The new West; or, California in 1867-1868.

Preface

^^ The New West ! " Within a few years ^^ The West " has ceased to be the great prairie region of the American Continent. The prosperous States founded there are now the Central States of the Union. Beyond those rich fields, beyond the wide and half-barren plains, beyond the RockyMountains, the alkaline deserts and the Sierra Nevada, is another region, which is ^' The New West," Avith a different cHmate, a changed flora and fauna, a strange scenery, and new outline of landscape, novel productions, and conditions utterly unknoAAii to our branch of the Anglo-Saxon race. Here, under circumstances, in many respects more favorable than the Anglo-American has ever enjoyed, a new and poAverful community is springing up, and possibly a new race forming. This land is mainly terra incognita to Americans.

My plan in this work is to sketch such features of California and her process of development, as most travelers have thus far neglected. In this view, I have taken least interest in her mining enterprises, but most in what is to be the basis of her future prosperity — her agriculture, fruit-culture and vine-growing, and such undeveloped branches as silk-worm growing, and wine-making.

PEEFACE.

In treating of this latter^ I may have spoken so plainly as to offend many in the Pacific States, but they must remember that nothing is so much needed by an important branch of production, like this, in its first beginnings, as honest criticism.

The treatment of the Chinese, by the lowest class, and the oppressive legislation upon them, have also been described without extenuation. The truth in such matters, is the best tribute a traveler can pay to the sense of justice of the more civilized Califomians who detest these abuses equally with ourselves.

If in my outline sketches of this remarkable region and its vigorous people, I have given anything like my own impressions of the divine climate, the unique and awe-inspiring scenery, the singular and delightfully varied vegetation and productions, the enterprise, and intelhgence, and generosity of the population, redeeming even the facts connected with the origin of their civilization, and the opening presented here for the surplus intelHgent labor of our crowded communities, I shall have succeeded in my task.

Hereafter, when a powerful and cultivated society has been developed on the Pacific coast, and perchance a new and even more enhghtened and prosperous Kepublic than its parent has been built up, these notes of its ^* Origins '' may still be preserved to show what were the humble and primitive foundations of so grand a structure of civilization and prosperity.

CHARLES LORING BRACE.

Hastings-upon-IIudson, A^pril, 1869.

OOISTTENTS

Chapter I

The Trip to San Francisco.— Its Tleasures.— The Steamer Company. — Savants and Explorers. — The Isthmus. — A Railroad through a Conservatory. — The Panama Railroad. — Steamers to the Isthmus. — Tea-trade. — The Pacific Voyage. — The Pacific Mail Steamship Company ; its Capacity and Success ; Organization, Economy ; its China Line ; Competition with Pacific Railroad.— Exaggerated Expectations 13-28

Chapter II

Crystal Springs Ca:non. — California Scenery. — A Romantic Canon. — The Vegetation and Small Animals. — Wild Flowers. — Singular Trees. — The Red Woods. — Climate. — The Coast Range. — Objections to it. — ^Novelty of Aspect .... 30-35

Chapter III

San Francisco. — Difficulties of its Site. — ^A City of Flowers. — The Public Buildings. — Want of Parks. — The Dust. — Its invigorating Climate. — The Key-hole Breeze. — Summer a Cool Season. — The Success of Universal Suffrage. — Police. — Outward Marks of Civilization. — Evils of Hotel-life 36-43

VI CONTENTS.

CHAPTER lY.

The Future of San Francisco. — Tendency to leave the Interior for the Capital. — Climate favors the Citj. — Labor more Efficient here. — Education centers in it. — Its importance as a Center of Commerce. — The Connection with Asia. — A City of Expectations 44-48

CHAPTER Y.

Building Associations. — The Success of these Companies. — Laborers securing Homes. — The Prosperity of the Laboring Class. — Wages. — The Labor-Exchange. — Its Success. — The Mint. — Its Business and Small Wastage. — The Accountabilit3^ — Statistics. — Eight Hour-Law — Its Probable Failure. — Selling by Weight. — Want of Small Change. — The Manufactures of the City. — Splendid California Blankets. — Social Life. — Want of Unity. — Extravagance. — Troubles with Servants. — Evil-speaking. — Speculative Habits. — Temptations. — The Generosity of People. — A Droll Instance. — The Clergy and the Press . 49-73

CHAPTER YI.

