Chapter II

Chapter II

* * * * *

THE WHITE NILE.

[_The reader who wishes to study in detail the whole question of the Nile Basin, its floods, discharges of rivers, schemes of irrigation, etc., etc., is referred to Sir William Garstin’s invaluable “Report on the Basin of the Upper Nile,” F.O. Bluebook, Egypt No._ 2 (1904). Price 17_s._]

(i.)—INTRODUCTORY.

[Sidenote: General.]

The White Nile and its tributaries form the life blood of the Sudan. The great river traverses it for 2,029 miles from south to north, receiving on its course through the country the Bahr El Ghazal, the Sobat, the Blue Nile, and the Atbara.

Of these four tributaries the Bahr El Ghazal joins the Nile out of the swamps from the west, whilst the other three join it from the east, bringing down the fertilizing matter from the Abyssinian hills.

[Sidenote: Flood.]

The rise of the Nile takes place during the summer, but the dates naturally vary largely at different points.

The causes of the flood are, briefly, as follows:—The rains in southern Abyssinia cause the Sobat to rise about the middle or end of April. The yellowish-white water caused by this flood reaches Kodok the last week in April. The equatorial rains cause the Bahr El Zeraf and White Nile, above the Sobat, to rise about the end of May. The effect of the first rise is felt at Halfa about the 20th May. The Blue Nile begins to rise about this time, and brings the red fertilizing flood down to Khartoum about the 20th June, and to Halfa about the middle of July. The muddy Atbara flood (June to August) rises very rapidly after the Blue Nile, and causes the flood to attain its maximum about the end of August; at this period the river is muddiest. The White Nile continues to rise slowly, and its effects (clear white water) are felt at Halfa till October, when it falls very slowly. The Blue Nile falls rapidly after the middle of September, and the Atbara has generally disappeared by October. The Sobat begins to fall at Nasser early in December.

The Bahr El Ghazal rivers rise slightly in May. These soon subside, and the main floods take place in July and August.

The above is a description of an average year. An early maximum (i.e., about the middle of August) generally means a low summer flood, and vice versâ. The flood at its height moves at about 100 miles a day (below the Atbara).[17]

The above dates vary largely in accordance with the time and amount of rainfall in the upper valleys of the rivers.

Of the flood water annually brought down by the rivers, about half now runs to waste into the Mediterranean sea. The Aswan dam regulates and utilizes this to a certain extent, but a large proportion remains over. This it is proposed to utilize in the future for irrigating the Sudan by means of flood and catchment basins; but the time is still distant when this surplus will be entirely devoted to this purpose.

[Sidenote: Historical.]

Up to comparatively recent times the sources of the Nile were involved in mystery.[18] In ancient days many guesses were hazarded at their origin, some geographers maintaining that the Nile rose in the Atlas Mountains of Marocco; others were positive that the Niger formed the upper portion of the great river. During the 17th and 18th centuries it was held that the sources were to be found in the “Mountains of the Moon.” These have since been speculatively identified with the Ruwenzori Mountains between Lakes Albert and Albert Edward, and, if this theory is correct, the ancient geographers were not so far out.

It was left for Speke and Grant, in 1862, on a journey from the east coast, to discover that the great lake, now known as the Victoria Nyanza, was the main source of the White Nile. Sir Samuel Baker, in March, 1863, working up stream, discovered the Albert Nyanza; but it was not till some time afterwards that the actual course of that portion of the river, now known as the Bahr El Jebel, was mapped and traversed, Lieutenants Watson and Chippendall, R.E., being the first, under Gordon in 1874, to lay down the actual course. During the ensuing years, this, the upper portion of the river, was several times blocked with sudd, and at the re-conquest of the Sudan from the Dervishes in 1898, it was permanently blocked. An expedition under Major Peake, however, succeeded in clearing a channel in 1899-1900, and there is no likelihood of the clear channel now existing being, except quite temporarily, blocked again.

The sources of the Blue Nile, which for long was considered as the main river, were, as early as 1770, discovered by Bruce to be near Lake Tsana (Abyssinia), but to this day the actual course of the Blue Nile between Lake Tsana and Famaka (Abyssinian-Sudan border) has never been accurately laid down.

The course of the Atbara, as far up as the junction with it of the Setit, was roughly known before 1864, when Sir S. Baker made a more thorough exploration of these rivers, but the courses of the Atbara and Setit lying within the Sudan have only recently been fairly accurately laid down. The Atbara rises in the Abyssinian hills, near Chelga, where it is known as the Goang.

The Sobat was explored by Marno and Junker in the “Seventies” as far as Nasser, where there was then an Egyptian post. It was left for British officers, after 1898, headed by Captain Gamble, to explore the various narrow rivers such as the Baro, Pibor, Akobo, etc., which join the main stream from South-West Abyssinia, east of Nasser. The course of the Upper Pibor was explored by Lieut. Comyn in September, 1904, vide p. 151.

The course of the comparatively short Bahr El Ghazal river, known to the slave-traders of old times, was laid down by Petherick, Gessi, etc., in 1864-78; but the courses of the western rivers which flow into it, such as the Bahr El Arab[19] or El Homr, have not yet been even roughly determined. Those of the more southerly affluents, such as the Suei or Jur, etc., though not yet accurately fixed, have been sketched in by Junker, Marchand, etc., and the British officers in the Bahr El Ghazal since 1900.

(ii.)—GENERAL DESCRIPTION (DOWN STREAM).

[Sidenote: Albert Nyanza to Khartoum, Bahr el Jebel.]

After leaving the Albert Nyanza, the White Nile (or as it is there called the Bahr El Jebel) flows for 110 miles in a deep broad arm, with scarcely any velocity or slope, past Wadelai and Dufile to Nimule, and then, after a short and troubled course, between high mountain ranges, tosses over the Fola Rapids in a channel only 50 yards broad. From here it continues in a torrent to about Rejaf. Here the river is 7 feet deep at low Nile and 15 feet at flood time, discharging between 18,000 to 60,000 cubic feet per second. The regulating effects of the great lakes are well felt here. It is here at its lowest in winter; begins to rise about 15th April, with a minimum about the end of August.

From Rejaf to Bor, 112 miles, the river is mainly in one channel with a rapid fall. From Bor to the junction with Lake No, 384 miles, the river meanders along in numerous marshy channels with a very gentle slope. The main channel always used is known as the Bahr El Jebel. In this reach are the dams of living vegetation, known as the “Sudd” (for description see Appendix B). On one stretch the true channel is still blocked with sudd, and a “false” channel, a little to the westwards, has to be used for about 20 miles.

[Sidenote: Lake No.]

At the junction of the Bahr El Ghazal and the Nile in north lat. 9° 29′ is Lake No, or Moghren El Buhur,[20] a shallow expanse of water surrounded on all sides by reedy marsh and varying in size according to season, but in summer probably about 60 square miles. It forms a reservoir for the sluggish streams that drain the extensive plateau forming the water-shed between the Nile and Congo. In summer the lake and its swampy surroundings act as an evaporating basin, and the loss of water is consequently considerable. The waters here also become polluted with decaying green vegetable matter.

The Bahr El Ghazal enters Lake No at its western extremity, and the Bahr El Jebel passes through its eastern end. The Bahr El Ghazal has a feeble discharge and has no effect at any time on the volume of the White Nile.

In the stretch between Lake No and the Sobat, 81 miles, the current is slow and the channel occasionally blocked by sudd.

[Sidenote: Sobat.]

During flood, the Sobat has a discharge nearly equal to that of the Bahr El Jebel above the junction. In the spring the discharge from the Sobat is feeble, and the river is then unnavigable. The soil brought down by the Sobat is light and friable.

[Sidenote: White Nile.]

At the Sobat confluence the river changes its name[21] and now becomes the Bahr El Abiad or White Nile.

From this point down to Omdurman, 530 miles, it receives no more perennial affluents, but several large khors join it on the east bank between Kodok and Renk—chief of which are Khor Adar and Khor Rau.

The White Nile flows sluggishly along with a low velocity and gentle slope; its course is generally straight and its section wide and shallow, banks low, supply very constant; the colour and limpidity of its water show very little change throughout the year, and the variations between the level of high and low supply are very small, being not more than 2 to 6 feet. The depth of the river in this stretch ranges from 15 feet at low Nile to 21 feet in flood. In parts, the channel in flood time is often of immense width.

The result of 94 measurements made in June, 1862, show the mean width of the river in flood to be 1,870 yards. In many places, however, the channel is more than 2 miles wide, and in its general appearance it resembles a lake rather than a river. Its banks, more particularly the western shore, are very low, and its waters in flood spread for several miles over them. Their average height is not more than 8 to 10 feet above low water level, and the maximum difference between high and low supply is not more than 6 feet.

The river is at its lowest by the beginning or middle of April; the rainfall in the south then causes a constant and gradual rise, but the flood does not reach its maximum before the beginning of September.

The velocity of the current when in full flood is not more than 2½ to 3 miles an hour, whilst in winter this is reduced to 1½ miles an hour. The water is of an olive green or yellowish brown tinge. It owes most of its colour to the creamy-white waters of the Sobat River, called by the Arabs the Bahr El Asfar, or Yellow River.

[Sidenote: Green water.]

An odd phenomenon, the source of which has not been satisfactorily explained, is the “green water,” which makes its appearance at Dueim about the middle of May. The colour is owing to the mass of minute algæ in the water, which subsequently putrify and stink, but the origin of the water has not been definitely traced. It is believed to come from the upper Sobat, or Bahr El Ghazal, and not from the Bahr El Jebel. This green water reaches Cairo towards the end of June.

[Sidenote: Junction of the Niles at Khartoum.]

At Omdurman, half Nile usually occurs about the middle of July, high Nile at end of August or beginning of September, lasting about a month; half Nile end of November, lowest Nile end of April. The Blue Nile is at its lowest in May, and highest about the end of August. The result of careful measurements during the last 3 years has been to prove that when the Blue Nile is in flood, and generally when its discharge exceeds 5,000 metres cube per second, its waters hold back those of the White Nile and, owing to the increased depth in this river, due to the rise in the water levels, the volume coming from the south floods the Sudd marshes right and left of the channel and thus reduces the discharge of the White Nile by about 50 per cent.

The average difference between low and high Nile here is 22 feet (17½ to 26 feet).

[Sidenote: Below Khartoum.]

The river below Khartoum flows steadily along till it reaches the 6th or Shabluka cataract (see p. 47). Below this it is not disturbed, except for the rapids of the so-called 5th or El Homar and Bagara cataracts, till it passes Abu Hamed and enters the 4th or Belal cataract some way below this point. This cataract, forming the most complicated and dangerous rapids on the Nile, is for ordinary purposes unnavigable (see p. 36). Below it there is an open stretch past Dongola to the 3rd or Hannek cataract, shortly followed by the Kajbar rapids (see p. 26). A rocky channel full of small islands and small rapids, increasing in size and importance as the river proceeds, is entered some 80 miles below Kajbar, and through the Batn El Hagar the river rumbles along till, after passing the 2nd or Amka cataract, it emerges past Halfa in a broad and steady stream which lasts till it arrives at the dam and 1st cataract (Shellal) of Aswan. From here onwards there are no further obstacles (except sand-banks and canals) till, viâ the Delta of Egypt, the Mediterranean Sea is gained.

(iii.)—RIVER DISCHARGES.

The following, taken from Sir W. Garstin’s Report above mentioned, gives a summary of results respecting discharges in the basin of the Upper Nile:—

1. THE VICTORIA NILE.

The discharge at the Ripon Falls varies between 500 and 650 metres cube per second with a range of 1·1 metres. Downstream of the Murchison Falls the range is probably 1 metre, and the maximum and minimum discharges 1,000 and 400 metres cube per second respectively. The increase in flood is due to the rainfall throughout the catchment area of the river between these two points, while the decrease during the low season is due to the Choga Lake, which undoubtedly has a regulating effect upon the supply issuing from Lake Victoria. Lastly, the volume which enters Lake Albert by this river is generally, in flood, greater than that which leaves it by the Bahr El Jebel.

2. THE BAHR EL JEBEL.

At Wadelai, the first discharge site, the range of the river is about 1·11 metres while the discharge varies from 550 to 950 metres cube per second. The increase brought in by the streams which feed this river between Lake Albert and Wadelai is compensated by the loss of water due to a portion of the discharge of the Victoria Nile passing south up the lake during the flood season.

At Lado, 381 kilometres, the range is 2·30 metres, and the discharge in summer averages from 600 to 700 metres cube per second. The maximum (generally attained in September) varies between 1,000 metres cube per second in a low flood, and 2,000 metres cube per second in a high one. This increase in the flood supply is due to the rainfall throughout the river valley, and to the volume added by the many important tributaries, such as the Asua, the Kit, etc., which feed the Bahr El Jebel between Wadelai and Lado.

At Bor, 559 kilometres, the loss of water in flood is some 50 per cent. of the amount passing Lado, and the discharge here can rarely, if ever, exceed 1,000 metres cube per second. This loss is due to the filling up of the entire river valley, which thus forms an immense basin or reservoir, and reduces the discharge passing to the north. This reservoir extends from Lado to the head of the Bahr El Zeraf, a distance of some 378 kilometres. As the river falls the water of this basin, with the exception of the large amount lost by evaporation, slowly filters back through the marshes into the river during the winter months, and thus maintains the constancy of supply.

Throughout the “Sudd” region the loss of water in the Bahr El Jebel, both in summer and in flood, is very considerable. By the time that Lake No (1,156 kilometres from Lake Albert, and 749 kilometres from Lado) is reached, 85 per cent. of the discharge at Lado has been lost in a high flood, and 70 per cent. in a low one. During the summer months the loss at this point varies between 50 and 60 per cent. Lastly, the discharge which enters the White Nile from the Bahr El Jebel is nearly constant at all seasons of the year, and never even in the highest flood exceeds 300 or 320 metres cube per second. The regulating effect of the great marshes is thus very apparent.

3. THE BAHR EL GHAZAL.

The discharge of this river, as a feeder of the White Nile, may be neglected entirely. Its summer volume entering Lake No varies from 20 to 30 metres cube per second, while its flood discharge is even less, equalling from 12 to 20 metres cube per second. None of this water enters the White Nile, merely increasing the flooded area of Lake No. It, however, helps to augment the reservoir area of the main stream.

4. THE BAHR EL ZERAF.

This branch of the Bahr El Jebel adds to the volume of the White Nile by an amount varying from 30 to 60 metres cube per second in summer, and from 80 to 160 metres cube per second when in flood. If, however, the Bahr El Jebel is closed by “Sudd” then the discharge of the Bahr El Zaraf increases, possibly to from 300 to 400 metres cube per second during the flood season.

5. THE SOBAT.

This river is the main supply of the White Nile during the period of flood. The first effects of its waters are felt in May and June, while, as it does not reach its maximum until October and November, the volume of the Blue Nile having then been largely reduced, it maintains the discharge passing Khartoum to a very considerable figure. In years of good flood the discharge of the Sobat varies from 900 to 1,000 metres cube per second. In the early months of the year its discharge shrinks to very low limits, its waters being held back by those of the White Nile. When in flood the reverse is the case. The volume of the Sobat being at that time more than double that of the White Nile causes a rise in the levels of the latter upstream of the junction and holds back its water as far as Lake No.

6. THE WHITE NILE.

The discharge of this river below the Bahr El Zeraf junction varies from 300 to 500 metres cube per second according to the season of the year and the nature of the flood. It is probable that the last figure is a maximum and is never surpassed.[22] At El Dueim, 637 kilometres below the Sobat junction, the summer supply varies between 350 and 500 metres cube per second. The minimum levels are generally attained in the month of April and the first half of May. The discharge, owing to the Sobat water, gradually increases until the Blue Nile flood exceeds the volume of 5,000 metres cube per second at Khartoum. As soon as this figure is passed the discharge of the White Nile is reduced by an amount varying from 30 to 60 per cent., and this holding back continues until the Blue Nile falls again below the figure above given. This reduction of the White Nile discharge takes place in the months of August and September. As soon as the Blue Nile discharge has fallen below 5,000 metres cube per second that of the White Nile rises very rapidly, attaining its maximum in the months of November and December, when as much as from 1,500 to 1,700 metres cube per second have been recorded. This increased discharge is, of course, partly due to the Sobat, but also to the draining off of the water which has been ponded up for so long a period. It seems safe to assume that the White Nile discharge at Khartoum never under any circumstances exceeds 1,800 cubic metres per second.

To sum up:—The White Nile is at its lowest from March to May. It rises in June, is checked again in August and September, and attains its maximum during the months of November and December. Its limits in a low year are from 300 to 1,500 metres cube per second, and in one of high flood from 400 or 500 to 1,700 metres cube per second.[23]

7. THE BLUE NILE.

The supply of this river is chiefly derived from the drainage of the basin through which it runs and from the large tributaries which enter it downstream of the point where it issues from the Abyssinian hills. The Tsana lake has but a small influence upon its supply at any period of the year. It is at its lowest in May, when its discharge at times shrinks to nothing. It begins to rise in June and attains its maximum about the end of August. Its discharge in a year of good flood is as much as 10,000 metres cube per second, and it seems probable that in a year of exceptional flood 12,000 metres cube may pass Khartoum. In September it falls very rapidly, and during the winter months rarely discharges more than from 200 to 400 metres cube per second. The Khartoum gauges prove that a higher reading is recorded for a given flood discharge when the river is falling than is the case when the river is rising. This is probably due to the filling of the valley between Khartoum and the Shabluka Pass.

8. THE ATBARA.

The first water from this river reaches the Nile in the last week of June, and the maximum is usually reached in the last days of August, or in the first week of September. The Atbara generally attains its maximum before the full flood from Khartoum has arrived at the junction of the two rivers. After the maximum has been reached, the fall of the Atbara is rapid, and by the end of the year the river reverts to its summer state of a series of pools. The maximum discharge of the Atbara, measured in 1903, was 3,088 metres cube per second, but this is probably surpassed in a year of very high flood.

9. THE NILE NORTH OF KHARTOUM.

The discharges of 1903 record a maximum of 10,500 metres cube per second in an average year. If to this be added the volume of the Atbara, a total of nearly 14,000 cubic metres per second is reached. As in 1903 the levels at both Halfa and at Cairo did not pass those of a very ordinary flood supply, it would seem probable that in very high flood a volume of quite 16,000 metres cube per second must pass Berber.

In conclusion it may be stated with confidence that the White Nile contributes practically nothing to the flood which reaches Egypt. This is entirely derived from the Blue Nile and from the Atbara. On the other hand, the supply passing Aswan during the spring and early summer is due, almost entirely, to the water of the great lakes brought down by the White Nile.

The following are the water-slopes of the two rivers, as worked out from the discharges:—

Bahr El Jebel—

At Wadelai 1/27000 dry season.

At Bor 1/12100 flood season.

At 830 kilometres from Lake Albert 1/22500 flood season.

At Hellet-el-Nuer 1/40000 flood season.

At „ „ 1/16500 dry season.

At Lake No 1/87500 flood season.

At „ 1/54000 dry season.

White Nile—

Above Sobat 1/20000 dry season.

At Dueim 1/100000 when Blue Nile has fallen and the While Nile is at its maximum.

At Dueim 1/50000 dry season.

Blue Nile

At Khartoum 1/11200 flood season.

(See also footnote on p. 111, giving a short table of comparative discharges.)

(iv.)—NAVIGABILITY (UP STREAM).

Between Halfa and Khartoum (880 miles) the river may be said to be navigable throughout at high Nile.

Details are given below as to the various cataracts to be encountered, but it may be broadly said that, although difficult, it is not impossible to get boats and steamers through in the time of the flood. At low Nile most, if not all, of the cataracts are unnavigable.

Before the Nile Expedition of 1884-85 steamers and boats were taken over the 2nd cataract. During the expedition both were taken over the 3rd cataract and intervening rapids, and boats (whalers) successfully surmounted the 4th cataract. In 1897 gunboats and other steamers were hauled over the latter place, and the rocks of the 5th and 6th cataracts have never, when there was enough water, offered serious resistance to the passage of boats or steamers.

From Khartoum to Gondokoro, practically 1,100 miles, the only obstacles to navigation at any time of the year are:—

1. The Abu Zeid Ford (occasionally only), and the Azalet or Dankul Rocks near Jebelein, vide p. 59.

2. Scarcity of fuel.

3. The sudd.

4. Sand-banks.

2. FUEL.—One of the great economic questions of the Sudan which would give rise to anxiety were not the Nile-Red Sea Railway already in course of construction is the future supply of fuel. Imported coal now costs £E.4 to £E.6 per ton, and petroleum £6 to £E.11·500 per ton at Khartoum. Though a bed of lignitic coal has been discovered at Dongola, no other coal, nor even lignite, has so far been located within our boundaries. Wood therefore, is and will for some time remain the chief source of fuel supply. The large demand which arose with the development of Khartoum has caused the destruction of forest belts along the White and Blue Niles to a considerable distance from Khartoum, and although the Forest Department has now control of the fellings, the enormous demand is making inroads into the forests from which subsequent fires preclude recovery.

Wood stations for steamers are established at different points along the banks, at distances usually sufficiently near to obviate steamers taking too heavy a load, but there is a long gap between Khor Attar wood station and Kanisa (about 380 miles), which necessitates steamers carrying a large amount of firewood to enable them to cross the sudd region. As there is a heavy tax on the forests at these wood stations, the fellings are getting farther and farther away from the bank, and tramways are necessary to work the more remote portions of the forest.

3. THE SUDD.—A full description of the formation of and methods of dealing with the sudd are given in Appendix B. The Nile was blocked by the sudd from 1870-4, 1878-81, in 1884, and from 1895 to 1900.

The Nile, before it flows into Lake No, appears to be a channel varying from 100 yards to a mile in width, but, from the masthead of a steamer, it would be seen that there is a sea of papyrus grass, bulrushes, and reeds on either side of this water channel, and that the real banks of the river are 4, 8, or even 12 miles distant on either side. Under all this vegetation is water, which is slowly making its way down to fill up the void caused by the absorption of the water by plants and sun. The matted vegetation which floats on the top of the water is so thick that it is possible to walk on it; and, were it not for this covering, the evaporation over such a vast area would greatly diminish the supply of water to Lower Egypt.

A considerable part of the Nuer tribe actually live on the floating mass of vegetation, fish and the stalks of a water-lily forming their only food. The surface of the water is covered by a dense tangled mass of papyrus, ambach, and other water plants, which in places grow to a height of from 15 to 30 feet.

At the rise and fall of the Nile, quantities of the grass get torn away and float down stream. If the season is unusually wet, the stream increases in bulk and rapidity, and innumerable large masses of the grass, hurried and packed by the wind, are sent floating down; these jamb in the channels and form the sudd blocks.

The channel of the river is very tortuous; at Lake No, for instance, where the Bahr El Ghazal flows into the Nile, there is a sharp turn to the east. If the water contributed simultaneously by the Bahr El Ghazal happens to be insignificant and incapable of sweeping away the floating masses, a block is the result at this point.

4. SANDBANKS.—They are not as a rule any considerable obstacle, but are, of course, more troublesome at low than at high Nile, and shift about every year.

Steamers with no encumbrances, and with fuel ready cut for them to pick up, take about 12 days up stream from Khartoum to Gondokoro, and about 8 days down stream. (Record journey in 1903: 11 days up and 7 down).

The navigation up to the mouth of the Sobat is at all times easy, the Abu Zeid Ford and occasional rocks and sandbanks forming the only difficulties. The deepest channels lie usually towards the east bank. From the Sobat to Gondokoro a perfect and recent knowledge of the route is required, in order not to deviate into any of the lateral branches which are frequently met with, and which, varying from year to year, are chiefly in evidence during and after the rainy season.

There are also many sandbanks on this stretch. Between Gondokoro and Rejaf the river is rather difficult when low on account of shifting sandbanks and islands. There are a few rocks, but not dangerous, except at one point.

Between Rejaf and Bedden there is the same difficulty of shifting sandbanks and sunken rocks, which are, however, isolated and few in number, and might be blasted away. The current here is about 1½ miles an hour. At Bedden there is a bad rapid necessitating a transhipment; but from there boats can go to Kiri.

From Kiri to Labore there are awkward rapids, but the river might be utilised to a great extent. The river continues of much the same character till the junction of the Asua, when the rapids become more serious, terminating in the Fola Rapids.

The last 15 miles before reaching Nimule are quite impassable to any steamers or boats.

From here on, the river is free of any obstacles up to Lake Albert.

Between Dufile and Lake Albert the Nile is very sluggish, and papyrus islands abound in it. Breadth of channel varies.

BOATS AND STEAMERS.

The usual Nile boats are the “Nugger” and “Gayassa,” varying in capacity from 5 to 400 ardebs. The latter solidly built, with high bows, and free board, and lateen-rigged, is the Egyptian boat, whilst the former, which is found from the 2nd cataract southward, is flat, with low free board, and is roughly though solidly built without ribs. Rafts, canoes, inflated waterskins and water-tight pots are also used for individual navigation. Further up stream “dugouts” and ambach canoes are seen. Of steamers there are 10 gunboats, 21 other steamers, and 6 launches on the river, mostly stern-wheel; a few are screw, and one or two paddle. (Vide Chap. X, Part I.)

LANDING PLACES.

From Halfa to Khartoum and from Khartoum up to Goz Abu Guma it is possible to land almost anywhere on either bank. From there up to Kodok, owing to the broad reed fringe on either bank, landing is difficult except at the following places, viz.:—Jebelein, Um Ashrin, Karshawal, Renk, Meshra Leungtom or Domaia, Meshra Zeraf, Meshra Rom, Kaka, Kaka Wood Station, Melut and Demtemma. All these, except Kaka and Um Ashrin, are on the right bank.

As Gordon states, in the stretch between Kodok and 100 miles north of it, “People do land, but it is over your knees in the rainy season,” and even if a landing is effected, progress inland is always liable to be arrested by wide and deep khors which are really branches or overspills from the main stream: these obstacles are encountered even in the dry season.

There are easy landing places in many spots between Kodok and Lake No, then nothing except Hellet Nuer, Shambe, Abu Kuka, and Kanisa for 360 miles till Bor; south of Bor the best known ones are at Kiro, Lado, Mongalla, Gondokoro and Rejaf, though elsewhere a landing can generally be effected, especially on the left bank of the western channel, which leaves the main river near N. Lat. 5° 30′. Above Rejaf one can land anywhere up to the Fola Rapids. Between Dufile and Magunga (on Lake Albert) there are five landing places.

(v.)—CLIMATE.

The rains on the Upper Nile in the equatorial regions from the Albert Nyanza to the Bahr El Ghazal last from February or March to October or the middle of November.

As one proceeds northwards the heavy rains come later; the “Kherif,” or rainy season, in the neighbourhood of Kodok, lasts, as a rule, from the middle of May to the end of October, whilst at Khartoum it may be said to be during July, August, and September. At Halfa there is no rainy season.

At Gondokoro the hot weather commences middle of November and lasts till the end of March.

Colonel Stewart states (1883):—“The rains are very heavy, lasting 10 to 12 hours at a time. From Gondokoro south to the Equator, rainy seasons increase in length, till on the Equator it may be said that rain and sunshine succeed each other in rapid succession all the year round.”

Heavy thunderstorms and rains occur at intervals during the rest of the year, especially from October to January in the hilly regions round Rejaf and the Sudd district to the north of it.

WINDS.

During late autumn winds are very variable, blowing from all points of the compass. East and south-east winds at this period predominate, especially in the upper reaches. During the rest of the year the north wind, varying from north-west to north-east, is fairly constant, except during the summer rains, when the wind shifts to the south and south-east.

TEMPERATURE.

The average maximum and minimum shade temperatures on the Upper Nile during the hot months are 99° and 85° respectively, and during the rest of the year 88° and 74°. Between Khartoum and Halfa the maximum average is a good deal higher, and the minimum rather lower.

In the Sudd region and south the maximum averages about 85°, but, owing to the dampness of the district, from April to December fevers are rife, and the heat and mosquitos are difficult to bear with equanimity.

(vi.)—DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE NILE FROM THE NORTHERN BOUNDARY OF THE SUDAN TO GONDOKORO.

SECTION 1.—HALFA TO MEROWE.

The northern boundary of the Sudan (and of the Halfa Province), though nominally the 22nd parallel of north latitude, begins for administrative purposes on the Nile at Faras Island, 12 miles north of the point where that parallel crosses the river and 20 miles north of Halfa. Opposite Halfa the river is some 900 yards broad, and is navigable up to the foot of the 2nd cataract, 26½ miles up stream.

Beyond the 2nd cataract the river runs through the broken rocky country of Batn El Hagar, and is full of rocks and rapids which require careful steering, even for small boats at high Nile, up to the Amara rapid. Beyond this the river is fairly easy till the 3rd or Kajbar Cataract is approached. At this point the Nile again works its way through broken hilly ground covered with boulders, and from thence it is plain boating, except for sandbanks, till Merowe.

A road, or rather a fair camel track—total 228 miles from Halfa to opposite Dongola—runs along the right bank of the river, taking short cuts across bends (notably for 35 miles across the desert between Kosha and Abu Sari) all the way, but has naturally been considerably superseded by the railway. On the left bank there is also a through camel track, but it keeps further from the river and is less used than that on the other bank. (For detail, vide I.D.W.O. map No. 1489, sheets Wadi Halfa, Kosha, Dongola, Debba, and Merowe.)

The railway (3 feet 6 inches gauge) extending from Halfa to Kerma (203 miles) was started in Ismail Pasha’s time (1877), carried on nearly to Akasha in 1884-5, almost entirely destroyed by the Dervishes (1885-96) and rebuilt to provide means of transport for the Dongola Expedition in 1896. Of necessity it was rapidly and lightly laid, and it is now (1904) in a bad state of repair. Owing to the great cost which would be involved in its complete repair, it is to be abandoned (see Chapter X, Section 1).

(For administrative and economical details of the Halfa and Dongola Provinces, vide Chapters III and IX.)

N.B.—In the river table, in order to avoid fractions, as a rule only the nearest mile or kilometre is given. Kilometres, where given, are in italics: 5 miles = 8 kilometres.

