Scenes in the Rocky mountains, and in Oregon, California, New Mexico, Texas, and the grand prairies

Front matter

SCENES

ROCKY MOUNTAINS,

OKEGON, CALIFORNIA, NEW MEXICO, TEXAS, AND THE GEAND PRAIRIES;

Chapter I

Objects of a proposed excursion. Primary plans and movements. A Digression, Rendezvous for Oregon emigrants and Santa Fe traders. Sensations on a first visit to the border Prairies. Frontier Indians. 13

Chapter II

Preparations for leaving. Scenes at Camp. Things as they appeared. Simplicity of mountaineers. Sleep in the open air. Character, habits, and costume of mountaineers. Heterogeneous ingredients of Company. The commandant. En route. Comical exhibition and adventure with a Spanish company. Grouse. Elm Grove. A storm. Santa Fe traders. Indian battle. 16

Chapter III

The Pottowatomies. Crossing the Wakarousha. Adventure at the Springs. The Caw chief. Kansas river and Indians. Pleading for wliiskey. Hickory timber. Prairie tea. Scenes at the N. Fork of Blue. Wild honey. Return party. Mountaineers in California. Ad ventiure with a buffalo. Indian atrocities. Liquor and the Fur Trade. Strict guard. High prices. 23

Chapter IV

Country from the frontiers to Big Blue ; its geological character, &c. Novel cure for fever and ague. Indian trails. Game. Large rabbits. Antelope, and their peculiarities. Beaver cuttings. Big Blue and its vicirdty. Dangerous country. Pawnee bravery. Night-alarm, (Prairies on fire.) Platte river. Predominant characteristics of the Grand Prairies, and theory explanative of of their phenomenon. Something to laugh at. " Big Jim " and the antelope. 30

Chapter V

Deserted camp. Big Jim's third attempt as a hunter. Buffalo and other particulars. Big Jim lying guard. Butchering. Strange selections. Extraordinary eating, and excellence cf buffalo meat. Brady's Island. The murderer's fate. Substitute for wood. A storm. Game in camp. Strange infatuation. Tenacity of buffalo to life, and how to hunt them. Cross S. Fork of Platte. Big Jim's fourth adventure. 39

IV. CONTENTS.

Chapter VI

Ash creek. Pawnnee and Sioux battle-ground. Bread-root. The Eagle's Nest. Mad wolf. Number and variety of prairie wolves, — their sagacity. Mad bull. Making and curing meat. Big Jim stUl unfortunate. Johnson's creek. McFarlan's Castle. Deceptiveness of distances. Express from the Fort. Brave Bear. Bull Tail. Talk with the Indians. Speech of Marto-cogershne. Reply. Tahtungah-sana's address. 49

Chapter VII

The Chimney. A bet. Spur of the Rocky Mountains. Scott's Bluff Romantic scenery. Mimic city. A pyramid. A monument. An elevated garden. Moxintain sheep. An Eden. Death in camp. The wanderer's grave. Horse creek and gold. Goche's hole. Arrival at Fort Platte. Remarks by the way. Prairie travel. liOcality and description of the Fort. Indian lodges. Migratory habits of mountain and prairie tribes. Scenes at Fort. Drunken Indians. Tragical event. Indian funeral. Speech of Etespa-huska on the death of his father. 60

CHAPTER Vni.

Coast clear, and Trade opened. More visitors. Smoking out the natives. Incident illustrative of Indian character. Expeditions for trade. Black Hills. Rawhide. An Indian and a buffalo chase. Deep snow, extreme cold, and painful journey. L'eau-qui-court. Remarks. Lost. White river ; its valley, fruits, and game. Building site. The Devil's Tea-pot. Troubles with Indians. Theft and its punishment. Indian soldiers. Christmas extras. Outrageous conduct. Rascality of traders. " That Old Serpent." Indian superstition, religious tenets and practices. Notions upon general morality. 71

Chapter IX

Dangers cormected with the liquor trade. Difficulty with Bull Eagle. Scenes of bloodshed and horror. Cheating in the fur trade. How the red man becomes tutored in vice. A cliief 's daughter offered in exchange for liquor. Indian mode of courtship and marriage. Squaws an article of traffic. Divorce. PluraUty of wives. 82

