Western Wilds, and the men who redeem them. An authentic narrative, embracing an account of seven years travel and adventure in the Far West ... Illustrated

Front matter

■ ■ ■ WESTERN WILDS, AND THE MEN WHO REDEEM THEM AS AUTHENTIC NARRATIVE, EMBBACISG AN ACCOUNT OF SEVEN YEARS TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE IN THE FAR AVEST ; WILD LIFE IN ARIZONA; PERILS OF THE PLAINS; LIFE IN THE CANON AND DEATH ON THE DESERT; THRILLING SCENES AND ROMANTIC INCI- DENTS IN THE LIVES OF AVESTERN PIONEERS; ADVENTURES AMONG THE RED AND AVHITE SAA'AGES OF THE AVEST; A FULL ACCOUNT OF THE MOUNTAIN MEADOAV MASSACRE; THE CUSTER DEFEAT; LIFE AND DEATH OF BRIGHAM YOUNG, ETC. BY J. H. BEADLE, Author of Life in Utah ; Western Coi-respondent Cincinnati Commercial, etc. ILLUSTRATED. JONES BBOTHERS & COMPANY: CINCINNATI, PHILADELPHIA, CHICAGO, MEMPHIS. 1878. Copyright, 1877, by John T. Jones. ELECTROTYPED AT FRANKLIN TYPE FOUNDRY, CINCINNATI. In Avriting this Avork the author had tAvo objects in view: to interest the reader ; and to tell the exact truth about the country west of the Mississippi.

As to the first, there is neither argument nor assertion; the reader can only judge for himself after perusal. But, as to the second, the author firmly believes he has accomplished it. The Far West is an immense region, and no one man ever visited all sections of it. The most to be expected is that each traveler shall seize upon the salient features of certain portions, and describe them in popular style. I have labored earnestly to give, facts in regard to the lands still open to settlement; and I haA-e been especially careful to correct certain errors as to soil and climate Avhich I find very common in the East. We often hear it confidently asserted, and by those Avho ought to knoAV, that "the American Desert is a myth — there is no desert in the West." I am sorry this statement is not true; but if there are not at least 300,000 square miles of utterly barren land, then "mine eyes are made the fools o' the other senses," for I haA'e lived and traveled many a Aveek Avhere not one acre in a hundred is fertile.

I have aimed to avoid personalities, but I can not altogether refrain from harsh expressions as to the misstatements made in many land circulars ; or the colored falsehoods of many maps, made "to invite immigration." Some critics Avill object that the work contains rather more about Utah and the Mormons than the subject Avarrants; and it is, perhaps, but natural that one should Avrite at length on that which most interests him. But I apprehend this Utah question is one on which Americans generally -need information; it is liable to call for prompt action by goA'ernment at any time, and the people should be prepared to sustain their JRepresentatives in all constitutional means to relieve the Nation of this disgrace. The author has been accused of undue prejudice against Brigham Young and other Mormon leaders; more space is therefore given to the legal evidence of their crimes than is usual in a popular Avork.

Preface

. SAvorn and cross-examined, to shoAV that my narratiA'e of eight years ago was by far too mild ; that in eA'ery charge then made against the Mormon Church I Avas Avithin the truth. Nor do I admit that all the black details are yet knoAvn. Evidence is yet to be developed Avhich will convince the most skeptical that Brigham Young was the accomplice and shield of murderers. This is a hard saying, but rest assured it will be proved. If I have assumed too much in making myself an advocate for the political and civil rights of the Gentile minority in Utah, that minority can easily signify the same to their friends in the East Avho care to inquire. The Americans in Utah Avent there from the States, and did not change their natures when they changed their residence; they love liberty, and desire a share in the local goA'ernment for the same reasons they did in the East.

They haA'e fought a good fight; they have accomplished much, and Avill do more. If my criticisms upon Gen. Thomas L. Kane and other apologists for Brigham appear severe, the record is presented to show their errors. The record condemns them — not I. Of course there has been a great deal of twaddle and romance on the part of the opponents of Mormonism — there always is in matters of popular discussion; but the nearer Ave keep to admitted facts, the more clearly Ave see that, on the main question, they are radically right, and Brigham's apologists radically Avrong. Polygamy and incest are admitted and defended in Utah; and it is a fair assumption that men Avho violate laAV in tAvo such important particulars, will violate it in others, if their interest seems to require it. But, as mere inference is not enough in such matters, I haA'e, as aforesaid, giA'en more evidence than the aim and style of the Avork Avould have made desirable.