[Kms.: Kilometres. I.: Intermediate. F.H.C.: From Halfa Camp.]

----------+----------+---------------+----------------+--------------- | Miles. | | | Place. | Kms. | Left Bank. | River and | Right Bank. +---+------+ | general. | | I.|F.H.C.| | | ----------+---+------+---------------+----------------+--------------- Ginnis | 2| 115 | |At actual high |The action of | |185 | |Nile the river |Ginnis of | | | |is navigable |30.12.1885 was | | | |without |fought on the | | | |difficulty from |slopes to the | | | |Kosha to Dongola|west of the | | | |and above; but a|village. Bank | | | |fortnight later |mostly low and | | | |it will be |even. Palm | | | |impossible to |trees; more | | | |pass the Kaibar |cultivation. | | | |and Hannek | | | | |cataracts, | | | | |except in small | | | | |boats | | | | | | Amara | 3| 118 |Desert sand |Insignificant | Rapid | | |comes right |except at low | | | |down to river |Nile; caused by | | | | |ridge of broken | | | | |rocks crossing | | | | |river bed. | | | | | | Arneti | 5| 123 | |Island 3 miles | | | | |long, lying in | | | | |curve, which | | | | |river here makes| | | | |to the south. | | | | | | Sagiet El | 4| 127 |Desert road | | Abd | | |arrives from | | | | |N.E. across | | | | |curve. Here a | | | | |desert road | | | | |strikes west to| | | | |Selima (75 | | | | |miles) and the | | | | |Arbain road. | | | | | | | Yabri and | 3| 130 | |North end of Sai| Sai Island| | | |Island. West | | | | |channel | | | | |unsurveyed, keep| | | | |in east channel.| | | | | | Koyeka | 5| 135 |Open desert, | |Koyeka | |217 |almost flat for| |district; tomb | | |many miles | |of Sheikh | | | | |Idris. Ground | | | | |gradually rises | | | | |to E. | | | | | Jebel Abud| 5| 140 | |South end of Sai|Abud district. | | | |Island |Jebel Abud | | | | |1,598 feet, 4 | | | | |miles inland. | | | | | Suarda | 2| 142 | | |Capture here of | |228 | | |Dervish stores | | | | |by Cavalry | | | | |after Firket. | | | | |Rich district. | | | | | Gurjan Tau| 14| 156 |Ancient temple.| | | | | | | Koya | 8| 164 |Desert road |Channel here | | |264 |leads due south|turns sharp to | | | |28 miles (no |the east and | | | |water) to |after 10 miles | | | |rejoin the Nile|curves S.E. | | | |at Fakir Benti.| | | | |Proposed route | | | | |for railway, | | | | |1871 | | | | | | | Abu Sari | 15| 179 | |Islands become |Desert road | |288 | |more frequent, |from Kosha (36 | | | |and the channel |miles without | | | |turns again |water, | | | |definitely to |excellent | | | |the south |going), reaches | | | | |river here. | | | | | Dalgo | 12| 191 | | |Large and | |307 | | |important | | | | |district. | | | | |Railway here | | | | |rejoins river | | | | |from Kosha. Hd. | | | | |Qrs. of the | | | | |Mahas District | | | | | Kaibar | 12| 203 |Banks even and |Thick (450 |Banks low. Palm Cataract | |325 |low, but rocky |yards) low ridge|trees. The (Kajbar, | | | |of black granite|railway here Kagbar) | | | |here crosses the|crosses the | | | |river, 1,200 |river and takes | | | |yards wide here.|a short cut to | | | |Difficult even |Kerma. | | | |for small boats | | | | |at low Nile; it | | | | |presents | | | | |practically no | | | | |difficulty at | | | | |high Nile | | | | | | | 4| 207 | |Channel bends |Desert road | | | |sharp to west |cuts across | | | | |S.W. to Abu | | | | |Fatma (18 | | | | |miles). | | | | | Arduan | 5| 212 | |Arduan Island. | | | | |Rocky. 9 miles | | | | |by 4. South | | | | |channel narrow | | | | |and unnavigable.| | | | |Keep to left | | | | |bank. | | | | | | Fakr Benti| 10| 222 |Fakr Benti |River winds | | | | |through broken, | | | | |rocky country. | | | | | | Jebel | 6| 228 |Jebel Alibersi,| |Jebel Sadek, Alibersi | | |overlooking | |1,220 feet, 3 and Jebel | | |river | |miles inland. Sadek | | | | | | | | | | Shaban | 1| 229 |Banks low and |Four miles of |Bank broken by Rapids and| |368 |generally even |broken water; |low ridges of 3rd or | | |and cultivated |keep to east |boulder Hannek | | | |channel except |granite. Cataract | | | |during highest | | | | |Nile. 7 to 9 | | | | |different | | | | |rapids, the one | | | | |at the foot | | | | |being the worst.| | | | |Not serious at | | | | |high Nile. Fall,| | | | |18 feet | | | | |altogether. The | | | | |numerous islands| | | | |are fertile. | | | | | | Hannek | 2| 231 |Village. | | | | | | | Simit | 2| 233 | |Large island, 3 | Island | | | |by 1½ miles. | | | | |Keep to west | | | | |channel. | | | | | | Badin | 8| 241 |Country becomes|Island 6 miles | Island | | |much flatter |by 1. Keep to | | | | |east channel. | | | | | | Abu Fatma | 2| 243 | | |Rocky and | |391 | | |enclosed. The | | | | |desert road | | | | |which left the | | | | |river at mile | | | | |207 here | | | | |rejoins it. | | | | |British | | | | |Garrison here | | | | |1885. Boundary | | | | |between Halfa | | | | |and Dongola | | | | |Provinces. | | | | | Kerma | 3| 246 | |The Nile between|Terminus of the (Rest | |396 | |here and Dongola|railway. house) | | | |becomes |Transport to | | | |unnavigable for |Dongola is | | | |steamers from |continued by | | | |March to June. |land at low | | | |There is at |Nile, and by | | | |other times a |steamer at high | | | |fortnightly |Nile. P.T.O. | | | |postal steamer |Chief market | | | |between Kerma |day Weds. | | | |and Merowe; this| | | | |runs all the | | | | |year round from | | | | |Dongola to | | | | |Merowe | | | | | | Hafir | 2| 248 |British camp | |Village of (Rest | | |here Summer, | |Kerma. house) | | |1885. Action | | | | |here 20.9.1896.| | | | |Egyptian Army | | | | |crossed from | | | | |right to left | | | | |bank. Market on| | | | |Saturdays | | | | | | | Argo | 4| 252 | |North end of |There are 8 or Island | |405 | |Argo Island, |10 small (Rest | | | |perhaps the |villages on E. house) | | | |richest soil in |bank behind | | | |the Sudan. |Argo Island; | | | |Thickly |cultivation | | | |populated and |carried on | | | |highly |chiefly for the | | | |cultivated. The |“Demera” crop. | | | |head man is | | | | |called the Melik| | | | |(King) of Argo. | | | | |The east channel| | | | |is narrow and | | | | |navigable for 3 | | | | |months only. | | | | |Numerous fertile| | | | |islands in west | | | | |channel. Hd. | | | | |Qrs. of a | | | | |District | | | | | | Zawerat | 19| 271 |Highly |South end of | | | |cultivated |Argo. | | | | | | | | |Chief ferry | | | | |between W. Bank| | | | |and S. end of | | | | |Island, where | | | | |boats can | | | | |always be found| | | | | | | Dongola | 9| 280 |Better known to|Numerous | (Rest | |450 |the natives as |sandbanks, | house) | | |El Ordi. Lies 2|sometimes | | | |miles to the |causing | | | |north of the |difficulty in | | | |older pre- |landing. A large| | | |mahdist town. |island now lies | | | |Former capital |opposite the | | | |of the |town. | | | |Province. | | | | |British |Between | | | |garrison there |Dongola and the | | | |Mar.-July, |foot of the 4th | | | |1885. 1,000 |cataract the | | | |inhabitants. |river runs | | | |Post and |through a plain.| | | |telegraph |Banks low almost| | | |office, |throughout; no | | | |residence of a |obstacles to | | | |British |navigation | | | |inspector, and |except sand | | | |Headquarters of|banks at low and| | | |District and |half Nile. From | | | |residence of |Dongola to | | | |Mamur. The old |Ambugol there is| | | |forts and |a broad strip of| | | |earthworks |cultivation on | | | |built by |one or other | | | |Mustafa Pasha |bank, rarely on | | | |Yawar are still|both at the same| | | |to be seen |time. From | | | |stretching |Ambugol the | | | |round the town |cultivated land | | | | |gradually | | | |Govt. Mosque, |increases in | | | |about 60 |extent; both | | | |permanent shops|banks are | | | |and 3 or 4 |cultivated, and | | | |flour mills |the Dar Shaigia | | | | |is richer and | | | | |better | | | | |cultivated than | | | | |any district | | | | |south of the | | | | |Fayum; the | | | | |vegetation here | | | | |is quite | | | | |tropical in | | | | |character, and | | | | |all the islands | | | | |are cultivated. | | | | |Between Belal | | | | |and Abu Hamed | | | | |there is little | | | | |cultivation, | | | | |except in the | | | | |Monasir (El | | | | |Salamat) | | | | |country. There | | | | |are numerous | | | | |villages on | | | | |either bank, and| | | | |the mud houses | | | | |are all | | | | |whitewashed and | | | | |of a better | | | | |class than those| | | | |below Dongola, | | | | |generally a | | | | |short distance | | | | |behind the | | | | |cultivated | | | | |strip. The | | | | |weather is | | | | |variable in | | | | |October; before | | | | |reaching Debba | | | | |the north wind | | | | |is sometimes | | | | |lost. Debba to | | | | |Abu Hamed is a | | | | |warmer district | | | | |than the country| | | | |below and above | | | | |these places. | | | | |Prevailing winds| | | | |from the north; | | | | |native boats | | | | |have to be towed| | | | |between the two | | | | |places named. | | | | |The banks | | | | |themselves are | | | | |good for towing,| | | | |but difficulties| | | | |arise as the | | | | |river falls. The| | | | |most serious | | | | |obstacles are | | | | |the Sagias, | | | | |which in some | | | | |cases are only | | | | |50 to 100 yards | | | | |apart. | | | | | | Irtidi | 1| 281 |Village. Good |From Dongola to | | | |road alongside |Debba the river | | | |river and |is shallow, but | | | |telegraph line |clear of any | | | | |serious | | | | |obstructions all| | | | |the year round. | | | | |A few isolated | | | | |rocks appear at | | | | |low Nile. | | | | | | Khannag | 2| 283 |Village. | | | | | | | Sheikh | 1| 284 |Small village, | |The east bank Sherif | | |¾ of a mile | |is desert sand, | | |from river. | |and almost | | |Intervening | |entirely | | |space highly | |uncultivated. | | |cultivated. The| | | | |road from | | | | |Dongola runs | | | | |over alluvial | | | | |soil at some | | | | |distance from | | | | |the river, on | | | | |the outskirts | | | | |of the | | | | |cultivation | | | | | | | Kajatti | 5| 289 |Name | | | | |disappearing. | | | | |Large tomb east| | | | |of road. Few | | | | |scattered huts.| | | | | | | Ordi El | 1| 290 |Ruined village;|Name | Monfok | | |good grazing |disappearing. | | | | | | Kasr Wad | 1| 291 |A stone ruin on|Islands of | Nimiri | | |a mound |Lebab, Ab Turki,| | | |overlooking the|and Derer. Lebab| | | |river. The |Island is also | | | |gravel ridge, |spoken of as | | | |which has |“Geziret | | | |skirted the |Ashraf,” and was| | | |road all the |the birthplace | | | |way, here comes|of the Mahdi. | | | |down to the | | | | |river. From the| | | | |last station | | | | |the river banks| | | | |are lined with | | | | |palms and the | | | | |ground covered | | | | |with coarse | | | | |grass | | | | | | | Sahaba | 5| 296 |Rocky ridge | | | | |widens out; | | | | |good camping | | | | |ground; | | | | |gradually | | | | |coming under | | | | |cultivation. | | | | | | | Akri | 4| 300 |Stone village. | | | | | | | Teit, | 1| 301 |A stone village| | Taetti | |483 |over a mile in | | | | |length, | | | | |situated a ¼ of| | | | |a mile from the| | | | |river. Between | | | | |it and the | | | | |river is a | | | | |narrow strip of| | | | |cultivation. | | | | |The best | | | | |camping ground | | | | |is to the south| | | | |of the village.| | | | | | | Saati | 3| 304 |Domed tomb. | | Beshir | | |Hills within | | | | |500 yards of | | | | |river. | | | | | | | Urbi | 5| 309 |A large village|Island of same | | | |built where the|name opposite | | | |hills leave the|village very | | | |river, leaving |highly | | | |a good open |cultivated. | | | |space for | | | | |camping | | | | | | | Sori | 4| 313 |A long | | | | |scattered | | | | |village on the | | | | |river bank. A | | | | |strip of | | | | |cultivation | | | | |runs along the | | | | |river; there | | | | |is, however, a | | | | |break in it | | | | |just north of | | | | |the large tomb.| | | | |This is a | | | | |suitable place | | | | |for a camp. | | | | | | | Sali | 4| 317 |The hills, | |Malwad opposite | | |which had | |south end of | | |widened out | |Sali. | | |opposite Sori, | | | | |here come | | | | |nearly down to | | | | |the river, | | | | |leaving room | | | | |for a shallow | | | | |camp. A small | | | | |scattered | | | | |village with | | | | |strip of | | | | |cultivation. | | | | |The road from | | | | |Urbi to this | | | | |place runs over| | | | |a sandy plain | | | | |with scattered | | | | |mimosa | | | | | | | Khandak | 3| 320 |Headquarters of| | (Rest | | |District, and | | house) | | |residence of | | | | |Mamur. Built on| | | | |a stony mound | | | | |overlooking the| | | | |river. Eight | | | | |and a half | | | | |hours’ steaming| | | | |from Dongola | | | | |(October). The | | | | |town could be | | | | |easily defended| | | | |against a force| | | | |coming down | | | | |river or across| | | | |the desert from| | | | |the west. | | | | |Broken mud wall| | | | |on west and | | | | |north sides. | | | | |Old sun-dried | | | | |brick fort in | | | | |middle of town | | | | |on the bank; | | | | |good storage, | | | | |accommodation | | | | |for 200 men | | | | |(British); | | | | |commands town | | | | |and approaches.| | | | |Also 4 well- | | | | |built brick | | | | |houses in the | | | | |town, capable | | | | |of housing 300 | | | | |men. Town of | | | | |mud huts clean | | | | |and well built.| | | | |Market day on | | | | |Saturday. Four | | | | |hundred and | | | | |forty sagias in| | | | |the district, | | | | |each | | | | |representing 4 | | | | |families. Much | | | | |wood in the | | | | |district. Road | | | | |west into | | | | |desert to | | | | |Marghum, etc. | | | | |Remains of many| | | | |churches | | | | | | | Shebatut, | 1| 321 |About 20 | | or | | |houses, 400 | | Shabadud | | |yards from | | | | |river, at foot | | | | |of low hills. | | | | |Cultivation on | | | | |banks 200 yards| | | | |wide. Good | | | | |space between | | | | |cultivation and| | | | |village. Best | | | | |camping ground | | | | |at south end of| | | | |village. This | | | | |spot was | | | | |extensively | | | | |used as a | | | | |camping ground | | | | |during the Nile| | | | |Expedition. | | | | |Light Camel | | | | |Regiment here, | | | | |Spring of 1885 | | | | | | | Dambo | 2| 323 |Fifteen houses | | | | |½ mile from the| | | | |river; no | | | | |cultivation. | | | | |Good camping | | | | |ground east of | | | | |village; mimosa| | | | |scrub. Banks | | | | |shelving; | | | | |compact | | | | |village, 40 | | | | |houses; good | | | | |landing; | | | | |numerous palms | | | | |and acacias | | | | | | | Goled |6 2| 329 |Three groups of|Komi Island |East bank Bahri and | | 331 |huts extending |(cultivated) |gradually Gibli | | |over 1 mile, ¾ | |becomes more | | |mile from | |inhabited and | | |river. Situated| |cultivated. | | |in broad | | | | |alluvial plain,| | | | |running down to| | | | |river. Monday | | | | |market; mass of| | | | |cultivation; 2¾| | | | |hours’ steam | | | | |from Khandak; | | | | |considerable | | | | |supply of wood,| | | | |the mimosa | | | | |trees growing | | | | |to a great | | | | |height. On | | | | |leaving El | | | | |Goled, the road| | | | |runs at some | | | | |distance from | | | | |the river | | | | |across a rich | | | | |alluvial plain | | | | |(cultivated) | | | | | | | Wad Abbas | 3| 334 | |Nani Island |Desert road | | | | |leads east from | | | | |Wad Abbas to | | | | |near Merowe. | | | | |(76 miles.) | | | | | Rumi | 2| 336 |Villages Bahri |Rumi Island 2 |Stone ruins 2 | | |and Gibli |miles on |miles inland to | | | | |north-east. | | | | | Bakri | 4| 340 |On nearing this| | | | |place the | | | | |ground becomes | | | | |more sandy and | | | | |covered with | | | | |mimosa scrub. | | | | |It extends for | | | | |over 1 mile, | | | | |amidst palms | | | | |and | | | | |cultivation. | | | | |All supplies | | | | |plentiful. Good| | | | |camping ground | | | | |to south. | | | | |Saturday | | | | |market. | | | | | | | El | 4| 344 |From Bakri to | |Commencement of Khelaiun, | | |this spot | |highly or | | |(which consists| |cultivated Kheleiwa | | |only of a poor | |Latti district, | | |hut or two) the| |3 to 4 miles | | |river banks | |broad, with | | |have been lined| |numerous | | |with coarse | |villages, | | |grass, outside | |e.g., | | |of which is a | |Amentogo, Arab | | |strip of sand | |Hag, Kodokol, | | |dunes and | |and Megabda. | | |mimosa, with | |Quantities of | | |the road | |date palms and | | |outside this. | |wood. | | |Cultivation | | | | |here takes the | | | | |place of the | | | | |grass. Sand | | | | |dunes still | | | | |continue. Site | | | | |of old | | | | |Christian | | | | |church. Stones | | | | |with Greek | | | | |inscriptions | | | | |found | | | | | | | Kankalab | 1| 345 |Village of 30 |River shallow. |District | | |tukls, on a |Former site of |narrows down as | | |high bank |Ghaddar Island |hills approach | | |overlooking a | |river from | | |broad strip of | |north-east to | | |cultivation, | |Ghaddar, etc. | | |which | | | | |intervenes | | | | |between it and | | | | |the river. Good| | | | |camping ground | | | | |1 mile south | | | | | | | Old | 6| 351 |Dongola Gharbi.|Baja Island |Old Dongola, on Dongola, | |564 |Well | |the right bank, locally | | |cultivated, | |is a deserted pronounced| | |many trees; | |town of ruined “Tóngălo” | | |shelving banks | |mud houses, | | |and good | |containing not | | |landing. A | |more than 30 | | |long, scattered| |able-bodied | | |village, | |men. The people | | |separated from | |live in the | | |the river by a | |island of | | |broad strip of | |Hamur, a little | | |cultivation. | |higher up | | |Between the | |stream, and in | | |village and the| |the cultivated | | |desert is a | |districts on | | |tract covered | |the west bank; | | |with mimosa and| |much wood in | | |“dead sea | |surrounding | | |fruit.” Fairly | |country; 422 | | |well wooded. | |sagias. It is | | |Wednesday | |built on a | | |market | |rocky height, | | | | |overlooking the | | | | |river and the | | | | |desert to the | | | | |east. It is | | | | |capable of easy | | | | |defence, and | | | | |might be held | | | | |by a very small | | | | |force. In rear | | | | |of the town are | | | | |the ruins of a | | | | |once strong | | | | |fort. Severe | | | | |sand storms are | | | | |frequent. There | | | | |is one mosque | | | | |built over an | | | | |old Christian | | | | |church | | | | |commanding the | | | | |river, village, | | | | |and surrounding | | | | |country. | | | | |Cliffs, old | | | | |sandstone, | | | | |30-70 feet | | | | |high. | | | | | El Ghaba | 4| 355 |A small village|Tangussi Island,|Fertile stretch | | |with a clump of|very fertile; 8 |opposite | | |trees. There is|miles long. |Tangussi. | | |a break in the |Narrow east | | | |cultivation |channel | | | |here, and space| | | | |on the river | | | | |for good | | | | |camping ground.| | | | |Markets | | | | |Tuesdays and | | | | |Fridays | | | | | | | Abu Gussi | 1| 356 |Was an |Good landing | | | |important |west bank. On | | | |village, with |leaving Abu | | | |road striking |Gussi, the river| | | |south-west to |changes its | | | |Omdurman and El|course to nearly| | | |Fasher. British|east and west. | | | |Garrison, 1885.|The left bank to| | | |Now deserted; |Debba is highly | | | |river eating |cultivated, and | | | |away banks and |a little | | | |cultivation |vegetation is | | | | |visible on the | | | | |right bank. | | | | | | Giref | 4| 360 |The country | | | | |between Abu | | | | |Gussi and Debba| | | | |is hard, sandy | | | | |going, with low| | | | |hills on the | | | | |right hand, and| | | | |broad patches | | | | |of cultivation | | | | |on the left. A | | | | |desert road to | | | | |Mahtul, 40 | | | | |miles, here | | | | |leaves the | | | | |river. | | | | | | | Karad or | 9| 369 |Just north of |Argi Island |Argi district, Kurot | | |Debba; 45 | |cultivated. | | |sagias; steep | | | | |banks. Good | | | | |landing for all| | | | |boats. General | | | | |Brackenbury’s | | | | |brigade was | | | | |quartered here | | | | |during the | | | | |spring of 1885 | | | | | | | Debba | 2| 371 |Consists of old|River here 750 |Right bank bare (Rest | |596 |field works of |yards wide; |as a rule, with house) | | |430 yards |course south- |cultivated | | |perimeter, |east and north- |patches at | | |enclosing a few|west. Various |intervals. | | |huts. Was |cultivated |Ruined castle | | |garrisoned in |islands such as |at Abkor (380). | | |1884 by 250 |Gira (373), | | | |Bashi Buzuks. |Tambanarti | | | |Headquarters of|(382), Ganeti | | | |the District, |(391, keep to | | | |and residence |north bank), | | | |of Mamur. |Jigarnarti | | | |Wheat, barley, |(397), and | | | |dura and wood |Husseinarti | | | |procurable from|(404), dot the | | | |neighbouring |river hereabouts| | | |cultivated | | | | |districts. A | | | | |direct road to | | | | |Omdurman starts| | | | |from here viâ | | | | |Abu Gerad. The | | | | |position is | | | | |excellent, the | | | | |fort being | | | | |surrounded on | | | | |the south by an| | | | |open sandy | | | | |plain, covered | | | | |by slight bush,| | | | |and abutting on| | | | |the river on | | | | |the north, | | | | |where there is | | | | |a good landing | | | | |place, steamers| | | | |and heavily | | | | |laden boats | | | | |being able to | | | | |come close | | | | |alongside. | | | | |Cultivation | | | | |along the banks| | | | |of the river | | | | |recommences | | | | |about a mile | | | | |distant, east | | | | |and west of the| | | | |fort. The Wadi | | | | |Melh, a dry | | | | |shallow valley,| | | | |debouches on to| | | | |the plain, | | | | |where its | | | | |course is lost | | | | |in the sand. By| | | | |following up | | | | |the course of | | | | |this valley, | | | | |the old and now| | | | |little used | | | | |Kordofan | | | | |caravan road is| | | | |joined, leading| | | | |to Bir Mahtul | | | | |and El Obeid. A| | | | |commercial | | | | |centre | | | | |(formerly) for | | | | |ivory and gum | | | | |from, and for | | | | |European | | | | |merchandise for| | | | |Kordofan and | | | | |Darfur. | | | | |Geological | | | | |formation, | | | | |Nubian | | | | |sandstone, | | | | |acted on by | | | | |heat, and | | | | |metamorphosed | | | | |on the surface.| | | | |Petrified wood | | | | |is found in | | | | |great | | | | |quantities | | | | | | | Abu Dom | 16| 387 |The road passes|River channel |East bank | |623 |over sand and |now curves, and |becomes more | | |some slight |runs south-west |cultivated. | | |sandhills while|and north-east. |Districts of | | |passing Abu |Easy navigation |Affat, Abseit, | | |Dom. An |to foot of 4th |Nizezi, Neriko | | |important |Cataract. |and Difar. Rest | | |village of | |house at Affat. | | |about 300 men; | | | | |the houses are | | | | |scattered along| | | | |the edge of the| | | | |sand; there are| | | | |30 water-wheels| | | | |and a few | | | | |palms. | | | | |Cultivation: | | | | |dura, wheat, | | | | |Indian corn. | | | | |Market on | | | | |Wednesdays. The| | | | |most southerly | | | | |point on the | | | | |river before | | | | |reaching | | | | |Berber. A more | | | | |northerly | | | | |course is then | | | | |taken. The left| | | | |bank continues | | | | |most rich in | | | | |cultivation; | | | | |wood abounds. | | | | |Next districts | | | | |in order: Abu | | | | |Kleiwat, Jura | | | | |(with ruins of | | | | |Coptic church, | | | | |road makes | | | | |short cut to | | | | |east), | | | | |Artimoga, | | | | |Fakrin Koti, | | | | |Mansur Koti | | | | | | | Hetani or | 16| 403 |Rocky Hill | | Tani | | |Jebel Taraka 1 | | | | |mile to south; | | | | |outlying spurs | | | | |from J. El Nob | | | | |5 miles to | | | | |south. Old | | | | |castle (Galat | | | | |Hatani) 1 mile | | | | |on, in ruins, | | | | |with rock well.| | | | |Narrow road, | | | | |camels single | | | | |file, was held | | | | |by Emir Heddai | | | | |against Mudir | | | | |of Dongola, in | | | | |1884 | | | | | | | — | 6| 409 |Camp of General| |Kori and Takar | | |Dormer’s | |districts. Bank | | |Brigade, 1885. | |fairly | | |Bush gets | |cultivated. | | |thinner, road | |Districts El | | |descends to— | |Bar, El Barsa, | | | | |Karafab (420). | | | | | Ambugol | 4| 413 |Large village, | |El Arag, | |665 |standing ½ mile| |Hajeir, Magal, | | |back. Open | |Bakhit, with | | |country around.| |hill and ruins | | |Branch road to | |(431). Low | | |Korti. Metemma | |rocky hills in | | |road starts | |distance. | | |from here. | | | | |Friday market. | | | | |The river bank | | | | |from here to | | | | |Merowe is well | | | | |wooded | | | | |throughout, and| | | | |the road during| | | | |the whole | | | | |distance runs | | | | |over a sandy | | | | |plain sparsely | | | | |covered with | | | | |mimosa scrub | | | | | | | Gowari | 2| 415 |A compact | | | | |village of many| | | | |houses. The | | | | |road from | | | | |Ambugol runs | | | | |over an | | | | |alluvial plain | | | | |sparsely | | | | |covered with | | | | |mimosa scrub. | | | | |No cultivation | | | | |along the river| | | | |banks, and the | | | | |ground is | | | | |everywhere | | | | |favourable for | | | | |camping. A few | | | | |palms to the | | | | |south of the | | | | |village. | | | | | | | Korti[24] | 1| 416 |Two villages: | | (Rest | |670 |one on the | | house) | | |river, and one | | | | |1 mile inland. | | | | |Palms, mimosa, | | | | |and cultivation| | | | |along the | | | | |river. A low | | | | |sand ridge runs| | | | |parallel to the| | | | |river, at a | | | | |distance of 1 | | | | |mile from it. | | | | |Sunday market. | | | | |Steep banks, 15| | | | |feet high. | | | | |Advanced base | | | | |of Nile | | | | |Expedition, | | | | |1884-5. River | | | | |banks now | | | | |mostly | | | | |cultivated, | | | | |including thick| | | | |mimosa scrub in| | | | |parts. Road to | | | | |Jakdul and | | | | |Metemma starts | | | | |from here. The | | | | |W. Mogaddam | | | | |joins the Nile | | | | |here. | | | | |Headquarters of| | | | |Mamuria. | | | | | | | Ghoreiba | 3| 419 |Fifty well- | | | | |built houses. | | | | |No cultivation | | | | |between here | | | | |and El Basa, 3 | | | | |miles on. | | | | |Passing Usli | | | | |(426) arrive | | | | |at— | | | | | | | Gureir | 12| 431 |Scattered | | | | |village, | | | | |extending for | | | | |nearly 8 miles.| | | | |River banks | | | | |deeply | | | | |cultivated | | | | |almost its | | | | |entire length. | | | | |Good camping | | | | |grounds are to | | | | |be found on the| | | | |water’s edge | | | | |just before the| | | | |village is | | | | |entered from | | | | |the south, and | | | | |at its northern| | | | |extremity, and | | | | |at a point 6 | | | | |miles from its | | | | |southern end. | | | | |The cultivation| | | | |lies on the low| | | | |ground formed | | | | |by mud deposits| | | | |at the salient | | | | |angles of the | | | | |river, the | | | | |village being | | | | |situated on the| | | | |original bank; | | | | |the water is | | | | |consequently | | | | |only accessible| | | | |at the re- | | | | |entrant angles.| | | | |Saturday | | | | |market. | | | | | | | Hannek or | 1| 432 |Districts of |Abu Rannat |Large village Korti | | |Korei, Arak, |Island (436) 3 |of mud huts. district | | |and Tangassi |miles long |Much wood of | | | | |considerable | | | | |size. Then come | | | | |Magashi, El | | | | |Zoma, Tulbenab, | | | | |and Kajabi. | | | | | Tangassi | 9| 441 |A large | | | |710 |scattered | | | | |village with | | | | |deep | | | | |cultivation in | | | | |a salient angle| | | | |of the river. | | | | |Tuesday market,| | | | |the most | | | | |important in | | | | |province and | | | | |well known | | | | |throughout the | | | | |Sudan. Police | | | | |post. | | | | | | | El Debeiba| 2| 443 |Small village | |Desert | | |with wide strip| |sandstone rock | | |cultivation | |comes down to | | | | |the right bank, | | | | |forming cliffs | | | | |40 to 60 feet | | | | |high, extending | | | | |for about 2½ | | | | |miles along the | | | | |bank. | | | | | Abu Dom | 3| 446 |A scattered | | Sanam | | |village at the | | (site of | | |confluence of | | ancient | | |the Khor Abu | | town of | | |Dom with the | | Napata) | | |Nile. The | | | | |cultivation | | | | |runs a | | | | |considerable | | | | |distance inland| | | | |along the Khor,| | | | |which delivers | | | | |a considerable | | | | |stream during | | | | |the rainy | | | | |season. | | | | |Surrounded by | | | | |dense | | | | |vegetation and | | | | |trees. A road | | | | |from here joins| | | | |the Dugiyet- | | | | |Berber road. | | | | |Supplies of all| | | | |kinds | | | | |plentiful. | | | | | | | Merowe | 1| 447 |Merowe. | |Old village of (capital) | |719 |Headquarters of| |Merowe. | | |province and | |Advanced post | | |residence of | |during summer | | |the Governor. | |of 1885, under | | |It is | |Commander | | |practically on | |Julian Baker, | | |the site of the| |R.N. | | |1896 camp of | | | | |Abu Dom Sanam. | |Will be | | |The town has | |terminus of the | | |yet to be | |branch line | | |built. At | |from Abu Hamed. | | |present it only| |From Affat to | | |consists of | |Merowe boats | | |about 30 | |will have to be | | |houses, | |towed by tugs, | | |including | |as they are | | |offices, | |unable to | | |telegraph, etc.| |navigate this | | | | |bit of river | | |Desert road to | |against wind | | |S.E. to Jakdul | |and stream. ----------+---+------+---------------+----------------+---------------

From Kosha onwards both the river banks become more and more cultivated, and are divided into districts varying from 1 to 4 or 5 miles in length, each containing one or more villages: gaps between districts in uncultivated parts.

