The undeveloped West

Front matter

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Preface

Another book on the West ! Yes, and why not ? The West is the future home of millions now living in the East, and there is more that ought to be known of its wonders and capabilities than is likely to be published by the few who have devoted tliemselves to the work. There ought to be a new book on the West, by some careful observer and thorough explorer, at least once a year ; for so many and so various are the changes, so important the new discoveries, that a volume is but thoroughly read before the facts it narrates are old.

The undeveloped portions of the West make up an immense area, and no one can flatter himself that he has thoroughly explored it. The most that can be expected is, that each traveler shall seize upon the salient features of certain sections and portray them to the popular mind. No man can hope in the short space of five years to see all of the undeveloped West.. Arizona alone deserves years of careful study, and New Mexico is still almost an unknown region to Americans, containing material for a vast deal of investigation.

This work is simjDly a personal record of my five years'

PREFACE.

travel and residence in the new States and Territories — where I went, what I did, what I saw and what I thought about it. Two points, however, of practical interest I have kept steadily in view : to give carefully arranged facts in regard to the lands still open to settlement; and to correct a number of popular errors in regard to soil and climate. The chapters treating specifically on lands in Kansas, Nebraska, Iowa, Minnesota, Dakota, California, Oregon and Texas, it is hoped, will aid in the first object; in regard to the second object, I have pointed out most of the prevailing errors — to call them by no harsher name — found in numerous land circulars and railroad reports, and refuted them by a general statement of facts.

It was my prime object to make this work a startling novelty in one respect : by telling the exact truth about the particular points to which settlers are most urgently invited. If my views and conclusions on the Northern Pacific Railroad lands, and some other sections, differ very greatly from the reports of officials and their guests heretofore published, the reader must judge whether the difference is my misfortune or their fault. Having stated the objects of the work, the difficulties in the way of its execution, and the points where most criticism may be expected, I submit it to the public without further apology. J. H. B.

EvANSViLLE, Indiana, Ma?/ 15, 1873.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

1. General View of the Yosemite Valley Frontispiece.

2. The Great Canon and Lower Falls of the Yellowstone page 3

3. Rock Pinnacles above Tower Falls, Yellowstone River 5

4. In Camp with the Outlaw Navajoes 17

5. Lake — and Mt. Tamalpais in the Distance 23

6. Mormon Tabernacle — Endowment House in the Distance 27

7. A Basin on the Columbia River — and Mountain Peak in the Distance. 29

8. Down the Canon 31

9. "Go West, Young Man; Go West!" 34

10. Autograph Letter 36

11. Afoot through Iowa 39

12. Outlet of " Wall Lake." 44

13. Doubling Teams in " Hell Slough." 47

14. Crossing the Plains 54

15. Stage Crossing the Desert , 56

16. Needs a Haversack 57

17. "Wanted: Light and Genteel Employment." 64

18. Omaha City 66

19. Scene Near Fontanelle 68

20. Scene Near Papillion, Nebraska 76

21. River-Depot, Union Pacific R. R., Omaha 80

22. " Dog-Town "—Union Pacific R. R 83

23. Indians Attacking U. S. Mail Coach 84

24. Pastimes of the Noble Red Man 86

25. In the Hands of the Vigilantes 89'

26. In the "Big Tent," Benton, Wyoming Territory 91

27. The Author as a " Mulewhacker." > 97

28. Night-School of Theology 101

29. Scene in Echo Canon 105

30. " Rather Open at the Sides." 107

31. Salt Lake City (From the North) 109

32. Orson Pratt, One of the Twelve Apostles 110

33. George A.Smith Ill

34. Brigham Young 118

2 17

18 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIOXS.