Chapter X

Tahtunga-egoniska. High gaming. Weur-sena WarkpoUo, a strange story. The Death Song, a tale of love. Medicine-men. Extraordinary performance of Tahtunga-mobeUu. Wonderful feats of jugglery. 89

CHAPTER XL

Food for horses. Squaws and their performances. Dogs and dog-meat. Return to Fort. Starvation. Travel by guess. Death from drinking. Medicine-making. A Burial. Little Lodge and the French trader. A speech

Contents

in council. Journey to White river. ITigh winds and snow. Intense sufferings and painful results. 97

Chapter XII

Another drunken spree. Horses devoured by wolves. An upset. A blowing up. Daring feat of wolves. A girl offered for liquor. Winter on the Platte. Boat building. Hunting expedition. Journey up the Platte. Island camp. Narrow escape. Snow storm. Warm Spring. Pass of the Platte into the prairies. A valley. Bitter Cottonwood. Indian forts. Wild fruit. Root-digging. Cherry tea and its uses. Geology of the country. Soils, grasses, herbs, plants, and purity of atmosphere. Horse-shoe creek. A panther. Prairie dogs and their peculiarities. 103

Chapter XIII

"le Creek valley. The Platte as a mountain stream. Canon, Romantic pros* pect. Comical bear story. Perilous encounter with a wounded bull. Geological remarks. Division of party. Safety of spring travel. La Route's creek. Remarks by the way. Service-berry. Deer Creek. General observations. Moccasin making. Box-elder. Bear killed. Excellence of its flesh. Different kinds of bears in Oregon and the mountains. The grizzly bear, his nature and habits. 110

Chapter XIV

ate encounter with a grizzly bear, and extraordinary instance of suffering. )se contest. A comical incident. Cross Platte. Canon camp. Sage es. Mountain sheep, and all about them. Independence Rock ; why so Jed, and description of it. DeviPs Gate. Landscape scenery. 117

Chapter XV

Return route. Oregon trail from Independence Rock through the South Pass. Cross the Sweet Water and Platte. Mountain Fowl. Journey up Medichie Bow. Dangerous country. A light with the Sioux. The " Carcague." A surprise. Visit to the Crow village. Number and character of the Crow nation. Sellmg a prisoner for tobacco. Description of Laramie Plains. 123

Chapter XVI

Sibille's-hole. Novel bitters. Chugwater. Gold. Curiosity. Affairs at the Fort. Amusements. Gambling among squaws, and games played. Squaw dresses, and riding fashion. Items of interest to the curious, proving the intercourse of the ancient Romans with the people of this continent. 132

Chapter XVII

Singular exhibition of natural affection. Embark for the States. Scarcity of provisions and consequent hardship and suffering. Extraordinary daring of vi. CONTENTS.

wolves. Difficulties of navigation. Novel diet. Fishing. A fish story, and another to match it. A bull story. Hard aground and dismal situation. Extreme exposure. Cold, hungry, and wet. Again afloat. Re-supply of provisions. Camp on fire. A picture of Platte navigation. Country north of river. Adventure with a bull. Indian benevolence. Summary of hardships and deprivations. Abandon voyage. 139

Chapter XVIII

Hunting excursion. Thirst more painful than hunger. Geological observations. Mournful casualty. Sad scene of sepulture. Melancholy night. Voyage in an empty boat. Ruins of a Pawnee village at Cedar Bluff Plover creek. Cache Grove. Thousand Islands. Abandon boat. Exploring company. A horrible situation. Agony to torment. Pawnee village. Exemplary benevolence of an Indian chief. Miserable fourth of July. Four days' starvation. Arrival at Council Bluff Proceed to Independence. 147

Chapter XIX

The country Detw^een the Pawnee village and Bellevieu, and from that to Fort Leavenworth. Leave Independence for the Mountains. Meet Pawnees. Indian hospitality. Journey up the South Fork Platte. Fort Grove. Beaver creek. Bijou. Chabonard's camp. Country described. Medicine Lodge. The Chyennes ; their character and history. Arrive at Fort Lancaster. Different localities in its neighborhood. Fatal Duel. Ruins. 154