All these districts consist of a greater or lesser amount of cultivated or uncultivated ground, together with a varying number of palm trees and huts. Each district is under a headman, and groups of them form the various sub-Districts, each under a Police Officer, a varying number of which go to make up a District; and out of these is formed the Province.

Only the more important sub-Districts will be mentioned in the River Itinerary.

[Kms.: Kilometres. I.: Intermediate. F.H.C.: From Halfa Camp.]

----------+----------+---------------+----------------+--------------- | Miles. | | | Place. | Kms. | Left (West) | River and | Right (East) +---+------+ Bank. | general. | Bank. | I.|F.H.C.| | | ----------+---+------+---------------+----------------+--------------- Faras | | 20 |Bare, except |Northern point |Cultivated in Island | | 32 |for a few huts |of the Sudan |general. Palm | | |and patches of |Administration |trees. Sandy. | | |cultivation. |on river. River |Banks 20 feet | | |Sandy and |some 800 yards |at low Nile, 4 | | |rocky, sloping |in width, |feet at high. | | |to the river |current 1½ miles| | | | |per hour at low | | | | |Nile to 3 miles | | | | |per hour at high| | | | |Nile | | | | | | Jebel | 12| 8 | |The 22nd |Jebel Sahaba, Sahaba | | | |parallel crosses|hill on R. | | | |the river at |bank. | | | |this point | | | | | | Dabarosa | 5| 3 | |Fertile island. | | | | | | Halfa | 1½| 1½ | |Difficult |A commercial | | | |approach to |town of about | | | |right bank at |2,500 | | | |low Nile. |inhabitants, of | | | |Numerous |which about 200 | | | |sandbanks |are Greeks. | | | |appear, varying |(See Chapter | | | |from year to |III, page 85.) | | | |year on this |Landing place | | | |stretch |for goods and | | | | |passengers. | | | | |Headquarters of | | | | |Halfa Province. | | | | |Terminus of | | | | |S.G.R. | | | | | Halfa Camp| 1½| 0 |Nearly opposite|The best |Headquarters of (802 miles| | |Halfa is the |description of |the Sudan by river | | |Quarantine |the river |Railway. from | | |Camp, on a |between the 2nd |Landing place Cairo) | | |sandy slope |and 3rd |close to | | | |cataracts |officers’ mess. | | | |(including both)|Bank 10 to 30 | | | |is by Commander |feet above | | | |Hammill, R.N., |river (226 | | | |whose report |miles from | | | |(1884) is to be |Shellal). | | | |found in H.S.C.,| | | | |Vol. I., | | | | |Appendix O | | | | | | Khor Musa | 5| 5 |The bank |Some additional |Fort now in | | |generally gets |matter, with |ruins. Action | | |more rocky and |large-scale (but|v. Dervishes | | |broken |inaccurate) map |1888. Bank | | | |of the different|broken and | | | |rapids, is given|rocky. Huge | | | |in O.G.H., pp. |boulders. | | | |9-25 | | | | | | Foot of | 1½| 6½ | |The cataract, 8½| 2nd | |_10_½ | |miles in length,| cataract | | | |is impassable | (Shellal | | | |for steamers and| el Amka) | | | |nearly so for | | | | |any but small | | | | |boats at low | | | | |Nile, and only | | | | |navigable with | | | | |difficulty at | | | | |high Nile. At | | | | |high Nile it is | | | | |a rumbling mass | | | | |of rapids, | | | | |whilst at low | | | | |Nile it is a | | | | |broken expanse | | | | |of black rock, | | | | |with shallow | | | | |channels finding| | | | |their way | | | | |between. The | | | | |Batn El Hagar | | | | |(Belly of rocks)| | | | |is now entered. | | | | |See Hammill’s | | | | |report for | | | | |detail. | | | | | | Abu Sir | ½| 7 |High cliff. |The banks of the| | | |Fine view of |river between | | | |cataract |this point and | | | | |Ginnis, where | | | | |the Batn El | | | | |Hagar is | | | | |quitted, differ | | | | |remarkably in | | | | |their | | | | |characteristics.| | | | |The left or | | | | |western bank | | | | |usually presents| | | | |a steep slope of| | | | |loose golden | | | | |sand, driven by | | | | |the prevailing | | | | |winds from the | | | | |great Libyan | | | | |Desert, varied | | | | |by black crags | | | | |jutting out of | | | | |it and low rocky| | | | |hills, while the| | | | |right or eastern| | | | |bank is | | | | |generally rocky,| | | | |free from sand, | | | | |and in some | | | | |places almost | | | | |precipitous. | | | | | | Matuka | 3| 10 |Ancient | | | | 16 |Egyptian | | | | |fortress of | | | | |Matuka (XIIth | | | | |Dynasty). Small| | | | |temple to S.E. | | | | |(see Murray, | | | | |page 982). | | | | | | | Head of | 3| 13 | |Between the head| 2nd | | 21 | |of the 2nd | cataract | | | |cataract and the| | | | |foot of the | | | | |Semna Rapid the | | | | |Nile runs | | | | |through a | | | | |sterile and | | | | |uninviting | | | | |country, the | | | | |eastern side | | | | |covered with | | | | |masses of black | | | | |rocks, the | | | | |western with | | | | |mountains of | | | | |yellow sand. The| | | | |navigation is | | | | |described as | | | | |“difficult, | | | | |dangerous, and | | | | |tedious.” | | | | | | Gemai | 2| 15 | | |Used in 1884-5 | | | | |as head of | | | | |railway, | | | | |portage for | | | | |boats, &c. | | | | | Murshid | 10| 25 | | | | | | | | Sarras | 8| 33 | | |Advanced post | | 53 | | |and fort of the | | | | |Frontier force | | | | |1886 to 1896. | | | | | Ruin | 1| 34 |Ancient | |Railway here | | |Egyptian fort | |leaves the | | | | |river bank and | | | | |enters the | | | | |rocky desert to | | | | |the East. | | | | | Melik | 6| 40 | |Melik Island; | | | 64 | |ancient temple | | | | |of Sikator I. | | | | | | Semna | 3| 43 |Semna Temple on|Here a narrow |Kumna Temple on Rapid | | |height about |ridge of gneiss |height about | | |300 feet above |forms an awkward|400 feet above | | |river. Jebel |barrier. At high|river. | | |Barga just |Nile the river | | | |behind |sweeps over it | | | | |without | | | | |perceptible | | | | |diminution of | | | | |width (430 | | | | |yards), but at | | | | |low Nile the | | | | |rocks are bare | | | | |save for a | | | | |narrow channel, | | | | |45 yards broad | | | | |and 65 feet | | | | |deep, formed by | | | | |erosion. | | | | |(Gregory.) | | | | | | Atiri | 7| 50 | |The obstructions| Rapid | | 80 | |to navigation | | | | |consist of 2 | | | | |“gates” about 1½| | | | |miles apart; of | | | | |these the lower | | | | |gate presents no| | | | |difficulty. It | | | | |is about 300 | | | | |yards long, and | | | | |steamers are | | | | |able to steam up| | | | |through it at | | | | |“half Nile” | | | | |without | | | | |unloading. The | | | | |upper “gate” is | | | | |more troublesome| | | | |to pass, the | | | | |channel being | | | | |obstructed by a | | | | |great barrier of| | | | |rocks which | | | | |stretch quite | | | | |200 yards across| | | | |the river, | | | | |leaving at “low | | | | |Nile” only a | | | | |narrow gap | | | | |towards the | | | | |western bank. At| | | | |“high Nile” | | | | |another channel | | | | |exists near the | | | | |opposite bank. | | | | |Not serious. | | | | | | Ambugol | 7| 57 | |One mile long; | Rapid | | | |channel near | | | | |right bank. Fall| | | | |3 feet. Not | | | | |difficult. | | | | | | Tanjur | 15| 72 |Bank low and |Extends for |Bank high and Rapid | |116 |even, desert |about 3 miles. |precipitous, | | |sand up to |Awkward cross |much broken up. | | |river |currents at | | | | |foot. Western | | | | |channel best. | | | | |“Gates” at | | | | |either end | | | | |straight and | | | | |clear, but | | | | |considerable | | | | |rush of water. | | | | |Difficult rapid | | | | |altogether | | | | | | Jebel | 2| 74 | | |Road passes to Alimula | | | | |west of J. | | | | |Alimula and by | | | | |a precipitous | | | | |track cutting | | | | |off bend to | | | | |Sonki. | | | | | Sonki | 3| 77 | | | | | | | | Omka | 2| 79 |Bank low and |Slight rapid, |Range of hills | | |fairly level |not serious |recedes from | | | | |river bank low | | | | |and even. | | | | | Hammam | 5| 84 |Hot spring | | | |135 |(sulphur) for | | | | |rheumatism, | | | | |etc. | | | | | | | Akasha | 1| 85 | |Easy rapid. |At the village | |137 | |Ridge of rocks |of this name | | | |extends across |the railway | | | |river. Western |touches the | | | |channel best |river for the | | | | |first time | | | | |since Sarras. | | | | |Macdonald’s | | | | |advanced | | | | |brigade | | | | |occupied this, | | | | |April, 1896. | | | | |Headquarters of | | | | |District and | | | | |residence of | | | | |Mamur. | | | | | Kulba | 8| 93 |Late boundary |River begins to | | |150 |(1903) between |open out. | | | |Halfa District | | | | |and Dongola | | | | |Province | | | | | | | Dal | 5| 98 |Bank low and |Broken water |Bank higher Cataract | |158 |even. Village |about 4 miles, |than opposite | | |here and on |numerous islands|one, evenly | | |adjoining |with high |undulating. | | |islands. On one|cliffs, |Becomes | | |island is a |difficult rapid,|gradually | | |Mameluke fort, |careful pilotage|cultivated. | | |whence good |required—low |Jebel Dal, 4 | | |view obtainable|ridges and rocks|miles to the | | | |well covered at |east, tall | | | |high Nile. |conical hill, | | | |Channel by right|1,973 feet. | | | |bank till half- | | | | |way up, and then| | | | |cross to left. | | | | |Total width of | | | | |river about | | | | |1,500 yards. | | | | |Fall of 5 feet | | | | | | Sarkamatto| 6| 104 |Desert road |The river from |Cultivated | |167 |here leaves |here to Amara, |tract, | | |river for a |16 miles on, is |dominated in | | |short cut of 19|in parts full of|its upper | | |miles S.W., to |small islands, |portion by | | |Sakiet El Abd |but offers no |Jebel Firket, | | | |difficulty |1,880 feet. The | | | | |action of | | | | |6.7.1896 took | | | | |place to the | | | | |south of this | | | | |hill, and a | | | | |mile north of | | | | |Firket village. | | | | |The railway, | | | | |after short cut | | | | |from Akasha, | | | | |here comes | | | | |close to the | | | | |river, and | | | | |follows it | | | | |through Mograka | | | | |to Kosha, where | | | | |it turns sharp | | | | |to the south, | | | | |following for | | | | |the first 12 | | | | |miles the | | | | |desert road to | | | | |Abu Sari. Seven | | | | |miles to the | | | | |east lies Jebel | | | | |Idris, 1,720 | | | | |feet, and 6 | | | | |miles E.S.E. of | | | | |the latter | | | | |rises the mass | | | | |of Jebel Hamra, | | | | |2,368 feet. | | | | | Jebel | 1| 105 | | | Firket | | | | | | | | | | Firket | 2| 107 |3 miles inland | |Action here Village | |172 |is a hill, | |between E.A. | | |1,490 feet, | |and Dervishes: | | |name doubtful | |7.6.96. | | | | | Sarghun | 4| 111 | |Island near east| | | | |bank. | | | | | | Kosha | 2| 113 |Road leaves |The channel here|Headquarters of | |182 |river here for |turns in a wide |District and | | |Selima Oasis |curve to the |residence of | | | |west. Native |Mamur. | | | |boats take 8-10 | | | | |days from here | | | | |to Dulgo at high| | | | |Nile with fair | | | | |wind. | ----------+---+------+---------------+----------------+---------------

RECAPITULATORY TABLE OF DISTANCES.

------------------------+------------------+------------------- | Intermediate. | From Halfa. +------+-----------+------+------------ |Miles.|Kilometres.|Miles.|Kilometres. ------------------------+------+-----------+------+------------ Faras Island | — | — | 20 | 32 | | | | Halfa Camp | 20 | 32 | — | — | | | | Foot of 2nd Cataract | 6½ | 10½ | 6½ | 10½ | | | | Head of „ „ | 6½ | 10½ | 13 | 21 | | | | Akasha | 72 | 116 | 85 | 137 | | | | Kosha | 28 | 45 | 113 | 182 | | | | Dalgo | 78 | 125 | 191 | 307 | | | | Kaibar Cataract | 12 | 19 | 203 | 325 | | | | Third (Hannek) Cataract | 26 | 42 | 229 | 368 | | | | Dongola | 51 | 82 | 280 | 450 | | | | Debba | 91 | 146 | 371 | 596 | | | | Korti | 45 | 72 | 416 | 668 | | | | Merowe | 31 | 50 | 447 | 719 ------------------------+------+-----------+------+------------

SECTION 2.—MEROWE TO KHARTOUM.

SUB-SECTION (A). MEROWE TO ABU HAMED.

The distinguishing feature of the river between Merowe and Abu Hamed is the difficulty of navigation, and also of communications along either bank. A variety of rapids, mostly impassable except at high Nile, form the 4th Cataract, which extends practically from Belal to Shirri, a distance of about 67 miles, whilst there are little or no cultivation or supplies, except in patches on either bank. This (Rapids) portion of the river was ascended in whale boats by most of the River Column in 1885, and the right bank was traversed by General Hunter’s flying column in 1897, when proceeding to attack Abu Hamed. Otherwise it is not now generally in use for communications,[25] owing to these obvious difficulties. A telegraph line now connects Merowe with Abu Hamed.

[The reader who may wish for further detail than that given below is referred to “N.O.” 1st and 2nd editions (1897 and 1898), which give some additional reports by slightly different routes.]

REMARKS ON THE SHAIGIA CATARACTS.

(Lieut. Poore, R.N., October, 1884.)

The prevailing winds are north-easterly and boats can rarely use their sails, excepting occasionally at high Nile when a southerly wind may blow for a few days.

Boats leaving Ambugol for Abu Hamed invariably have to tow the whole way.

The pilots state the average passage of a nugger[26] from Merowe to Abu Hamed as being from 35 to 40 days, but they appear to perform the journey in parties of about 10 boats, in order to supply their own hauling labour, thus considerably increasing the time of passage.

Nuggers generally leave Debba on the trip to Abu Hamed 20 days before high Nile and try to time their arrival at Abu Hamed as soon as possible after the river begins to fall.

Steamers should not leave Merowe for Abu Hamed later than 10 days after high Nile.

Nuggers should not leave Merowe for Abu Hamed later than 15 days after high Nile.

There are men in the village of Bela at the foot of the Gerendid Cataract and in a few of the villages near Merowe who are acquainted with the different cataracts, but would seem to be more useful as guides to point out the different channels than as pilots, their knowledge of boats or nuggers seeming very limited.

It would be advisable to take pilots for the cataracts from the rais of nuggers.

Supplies between the cataract of Gerendid and Abu Hamed are very scanty, a few scattered patches of date palms, wheat and dura constituting all cultivation.

Between the different cataracts the banks appear to be rocky and badly adapted for towing. The stream is swift with frequent sharp bends and the river studded with rocks and small islands.

Confusion may arise from the custom of the pilots and natives in continuing the terms east and west as regards the river banks after the river has turned to the northward at Ambugol; the right bank being invariably termed the east and vice versâ without reference to the direction of the river. Thus, between Ambugol and Abu Hamed, a wind which is termed by the pilots south-westerly is in reality north-easterly.

REPORT ON PASSAGE OF 4TH CATARACT BY NUGGERS AND GAYASSAS.

(Captain W. Doran, August, 1897.)

The following is a report on the river between Kassingar and Amari, together with remarks on points that have come under my observation:—

Nuggers with a strong favourable wind can get up to Meshra El Abiad, but there is a strong current below Meshra El Abiad for about 3 or 4 miles, and the track (on the right bank) is rocky, or much obstructed by sunt trees.

Meshra El Abiad presents no great difficulty. About 50 men will pull a nugger of 200 ardebs through in half an hour.

For about 3 miles after leaving Meshra El Abiad, the channel on the right bank presents no difficulty, though the stream is strong, and the banks steep and covered with sunt bushes, which at high Nile will impede towing.

About 5 miles from Meshra El Abiad the banks become rocky, and rapids are met with; the water being very bad, and rocks numerous. I crossed this rapid, which is about a mile in length, and extends to just below the village of Shebabik, in half a gale. Otherwise, I should think the passage would be difficult, as the rocks on the right bank are very steep, and without a strong wind portage would probably be necessary. From Shebabik village, by following a channel on the right bank past the village of Abu Haraz, good water is met with for about 6 miles, till the cataract of Halfaya is reached.

From Halfaya to the village of Amari, a distance of about 2 miles, the river is very difficult, tortuous, and rocky, towing being necessary throughout.

From Amari, I am informed, the river is not difficult.

It must be understood that these remarks refer to the river as I found it. Any rise or fall may make difficult places easy, and vice versâ.

I would venture to make the following suggestions for future river convoys:—

1. That only boats of 150 ardebs should be sent up at present. Large boats are unwieldy, cause great delay, break ropes, and run the risk of losing stores. For example, one of my boats of 300 ardebs took 4 hours to get up a place which boats of 150 ardebs crossed in an hour. It broke two ropes, and was nearly wrecked on several occasions, besides being always a source of delay to the rest of the convoy. The exertion caused to the men in hauling these heavy boats is very great, much greater than that of hauling two boats of half the capacity.

2. Each convoy should consist of not more than 20 boats under a British officer, and should have with it two companies (200 men) of an Egyptian battalion to haul the boats over the cataracts, and in the ordinary stream when the wind is unfavourable. If the water proves easy beyond this place, Amari, these men might return to Merowe from here by return convoy. Men who are good swimmers should be selected, if possible, and, as the work entails great exertion on the men—most of them having to stand work in the water all day—the companies should be relieved after one or two trips.

Unless considered necessary for safety, these men should not bring arms or ammunition with them, except just sufficient for a small guard, as these have to be portaged across bad places, causing delay.

The large cooking pot, “kazan,” is not suitable for these occasions, as men are often separated on islands from the rest of the convoy at night time, and are unable to get their proper food after a hard day’s work. Something of the Flanders kettle type would be better.

3. Each convoy should be provided with four strong hemp ropes of at least 200 fathoms each, in addition to the smaller ropes carried by each boat. These latter should be inspected before the convoy starts.

A small boat of about 50 ardebs would also be most useful to enable the officer in charge of the convoy to go up and down his convoy, and also to assist in the portage of stores from the nearer boats when they get stuck in shallow places or rocks.

REPORT ON THE PASSAGE OF GUNBOATS FROM MEROWE TO ABU HAMED, 9TH TO 29TH AUGUST, 1897 (vide 1489, MEROWE AND ABU HAMED SHEETS.)[27]

(Commander Colin Keppel, R.N.)

To Kasinjar on right bank, river broad, navigation simple. No obstacles. Thence to Kenisha, navigation easy.

At Meshra El Abiad there is a difficult, narrow passage between two rocky islands, with a very sharp turn. Water very rapid, which continues until Um Deras Island is reached.

N.B.—The cataract marked on the official map as El Dermi was not recognisable at this time of the year.

Um Deras Island is practically at the foot of what is termed the Gab El Abd, or 4th Cataract, it was from thence that a course by the left bank was followed by the river column in 1884-85. This channel was found to be so difficult and dangerous at high Nile, it was decided to examine the channel by the right bank. This was found to be more easily navigable for steamers at this time of the year. It should, however, be noted that this channel, though navigable for steamers at high Nile, and undoubtedly the only channel to be followed with safety at that time, would be impassable at any other time of the year. As at low Nile, many parts of it are dry.

From Um Deras Island to the point marked Khor Abu Herejil (north bank) (A),[27] no great difficulties are encountered.

At this point all guns, ammunition stores, and heavy gear of every description were taken out of the steamers and portaged to the camp of El Bana, a distance of about 2 miles.

The following arrangements were then made for passing the steamers over this cataract:—

A wire hawser was fastened round the ship. Two hawsers were then led out of the steamer, one for hauling, and other to serve as a guy to steady her, and to prevent her bow from being taken round by the force of water.

About 600 yards up-stream, at the junction of a smaller channel (B), these hawsers were slipped, and the steamer reached the southernmost point of the next bend (C).

From this point to a point 1,100 yards up-stream (D) the greatest difficulties were met with, owing to the necessity of passing ropes on to the island 300 yards up-stream (E). As many men as could swim had to cross over to this island. The steamer was then hauled up to the southern end of the island.

The rope had now to be passed from the island (E) to point (D).

At point (D) the haulage became very difficult, as the river thence, for 600 yards, to point (G), in mid-stream, is intersected by isolated rocks, upon which it was necessary to have groups of men in order to pass the rope from one rock to another. From point (G) the hawser was then led to the mainland. Guy ropes were used throughout.

After passing the rock marked (G) powerful steamers, of the “Zafir” class, were able to steam, without further haulage, to El Bana, but otherwise it was necessary to use ropes for hauling up to El Bana.

On leaving El Bana, the channel on the right bank was followed, and though the water was rapid in places, rushing between numerous small islands, no great difficulty was encountered until arrival at the foot of the Geridu (Geriddo) Rapids (3¼ miles up). Here it was necessary to tie up to the bank in order that each steamer might pass over the rapid separately.

It will be seen that the channel takes a very sharp turn here (between points A and B); a large volume of water rushes with considerable force between an island (440 yards long, with a rock at the west end) and the south bank (a promontory on the south bank), where a rope was attached to a rock, and then gradually eased off to let the bow go round.

From Geridu to Hosh El Geruf the channel is devoid of obstacles.

The channel taken was by the right, until El Shwadiyat was reached, whence it crosses to the left bank and continues thus as far as Rakabat El Gamal; here the river becomes a maze of small islands. The channel continues by the left (?) bank of Dulka Island (known by the natives as Dirbi), smaller islands being left on the starboard side.

The current thence became very strong, and continued so until Kirbekan Rapids was reached.

At the bottom of these rapids the steamers were stopped, but the cataract, after examination, having been considered passable without haulage, each steamer went over it separately, in order to prevent any risk of one hampering another.

The main stream was then followed as far as Uss Rapids; here the volume of water was very great. From the top of Uss Rapids the channel followed was by the left bank as far as Sherari Island, whence it passes by the right bank of that island, and thence between it and Shirri Island to the right bank of the river.

The river now becomes very broad, and navigation is practicable on either bank from Salamat to Hebi. From Hebi to Abu Selem the channel is by the left bank. In Huella Rapids there was a strong rush of water.

The river now becomes much intersected by small islands, and, though navigation is not very difficult, skilful pilotage is necessary.

Wood was found in the following places:—

El Bana. Salamat.

Hosh El Geruf. Abu Selem.

Uss village. Left bank, just below Mograt Island.

ITINERARY (LEFT BANK) FROM ABU DOM SANAM TO OPPOSITE HEBI (OR HEBBA)

(Major Slade, R.A., February, 1885.)

