Rocky Mountain life; or Startling scenes and perilous adventures in the far west, during an expidition of three years.

Front matter

ROCKY MOUNTAIN LIFE;

OR,

S>

Chapter I

Objects of a proposed excursion. Primary plans and movements. A Digression. Rendezvous for Oregon emigrants and Santa Fe traders. Sensations on a first visit to the border Prairies. Frontier Indians. 29

Chapter II

Preparations for leaving. Scenes at Camp. Things eLs they appeared. Simplicity of mountaineers. Sleep in the open air. Character, habits, and costume of mountaineers. Heterogeneous ingredients of Company. The commandant. En route. Comical exhibition and adventure with a Spanish company. Grouse. Elm Grove. A storm. Santa Fe traders. Indian battle. 34

Chapter III

The Pottow'atomies. Crossing the Wakarousha. Adventure at the Springs.

The Caw chief. Kansas river and Indians. Pleading for whiskey. Hickory timber. Prairie tea. Scenes at the N. Fork of Blue. Wild honey. Return party. Mountaineers in California. Adventure with a buffalo. Indian atrocities. Liquor and the Fur Trade. Strict guard. High prices. 45

CHAPTER 1Y.

Country from the frontiers to Big Blue ; its geological character, &c. Novel cure for fever and ague. Indian trails. Game. Large rabbits. Antelope, and their peculiarities. Beaver cuttings. Big Blue and its vicinity. Dangerous country. Pawnee bravery. Night-alarm, (Prairies on fire.) Platte river. Predominant characteristics of the Grand Prairies, and theory explanative of of tbrnr phenomenon. Something to laugh at. “ Big Jim” and the antelope. 54

Chapter V

Deserted camp. Big Jim’s third attempt as a hunter. Buffalo and other particulars. Big Jim lying guard. Butchering. Strange selections. Extraordinary eating, and excellence cf buffalo meat. Brady’s Island. The murderer’s fate. Substitute for wood. A storm. Game in camp. Strange infatuation. Tenacity of buffalo to life, and how to hunt them. Cross S. Fork of Platte. Big Jim’s fourth adventure.

Chapter VI

Ash creek. Pawnee and Sioux battle-ground. Bread-root. The Eagle’s Nest.

Mad wolf. Number and variety of prairie wolves, — their sagacity. Mad bull. Making and curing meat. Big Jim still unfortunate. Johnson’s creek. McFarlan’s Castle. Deceptiveness of distances. Express from the Fort. Brave Bear. Bull Tail. Talk with the Indians. Speech of Marto-cogershne. Reply. Tahtungah-sana’s address. 75

Chapter VII

The Chimney. A bet. Spur of the Rocky Mountains. Scott’s Bluff. Romantic scenery. Mimic city. A pyramid. A monument. An elevated garden. Mountain sheep. An Eden. Death in camp. The wanderer’s grave. Horse creek and gold. Goche’s hole. Arrival at Fort Platte. Remarks by the way. Prairie travel. Locality and description of the Fort. Indian lodges. Migratory habits of mountain and prairie tribes. Scenes at Fort. Drunken Indians. Tragical event. Indian funeral. Speech of Etespa-huska on the death of his father. 90

Chapter VIII

Coast clear, and Trade opened. More visitors. Smoking out the natives. Incident illustrative of Indian character. Expeditions for trade. Black Hills. Rawhide. An Indian and a buffalo chase. Deep snow, extreme cold, and painful journey. L’eau-qui-court. Remarks. Lost. White river ; its valley, fruits, and game. Building site. The Devil’s Tea-pot. Troubles with Indians. Theft and its punishment. Indian soldiers. Christmas extras. Outrageous conduct. Rascality of traders. “ That Old Serpent.” Indian superstition, religious tenets and practices. Notions upon general morality. 103

Chapter IX

Dangers connected with the liquor trade. Difficulty with Bull Eagle. Scenes of bloodshed and horror. Cheating in the fur trade. How the red man becomes tutored in vice. A chief’s daughter offered in exchange for liquor. Indian mode of courtship and marriage. Squaws an article of traffic. DL vorce. Plurality of wives. 116

Chapter X

Tahtunga-egoniska. High gaming. Weur-sena Warkpollo, a strange story.

