A new history of Texas

Front matter

iiiSiiliiiii^iSii

A NEW

FROM THE FIRST EUROPEAN SETTLEMENT

Preface

Thk great and increasing emigration to Texas, taken in connection with her present position, former histoiy and prospective career, were the primary causes which induced the author to compile a volume, entitled the Hntoru of Texas, yet, in doing so, he has embodied other and dissimilar information, as well as such as will safely conduct emigrants to favourable localities, and in a cheap way acquaint them with things necessary to be known — and he has supplied such data as will enable those thinking of a. i-emoval, to knowingly decide if it is expedient to seek a home in the new Republic or not.

Desiring at all times to pui'sue the quiet and retired walks of private life, the author of the following work would not have made his travels in Texas the leading subject of a publication, had not her vast and luxuriant plains and oth«r more romantic scenery, first suggested the idea — an idea that has grown in strength every day, since the effect of combined causes, not the least among which ma}' be mentioned the fact of the entire absence of any work on the subject, from which can be extracted such information as comes home to the every day pursuits of men. or one that has been written with that independence of thought, and strict impartiality, which should ever be the aim and end of the Historian who aspires to an enduring and honourable fame, when he shall sleep with his Fathers^

PREFACE,

The excess of kindness in the bosoms of many of the Author's friends has, on diilercnt occasions, prompted thein to proffer their advice and assistance; but whether an innocent vanity is an inherent principle in the bosom of any man, or whether the Author has mistaken his calHng, remains yet to be seen.. He frankly acknowledges that he is and has been determined to e^spress his own opinions; to wear all the honours and bear all the obloquy which this volume may call forth. Were he now to submit his labours to a committee of particular friends, thero i.s much reason to fear they would reverse the history of the Hatter's Sign, narrated by Dr. Franklin, and in place of leaving the only valuable part about it, might make large additions of useless matter, while defacing the paints, for w^hich the Author indulges a fraternal feeling, nearly allied to that of a fond parent for a darling child.

In the composition of the work, if the Author has studied, it has been to produce an original and correct ))icture. He has selected no model — it is an off-hand production throughout; and if, under such circrmstances, it were impossible to avoid colours which may have been used before, it is not the result of a mind affected with the spirit of plagiarism, but the natural offspring of desultory reading, and intercourse with the world, and that sort of instinct which has at dl times imperceptibly drawn him away from fixed foshions and rules.

Had he departed from the usual tenor of his way, he would have approached much nearer to the orders of the day; yet those wdio are impartial in their judgments will esteem his labours none the less because emanating from a pen wholly untrammeled and uninfluenced by any man or set of men; and whatever course he might have pursued, he could not have escaped the shafts of criticism, levelled, as they always arc, at every Author wh.o doc.

PREFACE.

not choose to surrender his birthright, and endorse what others, in their superabundant wisdom, may choose to dictate.

There is no class of men in the world more to be pitted, or i«ore obnoxious to all the courtesies and decencies of life, than illiberal crkics. Their only aim is to discover VI' manufacture faults for others, and upon their success in ?uch laudable business, depend their reputation and their revenues. As the end and aim of their being is to growl, were perfection itself permitted to visit the earth, they would bark all the louder, and howl the viiore ludicrous, in dread of the doom of starvation. No sin in an Author is so provoking, as that of being above the reach of their shallow judga^ent— no crime so unpardonable as dignified contempt. Critics are an unconditional nuisance. False lights to the near-sighted. Dampers to the timorous, oliosts to the over-sensitive and scrupulous genius. Imj.otent and despised by the high-minded, and they are positive torments to themselves. Heaven reform them, and pardon their sins I

THE AUTHOR.

HISTORY OF TEXAS.

Chapter I

Texas is bounded on the East by the State of Louisiana, North by Red river, West by the Rio Grande, and South by the Gulf of Mexico; supposed to contain an area of about 300,000 square miles, upwards of 1 40,000 inhabitants, exclusive of Indians, and embraces all the climates common between the 26 and 42 degrees of North latitude.