The Public Schools. — Their Excellence. — The Object-system. — Girls' High School. — Faults. — Cosmopolitan School. — School-system superior to the New York. — Want of Teachers. — Salaries ... 74-80

CHAPTER YIL

The Big Trees. — Preparations for Trip to Yosemite. — Clothing needed.— Drive to Bear Yalley.— Dust.— Saddling.— The Mustangs.— The Wicked Mule.— Moonlight Ride.— Sugar Pines.— Clark's Ranch. — A Character. — Clothiers' Signs.— Forest- Master.— The Big Trees.— Mariposa Grove.— Their Number.— Causes of their Size. — Description. — Measurements. — Probable Age.— A Remarkable Flower. —The Calaveras Grove.— The Mother of the Forest.— Yegetation of the Foot-Hills . 81-94

CONTENTS. VU

CHAPTER YIII.

The Yosemite CaS'ON. — The Morning, — Start. — California Mustangs. — A Gaj Horse. — Digger Indians. — Our Party. — The Guides. — Description. — The First Glimpse. — El Capitan. — The Brothers. — Evening Viev/. — Its Origin. — The Descent. — Twilight in the Yallej.— The Inn 95-105

CHAPTER IX.

The Yosemite.— Mr. Ilutchings' Hotel.— An Original.— A Pretty English Lady. — The Atmosphere of the Yalley. — The Picture of Beauty. — Comparison with European Scenes. — The Yosemite Fall.— The Yoring Foss.— Cathedral Rock.— Bridal Yeil.— The Tenaya Fork. — Nevada Fall. — Excursions. — The Tuolumne Canon. — Mr. Hoffman's Account. — Mr. Hutchings' Claims. — The Departure. — The Stand- point of Silence. — Comparison of Routes 106-120

CHAPTER X.

'he Southern Mining Counties.— Journey from Mariposa to Calaveras. — Great Quartz Yein. — Tertiary Deposits. — Table Mountain. — A River in the Air. — Romance of Mining. — Funereal Aspect. — The Miner's Grave. — Receipts from Southern Counties. — Copper-Mining. — Mine at Copperopolis. — Miners' haw. — Its History and Features. — J. Ross Browne's Description of the Code. — Different Size of Claims — Uncertainty of Mining Titles. — The Mining Act of 18(56. — Its Favorable Effects on California. -Amendments advised. — Unity of Legislation needed . 121-136

CHAPTER XI.

The Digger Indians. — A Digger Camp. — Their Physical Features. — The Dying Squaw. — Touchitig Funeral Ceremonies. — Their Religious Belief. — ^Tradltion of Descent from the Wolf. — Their Degradation. — Customs. — The Diggers of Nevada County. — The Camp in Mariposa County. — Woven Baskets. — Grasshoppers for Food. — Wigwams. — A Branch of the Shoshonees. —

VIU CONTENTS.

Perhaps descended from the Aztecs. — The Causes of their Degradation. — Perhaps the lowest Tribe on Earth. — Volume of Brain. — Comparison with Peruvian Skull. — The Antediluvian Indian. — The Calaveras Skull. — Found in Pliocene Deposits, — Table Mountain Skull.— Darwinian Theory . . . . 137-152

CHAPTER XII.

The College of Californla.. — The Moral Teachers in California. —Their Value to the State.— The Rev. Dr. Bushnell — The College Grounds. — Its Plan. — The Proposed University. — The Agricultural College. — Mining School. — Endowment of the University. — Japanese Students ....... 153-lCO

CHAPTER XIII.