The Death Song, a tale of love. Medicine-men. Extraordinary performance of Tahtunga-mobellu. Wonderful feats of jugglery. 125

Chapter XI

Food for horses. Squaws and their performances. Dogs and dog-meat. Return to Fort. Starvation. Travel by guess. Death from drinking. Medicine-making. A Burial. Little Lodge and the French trader. A speech

CONTENTS.

ix in council. Journey to White river. High winds and snow. Intense sufferings and painful results. 135

Chapter XII

Another drunken spree. Horses devoured by wolves. An upset. A blowing up. Daring feat of wolves. A girl offered for liquor. Winter on the Platte.

Boat building. Hunting expedition. Journey up the Platte. Island camp. Narrow escape. Snow storm. Warm Spring. Pass of the Platte into the prairies. A valley. Bitter Cottonwood. Indian forts. Wild fruit. Root-digging. Cherry tea and its uses. Geology of the country. Soils, grasses, herbs, plants, and purity of atmosphere. Horse-shoe creek. A panther. Prairie dogs and their peculiarities. 143

CHAPTER XHI.

The Creek valley. The Platte as a mountain stream. Canon. Romantic prospect. Comical bear story. Perilous encounter with a wounded bull. Geological remarks. Division of party. Safety of spring travel. La Bonte’s creek. Remarks by the way. Service-berry. Deer Creek. General observations. Moccasin making. Box-elder. Bear killed. Excellence of its flesh. Different kinds of bears in Oregon and the mountains. The grizzly bear, his nature and habits. 150

Chapter XIV

Desperate encounter with a grizzly bear, and extraordinary instance of suffering. Close contest. A comical incident. Cross Platte. Canon camp. Sage trees. Mountain sheep, and all about them. Independence Rock ; why so called, and description of it. Devil’s Gate. Landscape scenery. 159

Chapter XV

Return route. Oregon trail from Independence Rock through the South Pass. Cross the Sweet Water and Platte. Mountain Fowl. Journey up Medicine Bow. Dangerous country. A fight with the Sioux. The “ Carcague.”

A surprise. Visit to the Crow village. Number and character of the Crow nation. Selling a prisoner for tobacco. Description of Laramie Plains. 165

Chapter XVI

Sibille’s-hole. Novel bitters. Chugwater. Gold. Curiosity. Affairs at the Fort. Amusements. Gambling among squaws, and game^played. Squaw dresses, and riding fashion. Items of interest to the curious, proving the intercourse of the ancient Romans with the people of this continent. 178

Chapter XVII

Singular exhibition of natural affection. Embark for the States. Scarcity of provisions and consequent hardsliip and suffering. Extraordinary daring of

X

CONTENTS.

wolves. Difficulties of navigation. Novel diet. Fishing. A fish story, and another to match it. A bull story. Hard aground and dismal situation. Extreme exposure. Cold, hungry, and wet. Again afloat. Re-supply of provisions. Camp on fire. A picture of Platte navigation. Country north of river. Adventure with a bull. Indian benevolence. Summary of hardships and deprivations. Abandon voyage. 185

CHAPTER XYm.