In this vast extent of country there is, of course, every variety of soil ; and in order to acquaint the reader with the most prominent features, the country may appropriately be divided into three parts, each of which will be found adapted to the growth of different and distinct commodities.

The firs\ division embraces a distance of about 400 miles in length, commencing with the eastern boundary on the Sabine rivoi , and extending West to the Rio Grande, 2

HISTORY OF TEXAS.

and in width, from the Gulf of Mexico, an average of CO tniles: 2ndly, the high, dry and undulating country conitnencing near the Sabine and Red rivers, and extending vvestvvai-d to v^athin from 20 to 30 miles of the Rio Grande, und North to the Colorado mountains: 3rdly, the high and rolling table lands North and West from the mountains.

In the first of these divisions, much of the soil is an alluvial <leposit, resting on a bed of shells, and a section between the Sabine and San Jacinto rivers is comparatively unproductive and unfit for agricultural purposes. Between the 8an Jacinto and Safl Antonia rivers there is much soil of the best quality, and such is adapted to the culture of cotton, sugar, rice, figs, oranges, &:c.; from the San Antonia to the Rio Grande, the soil is more diversified and better supplied with water, and all things considered, except timber, is iBore valuable the any other pqj|;tion of the country bordering on the Gulf.

This first division, however, may be considered less friendly to health than any other portion of TexavS. Timber is scarce, water is impure, and consequently unwholesome chills and fevers are common; the annoyance from musquetoes, flies and other nauseous insects is mtolerable for man or beast, and the climate in this low country, enervating in tlie extreme, creating in the hot months a degree of lassitude truly insupportable; besides, for many months in the year, the roads, which are much better defined on some maps extant, than they are on the face of the country, are impassible, and such is the nature of the soil, that durable thoroughfares will never be constructed unless at enormous expense.

Yet its near approximation to the sea, the fertility of some of the soil, and the fish and oysters in the bays and rivers appear to render this division inviting to emigrants,

HISTORY OF. TEXAS.

and they declare themselves blest with the finest sea breezes m the world: an assertion which is in part true, otherwise a residence almost any where within the limits of the first division would absolutely be intolerable.

The 2nd division possesses many advantages over the first: it is better supplied with water, is beautifully diversified with prairie and timber lands, and an average of as rich soil, affording a great variety of native grapes, plums, &c. &c., is adapted to almost every description of vegetables common to the Southern and Middle States of the

Union.

The 3rd division north and west of the mountanis, is decidedly the finest portion of Texas; tlie air is pure and elastic, the water in cool runnmg streams, is as clear as crystal, the soil generally sufficiently rich to produce a bountiful harvest; and here wheat and all kinds of smat grain will flourish— an advantage possessed but by a small portion of country below. But this region is not at present the abode of white men. Wild horses, wild Indians, and almost every description of wild game abound, and claim here to be "lords of the soil; but like every thing else, their davs are numbered; and soon, very soon, the smoke Will be "ascending from the settler's cabin, the prairies will be transformed into cultivated fields, and the growl of the prowling wolf, and neighing of the wild horse will be heard no more,— but in their stead, the notes of vn-- tuous industry will fall upon the ear, and it is to be hoped the spire of the seminary of learning and the village church will be seen peering through the beautifully wooded groves that now adorn this lovely country. '" To a lover of nature this division of Texas offers a most delicious feast. The scenery is truly grand and imposing, presenting, as it does, the extensive and verdant orairies sprinkled over with lovely islands of timber, no-

12 HISTORY •)!■ T :XA3.

ble rivers and angry cataracts. The liigh and abrupt precipices, lifting in many places their lofty summits apparently to the clouds, all unite in forming a splendid panorama truly sublime.