35. First Settler at Corinne page 120

oG. " Sunday-Night Amusements." 121

37. For the Benefit of Corinne 123

38. "Opening a Farm "— Hatte Talley 129

39. Cheyennes Eeconnoitering tlie First Train 133

40. Chief Justice of Wyoming 135

41. Pyramid Rocks 137

42. Pulpit Rock, Echo Canon 139

43. Off for the Sevier Mines 143

44. On a Family Ticket 145

45. "You Go Hunt 'Em!" 147

46. Lake Tahoe 155

47. Humboldt Palisades 159

49. Placer Mining 162

51. Central Pacific Railroad in the Sierra Nevadas 164

52. Interior of Palace-Car on Central Pacific 166

53. Sacramento 168

54. Shoshonee Falls — Idaho 170

55. Geysers, Pluton River, California 172

57. In the Josh House 179

58. AhChing's Theology 181

59. Entrance to the Quicksilver Mine of New Almaden, California 182

60. The Author receives Mormon Hospitality 185

61. Orson Hyde, President of the Twelve Apostles 187

62. Domesticated Piute 188

63. Bear River Valley — North of Corinne 189

64. " The Senator is Engaged, Sah." 192

65. Brigham Young's Residences, Salt Lake City 195

Q6. First Hotel in Lawrence 200

67. "Don't Mention it, Deacon." 205

68. On Rock Creek— Allen Co., Kansas 208

69. Mounds on the Verdigris 212

70. Spouting Geyser 215

71. The Emigrant's Dream of Kansas 217

72. Kioways Killing Buffalo 219

73. Buffalo Hunters in Camp 221

74. Ca.stle Garden— the Emigrant's First View of America 232

75. A Bad Case of Trichina 2.34

76. Woman's Rights in Dakota 240

77. Any Port in a Storm 241

78. Approach to Black Hills— Dakota 242

79. Winter Camp of the Friendly Dakotahs 244

80. Surveyor's Camp— Central Dakota '240

81. Outline of Yoscmite page 252

82. A Monster 25.3

83. Hydraulic Mining 254

84. The Two Guardsmen 255

85. A Cotillon Party Dancing on the Mammoth Tree 256

86. Auger-Holes through the Big Tree (Showing how it was Felled) 258

87. The Fallen Monarch 259

88. The Pioneer's Cabin : " Eoom for Twelve Inside " 260

89. Something of a Stump 261

90. First Log Hut in Mariposa Grove 262

, 91. Bridal Veil Fall •••• 264

92. Cathedral Rocks 268

93. A Native of the Valley 270

94. El Capitan, 3300 Feet High 271

95. Sentinel Rock • 275

96. The Yosemite Falls 276

97. North Dome and Royal Arches 278

98. South or Half Dome 279

99. Mirror Lake; Watkins' and Clouds' Rest 281

100. Vernal Falls ; 350 Feet High •'• 283

101. Nevada Falls ; 700 Feet High 285

102. Down by Venial Falls , 286

103. Liberty Cap (Mt. Broderick) 288

104. Bird's-Eye View of San Francisco 291

105. TheMinerwho "Struck it Rich." 294

107. A Sunday Festival of the Foreign Classes., 299

108. Sunday Evening on Dupont Street 301

109. Underground in the Barbaiy Coast 303

110. At the Bella Union 305

111. The First San Francisco Destroyed • 307

112. An Anti-Goat-Island Meeting 308

113. The Days when California had no Families 310

114. Woodward's Gardens — a Fashionable Resort of San Francisco 312

115. Chinese Theatre — on .Jackson Street 315

116. Chinese Merchant on Post Street 317

117. Chan Laisun 320

118. Mrs. Laisun and Daughters 3'-^

119. Chinese Students— now at Springfield, Mass 324

120. A High Caste Mandarin 325

121. At "Brown and Sloper's." 327

122. Little Pleasantries of a Mining Camp 330

123. Prospecting Party — in Utah 332

124. Over to Big Cottonwood 337

125. In the West .Jordan Mine 34:!

126. On Lion Hill— Ophir District 34 J