Chapter XX

Old acquaintances. Indian murders. Mode of travelling in a dangerous country Mexican traders. Summary way of teacliing manners. Fort Lancaster and surrounding country. Resume journey. Cherry creek and connecting observations. Sketch of the Arapahos, their country, character, &c. Camp of free traders. Blackfoot camp. Daugherty's creek. Observations relative to the Divide. Mexican cupidity. Strange visitors. The lone travellers. Arrive at the Arkansas. General remarks. Curious specimens of cacti. Fontaine qui Bouit, or Natural Soda fountain. Indian superstition. Enchanting scency. Extraordinary wall of sandstone. 162

CHAPTER XXL

Vicinity of the Arkansas. Settlement. The Pueblo. Rio San Carlos, its valleys and scenery. Shooting by moonlight. Taos. Review of the country travelled over. Taos ; its vicinity, scenery, and mines. Ranches and Rancheros. Mexican houses ; their domestic economy, and filth. Abject poverty and deplorable condition of the lower classes of IMexicans, with a general review of their character, and some of the causes contributing to their present degradation. The Pueblo Indians and their strange notions. Ancient temple. Character of the Pueblos. Journey to the Umtah river, and observations by the way. Taos Utahs, Pa-utahs, Uintah and Lake Utahs. Tlie

CONTENTS. VU.

Diggers ; misery of their situation, strange mode of lying, with a sketch of their character. The Navijos; their civilization, hostility to Spaniards, ludicrous barbarity, bravery, &c., with a sketch of their country', and why they are less favorable to the whites than formerly. 171

Chapter XXII

Uintah trade. Snake Indians; their country and character. Description of Upper California. The Eastern Section. Great Salt Lake and circumjacent country. Desert. Digger country, and regions south. Ferlility of soil. Prevailing rock and minerals. Abundance of wild fruit, grain, and game. Valley of the Colorado. Magnificent scenery. Valleys of the Uintah and other rivers. Vicinity of the Gila. Face of the country, soil &c. Sweet spots. Mildness of climate, and its healtliiness. The natives. Sparsity of inhabitants. No government. All about the Colorado and Gila rivers. Abundance of fish. Trade in pearl oyster-shells. Practicable routes from the United States. 182

Chapter XXIII

Jlinerals. Western California. The Sacramento and contiguous regions. Principal rivers. Fish. Commercial advantages. Bay of San Francisco. Other Bays and Harbors. Description of the country ; territory northwest of the Sacramento ; Tlamath Mountains ; California range and its vicinity ; southern parts ; timber, river-bottoms ; Valleys of Sacramento, del Plumas, and Tulare ; their extent, fertility, timber, and fruit ; wild grain and clover, spontaneous; wonderful fecundity of soil, and its products ; the productions, climate, rains, and dews ; geological and mineralogical character ; face of the country ; its water ; its healtliiness ; game ; superabundance of cattle, horses, and sheep, their prices, &c. ; beasts of prey ; the inhabitants, who ; Indians, their character and condition ; Capital of the Province, with other towns ; advantages of San Francisco ; inland settlements ; foreigners and Mexicans ; Government ; its full military strength. Remarks. 189

Chapter XXIV

Visitors at Uintah. Adventures of a trappmg party. The Munchies, or white Indians ; some account of them. Amusements at rendezvous. Mysterious city, and attempts at its exploration,— speculation relative to its inhabitants. Leave for Fort Hall. Camp at Bear river. Boundary between the U. States and Mexico. Green valleys, &c. Country en route. Brown's-hole. Geological observations. Soda, Beer, and Steamboat springs ; their peculiarities. Minerals. Valley of Bear river ; its fertility, timber, and abundance of wild fruit. Buffalo berries. Superior advantages of this section. Mineral tar. jgg

Chapter XXV

Fort Hall ; its history, and iocaUty. Information relative to Oregon. Bound-

CONTENTS.

aries and extent of the territory. Its rivers and lakes, with a concise description of them severally. Abundance and variety of fish and water-fowl. Harbors and islands. Oregon as a whole ; its mountains and geographical divisions. Eastern Divison ; its wild scenery; valleys, soil, and timber ; volcanic ravages ; country between Clarke's river and the Columbia. North of the Columbia ; its general character. Middle Division ; its valleys, prairies, highlands, and forests. Western Division ; a beautiful country ; extensive valleys of extraordinary fertility ; productive plains ; abundance of timber, its astonishing size and variety. A brief summary of facts. 206

Chapter XXVI

Climate of Oregon ; its variableness ; its rains ; a southern climate in a northern latitude. Productiveness ; grain, fruits, and flowers, wild and cultivated. Geological characteristics. Soils and prevaiUng rock. Minerals, &c. Variety of game. Wolves. Horses, and other domestic animals. Population, white and native ; Indian tribes, their character and condition. Missionary stations, and their improvements. Present trade of Oregon. Posts of the Hudson Bay Company. Settlements. Oregon City, its situation and advantages ; about Linnton ; about Wallammette valley, Fualitine plains and Umpqua river ; Vancouvre, and its superior advantages. Kindness of Hudson Bay Company to settlers. 217

CHAPTER XVII.