On the wide spread carnet of these beautiful j)lains, and near by some placid stream nave ! frequently sought repose and respite from the cares of this world, and while gazing upon the dotted vault of heaven, and listenmg to the lowmurmuring waters, enjoyed a luxury in quietness no where else to be found; and when awakened by the primitive songsters of the forrest, have reviewed the works of the Ahnighty, untouched by the rude hand of man, and sighed for the presence of my own dear children, and a few friends to adopt this country for my home and my grave.

Amid such scenes I involuntarily turned my thoughts to my native country, and the busy throng among whom I have been accustomed to move, to the happy family circle that I once enjoyed, and objects yet remaining of my tender regard who were then far, far away: perchance thought I, we shall meet no more, perhaps the last remaining tie to bind me to earth is now broken, and, my children may be numbered among the dead, or perhaps here, surrounded by real dangers, my own pilgrimage upon earth may be ended, and those for whom alone I have lived, or desired to live, and for whom my days of toil and sleepless ni'dits have been devoted, may soon be thrown upon the tender mercies of the world.

Such reflections were often to me impressively sorrowful, and required a mighty eflbrt of the mind to divest them of a form of reality, and to gain a belief that even here, far removed from civilization, the hand of a beneficen, Beino- could be easily traced and his promises to the fatherless and widow realised.

HISTOYR OF TEXAS. y^

When sore affliction throws his tlart, We are prone to quail beneath the rod : With chastened pride and sincere heart, We seek tho long forgotten God.

'Twas thus with me ; the desert taught Lesson!! with bitter truth replete ; They instructed dearly, but they brought My spirit to its Maker's feel.

Prom the foregoing general view of the three natural divisions of the country, it is evident that nature has been bountiful, and when all her resources are developed by the ingenuity and industry of man, and these solitudes inhabited by a moral and intelligent community, Texas will indeed be a delightful country ; presenting no considerable obstacles to the cheap and easy construction of speed;y channels of communication, from one extremity to the other. The products of her soil will be transported to the shores of the Gulf, without much delay or expen ei and the comforts and luxuries of other climes will pour into her lap in exact proportion to the wants and ability of the inhabitants to consume them.

Texas was formerly claimed by both Spain and the United States, and became the subject of a long negociation between the two goverments; the result of which was a relinquishment on the part of the United States to the territory in question. There has, however, always been those among us who have viewed the country with a wishful eye, a feeling in which the government have at times participated; and president Jackson expended a few thousand of the people's money in an abortive attempt to purchase the country from Mexico. So sanguine, too, was the old hero of success that he went so far as to offer the governorship of Texas to a prominent member of his party, in North Carolina, — he was however doomed to

14 HISTORY O: TEXAS.

disappointment as well in this as some other measures ol greater importance.

Again there is, and has long been many of our citizens who view a further extension of territory as dangerous to the integrity of the Union, and have constantly manifested a determined opposition to measures of such tendency; and while our party have invariably asserted that in fixing the Sabine as the south western boundary of the United States, the American Secretary was outwitted by Don Ennis De Onis, the Spanish Minister. Others, with perhaps equal information, have ascribed to the Hon. John Q. Adams, motives wholly unworthy of an American Statesman, and a narrow-minded jealousy of the grow- :nn- importance of the Southern and slave holding portions of the republic. Neither of these positions are entitled to any credit or belief, and are only worthy of notice as showing the mere ebullitions of party warfare. Be this as it may, the country, thus far, has rather been a cmse than a blessing to any of the numerous claimants, bei/ig first wrested from the natives by Spain, regained by the Mexicans and rightful owners, and by a similar process to that used by Spain in conquest, is now in the possession of North Americans.

Spanish settlements were made in Texas as early as 1C92, these, how^ever, were little else than trading estab. lishments, and missions for making proselytes to the Cath olic faith. Here the pious fathers of the church received the red men of the forest and ppirie, and with a bible in one hand, and a dagger in the other, taught them a new, and doubtless, as they believed, a more acceptable mode ;0f worshiping the Great Spirit. Previous to this, the customs of the natives were not dissimilar to those of other tribes of American Indians: they lived by the chase — ^the ties of nature were of short duration, often leaving the parental wigwam at an early age, soon forgetting the father and mother that had watched over their infancy, and every kindred bond. The Cathoh"c clergy who were employed instructing these children of nature, performed their duties with much zeal; yet, when once domesticated in their mode of exciting them to do well, or in punishing them for doing ill, even to the oldest, the treatment was more like such as is usual towards little children, than people of mature age; and in no instance was any crueltv or severity indulged in.