127. Vertical Section of a Quartz Mine page 347

128. One Language — two "Smiles." 350

129. My Cherokee Friends 356

130. " Moss Agates." 365

131. Amusements at Muscogee 370

132. Raising a Native 373

133. At the Creek Agency 375

134. A Creek Charon 379

135. At the Mission 382

136. " Shorthandlo." 385

137. Curing Snake-Bite 389

138. Ok-ta-ha-sars-ha-go 391

140. Pre-emptor's Cabin 395

141. Lively Times on the Canadian 398

142. At Tandy Walker's 400

143. Forest Scene 405

144. At Widow Skrimshee's 407

145. Fight at Going Snake Court House 410

146 Gen. Marion in the Cherokee Country 413

147. The LastCrj- of the Cherokee 416

148. Cherokee Legislature 422

149. An Osage Chief 425

150. "Man for Breakfast." 435

151. In the Buffalo Country 437

153. Gray's Peak — Colorado ••• 440

154. Georgetown — Colorado 442

155. Fii"st Lesson in Spanish 445

156. "Caraja! Los Nervios!" 450

157. East Side of Plaza— Santa Fe 452

158. At the Baile 456

159. Pueblo at Prayer 468

160. A Mexican Dray 474

161. "Caramba! Va Maladitto." 476

162. Southwest from Santa Fe 481

163. Pueblo Cacique 483

164. " My Relations, Sir." 485

165. Algodonas 487

166. Albuquerque Cathedral 489

167. " About so High." 492

168. Mexican Farm House 497

169. Pueblo Maiden 501

170. Agua Azul and Red Butte 509

171. Officer's Quarters— Fort Wingate 512

172. Distant View of Zuni 514

173. Upper Story of Zuni page 516

174. Navajo Loom 518

175. Navajo Boy 525

176. Navajo Matron 531

177. Navajo "Gristmill." 533

178. Navajo Belle 534

179. Arizona Landscape 537

180. Through the Navajo Forest 548

181. Wind Carvings 550

182. Leaning Tower 551

183. "Ah-Yee! Melicano, Ettah Hoganday ! " 554

184. Entering the Desert 562

185. "Yah! Melicano, Malo, Malo ! " 564

186. " The Shadow of a Great Rock in a Weary Land." 567

187. Sheep-Pens at Moqui 569

188. Entering Moqui — " Jokow, Jokow, Melicano, Jokow!" 572

189. Northwest Front of Moqui 575

190. Distant Yiew of Oraybe 577

191. Group of Moquis 580

192. Street in the " Dead Town." 583

193. Tuba and Telashnimki 584

194. One of Six Bronze Plates dug up near Kinderhook, 111., in 1843 598

195. " Break in the Formation." 604

196. A Friendly Apache 607

197. Skull of Mangus Colorado, or " Ked Sleeve." — a "Good Indian." 608

198. Formation on the Streams 610

199. Scene on the Colorado 612

200. Peak of Conglomerate 616

201. Espanol 621

202. "Todos Muertos, Pero mas Apaches." 631

203. Getting Down to the Colorado 632

204. Mountain Meadow Massacre — 132 Emigrant's killed by Mormons, etc.. 647

205. At Jacob's Pool 655

206. " Happy Family "— Utes 657

207. Kanarra — Southern Utah.... 660

208. Salt Lake Theatre 668

209. Lower Falls of the Yellowstone, Wyoming, (350 Feet in Hight.) 670

210. On Guard 673

211. Tower Fall?— -Wyoming 676

212. Bird's-Eye Yiew of the Geyser Basin 679

213. Upper Falls of the Yellowstone 680

214. Yellowstone Lake 681

215. The Giantess— Yellowstone 688

216. The Old Way Across the Plains 692

217. Monument Rock — Echo Canon 693

218. Mormon Temple at Nauvoo, Illinois 696

219. Nauvoo Militia and " General" Joseph Smith page 697

220. Trappers in Northern Dakota 699

221. People of Pembina, and their Ox-Carts 700

222. Old Fort Benton— Montana 702

223. The Author, being in Feeble Health, Goes to Minnesota 707

224. The Author, being Feeble in Pocket, Keturns from Minnesota 708

