Western wilds, and the men who redeem them

Front matter

Class _il GopglitN^

COFYRIGHT DEPOSIT y y

<ti

Chapter I. The Hawkeyes

I make a start. — Fair Iowa. — Yankee, Hoosier, Buckeye, and Scandinavian. — The Aryan wave. — Hoosier grammar. — Sorrows of the non-resident land-owner. — "The walled lakes." — Greatness of the Border States. — "Hoss high, bull strong, and pig tight."— The 'hoppers.— "Omahawgs" and "Omahens."— "Milkville" and " Bilk ville."— Eural Nebraska. — Agricultural wealth. — Pawnees, Otoes, Omahaws. — The Bedouin instinct.—" Go West." . . . • 17-24

Chapter II. A Western Charactee

Unsung heroes. — Scenes in Southern Kansas. — "Shuck up." — " Fevernager." — My host's story. — He leaves Tennessee for New Orleans. — "Chawin' rags for a papermill." — Up into the Cherokee country. — Another run to New Orleans. — Walk home through the "Injun" country. — Murder of Mcintosh and others. — War between the Rossites and Ridgeites. — Exposure and fever. — Delirium. — Rescued by the "little Cherokee girl." — Home again. — Joe and Myra. — More trouble with the Cherokees. — Journey to Iowa. — In danger from the " Danites." — Mrs. Joe's " tantrums." — Captured by the Hawkeyes. — Interview with Judge Lynch. — Horrible murder of Miller and Liecy. — Hanging of 'the Hodges. — Terrible times on the Half-breed Tract. — The California excitement. — Start from Independence. — Troubles on the way. — Danger and death on the great desert. — Among the gold hunters. — More murders. — Return to Tennes.see. — The great war. — Death of the boys. — Removal to Indian Territory. — "Won't there be peace while I live?" — Rest at last 25-44

Chapter III. The Journey To Utah

Flush times in Omaha. — Some characters. — Will Wylie's escape. — " Seen the Elephant." — "A neck-tie sociable." — "Coppered on the jack." — Apostate Mormons' caravan. — Up the slope to Cheyenne. — " Dirty Jule's." — The Plains. — " Magic City." — Passage of the Black Hills.^Virginia Dale. — Laramie Plains; — Benton. — Alkali Desert. — Evanescent "cities." — Bear River City. — Battle with the roughs. — More Mormons. — "Catfish with legs." — Horrors of Bitter Creek. — Green River. — Bridger Plains. — The author a mule-whacker. — Grandeur of Echo Canon. — Weber Valley. — Up to Parley's Park. — Down Parley's Canon. — First view of the Salt Lake. — "City of the Saints." — I become a Gentile sinner 45-55

VI CONTENTS.

Chapter IV

geffroy's trials.

On Griffith Mountain, Colorado. — "Arc we the authors of our own destiny?" — Geffroy's narrative answers. — Beautiful Geneva. — Frenchy fancies vs. German phlegm. — A young enthusia.st. — Hunting the Brotherhood of Man. — At New Harmony, Indiana. — Failure of Communism. — At Nauvoo. — At Communia. — On the plains. — Enlist with the Texan patriots of '-13. — Bright pictures. — Stern realities. — " The River of Souls." — The (iaras templadas. — In the Wild Canon. — Posted on tiie Taos Trail. — Another frightful march. — Down to the Cimarron. — Another trial of the desert. — Night attack on the Mexican camp. — Victory, followed in turn by (light. — Loss of the horses. — Geffroy and friend go after them. — Surrounded by Mexicans. — A dash for life. — Headlong leap into the chasm. — Oblivion, or death? 56-71