Gold Mining. — The Foot Hills. — Ruin from Gold Washing. — Hydraulic Washing. — Gold Run. — The Blue Lead. — Grass Valley. — The Eureka Mine. — Great Profits. — The Hayward Mine. — Production of Grass Valley. — More Economical Mining. — Saving of Wastage. — Quartz Mining. — Good Luck. — Cement Mining. — Its Annual Yield. — Placer Mining. — Successful Operations. — Its Produce. — Gold Mining Processes. — Crushing and Amalgamation. — Mining Tricks and Failures. — Salting a Mine. — A Bogus Mine. — Scientific Reports. — The General Profits of Mining Doubtful. — Gold and Silver Product for 1867. — Whole Product since 1848.— The Northern Mines 161-181

CHAPTER XIV.

Pacific Railroad. — A Marvel of Engineering-work. — Its Difficulties. — Official Statement in Regard to the Union Pacific Railroad. — ^Wells & Fargo's Express. — Virginia City. — Its Aspect. — Stock Speculation. — Material Tendencies. — Need of Humane Men. — The Silver Miners. — The Comstock Lode. — Mount Davidson. — The Savage Mine. — Uncertainty of Investments. — Marvelous Success of Empire Company. — Gould & Curry. — Hale & Norcross. — Increase of Value. — Whole Yield. — Treatment of Ores. --SilverMud 132 199

CONTENTS. IX

CHAPTER Xy.

Professional Robbers. — Non-resistance of Californians. — Politeness of Gentlemen of the Road. — An Adventure. — Lake Tahoe. — Robbing by Stages. — Indifference of a Fellow-traveler. — Wild Scene. — A Volley. — Coolness of Driver. — The Skirmish. — Need of Momited Police.— Shooting of three Robbers . . 200-208

CHAPTER XVI.

The Chinese of Caijfornia.— An excellent Working Population. — Their Submissiveuess. — Oppression. — Gradual Change of Public Opinion.— Their Importance.— Neatness of Habits, ~A Brutal Scene.— Mining-tax.— Inadmissibility of their Testimony. — The Old Struggle of Humanity renewed.— Judge Axtell.209-214

CHAPTER XVII.

The Chinese. — Visit to Chinese Merchants. — Courtesies. — Importation of Women.— Question of the Ballot. — Christianity.— Debate on the Exclusion of Chinese Testimony. — The Injustice of it.— Chinese Theatre and Temple .... 215-227

CHAPTER XVIII.

Large Farming. — A Country-house. — Hospitality. — Olives, Almonds, and Peaches. — Ornamental Trees. — A Wheat Farm. — Volunteer Crops. — Threshing. — Livermore Valley. — Gigantic Farming. — Figs, Flax, and Hops. — Merino-sheep. — Wheat Yield ofState.— Barley.— Indian Corn 228-242

CHAPTER XIX.

The Geysers. — ^Napa and Calistoga. — Voss' Station. — Manners to Ladies. — Reckless Driving. — The Grizzly Bears. — Hot Springs. — Devil's Canon. — Russian River Valley. — Napa Valley 243-252 1-

COJS^TENTS.

CHAPTER XX.

WlNE-GROWiXG — Need of Honest Criticism — Defects of Wines. — Want of Faithful Work. — Careless AVine-making. — Mistakes. — The Mission-grape. — Whole Science an Experiment . 253-259

CHAPTER XXI.

The Sonoma Vineyards — Production. — Mode of Planting — Pruning. — Cost and Yield per Acre. — Best Varieties — Process of Wine-making — The Buena Vista Society. — California Champagne. — Process ofMaking. — Percentage of Alcohol. — Comparison with Hastings Wine. — Vineyards on Sierras and Foot-Hills. —Yield and Profit— Raisins.— Catawba Wine . . 2G0-276

CHAPTER XXII.

Los Angeles — Characteristics. — Appearance — Beauty Exaggerated. — Bad Name — Improvements. — Mr. Wilson's Vineyard — Orange-groves . — Lemons. — Fruit-crop of Valley. — Figs — Limes. — Olives. — Almonds. — Castor-oil . — Wild Mustard . — Immense Ranches. — Policy of Government. — Vaqueros — Catching Bulls with Lasso. — Wine-making. — Angelica Port. — Vins de Liqueur — Jkluscatel. — Profits. — Causes of Inferiority of Wines. — Morals of Los Angeles. — Climate. — Rain-fall. — Anaheim Vineyards . . ..... 277-296

CHAPTER XXIII.