225. Scene on a Minnesota Lake 712

227. Falls of St. Anthony 717

228. Missionary among the Minnesota Indians 723

229. N. P. E. R. Bridge over Mississippi, near Brainerd, Minn 728

230. Dalles of the St. Louis 733

232. In the Tunnel— Sierra Nevada 742

233. Donner Lake — Sierra Nevada 743

234. Snow Sheds on the Central Pacific 744

235. Acorn Caches of the California Indians 748

236. "Venus and Adonis" — Digger Indians 752

237. Rough on the Old Man 755

238. Falls of the Willamette 760

239. Portland— Oregon— From East Side of Willamette 764

240. Street in Olympia — Washington Territory 766

241. Puget Sound and Mt. Rainier 768

242. "A Little Qualmish." 774

243. Point Arena Lighthouse — Coast of California 776

244. Bancroft's great Publishing House — San Francisco 777

Chapter I. I Mare A Start

Why I went West — Poor health — " Infallible cures " — Impecuniosity — Try the newsjiapers — Doubtful prospects — Leave Evansville — Stop in Wisconsin — The Mound Region — Boscobel — Into Iowa — Swedes and Norwegians — Westward afoot — A model farmer — Wire-fence — Planting timber — Resources of Iowa — Iowa Falls — " Wall-Lake " — Fanciful theories — Scientific fact — Fort Dodge — Grasshoppers — A pleasant excursion — " Purgatory " and " Hell " Sloughs — " Bad for women and oxen " — Twin Lakes — Ida City — Over the " Divide "— Denison — Down the C. & N. W. R. R.^Council Bluffs and Omaha — On the border at last 33

Chapter II. A Common Mistake

Our land of promise — Pleasing errors — Painful but wholesome truths — " The Great American Desert " not & myth— Causes of sterility — Drought — Elevation and cold — Alkali — Minerals — Bitter Creek — "Journey of Death" — Travel on the Deserts^Bunch grass — Grand divisions of the West — View of the Plains — Routes across the Continent — Fi'eighting under difficulties — Railroad and emigration circulars — Caveat emptor: "Let the buyer look out" 50

Chapter III. Five Weeks In Nebraska

Omaha — Glorious anticipitations — Prosaic facts — A bit of history — Florence — An invasion of place hunters — Disappointment — On the road to Fontanelle — Elkhorn Valley — Lost on the prairie — "Any port in a storm" — Down to the Platte— Fremont— Down Platte Valley— Intense heat— Want of domestic economy — Romantic hash — Victuals and poetry — Bovine apotheosis — Farming in Nebraska — Room for three hundred thousand farmers — Climate — Society — " Professional starvation " — Through Sarpy County — Youthful connubiality— Artificial groves — Increase of rain-fall — Omaha politics — " Bilks " — " Hunting for work, — hoping to not find it "... 63

Chapter IV. Ox The Union Pacific

Up the Platte Valley — Bcautj^ by moonlight ; barrenness by day — Getting on to the desert — North Platte — "The gentle gazelle" — "Dog-town" — Not dogs, but rodents — " Indians ahead " — The dangerous district — Crossing the Plains in 1866 — " The noble Red Man " — Cheyenne— Vigorous reduction of the population — Black Hill — Sherman — Down to Laramie — The Alkali Desert — Benton — A beautiful summer resort ! — Manners and morals (?) — Bravery of the impecunious — Murder and mob — Vigilantes — Murderer rescued by the military and escapes — Amusements — " Big Tent " — " Now, then, gentlemen, tlie ace is your winning card" — "Cappers" and Victims — No fairness in gambling 79