Chapter V. Dolores

Return to consciousness. — Laid up in the cabin. — Love and convalescence. — The captured Americans. — Dolores' plan. — The parting. — Gomez and the Pueblos. — Halt at Jemez. — Meeting the Navajoes. — A land of wonders. — Among the Moquis. — A simple, civil, and unwarlike race. — A race without envy or covetousness. — Joyful meeting with Dolores. — Los Diaholos Gritigos. — Flight for the north. — Lost on the desert. — The horrors of thirst. — Another day of anguish. — Life in the rock. — "With our lips pressed to the rock Ave drew new life." — Hope revived. — Pursuit by the Mexicans. — Wounding and death of Dolores. — Agony of GefFroy. — Enlists as a soldier. — The war in Mexico. — Revisits Switzerland. — 1848: the year of Revolutions. — In the army of Baden. — Capture and long imprisonment. — Liberty, when hope was dead. — Return to the Far West. — " Tlie Brotherhood of Man comes not by spasmodic struggles, but by steady toil." " 72-89

CHAPTER VL

POLYGAMIA.

I meet Brigham & Co. — Topography of his kingdom. — I reside there a year. — And become a hated Gentile. — Mormon notabilities: Brigham, Orson Pratt, Hooper, Geo. A. Smith. — " The One-eyed Pirate of the Wasatch." — Polygamy, Bigamy, Brighamy, Monogamy, and other c/amies. — Utah politics. — Noted Gentiles. — Liberal Mormons. — Credulous skeptics. — " No trade with non-Mormons." — Consequent troubles. — Persecution of dissenters. — Journey to Sevier. — Beauties of Pine Gulch.— Return to " Zion." — " There's a better day coming." — Religious lying. — Perjury "for Christ's sake." . . 90-102

Chapter VII. The Pacific Slope

"Westward again. — Corinne. — Promontory. — Dead Fall, Murder Gulch, Last Chance, and Painted Post. — "Do me a favor: shoot me through the head!" — Fine morality of the gamblers. — The Great Nevada Desert. — " Sinks." — Up the Truckee. — State Line. — Down the Sierras. — Wonders of Cape Horn. — Sacramento. — "San .loeykwinn." — Or San AVahkeen? — In Yolo County. — Davisville. — Chinese and silk culture. — I'uks. — Fruits

CONTENTS. vii

and wine. — Does it supersede whisky? — The California seasons. — "Frisco." — Chinese Theater. — The tragedy of Kip Sah. — Buddhist ceremonies. — A gloomy sort of religion. — " Top-side Josh." — The devil-drive. — " Chinaman like Melica man." . . 103-116

CHAPTEE VIII.

TWO YEARS OF CHANGE.

Utah and trouble. — "Mormon hospitality." — The author mobbed and badly liurt, but recovers rapidly. — Healing air of the mountains. — Eich mineral discoveries in Utah. — The Gentiles take heart. — The Emma Mine. — I go to Washington as a lobbyist. — And don't like it. — Further travels in Utah. — Polygamy again. — Kev. J. P. Newman shows that there are but thirteen polygamists mentioned in the Bible. — And hundreds of good monogamists. — Orson Pratt comes back at him. — High times in the Tabernacle. — Some of the nasty features of polygamy. — Such as incest and indecency. — A village composed of Taylors. — And one made up of Winns. — General view of the Territory.— And of the Far West 117-128

Chapter IX. The Missouri Valley

Kansas City: a modern Rome. — We look at it, but do not invest. — The " Land of Zion." — Lawrence. — " The Wakarusa War." — The Massacre of 1863. — The Athens of the West. — Our journey southward: The Leavenworth, Lawrence, and Galveston Road. —

Ottawa. — Western Yankees. — " Brother K 's blooded mare." — " Buffalo stamps." — A

progressive country. — Fertility of Allen and Neosho counties. — An incorrigible old man. — Cherryvale. — The beautiful mounds. — The social Kansian. — " Sna-a-a-kes!" — Northward to Leavenworth. — Quindaro Chindowan. — "A second Babylon." — Wyandotte. — Atchison. — Ti-oy. — St. Joe. — Up the Missouri Valley. — Council Bluffs. — Omaha. — On northward. — Sioux City. — Onawa. — Woodbury. — Staging to Yankton. — Dakotians: Fi'ench, Scandinavians, and Bohemians. — "Woman's Rights:" to do as much work as she can. — The gentle savage. — Lipi Oahye! — "Portable talk." — Northern Dakota. — Western Dakota. — We leave suddenly for California 129-139