The manufacturing facilities of Oregon. Commercial and agricultural advantages reviewed. Rail Road to the Pacific. Route, mode of travelling, and requisite equipment for emigrants. Importance of Oregon to the United States. Incident in the early history of Fort Hall. Why the Blackfeet are hostile, and bright spots in their character. Mild weather. Leave for the Platte. Journey to the Yampah, and sketch of the intermediate country. New Park. Head of Grand river. The landscape. Different routes to Fort Lancaster. Old Park. 225

Chapter XXVIII

From Grand river to Bayou Salade. Observations by the way. Description of the Bayou. Voracity of magpies. Journey to Cherry creek. Country en route. Crystal creek. Abundance of game. Antelope hunting. Remarkable sagacity of wolves. Snow storms and amusement. Ravenn. Move camp. Comfortable winter quarters. Animal food conducive to general health and longevity. A laughable instance of sound sleeping. Astonishing wolfine rapacity. Beaver lodges and all about beaver. Hunting excursion. Vasques' creek, its valleys, table lands, mountains, and prairies. Camp. Left alone. Sensations, and care to avoid danger. A nocturnal visitor. Thrilling adventure and narrow escape. A lofty specimen of "gettin down stairs." Geological statistics. 233

CONTENTS.

Chapter XXIX

Return to the Fort. Texan recruiting officer. New plans. Volunteer. The Chance Shot, or Special Providence. Texan camp. Country contiguous to the Arkansas, from Fontaine qui Bouit to the Rio de las Animas. Things at rendezvous. A glance at the company. Disposal of force. March up the de las Animas. The country ; Timpa valley, and its adjoining hills, to the de las Animas. The latter stream ; its canon, valley and enchanting scenery. Tedious egress. Unparalleled suffering from hunger, toil, and cold. Wolf flesh and buffalo hide. Painful consequences of eating cacti. A feast of mule meat after seven days' starvation. Camp at the Taos trail. The adjacent country. Strict guard. A chase. The meet reward for treason. 244

Chapter XXX

March down the Cimarone. Junction of the two divisions. Country between the de las Animas and the Cimarone. Perilous descent. Canon of the Cimarone. Soil and prevailing rock. A fort. Grandeur and sublimity of scenery. Beauty of rocks. Cimarone of the pain. Fruits and game. Wide-spread desolation. A dreary country. Summer on the Desert. Remarks. Encoimter with Indians. Nature's nobleman. Wild horses and different modes of catching them. Failure of expected reinforcements. March into the enemy's country. Ancient engravings upon a rock. Boy in the wolf's den. A man lost. Forced march. Torment of tliirst. Remarks. The lost found. Expulsion for cowardice, — its effect. 253

Chapter XXXI

Mexican camp. Pursuit. Advance upon Mora. Enemy discovered. Country between the Rio de las Animas and Mora ; its picturesque beauty. Admirable point of observation. Fortified position. Battle of the pass ; order of attack, passage of the river, storming the enemy's camp, and number of killed, wounded and prisoners. Council of war. Prisoners released. Message to Amijo. Return march. Mexican anny. Attacked, and results of action. Mexican bravery. Retreat. Cross the Table Mountain. New species of wild onions. March down the de las Animas. Discouragements accumulate. Disband. Sketch cf factions. Texan prisoners. Arrival of reinforcements. Battle of the Arroyo : killed, wounded, and prisoners. Retreat of Amijo. " Stampede." Frightful encounter with the Cumanches and Kuyawas. Discharge of troops. Affair with Capt. Cook. Surrender to U. S. Dragoons, and failure of expedition. Return to Texas. Journey to the Platte. Country between the Arkansas and Beaver creek. Feasting at camp. Crows' eggs. Lateness of season. Snow-storm in June. An Indian fort. Serio-comico adventure with a wolf. Lidians. Song of the night-bird. 262

CONTENTS.