Hunting excursion. Thirst more painful than hunger. Geological observations. Mournful casualty. Sad scene of sepulture. Melancholy night. Voyage in an empty boat. Ruins of a Pawnee village at Cedar Bluffi Plover creek. Cache Grove. Thousand Islands. Abandon boat. Exploring company. A horrible situation. Agony to torment. Pawnee village. Exemplary benevolence of an Indian chief. Miserable fourth of July. Four days* starvation. Arrival at Council Bluff. Proceed to Independence. 193

Chapter XIX

The country between the Pawnee village and Belle vieu, and from that to Fort Leavenworth. Leave Independence for the Mountains. Meet Pawnees. Indian hospitality. Journey up the South Fork Platte. Fort Grove. Beaver creek. Bijou. Chabonard’s camp. Country described. Medicine Lodge. The Chyennes; their character and history. Arrive at Fort Lancaster. Different localities in its neighborhood. Fatal Duel. Ruins. 200

Chapter XX

Old acquaintances. Indian murders. Mode of travelling in a dangerous country Mexican traders. Summary way of teaching manners. Fort Lancaster and surrounding country. Resume journey. Cherry creek and connecting observations. Sketch of the Arapahos, their country, character, &c. Camp of free traders. Blackfoot camp. Daugherty’s creek. Observations relative to the Divide. Mexican cupidity. Strange visitors. The lone travellers. Arrive at the Arkansas. General remarks. Curious specimens of cacti. Fontaine qui Bouit, or Natural Soda fountain. Indian superstition. Enchanting scenery. Extraordinary wall of sandstone. 210

Chapter XXI

Vicinity of the Arkansas. Settlement. The Pueblo. Rio San Carlos, its valleys and scenery. Shooting by moonlight. Taos. Review of the country travelled over. Taos ; its vicinity, scenery, and mines. Ranchos and Rancheros. Mexican houses ; their domestic economy, and filth. Abject poverty and deplorable condition of the lower classes of Mexicans, with a general review of their character, and some of the causes contributing to their present degradation. The Pueblo Indians and their strange notions. Ancient temple. Character of the Pueblos. Journey to the Uintah river, and observations by the way. Taos TJtahs, Pa-utahs, Uintah and Lake Utalis. The

CONTENTS.

xi

Diggers ; misery of their situation, strange mode of lying, with a sketch of their character. The Navijos; their civilization, hostility to Spaniards, ludicrous barbarity, bravery, &c., with a sketch of their country, and why they are less favorable to the whites than formerly. 221

Chapter XXII

Uintah trade. Snake Indians; their country and character. Description of Upper California. The Eastern Section. Great Salt Lake and circumjacent country. Desert. Digger country, and regions south. Fertility of soil. Prevailing rock and minerals. Abundance of wild fruit, grain, and game. Valley of the Colorado. Magnificent scenery. Valleys of the Uintah and other rivers. Vicinity of the Gila. Face of the country, soil &c. Sweet spots. Mildness of climate, and its healthiness. The natives. Sparsity of ^ inhabitants. No government. All about the Colorado and Gila rivers. Abundance of fish. Trade in pearl oyster-shells. Practicable routes from the United States. 232

Chapter XXIII

Minerals. Western California. The Sacramento and contiguous regions. Principal rivers. Fish. Commercial advantages. Bay of San Francisco. Other Bays and Harbors. Description of the country ; territory northwest of the Sacramento ; Tlamatli Mountains ; California range and its vicinity ; southern parts ; timber, river-bottoms ; Valleys of Sacramento, del Plumas, and Tulare ; their extent, fertility, timber, and fruit ; wild grain and clover, spontaneous ; wonderful fecundity of soil, and its products ; the productions, climate, rains, and dews ; geological and mineralogical character ; face of the country ; its water ; its healtldness ; game ; superabundance of cattle, horses, and sheep, their prices, &c. ; beasts of prey ; the inhabitants, who ; Indians, their character and condition ; Capital of the Province, with other towns ; advantages of San Francisco ; inland settlements ; foreigners and Mexicans ; Government ; its full military strength. Remarks. 239