Chapter X. The Avonders Of Califorxia

All aboard for Yosemite ! — From chilly " Frisco " to melting Stockton. — By rail to Milton. — Hot drive among the foot-hills. — Copperopolis. — The broiling stage; air dead calm; thermometer 100°. — In the cool grove at last. — The vegetable wonders of the world. — A tree thirty-two feet thick. — " Father and Mother." — " Husband and Wife," 250 feet high. — "Uncle Tom's Cabin." — How came they here? — California names. — Over Table Mountain. — " Truthful James." — Old mining towns. — Sonora. — Chinese Camp. — Garrote. — The Tuolumne Grove. — Tamarack Flat. — Reminiscences of the "strong-minded." — First view of Yosemite. — Prospect Peak. — The terrible descent. — A fall of 2,667 feet. — El Capitan: Tu-toch-ah-nu-la. — A reverie on Cosmos. — Mirror Lake. — Reflected glories. — The climb to Nevada Falls. — Down by Vernal Falls. — The sublime and beautiful. — J. M. Hutchings, the pioneer. — " Spirit of the Evil Wind." — "Great Chief of the Valley." — Down hill to San Francisco. — Climate of the Coast. — A day at the Cliff House. — Poluphloisboio Thalai'scs. — Regretful good-bye to the Pacific Coast 140-163 viii CONTENTS.

Chapter XI. Utah Argentifeea

Gentiles after silver: Mormons after the Gentiles. — " Revelations" and prospecting. — Up Little Cottonwood. — The silver lodes — Snow-slides. — 12,000 feet above the sea. — Bald Peak, and a view of 20,000 sqnare miles. — Big Cottonwood Canon. — The great fire. — American Fork Canon: the Yosemite of Utah. — Mormon farmers vs. Gentile mountaineers. — " The Republic of Tooele." — East Canon and liorn silver. — Chloride Cave. — Dry Canon. — Wild times in the West Mountains. — A Goshoot feast. — I start to Dugway. — And get lost on the desert. — A lonesome night. — Danger and weariness. — Kinety miles travel in twenty-seven hours. — Independence Day on Great Salt Lake. — "No gulU in Utah before the Mormons came." — Sailing on the Lake. — Mines? in southern Utah. — Beaver City. — Mineral wealth of the Territory. — Shall we annex Utah to Nevada? . . 1G4-181

Chapter XII. A Chapter Of Betweens

Joe Allkire talks. — Valley tan whisky calls up reminiscences. — " A bad streak o' luck." — " Sod-corn barefooted." — Millcrites. — '' Misses Chew splits the choir." — The grand dog-light. — Which broke up a town. — "That yaller and spotted dog." — Abraham and the preacher clinch. — " No Morgan-killers need apply." — " The head abolishinists." — Si Duvall's luck. — Union Flats becomes very flat. — Other reminiscences. — Men who had tried many fields. — Story of the mountaineer. — AVill and Bob McAfee. — Camp in Arkansas Canon. — Tlie storm, and falling timber. — Dreadful alternative of the unwounded brother. — He "relieves" the other's torture. — And dies of grief and remorse 182-193

Chapter XIII. Oklahoma

A new route to the Pacific. — I enter the Indian Territory. — Vinita. — " White Cherokecs," — Cabin Creek. — !Mixed bloods. — "It comes back on 'em." — Christian Indians. — ]Muscogee. — .Also ^luskokee. — The Creeks at home. — Ala-buh-tna : "Here we rest." — Natchees and Hitchitees. — An Aboriginal Democracy. — House of Kings and House of Warriors. — rahhj hohkohlcn. — Tallahassee Mission. — The Muskokee in love. — " Beautiful River." — Brad Collins and his gang. — Oklahoma vs. Okmulkee. — Red hot on temperance. — In the Choctaw country. — Tandy Walker. — Among the Cherokees. — The Big Rattling Gourd and other politicians. — Cherokee history. — Civilized Indians of the Territory.— What shall we do with them? .... . , 194-211