Chapter V. On A Mule

A new profession — Off for Salt Lake City — A Mormon outfit — Nature of the overland freight — Its extent — Great expenses and enormous profits — Luxury of miners and mountaineers — Changed to the railroad — " Kiting towns" — Jonah's gourd — Benton a year afterwards — Platte City — Our company — Mulewhacker's Theologj' — Pleasant gossip on polygamy — Journal of the route — Horrors of Bitter Creek — Heat, cold, thirst, dust, fatigue— Green River— Bridger Plains — Echo Canon — Weber Canon — Parley's Park — Down Parley's Caiion — Salt Lake Valley and City 96

Chapter VI. A Year In Utah

Discharging freight — " Beautiful Zion " — First impressions—" Our Bishop " — Arguments (?) for polygamy — Rough on Rome — Mormon Worthies — Jews, Gentiles, and Apostates — Queer condition of American citizens — " Millennial Star" and " Book of ^lormon" — The original carpet-baggers — " Jaredites " — Mormon sermons — Into the country — A polemic race — Mormon conference — " No trade with Gentiles " — A hard winter — I become a Gentile editor — Founding of Corinne — Glowing anticipations — " The Chicago of the Rocky Mountains " — Ups and downs of real estate — The Author comes to grief. 108

Chapter VII. The Union Pacific Completed

The last rail arid spike — A visit home — An unofficial tour — Whitney, Benton, Burton, Fremont, Stansbury, Saxton, and Gunnison — Difficulties of constructure — Where is the real starting point ? — Missouri River Bridge — Out the Platte — Fremont — Columbus — On the plains again — Julesburg — Smoothness of the route — Delightful traveling — Cheyenne — A Western JetTreys! — Laramie again — A tragedy — A miracle, perhaps! — " Big Ed's" guardian angel — Pyramid rocks — Beauties of Laramie Plains — Desert west of them — Wasatch — Echo and Weber — Promontory — Moral gamblers — Reflections 126

Chapter VIII. The Great Basin

Hunting new fields — Gentile needs — Mines or nothing — Southward — Sevier Mines — Gilmer and Saulsbury — Rockwell's Ranche— The Utah Basin — Will it be sacred ground?— A family ticket — Social robbery — Chicken Creek — " Them mules is in the sagebrush ; you go hunt 'em ! " — Gunnison — Sevier Valley — Abandoned towns — Marysvale — Up the Gulch — Drawbacks to the district — Mr. Jacob Hess^My later experience — The habitable lands of Utah and Nevada — Productions— Fruits — True policy with the State and Territory — " Mormon enterprise " — A silver State — Sunken deserts — Death Valley — Mournful reminiscence 142

Chapter IX. Through Nevada

Out of a place — A wanderer again — Tired of Utah — Westward — Promontory — Salty district — Queer calculations — Down the Humboldt — Elko — White Pine — "John Chinamen" — Humboldt Canon — Desert — Reese River — " Sinks " — Morning at Truckee — Beauty of the Sierras — Eureka !— Donner and Bigler Lakes — Western Slope — " Forty miles of snow sheds " — Mining towns-^Cape Horn — Sublime scenery — Scientific engineering — Swiftly downward— Scenery of the Pacific slojie — Out upon the jilain — The California autumn — Suburbs of Sacramento 153

Chapter X. Afoot In California

New Spain — Poetry and fact — Saxon and Spaniard — Cavalier and Pioneer — Our Heroic Age — The American Iliad — Sacramento — Yolo county — " Tales " — Chinese — California Central R. R. — Ague — Hijj;h and Low

Water-marks — Chinese and Chinese labor — Acclimating sickness — Davisville — Sericulture — Warner's Vineyartl — The land of grapes — Pears, ajiples, and figs — Up Putah Creek — Drouth and dust— The rainy season at hand — Fruit farms near the coast range — Baiw/ies only, not homes — Popular reasons therefor — Agricultural items — Shall we settle in rural California — Chinese " Devil-drive " — Mongolian Theology — " Josh " — Blowing up the Devil — Ah Ching's ojiinion — " China like Melica man ! " —Off for " Frisco " 1G7