Chapter XXIV

Visitors at Uintah. Adventures of a trapping party. The Munchies, or white Indians ; some account of them. Amusements at rendezvous. Mysterious city, and attempts at its exploration, — speculation relative to its inhabitants. Leave for Fort Hall. Camp at Bear river. Boundary between the U. States and Mexico. Green valleys, &c. Country en route. Brown’s-hole. Geological observations. Soda, Beer, and Steamboat springs ; their peculiarities. Minerals. Valley of Bear river ; its fertility, timber, and abundance of wild fruit. Buffalo berries. Superior advantages of this section. Mineral tar. 250

Chapter XXV

Fort Hall ; its history, and locality. Information relative to Oregon. Boundxii

CONTENTS.

aries and extent of the territory. Its rivers and lakes, with a concise description of them severally. Abundance and variety of fish and water-fowl. Harbors and islands. Oregon as a whole ; its mountains and geographical divisions. Eastern Divison ; its wild scenery, valleys, soil, and timber ; volcanic ravages ; country between Clarke’s river and the Columbia. North of the Columbia ; its general character. Middle Division ; its valleys, prairies, highlands, and forests. Western Division; a beautiful country; extensive valleys of extraordinary fertility ; productive plains ; abundance of timber, its astonishing size and variety. A brief summary of facts. 258

Chapter XXVI

Climate of Oregon ; its variableness ; its rains ; a southern climate in a northern latitude. Productiveness ; grain, fruits, and flowers, wild and cultivated. Geological characteristics. Soils and prevailing rock. Minerals,

&c. Variety of game. Wolves. Horses, and other domestic animals. Population, white and native ; Indian tribes, their character and condition. Missionary stations, and their improvements. Present trade of Oregon. Posts of the Hudson Bay Company. Settlements. Oregon City, its situation and advantages ; about Linnton ; about Wallammette valley, Fualitine plains and Umpqua river ; Vancouvre, and its superior advantages. Kindness of Hudson Bay Company to settlers. 269

CHAPTER XVII.

The manufacturing facilities of Oregon. Commercial and agricultural advantages reviewed. Rail Road to the Pacific. Route, mode of travelling, and requisite equipment for emigrants. Importance of Oregon to the United States. Incident in the early history of Fort Hall. Why the Blackfeet are hostile, and bright spots in their character. Mild weather. Leave for the Platte. Journey to the Yampah, and sketch of the intermediate country.

New Park. Head of Grand river. The landscape. Different routes to Fort Lancaster. Old Park. 277

Chapter XXVIII

From Grand river to Bayou Salade. Observations by the way. Description of the Bayou. Voracity of magpies. Journey to Cherry creek. Country en route. Crystal creek. Abundance of game. Antelope hunting. Remarkable sagacity of wolves. Snow storms and amusement. Ravenn. Move camp. Comfortable winter quarters. Animal food conducive to general health and longevity. A laughable instance of sound sleeping. Astonishing wolfine rapacity. Beaver lodges and all about beaver. Hunting excursion. Vasques’ creek, its valleys, table lands, mountains, and prairies. Camp. Left alone. Sensations, and care tb avoid danger. A nocturnal visitor. Thrilling adventure and narrow escape. A lofty specimen of u gettin down stairs.” Geological statistics. 287

CONTENTS.

xiii

Chapter XXIX

Return to the Fort. Texan recruiting officer. New plans. Volunteer. The Chance Shot, or Special Providence. Texan camp. Country contiguous to the Arkansas, from Fontaine qui Bouit to the Rio de las Animas. Things at rendezvous. A glance at the company. Disposal of force. March up the de las Animas. The country ; Timpa valley, and its adjoining hills, to the de las Animas. The latter stream ; its canon, valley and enchanting scenery. Tedious egress. Unparalleled suffering from hunger, toil, and cold. Wolf flesh and buffalo hide. Painful consequences of eating cacti.

A feast of mule meat after seven days’ starvation. Camp at the Taos trail.