Five million Americans expect to go West. There should be a neAv Avork on that section, Avritten by some careful observer, at least once a year; for the changes there are many and rapid. Doubtless so plain a presentation of the discouraging features, as is here given, will have a depressing effect upon the ardent; but it is best to knoAV the truth. There is not as much room for us to grow in that direction as is popularly supposed, and Americans can not find it out too soon. So much for the main object of this work — truth. As to the interest in the narrative — kind reader, excuse me; I touch your hand, and without further apology introduce you to My Book. J. H. B. Columbus, Ohio, October 1, 1877.

Chapter I. The Haavkea'es

I make a start. — Fair Iowa. — Yankee, Hoosier, Buckeye, and Scandinavian.— The Aryan wave. — Hoosier grammar. — Sorrows of the non-resident land-owner. — "The walled lakes."— Greatness of the Border States.— " Hoss high, bull strong, and pig tight."— The 'hoppers.— "Omahawgs" and "Omahens."— "Milkville" and "Bilkville."— Rural Nebraska. — Agricultural wealth. — Pawnees, Otoes, Omahaws. — The Bedouin instinct.—" Go West." . 17-24

Chapter II

A WESTERN CHARACTER. Unsung heroes. — Scenes in Southern Kansas. — " Shuck up." — " Fevernager." — My host's story. — He leaves Tennessee for New Orleans. — "Chawin' rags for a paper mill." — Up into the Cherokee country. — Another run to New Orleans. — Walk home through the " Injun " country. — Murder of Mclntosh and others. — War between the Rossites and Ridgeitcs. — Exposure and fever. — Delirium. — Rescued by the " little Cherokee girl." — Home again. — Joe and Myra. — More trouble with the Cherokees. — Journey to Iowa. — In danger from the " Danites." — Mrs. Joe's " tantrums." — Captured by the Hawkeyes. — Interview with Judge Lynch. — Horrible murder of Miller and Liecy. — Hanging of the Hodges. — Terrible times on the Half-breed Tract. — The Califor nia excitement. — Start from Independence. — Troubles on the way. — Danger and death on the great desert. — Among the gold hunters. — More murders. — Return to Tennessee. — The great war. — Death of the boys. — Removal to Indian Territory. — "Won't there be peace while I live?"— Rest at last 25-44

Chapter III. The Journey To Utah

Flush times in Omaha. — Some characters. — Will Wylie's escape. — "Seen the Elephant." — "A neck-tie sociable." — "Coppered on the jack."— Apostate Mormons' caravan.— Up the slope to Cheyenne.—" Dirty Jule's."— The Plains.—" Magic City."— Passage of the Black Hills.— Virginia Dale. — Laramie Plains. — Benton. — Alkali Desert. — Evanescent "cities."— Bear River City.— Battle with the roughs.— More Mormons.— "Catfish with legs."— Horrors of Bitter Creek.— Green River.— Bridger Plains. — The author a mule-whacker. — Grandeur of Echo Canon. — Weber Valley. — Up to Parley's Park.— Down Parley's Canon.— First view of the Salt Lake.—" City of the Saints." — I become a Gentile sinner 45-55 (v) VI CONTENTS.

Chapter IV. Geffkoy's Trials

On Griffith Mountain, Colorado. — "Are we the authors of our own destiny?" — Geffroy's narrative answers. — Beautiful Geneva. — Frenchy fancies vs. German phlegm. — A young enthusiast. — Hunting the Brotherhood of Man. — At New Harmony, Indiana. — Failure of Communism. — At Nauvoo. — At Communia. — On the plains. — Enlist with the Texan patriots of '43. — Bright pictures. — Stern realities. — " The River of Souls." — The tierras templadas.— In the Wild Canon. — Posted on the Taos Trail. — Another frightful march. — Down to the Cimarron. — Another trial of the desert. — Night attack on the Mexican camp. — Victory, followed in turn by flight. — Loss of the horses. — Geffroy and friend go after them. — Surrounded by Mexicans. — A dash for life. — Headlong leap into the chasm. — Oblivion, or death? . . 56-71