--------------+---------------------+-------------------------------- | Distance in miles. | Names of +-------------+-------+ Places. | | Total | Description. |Intermediate.| from | | |Merowe.| --------------+-------------+-------+-------------------------------- El Dueim | 3 | 3 |A small scattered village; a | | |large white-domed tomb makes it | | |visible for some distance. | | | Sagag | 1 | 4 |A compact hamlet, mostly of | | |straw huts, ¼ mile from the | | |river. The banks, which for the | | |last 4 miles have been bare, | | |here become studded with palms. | | | Gereif | 1 | 5 |A collection of wells and | | |sagias from which the ground is | | |cultivated. The uncultivated | | |ground is covered with coarse | | |grass. A low range of hills | | |here touches the south of the | | |road. | | | Nurri | 2 | 7 |This village extends a | | |considerable distance inland. | | |Near it, to the south of the | | |road are 11 pyramids. Soon | | |after leaving them the alluvial | | |ground over which the road has | | |hitherto passed gives place to | | |sand. | | | Belal | 1 | 8 |A large well-built village. The | | |road here runs close to the | | |river between small patches of | | |cultivation and a track of very | | |broken rocky ground, which | | |comes to within ¼ mile of the | | |river. This stony tract is | | |about 50 feet above the | | |alluvial ground. At the east | | |end of the village a break in | | |the cultivation leaves room for | | |a small camp on the river bank. | | | Khor-el-Sorawi| 3 | 11 |A dry watercourse, 20 yards | | |wide. It shows signs of out- | | |pouring a considerable stream | | |in the rainy season. 1 mile | | |further to the east the river | | |makes a sharp bend to the | | |north-east, the edge of broken | | |ground continuing to run in an | | |easterly direction. The road | | |takes an intermediate course | | |across a plain of firm gravel | | |which lies between the rocks | | |and the river. | | | Kanisa | 1 | 12 |A small village ½ mile to the | | |north of the road, at the foot | | |of a small rocky hill, in an | | |angle of the river. | | | El Dugaiyet | 1 | 13 |A scattered village. The broken | | |ground here again comes to | | |within ½ mile of the river. | | |There is a good camping ground | | |on the river bank near the | | |village. The road to Bir Sani | | |and Berber here branches off. | | |It runs at first over very | | |rocky ground. There are said to | | |be 90 islands in the river | | |between this place and Belal. | | |The cultivation of the district | | |is for the most part on these | | |islands. | | | Hamdab | 5 | 18 |A very long village with a fair | | |amount of cultivation. The road | | |from Dugaiyet runs between the | | |broken ground and thick bush. | | |Just before reaching Hamdab the | | |rocky ground opens out | | |considerably at the mouth of | | |the Khor El Shungui. A good | | |camping ground on the river | | |bank. The road described from | | |Hamdab onwards was followed by | | |part of River Column, 1885. | | | | | |Dates, dura, cotton, dukhn, and | | |barley grown. The road to | | |Berber leaves the river about 2 | | |miles below Hamdab, crossing | | |the rocky ground at a point | | |marked by two solitary dom | | |palms. | | | | | |Good camping ground for a large | | |force, commanded by rocky | | |ridge, 400 yards from river. | | | Jebel Kulgeili| 4 | 22 |The road as far as Jebel | | |Kulgeili skirts the belt of | | |cultivation, which is | | |interspersed with a few native | | |houses. It is commanded the | | |whole way by a low ridge of | | |rocks, at a distance from the | | |river varying from 50 to 500 | | |yards. | | | | | |Jebel Kulgeili, 400 feet high, | | |commands the surrounding | | |country for a distance of | | |several miles. The direct | | |desert road to Berti (19 miles) | | |leaves the river at the foot of | | |this hill. | | | | | |The road, after leaving | | |Kulgeili, becomes rocky and | | |much cut up by ravines and | | |sandy khors, gradually becoming | | |more difficult as the islands | | |of Auli are approached. The | | |river between Hamdab and Auli | | |is quite open, and free from | | |broken water. | | | Auli | 8 | 30 |At Auli the cataract of Terai | | |commences; but it is not | | |difficult. There are several | | |houses and much cultivation on | | |the islands and on the left | | |bank. Good camping grounds are | | |to be found. | | | El Kabur | 3 | 33 |Cultivation extends along the | | |road, broken at times by rocky | | |and barren ground. At El Kabur, | | |which is situated at the end of | | |the nest of islands which forms | | |the 4th or Edermi Cataract, | | |there is scanty cultivation and | | |a few houses. | | | | | |From Auli to El Kabur by water | | |the boat channel follows the | | |right bank. There is one | | |difficult gate, about two- | | |thirds of the way up, at which | | |heavy stores have to be | | |portaged. The country to the | | |east of the road along the left | | |bank is very rocky and broken, | | |and nearly impracticable for | | |cavalry. | | | Kabeinat | 1 | 34 |The road leaves the river at El (ruined forts)| | |Kabur and follows the bed of a | | |sandy khor until an old ruined | | |fort built upon a rocky | | |prominence commanding the river | | |is reached. The rocky and | | |broken ground skirts the river | | |between El Kabur and Kabeinat, | | |and is impracticable for | | |cavalry. Opposite this ruined | | |fort there is another of a | | |similar kind. The river between | | |these two forts is very narrow, | | |and forms the commencement of | | |the Kabeinat Cataract. | | | Mushani ridge | 5 | 39 |The road skirts the river bank; | | |but although the country is | | |more open than that previously | | |travelled it is broken at parts | | |by rocky ridges and deep | | |ravines. Much acacia and many | | |dom palms are found. | | | | | |Kabeinat Cataract presents no | | |difficulty to navigation, and | | |although the current is rapid, | | |no broken water offering | | |serious impediments to the | | |passage of boats, is met with | | |until the Gab El Abd Gate, 2 | | |miles above the ruined forts, | | |is reached. Here there is a | | |direct fall of water which, | | |however, can be avoided by | | |going over to the right bank. | | |From this point to Mushani | | |ridge, which may be called the | | |upper end of Gab El Abd | | |Cataract, the river presents | | |most serious difficulties. | | |Tracking from rocks and islands | | |has invariably to be resorted | | |to, and at low Nile it is | | |doubtful whether even light | | |boats could be taken up this | | |part of the river. | | | | | |Mushani Ridge commands the | | |country to the north-east as | | |far as the distant hills | | |overlooking Berti. The ridge | | |runs at right angles to the | | |river, and the rocks and | | |boulders in which it terminates | | |come down close to the left | | |bank of the river. There is but | | |little cultivation along this | | |part of the river, except on | | |the islands of Umderas and | | |Amri, the former of which is | | |passed just after leaving | | |Kabeinat, and at the village of | | |Shebabik on the right bank | | |opposite the lower end of | | |Umderas Island. | | | Warrak | 1 | 40 |There is a large tomb and a few | | |detached huts at this point, | | |with a certain amount of | | |cultivation, very good camping | | |grounds, much mimosa, and many | | |dom-palm trees. | | | | | |The cataract of Um Hababoa is | | |here met with, lying between | | |Kandi Island and the left bank. | | |It is very difficult, and it is | | |supposed, from the remains of | | |wreckage found lying about, it | | |was near this point that Ismail | | |Pacha abandoned his boats in | | |1820. | | | | | |This cataract can be avoided at | | |high Nile by going between the | | |islands of Amri and Kandi, the | | |passage between which islands | | |was nearly dry in February, | | |1885. | | | | | |A track leads from Warrak to | | |Berti, across rocky and broken | | |ground; but it is not much | | |shorter than that generally | | |followed. | | | Gamra | 2 | 42 |The road skirts the river | | |through considerable | | |cultivation, mostly dukhn. At | | |Gamra, which is opposite the | | |upper end of Kandi Island, | | |there are several native huts, | | |and good camping grounds can | | |everywhere be found. | | | | | |The river between Warrak and | | |Gamra is not difficult; but | | |there is a very swift current, | | |and tracking is necessary at | | |certain points from the left | | |bank. | | | | | |One mile beyond Gamra the road | | |leaves the river to avoid the | | |rocky kopjes which command the | | |foot and mark the commencement | | |of the Rahami Cataract. It | | |strikes the river again 2 miles | | |below Berti. It is very rocky, | | |and much cut up by deep khors | | |and ravines. | | | | | |A broad, sandy khor leaves the | | |river 1½ miles above Gamra, and | | |runs away to the east until | | |lost in the desert. | | | | | |By following this khor until it | | |strikes the Kulgeili-Berti | | |road, the mountains and rocky | | |country overlooking Berti can | | |be avoided, and Berti entered | | |at its upper end. | | | | | |The river between the foot of | | |Rahami Cataract and Berti | | |offers most serious obstacles | | |to navigation. The boat channel | | |lies along the right bank. | | | Berti | 6 | 48 |Berti is a scattered village | | |extending over a length of 2 | | |miles. It is situated mostly on | | |an island which, however, forms | | |part of the mainland at low | | |Nile. The cultivation is very | | |rich and plentiful, and barley, | | |dura, cotton, wheat, beans, | | |dates, and dukhn grow in great | | |abundance. This is the boundary | | |between Dongola and Berber | | |Provinces. | | | | | |The lower end of the village is | | |situated in rocky ground, but | | |the larger portion lies in the | | |open. | | | | | |The direct road from Jebel | | |Kulgeili enters near the house | | |of Suleiman Wad Gamr, about | | |half-way up the village. | | | | | |Berti is the head-quarters of | | |the Monasir tribe, and is on | | |the boundary between Berber and | | |Dongola Provinces. | | | | | |The island of Ishashi is passed | | |just before reaching Berti, and | | |is very richly cultivated. | | | Jebel Kirbekan| 8 | 56 |Between Berti and El Kirbekan | | |there are several pieces of | | |broken water, but nothing | | |worthy of the term “cataract” | | |is to be met with until | | |opposite Dulka Island, where | | |the cataract of Ragabat El | | |Gamal obstructs the river; it | | |is not difficult. Boni Island | | |lies on the right side of the | | |river, abreast of and | | |overlapping Dulka Island, and | | |between it and the right bank | | |the cataract of Abu Sayal is | | |situated. It is impassable at | | |low Nile. In the centre of Boni | | |Island, and in prolongation of | | |the Kirbekan ridge, is a | | |remarkable round-topped | | |mountain, which can be seen for | | |several miles before Boni | | |Island is reached. | | | | | |On leaving the belt of | | |cultivation at Berti, the track | | |leaves the river and winds | | |through a mass of rocks and | | |boulders until it again strikes | | |the river opposite a small | | |island, on which are the | | |remains of a ruined castle | | |(Castle Camp of River Column); | | |distance from Berti, 6 miles. | | |Scant cultivation and a good | | |camping ground for a small | | |force are here to be found. | | | | | |After leaving the bank opposite | | |the ruined castle, the track | | |again quits the river and | | |follows the bed of a sandy | | |khor, interrupted in parts by | | |belts of rocks and boulders | | |until the river is again struck | | |opposite Dulka Island (6½ miles | | |from Castle Camp), where there | | |is a good camping ground amidst | | |patches of cultivation. One and | | |a half miles beyond this point | | |the long razor-backed hill, | | |running at right angles to the | | |course of the Nile, and known | | |as Jebel Kirbekan (300 feet), | | |is situated. It completely | | |blocks the road, but can be | | |easily turned by marching round | | |its south-west extremity. | | | | | |The action of 10.2.85 took | | |place here. | | | El Kirbekan | 4 | 60 |On leaving Jebel Kirbekan, the (village) | | |track follows the bed of a | | |sandy khor, much broken in | | |places by rocks, &c., for 4 | | |miles, when the village of El | | |Kirbekan, at the lower entrance | | |of the Shukuk Pass, is reached. | | |Here there are a few mud | | |houses, palm trees, and some | | |scant vegetation; barley, dura, | | |and dukhn. | | | | | |The Wadi El Arku, which breaks | | |up into several outlets on | | |nearing the river, comes out at | | |this point, and it is here that | | |the direct road to Abu Egli (78 | | |miles), viâ the Jura Wells | | |(48 miles), leaves the river. | | | Shukuk Pass | ½ | 60½ |The Shukuk Pass is entered (south end) | | |immediately after leaving El | | |Kirbekan. The track leaves the | | |river, and follows the bed of a | | |sandy khor, completely | | |commanded by rocky heights | | |varying from 20 feet to 100 | | |feet, until Jebel Shukuk (350 | | |feet) is reached. This | | |mountain, with its conspicuous | | |marble tops, marks the half-way | | |through the Pass. | | | | | |Leaving Jebel Shukuk on the | | |left-hand side, the track | | |inclines towards the river, the | | |Pass becomes narrower and more | | |difficult, and at places it is | | |impossible for more than one | | |loaded camel to pass at a time. | | |The track at this point is | | |nearly impracticable, and it is | | |with the greatest difficulty | | |that even horses can keep their | | |footing. | | | Shukuk Pass | 7½ | 68 |The Shukuk Pass terminates (north end) | | |suddenly opposite the upper end | | |of Uss Island, and at the | | |commencement of Shoar Island, | | |on which latter island there | | |are many small villages, and | | |much cultivation. | | | | | |The Shukuk Pass can be turned | | |by leaving the river at El | | |Kirbekan, striking into the | | |desert and skirting the whole | | |block of mountains through | | |which the pass runs. This is an | | |easy half-day’s camel ride, but | | |there is no water along the | | |road. | | | | | |Capt. Maxse says (1897) the | | |pass is 7 miles long; there is | | |water at each end, and the | | |going is good, with the | | |exception of ½ mile at the | | |south-west entrance, and ¾ mile | | |at the north-east exit. | | | | | |During that first ½ mile at the | | |entrance the roadway is narrow | | |and intricate, the path being | | |strewn with quantities of small | | |loose locks and boulders. These | | |could be cleared away. The | | |labour thus expended would | | |greatly facilitate all | | |subsequent movements of troops | | |and transport. | | | | | |The ¾ mile of exit could | | |similarly be much improved by | | |manual labour. A little | | |blasting would help still more | | |here. | | | | | |There is, however, 100 yards of | | |pathway at the bottom of a deep | | |cutting, which would defy | | |ordinary appliances. Still | | |there is room for a loaded | | |camel, and the removal of loose | | |stones would make even this bit | | |easy. | | | | | |The interior of the pass is | | |mostly a broad, level, sandy | | |khor, varying in width from 5 | | |yards to 200 yards. | | | | | |Should the pass be held by a | | |stubborn foe, it can be turned | | |without difficulty from the | | |east. | | | | | |The river between El Kirbekan | | |and the end of the Shukuk Pass | | |is clear and free from | | |obstacles, though it flows at | | |times between steep and rocky | | |banks. | | | | | |Just as the upper end of Uss | | |Island is reached, a small | | |rapid has to be passed which is | | |not, however, very difficult. | | | | | |Both north and south of the | | |Shukuk Pass there are numerous | | |drawings of a rough description | | |representing cattle, monkeys, | | |and dogs, probably the same | | |period as those at Murrat—2nd | | |and 3rd century A.D. (Major Sir | | |H. Hill, Bart.). | | | Salamat | 12 | 80 |On debouching from the Shukuk | | |Pass, the country commences to | | |open out, and the hills to | | |recede further from the river. | | |The track follows the bank, | | |which now commences to become | | |more generally cultivated. Just | | |before coming abreast of Shoar | | |Island, the track ascends a | | |rocky plateau, from the summit | | |of which the first view of | | |Jebel Osma is obtained. | | | | | |The Island of Sherrai follows | | |Shoar Island, but it is very | | |barren and rocky. One mile up | | |this island the cataract of | | |Tuari is passed. It is very | | |difficult, and the river is | | |here much broken by rocks and | | |shallows. | | | | | |After passing Tuari Cataract | | |the cultivation increases still | | |more, and sagias and groups of | | |date palms occur at frequent | | |intervals along the bank. The | | |fertile and densely populated | | |Island of Sherri succeeds that | | |of Sherrari. | | | | | |The track continues along the | | |bank of the river, deviating | | |occasionally to avoid clusters | | |of rocks on a khor, until | | |Salamat, opposite the upper end | | |of Sherri Island, is reached. | | | | | |It is at this point that the | | |cataract of Um Deras is placed | | |on the official maps, but no | | |impediment to navigation | | |exists. | | | | | |Salamat, the principal village | | |in the Monasir country, is a | | |long straggling village of | | |fairly-built mud huts, the | | |principal of which belong to | | |Suleiman Wad Gamr and his | | |uncles, Omar and Abu Bakr. The | | |country is very rich and there | | |are several large groups of | | |palm trees. | | | | | |The desert comes down to the | | |bank of the river on the right | | |bank, just above Salamat. | | | | | |The track, after leaving | | |Salamat, follows the bank of | | |the river until Jebel Osma is | | |reached, 3 miles | | | | | |Leaving this solitary mountain | | |on the left, a detour of 1 mile | | |is made, where the river is | | |again struck. A broad sandy | | |khor runs at the foot of Jebel | | |Osma. The bank is now followed | | |until abreast of the village of Opposite Hebi,| 8 | 88 |Hebi, situated on the right or Hebba | | |bank. The road is good | | |throughout. Patches of rich | | |cultivation are constantly met | | |with, near groups of huts built | | |in the rocks and boulders, | | |which are left on the right- | | |hand side. | | | | | |There are two broad khors | | |running into the desert between | | |Salamat and Jebel Osma. Mimosa | | |or sûnt trees, of an unusually | | |large size, are met with along | | |the road. The river is free | | |from obstruction. | | | | | |If going to Abu Hamed, it is | | |advisable to cross the Nile | | |opposite Hebi, where the river | | |affords great facilities for | | |crossing and swimming animals. | | |The island of Kan and smaller | | |islands on the right bank may | | |be utilized in the crossing. | | |Lieut.-Colonel Stewart’s | | |steamer, on its way from | | |Khartoum, was wrecked on the | | |island of Kan on the 18th | | |September, 1884, and he and his | | |party were treacherously | | |murdered in the house of one | | |named Othman Fakri, commonly | | |known as Othman Amian, in the | | |village of Hebi. | | | | | |Hebi is a straggling village, | | |composed of small mud huts, | | |built in the rocks. There are | | |some conspicuous palm trees on | | |the bank of the river. The | | |village was completely | | |destroyed by the British troops | | |in February, 1885. There is | | |much cultivation in and near | | |Hebi: dura, dukhn, barley, | | |beans, etc., growing in | | |luxuriance. --------------+-------------+-------+--------------------------------

OLD MEROWE TO ABU HAMED, BY THE RIGHT BANK OF THE NILE.

(Major Hon. M. G. Talbot, R.E., October, 1897.)

General Notes.

(i.) The grazing for camels is moderate.

(ii.) The places where water can be obtained depend on the time of the year. The bed of the river is the only source of supply.

(iii.) No considerable elevation is crossed anywhere. Probably the road is never more than 100 to 150 feet above high Nile level.

(iv.) Telegraph line follows road where not otherwise mentioned.

(v.) No supplies obtainable on right bank.

--------------+---------------------+-------------------------------- | Distance in miles. | Names of +-------------+-------+ Places. | | Total | Description. |Intermediate.| from | | |Merowe.| --------------+-------------+-------+-------------------------------- Old Merowe | | |Village. | | | J. Barkal | 4 | 4 |Two miles inland. Ancient | | |ruined pyramids at base. Desert | | |road from Dongola joins river | | |here. | | | Kasinjar | 4 | 8 |Telegraph line crosses from | | |left to right bank here. | | | | | |Small fort. | | | Amrao | 19 | 17 |On leaving Kasinjar fort the | | |road curves round with the | | |river, but gradually recedes | | |from it. After 2 miles of good | | |firm sand, with thin thorny | | |scrub, the road turns away from | | |the river to the north-east, | | |passing to the right of Jebel | | |Wad El Duga, beyond which it | | |turns N.N.E., over undulating, | | |stony ground, draining to | | |right. The going is good to 11 | | |miles. At about 13 miles road | | |passes into a shallow basin | | |draining east, from which it | | |emerges at 14½ miles, and | | |begins to descend to river by a | | |bad path down and across small | | |khors. Reaches river at Meshra | | |El Abiad, a good watering | | |place, at 15¾ miles. From 11 to | | |14½ miles the road, though | | |generally good, is less so than | | |before, and passes over bits of | | |stony ground, which would be | | |very troublesome at night or | | |even for a considerable body | | |marching by day. From Meshra El | | |Abiad road runs along river | | |bank; good going for camels, | | |and some grass and thorn | | |grazing. A few huts at Amrao, | | |where there is plenty of room | | |to camp and some shade. | | | | | |There is also a road by the | | |river, which was used by | | |General Hunter’s column. It is | | |said to be bad and to take | | |baggage camels 5 hours. | | | | | |Desert road leaves river at | | |once and follows telegraph wire | | |for 3½ miles, when latter | | |strikes off to right to river, | | |and continues along it to Abu | | |Haraz. To 3½ miles road is | | |good, in flat khor, few bushes | | |on left, and gigantic boulders | | |on right. Keeps on straight to | | |8 miles, crossing plain strewn | | |with scattered ridges of | | |granite boulders, and then | | |turns slightly to right down to Abu Haraz | 9½ | 36½ |river at Abu Haraz, 9 miles, | | |where there are a few ruined | | |mud houses, and a clump of | | |palms at 9½ miles, with camp | | |and shade for a battalion. No | | |water along road. | | | | | |For 4½ miles road winds in and | | |out of low slaty and granitic | | |ridges, with strip of good sand | | |between, keeping generally near | | |the river. It then leaves the | | |river near Khor Abu Herejil and | | |strikes across low slatey | | |ridges to about 7½ miles, when | | |it again strikes an arm of the | | |river, dry at this season, | | |along which it keeps for 1 | | |mile, and then across broad, Hosh El Geruf | 12 | 48½ |low open plateau to Hosh El | | |Geruf. Like all the names in | | |this part, Hosh El Geruf is | | |applied to a strip along the | | |river, rather than to any one | | |spot or village. The spot | | |referred to here is a clump of | | |palms, at the foot of a low | | |hill, near a little | | |cultivation. | | | | | |Road generally bad, quite | | |unsuitable for wheels. It | | |follows river at starting for 1 | | |mile, and then, leaving it, | | |winds up and down khors and | | |over low rocky ridges almost | | |the whole way. From about 8½ to | | |10 miles is the worst bit. Here | | |horses should be led in single | | |file, after that road enters | | |sandy plain and is good to 13 | | |miles, when it commences to | | |cross low ridges again. At 13½ | | |miles the river is seen for the | | |first time and the road Salmia | 14 | 62½ |descends to Salmia, which | | |consists of two or three groves | | |of palms, with a field or two | | |of dura and three or four | | |houses of Monasir. Room to camp | | |three or four battalions, with | | |a little shade. | | | | | |Road leaves river at once, and | | |for 1¾ miles crosses stony | | |ground strewn with boulders. It | | |then gets on to sandy and more | | |open ground, and is good to 3 | | |miles when it drops down to | | |valley of river by a bad path. | | |Then very good sand to 4 miles, | | |where it strikes river bank at | | |Kamasab, just opposite Jebel | | |Us. From here road is bad | | |nearly to 6 miles, when a strip | | |of good going takes it as far | | |as Shukoka, 9 miles, where | | |there is a little cultivation | | |on the bank of the river and on | | |a backwater. Southern end of Dakhfili, | 12½ | 75 |Dakhfili is reached at 12½ south end | | |miles, road being partly along | | |river and never very far from | | |it, and passing several small | | |groups of huts. Dakhfili is a | | |large camping ground ¾ mile | | |long, opposite Shirri Island. | | |It has a few palms and some | | |large sunt trees. No | | |cultivation to speak of. | | | | | |There is another route to | | |Dakhfili from Hosh El Geruf, | | |which leaves the river at much | | |the same place, and keeps | | |straight across the desert to | | |Dakhfili. It was much used by | | |convoys, even at night, and is | | |undoubtedly much better going | | |than the Salmia route, and | | |probably a couple of miles | | |shorter, but there is no water | | |along it. | | | | | |At the north-east end of | | |Dakhfili, road leaves the | | |river, and after 1 mile over | | |heavy sand and sand-covered | | |rock, emerges into the open | | |Khor Haweili, 500 to 600 yards | | |wide, and bounded by low sand- | | |covered slopes. (From this | | |point a track leads to the | | |river and round by it to Um | | |Duema, distance 14 to 15 miles, | | |bad going.) Road continues up | | |khor to 7 miles over sand and | | |gravel, generally very good for | | |camels, but a little soft for | | |men and horses. Room to march | | |in any formation. (From here | | |desert road continues almost El Gab, viâ | 19 | 94 |straight on to El Gab, 17 Um Duema | | |miles, mostly good going, but | | |some heavy sand for the last 3 | | |or 4 miles.) At 7½ miles the Um | | |Duema road strikes off to right | | |by an easy but unfrequented | | |path over low hills partly | | |covered with sand, and descends | | |by a baddish path between Ab | | |Rumeila and Hebi at 11 miles. | | |Road continues easy but narrow | | |along the bank, passing Hebi, | | |12 miles, where there are a few | | |houses, with some palms and a | | |little cultivation, and Um | | |Duema at 13 miles, which is | | |similar to Hebi. At 14 miles, | | |road enters sand which lasts to | | |El Gab. It is heavy in places | | |and bad for men and horses. El | | |Gab is an ancient ruined post | | |on a low rock overlooking the | | |river. There is a small patch | | |of cultivation and a few palms. | | |Plenty of room to camp. | | | | | |Sand continues heavy to 2½ | | |miles, where direct road by | | |desert leaves river and strikes | | |it again at about 10 miles. (I | | |did not follow this, but | | |believe it is fairly good | | |going.) It is possible to march | | |along the river bank, a little | | |longer, but the sand is | | |heavier. | | | Khulla, north | 16 | 110 |Khulla is a strip of the bank end direct | | |some 4 miles long; no houses road | | |nor cultivation, only a few | | |shepherds’ huts; many sunt | | |trees and dom palms. Much room | | |to camp and plenty of shade. | | |The sand is piled with hillocks | | |along the bank, and the road | | |runs on lower ground from 100 | | |to 600 yards from river. | | |Northern boundary of Khulla is | | |Khor Hamadein. This was the | | |furthest point attained by the | | |River Column, 1885. | | | | | |After crossing Khor Hamadein, | | |road keeps due east for about 4 | | |miles and passes through | | |Gemmeiza, a district similar to | | |Khulla, but not so well wooded. | | |Low gravelly hills approach on | | |right bank, and at several | | |points tracks branch off to the | | |left forming short cuts over Ab Tin, by | 20 | 130 |these hills towards Ab Tin. (I river road | | |did not travel by any of these, | | |but I understand they are easy | | |going.) The telegraph line | | |follows one of these. At 4 | | |miles road turns north by | | |baddish track, heavy and stony, | | |following river bank, and | | |passes small village of Tibna | | |at 6 miles. Fair but heavyish | | |going to 10 miles, where short | | |cuts from Khulla and telegraph | | |line join in. Bad going to 11 | | |miles over low, rocky ridges | | |covered with sand; then | | |excellent going to Ginefab, 14 | | |miles. Then ½ mile of bad | | |going, and 5 miles good going | | |to Shellal Gurgurib over open | | |ground with many sunt trees; ¾ | | |mile more of good going to Ab | | |Tin at 20 miles. This, though | | |quite a small place, is the | | |largest village that has been | | |passed. It has a small area of | | |cultivation and some palms. | | | | | |Road good and open, though | | |heavy in places, for 5 miles, | | |till it strikes railway; then | | |heavy sand with small hillocks | | |and many dom palms and other | | |trees to 9 miles, where road | | |and river turn south and track | | |gets harder. The railway | | |station is about 1 mile north | | |of Abu Hamed village. Residence | | |of Mamur and headquarters of Abu Hamed | 10 | 140 |the district. --------------+-------------+-------+--------------------------------

[Sidenote: Abu Hamed.]

Abu Hamed used to be chiefly notable as being the point of arrival and departure of the various caravan routes which traverse the Korosko Desert, and takes its name from a highly venerated sheikh, whose tomb is here situated. The merchants were in the habit of depositing here any articles with which they did not wish to encumber themselves during their journey through the desert, and the environs of the tomb used to be surrounded by every sort of superfluous impedimenta, left by their owners to await their return, with no other protection than that afforded by the sanctity of the defunct sheikh.

Considerable plantations of acacias and doms are found in the neighbourhood of the village, which is also remarkable for the numerous “dunes” or sand hills collected by the winds from the surrounding desert.

It is a small village, utterly destitute of supplies. The sterile desert extends to the very margin of the Nile. Altitude 1,040 feet above sea level. Desert perfectly flat. Deep sand. Major-General Hunter attacked and took the place from the Dervishes on the 7th August, 1897. (Vide p. 254.) The railway reached this point from Wadi Halfa on 31st October, 1897. It is now a watering station for trains, with modern bathrooms for tourists, etc. It is the residence of the Mamur and inspector of the Monasir and Robatab Districts. It is also proposed as the junction of a branch line to Merowe.

SUB-SECTION (B).—ABU HAMED TO KHARTOUM.

Little has been recorded of the actual navigation of the river and the description of its banks between Abu Hamed and Khartoum, and especially of the stretch between Abu Hamed and Berber.

Between these two latter places the desert is broken by numerous ravines and studded with acacias and “dom” palms; the river channel is full of reefs and rapids, and navigation is at all times difficult and somewhat dangerous; cultivation only exists in scanty patches, and the inhabitants are poor and few in number. The inhabitants and cultivation are, however, increasing on both banks.

[Sidenote: Mograt Rapid.]

A couple of miles above Abu Hamed is the Mograt Rapid, consisting of a few miles of bad passages (at low Nile). After clearing the Mograt Rapid, the navigation of the river is unimpeded for about 32 miles, until Mero Island, opposite Abu Hashim, is reached.

[Sidenote: Bagara Rapid.]

As an obstacle to navigation the Abu Hashim Rapid is unimportant, and from the Mograt Rapid there exists a reach of about 50 miles of practically open water to the rapid of Bagara.

The Nile here takes a bend to the west, and for the space of 2 or 3 miles the bed of the river is filled with masses of black rocks, in some places forming dams, over which the river roars in its swift descent (December). This rapid is passable at high Nile, but impracticable at low or even mean Nile.

The cataract of Bagara is not long, but during low or even medium water it is rather rapid.

The banks of the river present no features of interest, and the country on the eastern shore is an almost uninhabited desert, the usual “doms,” which fringe the shore being the only vegetation to be seen, with here and there a scanty patch of cultivation; but, as the Bagara Rapid is approached, an improvement takes place on the western shore.

[Sidenote: 5th Cataract.]

The 5th Cataract, or Shellal el Homar, 24 miles from El Bagara, is a system of tortuous rapids running through irregular dangerous rocks. It is formed by a ridge of black rocks, broken up into islands, of which the main one is termed Draka. Here there are really two distinct cataracts—one to the north, which has two rather dangerous and difficult passages, in consequence of the banks being covered with brushwood rocks and mimosa trees, which prevent the tow rope being employed; the other to the south, called Shellal el Homar. These cataracts, like those that precede them, are dangerous and impracticable during low water.

They were successfully surmounted by the gunboats of the Nile Expedition in September, 1897 (high Nile).

From the 5th Cataract, where the Dar Robatab is quitted and the Dar Berber commences, a path exists on both banks for 30 miles to the town of Berber. About half-way the nature of the soil changes from the primitive desert to sandstone, and ranges of hills formed of the latter begin to show themselves on both banks, but more prominently on the western shore, where, opposite El Hasa, the edge of a stony plateau, about 100 feet high, known as Jebel Nakam, advances to within 200 yards of the water’s edge; thence the road follows the western shore at a distance of about ¾ of a mile, the intervening land being well cultivated and acacias and “dom” palms fairly abundant.

On the right bank, although a fringe of acacias borders the Nile, cultivation is almost entirely absent except in the immediate neighbourhood of the villages, which are met at frequent intervals; and the country, after entering the sandstone formation, consists of nothing but one vast desert plain extending as far as the eye can reach.

In view of the railway running the whole way along the river bank from Abu Hamed to Khartoum the description of the itineraries along the banks is omitted. The reader who desires such is referred to N.O. (pp. 63-70).

[Sidenote: Berber.]

Berber, 131 miles from Abu Hamed (for description, vide Chap. III, p. 85).

Between Berber and the Atbara (20 miles) the cultivation improves, and a fairly broad band runs parallel to the east bank of the river; the inhabitants in this reach are fairly numerous.

The current here runs at the rate of from 2 to 3½ miles per hour; but above it, where the river increases in width, a proportional decrease in the rate of the stream takes place, and it does not exceed 2 miles.

[Sidenote: Atbara confluence.]

The Atbara River, at its point of junction with the Nile, has a deep, well-defined section, and a bed-width of some 400 yards; the banks are steep and high. Although the channel is dry in summer, the flood marks register a height of 25 feet above the bed. The velocity of the Atbara current in flood is so great that it forces the water of the Nile across on to the western bank. The sandbank thus formed causes considerable difficulty to navigation, and in the early spring of 1898 caused the division of the fleet of gunboats into two isolated halves, neither of which could have moved if required to the assistance of the other.

[Sidenote: El Damer.]

South of the junction lies the town of El Damer, formerly celebrated for its learning and university. It is now again a town of growing importance, and is to supersede Berber as the headquarters of the Province. Railway bridge over the Atbara here. The Nile-Red Sea Railway branches off up the right bank of the Atbara, north of the bridge.

From the Atbara to Khartoum the distance, by water, is about 200 miles. On this reach the slope of the river is separated by the Shabluka Cataract into three portions. This cataract begins at some 35 miles from Khartoum, and continues as far as Wad Habashi, 55 miles further north.

The average bed-slopes are:—

From Khartoum to head of Cataract 1/11000

Cataract and Rapids 1/5500

From Wad Habashi to Atbara 1/12500

Between the Atbara and Shendi (86 miles) there is little variety in the river scenery.[28] The average height of the banks over the river is from 25-28 feet; the channel is broad and interspersed with many sandbanks and islands. The eastern bank is flat, and covered with a thick growth of scrub and thorn bushes; the soil is good, but the halfa grass, owing to years of neglect, has got such a hold that very considerable labour is necessary in order to remove it and render the land fit for cultivation. The western bank is lower, and the strip of cultivable land much narrower than on the eastern shore. In places, ravines or “khors” run back from the river, and these in flood must be full of water. The whole tract has a most desolate appearance; villages are few and poor; inhabitants and cattle are wanting, although a few small flocks of sheep and goats are occasionally met with; here and there a sagia is at work; but the cultivation is confined chiefly to the foreshore of the river and to the islands. At certain points low ranges of hills, such as Jebel Egerdan and Jebel Umali approach the river on either side. Fuel is fairly plentiful, and everywhere the thorn jungle has encroached and swallowed up the areas which were once under cultivation. The depopulation of this district must date from a period anterior to the Dervish rule. Sir Samuel Baker, on visiting the country in 1869, noted the deterioration and desolation which had ensued since his visit of a few years previous. He attributed this ruin to the misgovernment of the Turkish Governor-General.