The Oil- Wells. — Petroleum Seas. — Santa Barbara. — The Agave Cactus. — Ground-Rodents. — Bees. — Wonderful Increase. — Cattle. — Sales of Land. — The Mammoth Grape-vine. — Silk-worm Growing — Question of Temperance. — Pomace Brandy. — Brandy-tax. — Santa Clara Valley Vineyards. — Quicksilver Mines.— Process of Extraction.— Total Yield . . 297-310

CHAPTER XXIV.

Agricultural Resources of California^ — Depreciatory Opinions. — Amazing Development. — ^Advantages for Production —

COIS^TENTS. XI

Large Yields — Different Crops. — Increasing Capital. — Exports. — Wheat and Grain Harvests. — Silk-growing. — M. Prevost — Advantages in California. — Statistics. — Silk-making. — Practical Instructions on Silk-growing. — Profits. — Silk-worms . 311-329

CHAPTER XXV.

The Climate of Pacific Coast.— Data Wanting for the Science. — Northern-Coast Temperature. — Summer on whole Coast. — Winter. — Comparative Tempeiatures of Europe and Africa Avith those of the Coast. — Analogies of Climate. — Equability of Temperature. — Varietv of Climate — Comparison between Europe and Pacific Coa.st. — Rain-full. — Dryness of Air. — Causes of Pacific Climates. — Water Cooler in Summer. — Interior Climates. — Influence of Arizona Desert ...... 330-344

CHAPTER XXVI.

California fok the Emigrant.— Division of Soil into Freeholds. — Development of Agriculture. — Society becoming Settled. — Who should not come. — Wages. — Female Labor best adapted for Small Wine-growers and Farmers. — Advantages . 345-350

CHAPTER XXVII.

Where to Settle in California.— Avoid River-bottoms.— Foot Hills doubtful. — Coast Valleys best. — Sonoma and Russian River. — San Joaquin — Bay-counties. — South of California. — Cheapness of Living. — Statement for Foot-Hills . 351-357

CHAPTER XXVIII.

The American Palestine.- Correspondences between Syria and California. — Productions. — Irrigation. — Job's Description of Scenery. — Land-slides. — Water-spouts. — The Miners' Work in Job. — The Droughts in both Countries. — Similarity of Seasons and of Fruits. — Wine-pressers. — Bible Scenes. — Dead Seas. — Geysers. — Mirage. — Flowers, Fruit, and Wine . . 358-366

XU CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXIX.

Effect of Climate on Race in California. — Indications of Race-changes. — Improvement of Type. — Handsome Physique. — Expanded Lungs. — Prolific Power. — Children Healthier. — Different Types. — Climate not All-powerful. — The Principle of Inheritance. — The Political Future. — A New Republic. — New Race.— The New West 367-373

THE IsTEW WEST;

OR,

CALIFORNIA IN 1867 AND '68,

Chapter I. The Trip To San Francisco

The voyage from New York to California by the Isthmus had so often been pictured to me as a disagreeable and hard trip, that I was not at all prepared for the pleasures and varieties of it. Some of my impressions, no doubt, are due to the sensations of one just recovered from a tedious fever, and changing a sick room for the glorious ocean, with its airs of health and vigor. But, as an old traveler, I can honestly say, I know of no sea-journey in any part of the world to compare with this in variety and enjoyment. Instead of the stormy North Atlantic, with its cold and fog, and the reeling state-rooms, smelling of oil, bilgewater and eructated dinners, and incessant gale and mist and chill, each day a bore and burden, we had here a blue sea with '^ the innumerable smile, ^^ the sparkle of spring sunlight hy day, and the trail of molten silver by night, airs genial but bracing, only a ripple on the water from New York to Aspinwall, broad airy saloons, the state-room on deck, where, in your berth, you looked out, with a sense of delicious repose, on the blue waves of the Caribbean ; meals with every variety and luxury, every thing clean and pleasant, and the long voyage varied by a railroad ride through a tropical conservatory and a change to a new and even larger steamer on the Pacific, with the best accommodations.