Chapter V. Dolores

Return to consciousness. — Laid up in the cabin. — Love and convalescence. — The captured Americans. — Dolores' plan. — The parting. — Gomez and the Pueblos. — Halt at Jemez. — Meeting the Navajoes. — A land of wonders. — Among the Moquis.— A simple, civil, and unwarlike race. — A race without envy or covetousness. — Joyful meeting with Dolores. — Los Diabolos Gringos. — Flight for the north. — Lost on the desert. — The horrors of thirst. — Another day of anguish. — Life in the rock. — "With our lips pressed to the rock we drew new life." — Hope revived. — Pursuit by the Mexicans. — Wounding and death of Dolores. — Agony of Geffroy. — Enlists as a soldier. — The war in Mexico.— Revisits Switzerland. — 1848: the year of Revolutions. — In the army of Baden. — Capture and long imprisonment. — Liberty, when hope was dead. — Return to the Far West. — " The Brotherhood of Man comes not by spasmodic struggles, but by steady toil." 72-89

Chapter VI. Polygamia

I meet Brigham & Co. — Topography of his kingdom. — I reside there a year. — And become a hated Gentile. — Mormon notabilities: Brigham, Orson Pratt, Hooper, Geo. A. Smith. — " The One-eyed Pirate of the Wasatch." — Polygamy, Bigamy, Brighamy, Mo nogamy, and other gamies. — Utah politics. — Noted Gentiles. — Liberal Mormons. — Credu lous skeptics. — " No trade with non-Mormons." — Consequent troubles. — Persecution of dissenters. — Journey to Sevier. — Beauties of Pine Gulch. — Return to " Zion." — " There's a. better day coming." — Religious lying. — Perjury " for Christ's sake." . . 90-102

Chapter VII. The Pacific Slope

Westward again. — Corinne. — Promontory.— Dead Fall, Murder Gulch, Last Chance, and Painted Post. — "Do me a favor: shoot me through the head!" — Fine morality of the gamblers. — The Great Nevada Desert. — " Sinks."— Up the Truckee. — State Line. — Down the Sierras. — Wonders of Cape Horn.— Sacramento. — " San Jocykwinn." — Or San Wahkeen? — In Yolo County. — Davisville. — Chinese and silk culture. — Tides. — Fruits CONTENTS. VII and wine. — Does it supersede whisky? — The California seasons. — "Frisco." — Chinese Theater. — The tragedy of Rip Sah. — Buddhist ceremonies. — A gloomy sort of religion. — " Top-side Josh." — The devil-drive. — " Chinaman like Melica man." . . 103-116

Chapter VIII. Two Years Of Change

Utah and trouble.— "Mormon hospitality." — The author mobbed and badly hurt, but recovers rapidly. — Healing air of the mountains. — Rich mineral discoveries in Utah. — The Gentiles take heart. — The Emma Mine. — I go to Washington as a lobbyist. — And don't like it. — Further travels in Utah. — Polygamy again. — Rev. J. P. Newman shows that there are but thirteen polygamists mentioned in the Bible. — And hundreds of good monogamists. — Orson Pratt comes back at him. — High times in the Taber nacle. — Some of the nasty features of polygamy. — Such as incest and indecency. — A A'il lage composed of Taylors. — And one made up of Winns. — General view of the Territory.— And of the Far West . . 117-128

Chapter IX. The Missouri Valley

Kansas City: a modern Rome. — We look at it, but do not invest. — The "Land of Zion."— Lawrence.— " The Wakarusa War."— The Massacre of 1 863.— The Athens of the West. — Our journey southward: The Leavenworth, Lawrence, and Galveston Road. — Ottawa.— Western Yankees. — " Brother K 's blooded mare." — " Buffalo stamps." — A progressive country. — Fertility of Allen and Neosho counties. — An incorrigible old man. — Cherryvale. — The beautiful mounds. — The social Kansian. — " Sna-a-a-kes!" — Northward to Leavenworth. — Quindaro Chindowun. — "A second Babylon." — Wyandotte. — Atchison. — Troy. — St. Joe. — Up the Missouri Valley. — Council Bluffs. — Omaha. — On northward. — Sioux City. — Onawa. — Woodbury. — Staging to Yankton. — Dakotians: French, Scandinavians, and Bohemians. — "Woman's Rights:" to do as much work as she can. — The gentle savage. — Iapi Oahye! — " Portable talk." — Northern Dakota. — Western Dakota. — We leave suddenly for California 129-139