The “Pyramids of Meroe” are passed about the 17th parallel; they lie close to villages named Maruga and Sur. The district here between the Atbara and the Nile was in ancient times termed the “Island” of Meroe. (See Chap. IV and Appendix D.)

[Sidenote: Shendi.]

Shendi, 86 miles from Atbara mouth, situated on the right bank of the river and on rocky ground, which extends for half a mile above and below the town, was once the capital of the ancient kingdom of Meroe, and is said to have been the residence of the famous Queen of Sheba. Ismail Pasha, son of Mohammed Ali, was here burnt in his hut by the Jaalin in 1822, in revenge for his barbarities. The town and inhabitants were destroyed in 1823 by Mohammed Ali. It is now reviving considerably, and is the headquarters of the Cavalry in the Sudan; it owes its selection chiefly to the fine grazing, the gravel soil, and the level country around it.

[Sidenote: Metemma.]

Four miles beyond Shendi, on the left bank, lies Metemma, the terminus of the trans-Bayuda route from Korti (vide Vol. II), used by the Desert Column in 1885. The town was not assaulted or taken by our troops on that occasion, but was the object of a reconnaissance in force, 21st January, 1885; it lay dormant until 1897, when it became the headquarters of a projected rising against the Dervishes by the Jaalin tribe. Mahmud, however, was warned in time, and exterminated the conspirators and all their belongings. Over 2,000 Jaalin were killed and the town was destroyed. It is still a deserted ruin, lying over a mile from the river, but is easily recognisable by the solitary grove of date palms which stands out as a landmark in the flat and treeless plain. Here the western desert approaches the water’s edge, but a little cultivation is carried on upon the foreshore and the large island in front of the town. The remains of five Dervish earthworks still exist upon the bank up-stream of the town, and another (masked) upon the island. One-and a half miles up-stream lies the former village of Gubat, the furthest point reached by the Desert Column in 1885.

Between Metemma and Wad Habashi the whole country appears to be deserted, and there is a complete absence of life. At one point a series of honey-combed cliffs approaches the river, and runs parallel with it for some 5 miles.

[Sidenote: Wad Habashi.]

Wad Habashi (left bank), 42 miles from Shendi, was the starting point of the 1898 Omdurman Expedition. The soil here is excellent, and the land must once have been cultivated, as traces of the old water-courses are still visible. It is now covered with a dense growth of acacia jungle and halfa grass, which stretches in a thick belt for some 2 miles from the Nile.

[Sidenote: Sixth Cataract.]

About ½ mile inland a large and deep canal runs parallel to the river. This whole tract is entirely deserted, and, from its appearance, it seems probable that it was thrown out of cultivation prior to the rebellion of 1884. Four miles south of Wad Habashi is the boundary between the provinces of Berber and Khartoum, the limits being marked by the isolated granite hill on the east bank, known by the name of “Hagar El Asal.” From this point, the reefs forming the tail of the Shabluka Cataract begin, and navigation at low water becomes impossible for steamers.[29] Although the actual cataract, or rapid, is only some 12 miles in length, the bad water, above and below the pass, extends for a length of some 55 miles, i.e., to Wad Ramla, or to within 35 miles of Khartoum.

In summer, i.e., if the railway is not used, this portion of the journey has either to be made in native boats, or by camel portage round the cataract. The land route is shorter than that by the river, being not more than 26 miles in length.

[Sidenote: Wad Hamed.]

Five miles above Wad Habashi the former cavalry station of Wad Hamed is passed on the west bank. This place was selected as the headquarters of the Egyptian cavalry on account of the good fodder to be found in the vicinity. From here the difficulties of navigation increase; the river is split into numerous channels, and winds between picturesque islands, covered with a luxuriant growth of vegetation. Rocks and reefs appear above the water, and the swirls and eddies indicate the existence of many more below the surface. It was in this part of the rapid, on Mernat Island, that the “Bordein” steamer went aground on returning from Khartoum in 1885. Low serrated granite ridges confine the river on either side.

At the entrance of the Shabluka gorge, the channel takes a very sharp turn to the east, and the section is both deep and narrow—not being more than 200 yards in width anywhere, and in some places even less than this. The river runs between high granite hills for some 4 or 5 miles, with a very high velocity. The marks upon the rocks show that the highest flood level is not more than 7 feet above the water level of the river in March.

The northern entrance to the pass was guarded by five Dervish forts, now in ruins; four on the western and one on the eastern bank. These completely command the channel. On emerging from this gorge the river widens out, and the difficulties of navigation recommence. Reefs, rocks, and islands appear in all directions; the solitary peaks of Jebel Royan and Jebel Tyem stand out, one on either bank. At some 20 miles up-stream of the pass Wad Ramla is reached; from this point to Khartoum navigation, with care, is possible for steamers, even at lowest Nile. The country on both sides becomes more open, and many large islands are passed, most of which, notably that of Tamaniat, bear fine crops of dura. Large quantities of hay are also grown upon these islands and transported to Omdurman. The land on the east bank is good, and the cultivable strip extends for a considerable width, though covered as usual with scrub and rank grass. On the west bank the desert approaches the river closely.

OMDURMAN, KHARTOUM NORTH, AND KHARTOUM.

[Sidenote: Omdurman.]

At 198 miles from the Atbara, the town of OMDURMAN is reached—the long low ridge of the Kereri hills to the north marking the scene of the battle in 1898. This town covers a large area, being some 5½ miles in length by 1 to 1½ miles in breadth. Its eastern frontage follows the river bank throughout. Two or three broad streets traverse it, but, with these exceptions, the houses are separated one from another by a network of twisting lanes. Some of the principal remaining Dervish houses, notably those of the Khalifa and Yagub, are spacious and well built. Ebony is much used in the roofs, and where the span is great, iron girders are inserted to support the roofing.

The “Beit El Amana,” or Dervish storehouse, covers a large area. Here are the old powder magazines and stores of a most miscellaneous description. The open-air mosque is simply a large inclosure, and within the “Sur,” or great wall, is packed a rabbit-warren of buildings, with narrow and winding streets. The entire town was, during the Dervish occupation, full of old cess-pits; these being merely deep holes sunk in the desert, and open to the air. These pits were probably largely responsible for the disease for which Omdurman attained such an evil reputation (Cerebrospinal meningitis), but which has now practically disappeared. The Mahdi’s tomb and Khalifa’s house, the latter still in good repair, are objects of interest for the tourist (vide pp. 266 and 252 respectively).

The town lies in a direct line 3 miles from Khartoum—but by water another mile, some 40 minutes by steamer. Very many of the houses are now deserted, but the population still numbers some 46,000. It lies on good gravel soil, and comprises, besides the old Dervish buildings above-mentioned, barracks for the garrison, which consists of 2 battalions infantry and 2 maxims. There is a large market (Suk), where a considerable trade in gum and other produce is carried on. On the sloping banks a large boat traffic is at work. Steamers and ferry boats connect the town with Khartoum. It is the residence of the sub-Governor of Khartoum Province who resides in a house built in the late Khalifa’s enclosure.

[Sidenote: Khartoum North (Halfaya).]

KHARTOUM NORTH (lately Halfaya) is the terminus of the railway from Halfa, and lies opposite to Khartoum, on the right bank of the Blue Nile. It includes storehouses, workshops, the headquarters and the dockyard of the Steamers and Boats Department, barracks for an Egyptian garrison, consisting of infantry and artillery, Custom-house, etc., etc. Population about 2,000. A steam chain ferry, running every half-hour, connects it with Khartoum.

[Sidenote: Khartoum. Principal towns.]

KHARTOUM, including the towns of Khartoum North (late Halfaya) and Omdurman, together with a little hinterland (vide App. G.), forms a Province by itself. It is once again the capital of the Sudan and the seat of Government, though Omdurman still is, and Khartoum North will probably become in a few years, the principal trade centre.

Khartoum (meaning elephant’s trunk—with reference to the point of land jutting out between the two Niles) is a rapidly growing town, on the left bank of the Blue Nile, just before it joins the White Nile, and is built on the site of the old town of the same name, which was so gallantly held by Gordon and destroyed by the Dervishes in 1885. Its population is now 8,500 souls, and is gradually increasing. The soil is alluvial; bank of Blue Nile about 30 feet above the river at low Nile. In 1898 the old town was found entirely deserted and in ruins.

The main buildings are the Palace (built in 1899), the seat of the Governor-General; the Government Buildings (including the local War Office and the Offices of the Sudan Government); the Nuzl or Government store, the Post and Telegraph buildings, the Mosque, the Department of Works, the Mudiria (Governor’s office), branches of the National Bank and the Bank of Egypt, the Gordon College, the British barracks (holding one battalion of British troops), houses of the chief officials, and a small town of well-built mud-brick and stone houses (including a market square, landing place, a good European hotel, club, brick kilns, Zoological Gardens, etc., etc.), which is daily increasing in size.

[Sidenote: Barracks.]

At intervals along the line of the old entrenchments from east to west are the barracks occupied by the Egyptian Army which are named after Ismail, Tewfik, and Abbas Pashas.

Outside these lines are villages of mud-built and grass-roofed houses of various Sudanese tribes, whose members are employed mostly in building and in other pursuits. (Vide also Chap. V.)

Higher up the Blue Nile at Buri are the Gordon College and British barracks.

[Sidenote: Town, etc.]

The town is symmetrically laid out with wide avenues planted with shady trees, and the class of buildings erected must be in strict conformity with the standard fixed for each particular quarter.

The public gardens and “Zoo” are situated at the west end of the town; these, especially the latter, have only as yet reached an embryo stage.

[Sidenote: Garrison.]

The normal garrison of Khartoum consists of one battalion of British Infantry, relieved annually in October, and three battalions of Infantry of the Egyptian Army, as well as Cavalry and Artillery. (Vide p. 3.)

[Sidenote: Market.]

The market at Khartoum is poor and more expensive than that at Omdurman, which is much larger and better. Meat is usually PT.3 per oke (2¾ lbs.) and dura varies from PT.25 to PT.90 per ardeb (300 lbs.) according to the season and the year.

Building and fire-wood have to be brought long distances from up the Blue and White Niles, and are consequently both expensive.

Labour is scarce and difficult to obtain owing to the many buildings, etc., at present under construction.

[Sidenote: Rainfall.]

The rainfall is very variable but that of an average year is very slight;[30] rain seldom falls on more than 10 to 15 days in the year, but when it does it is generally in heavy thunderstorms, which occur at intervals from June to October, and are usually preceded by duststorms, very similar to those at Kassala. In some years heavy storms occur as early as May.

[Sidenote: Climate.]

The climate is comparatively good all the year round, though in August, September, and October, and occasionally at other seasons, a certain amount of fever is prevalent.[31] Khartoum is 1,253 feet above the Mediterranean.

The hottest month, according to the monthly average maximum temperatures recorded for 1901, is April (110·66° Fahr.), and the coolest January (88·34° Fahr.). April, May and June are here, as elsewhere, as a rule, throughout the Sudan, usually the three hottest months of the year. Vide also p. 12.

The highest temperature recorded in 1901 was in July (116·6° Fahr.), and the lowest (51·8°) in December.

The wind blows from the north almost continuously from November to April, after which it varies considerably, and finally settles down in May or June to blow pretty consistently from the south until the end of October or beginning of November.

[Sidenote: Posts and telegraphs.]

There is a bi-weekly mail to and from the north, weekly to and from El Obeid, Wad Medani, Goz Abu Guma, and intermediate stations on the White Nile, fortnightly to Kodok, and monthly to stations on the Upper Nile and Bahr El Ghazal.

Telegraphic communication with the following and intermediate stations: Cairo, Dongola, Merowe, Suakin, Massaua viâ Kassala, Gedaref, Gallabat, Roseires, Renk, Kodok, Taufikia and El Obeid. Telegrams to Addis Abbaba can be sent viâ Kassala and Asmara. Vide also p. 219.

[Sidenote: Ferries, etc.]

A Government ferry keeps up communication with Omdurman, and a steamer runs twice daily to and from Omdurman and Khartoum North, calling at Khartoum. There is also, as before mentioned, a steam ferry from Khartoum to Khartoum North and several of the native boat ferries.

The suburbs of these three towns include an additional population of 11,000 souls.

Recapitulatory table of distances by river in section:—

Merowe to Khartoum.

-------------------------------+------------------+------------------- | Intermediate. | From Merowe. +------+-----------+------+------------ |Miles.|Kilometres.|Miles.|Kilometres. -------------------------------+------+-----------+------+------------ Merowe | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | | | | Foot of 4th Cataract | 9 | 14 | 9 | 14 | | | | Head „ „ | 77 | 124 | 86 | 138 | | | | Abu Hamed | 62 | 100 | 148 | 238 | | | | El Bagara Rapid | 55 | 88 | 203 | 327 | | | | Foot of 5th Cataract | 24 | 38 | 227 | 364 | | | | Head „ „ | 2 | 3 | 229 | 367 | | | | Berber | 30 | 48 | 259 | 416 | | | | Mouth of Atbara | 20 | 32 | 279 | 447 | | | | Shendi | 86 | 138 | 365 | 585 | | | | Metemma | 4 | 6 | 369 | 592 | | | | Foot of 6th Cataract | 54 | 87 | 423 | 678 | | | | Head „ „ | 12 | 19 | 435 | 697 | | | | Omdurman | 41 | 66 | 476 | 764 | | | | Khartoum junction of Niles | 3 | 5 | 479 | 771 -------------------------------+------+-----------+------+------------

SECTION (3).—KHARTOUM TO LAKE NO.

[Kms.: Kilometres. I.: Intermediate. F.O.: From Omdurman.]