Chapter XXXII

Lost. Night on the Prairie. Head of the Kansas river. Minerals. Country. Gold. Wonderful incident relative to a wounded bull. Indians. Join the A-rapahos. Moving village. Country between Beaver creek and the Platte. Canon. Reach Fort Lancaster. Fortune bettered. News from the States. Murder. Extraordinary instances of human tenacity to life. Arrival of Indians. Theft. Chyenne outrage. Return of Oregon emigrants. " Old Bob," and his adventures. A " Protracted Meeting," or Indian Medicine-making. Indian oath. Jaunt to the mountains. Mottntain scenery. Camp on Thompson's creek. Wild fruits. Concentration of valleys. Romantic view, A gem in the mountains. Grand river pass. Salt lakes. Astonishing scope of vision. Tlie black-tailed deer. Peculiarity in horses. Remarkable natural fortification. Return. Travelling by guess. 273

Chapter XXXIII

Newspapers. False reports. Singular grasses. Sale of skins at Fort Lancaster. An excursion. An incident. Camp. Huge horns. Leopard. Panther. Slaughter of eagles. Dressing skins. The hunter's camp. Vasques' creek. The weather. Return of comrades to Fort. Sweets of solitude. Exposure in a snow-storm. The canon of S. Fork Platte. A ridge. A valley. Beautiful locality. Choice site for a settlement. Flowers in February. A hunting incident. Fate of the premature flowers. Adventure with a sheep. Discovered by Indians. A pleasant meeting. Camp at Crystal creek. Thoughts of home. Resolve on going. Commence journey. The caravan. " Big Timber." Country to the " Crossing." Big Salt Bottom. Flowers. A stranger of other lands. Difficulty with Indians. " Friday." Tedious travelling. No timber. Detention. Country. Pawnee Fork. Mountain and Spanish companies. Spy Buck, the Shawnee war-chief. Pawnee Fork. — Cure for a rattlesnake's bite. Further detention. Sketch of adjacent country. Pawnee Rocks. En route with Friday. Mus-quetoes. Observations. Friday as a hunter. 287

Chapter XXXIV

Thfi Arapaho American, a sketch of real life. Tenets of the mountain Indians in reference to a future state of rewards and punishments. The " water bull." Country between Cow creek and Council Grove. Inviting locatity for settlement. Sudden rise of water. Separate routes. Dangerous travelling. Osage village. Osages, and all about tliem. Arrival at Van Buren, Arkansas. Concluding remarks. 297

Preface

The growing interest entertained by the American public in reference to the subjects mainly treated upon in the volume now before the reader, is deemed a sufficient apology for its appearance. The late act of our National Legislature in the annexation of Texas, bringing with it, as it does, a very considerable portion of the Province of Santa Fe, together with the existing hostilities between our own and the Republic of Mexico, preparing the way for a no distant acquisition of the Californias, not to mention the recent agitation of the American claim to the whole of Oregon, as yet scarcely subsided, has directed the attention of most minds more than usually towards the affairs and condition of the Great West — particularly that section of it contiguous to the Rocky Mountains. But, although our newspapers teem with professed descriptions of those countries embraced within its limits, and are redundant with animadversions upon their admitted importance — while the ambitious politician prates of them learnedly, and 'quotes by the day from fugitive paragraphs of doubful verity, gleaned here and there as chance may favor him — a palpable ignorance is evinced throughout in regard to a vast store of interesting particulars.

To fill up in some measure this wide vacuum of general information, is the author's object in his present undertaking. With this view he has endeavored to present a full and comprehensive picture of the real condition of regions so attractive as are the above, and in so doing he is conscious of having erred in no important particular. Whatever is affirmed, may be relied upon as matter of fact ; while details of a questionable nature may be inferred from the guarded language in which they are expressed. So far as his personal knowledge is concerned, he has spoken without reserve ; but information based upon second-hand authority, is given as such.

The catalogue of facts relative to the manner in which the fur trade is conducted, and the enormities chargeable upon the individuals engaged in it, may be objected to as unnecessarily minute ; but, regarded, as it should be, as one of the explanatory causes of Indian degradation, it will hardly fail to secure a ready acquiescence from the reader. Justice to the " red man " demands only a rehearsal of the simple truth, that condemnation may be awarded to the doubly guilty.

xii. PREFACE.