Chapter XI. Utah Again

Elected defendant— Utah law — Polygamous judges— Trial at Brigham City — Assault on the author — Skilful surgery — Rapid recovery — " Write a history of the Mormons ! " — Visit the East — Return to Utah — Political — Bear River canal scheme — Author goes to AVashington — Miseries of a lobbyist — Election of 1870— Gen. Geo. R. Maxw-ell — Debate on polygamy — C'lci bono? — Mormon morals and Gentile associations 183

Chapter XII. I Start Again

Another misfortune and change of scene — Kansas City — Lawrence — Early tragedies — Later horrors — Last great success— Southward — Ottawa — " Don't mention it, Deacon " — Franklin County — Anderson — Ozark Ridge — Allen County — lola — Western enterprise — Montgomery County — Beautiful Mounds — Cherry vale — Northward — A modern Methuselah — Troy — Ready to report 197

Chapter XIII. Statistical Kansas

Emigrants, attention ! — Topography of Kansas — Climate — Three divisions — Amount of good land — Productiveness — Figures — Fruit — Beautiful Homes — Southern border— Snakes — Local flavoring — Bad case of Trichina— The Kansas farmer 216

Chapter XIV. A Flying Trip

Down to St. .Joseph — Up the Missouri Valley — Omaha again — Dull times on the Missouri — Reasons given — Off for Sioux City— Up-country people —Yankton— Caught in a storm— Dakota— Black Hills— Gold ! perhaps— Sioux— Iape Oahye — Called westward — Union Pacific — Mormondom again — Over to " Frisco" 235

Chapter XV. Wonders Of The Sierras

Off for Calaveras— The route — Copperopolis — Up the Sierras— First view of tlie Grove — Particular trees — Emotions excited — Route thence to Yosemite — Table Mountain — Bret Harte — Terrible descent — Into the Valley — A ■world of wonders — Fatigue and reflection — Descrijjtion imijossible 251

Chapter XVI. Sketches In San Francisco

Return from Yosemite — Summary of trip— Does it pay? — Climate of San Francisco — Of the State — ^^^ariety in " Frisco " — The Barbary Coast — Chinese Theatre — The Cliff House and Seal Rocks— Literature of the Pacific— Joaquin Miller — Frances Rose Mackinley — Morals and manners — Excitement and wearing out — An inventive Race — The Chinese again... 290

Chapter XVII. " John."

Popular nonsense about the Chinese — The bugbear Chinaman — The romantic Chinaman — The real article — His history, art, music and drama — Objections to them considered — Do they cheapen labor ? — Will they overrun the country ? — Do they degrade labor ? — Their condition — Missionary work — Sacramento system — Rev. O. Gibson — Better siiecimens— Yellow Chinese — Mrs. Laisun and daughters — Chinese students — Hope for the race 313

Chapter XVIII. Mines And Mining

A prospect — Outline of mining region — The Cottonwoods — How I came there — Mormon anti-mining sermons — The dry summer — Unhealthfulness of Salt Lake Citj^ — I goto the mountains — "Prospectors" — We hunt a mine — Mode of silver mining — Different in gold mining — One chance in twenty-five thousand for an " Emma " or " Comstock " — " Struck a horse " — Over to Big Cottonwood — Fire in the mountains — Promise of war in Utah— False alarm— Off for Bingham— Chicago fire— Thence to East Carion — I invest — And come out minus 326

Chapter XIX. A Change Of Base

A hard winter — The last rain — Eastward — A merry party — The great Blockade — On the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad — Southwestern Missouri — Among the Cherokees — Spring roads — Up into Kansas — Meet C. G. Du Bruler, Esq., and return — Down to Muscogee 3.48

Chapter XX. Muscokee

Desperadoes — Laxity of Government — Out to the Agency — Stirring up a rattler — "A free nigger settlement " — Creek History — Tallahassee ilission • — Delightful exiieriences — Creek education — System of government — Back to Muscogee — Eeckless shooting — State of the region 369

