[Sidenote: Inhabitants.]

As is stated on p. 136 the inhabitants of the Lower Pibor are Nuers and a few of the less powerful Anuaks. On the Upper Pibor or Natila a tribe known as the Agibba were found, their first village being Nyanabek, about 70 miles S. of the Akobo. For the next 60 miles villages were frequently seen.

[Sidenote: Agibba tribe.]

Lieutenant Comyn gives the following account of the Agibba tribe, who appear to strongly resemble the Nuers, and also in some respects the Turkana:—

“The Agibbas are a warlike tribe, feared by and fearing the Nuers. Their other neighbours, the Anuaks and Dinkas, they look on with contempt, and buy their suksuk from them. The Abyssinians do not harry this part of the tribe. A few men know the Nuer, Dinka and Anuak dialect. Their physique is good, but their stature is not uniform. Many seem to suffer from hydrocele, and I saw one man with elephantiasis in the leg. They are armed with roughly-made spears of various shapes, wrist knives, and an oblong shield of giraffe hide, and invariably carry their head-rest to sit upon. Their huts are rudely built, of a bee-hive shape, and about the same size as an ordinary tukl.”

“They appear to have no canoes, and I saw no fishing-spears, though plenty of fish baskets. Their ivory ornaments are old and small. The principal men wear over the right elbow a bunch of giraffe tails, the band ornamented with cowrie shells. Their clothing consists of a belt round the waist, and, in front and behind (if a man is well off), a skin often embroidered and edged with beads—most wear a 3½-inch band of red beads with a 1-inch line down the centre across their foreheads. Some of the older men had a bead-covered bowl on their heads instead. The hair of the younger men was dressed very neatly, like an inverted soup plate with the part over the forehead cut oft. They have all sorts of suksuk. What they asked for were (in order of preference) cowrie shells, beads (janitor), brass wire, red, white and other beads. The head sheikh, whose name I think is Nadgweir (they were very averse to telling it) seems a man of character. All seem afraid of him, and said if they took up spears without his permission he would cut their throats. I saw but half-a-dozen of women and no children.”

TABLE OF DISTANCES ALONG THE SOBAT.

------------+------------------+------------------+------------------ | Intermediate. |From Sobat Mouth. | From Khartoum. Place. +------+-----------+------+-----------+------+----------- |Miles.|Kilometres.|Miles.|Kilometres.|Miles.|Kilometres. ------------+------+-----------+------+-----------+------+----------- American | 5½ | 9 | 5½ | 9 | 524 | 843 Mission | | | | | | (Tatug or | | | | | | Deleib) | | | | | | | | | | | | Khor Filus | 4 | 6½ | 9½ | 15½ | 528 | 849½ | | | | | | Gokjak | 10 | 16 | 19½ | 32 | 538 | 865½ | | | | | | Abwong | 63 | 101 | 82½ | 133 | 601 | 966 | | | | | | Nasser | 107 | 172 | 189½ | 306 | 708 | 1138 | | | | | | Pibor Mouth | 27½ | 44 | 217 | 349 | 735½ | 1182 | | | | | | Machar | 36½ | 58½ | 253½ | 406½ | 772 | 1240½ | | | | | | Jokau | 16 | 26 | 269½ | 434 | 788 | 1267 | | | | | | Balankun | 9 | 14½ | 278½ | 448½ | 797 | 1282 | | | | | | Itang | 36 | 58 | 314½ | 507 | 833 | 1340 | | | | | | Fenkio | 23 | 37 | 337½ | 544 | 856 | 1377 | | | | | | Gambela | 18 | 29 | 355½ | 572½ | 874 | 1406 | | | | | | Baro Ford | 26 | 42 | 381½ | 614 | 900 | 1448 ------------+------+-----------+------+-----------+------+-----------

[Footnote 85: Abyssinian boundary.]

[Footnote 86: During the driest season of the year there is no difficulty in marching along either bank. Between Itang and Nasser the best road is along the right bank.]

[Footnote 87: For distances along the Sobat, vide p. 152.]

[Footnote 88: Between the Pibor and this point is a dreary, treeless, uninhabitated region of marsh. Above Gadjak the banks are finely timbered, and the river scenery is quite beautiful.]

[Footnote 89: Many Anuaks are to be seen marked with the Nuer tribal mark, i.e., 6 parallel horizontal lines across the forehead.]

[Footnote 90: Vide footnote to p. 135.]

[Footnote 91: Now moved to Finkio.]

[Footnote 92: Though the supposed mouth at Machar is deep and 30 yards wide, whilst that at Jokau is only 5 yards wide, there seems good reason to doubt if the former is in any way connected with the Khor Garre. Capt. Wilson was informed by the natives in February, 1904, when the Machar was entirely dried up, whilst the Jokau was a strong flowing stream 3 feet deep, that the former is not a mouth of the Garre. In June, 1904, the discharge of the Jokau was very marked, being of a muddy-white colour similar to the Pibor. At Machar, on the other hand, though the khor did contain water, perhaps an overflow from the Baro, no discharge was noticeable.]

[Footnote 93: For description of Upper Pibor, vide p. 151.]

[Footnote 94: In June, 1904, the discharge at its mouth was observed to be a dirty-white colour.]

[Footnote 95: This country was traversed from March to June, 1904, by Mr. McMillan and his expedition. Out of 150 mules and the same number of donkeys only 16 animals survived. Anuak carriers were, however, readily obtainable, from 150 to 380 being constantly employed.]

[Footnote 96: For précis of Lieut. Comyn’s report on his exploration of this river south of the Akobo junction, vide p. 151.]

[Footnote 97: Vide also p. 18, and the itinerary of this river in Vol. II.]

[Footnote 98: Visited Khartoum, 1904.]

[Footnote 99: Most of this information was supplied by Mr. R. Türstig.]

[Footnote 100: Or “Gianotta;” vide p. 120, footnote.]

[Footnote 101: There is another branch of this tribe living further north under a chief named Lom (vide p. 144).]

[Footnote 102: This statement appears to be untrue.]

[Footnote 103: Extract from a report by Major Austin, R.E., 1901.]

[Footnote 104: Boma was visited by Messrs. Bulpett and Jessen in June, 1904. The inhabitants were found to be very friendly, and a certain amount of grain was obtainable from them. Iron wire—not brass—was what they asked for in payment. Crops in Boma are harvested in June. The maximum temperature registered on the Boma-Musha plateau was 85° F.]

[Footnote 105: Messrs. Bulpett and Jessen reached a point about 30 miles N.N.E. of Mount Naita in June, 1904, and report that this plateau appeared very rocky and cut up by water courses, which contained water in pools in June. The land seemed uninhabitable and unsuited to cultivation.]

[Footnote 106: For description, vide p. 136.]

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