Chapter X. The Avonders Of California

All aboard for Yosemite ! — From chilly " Frisco " to melting Stockton. — By rail to Milton. — Hot drive among the foot-hills. — Copperopolis. — The broiling stage; air dead calm; thermometer 100°. — In the cool grove at last.— The vegetable wonders of the world. — A tree thirty-two feet thick.—" Father and Mother."—" Husband and Wife," 250 feet high. — "Uncle Tom's Cabin." — How came they here? — California names. — Over Table Mountain. — "Truthful James."— Old mining towns.— Sonora.— Chinese Camp. — Garrote. — The Tuolumne Grove. — Tamarack Flat.— Reminiscences of the "strong-minded." — First view of Yosemite. — Prospect Peak. — The terrible descent. — A fall of 2,667 feet.— El Capitan: Tu-ioch-ah-nu-la.—h. reverie on Cosmos.— Mirror Lake. — Reflected glories.— The climb to Nevada Falls.— Down by Vernal Falls.— The sublime and beautiful. — J. M. Hutchings, the pioneer.—" Spirit of the Evil Wind."— "Great Chief of the Valley."— Down hill to San Francisco.— Climate of the Coast. — A day at 'the Cliff Kouse.—Poluphloisboio Thalasses.— Regretful good-bye to the Pacific Coast 140-163 CONTENTS.

Chapter XI. Utah Argentifera

Gentiles after silver: Mormons after the Gentiles. — " Revelations" and prospecting. — > Up Little Cottonwood. — The silver lodes — Snow-slides. — 12,000 feet above the sea. — Bald Peak, and a view of 20,000 square miles. — Big Cottonwood Caflon. — The great fire. — American Fork Canon: the Yosemite of Utah. — Mormon farmers vs. Gentile mountain eers. — " The Republic of Tooele." — East Caflon and horn silver. — Chloride Cave. — Dry Canon. — Wild times in the West Mountains. — A Goshoot feast. — I start to Dugway. — - And get lost on the desert. — A lonesome night. — Danger and weariness. — Ninety miles travel in twenty-seven hours. — Independence Day on Great Salt Lake. — "No gulls in Utah before the Mormons came." — Sailing on the Lake. — Mines in southern Utah. — Beaver City. — Mineral wealth of the Territory. — Shall we annex Utah to Ne vada? 164-181

Chapter XII

A CHAPTER OF BETWEENS. Joe AUkire talks. — Valley tan whisky calls up reminiscences. — " A bad streak o' luck." — " Sod-corn barefooted." — Millerites. — " Misses Chew splits the choir." — The grand dog-fight. — Which broke up a town. — " That yaller and spotted dog." — Abraham and the preacher clinch. — " No Morgan-killers need apply." — " The head abolishinists." — Si Duvall's luck. — Union Flats becomes very flat. — Other reminiscences. — Men who had tried many fields. — Story of the mountaineer. — Will and Bob McAfee. — Camp in Arkansas Caflon. — The storm, and falling timber. — Dreadful alternative of the un wounded brother. — He "relieves" the other's torture. — And dies of grief and remorse : 182-193

Chapter XIII. Oklahoma

A new route to the Pacific. — I enter the Indian Territory. — Vinita. — "White Chero kees." — Cabin Creek. — Mixed bloods. — "It comes back on 'em." — Christian Indians. — Muscogee.— Also Muskokee. — The Creeks at home. — Ala-bah-ma: "Here we rest." — Natchees and Hitchitees. — An Aboriginal Democracy.— House of Kings and House of Warriors. — Pahly hohkohlen. — Tallahassee Mission. — The Muskokee in love. — " Beautiful River." — Brad Collins and his gang. — Oklahoma vs. Okmulkee. — Red hot on temperance. — In the Choctaw country. — Tandy Walker. — Among the Cherokees. — The Big Rattling Gourd and other politicians. — Cherokee history. — Civilized Indians of the Territory.— What shall we do with them? .... . . 194-211