The adjacent country. Strict guard. A chase. The meet reward for treason. 300

Chapter XXX

March down the Cimarone. Junction of the two divisions. Country between the de las Animas and the Cimarone. Perilous descent. Canon of the Cimarone. Soil and prevailing rock. A fort. Grandeur and sublimity of scenery. Beauty of rocks. Cimarone of the pain. Fruits and game. Wide-spread desolation. A dreary country. Summer on the Desert. Remarks. Encounter with Indians. Nature’s nobleman. Wild horses and different modes of catching them. Failure of expected reinforcements. March into the enemy’s country. Ancient engravings upon a rock. Boy in the wolf’s den. A man lost. Forced march. Torment of thirst. Remarks. The lost found. Expulsion for cowardice, — its effect. 309

Chapter XXXI

Mexican camp. Pursuit. Advance upon Mora. Enemy discovered. Country between the Rio de las Animas and Mora ; its picturesque beauty. Admirable point of observation. Fortified position. Battle of the pass ; order of attack, passage of the river, storming the enemy’s camp, and number of killed, wounded and prisoners. Council of war. Prisoners released. Message to Amijo. Return march. Mexican army. Attacked, and results of action. Mexican bravery. Retreat. Cross the Table Mountain. New species of wild onions. March dow7n the de las Animas. Discouragements accumulate. Disband. Sketch cf factions. Texan prisoners. Arrival of reinforcements. Battle of the Arroyo: killed, wounded, and prisoners. Retreat of Amijo. “ Stampede.” Frightful encounter with the Cunt^nches and Kuyawras. Discharge of troops. Affair with Capt. Cook. Surrender to U. S. Dragoons, and failure of expedition. Return to Texas. Journey to the Platte. Country between the Arkansas and Beaver creek. Feasting at camp. Crows’ eggs. Lateness of season. Snow-storm in June. An Indian fort. Serio-comico adventure with a wolf. Indians. Song of the .night-bird. 318

XIV

CONTENTS.

Chapter XXXII

Lost. Night on the Prairie. Head of the Kansas river. Minerals. Country. Gold. Wonderful incident relative to a wounded bull. Indians. Join the Arapahos. Moving village. Country between Beaver creek and the Platte. Canon. Reach Fort Lancaster. Fortune bettered. News from the States. Murder. Extraordinary instances of human tenacity to life. Arrival of Indians. Theft. Chyenne outrage. Return of Oregon emigrants. “ Old Bob,” and his adventures. A “ Protracted Meeting,” or Indian Medicine-making. Indian oath. Jaunt to the mountains. Mountain scenery. Camp on Thompson’s creek. Wild fruits. Concentration of valleys. Romantic 'dew. A gem in the mountains. Grand river pass. Salt lakes. Astonishing scope of vision. The black-tailed deer. Peculiarity in horses. Remarkable natural fortification. Return. Travelling by guess. 331

Chapter XXXIII

Newspapers. False reports. Singular grasses. Sale of skins at Fort Lancaster.

An excursion. An incident. Camp. Huge horns. Leopard. Panther. Slaughter of eagles. Dressing skins. The hunter’s camp. Vasques’ creek.

The weather. Return of comrades to Fort. Sweets of solitude. Exposure in a snow-storm. The canon of S. Fork Platte. A ridge. A valley. Beautiful locality. Choice site for a settlement. Flowers in February.

A hunting incident. Fate of the premature flowers. Adventure with a sheep. Discovered by Indians. A pleasant meeting. Camp at Crystal* creek. Thoughts of home. Resolve on going. Commence journey. The caravan. “ Big Timber.” Country to the “ Crossing.” Big Salt Bottom. Flowers. A stranger of other lands. Difficulty with Indians. “ Friday.” Tedious travelling. No timber. Detention. Country. Pawnee Fork. Mountain and Spanish companies. Spy Buck, the Shawnee war-chief. Pawnee Fork. — Cure for a rattlesnake’s bite. Further detention. Sketch of adjacent country. Pawnee Rocks. En route with Friday. Musquetoes. Observations. Friday as a hunter. 346

Chapter XXXIV

The Arapaho American, a sketch of real life. Tenets of the mountain Indians in reference to a future state of rewards and punishments. The “ water bull.” Country between Cow creek and Council Grove. Inviting locatity for settlement. Sudden rise of water. Separate routes. Dangerous travel ling. Osage village. Osages, and all about them. Arrival at Van Buren, Arkansas. Concluding remarks. 357

View on Missouri River opposite Fort Leavenworth.