Chapter XIV. Journey To The Rio Grande

Northward again. — Out on the Kansas Pacific. — .\ beautiful country. — Eflsworth. — Carnival of crime in 1867.— "Wild Bill."— J. II. Runkle.— "Rake .lake."— "Dad Smith." — "Shall we have a man for breakfast? " — Heroic, but murderous. — Bisons and business. — Arrival at Denver. — Rest and enjoyment. — Southward by the narrow-guagc railway. — The Divide. — Timbered region. — Colorado City — Take stage-coach. — Pueblo. — Night in the stage. — Cocharas. — The sennrita». — Another day of staging. — Trinidad. — The Raton Mountains. — Down npon the New Mexican side. — Wild scenes. — IMaxwell's Ranche. — Passage of the Rocky Ridge. — A snow storm and a grizzly. — Down to Santa

CONTENTS. IX

Fe. — Disappointed with the city. — A queer old town. — High-sounding names. — Indian troubles. — Starting for Fort AVingate. — La Bajada. — Quicn Sabcf — Pueblos Indians. — Valley of the Kio Grande.— Albuquerque —The gente fina.—The " Greasers."— Will they ever amount to any thing ? 212-229

Chapter XV. Tolteccan

The oldest inhabitant. — Alvar Nunez, etc., traverses New Mexico. — What he saw and how he lied about it. — " The Seven Cities of Cibola."— Conquest of New Mexico. — Eevolt of the Pueblos. — Second Conquest. — High-toned grandees. — Caste.— Sad (?) occurrence.— Should the Territory be made a State? — Citizen Indians. — Queer old customs. — Parental authority. — Enterprise.— The universal burro. — We cross the Eio Grande. — And enter on the desert. — The awful, the unutterable desert. — Sufferings from thirst.— Reach " Hog River."— Dead Man's Caiion. — Another desert.— Oasis of El Rito.— Degenerate Spaniards. — Pueblo de Laguna. — An Aztec relic- El Cubero. — "Women's Rights." — Mala Fais. — Agua Azul. — The extinct volcano. — Drive to Fort Wingate. — My companion comes to grief. — Ojo del oso. — Zuni. — Stinking Springs.-^-The Puerco of the West.— Down to Fort Defiance 230-248

CHAPTER XVI. ■n'lLI) LIFE IN AEIZONA

The gathering. — Canon Benito. — Handsome Indian girls.— Navajo patience. — A mixed tongue. — " Slim-man-with-a- white-eye." — El-soo-see En-now-lo-kyh. — " Big Quill." — Murder of Agent Miller.— Sorrow of the Navajoes. — Their kindness and courtesy. — Off for a trip. — My Navajo guide. — " Tohh Jdohh no mas." — Descent into Canon de Chelley. — Wonders on wonders.— The " cliff cities."— Moonlight in the canon.— Out again on the desert. — An awful passage. — The hot alkali plains. — Thirst and suffering. — " Hah-Jcoh, iJie/iccHio.'"— Approach to the Moqui towns. — Amazement of the inhabitants.— The city set on a rock. — The strangest people in the world. — Chino and Misiamtewah. — The IVloquis welcome me gladly. 249-267

Chapter XVII. Amoxg The Aztecs

Topography of Arizona. — A region of hot sands and barren mountains, of fierce savages and gentle Indians, of rich mines and wild, forbidding wastes. — The Mesa Calabasa.— Zunis, Teguas, Moquis, Oraybes, Papagoes, Pimos, and Coco-Maricopas.— Rapid decay of the wild tribes. — Noble Navajoes. — Their native shrewdness, industry and bravery. — Who are they? — Aztecs? — Barboncito. — Ganado Mucho. — Their handiwork.— Their temperance and endurance. — Life at Moqui. — "Ho, Melicano, messay vo!" — Jesus Papa. — Moqui theology. — The "white Indians" of Arizona. — Ruins. — Aztec or Toltec? — Comparison with mound-builders' remains. — And South American Ruins. — Only a theory. — Which no one is bound to accept 268-286

CHAPTER XVIII. FROM MOQtri TO THE COLORADO

Two hundred miles of desert. — Aboriginal mail service. — A new guide. — His nelsoa.ss.— Good-bye, Chino!— Journey to the new Navajo camp.— "Damn Espanol, shteal mooch."— On the sandstone j?iesa.— A pleasant party of four.—" Todos vuierios, pero mas

X CONTENTS.