The California trip ought to be taken merely for pleasure, now that the traveler can enjoy the Pacific Mail Service.

We had an unusually pleasant company, yet characteristic of the coast we were about to visit. There was a Superintendent of the Indians, a rough, ready, warm-hearted man, with a great deal of information about his proteges; then several Mining Superintendents, men of much ability and energy; a young American gentleman, of a prominent New York family, and just graduated from Oxford, who was about to take charge of a mine in a remote mining to^Yla. ; young ladies, teachers, clergymen, mothers with families returning from a visit to the ^^East'^ ; but, best of all for us, was a most interesting scientific party, Mr. Clarence King and his corps, going out to survey the Continent on the fortieth parallel, under a Government commission. It was a truly American phenomenon : here was a young man of twenty-four who had already on the State geological survey of California, proved himself one of the most daring of living

STEAMER — COMPANY. 15

explorers, and now was appointed by the Government to head the most important American scientific survey of this generation, one which would probably extend over a period of from five to eight years and embrace the investigation of the flora and fauna, the geology, meteorology, determination of altitude, and geography of the whole belt of the Pacific Kailroad. A mao--

o

nificent opportunity for a man of science, and which any savant living would hold an honor to be offered. Mr. King is evidently as thoroughly trained in habit of mind as he is bold and heroic in action. The records of his exploits in obtaining the heights of unloiown peaks in the Sierras would read like a story of romance. Nothing has been done in the Alps to equal them in daring and difficulty; though the explorations of the brothers Schlagintweit, in the Himalayas, may have been as arduous. Mr. King and his associates have discovered and ascended nearly to the summit of what is probably the highest peak of the United States, Mt. Whitney (over 15,000 feet) ; he also climbed Mt. Tyndall (14,386 feet), and Mt. Hofi"man (10,872 feet). His stories of his years of Avild life on the plains and among the mountains showed what a field of manly training and scientific work there is now on the Pacific slope ioY our jeunesse dorcCj who have no taste for business or the professions. The civilized man comes down and gathers up the best qualities of the barbarian — quickness of hand and eye, firm nerve, contempt of cold, hunger, and privation, power to use his body to the best advantage, and the ability to front coolly danger and death — and with them he combines all which training and culture have given, to gain new conquests over Nature and to advance the frontiers of knowledge. It is a good thing to see such aims and works in an age of fraud, profit, and comfort.

One person on board particularly attracted our interest, Mr. J. C, a Mining Superintendent, and a self educated geologist and philosopher : he is a type of a class which undoubtedly exists in California, and I suppose nowhere else in the world, of men who have read little of books and seen little of the world, but who, in their lonely rambles and ^^prospecting" among the mountains, have studied Nature profoundly and philosophically, as very few men ever do.

Mr. C. is known to science, as having first detected the evidence of glacial action in the Sierras, and I have been assured by our first geologists, that his crude theories and investigations on the formation of mineral veins, the ancient changes of climate on the Pacific coast, the lines of upheaval, the sources of the lava overflow and the like, were worthy of the most profound consideration by the ablest investigators. He did not weary, sitting on deck under the tropical star-light, discoursing by the hour, to my wife and me, as we watched the glorious Southern Cross or the phosphorescent wake of molten silver be* hind the steamer, of the phosphorus which the ocean had taken up from the atmosphere, of the future moon which he saw in the Zodiacal light then rising with lengthened cone from the waters, and of the gradual passage of minerals from gases and water into

THE ISTHMUS. 17

mineral veins, and various problems connected therewith. He was naturally an ardent follower of Herbert Spencer 5 but it was curious that both he and the other geologists were catasfrojyhists in their theories of the Pacific coast, and none of them were sufficiently acquainted with the grand discovery of this age, the law of Natural Selection, and its bearing on all branches of scientific investigation.