The narrative of the Texan expedition sent against New Mexico in the spring of 1843, with its mishaps, and conflicts with the Mexicans and Indians, added to a statement of its surrender to the U. S. Dragoons, and the causes which led to its final dispersion, will doubtless claim attention, as being the only account of it hitherto published.

In his notes of travel it has been the author's endeavor to avoid prolixity ; and, while his acting motto has been to say as much as possible in a few words, he has not withheld full descriptions of the various scenes and countries that met his view during his lengthy excursion. He is well aware that his style is partially deficient in the ease and gracefulness peculiar to some writers ; but here he would offer no apology — it is his own, and for it he neither asks the favor of critics nor expects their lenity.

Fully persuaded that a work of this kind will prove acceptable at the present time, the author would fain believe the public in general are more regardful of its intrinsic merits than of the garb in which it appears, and with these observations he is content to abide the result.

New-York, July, 1846.

SCENES

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC

Chapter I

Objects of a proposed excursion. — Primary plans and movements. — A digression.

Rendezvous for Oregon emigrants and Santa Fe traders. — Sensations on a first visit to tlie border Prairies. — Frontier Indians.

My purpose in visiting the Rocky Mountains, and countries adjacent, having hitherto proved a fruitful source of inquiry to the many persons I meet, when aware of my having devoted three years to travel in those remote regions, and I am so plied with almost numberless other questions, I know of no better way to dispose of them satisfactorily, than by doing what I had thought of at the outset, to wit : writing a book.

But, says one, more books have been already written upon subjects of a , kindred nature, than will ever find readers. True, indeed ; yet I must venture one more ; and this much I promise at the start: it shall be different, in most respects, from all that have preceded it ; and if I fail to produce an agreeable variety of adventures, interwoven with a large fund of valuable information, then I shall not have accomplished my purpose.

Yet, ' why did I go ? — what w^as my object ?' Let me explain : Dame Nature bestowed upon me lavishly that innate curiosity, and fondness for things strange and new, of which every one is more or less possessed. Phrenologists would declare my organ of Inquisitiveness to be largely developed ; and, certain it is, 1 have a great liking to tread upon unfrequented ground, and mingle among scenes at once novel and romantic. Love of adventure, then, was the great prompter, while an enfeebled state of health sensibly admonished me to seek in other parts that invigorating air and climate denied by the diseased atmosphere of a populous country! I also wished to acquaint myself with the geography of those comparatively unexplored regions,— their geological character, curiosities, resources, and natural advantages, together with their real condition, present inbabitants, inducements \g emigrants, and most favorable localities for settlements, to enable me to speak trom personal knowledge upon subjects so interesting to the public mind, at the present time, as are the above. Here, then, were

14 RENDEZVOUS OF OREGON EMIGRANTS.

objects every way worthy of attention, and vested with an importance that would render my excursion not a mere idle jaunt for the gratification of selfish curiosity. This much by way of prelude, — now to the task in hand.

While yet undecided as to the most advisable mode of prosecuting my intended enterprise, on learning that a party of adventurers were rendezvoused at Westport, Mo., preparatory to their long and arduous journey to the new-formed settlements of the Columbia river, I hastened to that place, where I arrived in the month of May, 1841, with the design of becoming one of their number. In this, however, I was doomed to disappointment by being too late. A few weeks subsequent marked the return of several fur companies, from their annual excursions to the Indian tribes inhabiting the regions adjacent to the head-waters of the Platte and Arkansas rivers, whose outward trips are performed in the fall months. Impatient at delay and despairing of a more eligible opportunity, for at least some time to come, I made prompt arrangements with one of them, to accompany it, en route, as far as the Rocky Mountains, intending to proceed thereafter as circumstances or inclination might suggest. This plan of travelling was adhered to, notwithstanding the detention of some three months, which retarded its prosecution.