----------+-----------+--------------+---------------+---------------- | Miles. | | | Place. | Kms. | Left Bank. | River and | Right Bank. +--+--------+ | General. | |I.|F.O.[32]| | | ----------+--+--------+--------------+---------------+---------------- Omdurman | | |On the W. |In the first 15| | | |bank, after |miles up stream| | | |getting clear |of Khartoum the| | | |of the houses |country on | | | |of Omdurman, a|either side is | | | |hard, sandy |low, flat, and | | | |track is |treeless; | | | |followed |cultivation is | | | |skirting the |carried out on | | | |edge of the |the mud flats, | | | |cultivation |and on the | | | | |islands, which | | | | |appear as the | | | | |water falls. | | | | |The water | | | | |channel is | | | | |fully 2 miles | | | | |wide in this | | | | |reach. It is | | | | |very shallow, | | | | |and landing is | | | | |almost | | | | |impossible on | | | | |account of the | | | | |shelving banks.| | | | |On these last, | | | | |as the water | | | | |falls, a crop | | | | |of grass | | | | |springs up, | | | | |which affords | | | | |grazing to | | | | |large flocks of| | | | |cattle and | | | | |sheep. Further | | | | |up stream the | | | | |channel gets | | | | |narrower, but | | | | |it is still | | | | |over a mile in | | | | |width. Both | | | | |banks are low | | | | |and fringed | | | | |with thin and | | | | |low thorny | | | | |jungle, and | | | | |except for the | | | | |isolated hills | | | | |of Jebel Auli | | | | |and Jebel Gurun| | | | |the country is | | | | |a dead flat. On| | | | |leaving | | | | |Omdurman the | | | | |water channel | | | | |at once opens | | | | |out, at high | | | | |Nile, to 2 or 3| | | | |miles, course | | | | |for steamer | | | | |close to R. | | | | |bank | | | | | | | | |Left bank low,| |Right bank; | | |sandy, some | |several | | |scrub, and | |villages, low, | | |further on | |sandy, or swampy | | |mimosa woods | |bank. | | |extending to | | | | |river | | | | | | | Kalakla |8 | 8 | | |Road from | | | | |Khartoum passes | | | | |through village | | | | |Kalakla in large | | | | |clump of trees | | | | |and then | | | | |continues on | | | | |open desert sand | | | | |about 2 miles | | | | |from river; very | | | | |good going. | | | | | Sheikh |3 | 11 | | |Sheikh Salim or Salim | | | | |Wad Um Meriam. | | | | | | | | | |Village with | | | | |high tomb in it. | | | | |Road about 2 | | | | |miles from | | | | |river. After | | | | |this it enters | | | | |some low | | | | |sandhills with | | | | |large clump of | | | | |trees on river | | | | |side about ½ | | | | |mile off. The | | | | |first open scrub | | | | |begins, which | | | | |thickens as it | | | | |approaches the | | | | |river. | | | | | Gemmueiya |6 | 17 |Gemmueiya | | district | | |district.—A | | | | |long, | | | | |straggling | | | | |village of | | | | |that name and | | | | |tribe; track | | | | |passes on | | | | |desert side of| | | | |it some 3 | | | | |miles from | | | | |river; bank of| | | | |river | | | | |difficult of | | | | |access for | | | | |watering owing| | | | |to mud; some | | | | |bush and | | | | |trees; low | | | | |volcanic range| | | | |to W. Well | | | | |passed on | | | | |right just | | | | |before | | | | |reaching | | | | |village 30 | | | | |feet deep, 7 | | | | |feet diameter | | | | |water good. A | | | | |small tukl | | | | |village just | | | | |E. of hill and| | | | |same name. | | | | |Track as | | | | |before. | | | | | | | Um Arda |3 | 20 | | |Scrub gets | | | | |thicker on R. | | | | |bank. | | | | | | | | |Low flat | | | | |island. About 9| | | | |miles long, | | | | |trees S. end. | | | | |Island banks | | | | |inhabited by | | | | |Jaalin and | | | | |Hassania. | | | | | | Haneik |7 | 27 | |S. end of El | | | | |Arda island. | | | | | | Jebel Auli|1 |28 45 |Track | |Road runs round | | |unchanged, | |E. of Jebel | | |sparse bush on| |Auli, a steep | | |either flank; | |bare volcanic | | |good camping | |rock about 100 | | |ground (at low| |feet high. Good | | |Nile) and | |camping ground | | |watering place| |for a brigade or | | | | |less under the | | | | |mountain. | | | | |Another track | | | | |leads S.E. from | | | | |here. | | | | | Gar El |2 | 30 | | |Road runs ½ to ¾ Nabi | | | | |mile from river | | | | |through open | | | | |bush to Gar El | | | | |Nabi; village | | | | |mostly | | | | |destroyed. | | | | | Jebel |2 | 32 |Jebel Mendera | |Bank sandy. Mandara | | |or Mandara. | | | | |Well defined | | | | |table hill 2 | | | | |miles from L. | | | | |bank, road | | | | |passes spur of| | | | |it. Bank | | | | |swampy | | | | | | | Wad El |2 | 34 |Village to |Water channel 3|Road crossed by Kereil | | |west of track |miles broad at |small khors and | | | |high Nile; keep|in places by | | | |to right bank |cultivation in | | | | |zeribas. River | | | | |invisible from | | | | |it. | | | | | Mohammedia|1 | 35 | |Many small |Village; also | | | |islands |called Wad El | | | | |Kereil. | | | | | Jebel |5 | 40 |Low hill. |Sand and swamp |Road runs Barima or | | |Watering place|alternate on |through sand Breima | | |1½ miles from |both banks with|hills ½ mile (Wad | | |track. Latter |trees growing |from river and Belal) | | |crosses khors |into the water.|then closes to | | |at intervals |Rocks appear at|river at Wad | | |along route; |low Nile to W. |Belal; good | | |good, some |of channel just|watering place | | |bush and |before reaching|and wood station | | |trees, and |the Jebel |for steamers. | | |sand dunes | | | | | | | Abu Hagar |12|52 82 |Dense scrub |Water channel | | | |just before |1¾ miles. | | | |reaching El | | | | |Hagar or Abu | | | | |Hagar. Good | | | | |camping ground| | | | |¼ mile to W. | | | | |in desert. | | | | |Watering place| | | | |somewhat | | | | |difficult of | | | | |access at | | | | |river; pools | | | | |near desert | | | | |after high | | | | |Nile. For 2 | | | | |miles track | | | | |continues | | | | |good, then | | | | |becomes a | | | | |single camel | | | | |track, | | | | |necessitating | | | | |marching in | | | | |file through | | | | |very thick | | | | |bush. The | | | | |track to Homra| | | | |(80 miles) and| | | | |El Obeid | | | | |gradually | | | | |branches off | | | | |S.W. from the | | | | |river track | | | | | | | El Geteina|3 |55 88 | | |Large village | | | | |divided into 2 | | | | |parts, clean, | | | | |good market, | | | | |some “Shaduf” | | | | |cultivation. | | | | |Headquarters of | | | | |the Geteina | | | | |district. P.T.O. | | | | |Country flat; | | | | |Danagla Arabs. | | | | |Road runs | | | | |through village | | | | |here about 200 | | | | |yards from | | | | |river. Good | | | | |going, chiefly | | | | |through sand | | | | |dunes and | | | | |scattered bush. | | | | | Salahia |4 | 59 |El Salahia |South of this |E. bank open, | | |district. |thick thorn |high, and sandy. | | |Swamp or |bush commences.|Sand hills come | | |cracked mud |From here to El|down to the | | |near river |Dueim (66 |water’s edge. | | |bank. Much |miles) the same| | | |dura in Wadi |scenery | | | |Sadik |continues. | | | | |Cultivation is | | | | |limited to the | | | | |islands and | | | | |foreshores. As | | | | |the water | | | | |falls, large | | | | |mud flats in | | | | |the centre of | | | | |the river | | | | |appear. To | | | | |these the | | | | |people transfer| | | | |their cattle | | | | |and belongings,| | | | |build “tukls” | | | | |and set up | | | | |shadufs. The | | | | |soil on these | | | | |flats is good, | | | | |and rich crops | | | | |are produced. | | | | |As the majority| | | | |of these | | | | |islands are not| | | | |exposed before | | | | |the month of | | | | |February, | | | | |artificial | | | | |irrigation for | | | | |the crops is | | | | |necessary. | | | | |These quickly | | | | |ripen under the| | | | |hot sun, and | | | | |are, as a rule,| | | | |harvested in | | | | |May. The river | | | | |varies in width| | | | |from 700 to | | | | |2,000 yards. | | | | |The west bank | | | | |throughout this| | | | |reach is | | | | |fringed with | | | | |acacias, and, | | | | |at high Nile, | | | | |is flooded for | | | | |a long distance| | | | |as the left | | | | |bank is very | | | | |low and | | | | |shelving | | | | | | Dazira and|4 | 63 |Old salt | | El | | |works, a mile | | Debeiker | | |E. of track. | | | | | | | El Alaga |7 | 70 |Good camping |El Alaga | | | |ground and |district both | | | |watering |banks. | | | |place. For 3 | | | | |miles track | | | | |leads through | | | | |dura | | | | |cultivation, | | | | |then good road| | | | |near river | | | | |bank | | | | | | | El Gerazi |6 | 76 | |Water channel 2|Low sand hills or Garrasa| | | |to 3 miles |with Danagla | | | |broad for next |village of | | | |40 miles. Vast |Gerazi to S. of | | | |quantities of |them. People | | | |water birds of |poor, no market. | | | |all sorts |Good meshra. | | | |inhabit the |Road runs from | | | |Nile almost |here through 3 | | | |from Khartoum |or 4 miles of | | | |upwards, and |dura land ½ to ¼ | | | |large numbers |mile from river, | | | |of crocodiles |then along sand | | | |are visible, |hills near river | | | |one or more on |to Wad Shalai. | | | |nearly every | | | | |mud bank | | | | | | Wad Shalai|6 |82 132| | |Village of | | | | |conical thatched | | | | |houses; banks | | | | |become drier; | | | | |series of | | | | |villages from | | | | |here along right | | | | |bank at 2 to 5 | | | | |miles interval. | | | | |Road runs for | | | | |about 3½ miles | | | | |through sand | | | | |dunes close to | | | | |river, then | | | | |gradually leaves | | | | |river, and | | | | |passes through | | | | |dura ground | | | | |about 1½ miles | | | | |from it. | | | | | Wad Nimr |2 | 84 |A long | | | | |straggling | | | | |village and | | | | |name of the | | | | |district. Good| | | | |watering place| | | | |5 miles S., | | | | |the desert | | | | |road joins the| | | | |river road. | | | | |Track runs | | | | |some way from | | | | |the river | | | | |skirting the | | | | |edge of the | | | | |cultivation. | | | | | | | Wad El |5 | 89 | | |Large village on Zaki | | | | |top of some sand | | | | |hills, pop. 400 | | | | |to 500. From | | | | |here 3 miles | | | | |takes one to a | | | | |few houses about | | | | |2 miles from the | | | | |river on some | | | | |sand hills | | | | |called Sayif, | | | | |one of three | | | | |villages of that | | | | |name. Road goes | | | | |on over cotton | | | | |soil for 4 | | | | |miles, then | | | | |crosses sand | | | | |hill ridge for | | | | |about 1 mile and | | | | |descends to a | | | | |plain close to | | | | |river where | | | | |another village, | | | | |also called | | | | |Sayif, is seen 2 | | | | |miles inland. | | | | | El Rahawat|1 | 90 |On left bank |Commencement of| | | |nearly |Tura El Khadra | | | |opposite Wad |(Green Canal) | | | |El Zaki is El |district. | | | |Rahawat | | | | |watering | | | | |place, good | | | | |camping | | | | |ground. | | | | |Leaving this | | | | |village the | | | | |track on | | | | |desert side of| | | | |the | | | | |cultivation | | | | |should be | | | | |followed. | | | | |Three miles on| | | | |sand dunes are| | | | |passed on R., | | | | |and behind | | | | |them is the | | | | |canal, some 20| | | | |miles long, | | | | |500 yards | | | | |broad and 6 | | | | |feet deep. | | | | |(Feb’y.) | | | | | | | Sayif |5 | 95 | | |Good meshra and | | | | |ferry to other | | | | |bank; good | | | | |building and | | | | |cultivation. The | | | | |road from here | | | | |to Dabasi Meshra | | | | |is over cotton | | | | |soil with low | | | | |scrub on river | | | | |side. | | | | | Tura El |5 | 100 |Four miles | |Zif village. Suk and | | |from river | |Hashaba a mile Zif | | | | |to the E. | | | | | Dabasi |6 | 106 | | |Khalifa had big Meshra, or| | | | |grain depôt Dobasi | | | | |here, ruins of | | | | |which can still | | | | |be seen. Ferry. | | | | |Road runs | | | | |through sand | | | | |hills ½ mile | | | | |from river to | | | | |Dabasi. | | | | | Dabasi |1½| 107½ |Telegraph line| |Fair-sized | | 173 |to El Obeid | |village, 400 to | | |branches off | |500 inhabitants | | |here from | |on road. From | | |Dueim line at | |Dabasi to | | |Minedrib | |Shabasha road | | | | |remains close to | | | | |bank, thence for | | | | |next 10 miles 1 | | | | |to 1½ miles | | | | |distant. | | | | | Amara and |1½| 109 |About 10 miles|Island Manir |Amara village Jebel | | 175 |west of left | |(or Um Arda). Arashkol | | |bank is the |Long, flat, | | | |high rugged |well-wooded | | | |mass of Jebel |island opposite| | | |Arashkol, with|Amara. | | | |several | | | | |distinct | | | | |peaks. | | | | |Volcanic. | | | | |Chief peak | | | | |named J. Abd | | | | |el Daim | | | | | | | Shabasha |3 | 112 |Good camping |A ferry | | | |ground and |connects | | | |excellent |Shabasha El | | | |watering |Gharb with | | | |place. Village|Shabasha El | | | |under spur |Sharg (on the | | | |from main mass|east of the | | | |of Jebel |river). | | | |Arashkol. | | | | |Track | | | | |continues | | | | |through | | | | |cultivation. | | | | |Good going | | | | | | | Ghobeisha |9 | 121 | | |The road closes | | | | |to river at | | | | |Meshra. | | | | |Ghobeisha | | | | |village. Good | | | | |place for camp | | | | |and watering. | | | | |Road crosses | | | | |open plain with | | | | |high grass; | | | | |cotton soil; | | | | |probably under | | | | |water at high | | | | |Nile (?) | | | | | El Dueim |4 | 125 |Town of |Channel narrows|Road opposite | | 201 |fluctuating |to 1 mile or |Dueim leads to | | |population of |less |Maatuk, Managil, | | |about 7,000 | |and Wad Medani. | | |inhabitants; | | | | |disembarking | | | | |place for El | | | | |Obeid. Head | | | | |Quarters of | | | | |the White Nile| | | | |Province and | | | | |residence of | | | | |the Governor. | | | | |El Dueim is | | | | |developing | | | | |into an | | | | |important | | | | |trade centre; | | | | |large market; | | | | |principal mart| | | | |for export | | | | |Kordofan gum. | | | | |Substantial | | | | |Government | | | | |offices. | | | | |Starting point| | | | |of Sudan | | | | |transport | | | | |service for El| | | | |Obeid. The | | | | |plain all | | | | |round is open | | | | |and the | | | | |locality is | | | | |fairly | | | | |healthy. Up- | | | | |stream from El| | | | |Dueim some | | | | |fine strips of| | | | |cultivation | | | | |occur along | | | | |the foreshore.| | | | |Behind this | | | | |belt grows a | | | | |fringe of | | | | |acacias, and | | | | |beyond lies a | |The east bank is | | |rolling | |covered with low | | |steppe. Action| |bush and a | | |here 23.8.83; | |little | | |small Egyptian| |cultivation. | | |garrison | |Track leads N.E. | | |repulsed | |(20 miles) to | | |Mahdists. | |Maatuk. | | | | | Hassania |5 | 130 | |Island |Half a mile on Island (N.| | | |(sometimes |Meshra Ghayafa. end) | | | |under water) |Good camping | | | | |ground and | | | | |watering place; | | | | |sandhill near | | | | |Meshra. Sand | | | | |fairly thick; | | | | |cotton soil. | | | | | Denegila |5 | 135 | | |Village west of | | | | |road opposite | | | | |island of same | | | | |name, chief | | | | |village of which | | | | |is Mahbale. 1½ | | | | |miles further is | | | | |village of Abu | | | | |Gurun, north of | | | | |road where it | | | | |crosses track to | | | | |Um Saneita. Dura | | | | |crops in this | | | | |district. | | | | | Um Gar |3 | 138 |Um Gar |Um Gar Island. | | | |village. Good | | | | |watering place| | | | |and camping | | | | |ground. Track | | | | |leads 5 miles | | | | |to opposite | | | | |Kawa, through | | | | |bush and trees| | | | | | | Meshra El |5 | 143 | |Small floating |Thick bush close Hella | | | |pieces of |to river to | | | |sudd begin to|Meshra El Hella. | | | |appear |Road runs close | | | | |to river to | | | | |Kawa. | | | | | Kawa |3 | 146 |Wad Abu Rul, | |Large village, | | 236 |opposite Kawa.| |500 inhabitants. | | |Thick bush and| | | | |trees on | |Residence of | | |banks. Gum | |British | | |depôt | |Inspector and | | |belonging to | |Mamur. Wooding | | |Kordofan | |station for | | |province. | |steamers. Post | | | | |and Telegraph Lakadawia |— | — | |Wooded island |Office. Road | | | |close by, with |hence to Sennar. | | | |north end |Kawa is built on | | | |opposite, Kawa;|high land and | | | |about 4 miles |bush is open all | | | |long; richly |round it. | | | |cultivated with|Inhabitants | | | |a variety of |mixture Jaalin, | | | |crops, |Hassania, and | | | |comprising |Danagla. The | | | |wheat, barley, |houses are | | | |onions, lubia, |mostly round | | | |bamia, and |with thatched | | | |dukhn. Above |conical roofs. | | | |this the forest|Large market, | | | |belt covers |neat Government | | | |both banks of |offices. Boat | | | |the river, and |building has | | | |is often |been started; | | | |flooded for a |ferry. Track | | | |great distance |from here | | | |on either side |northwards (31 | | | | |miles) to | | | | |Ma’atuk. | | | | | | | | | |The road runs ½ | | | | |mile from river | | | | |through dura | | | | |cultivation, and | | | | |then over grassy | | | | |plains past | | | | |villages of Abu | | | | |Hindi and Fum | | | | |Omer to | | | | |Shaggara. | | | | | Meshra |8 | 154 | | |Meshra and Shaggara, | | | | |village close to Kenuz | | | | |river, thence | | | | |past Kenuz with | | | | |island opposite. | | | | |The road runs ¼ | | | | |to ½ mile from | | | | |river. Hassan | | | | |Allob on banks | | | | |with village | | | | |called Dabus | | | | |opposite, still | | | | |through dura | | | | |country to Nur | | | | |El Daim. | | | | | Hassan |2 | 156 |Village. | | Alob and | | | | | Dabus | | | | | | | | | | Nur El |3 | 159 | | |Large village Daeim | | | | |and police | | | | |station; 1 mile | | | | |distant from | | | | |river. | | | | | Khor Gusab|1 | 160 |Watering | | (?) | | |place. Road | | | | |now leads | | | | |through dense | | | | |bush; river | | | | |unapproachable| | | | |till Um Turan.| | | | | | | Sheikh’s |2 | 162 | | |Tomb of Sheikh Tomb | | | | |Nur El Taib; | | | | |three large | | | | |trees, ruined | | | | |mud and brick | | | | |buildings and | | | | |some flags mark | | | | |it. Road bends | | | | |due south to | | | | |Shawal. | | | | | Shawal, |1 | 163 |Abu Lahm at |North end of |Village right. Abu Lahm, | | 262 |point of curve|Aba Island. |Three and Aba | | | |Take western |conspicuous Island (N.| | | |channel. Island|single hills end) | | | |cultivated in |(Jebel Tuema?) | | | |places, some 27|about 20 miles | | | |miles in |south-east and a | | | |length, belt of|fourth peaked | | | |trees along |hill rather | | | |river’s edge, |south of these | | | |but interior |(Jebel Buyut?). | | | |only thinly |Country on right | | | |wooded. Higher |open bush, | | | |at south than |slightly | | | |at north end. |undulating, good | | | |Inhabited by a |sandy watering | | | |few Shilluks. |places on river. | | | |From this point| | | | |the character | | | | |of both banks | | | | |changes. The | | | | |sand dunes seen| | | | |lower down the | | | | |river have been| | | | |gradually | | | | |disappearing, | | | | |and black | | | | |cotton soil now| | | | |comes down to | | | | |the water’s | | | | |edge, which is | | | | |fringed at low | | | | |Nile by reeds, | | | | |and by bunches | | | | |of sudd which | | | | |have floated | | | | |down from the | | | | |Bahr El Jebel. | | | | |Beyond the | | | | |fringe of are | | | | |what are at | | | | |high Nile | | | | |grassy swamps, | | | | |but at low Nile| | | | |are dry and | | | | |excellent | | | | |grazing | | | | |grounds. Behind| | | | |this swampy | | | | |ground is a | | | | |belt of fine | | | | |sant and other | | | | |acacias. From | | | | |here to | | | | |Jebelein at low| | | | |Nile thousands | | | | |of sheep and | | | | |goats and herds| | | | |of cattle are | | | | |seen grazing on| | | | |either bank. | | | | |These belong to| | | | |the tribes | | | | |living inland, | | | | |where at this | | | | |time of year | | | | |water and | | | | |grazing is | | | | |scarce. | | | | | | Um Turan |2 | 165 |Watering | | (?) | | |place. Road | | | | |improves; good| | | | |going along | | | | |bank till | | | | |Fachi Shoya. | | | | | | | Malaha |1 | 166 | | |Meshra Malaha | | | | |and village | | | | |Malaha; salt | | | | |works. Road | | | | |enters scrub; | | | | |bush country to | | | | |Marabia. | | | | | Marabia |8 | 174 | | |Action 29.4.83; | | | | |Hicks Pasha | | | | |defeated | | | | |Dervishes. Good | | | | |camping place on | | | | |high ground, | | | | |where there are | | | | |ruins of an old | | | | |fort and brick | | | | |buildings. Road | | | | |leaves river, | | | | |crosses a grassy | | | | |plain, probably | | | | |under water at | | | | |high Nile, past | | | | |village Torba | | | | |(186) east of | | | | |road, and turns | | | | |towards river. | | | | | Mahdi’s |1 | 175 | |Large tree on | Place | | | |river bank; | | | | |ruins of mud | | | | |houses. | | | | | | Fachi |1 | 176 |Starting point|The banks on | Shoya | | 283 |for Sherkeila |both sides now | | | |and South |begin to be | | | |Kordofan. |fringed with | | | |Country open. |reeds, the | | | |Good camping |strip extending| | | |and watering |gradually in | | | |place. Village|width from a | | | |deserted. Base|few yards to | | | |of two |400 or 500 | | | |expeditions in|yards. Behind | | | |1899. |this are fine | | | | |sant trees, | | | | |etc. | | | | | | Hesai |2 | 178 |Thick trees |Between Aba | Island | | |and bush, up |Island and | | | |to 1½ miles in|right bank. | | | |width, |Mangara village| | | |commence |on Aba Island. | | | | | | El Alob |7 | 185 |Village; track| | | | |leads S.W. to | | | | |Gedid (33 | | | | |miles). | | | | | | | Zeinuba |6 | 191 | |El Khema |“Manjera” (boat and Aba | | | |district both |yard) of Zeinuba Island (S.| | | |banks. Shilluk |under clump of end) | | | |village at |large trees. | | | |south end of | | | | |Aba Island. | | | | | | Goz Abu |1 | 192 |Track leads |Wurelat Island,|Headquarters of Guma and | | 309 |S.W. (32 |opposite Goz |district of that Wurelat | | |miles) to |Abu Guma. Large|name. Telegraph Island | | |Gedid |grass islands |and Post Office. | | | |make their |The telegraph | | |Gum collecting|appearance in |line from Sennar | | |station on |the river |(Blue Nile) | | |L.B. |(January). The |across the | | | |eastern channel|Gezira reaches | | | |opposite Goz |the White Nile | | | |Abu Guma is |here and | | | |shallow, and |continues | | | |dries up at low|southwards. East | | | |Nile, when a |bank heavy grass | | | |landing has to |with a few | | | |be effected |acacias. The | | | |either 2 miles |east channel | | | |above the town |here is some 500 | | | |or on the west |yards wide. The | | | |bank of the |north and south | | | |island opposite|road runs ½ to 1 | | | |the town. |mile from river. | | | | |Line of villages | | | | |on high ground | | | | |4½ miles from | | | | |river. Good | | | | |grazing; 400 | | | | |inhabitants; | | | | |Tukls. Little | | | | |trade. Greek | | | | |merchants have | | | | |collecting | | | | |station during | | | | |the gum season | | | | |on the left | | | | |bank, which | | | | |belongs to | | | | |Kordofan. | | | | | El Khema |7 | 199 | | |Road joins river | | | | |at El Khema | | | | |Police Post. | | | | |Many birds and | | | | |monkeys. | | | | | Abbassia |1 | 200 | | |Colony of old Gedida | | 322 | | |Sudanese (Black | | | | |soldiers. East Colony) | | | | |bank reed strip | | | | |thinner than | | | | |west. | | | | | Abu Zeid |8 | 208 |Abu Zeid |Passage only |Police Post, | | 333 |village. Bank |practicable at |east bank. | | |continues |low water. The |Scattered trees | | |fringed by |Abu Zeid ford |and bush, 1 to | | |several |is a most |1½ miles in | | |hundred yards |serious |width, commence | | |of reeds. |obstacle to |again. | | |Baggara Selim |navigation. At | | | |country |this point, for| | | |begins; |a length of | | | |sparsely |some 4 miles, | | | |inhabited, |the river | | | |with thick |spreads out in | | | |bush and trees|a broad and | | | |behind. Good |extremely | | | |game country |shallow sheet, | | | |begins |at low Nile | | | | |about 1,200 | | | | |yards in width.| | | | |Upon the bed, | | | | |masses of what | | | | |are called | | | | |“fresh-water | | | | |oysters” | | | | |collect. The | | | | |broken shells | | | | |form, with a | | | | |shingle, a kind| | | | |of | | | | |“conglomerate,”| | | | |almost as hard | | | | |as rock, and | | | | |which nothing | | | | |but a specially| | | | |adapted dredger| | | | |could remove. | | | | |In March and | | | | |April, in very | | | | |low years, the | | | | |depth of water | | | | |here is in | | | | |places not more| | | | |than 1 foot 5 | | | | |inches to 1 | | | | |foot 8 inches. | | | | |The forest is | | | | |very thick on | | | | |both shores, | | | | |and on the west| | | | |a wide belt of | | | | |swamp and grass| | | | |renders landing| | | | |very difficult.| | | | |The papyrus | | | | |reed is first | | | | |seen at this | | | | |place, and | | | | |occasional | | | | |ambach. | | | | |Floating | | | | |patches of | | | | |sudd are met | | | | |with in the | | | | |channel, as | | | | |well as many | | | | |permanent large| | | | |grass islands, | | | | |the largest | | | | |being those of | | | | |Nuago and | | | | |Musran. | | | | |Hippopotami | | | | |begin to appear| | | | |in considerable| | | | |numbers | | | | | | Masran |1 | 209 | |North end of |Road keeps close Island (N.| | | |island. East |to river bank. end) | | | |channel often | | | | |much blocked | | | | |with sudd; | | | | |only a narrow | | | | |passage of 50 | | | | |yards being | | | | |visible at | | | | |times. Island | | | | |thickly wooded | | | | | | Danko |4 | 213 | | |Shilluk village. Shush | | | | | | | | | | Azalet |9 | 221 | |Rocks across | Rocks | | | |main western | | | | |channel. | | | | |Dangerous at | | | | |low Nile. | | | | | | Danko |6 | 227 | |Shilluk village| Selim | | | |on Masran | | | | |Island. Rocks | | | | |in middle of | | | | |stream; | | | | |dangerous to | | | | |navigation, | | | | |especially at | | | | |night. Here the| | | | |reef runs right| | | | |across the | | | | |river channel, | | | | |and the only | | | | |method of | | | | |passing safely | | | | |at low water is| | | | |to steer a | | | | |course like the| | | | |letter S. Many | | | | |of the rocks | | | | |are below the | | | | |water surface, | | | | |and their | | | | |presence is | | | | |only indicated | | | | |by the ripples | | | | |which they | | | | |cause. | | | | | | Meshra |4 | 231 | | |Meshra to Masran Zubeid | | | | |Island. Hence | | | | |road winds | | | | |through thick | | | | |scrub, with | | | | |patches of open | | | | |country, to the | | | | |ford at | | | | |Jebelein. | | | | | Masran |5 | 236 | |Shilluk village| Island (S.| | | |at southern | end) | | | |point. Careful | | | | |navigation | | | | |necessary | | | | | | Jebelein |2 | 238 |Two roads lead|River about 500|The boundary | | 383 |north- |yards wide; |between the | | |westwards from|rocks showing |White Nile and | | |opposite |in places. Up- |Upper Nile | | |Jebelein to |stream of |Provinces | | |Gedid, etc. |Jebelein, for |belonging itself | | |Baggara Selim |many miles, the|to the Upper | | |live on left |country is most|Nile (Kodok) | | |bank |dreary and |Province. | | | |monotonous. A |Jebelein is | | | |fringe of |easily | | | |forest on |recognisable by | | | |either bank |the five | | | |marks the |peculiarly- | | | |higher land. |shaped granite | | | |Between this |peaks which rise | | | |the river winds|abruptly from | | | |through reedy |the plain on the | | | |islands, masses|eastern shore. | | | |of swamp grass |The highest of | | | |and floating |these peaks is | | | |weed. A series |perhaps 600 | | | |of islands now |feet. The | | | |begins. Dinka |nearest is 1 | | | |country right. |mile from the | | | | |river, and the | | | | |farthest 3 | | | | |miles. They form | | | | |an amphitheatre | | | | |of rocky hills; | | | | |two distinct | | | | |masses, with a | | | | |third hill to | | | | |the east of the | | | | |northern mass. | | | | |Grassy plain | | | | |between north | | | | |and south | | | | |ridges. Village | | | | |on east of south | | | | |ridge. The | | | | |forest on the | | | | |east bank is | | | | |about a quarter | | | | |of a mile in | | | | |width, and | | | | |extremely thick. | | | | |Behind it | | | | |stretches an | | | | |endless expanse | | | | |of prickly | | | | |grass, some 3 | | | | |feet high, | | | | |interspersed | | | | |with clumps of | | | | |mimosas. Lions | | | | |and Tiang fairly | | | | |plentiful. The | | | | |soil is light | | | | |and friable, and | | | | |much of it must | | | | |be flooded | | | | |during the rainy | | | | |season. One or | | | | |two ravines | | | | |serve as drains | | | | |to this area. | | | | |The ruins of | | | | |Ahmed Fedil’s | | | | |“Deim” are still | | | | |visible here. | | | | |This tract once | | | | |formed part of | | | | |the Dinka | | | | |country, but is | | | | |now quite | | | | |uninhabited, | | | | |most of the | | | | |Dinkas having | | | | |migrated to the | | | | |south to escape | | | | |the raids of the | | | | |slave-traders. | | | | |At this point | | | | |the “serut” fly | | | | |makes its first | | | | |appearance, and | | | | |remains an | | | | |unwelcome guest | | | | |throughout the | | | | |journey to | | | | |Kodok. This | | | | |brown fly, which | | | | |is about the | | | | |size of a small | | | | |wasp, has a | | | | |sharp stab, and | | | | |if allowed to | | | | |settle speedily | | | | |draws blood. Not | | | | |poisonous. Road | | | | |200 to 400 yards | | | | |from river. | | | | |Massacre of | | | | |Egyptian troops | | | | |by Mahdists in | | | | |1882. | | | | | Meshra |3 | 241 | | |Meshra and Sherif | | | | |camping ground | | | | |good; name | | | | |applies to | | | | |country for next | | | | |2 miles. Road | | | | |runs through | | | | |thickish thorn | | | | |jungle; path | | | | |good. | | | | | Bulli |6 | 247 | |North end of |Path keeps close Island | | | |Bulli Island. |to east channel, | | | |Western channel|which is nearly | | | |100 yards |dry in April and | | | |broad; eastern |May. | | | |one bad. Narrow| | | | |island 100 to | | | | |200 yards wide,| | | | |covered with | | | | |grass and | | | | |rushes | | | | | | Debba[33] |12| 259 | |Western channel|Sheikh’s tomb. El Goda | | | |bad |Large range of | | | | |hills west. | | | | |Pointed peak | | | | |about 30 miles | | | | |east. Perhaps | | | | |Abu Gurud (?). | | | | | Gamus |17| 276 | |South end of | | | | |Bulli Island. | | | | |Western channel| | | | |about 80 yards | | | | |broad. | | | | | | Karshawal |2 | 278 | | |Small Selim | | | | |village, with | | | | |old camp inland | | | | |2 miles to | | | | |south-east. | | | | |Selim and Dinka | | | | |Meshra. | | | | | Agang |18| 296 | | |Selim and Dinka | | | | |villages about 3 | | | | |miles inland. | | | | | Renk |2 | 298 | |Thick forest on|Road closes to | | 479 | |both banks. |river. | | | |From Renk to |Headquarters of | | | |Ahmed Agha |Renk District. | | | |there is no |Government | | | |change in the |offices and | | | |monotony of the|residence of | | | |scenery. The |British | | | |west bank is |Inspector. Good | | | |very flat and |sandy meshra, | | | |low, and the |open ground for | | | |east bank is |camping large | | | |covered with |force. Telegraph | | | |thorn jungle, |and Post Office. | | | |plenty of trees|Inhabitants, | | | |and heavy grass|Dinkas and Selim | | | | |Arabs, who own | | | | |sheep, goats, | | | | |and the former | | | | |cattle. Thick | | | | |forest. | | | | |Mosquitoes very | | | | |troublesome here | | | | |after sunset. | | | | |Action here | | | | |15.9.98. Dervish | | | | |“deim” bombarded | | | | |and taken, and a | | | | |steamer | | | | |captured. Track | | | | |to Gule and | | | | |Roseires | | | | |branches off | | | | |here (vide | | | | |Vol. 2). | | | | | Khor |2 | 300 | |The river is |Road leads Deleib | | | |fringed with a |south-east to | | | |belt of reeds |Khor Deleib and | | | |on either bank,|runs along an | | | |varying from 10|eastern branch | | | |to 200 yards |of the Nile | | | |broad. Thick |named Gaza El | | | |forest both |Abiad. Village Warrit, or|10| 310 | |sides. Much |of Sheikh Bakhit Loingwin, | | | |bird life. |Niok (released and Dabba | | | |There is a ford|slave from Dungit | | | |across both |Cairo). South of | | | |channels here |here people | | | |(Ahmed Fedil |mostly Selim | | | |crossed in |Baggara, living | | | |1898), but it |in temporary | | | |is rarely |encampments: | | | |practicable |about 1 mile | | | |except at low |inland for | | | |Nile, and not |grazing. | | | |always even | | | | |then. Northern | | | | |end of Wad | | | | |Dakona Island; | | | | |take western | | | | |channel. A few | | | | |Shilluk | | | | |villages on | | | | |this island | | | | |formed by White| | | | |Nile and Khor | | | | |Gaza El Abiad. | | | | |This khor at | | | | |high Nile is | | | | |probably 300 to| | | | |600 yards wide,| | | | |but at low Nile| | | | |nowhere more | | | | |than 300 yards;| | | | |fordable nearly| | | | |everywhere. | | | | |Many wildfowl | | | | |on it | | | | | | Um Hedeida|10| 320 | |Khor decreases |Track follows | | | |till at Um |eastern bank of | | | |Hedeida water |khor. Country | | | |stagnant and in|covered with 3 | | | |small quantity |feet high grass | | | |(February). |where not burnt. | | | |Elephants drink|Scattered bush | | | |here regularly,|“Heglig” and | | | |but only at |“Hashab”; no | | | |night. They |cultivation. | | | |pass the day | | | | |about 20 miles |Water reappears | | | |inland in a |in khor. Selim | | | |forest of dense|encampments east | | | |kittr bush |of track. | | | |which the Arabs| | | | |call their | | | | |“beit” or | | | | |house. | | | | | | Leungtom |6 | 326 | |South of Wad |Meshra. Road (D), or | | | |Dakona Island |approaches Nile Domaia (or| | | | |for first time El Wat | | | | |since Renk. (A)) | | | | |About 1½ miles | | | | |inland are | | | | |villages of | | | | |Kolang El Wat | | | | |under Sheikh | | | | |Salem Banga | | | | |(also released | | | | |slave from | | | | |Cairo). Country | | | | |fairly open. | | | | |Track follows | | | | |east bank of a | | | | |khor. On west of | | | | |track is a | | | | |fringe of thick | | | | |“talh.” To the | | | | |east country is | | | | |fairly open. | | | | | Debba El |5 | 331 |Dom Palms on |Two islands, |Commencement of Zawia or | | |left bank as |western channel|Nabagaia Zawa | | |well as on |80 yards; |District. | | |right |shallow at low |Island. Swamp | | | |Nile |grass and trees. | | | | |First “dom” | | | | |palms are met | | | | |here. | | | | | Anok |4 | 335 | | |Village of | | | | |Agweim Dinkas | | | | |passed about ¾ | | | | |mile to east on | | | | |slight | | | | |elevation. Thick | | | | |“talh” bush on | | | | |either side of | | | | |track. Village | | | | |depends on river | | | | |for water. | | | | | | | | | |Tereiba or Allal | | | | |(D) district | | | | |commences. | | | | | Debba |9 | 344 | | |Shade and good Ibrahim | | | | |water in khor. Sharak | | | | |Good midday | | | | |camping ground. | | | | |Jebel Ahmed Agha | | | | |visible. From | | | | |here on bush | | | | |unpleasantly | | | | |thick. Elephants | | | | |and much game. | | | | | El Ragal |1 | 345 | | |Track branches (A) | | | | |off east to | | | | |Dinka village or Senagul |4 | 349 | | |district of Kash (D) | | | | |Kash (10 to 20 | | | | |miles from | | | | |river?). Bush | | | | |ceases to annoy. | | | | |Elephants drink | | | | |here. | | | | | Debba Abu |1 | 350 | | |Two main khors, Teiba | | | | |Sangeir (or Ran | | | | |(D)) and | | | | |Mesangeir (or | | | | |Balantega (D)), | | | | |from the | | | | |Abyssinian hills | | | | |near Kirin (?), | | | | |join the river | | | | |here. Difficult | | | | |to cross July to | | | | |November. | | | | | Meshra |2 | 352 |Meshra on left| | Meteima | | |bank. | | (Selim) | | | | | | | | | | Jebel |1 | 353 |Western | |A solitary hill, Ahmed Agha| | 568 |channel best; | |250 feet high (or Biba | | |70 yards. | |and 250 yards (D)) | | |Matmar | |from east to | | |district | |west along its | | |commences; | |crest; great | | |then Mohadan | |landmark; | | |Zeraf | |volcanic; a few | | | | |small trees to | | | | |summit; stands 2 | | | | |miles from the | | | | |bank. From its | | | | |summit is seen a | | | | |vast tract of | | | | |trees and grass | | | | |broken by khors | | | | |and swamps. J. | | | | |Ulu and Gerauit | | | | |visible 60-70 | | | | |miles to the | | | | |east. No break | | | | |in the level. | | | | |Much game. | | | | |Several Dinka | | | | |and Selim | | | | |villages in | | | | |neighbourhood, | | | | |but in rains the | | | | |Dinkas retire | | | | |inland, and the | | | | |Arabs to | | | | |districts north | | | | |of fly limit. | | | | |Dinka Sheikh | | | | |Jok. Many “dom” | | | | |palms around the | | | | |Jebel. Water is | | | | |obtainable from | | | | |Khor Biba. It is | | | | |1 mile east of | | | | |river, which | | | | |here bends | | | | |south-west. | | | | |About 22 miles | | | | |south-south-east | | | | |of the Jebel, on | | | | |the Khor | | | | |Mesangeir, lies | | | | |the village of | | | | |Akorwen in a | | | | |large grassy | | | | |plain. There is | | | | |a track up K. | | | | |Rau to Awitong | | | | |and several | | | | |other Dinka rain | | | | |villages. Thence | | | | |track goes to J. | | | | |Ulu and Gerauit, | | | | |thence to Kirin | | | | |or J. Jerok. | | | | | Edor |4 | 357 |Much game: |Shilluk village|Opposite this Gamoia. | | |buffalo, etc. |on north end of|island, for | | | |Gezira Wad |about 6 miles, | | | |Beiker |extends the | | | | |district of | | | | |Heglig or Tau. | | | | | Gamus |6 | 363 | |Shilluk village| | | | |on the island. | | | | |The sheikh, | | | | |after whom the | | | | |village is | | | | |named, is a | | | | |refugee from | | | | |Cairo. | | | | | | Dabba |1 | 364 | | |Opposite south Marbeit or| | | | |end of Wad Shakab | | | | |Beiker. A grand | | | | |game country. | | | | | Kwe |2 | 366 | | |A Dinka Farik. | | | | | Alumbal |1 | 367 | | |Sheikh Ajak’s | | | | |village. Country | | | | |round is fairly | | | | |open, scattered | | | | |“kittr” and | | | | |“naal” grass. | | | | |Both these | | | | |villages are | | | | |under Sheikh | | | | |Salem Banga of | | | | |El Wat. Track | | | | |south-east to | | | | |Akorwen, 22 | | | | |miles. | | | | | Meshra |1 | 368 |Meshra on left| |The meshra Zeraf | | |bank also | |extends for | | | | |about 2 miles, | | | | |the road skirts | | | | |the river and | | | | |crosses a wide | | | | |shallow khor | | | | |called a | | | | |“farlegh” or | | | | |“rigl” by the | | | | |Arabs. It is | | | | |said to come | | | | |from near | | | | |Aturuk. | | | | | Rom or Um |4 | 372 | | |Dinka village Gursan | | | | |named Rom, under | | | | |Sheikh Jok. The | | | | |district for the | | | | |next 8 miles is | | | | |known by the | | | | |Arabs as Um | | | | |Gursan. The | | | | |track from Renk | | | | |to here is, as a | | | | |rule, excellent, | | | | |but from here to | | | | |Kaka bad; | | | | |passing over | | | | |hard-baked, | | | | |badly cracked | | | | |cotton soil. | | | | |Splendid game | | | | |district on both | | | | |banks. | | | | | Ardeib El |6 | 378 |Ardeib El | |District of Miriam | | |Miriam | |Tereiti begins. | | |district on | | | | |west bank | | | | | | | Meshra Rom|2 | 380 | | |Telegraph line or Tereiti| | | | |passes here. | | | | |Ageir district. | | | | | Fil and |3 | 383 | | |Ageir Dinka Ajak Kwa | | | | |villages. Track El Mango. | | | | |about 1 mile | | | | |from river. | | | | |Country open | | | | |with patches of | | | | |bush here and | | | | |there. Track | | | | |goes further | | | | |from river; at | | | | |knoll called | | | | |Debba Shagerab | | | | |road bends | | | | |westwards and | | | | |crosses a marshy | | | | |(in rains) plain | | | | |to Debeik, | | | | |Sheikh Akol’s | | | | |village, about 1 | | | | |mile from river | | | | |opposite Kaka. | | | | | Kaka and |11| 391 |Kaka is one of|Many grass |On the eastern Debeik | | 634 |a collection |islands block |bank the swamp | | |of Shilluk |the river |is perhaps 500 | | |villages |channel, which |yards wide | | |spread along |averages from |behind it the | | |several miles |300 to 400 |eternal belt of | | |on the left |yards in width.|forest. Outside | | |bank, 400 |Near Kodok |of this again | | |yards from the|these grass |stretches an | | |river. From |islands occur |endless plain of | | |this point |in constant |high grass | | |southward, the|succession, and|dotted with | | |villages on |on the west |clumps of trees. | | |the western |bank a double |This side of the | | |bank of the |line of Shilluk|river is quite | | |river are |villages is to |uninhabited, | | |continuous. |be seen—the one|except by a few | | |They cluster |on the edge of |Shilluks who | | |along the |the swamp, and |cross the river | | |ridge and |the other |for the purpose | | |behind the |further inland.|of hunting or | | |forest. In |Landing can |fishing. | | |front of them |only |Occasional big | | |extends a |occasionally be|khors run into | | |broad belt of |effected on |the Nile on the | | |swamp, mostly |either bank of |eastern bank. | | |dry at low |the river |These | | |Nile, varying | |depressions run | | |in width from | |for many miles | | |a few hundred | |inland, and | | |yards to over | |their banks are | | |a mile. | |covered with a | | |Landing at any| |thick growth of | | |point along | |thorny trees. | | |this reach is | | | | |impossible | | | | |except at low | | | | |Nile. The | | | | |marsh is very | | | | |deep, and | | | | |covered with | | | | |thick grass | | | | |and reeds, | | | | |through which | | | | |nothing but | | | | |hippopotami | | | | |can force | | | | |their way | | | | | | | Ajok |8 | 397 | | |Skirting an open | | | | |marshy (in | | | | |rains) plain on | | | | |right and | | | | |following line | | | | |of trees on left | | | | |Ajok (Dinka | | | | |village) is | | | | |reached. Tracks | | | | |now become | | | | |numerous and | | | | |ill-defined; the | | | | |one followed led | | | | |across an open | | | | |marshy (in | | | | |rains) plain to | | | | |the Nile, 2 | | | | |miles north of | | | | |Kaka Wood | | | | |station. | | | | | Kurwa |5 | 402 |Road starts | | district | | |from here to | | | | |Fungor (Mek | | | | |Bosh-Nubawi) | | | | |(41), and J. | | | | |Gedir (71 | | | | |miles). No | | | | |landing place.| | | | | | | Kaka Old |2 | 404 | |The river now |Known as Hellet Wood | | | |curves to the |El Nyam-Nyam, Station | | | |west and then |close to river (1902) | | | |to the east |bank; wood | | | | |station. Much | | | | |game | | | | |here—waterbuck, | | | | |lion, cobus | | | | |leucotis, &c. | | | | | El Gerab |7 | 411 |Village. | |The country in | | |Marshy banks; | |the bend the | | |a few trees | |river forms is | | | | |called Gerab El | | | | |Aish (bread- | | | | |bag?). | | | | | Melut |2 | 413 | | |Telegraph | | | | |station, | | | | |Government | | | | |buildings, and | | | | |residence of | | | | |police officer. | | | | |Line crosses | | | | |river to west | | | | |bank. Track | | | | |leads from here | | | | |to Kirin, on the | | | | |Abyssinian | | | | |frontier. | | | | | Demtemma |3 | 416 |Shilluk | |Demtemma. Small | | |village left. | |village 700 | | |Sheikhs Kodak | |yards from bank. | | |and Tak | |Headquarters of | | | | |district | | | | |officer. | | | | | Sheikh |2 | 418 |Unapproachable| |Sheikh Lowir (D) Delal | | |by steamers at| |village two | | |high Nile; a | |hours inland | | |string of | |east. | | |villages now | | | | |extends, 1 to | | | | |2 miles | | | | |inland, along | | | | |the west bank | | | | |for many | | | | |miles. | | | | | | | Sheikh |31| 449 |His villages |Floating |Dinka villages Nyekeia | | |extend for the|islands |right bank; but | | |next 10 miles.|frequent. |not so numerous | | | |Western channel|as Shilluks on | | | |200 yards |left bank. | | | | | Kodok[34] |10| 669 |Up narrow |Country on each|A track leads | | 459 |backwater on |bank open |south from | | 738 |left bank. |grassy plain, |opposite Kodok | | |Position 9° |with bunches of|to Uryong on the | | |53′ longitude,|big trees, |Sobat, about 40 | | |32° 8′ |resembling a |miles. Three | | |latitude. |park |wells at Dunjol, | | |Height, | |13 miles south. | | |according to | |Open grassy | | |Austin, 1,360 | |country most of | | |feet. Date | |the way, up to | | |palms. At low | |within 7 miles | | |Nile a steamer| |of Uryong, when | | |cannot get up | |thick thorn bush | | |the backwater,| |continues to the | | |and has to | |river. | | |discharge on | | | | |the east bank | |Scattered Dinka | | |of the | |villages at | | |peninsula | |intervals. | | |forming the | | | | |backwater. The| | | | |latter has | | | | |then to be | | | | |crossed in | | | | |boats. | | | | |Headquarters | | | | |of the | | | | |Province. | | | | |Telegraph | | | | |station and | | | | |post office. | | | | |Government | | | | |buildings, | | | | |brick stores, | | | | |zinc roofed. | | | | |Native village| | | | |600 yards to | | | | |west, with a | | | | |few shops, | | | | |where small | | | | |requirements, | | | | |such as | | | | |sardines, | | | | |cigarettes, | | | | |etc., can be | | | | |purchased. | | | | |Trade goods | | | | |popular in | | | | |these parts | | | | |can be | | | | |procured here.| | | | |Garrison of | | | | |two companies.| | | | |Marchand’s | | | | |garden, etc., | | | | |kept up. His | | | | |expedition | | | | |arrived here | | | | |June, 1898; | | | | |attacked twice| | | | |by Dervishes. | | | | |Anglo- | | | | |Egyptian | | | | |expedition | | | | |arrived | | | | |10.9.98. | | | | |French | | | | |evacuated | | | | |December, | | | | |1898. Was in | | | | |the old days a| | | | |considerable | | | | |trading | | | | |station. | | | | |Climate | | | | |unhealthy July| | | | |to October. | | | | |Millions of | | | | |mosquitos. | | | | | | | Lul |18| 477 |Austrian Roman| | | | |Catholic | | | | |Mission | | | | |Station. | | | | |Flourishing | | | | |garden on | | | | |bank. Station | | | | |600 yards | | | | |inland. Staff | | | | |of about five | | | | |fathers and | | | | |three sisters.| | | | | | | Taufikia |34| 511 | | |Station second | | 822 | | |in importance in | | | | |U.N. Province. | | | | |Headquarters of | | | | |a Sudanese | | | | |battalion; 300 | | | | |inhabitants; | | | | |Mamur; deleib | | | | |and dom palms, | | | | |also acacias; | | | | |Old Government | | | | |post under | | | | |Ismail. Sir S. | | | | |Baker’s | | | | |headquarters in | | | | |1865, etc.; | | | | |“Baker’s Tree” | | | | |still remains. | | | | |Fairly healthy | | | | |site, but little | | | | |trade. Country | | | | |in rear marshy, | | | | |but never | | | | |flooded. White | | | | |ants bad. Good | | | | |landing place. | | | | |Proposed site | | | | |for a dockyard | | | | |(1904). | | | | | Sobat |5 | 516 |Village left |River channel |Mouth of River River | | 830 |opposite |bends gradually|Sobat or Bahr El [_The | | |junction. |due west. |Asfar. Yellow river | | |Sheikh Luong |Average breadth|river, 80 to 150 between | | | |at Low Nile 150|yards wide; well the Sobat | | | |to 300 yards. |defined banks; mouth and | | | |Numerous |current of Lake No | | | |islands and |cream-coloured has not | | | |backwaters in |water three yet been | | | |places |miles per hour. accurately| | | | |Almost at the surveyed. | | | | |junction, on the The | | | | |left bank of the figures | | | | |Sobat, is the given in | | | | |(deserted) fort this | | | | |built in 1898. portion | | | | |This point was must, | | | | |reached from therefore,| | | | |Abyssinia by be | | | | |Colonel accepted | | | | |Artomonoff and with | | | | |Messrs. Faivre caution._]| | | | |and Potter ten | | | | |days before the Finidawi |— | — |The left bank | |Marchand mission | | |is still | |passed (vide p. | | |studded with a| |141). Seven | | |chain of | |miles up the | | |Shilluk | |Sobat on its | | |villages | |north bank, and | | |standing about| |six miles across | | |a mile from | |southwards from | | |the river. The| |Taufikia, is the | | |intervening | |American | | |space is | |Protestant | | |covered with | |Mission Station | | |long grass, | |of Tatûg or | | |but open in | |Deleib (amid a | | |places, with | |grove of deleib | | |stunted | |palms “tuga”). | | |solitary | |Flourishing. | | |trees. Much | |Shilluk | | |game. | |neighbourhood. | | | | | Khor Attar|1 | 517 | | |Wooding station; | | | | |good landing | | | | |place; swampy | | | | |inland. Khor | | | | |running in from | | | | |due south. Trees | | | | |and grass, | | | | |ambach, &c. | | | | | Tonga |4 | 521 | |East end of | | | | |Tonga Island | | | | |begins. Very | | | | |low; annually | | | | |covered by the | | | | |flood. Width | | | | |from one to two| | | | |and a-half | | | | |miles. At low | | | | |Nile the | | | | |channel | | | | |separating it | | | | |from the | | | | |mainland is dry| | | | |at the western | | | | |end. The | | | | |eastern part of| | | | |this channel is| | | | |termed the | | | | |River Lolle or | | | | |Fanakama. At | | | | |its eastern end| | | | |it is 80 yards | | | | |broad and about| | | | |three feet deep| | | | |(in April); it | | | | |is doubtful | | | | |whether it is a| | | | |river at all; | | | | |but it has been| | | | |reported to | | | | |come from the | | | | |Nuba hills. It | | | | |was explored by| | | | |Marno in 1880 | | | | |for about 32 | | | | |miles, and by | | | | |Colonel Sparkes| | | | |in 1899 for | | | | |about 28 miles | | | | |(stopped by | | | | |sudd). A branch| | | | |from the Lolle | | | | |forms the | | | | |western part of| | | | |the channel | | | | |referred to. | | | | | | Gabt El |5 | 526 | | |Formerly a base Megahid | | | | |camp for sudd | | | | |cutting parties. | | | | | Shakwa El |5 | 531 | | |Shilluk Shilkawi | | | | |villages—group. | | | | | Bahr El |16| 547 | |Western end of |Mouth of the Zeraf | | 880 | |Tonga Island |Bahr El Zeraf; | | | | |38 yards broad; | | | | |little or no | | | | |current; 19 feet | | | | |deep (low Nile). | | | | | Maya |53| 600 | | |A large lagoon Signora | | | | |(explored by | | | | |M’lle. Tinné | | | | |(Dutch) in | | | | |1863), over 500 | | | | |yards wide, | | | | |extending for | | | | |some distance | | | | |alongside the | | | | |river. Likely | | | | |place for sudd | | | | |to collect. | | | | |Connects with | | | | |Bahr El Jebel, | | | | |13 miles up | | | | |stream of Lake | | | | |No. | | | | | Lake No |12| 612 | |Entrance to | | | 985 | |Lake No. Mouth | | | | |of the Bahr El | | | | |Jebel. For | | | | |description of | | | | |Lake No vide | | | | |p. 165. | ----------+--+--------+--------------+---------------+----------------