ROCKY MOUNTAIN LIFE

*

Chapter I

Objects of a proposed excursion. — Primary plans and movements. — A. digression — Rendezvous for Oregon emigrants and Santa Fe traders. — Sensations on a first visit to the border Prairies. — Frontier Indians.

My purpose in visiting the Rocky Mountains, and countries adjacent, having hitherto proved a fruitful source of inquiry to the many persons I meet, when aware of my having devoted three years to travel in those remote regions, and I am so plied with almost numberless other questions, I know of no better way to dispose of them satisfactorily, than by doing what I had thought of at the outset, to wit : writing a book.

But, says one, more books have been already written upon subjects of a kindred nature, than will ever find readers. True, indeed ; yet I must venture one more ; and this much I promise at the start : it shall be difierent, in most respects, from all that have preceded it ; and if I fail to produce an agreeable variety of adventures, interwoven with a large fund of valuable information, then I shall not have accomplished my purpose.

Yet, ‘why did I go ? — what was my object?5 Let me explain: Dame Nature bestowed upon me lavishly that innate curiosity, and fondness for things strange and new, of which every one is more or less possessed. Phrenologists would declare my organ of Inquisitiveness to be largely developed ; and, certain it is, I have a great liking to tread upon unfrequented ground, and mingle among scenes at once novel and romantic. Love of adventure, then, was the great prompter, while an enfeebled state of health sensibly admonished me to seek in other parts that invigorating air and climate denied by the diseased atmosphere of a populous country. I also wished to acquaint myself with the geography of those comparatively unexplored regions, — their geological character, curiosities, resources, and natural advantages, together with their real condition, present inhabitants, inducements to emigrants, and most favorable localities for settlements, to enable me to speak from personal knowledge upon subjects so interesting to the public 'wind, at the present time, as are the above. Here, then, were 3 * (29'

RENDEZVOUS OF OREGON EMIGRANTS.

objects every way worthy of attention, and vested with an importance that would render my excursion not a mere idle jaunt for the gratification of selfish curiosity. This much by way of prelude, — now to the task in hand.

While yet undecided as to the most advisable mode of prosecuting my intended enterprise, on learning that a party of adventurers were rendezvoused at Westport, Mo., preparatory to their long and arduous journey to the new-formed settlements of the Columbia river, I hastened to that place, where I arrived in the month of May, 1841, with the design of becoming one of their number. In this, however, I was doomed to disappointment by being too late. A few weeks subsequent marked the return of several fur companies, from their annual excursions to the Indian tribes inhabiting the regions adjacent to the head-waters of the Platte and Arkansas rivers, whose outward trips are performed in the fall months. Impatient at delay and despairing of a more eligible opportunity, for at least some time to come,

I made prompt arrangements with one of them, to accompany it, en route , as far as the Rocky Mountains, intending to proceed thereafter as circumstances or inclination might suggest. This plan of travelling was adhered to, notwithstanding the detention of some three months, which retarded its prosecution.