Apaches!" — Another sandstone waste. — First view of the river, 5,000 feet below us. — Getting clown the cliff. — Water and salts. — At the river at last. — No boats. — Perilous passage. — The white woman: "My God, stranger, did you risk your life to swim that river? " — The Mormon convert's story. — Three days at the ferry. — Parting from my Navajo friends 287-300

Chapter XIX. A Startling Interview

I meet with a surprise. — " ]\Iajor Doyle " i)roves to be John D. Lee. — And tells me the story of his crime. — lie describes tlie events leading to the Mountain Meadow Massacre. — Cliaracter of the murdered emigrants. — They are charged with being enemies of the Mormon people. — The latter incensed. — And determined on revenge. — Did they poison the spring? — Or murder friendly Indians? — Outrage on Mrs. Evans.^The Mormon Council. — Death of the emigrants determined upon. — The closing tragedy. — Lee's excuses and subterfuges. — His further history. — A story horrible enougli for the most inveterate sensationalist. — I bid the Lees good-bye. — And with no regrets. — Grand canon of the Colorado. — Pide to Jacob's Pool. — Thence to Spring-in-Pock. — Lonely camping out. — My solitary journey to Kanab. — The Pi-Ede band of savages. — " Toh, axjua, water!" — Rest at Kanab. — Jacob Hamlin. — The Powell party. — On the desert again. — Pipe Springs. — Our bishop landlord. — Another ride over rock and sand. — Gould's Ranche. — Virgin City. — Toquerville. — " Mormon Dixie." — At Isaac Haight's. — Kanarra. — Another misfortune. — Ride to Parowan. — Little Salt Lake. — Arrive at Beaver. —Staging thence to Salt Lake City 301-316

Chapter XX. The Fair Apostate

English homes. — Radical and Conservative; Chartist and Monarchist. — Coming of the ^Mormon missionary. — Simple lives changed. — Voyage to America. — The liand-cart emigration. — Frightful sufferings on the plains. — Death on all sides. — Starved, frozen, torn by the wolves. — The Old Radical finds the Brotlicrhood of IMan. — A young hero. — ^Villie Manson concludes to go West. — Journeys thro' Illinois and Iowa. — Meets a queer party. — The year 1857.— His sufferings. — At Camp Floyd. — Goes to the city. — Sickness and fever. — A familiar face by his pillow 317-331

Chapter XXI. The Fair Apostate — Continued

Hot times in "Zion." — "The Reformation." — Arrival of the hand-cart emigrants. — An epidemic madness. — Horrible reign of lust and fanaticism. — United States officials driven out. — Mormon war begun. — Skill and daring of Mormon guerrillas. — But the Gentile army enters the Valley. — 30,000 Mormons move south. — But return and submit peaceably. — Willie ^lanson's new friends. — More apostates. — John Banks and Tliomas James. — Little ^larian becomes Miss Marian. — And Manson does not understand the change. — In his perplexity he hears doctrine. — And reproof. — But hardens his heart. — A new prophet. — Joseph IMorris. — ]\Iorrisite Camp on the Weber. — Attacked and broken up by the Brighamites. — Murder of the women. — Barbarous killing of Morris and Banks. — Flight of Thomas James. — Exhausted, he lies doAvn to die. — Bcatty and Manson off for Montana. — Relieve James. — War with tho Bannocks. — Desperate encountens. — Four years amid the gold fields. — Manson becomes a 7)ia?i.' — The friends hear that all is peace in Utah. — And together return to " Zion." 332-347