RECAPITULATORY TABLE OF DISTANCES.

--------------+------------------+------------------ | Intermediate. | From Omdurman. +------+-----------+------+----------- |Miles.|Kilometres.|Miles.|Kilometres. --------------+------+-----------+------+----------- J. Auli | 28 | 45 | 28 | 45 | | | | Geteina | 55 | 88 | 55 | 88 | | | | J. Arashkol | 54 | 86 | 109 | 175 | | | | Dueim | 16 | 26 | 125 | 201 | | | | Aba Island | 38 | 61 | 163 | 262 | | | | Fachi Shoya | 13 | 21 | 176 | 283 | | | | Goz Abu Guma | 16 | 26 | 192 | 309 | | | | Abu Zeid | 16 | 26 | 208 | 333 | | | | Jebelein | 30 | 48 | 238 | 383 | | | | Renk | 60 | 96 | 298 | 479 | | | | J. Ahmed Agha | 55 | 89 | 353 | 568 | | | | Kaka | 41 | 66 | 394 | 634 | | | | Demtemma | 22 | 35 | 416 | 669 | | | | Kodok | 43 | 69 | 459 | 738 | | | | Taufikia | 52 | 84 | 511 | 822 | | | | Sobat River | 5 | 8 | 516 | 830 | | | | Bahr El Zeraf | 31 | 50 | 547 | 880 | | | | Lake No | 65 | 105 | 612 | 985 --------------+------+-----------+------+-----------

SECTION 4.—LAKE NO TO GONDOKORO.