I would here beg indulgence of the reader to a seeming digression. The peculiar locality of the places to whose vicinity he is now introduced, owing to the deep interest cherished in the public mind relative to the Oregon country, will doubtless call for more than a mere passing notice : I allude to the towns of Independence and Westport. Situated as they are, at the utmost verge of civilization, and upon the direct route to Oregon and regions adjacent, they must retain and command, as the great starting points for emigrants and traders, that importance already assumed by general consent. Their facilities of access from all parts of the Union, both by land and water, are nowhere exceeded. The proud Missouri rolls its turbid waves within six miles of either place, opening the highway of steam communication, whileN numberless prime roads that converge from every direction, point to them as their common focus. Thus, the staid New Englander may exchange his native hills for the frontier prairies in the short interval of two weeks ; and in half that time the citizen of the sunny South may reach the appointed rendezvous ; and, nearer by, the hardy emigrant may commence his long over-land journey, from his own door, fully supplied with all the necessaries for its successful termination.

Independence is the seat of justice for Jackson county, Mo., about four hundred miles west by north of St. Louis, and contains a population of nearly two thousand. Westport is a small town in the same county, near the mouth of the Kansas river, — three miles from the Indian territory, and thirty below the U. S. Dragoon station at Fort Leavenworth. The regular routes to Santa Fe and Oregon date their commencement at these places. The country in this vicinity is beginning to be generally settled by thrifty farmers, from whom all the articles necessary for travellers and traders, may be procured upon reasonable terms.

Starting from either of the above points, a short ride bears the adventurer across the state line, and affords him the opportunity of taking his ini. tiatory lessons amid the realities of prairie life. Here, most of the trading and emigrant companies remain encamped for several weeks, to recruit

I

BOUDKK-PRAUUES AND INDIANS.

their animals and complete the needful arrangements, prior to undertaking the toilsome and dangerous journey before them.

The scenery of this neighborhood is truly delightful. It seems indeed like one Nature’s favored spots, where Flora presides in all her regal splendor, and with the fragrange of wild flowers, perfumes the breath of spring and lades the summer breeze with willing incense ; — now, sporting beside her fountains and revelling in her dales, — then, smiling from her hill-tops, or luxurating beneath her groves.

I shall never forget the pleasing sensations produced by my first visit to the border-prairies. It was in the month of June, soon after my arrival at Westport. The day was clear and beautiful. A gentle shower the preceding night had purified the atmosphere, and the laughing flowerets, newly invigorated from the nectarine draught, seemed to vie with each other in the exhalation of their sweetest odors. The blushing strawberry, scarce yet divested of its rich burden of fruit, kissed my every step. The buttercup, tulip, pink, violet, and daisy, with a variety of other beauties, unknown to the choicest collections of civilized life, on every side captivated the eye and delighted the fancy.

The ground was clothed with luxuriant herbage. The grass, where left uncropped by grazing herds of cattle and horses, had attained a surprising growth. The landscape brought within the scope of vision a most magnificent prospect. The groves, clad in their gayest foliage and nodding to the wind, ever and anon, crowned the gentle acclivities or reared their heads from the valleys, as if planted by the hand of art to point the wayfarer to Elysian retreats. The gushing fountains, softly breathing their untaught melody, before and on either hand, at short intervals, greeted the ear and tempted the taste. The lark, linnet, and- martin, uniting with other feathered songsters, poured forth heir sweetest strains in one grand concert, and made the air vocal with their warblings ; and the brown-plumed grouse, witless of the approach of man, till dangerously near, would here and there emerge wellnigh from under foot, and whiz through the air with almost lightning speed, leaving me half frightened at her unlocked for presence and sudden exit. Hither and yon, truant bands of horses and cattle, from the less inviting pastures of the settlements, were seen in the distance, cropping the choice herbage before them, or gambolling in all the pride of native freedom.

Amid such scenes I delight to wander, and often, at this late day, will my thoughts return, unbidden, to converse with them anew. There is a charm in' the loneliness — an enchantment in the solitude — a witching variety in the sameness, that must ever impress the traveller, when, foi the first time, he enters within the confines of the great western prairies.