Chapter XXI. Oklahoma

Railroads — The Thirty-fifth parallel route — Down to the Canadian — In the Choctaw Nation — Tandy Walker, Esq. — Secretary Delano visits the Territory — Tramp to Fort Gibson — " White Cherokees " again — An Indian feud — At Widow Skrimshee's — " Pikes," on the animal migration — Tahlequah — Cherokee documents — Curious records — History of the Nation — Summary of the Indian Territory 396

Chapter XXII. Around And About To Santa Fe

No thoroughfare from Indian Territory — Northward through Kansas — On the Plains at Last — The Ride over the Kansas Pacific — Ellsworth, and its Former Felicities — In the Buifalo Countiy — The " Big Pasture" of America — Arrival at Denver — "Them's my Sentiments" — The Country from Denver to Santa Fe — A case of Delirium Tremens 431

Chapter XXIII. Santa Fe De San Francisco

First impressions — Location of the city — U. S. oflScials — Learning Spanish — The Baile — Valse da Spachio — Mexican Law— Religion — Children—

■park vs. -white races — Mexican transportation — Historical — Remarkable journey of De Vaca and his companions — Expedition of Coronado — " The seven cities of Cibola!" — "The American occupation" — Query 451

Chapter XXIV. " Greaserdom."

Off from Santa Fe— La Bajada— Rio Grande Valley— The Pueblo de San Domingo — Mexican farms — Albuquerque — Crossing the Rio Grande— On the Desert — Rio Puerco — El Rito — "Town of the Lake" — Cubero — McCarty's Ranche — Murder by the Navajoes — Agua Azul — The extinct volcano — Summit of the Sierra Madre — At Wingate — My soldier comes to grief. ' 479

Chapter XXV. Among The Navajoes

At Fort Wingate — Natural beauty — Wealth of nature — A region of curiosities — The Zunis — Their wonderful civilization — Caiion de Chaco — San Juan ruins — On to Defiance — Navajo history — Their semi-civilization — Their wars with the Spaniards — American relations — Major Brooks' negro — Navajo War — Subjugation and decline — Their return and progress — End of stay at Defiance — Sounds of wrath from Santa Fe — Apology — An original "pome" 511

Chapter XXVI. A Ride Through Wonderland

Diamonds! perhaps— Curious stones in the Navajo country — Ready — Kindness of Agent Keams — Navajo Forest— Entering De Chelley— Tlie " CliiF Cities" — An evening of beauty — Out upon the Desert — Water! Water! — Sickness and exhaustion — Navajo doctoring — Climbing for water — Down again, and night-ride— Camp at last— " Hah-koh Melicano ! "—Reach Moqui — Curious people— Chino and ilisiamtenah — " Moquis steal nothing" 541

Chapter XXVII. The Last Of The Aztecs

Theory and fact — What I know about the Moquis— Location— Numbers —Dwellings— Dress— A dinner of State— Dog-meat and a Catholic Ktomach— Strange dialogue on religion — Tuba and Telashnimki — Oravbe

Radicals — Further enquiries — Division of the subjects — Mounds in Ohio — In Mississippi Valley — Mexico — Central America — Peru — Theories — Jews, Chinese, Malays, Phoenicians, Romans, or Atlanteans — Modest conclusion 574

CHAPTER XXVIll.

ARIZONA.