Chapter XIV. Journey To The Rio Grande

Northward again. — Out on the Kansas Pacific.— A beautiful country. — Ellsworth. — Carnival of crime in 1867.— "Wild Bill."— J. H. Runkle— "Rake Jake."— "Dad Smith." — "Shall we have a man for breakfast? " — Heroic, but murderous. — Bisons and business. — Arrival at Denver. — Rest and enjoyment. — Southward by the narrow-guage railway. — The Divide. — Timbered region. — Colorado City — Take stage-coach. — Pueblo. — Night in the stage. — Cocharas. — The senoritas. — Another day of staging. — Trinidad. — The Raton Mountains. — Down upon the New Mexican side. — Wild scenes. — Maxwell's Ranche. — Passage of the Rocky Ridge. — A snow storm and a grizzly. — Down to Santa CONTENTS. IX Fe. — Disappointed with the city. — A queer old town. — High-sounding names. — Indian troubles. — Starting for Fort Wingate. — La Bajada. — Quien Sabe? — Pueblos Indians. — Valley of the Rio Grande. — Albuquerque — The genie fina. — The " Greasers." — Will they ever amount to any thing ? 212-229

Chapter XV. Tolteccan

The oldest inhabitant. — Alvar Nunez, etc., traverses New Mexico. — What he saw and how he lied about it. — " The Seven Cities of Cibola." — Conquest of New Mexico. — Revolt of the Pueblos. — Second Conquest. — High-toned grandees. — Caste. — Sad (?) occurrence. — Should the Territory be made a State? — Citizen Indians. — Queer old cus toms. — Parental authority. — Enterprise. — The universal burro. — We cross the Rio Grande. — And enter on the desert. — The awful, the unutterable desert. — Sufferings from thirst. — Reach "Hog River." — Dead Man's Canon. — Another desert. — Oasis of El Rito. — Degenerate Spaniards. — Pueblo de Laguna. — An Aztec relic. — El Cubero. — "Women's Rights." — Mala Pais. — Agua Azul. — The extinct volcano. — Drive to Fort Wingate. — My companion comes to grief. — Ojo del oso. — Zuni. — Stinking Springs. — The Puerco of the West— Down to Fort Defiance 230-248

Chapter XVI. Wild Life In Arizona

The gathering. — Canon Benito. — Handsome Indian girls. — Navajo patience. — A mixed tongue. — " Slim-man-with-a-white-eye." — El-soo-see En-now-lo-kyh. — " Big Quill." — Murder of Agent Miller. — Sorrow of the Navajoes. — Their kindness and courtesy. — Off for a trip. — My Navajo guide. — " Tohh klohh no mas." — Descent into Canon deChelley. — Wonders on wonders. — The " cliff cities." — Moonlight in the canon. — Out again on the desert. — An awful passage. — The hot alkali plains. — Thirst and suffering. — " Hah-koh, Melicano.'"— Approach to the Moqui towns. — Amazement of the inhabitants.— The city set on a rock. — The strangest people in the world. — Chino and Misiamtewah. — The Moquis welcome me gladly. .......... 249-L67

Chapter XVII. Among The Aztecs

Topography of Arizona. — A region of hot sands and barren mountains, of fierce savages and gentle Indians, of rich mines and wild, forbidding wastes.— The Mesa Ca labasa— Zunis, Teguas, Moquis, Oraybes, Papagoes, Pimos, and Coco-Maricopas — Rapid decay of the wild tribes.— Noble Navajoes.— Their native shrewdness, industry and bravery.— Who are they?— Aztecs?— Barboncito— Ganado Mucho. — Their handi work.—Their temperance and endurance.— Life at Moqui.— "Ho, Melicano, messay vol"— Jesus Papa.— Moqui theology.— The "white Indians" of Arizona.— Ruins.— Aztec or Toltec?— Comparison with mound-builders' remains.— And South American Ruins. — Only a theory. — Which no one is bound to accept 268-286

Chapter XVIII. From Moqui To The Colorado

Two hundred miles of desert.— Aboriginal mail service.— A new guide.— His nel sooss—Good-bye, Chino !— Journey to the new Navajo camp— "Damn Espaflol, shteal mooch."— On the sandstone mesa.— A pleasant party of four.—" Todos muertos, pero mas X CONTENTS. Apaches.'"— Another sandstone waste.— First view of the river, 5,000 feet below us.— Getting down the cliff— Water and salts.— At the river at last.— No boats.— Perilous passage.— The white woman: "My God, stranger, did you risk your life to swim that river? "—The Mormon convert's story.— Three days at the ferry.— Parting from my Na vajo friends 287-300