One thing further and I will have done with this digression. Connected with the foregoing, it may not be deemed amiss to say something in relation to the Indian tribes inhabiting the territory adjacent to this common camping-place. The nearest native settlement is some twelve miles distant, and belongs to the Shawnees. This nation numbers in all fourteen or fifteen hundred men, women and children. Their immediate neighbors are the Delawares and Wyandotts, — the former claiming a population of eleven nundred, and the latter, three or four hundred. Many connected with these Iribes outstrip the nearer whites, in point of civilization and Tefine-

PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING.

ment, — excelling them both in honesty and morality, and all that elevates and ennobles the human character. Their wild habits have become in a great measure subdued by the restraining influences of Christianity, and they themselves transformed into industrious cultivators of the soil, — occupying neat mansions with smiling fieLds around them.

Nor are they altogether neglectful of the means of education. The mission schools are generally well attended by ready pupils, in no respect less backward than the more favored ones of other iands. It is not rare even, considering the smallness of their number, to meet among them with persons of liberal education and accomplishments. Their mode of dress assimilates that of the whites, though, as yet, fashion has made comparatively but small inroads. The unsophisticated eye would find prolific source for amusement in the uncouth appearance of their females on public occasions. Perchance a gay Indian maiden comes flaunting past, with a huge fur-hat awkwardly placed upon her head, — embanded by broad strips of figured tin, instead of ribbons, — and ears distended with large flattened rings of silver, reaching to her shoulders ; and here another, solely habited in a long wollen under-dress, obtrudes to view, and skips along in all the pride and pomposity of a regular city belle ! Such are sights by no means uncommon.

These tribes have a regular civil government of their own, and all laws instituted for the general welfare are duly respected. They are, also, becoming more temperate in their habits, fully convinced that ardent spirits have hitherto proved the greatest enemy to the red man. The churches of various christain denominations, established among them, are in a flourishing condition, and include with their members many whose lives of examplary piety adorn their professions.

Taken as a whole, the several Indian tribes, occupying this beautiful and fertile section of country, are living witnesses to the softening and benign influences of enlightened Christian effort, and furnish indubitable evidence of the susceptibility of the Aborigine for civilization and improvement.

Chapter II

Preparations for leaving.— Scenes at Camp.— Things as they appeared.— Simplicity of mountaineers. — Sleep in the open air. — Character, habits, and costume of mountaineers. — Heterogeneous ingredients of Company. — The commandant. — En

route. — Comical exhibition and adventure with a Spanish company.— Grouse.

Elm Grove. — A storm. — Santa Fe traders.— Indian battle.

*- After many vexatious delays and disappointments, the time was at length fixed for our departure, and leaving Independance on the 2d of September, I proceeded to join the encampment without the state line. It was nearly night before I reached my destination, and the camp-fires were already

Shawnee Maiden. — Page 34.

>o

SCENES AT CAMP.

lighted, in front of which the officiating cook was busily engaged in preparing the evening repast. To the windward were the dusky forms of ten or fifteen men, — some standing, others sitting a la Turk , and others halfreclining* or quietly extended at full length upon the ground, — watching the operative of the culinary department with great seeming interest.

Enchairing myself upon a small log, I began to survey the surrounding objects. In the back ground stood four large Connestoga waggons, with ample canvass tops, and one dearborn, all tastefully drawn up in crescent form. To the right a small pyramid-shaped tent, with its snow-white covering, disclosed itself to the eye, and presented an air of comfort. To the left the caravan animals, securely picketed, at regular distances of some fifteen yards apart, occupied an area of several acres. Close at hand a crystal streamlet traced its course, murmuring adown the valley ; and still beyond, a lovely grove waved its branches in the breeze, and contributed its willing mite to enliven and beautify the scene. The camp-fires in front, formed a kind of gateway to a small enclosure, shut in as above described. Here were congregated the company, or at least, that portion of it yet arrived. Some had already spread their easily adjusted couches upon the ground, in readiness for the coming night, and seemed only awaiting supper to forget their cares and troubles in the sweet embrace of sleep.