We enjoyed each moment of the sail through the West Indies and the Caribbean — that sea of such delicious blue that Humboldt suggested the poetic explanation of its color being caused by the dust of coral-reefs mingling with its waters : the peculiar state of moisture and consequent refraction of the atmosphere is the more probable cause. Here the flying-fish began to skip over the waves, sometimes scores rising just before the bows, and sailing or leaping often a hundred yards or more.

For several days before reaching the Isthmus, the heat was intense, and almost every one on board was more or less out of order.

The journey over the Isthmus has been so often described that I wiU say little of it. It forms a most delightful break in the long voyage, and would be worth the trip to Panama, alone, to enjoy. The true equator of heat on the western Continent is on tliis Isthmus, and the traveler has the rare opportunity of seeing tropical jungles, palms, mangroves, and bananas, draped and bound together with lianas and the parasitic vines of hot climates, with the superb flowers and birds and insects of an equatorial forest, while riding in a railroad car, secure from malaria, and enjoying all the comforts of civilization. It is truly a jaunt through a conservatory.

The astonishing number of different palms* surprises one J the tree-ferns, the superb yellow or white flowers covering large forest trees, the marvelous growth of parasites, the callas and exquisite waterflowers in the pools where occasionally a large alligator rolls lazily in, the chattering of monkeys in one or two thickets, and the flight of brilliant paroquets through the forest — these are the features in one's memory of that scene of rich tropical luxuriance on the Panama Railroad.

As a work of engineering and difficulty it is most remarkable ; and one can well believe the current saying that every tie on the track has cost a human life. It is now, and always must be, a most important and lucrative transit. Nothing can fully compete with it, or withdraw large portions of its business. Its main traffic will always be with the Central and South American countries, as it is the nearest link of communication between eight millions of people and Europe. In 1860, its Californian freight business was less than one-fifteenth of its whole trade ; in 1867, it was about one-third. t It is computed that the value of the trade between the South and Central American countries and the Atlantic is over $60,000,000 per annum.

The new trade opening now between New York and

* Twenty- three varieties are classified on the Isthmus. + Dr. Otis. "Isthmus of Panama," &c.

PANAMA EAILROAD. 19

Japan and China, by the Pacific Mail steamers, may also throw a new and profitable business into its hands. Nine large steamship companies run now in connection with this road. The Pacific Mail, with twenty-five large steamships ; the Opposition Company, from New York and San Francisco ; the Compagnie-Generale Transatlantique, connecting with France and the West Indies j the West Indies and Pacific, running to Liverpool ; the West India and South America ; the Koyal Mail for the West Indies and Southampton, England; the New Zealand and Australian, running to the British Colonies in the Southern Pacific ; the British Pacific, for the west coast of South America ; and the steamships of the railroad connecting Panama with Central America.*

From their peculiar geographical position, the Company enjoy almost amonopoly — good judges doubting if a canal can ever be built which will compete with them. The consequence of their advantageous position is that their charges for passengers are enormous — twenty-five dollars gold — for a journey of forty-seven miles. And their service is not at all of the first class. There is no station at all under the rain or hot sun at Aspinwall, and quite a little walk must be taken from the steamer to the cars, which ought to be avoided. The station at Panama is but a poor one ; the cars are not well ventilated and have no su23ply of water, a necessity in that hot climate. Still the road is carefully managed, and has hardly ever met with an accident.

The great competition it will meet with in the

* Otis, "Isthmus," &c., p. 55.

future, in the Californian trade, will be from the Pacific Railroad. But this will only be in light and expensive freights, and first-class passenger traffic, and will not materially lessen its profits. How far the tea-trade between the Eastern coast and China is to come this way, is still a question. The transhipments are a great objection, and time is not, except with a few of the first cargoes, a very important element. The freight on tea, by the long sea route, from Hong Kong to New York, is about two cents a pound (or about the same as from New York to Chicago) ; by the Isthmus route it is about six cents and a half, with a gain of sixty days in time. The Company expect, however, to make the trip from Yokohama to New York, in 1869, in forty-five days in summer, and forty-eight in winter. The tea importers with whom I have spoken say that the advantage thus far over the long sea route is not of great account. They do not believe that tea will ever come over the Pacific road for the Eastern coast. Still no one can predict as to currents of commerce, and thus far tea is forwarded over the Isthmus and apparently pays to lay down in New York, in limited quantities, even at the present high rates of freight.