Chapter XIX

A STARTLING INTERA'IEW. I meet with a surprise. — " Major Doyle " proves to be John D. Lee. — And tells me the story of his crime. — He describes the events leading to the Mountain Meadow Massacre.— Character of the murdered emigrants. — They are charged with being enemies of the Mormon people. — The latter incensed.— And determined on revenge. — Did they poison the spring? — Or murder friendly Indians? — Outrage on Mrs. Evans. — The Mormon Council.— Death of the emigrants determined upon. — The closing tragedy. — Lee's excuses and subterfuges. — His further history. — A story horrible enough for the most inveterate sensationalist. — I bid the Lees good-bye. — And with no regrets. — Grand caflon of the Colorado.— Ride to Jacob's Pool.— Thence to Spring-in-Rock — Lonely camping out.— My solitary journey to Kanab.— The Pi-Ede band of savages. — " Toh, agua, water!"— Rest at Kanab.— Jacob Hamlin.— The Powell party.— On the desert again.— Pipe Springs. — Our bishop landlord.— Another ride over rock and sand. — Gould's Ranche.— Virgin City.— Toquerville— " Mormon Dixie."— At Isaac Haight's — Kanarra. — Another misfortune.— Ride to Parowan. — Little Salt Lake. — Arrive at Beaver. —Staging thence to Salt Lake City. ' 301-316

Chapter XX. The Fair Apostate

English homes. — Radical and Conservative; Chartist and Monarchist. — Coming of the Mormon missionary. — Simple lives changed. — Voyage to America. — The hand-cart emigration. — Frightful sufferings on the plains. — Death on all sides.— Starved, frozen, torn by the wolves. — The Old Radical finds the Brotherhood of Man. — A young hero. — Willie Manson concludes to go West. — Journeys thro' Illinois and Iowa. — Meets a queer party.— The year 1857.— His sufferings. — At Camp Floyd. — Goes to the city. — Sickness and fever. — A familiar face by his pillow 317-331

Chapter XXI. The Fair Apostate

— CONTINUED. Hot times in "Zion." — "The Reformation." — Arrival of the hand-cart emigrants. — An epidemic madness. — Horrible reign of lust and fanaticism. — United States officials driven out. — Mormon war begun. — Skill and daring of Mormon guerrillas. — But the Gentile army enters the Valley. — 30,000 Mormons move south. — But return and submit peaceably. — Willie Manson's new friends. — More apostates. — John Banks and Thomas James. — Little Marian becomes Miss Marian. — And Manson does not understand the change. — In his perplexity he hears doctrine. — And reproof. — But hardens his heart. — A new prophet. — Joseph Morris. — Morrisite Camp on the Weber. — Attacked and broken up by the Brighamites. — Murder of the women. — Barbarous killing of Morris and Banks. — Flight of Thomas James. — Exhausted, he lies down to die. — Beatty and Man son off for Montana. — Relieve James. — War with the Bannocks. — Desperate encounters. — Four years amid the gold fields. — Manson becomes a man.' — The friends hear that all is peace in Utah.— And together return to " Zion." 332-347 CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XXII. Through Great Tribulation

Bright days in Cache Valley.— A brother and a sister restored to fellowship.— Thomas James is again happy with Christina.— But he is a bishop's rival, and that means danger.— " Blood atonement." — A nameless horror.— The man becomes a creature. —Manson perplexed.— " Keep your eye peeled; this i3 a queer country."— Red-hot dis cussion of polygamy.— News from James; which is no news— Anti-Gentile' Philippics.— Manson meets Marian.— A good outcome at last.— Astonishing conduct of Elder Bri arly.—Mystery added to mystery.— Another Gentile panic— Murder of Brassfield.— Outrages on Gentile settlers.— Murder of Dr. Robinson.— Flight of the Gentile pre-emptors — Sad fate of Thomas James. — Bishop Warren has his reward. — But heaven is kinder to Christina than her own people.— She finds release in death.— Briarly flies from the Territory.— Marian and Manson. — Their Iowa home.— But Utah is the home of the soul.— And President Grant has given us hope.— Hank Beatty's crime.— Death of his wife. — The Mansons return to Utah. — As their troubles ended with a marriage, their future state is left to faith 348-370

Chapter XXIII. Savinging

'ROUND THE CIRCLE. Off for Soda Springs. — A land of wonders. — A chemical laboratory ten miles square." — Soda by the ton: to be had for the taking. — The "Morrisites" again. — A lit tle run eastward. — Denver. — Lawrence. — St. Louis. — A day in Nauvoo: "Destined capital of a religious empire." — To the new North-west. — Yankton. — Assassination of Secretary McCook. — Steamboating on the Missouri. — Sioux City again. — Enterprising, but sensational. — Off for Minnesota. — We enter the Garden State. . . 371-378