A big country — A strange parallelogram— A region of mountain, canon and plateau — Antiquities — Wild Indians — MaricojDas and other village Indians — We leave Jloqui — Nature of the country — Camp of the " Outlaw Navajoes " — Romantic narrations— Navajo beauty — Their theology — Fish, turkeys, and human beings— AVho are they ?— Their treatment of women 603

Chapter XXIX. Down To The Colorado

Diversion from intended route — Summary of the Thirty-fifth parallel route — Leave the outlaw Navajoes — Addition to our party — Our interpreter — Lost on the desert — An aboriginal joke — A wonderful grazing ground — Battle-field of Apaches and Navajoes — Comparison of skulls — Reach the Colorado Caiion — Sublime sight — A fearful descent — Nine hours going down hill — No passage — Find one of Major Powell's boats — Dexterity of the Indians — I risk the passage — "Major Doyle" — Indian romance — Castilian and Navajo tongues — Good-bye to my dark friends — Safely over at last G24

Chapter XXX. Five Hundred Miles Of Mormons

An astonishing revelation—" Major Doyle" becomes John D. Lee, of Mountain Meadow notoriety — He relates his version of that affair — Comments — Why verdict " Guilty " — Off for the .settlements— Jacob's Pool — Long, dry ride— The Pi-Utes— Into Kanab— Jacob Hamlin -Major Powell's party— Pipe Springs— Gould's Ranche— Virgen City— Toquerville— Kanawa — Into the Greai Basin — Beaver — The "Jerky"— An old comrade — Fillmore — " Cutting off" — Staging — An unconscious joke — Arrival at Salt Lake City — Surprise of my friends 645

Chapter XXXI. My Summer Vacation

Diamonds by the bushel ! — My conclusion — The sad fact — Off for Soda Springs — Cache Valley — Gen. Connor and the Battle of Bear River —

Soda Mounds— Health-restoring waters— "Anti-polygamy " Spring- Wonders of the Yellowstone— Report of Hon. U. P. Langford— Return to Salt Like City— Politics and Religion— Popular absurdities about Utah— A blast at Brigham and his allies 669

Chapter XXXII. Short Notes On A Long Excursion

Another ride on the Union Pacific — Down to St. Louis — Up to Nauvoo — Historic interest — A strange old place — German vintners — Beauty of the site — Through Iowa— Southern Dakota— Yankton politicians— Territorial Oflacials— " The Government cannot afford good men "—Down the Missouri — An uncertain channel— On the Sioux City and St. Paul Road 691

Chapter XXXIII. Minnesota

My stepmother— An impecunious youth— Trials of poverty — I drive for excursion parties — Not a .success— My Canadian friends — Return home — Mankato — Crystal Lake — Garden City— The cabin of my friends — My old employer — Down to St. Paul — Tlie State Fair— Northwar.d by rail —Lumbermen — Big Lake — St. Cloud — Sauk Rapids — Great water-power — Northward stage — The Lady Superior — Belle Prairie— Converting Indians — We reach Brainerd 706

Chapter XXXIV. On The Northern Pacific

Brainerd— The Pine forests of Minnesota— Sioux and Chippewas— Pahya Goonsey— Detroit Lakes— Down to Red River— iloorehead— Out to Jimtown— Red River Valley— " The equinoctial storm"— Eastward again —Russian Quakers— Scandinavian settlers— Scenery on the St. Louis — Duluth— Emigration Comiianies— " Post Off"— Humbug of land circulars—Climate on the Northern Pacific— "Be not deceived "—The testimony experience of A. Toponce, Esq. — Comments 724

Chapter XXXV. The Way To Oregon

Westward again— Iowa— Union Pacific— Utah— Central Pacific— Sacramento— California and Oregon Railroad— Chico— General Bidwell's

Handle— Semi-Tropical Fruits and Flowers— Reading— Shasta— Joaquin Miller— Shasta Indians—" Venus and Adonis " — Staging on the Sierras — Mount Shasta— Yreka— Frontier justice— Immense I'orests— Oregon- Rogue River — Umpqua — Willamette — Portland 74j

Chapter XXXVI. In Conclusion

Season too late — Washington Territory — " Good-bye, Jonah " — Down the Willamette — In the Columbia — A fog — Salmon fisheries — Strange instincts of the salmon — On the heaving ocean — " The first to fall " — Down below — " Just a little qualmish " — Philosophy on the subject — Smoother water — " On an even keel " — Arrival at Frisco — Bancroft & Co. — Homeward bound rG7