Eight hours out of twenty-four, were allotted for labor; two hours for prayer, and the remainder for relaxation and repose; and when they were to be assembled for any purpose, the priests sounded a bell which promptly congregated the copper faces of all ages sizes and sexes.

They were required to rise with the sun and spend the first hour at mass, and on returning from their devotions a breakfast was prepared, consisting of rice, roots, venison, &;c. ; when the family of each wigwam sent a bark vessel to the master of ceremonies for their allowance, and an extra share was always served to those who made the greatest proficiency in crossing themselves and learning their catechism; one hour was allowed for the enjoyment of the table which afforded but little variety; for here the natives, not unlike some natives of every other country, were not furnished with that spice of life, called variety, but might, to their hearts content, feast their eyes on the singular paintings which adorned the mission walls; some of which represented a view of heaven and hell, drawn in the most imposing colors, exhibiting figures of a happ)^ and beautiful appearance, and also some of the most horrid and miserable aspect, while their spiritual teachers were enjoying the Bubstantial comfai'ts of life, and who, though in this remote wilderness, they appeared to relish luxuries quite as well us those whose lots were cast in more civilized communities, and often regaled themselves with a bottle of Oporto and its necessary trimmings.

A somewhat regular government in these half Monarchical, half Republics was instituted, magistrates and other officers were appointed who assisted the priests in exercising unlimited authority; but much to their credit, the mode of punishing any moral or religious delinquency was tempered with mildness and mercy, and in these little communities bolts and bars w'ere unnecessary, and thefts were unknown.

Such were the first settlements in Texas, claiming to be civilized, but have now past away; and in treading the same ground and visiting the cemeteries of the dead, I can truly declare that emotions were excited which I cannot describe. Here lie in promiscuous confusion, the Christian and Indian w^arrior and in the sleep of death, to awake no more until all the nations of the earth are summoned to their final account, while every tiring tiiat meets the eyo tells of a by-gone race, and the sweet and plaintive notes t )f Christian devotion which have here been chanted but are heard no more.

Although the standard of the Cross was planted here 144 years ago, it does not now proudly wave in the breeze, and indeed throughout the whole extent of Tcxas^ at the present time, there is but one protestant house that is exclusively appropriated to the worship of God, and few there are who enter that.

Thou impress of time, your implacable sway Exlends over all thai I see : The great and the mighty must yield to decay All nature is subject to thee.

But as I look back on the years that have fled, Since those Missions first rose from the sand, As I sigh over the moss-covered tombs of the de»J, I can trace out a merciful hand.

HISTORY OP TEXAS. ^y

Since the days of Christopher Columbus, North and South America have been theatres of mighty and important events, and it is well for mankind to review from time to time, the gradual changes that are unceasingly occurring in the moral and political world which not unprofitably call to mind the successive alterations in our mdividual, temporal, and physical condition, to the final dissolution of the body, and entrance on a new era of the most absorbing interest.

At the eventful period of the discovery of America, the whole continent was inhabited by numerous tribes of red men who were destitute of the arts and sciences that distinguish the present age, and were also exempt from most of the vices that now corrode and canker what is popularly called civilized life.

Among this great family of native Americans, the Mexican tribe stood foremost in the rank of improvement, and their wealth and riches, much of which consisted in the precious metals, enticed the cupidity of Spanish invaders, who eventually subjected them to the most grievous and humiliating bondage.

The history of the rapine and murders coiwnitted in this fair country by Cortez and in his successor's, would fill a large volume, and it is foreign to the presciU purpose to more than briefly allude to them in markmg the progress of events in a section of America contiguous to, and at that time part and parcel of what is row denominated the Republic of Texas.