I would here beg indulgence of the reader to a seeming digression. The pecuhar locality of the places to whose vicinity he is now introduced, owing to the deep interest cherished in the public mind relative to the Oregon country, will doubtless call for more than a mere passing notice : I allude to the towns of Independence and Westport. Situated as they are, at the utmost verge of civilization, and upon the direct route to Oregon and regions adjacent, they must retain and command, as the great starting points for emigrants and traders, that importance already assumed by general consent. Their facilities of access from all parts of the Union, both by land and water, are nowhere exceeded. The proud Missouri rolls its turbid waves within six miles of either place, opening the highway of steam communication, while numberless prime roads that converge from every direction, point to them as their common focus. Thus, the staid New Englander may exchange his native hills for the frontier prairies in the short interval of two weeks ; and in half that time the citizen of the sunny South may reach the appointed rendezvous ; and, nearer by, the hardy emigrant may commence his long over-land journey, from his own door, fully supplied with all the necessaries for its successful termination.

Independence is the seat of justice for Jackson county. Mo., about four hundred miles west by north of St. Louis, and contains a population of nearly two thousand. Westport is a small town in the same county, near the mouth of the Kansas river, — three miles from the Indian territory, and thirty below the U. S. Dragoon station at Fort Leavenworth. The regular routes to Santa Fe and Oregon date their commencement at these places. The country in this vicinity is beginning to be generally settled by thrifty farmers, from whom all the articles necessary for travellers and traders, may be procured upon reasonable terms.

Starting from either of the above points, a short ride bears the adventurer across the state line, and aflbrds him the opportunity of taking his initiatory lessons amid the realities of prairie life. Here, most of the trading and emigrant companies remain encamped for several weeks, to recruit

BORDER-PRAIRIES AND INDIANS. 15

their animals and complete the needful arrangements, prior to undertaking the toilsome and dangerous journey before them.

The scenery of this neighborhood is truly delightful. It seems indeed like one Nature's favored spots, where Flora presides in all her regal splendor, and with the fragrance of wild flowers, perfumes the breath of spring and lades the summer breeze with willing incense ; — now, sporting beside her fountains and revelling in her dales, — then, smihng from her hill-tops, or luxurating beneath her groves.

I shall never forget the pleasing sensations produced by my first visit to the border-prairies. It was in the month of June, soon after my arrival at Westport. The day was clear and beautiful. A gentle shower the preceding night had purified the atmosphere, and the laughing flowerets, newly invigorated from the nectarine draught, seemed to vie with each other in the exhalation of their sweetest odors. The blushing strawberry, scarce yet divested of its rich burden of fruit, kissed my every step. The buttercup, tulip, pink, violet, and daisy, with a variety of other beauties, unknown to the choicest collections of civilized life, on every side captivated the eye and delighted the fancy.

The ground was clothed with luxuriant herbage. The grass, where left uncropped by grazing herds of cattle and horses, had attained a surprising growth. The landscape brought within the scope of vision a most magnificent prospect. The groves, clad in their gayest ibliage and noddmg to the wind, ever and anon, crowned the gentle acclivities or reared their heads from the valleys, as if planted by the hand of art to point the wayfarer to Elysian retreats. The gushing fountains, softly breathing their untaught melody, before and on either hand, at short intervals, greeted the ear and tempted the taste. The lark, linnet, and martin, uniting with other feathered songsters, poured forth heir sweetest strains in one grand concert, and made the air vocal with their warblings ; and the brown-plumed grouse, witless of the approach of man, till dangerously near, would here and there emerge wellnigh from under foot, and whiz through the air with almost lightning speed, leaving me half frightened at her unlooked for presence and sudden exit. Hither and yon, truant bands of horses and cattle, from the less inviting pastures of the settlements, were seen in the distance, cropping the choice herbage before them, or gamboUing in all the pride of native freedom.

Amid such scenes I delight to w^ander, and often, at this late day, will my thoughts return, unbidden, to converse with them anew. There is a charm in the loneliness — an enchantment in the solitude — a witching variety in the sameness, that must ever impress the traveller, when, for the first time, he enters within the confines of the great western prairies.

One thing further and I will have done with this digression. Connected with the foregoing, it may not be deemed amiss to say something in relation to the Indian tribes inhabiting the territory adjacent to this common camping-place. The nearest native settlement is some twelve miles distant, and belongs to the Shawnees. This nation numbers in all fourteen or fifteen hundred men, women and children. Their immediate neighbors are the Delawares and Wyandotts, — the former claiming a population of eleven, hundred, and the latter, three or four hundred. Many connected with these tribes outstrip the nearer whites, in point of civilization and refine-