CONTENTS. xi

Chapter XXII. Through Great Tribulatiox

Bright days in Cache Valley. — A brother and a sister restored to fellowship. — Thomas James is again happy with Christina. — But he is a bishop's rival, and that means danger.— " Blood atonement." — A nameless horror.— The man becomes a creature. — Manson perplexed.— " Keep your eye peeled; this is a queer country." — Red-hot discussion of polygamy.— News from James; which is no news.— Anti-Gentile Philippics. — Manson meets Marian.— A good outcome at last. — Astonishing conduct of Elder Briar] y.— Mystery added to mystery.— Another Gentile panic— Murder of Brassfield. — Outrages on Gentile settlers.— ]\Iurder of Dr. Robinson.— Flight of the Gentile prc-emptors. — Sad fate of Tliomas James. — Bishop Warren has his reward. — But heaven is kinder to Christina than her own people.— She finds release in death. — Briarly flies from the Territory.— Marian and Manson.— Their Iowa home.— But Utah is the home of the soul.— And President Grant has given us hope.— Hank Beatty's crime,— Death of his wife. — The Mansons return to Utah. — As their troubles ended with a marriage, their future state is left to faith 348-370

CHAPTER XXIII. SWINGING 'round THE CIRCLE

Off for Soda Springs. — A land of wonders. — A chemical laboratory ten miles square. — Soda by the ton: to be had for the taking. — The "Morrisites" again. — A little run eastward. — Denver. — Lawrence. — St. Louis. — A day in Nauvoo : " Destined capital of a religious empire."— To the new jSTorth-west.— Yankton.— Assassination of Secretary McCook. — Steamboating on the Missouri. — Sioux- City again. — Enterprising, but sensational. — Off for Minnesota. — We enter the Garden State. . . 371-378

Chapter XXIV. Minnesota

Reminiscences of 1859.— The Bois Brules.— Full-blood Chippeways.— Minnesota pineries. — The Red Napoleon of the North-west. — " Hard times " in 1859.- 1 live on corn-bread, hoe corn, and cultivate muscle. — Better times.— Sioux war of 1862. — Blue-earth County. — Mankato. — Journey to St. Paul. — Topography. — St. Anthony's Falls.

Minnehaha. — Journey to Sauk Rapids. — Staging thence northward. — Belle Prairie. — Catholic outposts.— Crow Wing.— Black Pine Forest.— Brainard.— Breaking up the Sabbath.— A Chippeway dance.— Out on the North Pacific R. R.— The barren region.— Down to Red River.— Moorehead.— Navigation to British America.— Fargo.— Westward by construction train.— Dakota's Salt Lake.— Jimtown.— Eastward again.— The lake region.— Scenery on the St. Louis River.— Among the Scandinavians.—" PostofT."- Jay Cooke's Banana Zone 379-389

Chapter XXV. The Way To Oregon

" Let us try the web-feet."— Through Iowa.— Westward from Omaha.— Changes of four years.— My fourteentli trip over the Union Pacific— More trouble iri Utah.— Across the Sierras again.— Up the Sacramento.— Gen. John Bidwell's ranche.— Grapes, figs, apples, and lemons in November.— Reading.— Walk-in Miller's squaw.— His life in jail.— Great forests of the upper Sacramento.— /S'a' C«i7/ow.r.— "Sleeping Dictionary."— Yreka.— Over the mountains.— Klamath River.— Cow Creek.— South Umpqua.— Rosexii CONTENTS.

burgh.— Oregon and California Railroad. — Down llio "Willamette. — "Beaver Lands." — In Portland. — "Such a fog!" — "John Chinaman." — P"irst-cla.-:.s funerals needed. — "Web-feet" maidens. — Shall we go home by sea? — Down the Columbia by steamer. — "High sea running." — "Oh, my head, my stomach! O-o-o! " — The boat goes on end. — The land-liihbi.r.s fall on all side."?. — Better weather. — "On an even keel." — Beauties of the Pacilic. — CajJC Mendoeino. — The Golden Gate. — Once more on lernt. Jinna. 300-405

CIIAPTEE XXVI.