Chapter XXIV. Minnesota

Reminiscences of 1859. — The Bois Brules. — Full-blood Chippeways. — Minnesota pineries. — The Red Napoleon of the North-west. — " Hard times " in 1859. — I live on corn-bread, hoe corn, and cultivate muscle. — Better times. — Sioux war of 1862. — Blue earth County. — Mankato.— Journey to St. Paul. — Topography. — St. Anthony's Falls. — Minnehaha. — Journey to Sauk Rapids. — Staging thence northward. — Belle Prairie. — Catholic outposts. — Crow Wing. — Black Pine Forest. — Brainard. — Breaking up the Sab bath. — A Chippeway dance. — Out on the North Pacific R. R. — The barren region. — Down to Red River. — Moorehead. — Navigation to British America. — Fargo. — Westward by construction train. — Dakota's Salt Lake. — Jimtown. — Eastward again. — The lake region. — Scenery on the St. Louis River. — Among the Scandinavians. — " Postoff." — Jay Cooke's Banana Zone 379-389

Chapter XXV. The Way To Oregon

" Let us try the web-feet." — Through Iowa. — Westward from Omaha. — Changes of four years. — My fourteenth trip over the Union Pacific. — More trouble in Utah. — Across the Sierras again.— Up the Sacramento. — Gen. John Bidwell's ranche. — Grapes, figs, apples, and lemons in November. — Reading. — Walk-in Miller's squaw. — His life in jail. — Great forests of the upper Sacramento. — Six Cailloux. — "Sleeping Dictionary." — Yreka.— Over the mountains. — Klamath River. — Cow Creek. — South Umpqua. — Rose- CONTENTS. burgh.— Oregon and California Railroad.— Down the Willamette.— "Beaver Lands."— In Portland. — "Such a fog!" — "John Chinaman." — First-class funerals needed. — "Web feet" maidens. — Shall we go home by sea? — Down the Columbia by steamer. — "High sea running." — " Oh, my head, my stomach !

O-o-o ! " — The boat goes on end. — The land-lubbers fall on all sides. — Better weather. — " On an even keel." — Beauties of the Pacific— Cape Mendocino. — The Golden Gate. — Once more on terra firma. 390-405

Chapter XXVI. Las Texas

Y LOS TEJANOS. " G. T. T."— Bad reputation.—" You may go to hell, and I'll go to Texas."— The author finds things improved. — Through the Indian Territory. — Red River. — Deni son. — " Nohth Fohk." — Healthy region. — "The spiral maginnis " or " De menin jeesus." — At Sherman. — Down Main Trinity. — Travels in Collin County. — The Cotton Belt. — In Ellis County. — Navarro and Corsicana. — Insects and other sects. — " A thousand and forty-four legs." — Through Central Texas to Houston. — Buffalo Bayou. — De lightful ride to Galveston. — -Celebration of San Jacinto. — " Brave Texan : bravest man in the South, sah ! " — Delights of the Galveston beach. — Beauties of the island. — Up country. — The land of border romance. — Bob Rock and his brown mestiza. — Hon. "Shack" Roberts. — Some political notes. — A tolerant and liberal State. 406-418

Chapter XXVII. History And Description Of Texas

La Salle. — First Settlement on the coast. — Origin of the border question. — Murder of La Salle. — The murderers murdered. — The missions. — Indios reducidos. — " Reduced " by prayer and fasting. — The " men of reason." — War between the French and Spanish. — - Massacre of San Saba. — Decline of the Missions. — Louisiana ceded to Spain. — Better times in Texas. — Louisiana ceded back to France. — The border question again. — The United States takes a hand. — Fearful murders and robberies. — Magee's expedition. — Des perate battle. — Magee kills himself. — Surrender of his army. — They are barbarously massacred by the Spaniards. — Revolution in Mexico. — More trouble in Texas. — Moses and Stephen Austin. — Oppression of the Texans. — Revolution. — Heroic defense of the Alamo. — Fannin's command butchered. — Glorious victory of San Jacinto. — Independence and subsequent events. — Descriptive sketch of the State. .... 419-431