At the time of the Spanish invpsion of Mexico, conquest was the leading policy of Chr-^tian nations, and the specious pretext for all their cruelties, and entire disregard for the rights of others, was the avowed desire to inculcate the maxims and multiply numbers in the Redeemer's 3

.a HISTJRFOF TEXAS.

I o

kingdom; and without arrogating to m}'self the pnvilego of scrutinizing too closely the motives which incite men to action; yet I am well convinced, that from the beginning of the world, as well as at the time I write, might end stratagem have often been substituted for right, at the the expense of the more sincere and less vicious members of the human family; and then, as r>ow, accumulations and conquests, enjoyed only for a brief season, passing rapidly from hand to hand, and at every exchange bearing the impress of something peculiar to the age.

Whether the rapid decline in every thing noble and great in the Spanish nation is to be attributed to thc^. chastening hand of Providence for her unnatural transgnsssors; and the mines of visible wealth ir^ Mexico was the fatal instrument used, it is not my province to express a decided opinion; I only wish to state facts fron> which my readers may draw satisfiictory conclusions: certain it is, however, that the retrogade march of the Spaniards, as a distinct people, commenced at no remote period from the conquest, of Mexico; and after years of misrule, oppression and disorder, Spanish authority was banished the country; a prominent but unworthy leader in which work was Don Augustine Iiurbide, a royal officer of Spain.

Out of this br)rung the United Mexican States, the government of whicV differed in only two unimportant particulars, from that of the United States of the north; viz. a connection between church and state, and each state of the confederacy springing from the parent stock in embleni of the prickly pear tree, nouiishing its branches; that tree with an eagle perched on the top is the Mexican coat of arms.

Subsequent events have Made it necessaiy to infuse

into the general government a \uore energetic character

. by consolidating the delegated po^vers of the states; and

in a subsequent part of this work I will trace the causes.

HISTORY OF TEXAS. t9

and effects of the dismemberment of part of the state of Coahuilaand Texas from the Mexican confederacy, and exhibit that part as it now is, under the name of the RepubHc of Texas; a description of which it is presumed will more immediately interest the reader, and will therefore claim precedence of its History.

Chapter II

In presenting the reader with a detailed description of Texas, it is deemed proper to begin with the western boundary; tracing the Rio Grande from its source, in the Rocky mountains to its confluence with the Gulf of Mexico, and continuing with the principal water courses that intersect the country to the river Sabine, forming in part the eastern boundary between Texas and tlie United States of the north.

The view is intended to embrace the country generally adjacent to, and between, the water courses; but not to comprehend every minute peculiarity to be found in either soil, minerals, or climate; much of M'hich cannot be precisely ascertained, otherwise but by the slow but sure developements of time; it is nevertheless certain, that what is here embodied will be amply sufficient to put the reader in possession of all the material information he can desire, and for every practicable purpose, quite as valuable as if a volume five times the size of this was written on the subject.

Rio Grande. — This river has its source in the mountains, where the country has not been thoroughly explored, but as far as known in its windings through the mountain passes, exhibits scenery of grand sublimity; its head waters flowing through the territory of the White Bear, and

HISTORY OE TEXAS. g^

the day is probably not far distant when this region can boast any other inhabitants th?n the Red man and wild game that are at present the undisputed lords of the soil.

In descending this river, the first considerable settlement is Santa Fee, an ancient Spanish town on the East bank. This is a place of wealth and of great importance in point of trade; affords a market for large quantrties of foreign and American goods, which are mostly transported over land from St. Louis, in the United States, a computed distance of 1500 miles; it is believed to be a lucrative business, notwithstanding the great distance and consequent delay; prices of most commodities being enormously high, and the traders return laden with rich furs and peltry and Mexican gold and silver.