LAS TEXAS Y LOS TKJAXOS.

"G. T. T."— Bad reputation.— " You may go to Iiell, and I'll go to Texas."— The author finds tilings improved. — Tlirough the Indian Territory. — Red River. — Denison. — " Nohth Fohk." — Ilealtliy region. — " Tlie Kjjiral maginnis" o^ " De menin-jeesus." — At Sherman. — Down Main Trinity. — Travels in Collin County. — The Cotton Belt. — In Eliis County. — Navarro and Corsicana. — Insects and other sects. — " A thousand and forty-four legs." — Through Central Te.xas to Houston. — Buffalo Bayou. — Delightful ride to Galveston. — Celebration of San Jacinto. — " Brave Texan : bravest man in the South, sah!" — Delights of the Galveston beach. — Beauties of the island. — Up country. — The land of border romance. — Bob Rock and his brown mestiza. — Hon. "Shack" Roberts. — Some political notes. — A tolerant and liberal State. 406-418

Chapter XXVII. History And Description Of Texas

La Salle. — First Settlement on the coast. — Origin of the border question. — Murder of La Salle. — The murderers murdered. — The missions. — Indios rediicidos. — " Reduced " by prayer and fasting. — The "men of reason." — War between the French and Spanish. — ^lassacrc of San Saba. — Decline of the Missions. — Louisiana ceded to Spain. — Better times in Texas. — Louisiana ceded back to France. — The border question again. — The L'nited States takes a hand. — Fearful murders and robberies. — Magee's expedition.— Desperate battle. — Magee kills himself. — Surrender of his army. — They are barbarously massacred by the Spaniards. — Revolution in INIexico. — More trouble in Texas. — Moses and Stephen Austin. — Ojipression of the Texans. — Revolution. — Heroic defense of the Alamo. — Fannin's command butchered. — Glorious victory of San Jacinto. — Independence and subsequent events. — Descriptive sketch of the State. .... 419-431

Chapter XXVIII. Kansas Revisited

Through the new counties. — "Hard times." — The Grangers' War. — Woman suffrage. — Allen County. — Neosho. — Labette. — The Bender murderers. — Tiieir real fate. — CofTeyville. — Ten square miles of cattle! — "Not a good year for stock, either." — The cattle trails. — ]\Iontgomery County. — Kansas politics. — Tlie Osage diminished Reserve. — Independence City. — Elk River. — Wilson County. — Neodesha. — Kansas cotton. — Into the mound region. — Westward, ho! — Among the flint hills. — South-western Kansas. —General view of the State .... 432-446

Chapter XXIX. Colorado

Westward again. — 1874. — Disappearance of the buffalo. — Reach Denver. — A long rest. — Narrow-guage for Georgetown. — The sublime and beautiful in Clear Creek

CONTEXTS. xiii

Cauon. — Floyd Hill. — Stage to Idaho Springs. — To Georgetown. — 2,000 miners. — But where are the women? — High climbs. — Cool retreats. — Independence Day on the summit of the Rocky Mountains. — Snow banks and iced brooks. — Beauties of the upper parks.— Drive to Gray's Peak. — The September storm.— Climb through snow and ice. — 14,400 feet above the sea. — And a fearful snow-storm in summer. — Down to Denver. — Up to Caribou. — Wild beauty of Boulder Canon and Fulls. — The rich silver lodes. — On the plains again. — Eide to Greeley and Evans. 447-400

Chapter XXX. The Centennial State

Coronado. — Mythologic age of Colorado. — Pike sees his Peak. — The hunters and trappers. — Bloody encounters. — Love, treachery, and retribution. — Gold! — The great rush. — " Pike's Peak." — Society takes shape. — Miners' laws. — People's courts. — Attempts at a Territory. — Successful at last: the 38th State. — Our life in Georgetown. — Griffith Mountain. — "The Holy Cross." — Rich silver mines. — The Dives-Pelican Lode. — Curiosities of mining. — " Sam Wann," or Juan. — Silver by millions. — Southern Colorado. — The White Desert. — Possibilities of the new State. . . . 470-489