----------------+---------------------+------------------------------- | Miles. | | Kilometres. | +-------------+-------+ Place. |Intermediate.| From | Description. | | Lake | | |No.[32]| ----------------+-------------+-------+------------------------------- | | |For description of Lake No, | | |see page 165. For the Sudd, | | |see Appendix B. | | | Bahr El Jebel | — | — |For detailed description and | | |maps of the Bahr El Jebel | | |between Lake No and Gondokoro, | | |see Sir W. Garstin’s Report | | |(Blue Book, Egypt, No. 2, | | |1901, price 3 s. 6 d.), | | |from which much of the | | |following is taken; also see | | |his Report of 1904 (price 17 | | |s.). | | | Ex block[35] | 1 | 1 |The entrance to the Bahr El No. 1 | | |Jebel is about 150 yards broad | | |at the extreme east end of „ „ 2| 8 |9 14 |Lake No. The channel, turning | | |suddenly to the south, is Discharge | 1 |10 16|bounded on either side by a (14.4.00) | | |dense perpendicular growth of 218·95 | | |rich green papyrus swamp, in c.m. per sec. | | |which ambach trees, and _um | | |suf_ and convolvulus Ex block No. 3| 6 |16 26|occasionally appear. The | | |papyrus reaches from 10 feet „ „ 4| 21 |37 59|to 15 feet above the surface | | |of the water (Jan.). As the „ „ 5| 14 |51 82|steamer proceeds in its | | |winding course, the channel „ „ 6| 4 |55 88|varies from 70 to 100 yards, | | |whilst the breadth of the „ „ 7| 3 |58 93|papyrus strip varies from a | | |few hundred yards to several „ „ 8| 6 | 63 |miles. The solid ground (at | | 101 |its best only a few feet above | | |the level of the water) on the „ „ 9| 3 | 66 |far side of the papyrus | | 106 |gradually recedes, and the | | |trees in the distance become „ „ 10| 1 | 67 |more and more sparse, till at | | 108 |last they vanish altogether. | | |Except in occasional | | |instances, no dry land is to | | |be seen throughout these | | |swamps. Their extent is | | |unknown, but, more especially | | |to the west of the river, it | | |must be enormous. In all | | |probability the greater | | |portion of the region lying | | |between the Bahr El Jebel and | | |Bahr El Ghazal and its | | |tributaries is, in the rainy | | |season, a vast marsh. To the | | |east their area is more | | |limited, as the country beyond | | |the Bahr El Zeraf gradually | | |rises into alluvial plains, | | |covered with dense grass, and | | |intersected by numerous swamp | | |lines. These plains, as a | | |whole, are above the level of | | |the Nile when in flood. In the | | |long island, lying within the | | |loop formed by the Bahr El | | |Zeraf with the main stream, | | |there undoubtedly exists a | | |ridge of comparatively high | | |land. Upon this a Nuer | | |population has settled. Except | | |by occasional glimpses of | | |trees, and, more rarely, of a | | |village, it is impossible to | | |trace this ridge. Its limits | | |are undetermined. It is | | |surrounded on every side by a | | |belt of almost impassable | | |morass. The only evidence of | | |human beings are the grass | | |fires on the horizon, and, | | |except for an occasional | | |elephant, buck, or giraffe, | | |visible in the far distance | | |from the top of the steamer, | | |and a few water-birds, bee- | | |eaters, wagtails, &c., animal | | |life appears to have suddenly | | |become extinct. At sunset, | | |however, thousands of insects | | |make their appearance, but, | | |with the exception of the | | |mosquito, who is always _en | | |évidence_ to a greater or | | |lesser extent (worst from | | |April to November (during the | | |rains) and least from December | | |to March—dry season—grass | | |fires), they vanish after an | | |hour or two. | | | Ex block No. | 5 | 72 |The water of the Bahr El Jebel 11 | | 116 |is dark-coloured, but contains | | |little or no sediment. The „ „ 12| 3 | 75 |depth of the main channel | | 120 |varies from 20 to 24 feet at | | |low Nile. As far as mile 40, „ „ 13| 4 | 79 |the ridge lying between the | | 127 |Zeraf and the Jebel is visible | | |on the eastern bank, at a „ „ 14| 3 | 82 |distance varying from 500 to | | 132 |3,000 yards. Trees and a few | | |palms appear to indicate the | | |presence of villages. From | | |this point the ridge | | |disappears and the swamps | | |stretch to the horizon upon | | |both sides of the river. The | | |first four of the sudd blocks, | | |cleared by Major Peake’s | | |party, occurred within this | | |distance. The fifth, sixth, | | |seventh, and eighth blocks | | |were met with between miles 50 | | |and 63. Upstream of mile 63, | | |the character of the marsh | | |changes. North of this point | | |comparatively few open lagoons | | |are to be seen, but from here, | | |until Hellet-el-Nuer (mile | | |139) is reached, these shallow | | |lakes border the Bahr El Jebel | | |in continuous lines. Some of | | |them are of considerable area, | | |as a reference to the map will | | |show. They form nurseries for | | |the growth of water plants, | | |and are the chief cause of the | | |blocks which form in the | | |channel. Their depth rarely | | |exceeds 3 feet. As the river | | |is ascended, these lagoons | | |increase in number and size. | | |The channel often passes | | |between two of these lakes, | | |only separated from them by a | | |belt of papyrus. In winter | | |these lagoons are open spaces | | |of water, but, with the advent | | |of the rainy season (in the | | |month of April), their | | |surfaces become covered with | | |detached masses of floating | | |vegetation. Many of them are | | |connected by a series of | | |openings with the river, and | | |their water level rises and | | |falls with that of the latter. | | |The loss of water, by | | |evaporation, upon these | | |shallow ponds, must be | | |extremely great. It is | | |difficult to say whether these | | |lagoons are old courses of the | | |Bahr El Jebel and long since | | |filled up, or whether they are | | |traces of the vast lake which, | | |it is imagined, once covered | | |this area. The latter | | |supposition appears to be the | | |more probable, as the channel | | |of the river is so deep and so | | |sharply defined that it | | |appears hardly possible that | | |it should have utterly | | |disappeared. On the other | | |hand, there is at least one | | |instance where the river is | | |actually in process of | | |vanishing, i.e., between | | |miles 143 and 165. In this | | |reach the channel is filled | | |with decomposed sudd to such | | |an extent that it is difficult | | |to trace it. It is reasonable | | |to suppose that, unless | | |cleared, it will, in course of | | |time, disappear and be | | |transformed into a series of | | |“mayas” or lagoons. These | | |“mayas” are constantly | | |changing their shape. New | | |channels burst into the river | | |and others fill up and | | |disappear. | | | Discharge | 10 | 92 |The average level of the (1.4.01) 362 | | 148 |marshes, in March and April, c.m. per sec. | | |1901, was from 7 inches to 1 | | |foot above the river water | | |surface. Between mile 65 and | | |Hellet-el-Nuer, the width of | | |the river is very variable; in | | |many places it is only 60 | | |yards and in others as much as | | |150 yards. The general average | | |may be taken as from 75 to 80 | | |yards, and the mean velocity | | |of the stream at 2 miles an | | |hour, at low water. The depth | | |ranges from 15 to 22 feet, but | | |in places is as much as 28 | | |feet. The sudd blocks 9 to 14 | | |were met with between miles 65 | | |and 82. At block 14, what may | | |be termed the first series of | | |sudd obstruction ended, and | | |with its removal, in April, | | |1900, through navigation | | |between Khartoum and Gondokoro | | |was restored. The worst place | | |in the river, in the way of | | |giving trouble, was block No. | | |10, at mile 67. | | | 2 deleib | 16 | 108 |From this point land palms. (W.) | | |approaches the river on both | | |banks, that to the east being 3 deleib | 5 | 113 |less extensive. palms. (E.) | | | | | | Trees | 12 | 125 |Trees 5 miles to east. | | | Hellet El Nuer | 14 | 139 |At mile 139 from Lake No, | | 223 |Hellet El Nuer (or Aliab Dok) | | |is reached. It is rather a | | |pretty landing-place with | | |stretches of short turf; no | | |huts or inhabitants. The | | |latitude at this place is 8° | | |4′ 36″ North, and at this | | |point the high land touches | | |the west bank of the Jebel and | | |stretches in a broad expanse | | |to the horizon. The bank here | | |is 3 feet above the water, but | | |the land rises at a short | | |distance from the river. This | | |plain is evidently never | | |swamped, even in flood. It is | | |covered with a growth of | | |deleib palms, Euphorbia, and | | |bush. It commences at mile | | |131, and continues along the | | |river as far as mile 144, with | | |swampy intervals at the loops. | | | Captain Gage’s | — | — |At Hellet El Nuer itself, a channel | | |branch of some size takes off | | |the Bahr El Jebel. This | | |channel is not shown upon any | | |existing maps, and was first | | |mentioned by Captain Gage, of | | |the 7th Dragoon Guards, in his | | |report upon his journey | | |through the sudd in the winter | | |of 1899-1900. It has a width | | |of 70 yards, of which 10 yards | | |on either side are filled by | | |the swamp grasses. Its average | | |depth, at low water, is 3 | | |feet, and its mean velocity is | | |2 feet per second. Its | | |discharge, as measured in | | |March, 1901, was 21·74 cubic | | |metres per second. Captain | | |Gage’s channel leaves the Bahr | | |El Jebel at a right angle, but | | |some 500 yards down-stream it | | |turns in a north-westerly | | |direction. Captain Gage | | |followed its course for some | | |40 miles, but was then stopped | | |by sudd. It seems not | | |improbable that this channel | | |forms a junction between the | | |waters of the Bahr El Jebel | | |and those of the River Naam, | | |which discharges into the Bahr | | |El Ghazal, through the Khor | | |Deleib. A few miles down- | | |stream its banks are lined by | | |a succession of Nuer villages, | | |and its width increases to 200 | | |yards. It must carry a large | | |quantity of water when in | | |flood. At other periods of the | | |year (January) it appears to | | |flow into, not out of, the | | |Bahr El Jebel. | | | North end[36] of| 4 | 143 |Four miles further on the false and true | | 230 |channel widens into a small channels and | | |lake, and from here[36] the block 15 | | |true river is blocked by sudd | | |for some 20 miles. This is | | |termed block 15, and repeated | | |efforts to clear it out | | |(1901-02), owing to the total | | |absence of current, resulted | | |in failure. The expedition | | |under Lieutenant Drury, | | |1903-04, very nearly succeeded | | |in clearing the whole of the | | |true channel. Both Lieutenant | | |Drury and Sir W. Garstin later | | |passed right through this | | |block in 1904, the only | | |remaining piece near the | | |southern end of the block | | |being fairly easily navigable. | | |The true channel is from 16 to | | |20 feet deep, whilst the false | | |channel to the west is only 4 | | |feet to 6 feet in depth. One | | |of the Dervish steamers, with | | |boats containing ivory, was | | |sunk in this part of the | | |river, and was discovered by | | |the 1903-04 expedition. At | | |present navigation of the | | |false channel is attended with | | |considerable difficulty, and | | |the services of a competent | | |pilot are indispensable. The | | |river is separated into many | | |branches, and these cross and | | |recross one another, forming a | | |bewildering labyrinth of | | |islands. At the south end of | | |the small lake before | | |mentioned, channels converge | | |from all points of the | | |compass. These are separated | | |by low flats, covered with | | |dense growth of papyrus. | | | Series of lakes | 7 | 150 |After steaming for some 7 or 8 | | |miles through a wilderness of South end of | 15 | 165 |papyrus, a series of lakes is true and false | | 265 |reached, at mile 150 from Lake channels and of | | |No. Stiff current here. These block 15 | | |lakes have a depth of about 4 | | |feet at the deepest point, but Land approaches | 1 | 166 |shoal rapidly towards the east edge of | | |shore. A feeble but distinct channel | | |current passes through them to | | |the north. Their breadth North channel to| 21 | 187 |varies largely. Their shores Bahr El Zeraf | | 301 |are surrounded by high papyrus | | |and their surfaces are dotted Mouth of Yei (?)| 33 | 220 |by countless small sudd | | |islands. There are, however, North end old | 5 | 225 |indications on both sides that false channel | | 362 |the high land is not very far | | |distant. It has already been Ex block No. 16 | 18 | 243 |explained that the true | | 391 |channel, which lies to the | | |east of these lakes, is said „ „ 17 | 2 | 245 |to skirt the dry land. On the | | 394 |west a line of fair-sized | | |trees at a distance of, „ „ 18 | ½ | 245½ |perhaps, 2 miles, shows that | | 395 |the swamps in that direction | | |also have a limit. A very | | |noticeable feature of these | | |expanses of water is their | | |lifelessness. No birds are to | | |be seen, and hippopotami | | |appear to avoid them | | |altogether. At mile 163 the | | |lakes end, and a fresh network | | |of branching streams confront | | |the navigator. Here, again, | | |very careful steering and | | |knowledge of the passage to be | | |followed is required. Each | | |year these channels change. | | |What is, in one season, the | | |deepest channel, is, perhaps, | | |the next year impassable. For | | |some 5 miles the river is | | |split up into many different | | |branches, all winding through | | |papyrus swamp. At mile 165 the | | |true channel of the river is | | |reached. The change is | | |startlingly sudden, as the | | |depth suddenly increases from | | |4 to 21 feet. Instead of a | | |twisting stream, the Bahr El | | |Jebel again becomes a fine | | |open river, some 80 to 90 | | |yards in width, bounded by a | | |high fringe of papyrus on | | |either side. The false channel | | |leaves the river at an angle | | |of nearly 90 degrees. In | | |April, 1900, the junction was | | |blocked by sudd, but this was | | |light and easily removed. | | |Large shallow lagoons extend | | |on either bank, separated from | | |the river by a belt of | | |papyrus. The high land to the | | |west ends about a mile from | | |the river, and the swamp | | |recommences. To the east a | | |line of palms, perhaps, 6 or 7 | | |miles distant, not improbably | | |indicates the banks of the | | |Bahr El Zeraf. Above this | | |point the Bahr El Jebel widens | | |out for some distance. In | | |places its breadth is as much | | |as 200 yards, and its depth | | |from 15 to 18 feet. The swamps | | |continue as before. At mile | | |166 the high land approaches | | |the river on the east, and | | |runs parallel to it for some 2 | | |miles. It is covered with bush | | |and an occasional Euphorbia. | | |At this point a khor joins the | | |Nile on the west bank, | | |bringing in a strong stream of | | |water. Two villages (Nuer) are | | |to be seen in the distance; | | |these are probably Favor and | | |Fatooah of the German map | | |(Julius Perthes). The mean | | |velocity now averages 1½ miles | | |per hour. Between miles 175 | | |and 200 the high land and bush | | |before mentioned touches the | | |eastern bank at intervals. At | | |mile 187 there is a break in | | |this ridge, and two or three | | |channels leave the Nile to the | | |east. These are said by the | | |natives to be the most | | |northerly outlets of the Bahr | | |El Zeraf. In 1900 a fine | | |deleib palm stood on the | | |water’s edge at this point. | | |This formed a landmark that | | |could be seen for miles. It | | |has now, unfortunately, fallen | | |into the river. At mile 220, | | |and again at mile 223, | | |channels come in from the west | | |bringing water to the Jebel. | | |These streams may possibly be | | |the mouths of the River Rodi, | | |or Yei, which is supposed to | | |join the Nile somewhere in | | |this locality. At mile 225 the | | |false channel, which, previous | | |to the clearance of blocks 16 | | |to 19, was the only navigable | | |line, joins the river. This | | |was the route followed by | | |Major Peake and Lieut. Drury | | |in 1900, in making the journey | | |to the upper Nile. They found | | |the passage very difficult. | | |During the transit they bent | | |their rudder twice, and went | | |aground four times. From this | | |point numerous channels join | | |the Bahr El Jebel on both | | |sides. Many islands, covered | | |with ambach and papyrus, | | |separate the stream into | | |numerous branches, and the | | |whole country is once more a | | |waste of swamp. The Bahr El | | |Jebel here is extremely narrow | | |(25 to 30 yards), but is from | | |18 to 22 feet deep. The false | | |channel in appearance far more | | |resembles the main river than | | |does the true one. | | | South end of | 3½ | 249 |It is hard to imagine that block No. 18 | | 401 |this narrow, twisting stream | | |can be the Nile. Its windings | | |are worse than ever. A tree or | | |a boat may be visible at a | | |comparatively short distance | | |ahead, and yet many miles of | | |channel must be traversed | | |before it is reached. The | | |river here runs nearly due | | |west, while the false channel | | |follows an easterly course, | | |passing through numerous | | |shallow lakes, until it joins | | |the main river again at mile | | |249. At mile 240 the Jebel | | |widens out again, and more | | |resembles a river in | | |appearance than it did. Its | | |average breadth is from 50 to | | |60 yards, and its depth is | | |some 15 feet. Between this | | |point and mile 248 occurred | | |the four sudd obstructions, | | |removed in February, 1901, by | | |Lieut. Drury, R.N., and which | | |were known as blocks Nos. 16, | | |17, 18, and 19. At mile 249 Bahr El Zeraf | — | 249 |the Bahr El Zeraf takes off | | 401 |from the Nile, following the | | |false channel for some | | |distance, before branching off | | |to the east. The width of this | | |river at the head is about 30 | | |yards, and the outlet is | | |surrounded by a sea of marsh. | | |Just up-stream of this point | | |there is a severe bend in the | | |Nile, which might one day give | | |trouble. As the steamer | | |passes, decomposed sudd rises | | |to the surface. | | | Shambe | 7 | 256 |The general character of the | | 412 |landscape now changes, as land | | |and forest are visible to the | | |west, and at mile 253 from | | |Lake No, the Shambe lagoon or | | |khor is reached. This is a | | |large lake, some 3 to 5 miles | | |in length, and more than 1½ | | |miles in breadth. Its depth | | |averages 4½ feet. The post of | | |Ghaba Shambe is situated in | | |north latitude 7° 6′ 30″, on | | |the west bank of its lagoon, | | |at a distance of 1½ miles from | | |the river. The land here is | | |about 2 feet over the water, | | |but rises as the forest is | | |reached. It is a dreary- | | |looking spot, consisting of a | | |mud-brick house inside a mud | | |parapet, and a nuzl, and a few | | |“tukls” erected on the flat | | |shore of the lake; garrison of | | |25 men; a Dinka village lies | | |not far off. Shambe is now the | | |chief Nile post of the Bahr El | | |Ghazal province, and from here | | |proceeds the road inland to | | |Rumbek (116 miles), &c. The | | |river winds round the lake for | | |some 8 miles, separated from | | |it by a band of marsh, about | | |600 yards broad. Large | | |quantities of hippopotami. To | | |the east the swamp stretches | | |for a long way; at miles 255 | | |and 256 are two other outlets | | |of the Zeraf River. The aspect | | |of the landscape is extremely | | |desolate, with papyrus-covered | | |marshes stretching in all | | |directions. The river itself | | |alternates between long | | |straight reaches or easy | | |curves, and a series of sharp | | |twists and bends, which form a | | |regular maze through the | | |swamps. The water surface is | | |covered with masses of | | |detached plants of the | | |Pistia (or sword grass) | | |stratiotes. The mean | | |velocity is 2 miles per hour; | | |the average depth is 15 feet; | | |and the average width from 50 | | |to 60 yards. For many miles | | |the same dreary scenery | | |prevails. The river recedes a | | |long way from the western | | |forest, and on both sides an | | |expanse of reeds and water | | |extends. The width of the | | |swamped area here cannot be | | |less than 30 miles. | | | Abu Kuka | 37 | 293 |At mile 293 Abu Kuka, north | | 471 |latitude 6° 54′, is reached. | | |The papyrus swamp ceases just | | |north of this point. Here the | | |forest approaches the river, | | |and the bank is dry. The thick | | |bush comes down to the water | | |edge, the trees being about | | |1,500 yards away. The village | | |of this name is inland, and is | | |not visible from the river. | | | Kanisa | 11 | 304 |At miles 300 and 304, the old | | 489 |and new wooding stations of | | |Kanisa are respectively | | |situated on the west bank. | | |Kanisa or “Heiligen Kreuz,” | | |north latitude 6° 46′, is the | | |site of the Austrian Mission | | |which was located here for | | |many years. The church and | | |buildings were situated on the | | |eastern bank, only a foot or | | |two above the water, but their | | |traces are no longer visible. | | |A large fruit garden formerly | | |existed on the west bank, but | | |only two large shady trees are | | |still alive. This Mission was | | |abandoned in 1864 or 1865, on | | |account of the deadly effects | | |of the climate. The only | | |inhabitants now are a few | | |Dinka. The forest is very | | |thick and consists of Sidr, | | |other acacias, and a few | | |Euphorbia. This forest is | | |continuous as far as the banks | | |of the Rohl, some 60 miles to | | |the west. | | | | | |Immediately up-stream of | | |Kanisa, the river wanders away | | |into the swamps as before. | | |From this point, to mile 343, | | |there is little to describe. | | |The banks on both sides are | | |very flat and rarely more than | | |2 feet above low water level. | | |The papyrus now practically | | |ends. Occasional clumps are to | | |be seen, but nowhere in | | |continuous masses. Tamarisk is | | |common. The spills from the | | |river into the marshes are | | |very numerous, more | | |particularly on the east bank. | | |A line of trees on the eastern | | |horizon, some 7 to 10 miles | | |away, appears to mark the | | |limits of the swamp. It is | | |easy to see how the Bahr El | | |Zeraf marshes are formed. At | | |every few hundred yards the | | |river spills into them. These | | |spill channels are deeply cut, | | |with vertical sides, as if dug | | |by hand, and the amount of | | |water discharged by them in | | |flood must be very great. In | | |size they vary considerably. | | |Their average breadth is from | | |3 to 5 yards, but some are as | | |much as 16 yards wide. Between | | |miles 303 and 379, 129 spills | | |were counted, of which 97 were | | |on the east bank. Probably | | |many more escaped | | |observation.[37] | | | Lake Powendael | 40 | 344 |At mile 344 the large lagoon, | | 553 |known as Lake Powendael, | | |commences on the west. The | | |river circuits this lake for 4 | | |or 5 miles, separated from it | | |by a belt of swamp, varying in | | |width from a few hundred to | | |2,000 yards. Lake Powendael is | | |in many places as much as | | |3,000 yards in breadth, but is | | |very shallow. Its surface is | | |dotted with many small | | |islands, and it is connected | | |with the river by several | | |inlets. Hippopotami are | | |abundant in these parts. Both | | |banks are now very low and | | |flat, about 10 inches over the | | |water. The reach of the river | | |between Bor and Kanisa is | | |unendurably desolate and | | |monotonous, wandering through | | |continual swamp for some 100 | | |miles. At mile 360 another | | |large lake is met with, also | | |on the west. This sheet of | | |water must be quite 4 miles in | | |breadth, and the river winds | | |round it for a long distance | | |in a series of very sharp | | |curves. Many natives are to be | | |seen fishing here. | | | | | |At mile 374 a welcome change | | |appears, as a limit is at last | | |visible to the eastern swamps, | | |which are practically | | |continuous from Lake No to | | |this point. A line of villages | | |(Dinka) stands 2 miles from | | |the river, and behind them | | |lies the forest. A little | | |further up-stream these | | |villages approach nearer, | | |until at last, at mile 380 | | |from Lake No, the high land on | | |the east comes down to the | | |river. | | | Bor[38] | 40 | 384 |Bor, north latitude 6° 12′ | | 617 |46″, is a collection of Dinka | | |villages which stretch | | |northwards (outside the swamp) | | |almost to the Bahr El Zeraf. | | |The forest here stands back | | |from the river on the east | | |bank, but the high bank comes | | |close to the water, except | | |where a large backwater or | | |lagoon passes through it for | | |some 2,000 yards. Gordon | | |mentioned this place as an | | |inconvenient wooding station, | | |but it is very handy now. A | | |few tall deleib palms stand | | |out as land marks. The houses | | |of Bor are neither large nor | | |important, but like in all | | |Dinka villages they are well- | | |kept, neat, and clean. The | | |huts are circular in shape. | | |They are plastered with mud | | |and have conical thatched | | |roofs. Each has a small door | | |through which the inmates | | |crawl. The people show no | | |signs of shyness and appear | | |comfortable and contented. | | |They possess large herds of | | |cattle. At mile 384 the river | | |runs close under the high | | |bank, hugging it for some | | |distance. The land here is | | |from 6 to 8 feet over the | | |water, and is, of course, | | |never flooded. The forest | | |consists of thick bush, with a | | |few large trees; a distinctive | | |feature is the thicket of | | |small deleib palms which cover | | |the ground. Not one in 500 of | | |these young palms appears to | | |develop into a tree, but they | | |form an extremely dense | | |undergrowth. The Bahr El Jebel | | |is now a fine stream, 80 to 90 | | |yards wide, with a strong | | |current. On the west the | | |marshes stretch into space. | | |The valley here must be quite | | |20 miles across. | | | | | |South of Bor, the sudd, | | |properly so-called, | | |disappears. The marshes are | | |formed of a deeper layer of | | |sand, covered with a thin | | |surface of clay, and with | | |streaks of clay running | | |through them. These swamps, | | |except in the centre of the | | |valley, are, as a rule, well | | |over summer water-level, and | | |the loss of water can be as | | |nothing compared with that | | |north of Bor. The vegetation, | | |too, is of a different kind, | | |being chiefly grass, and | | |though dense enough, is not | | |composed of those reeds which | | |require to have their roots | | |under water for a great | | |portion of the year. At mile Dervish Deim | 6 | 390 |390 the Dervish “Deim” is | | 626 |visible, situated on the east | | |bank. This is the place held | | |for so long by the Emir Arabi | | |Dafaalla. The spot is well | | |chosen for defence, as the | | |river sweeps round it on two | | |sides. The bank all round has | | |been cleared of bush for a | | |long way. The “Deim” is | | |surrounded by a mud wall | | |forming a rectangle, of which | | |the river forms one side. The | | |inclosure is some 400 yards | | |deep by 700 yards in length. | | |The mud bank, fast | | |disappearing, is about 4 feet | | |6 inches high, with an outer | | |ditch 3 feet deep by 4 feet | | |wide. At the corners are small | | |watch towers, and in other | | |places remains of loopholed | | |houses. The Bahr El Jebel now, | | |for many miles runs close to | | |the east bank. It winds | | |continually, and there are | | |occasional loops of swamp, but | | |as a whole it follows the high | | |land closely. | | | Bor (military | 8 | 398 |Small military post, furnished post) | | |from Mongalla. Formerly a wood | | |station, now much cut up. | | |Large numbers of elephants. | | |This is to be the site of the | | |Headquarters of the new | | |Administrative District of | | |Bor. | | | | | |In places the bank is | | |perpendicular down to the | | |water’s edge, and from 6 to 8 | | |feet high. At such points | | |there is always great erosion. | | |The scenery more resembles | | |that of the Blue Nile than the | | |White. The forest close to the | | |river, the high banks, the | | |profusion of creepers and | | |undergrowth, the boils and | | |eddies of the river along | | |these curves, combine to form | | |a picturesque scene, utterly | | |different from that usually | | |met with on the White Nile. | | |About 22 miles south of the | | |Deim the Dinka inhabitants are | | |replaced by those of the Bari | | |tribe. The difference is at | | |once apparent. The “tukls” are | | |untidy, crowded together, and | | |badly built. The people seem | | |poor and possess few cattle. | | |They live chiefly by fishing; | | |in April the whole population | | |is engaged in preparing the | | |land for cultivation, if the | | |river allows, chiefly on the | | |west bank. At mile 404 the | | |river bifurcates, one channel | | |branching off to the west, | | |while the other, and the | | |deeper, follows the eastern | | |bank. These two channels | | |reunite at mile 422. The width | | |of the island between them is | | |not very great, being rarely | | |more than 800 to 1,000 yards. | | |The west bank is now a flat | | |grass plain, marked by swampy | | |depressions. The river must | | |top this in flood, but not to | | |any depth, as the marks show | | |that the total rise cannot | | |exceed 4 feet. The west bank | | |is inhabited by the Aliab | | |tribe, a sort of cross between | | |Baris and Dinkas, but they | | |consider themselves quite | | |distinct. The solitary mass | | |known as Jebel Lado is now | | |first visible on the south- | | |west horizon. The river above | | |the junction of the two | | |channels averages 80 yards in | | |width and 11 feet in depth. | | |The bends and twists are | | |never-ending, and there is | | |hardly a straight reach in its | | |whole length. The banks are | | |very sandy, as are the flats | | |which show up above the water. | | |Occasional small islands | | |separate the channel into two | | |or more branches. | | | | | |There is now a decided ridge | | |on either side of the main | | |channel resembling that | | |described in the White Nile. | | |East and west of this ridge | | |the level of the flats is | | |lower, and in the depressions | | |lagoons are formed and winding | | |channels wander. The average | | |width of the valley here | | |cannot be more than from 5 to | | |7 miles. On either bank the | | |forest line marks the high | | |ground. On the narrow ridges | | |above described are located a | | |few groups of Bari huts | | |surrounded by fields of dura. | | |The high ground does not | | |average more than 100 to 200 | | |yards in width. At mile 431 a Tree | 33 | 431 |magnificent tree used to be disappeared[39] | | 694 |situated on the eastern shore. | | |It made a striking landmark, | | |but disappeared in | | |1902.[39] The forest rises | | |rapidly from the water, and at | | |its highest point is quite 20 | | |feet above summer level. One- | | |and-a-half miles up stream, | | |the river, which has followed | | |the eastern bank for so long, | | |now winds across in a westerly | | |direction. In thus crossing | | |the swamps, an excellent idea | | |of the general section of the | | |valley is obtained. In the | | |centre the flats are, perhaps, | | |2 feet above the water; | | |towards the sides they rise to | | |a height of 4 feet and | | |sometimes 4 feet 6 inches. The | | |lower portions are marked by a | | |series of lagoons. These | | |marshes are only, however, | | |swamped when the river is in | | |flood, and even then not to | | |any great depth, as the total | | |flood rise is not more than 4 | | |to 5 feet over summer level. | | |The valley averages 8 to 10 | | |miles in width. The forest and | | |thick bush extend to a long | | |distance away from the river. | | |Progress through this forest | | |is only possible by means of | | |the elephant tracks, which are | | |very numerous. At mile 438 the | | |channel again bifurcates, the | | |two branches reuniting 5 miles Pole west bank | 17 | 448 |up-stream. There are so many (April, 1903) to| | 721 |islands and so many side mark 5° 30′. | | |channels, that it is almost, | | |if not quite, impossible to | | |find the whole stream | | |contained in one single | | |channel, and this is the case | | |the whole way between Bor and | | |Gondokoro. The river varies | | |immensely in width. In places | | |it is from 200 to 300 yards | | |broad, and in others only 80 | | |to 90 yards. As the Bahr El | | |Jebel is ascended the average | | |depth decreases, and | | |throughout the reach between | | |Kiro and Lado is rarely more | | |than from 6 to 9 feet. At mile Western forest | 3 | 451 |451 the river touches the | | 726 |western forest edge, having | | |traversed the marshes. The | | |trees on this side are, as a | | |rule, finer than those in the | | |eastern forest. The bank, at | | |the water’s edge, is from 3 to | | |4 feet high, but rises rapidly | | |to a height of 12 to 16 feet Old Anglo- | 5 | 456 |above the water. At mile 456 Egyptian station| | 734 |used to be an Anglo-Egyptian of Kiro. | | |station, 1901 (west bank), now | | |abandoned. The scenery here is | | |very fine, and luxuriant | | |tropical vegetation abounds. | | |Giant Euphorbia are a marked | | |feature of the landscape. The | | |whole of the banks and most of | | |the trees are covered with a | | |velvety-looking mass of | | |creepers. A bluff, 10 to 12 | | |feet high, juts out into the | | |stream, but the action of the | | |current is so strong that the | | |friable soil is being rapidly | | |eaten away. The face of this | | |cliff is perforated by myriads | | |of holes, made by a very | | |beautiful and tiny species of | | |bee-eater. These birds have | | |rose-coloured wings with | | |bronze-coloured bodies. They | | |add much to the beauty of a | | |lovely scene. | | | Kiro (Congo | 4 | 460 |At mile 400 from Lake No, the F.S.) | | 740 |station of Kiro, the most | | |northerly in the Lado Enclave, | | |is situated on the western | | |bank. The latitude of Kiro is | | |apparently between 5° 12′ and | | |5° 13′ north. The erosion | | |caused by the river here is | | |very great, large masses of | | |the sheer cliff, which is 15 | | |to 20 feet over the summer | | |water-level, are constantly | | |falling into the Nile. It | | |seems probable that unless | | |they take protective measures | | |the Belgians will be forced to | | |retire their houses some | | |distance back from the water. | | |Kiro is a picturesque-looking | | |place. The huts are well laid | | |out and neatly built. The | | |cantonment is surrounded by a | | |brick wall, with places for | | |guns, parapet, and ditch. The | | |Commandant’s house is a | | |comfortable-looking structure, | | |with a good thatched roof and | | |a deep verandah. The forest | | |surrounds the station. The | | |garrison consisted in January, | | |1903, of some sixty-five men. | | |It possessed a small steamer | | |(the “Van Kerckhoven,” called | | |after the leader of the first | | |Congo Expedition to the Nile, | | |1889; the boat is clumsy and | | |draws 4 feet of water; but | | |having been brought in | | |sections overland from the | | |west coast she is entitled to | | |respect), and several steel | | |sailing boats. The negro | | |soldiers differ largely in | | |type from the inhabitants of | | |the Nile valley. In figure | | |they are short and squat, and | | |some of them are much | | |tattooed. They are recruited | | |from the West Coast, and from | | |the tribes in the Congo valley | | |generally, and make excellent | | |and very mobile soldiers. Upon | | |an island opposite the station | | |vegetables and paw-paw trees | | |are grown. Beyond this there | | |appears to be little | | |cultivation. Kiro is extremely | | |unhealthy in the rainy season. | | |In two years the Belgians lost | | |9 Europeans and 300 natives | | |from fever. Black-water fever | | |is not uncommon here, and | | |guinea-worm is a prevalent | | |complaint. One-and-a-half | | |miles up-stream of Kiro two | | |fair-sized lakes are enclosed | | |by the western forest. These | | |evidently receive the drainage | | |of the high land from a | | |considerable distance. On the | | |east bank a khor, passable for | | |small steamers, runs north- | | |north-east, rejoining the | | |river just north of Kiro. From | | |here to mile 467 the river | | |skirts the western bank. | | |Everywhere severe action is | | |taking place, and many trees | | |have fallen into the water. | | |Three miles on another large | | |lake opens out in the forest. | | |At one end of it the Lado | | |mountain forms a background, | | |making an imposing picture. At | | |mile 468 another bifurcation | | |occurs. The western branch | | |follows the forest as far as | | |Lado, but navigation in summer | | |by this channel is difficult. | | |The eastern branch crosses the | | |marshes. There are several | | |connections between the two | | |channels. The river now | | |averages from 250 to 300 yards | | |in breadth. At mile 472 the | | |eastern forest is again | | |reached. Here there is a good | | |wooding station, as the trees | | |and high land come down close | | |to the water’s edge. | | | Mongalla[40] | 14 | 474 |Most southerly post on the | | 763 |Nile of Sudan Government | | |(occupied 1901), situated on | | |east bank. Garrison two | | |companies. A gunboat is always | | |stationed here, in addition to | | |which there is usually a | | |steamer at the disposal of the | | |Commandant for administrative | | |purposes. About 200 tukls. | | |Open grassy, sandy spot; | | |fairly healthy; 5 to 8 feet | | |above water. Plenty of trees | | |and bush. The Bari are the | | |inhabitants of the district, | | |but are few in number; few | | |supplies. Brick houses. | | |Proceeding up-stream, the | | |river divides, the main | | |channel running through | | |swamps, and the east channel | | |skirting the villages of Sheikh Lado’s | 2 | 476 |Sheikh Lado, Lowala, and village, east | | 766 |Yemba. The depth is rarely bank | | |more than 9 feet, though there | | |are occasional pools of 12 to | | |16 feet in depth. Hippopotami | | |used to be extremely numerous | | |and particularly obtrusive, | | |but seem lately to have | | |disappeared. A few huts are to | | |be seen, chiefly on the | | |eastern shore. Most of these | | |have been recently | | |constructed, as many of the | | |Bari have migrated from the | | |west to the east bank of the | | |river, and have settled on | | |Sudan territory. At mile 477 | | |the river again leaves the | | |east bank and crosses the | | |swamps. The width of the | | |valley now contracts to some 4 | | |miles. Such a labyrinth of | | |streams winds through these | | |grassy flats that, without an | | |experienced pilot, navigation | | |would be extremely difficult, | | |more especially as the depth | | |of water rapidly decreases. As | | |it is, there are so many sand | | |banks that it is difficult to | | |proceed at night. At mile 494 | | |the west channel, mentioned as | | |branching off at mile 468, | | |rejoins the east branch, and | | |half a mile up-stream the | | |station of Lado is reached. At | | |this point, with the exception | | |of a moderate-sized inlet some | | |3 miles down-stream of Lado, | | |the river is confined in one | | |single channel. | | | Lado | 19 | 495 |Capital of the Lado Enclave, | | 796 |taken on and rebuilt in 1898. | | |Formerly an Egyptian post, and | | |at one time head-quarters of | | |Emin Pasha. Situated on the | | |bank 10 to 14 feet above | | |river. Very well selected | | |position, protected on the | | |north by a broad swift running | | |khor and 2 forts, and on the | | |south by an impassable morass; | | |only land approach from the | | |west commanded by a fort. | | |Surrounded on three sides by a | | |rectangular parapetted | | |enclosure, about 400 by 200 | | |yards, one long face being | | |open to the river. Garrison, | | |about 15 white officers and | | |500 men (1904). Enclosure | | |contains about 20 good brick | | |straw-thatched houses, and | | |good tukls for the men. Road | | |leads to Rejaf (broad) and | | |thence to Yei, Ibembo and | | |Mbima. Native track also to | | |Kiro. Good bamboo and some gum | | |about Jebel Lado. Forest close | | |by. Few or no supplies. The | | |neighbourhood of Lado is a | | |desolate-looking spot, not | | |nearly so picturesque as Kiro, | | |but, on the other hand, | | |healthier. A flat plain with | | |bushes stretches from the | | |river for about 2 miles. From | | |here the forest commences, and | | |gradually rises to the spurs | | |of Jebel Lado, which is some | | |12 miles from the station. The | | |food for the troops has to be | | |brought from a very long | | |distance. In front of Lado is | | |a low island, upon which | | |vegetables, bananas, and | | |castor-oil plants are grown. | | |This island is 4 feet over | | |low-water level at the south | | |end, and was topped by the | | |1903 flood. According to the | | |Belgian officers, the flood | | |water contains but little | | |sediment beyond sand, and this | | |statement is borne out by the | | |deposit on the flats and | | |banks. They further state that | | |in flood the colour of the | | |water scarcely changes at all. | | |There appears to be no trade | | |whatever, but a good deal of | | |cultivation. The ivory | | |collected here is small. | | |India-rubber is apparently not | | |found within any reasonable | | |distance of the Nile. Owing to | | |the two years’ drought and one | | |year’s flood, the natives on | | |the west bank of the river had | | |no supplies. Lado possesses a | | |fine herd of long-horned | | |cattle for the use of the | | |garrison. Fever is very | | |prevalent during the rainy | | |months, but does not appear to | | |be of such a deadly type as at | | |Kiro. In April, 1901, the | | |rains had already commenced. | | |According to M. Renier, the | | |month of May in this region is | | |one of abundant daily | | |rainfall, but this is not | | |always the case. | | | | | |Proceeding up-stream from | | |Lado, the scenery improves. | | |Eleven ranges of irregularly- | | |shaped peaks are visible to | | |the east and south-east. Most | | |of them are covered with | | |scrub, and round the bases the | | |bamboo is said to grow in | | |luxuriance. From the river | | |bank up to these ranges | | |extends a broad expanse of | | |reeds and grass, bounded by a | | |dark forest line. To the west | | |the country rises rapidly in a | | |series of ridges clothed with | | |forest. The Bahr El Jebel now | | |averages from 250 to 300 yards | | |in width, and the depth ranges | | |from 6 to 8 feet. Islands and | | |side channels abound, and in | | |flood time it must be | | |difficult to say which is the | | |main stream. The loss of water | | |is comparatively small, as the | | |grass flats are high. Numerous | | |Bari villages on the east bank | | |and on the islands, but few on | | |the west bank. Further south, | | |range upon range of hills show | | |up in the distance, one beyond | | |the other. These are not very | | |high, but are of striking | | |outline and form an agreeable | | |change to the eye, after days | | |passed in the dreary flatness | | |of the Jebel marshes. The | | |width of the valley is here | | |about 5 miles from bank to | | |bank. The Bari villages | | |increase in number on the east | | |bank as the river is ascended. | | |Jebel Lado still dominates the | | |western landscape, and Jebel | | |Rejaf, a pyramidal and | | |solitary peak, marks the point | | |where the reefs and rapids | | |begin. On approaching | | |Gondokoro, navigation becomes | | |more and more difficult as the | | |water shoals rapidly, and the | | |maze of channels and islands | | |are perplexing and intricate; | | |half a mile from Gondokoro are | | |some bad shallows. | | | Gondokoro | 9 | 504 |At mile 504 from Lake No, the | | 810 |station of Gondokoro is | | |reached. This place, on the | | |east bank of the Bahr El | | |Jebel, is the north frontier | | |post of the Uganda | | |Protectorate. Gordon gives the | | |latitude of Gondokoro as 4° | | |54′ 29″ north, and the | | |longitude as 31° 43′ 46″ east. | | |The altitudes given by | | |different authorities vary so | | |much that they are not worth | | |recording. Gondokoro, although | | |a healthy-looking station, has | | |a deserted and scattered | | |appearance. The buildings, | | |mostly of bamboo and straw | | |with brick houses for the | | |European staff, contrast but | | |poorly with those of the | | |Belgians at Lado and Kiro; the | | |station was occupied in 1899. | | |The Collector’s house, or | | |Residency, is situated about | | |300 yards to the north of the | | |garrison lines, and 130 yards | | |from the river. It is built of | | |burnt bricks, with a high | | |thatched roof, on ground 16 | | |feet, or more, above the | | |river, and surrounded by a | | |thorn zeriba. This and the | | |M.O.’s house are raised on | | |brick arches from the ground | | |and surrounded by gardens and | | |cultivation. The thorn scrub | | |approaches to within 1000 | | |yards of the houses. The | | |station is situated on a high | | |cliff, from 18 to 39 feet | | |above the water. Much of this | | |cliff has fallen in, and the | | |foundations of the Austrian | | |Mission Buildings, abandoned | | |in 1858, are now on the | | |extreme edge of the high bank. | | |A few deleib palms and lime | | |trees mark this bluff. The | | |station extends over an area | | |of about 1 by ½ mile. The new | | |lines are built some 400 yards | | |back from the river. The | | |present huts which accommodate | | |the small garrison are | | |circular huts of mud and | | |grass. There is also a police | | |barracks containing about 25 | | |men. The remains of Baker’s | | |old lines are still existing. | | |He had here a garrison of | | |1,500 men, but in his time the | | |Bari was a powerful and | | |warlike tribe. Gondokoro was, | | |moreover, an important centre | | |for the slave trade. Baker’s | | |old lines consist of three | | |rectangles, one within the | | |other. The inner one is about | | |300 by 400 yards; the second, | | |500 by 800 yards; while the | | |outer is, perhaps, 1,000 to | | |1,200 yards square. Each of | | |these rectangles is surrounded | | |by a mud bank about 4 feet | | |high, with an outer ditch 4 | | |feet deep by 6 feet broad at | | |the top. There used to be | | |plenty of trees, bananas, paw- | | |paws, etc., and the station | | |was, on the whole, a pretty | | |one, but floods and white ants | | |have now destroyed many of the | | |trees. To the south and north | | |of the station, and also 1¼ | | |miles to the east, are large | | |marshes, which must tend to | | |make the place unhealthy. At | | |times wild elephants come | | |close to the lines. Many Bari | | |villages are located on the | | |river near Gondokoro. All | | |these are on the east side. | | |The Bari appear to be better | | |agriculturists than are either | | |the Dinka, Nuer, or Shilluk. | | |They cultivate dura, ground | | |nuts, beans, and a little | | |tobacco; also sweet potatoes, | | |and manioc. A small market for | | |local produce has been | | |established, and Bari and | | |Luluba keep it fairly well | | |supplied; time, it is hoped, | | |will bring an increase in | | |population and cultivation. | | |The castor-oil plant grows | | |like a weed in this locality. | | |The average maximum flood rise | | |of the river here over summer | | |level is not more than 4 feet. | | |In the flood of 1878 it rose | | |to a height of 7·2 feet on the | | |gauge (Chelu). The general | | |direction of the river here is | | |north and south, so that | | |Gondokoro is well situated | | |with regard to the prevailing | | |winds. The main channel, | | |opposite the station, is about | | |400 yards across, but is | | |separated from the main land | | |by a large island. | | | | | |(For description of the river | | |to the Albert Nyanza, vide | | |Appendix, Vol. II.) ----------------+-------------+-------+-------------------------------

RECAPITULATORY TABLE OF DISTANCES.

--------------------------+------------------+------------------ | Intermediate. | From Lake No. +------+-----------+------+----------- |Miles.|Kilometres.|Miles.|Kilometres. --------------------------+------+-----------+------+----------- Hellet el Nuer | 139 | 223 | 139 | 223 | | | | False channel (22 miles) | 4 | 6 | 143 | 230 | | | | Bahr el Zeraf (south end) | 106 | 170 | 249 | 401 | | | | Shambe | 7 | 11 | 256 | 412 | | | | Abu Kuka | 37 | 59 | 293 | 471 | | | | Kanisa | 11 | 18 | 304 | 489 | | | | Bor | 80 | 129 | 384 | 617 | | | | Latitude 5° 30′ | 64 | 103 | 448 | 721 | | | | Kiro | 12 | 19 | 460 | 740 | | | | Mongalla | 14 | 22 | 474 | 763 | | | | Lado | 21 | 34 | 495 | 796 | | | | Gondokoro | 9 | 14 | 504 | 810 --------------------------+------+-----------+------+-----------

[Footnote 17: The flood discharge at Berber is 14,000 metres cube per second.]

[Footnote 18: For full record of the history of the exploration of the Nile vide “The Nile Quest” by Sir H. Johnston.]

[Footnote 19: An endeavour is to be made during the winter of 1904-5 to explore the Bahr El Arab from its mouth.]

[Footnote 20: I.e., Meeting of the Rivers.]

[Footnote 21: According to some the change takes place at Lake No.]

[Footnote 22: The dates of its maximum levels upstream of the Sobat coincide with those of the Bahr El Jebel.]

[Footnote 23: The maximum is never reached until the late autumn, when the Blue Nile flood has passed away.]

[Footnote 24: Korti is 825 ft. above the level of the Mediterranean.]

[Footnote 25: A reconnaissance for a railway connecting Merowe with Abu Hamed was carried out in April and May, 1904, by Lieut. Newcombe, R.E. The amount of rock cutting necessary to lay the line near the river on the R.B. is said to be prohibitive, and the most feasible scheme seems to be to lay the line some distance inland and approach the river perhaps twice only between Abu Hamed and Merowe. The length of line would be roughly about 150 miles. It has been definitely decided to commence the construction of this line at an early date.]

[Footnote 26: Nowadays (1904) nuggers never make this journey.]

[Footnote 27: For practical purposes reference should be made to Capt. E. A. Stanton’s large scale sketches (I.D. Nubia District, 132) of 23rd August, 1897 (El Bana and Halfia), and 25th August, 1897 (Geridu Rapid). Letters refer to points thus marked on these sketches.]

[Footnote 28: A broad road or clearing has been made along both banks from Shendi to Berber. This is to be extended to Abu Hamed.]

[Footnote 29: For further details of this cataract see N.O. (1st edition, pp. 74-80; 2nd edition, pp. 78-83).]

[Footnote 30: The rainfall in 1903 was 67·9 mm. or 2·7 inches, of which 24·1 mm. fell in May and the remainder in July, August, and September. In 1904 the rainfall amounted to 21·4 mm. or about ¾ of an inch. Vide also p. 12.]

[Footnote 31: The steps taken to exterminate mosquitoes here have proved so effectual that they are now practically extinct. The few stray ones imported by the steamers from the Upper Nile are soon marked down and their larvæ destroyed. For methods of destruction vide “Report of Wellcome Research Laboratories—Gordon College—1904.”]

[Footnote 32: i.e., the point of junction of the Blue and White Niles opposite the South part of Omdurman. The distances are measured up the centre of the navigable channel, so they are not absolutely correct for the tracks on either bank. The (banks) itinerary given here does not always correspond accurately with the latest map, being sometimes based on road reports of previous dates.]

[Footnote 33: A Debba is a low mound, generally the site of an old or existing village.]

[Footnote 34: The native name for the late Fashoda.]

[Footnote 35: I.e., where the block formerly existed.]

[Footnote 36: At this point was the “Box” or “Sanduk,” on a pole, erected as a landmark and for letters.]

[Footnote 37: Vide also page 144.]

[Footnote 38: For fuller description of Bor and its people vide page 144.]

[Footnote 39: There is a large Gemmeiza tree, sheltering a rest house, with a wooding station, in this neighbourhood. Opinions are divided as to whether it is the original tree.]

[Footnote 40: For further description vide p. 146.]

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