At no remote period this trade will probably be prosecuted through another channel; the plains of Texas affording, as they do, every facility for the construction of good roads at small expense through the whole distance from the heads of navigation on the Colorado, Brassos, or Buffalo Bayou and by this route the land carriage to Santa Fee will be shortened down at least two thirds.

A particular description of the town is deemed unnecessary here, but may be found in the journal of the brave and lamiented Lieutenant Pike, published in 1807, the hero of York, Upper Canada, then Gen. Pike, lost his life at the last mentioaed place during the late war with England, but he had lived to immortalize himself by his exploring expeditions and noble daring, in one of which he made his debut in Santa Fee, a bare-headed prisoner, when the town was the residence of the Governor of the interior provinces of Mexico, and even in this situation he turned his misfortunes to good account, by collecting important information which was spread before his countrymen, and by his inteUigence and invincible courage elicited the respect and applause of the enemies of himself and countiy ; and last, though not least, by the overflowing of a kind and benevolent heart, as disclosed on many occasions, and particularly in a letter written to tlie partner of hia bosom on the day before his demise. "I will dedicate these few moments to you, my love," was the last proof, of affection, and is worthy of the character of the soldier, husband and father, and well might any virtuous and intelligent woman adore a man possessing such a soul, and deeply deplore his untimely loss, to his family and country.

Much of the country below Santa Fee, is unfit for cultivation in many place-s, on both sides of the river, a distance of from 20 to 40 miles in width. The river affords but small facilitie-s for commerce: vessels of more than 5 feet draught cannot often ascend over 110 miles, and in that short distance the navigation is difficult and dangerous on account of the rapidity of the current, and the frequent changes in the channel, caused by land shifts and quick sands which form its bed. In many places the banks are high, uniting however, little that is pleasing to the eye. and not unlike the Mississippi in respect to the never-endmg undermining of the water which during the freshets frequently opens new channels across the points, precipitating whole acres of land and timber into a waste of waters.

The noble Steamers w^hicii give life and animation on the waters of the United States, nor any thing like them, will ever penetrate far into the desert of the Rio Grande. Many years ago a Steam navigation Company was chai-- tered by the Mexican Government, with exclusive privileges of colonizing the adjacent country and navigating the river to the exclusion of all others for 15 yearsj but it was found impvacucable, and was tlxerefore abandoned, and will not probably be undertaken soon agani.

Mdamoms.-rhh town is situated on the west bank or the llio Grande, 30 miles above the mouth; contams a population of some 8,000, mostly Mexicans, who are not remarkable for their honest or industrious habits, and are in the a-regate an ignorant and illiterate set of bemgs. There are, however a few resident foreigners, and among them a pretty httle French girl, who follows the trade hlanchisseuse^ and barber, and a first rate barber she is, and actually shaves with her own hand gentlemen ot the first water, and her journeymen waits on the crowd; such a trade for a lady was a novelty to me and I of course patronised the fldr proprietress. And

I found the best, dresser of hair,

A barber who shaves bui don't bleed ;

I vv:is tempted to not tell the affair,

Lest you should fret at her barberons creed.

Whilst gently she lathered my beard,

The praises of the barberess I sung,

And I liked her the more when I heard

That she %vould yield to the tune of my tongue.

The Catholic is the prevailing religion here, and the rising gen^ratioa^re taught in ^hools connected with the rhurch I dont, however, mean to intimate that the churcli disciphne exercises a pernicious influence over the minds ot the pupds; certainly not more than would be telt m bendincr the infant mind to any other mode of worship, or any discipline known in protestant schools. The pubhc buiid- ,n<.s consist of a large and somewhat elegant cathedral, a .u'stom house, which is a very commodious edihce, a neat court-house of brick, and a str ong arsenal and barracks;

* Washerwoman and barber.

24 HISTO V ( IF TEX ^ '.

there are also many store houses and private dwelhngs, which denote opulence and comfort; but the cliief and principal ornament and convenience of tlie city, and one which ar-ues best for the taste of the inhabitants, is a fine open square called La Place De Grande.