Chapter XXXI. The Morjion Murderers

Another year in Utah. — Capture of John D. Lee. — His awful crime. — Mormon madness in 1857. — Assassination of Parley P. Pratt. — The doomed emigrants pass Salt Lake City. — Are harassed as they go south. — Attacked and besieged. — Surrender to Ijce and others. — A plot hatched in hell. — The demon Higby gives the signal. — Fearful scenes of blood. — One hundred and thirty-one Americans fall victims to Mormon malice! — And the Governor of Utah "never heard of it!" — Brigham certifies to a ftlJsehood. — And swears to another. — Strange chain of events leading to discovery. — Lee brought to trial. — Shameful farce of selecting jurymen. — A black case made out. — Brigham's remarkable deposition. 490-511

CHAPTER XXXIL

GUILTY OR NOT GUILTY ?

Astonishing conduct of Mormon jurymen. — They refuse to convict. — But the Mormon Church can not afford to sustain Lee any longer. — They decide to give him up. — Another trial in 1876. — And a Mormon jury convict Lee. — Sentence pronounced by Judge Boreman. — Appeal. — Date of execution postponed to March, 1877. — Executed upon the very spot of his crime. — Lee's final and complete confession. — His last words. — His peaceful and heroic death. — W^as Brigham Young guilty? — Brigham's apologists. — Captain John Codman, Geo. Q. Cannon, Gen. Thomas L. Kane. . . 512-530

CHAPTER XXXIIL

SPIRITUAL WIVES AND CARNAL HUSBANDS.

Does polygamy pay? — Why it engenders poverty. — Utah the poorest of the Territories in funded wealth. — Polygamy engenders deceit. — Dissipates social energy. — And naturally goes along with a theocracy. — Slavish submission of the Mormon laity. — The "Revelation." — And the falsehood that followed it. — Fourteen printed and sworn denials. — Frightful perjury. — Primitive marriage. — Monogamous animals. — Monogamy the rule with all the higher organizations. — Polygamy and Polyandry. — Substantial

XIV CONTENTS.

luinierical iijuality of the sexes. — Otlier evils in Utali. — Duty of Congress. — Shall we liave a Mormon State? 531-548

CHAPTEE XXXIV.

TIIi; NOBLE RED MAN.

The tragedy of June 25th, 1S7G. — Sorrow of the nation. — Sketch of Custer's life. — Hancock's campaign of 1867. — Hancock outwitted by the hostiles. — Custer's first Indian fight. — " Circling." — Massacre of Lieutenant Kidder and party. — Horrid scenes. — General Sully's cam2)aign of 18()8. — Custer's Washita campaign. — Yellowstone Expedition of 1873. — ^lurder of Ilonzinger and Baliran. — Arrest of liain-in-the-Face. — He escapes and swears vengeance against Custer. — Black Hills expedition of 1 874. — Gold in the Hills. — Events of 1875. — Campaign of 1876 against Sitting Bull and Craz.y Horse. — Custer in disgrace at headquarters. — The miserable Belknap affair. — Three columns converge on the hostile camji. — The bloody ending. — Close of the campaign. — Sitting Bull goes to Canada, and Crazy Horse to the happy hunting grounds — perhaps. . . 549-575

CHAPTER XXXV.

"WOMAN SUFFRAGE IN THE TERRITORIES.

" The coming woman." — Has she come in Utah and "Wyoming? — "Woman sufTrage. — A crime in Utah ; a fraud in Wyoming. — A trick' of the priesthood. — Propositions by Senator Pomeroy and Representative Julian. — Folly of such schemes. — Women vote. — And always for the Church as agaiqst liberty. — No Mormon women ever voted for free schools or free siieecli. — Utah law: no marriage act and no dower law. — WVoming. — Woman suffrage adopted as a joke. — How it works. — No difference observable. — Statistics of saloons and "social evils." — Where is the "great moral reform?" — No women in oilice. — Women juries. — Why they were discontinued. — Does the good or evil l^redominate? ............ 5(6-591