Panama is one of the most beautifully -placed towns in the world, and the views from the harbor are unsurpassed. We were taken aboard our steamer — an immense one, the Constitution — on a tug-boat, and had some hours to enjoy the various aspects of the Bay. The run up the coast was even more delightful than that on the other side. The accommodations

PACIFIC MAIL. 21

were luxurious, and we were often in sight of the grand volcanic chains of mountains along the coast of Central America and Mexico. The Pacific deserved its name, and hardly more than a ripple disturbed its blue surface all the way to San Francisco. A delicious land breeze blew every day from the coast, tempering the fierce heats ; and we lay in our berths, watching the blue waves and distant peaks, or reclined in easy chairs, having the very perfection of dolcc far niente life on sea-board. A little stay in the land-locked harbor of Acapulco varied the voyage, and off Cape St. Lucas the cool, invigorating breezes of the Northern Pacific began, causing white linens and muslins to be put away, and thick traveling-suits to appear again.

THE PACIFIC MAIL STEAMSHIP COMPANY.

I should not close my sketch of the trip to California without speaking of the great commercial Company which seems destined to open new currents of commerce to the United States, as the Dutch East India Company did to Holland, and the British to Great Britain. Here, on the coast, the great link of California with the world outside, and its future connection with newly-opened marts of commerce in the Orient, are through the Pacific Mail. This important commercial corporation, one of the most powerful and wealthy now existing in any country, are sailing a fleet of first-class steamers, such as many an old kingdom in Europe would be proud to possess. There are now some twenty-five large steamers floating their flag, with a combined capacity of 61,474 tons, connecting California with the Isthmus and New York ; while, on the other side, they are binding Japan and China to the Pacific coast, and, if the expectations of most Californians be well founded, are soon to turn a golden tide of commerce and travel from Asia to our far Western States.

The remarkable success of this Company, increasing year after year, through such long, difficult, and expensive voyages, is a marked contrast to the failure of the American marine on the Atlantic, where sharp competition has driven us from the field. For a student of organization it is well worth inquiring to what this brilliant success is due.

We believe it is especially owing to thorough organization, and then to what we may call honesty of work. The present President of the Company is reputed to know every officer, and the detail of every ship, in all their large fleet. His associates in the office are thoroughly acquainted, each with his own branch. The Board of Management has men in it of cautious, far-reaching, organizing brains, and who are determined that whatever public service the Company does, it shall be done thoroughly and in good faith. The consequence is, through all the extended administration of this Commercial Board, there is thoroughness and exactness. The work is done, as they promise it shall be done.

I have been exceedingly struck with this organization on this journey — a voyage altogether of some 5,300 miles through a hot climate, where a defect of

. ORGANIZATION. 23

management might bring about unpleasant results. Having traveled on most of the great Atlantic and European lines, I can truly saj that I have never witnessed an equal organization, the only fault being some small defects in forwarding baggage on the Isthmus.

Take the matter of coal alone, which, burned at the rate it is on a Cunarder, would cost the Company from s$2,000 to $2,500 a day, while, by invention and economy, it is reduced on some of their steamers to some twenty-four tons a day, or some $530, and on theCoiistitution to fifty tons, or some $ 1 , 1 00 per diem. On their steamers running between San Francisco and Japan, over five thousand miles, with one thousand seven hundred tons of dead weight, two thousand tons of merchandise, and one thousand five hundred passengers with baggage, and an average speed of two hundred and twenty sea knots per day, the coal consumption is only fortt/ tons per diem.