Three thousand miles through the Rocky mountains

Preface

In presenting these letters to the public in book form, I do not claim for them any measure of literary merit. They were written hastily, during* a journey of three thousand miles through the Rocky Mountains, and often in the midst of annoyances not favorable to epistolary perfection. The letters embrace two distinct series: one published in the New York '' Tribune," and the other published in the " Franklin Repository," which will account for the treatment of the same topics in different letters, although always substantially varied. I need hardly say that they were not written with the design to collect them in book form ; and now, when the wide-spread interest felt in the rapidlygrowing Great West seems to demand reliable information of the people, resources, progress, and destiny of the Rocky Mountain Territories, I find it impossible to revise the letters so as to conform them to the exactions of the critical without depriving them of much of their freshness, and, probably, some of their usefulness. Fully conscious of their many imperfections, I have consented to their publication only because I hope thereby to afford, in some humble degree, the long-delayed justice to the pioneers of the West, and, at the same time, give some little additional strength to the growing disposition to make the boundless mineral and agricultural wealth of the Territories available to benefit our common country. He who aids, in any measure, in advan-

4 PREFACE.

cing our people and our government to a just appreciation of the limitless riches which the Great West has so long offered to the nation, will not have lived without benefit to his people ; and it is to contribute my mite to that great end that these pages are presented to the public. I am fully sensible that, in another decade, scores of new records of the West will be written by abler pens than mine ; and each new advocate will have brighter fields to explore and more dazzling pictures to present, as the nation is made to grasp its matchless prize of wealth toward the setting sun. Before that brief time shall elapse, these crude pages will be forgotten, — unless by the few who preserve the erratic footprints of Western progress. Three through-lines of railroad will span the continent from the Atlantic to the Pacific, dotting their lines with new cities, new settlements, new churches, new schools, new communities, and new and mighty States ; and the freshly-inspired commerce of the ancient empire will be turned from its westward course toward the Great Republic in the East, and mingle with the newly-created millions of products of our new-born Commonwealths, as united they sweep across our continent to our commercial centres, and thence to the Old World. To hasten the events that will cause these letters to be forgotten, is now their mission ; and their faults may be freely condemned, if they shall render the humblest aid to enlarge the stature of our Western empire.

A. K. M.

Philadelphia, April, 1869.

CONTEITTS.

Letter I

From Chambersburg to Pittsburg. — Parting with Old Friends. — The Juniata Valley. — Crossing the Alleghanies. — The Progress of a Quarter of a Century. — A Day in Pittsburg. ... 17

LETTER IL

Pittsburg to Chicago. — Farewell to the Pennsylvania Mountains. — The Progress of the West.— Western Boys. — A Delightful Sleeping- Car. — The Conventionalities of Society on Sleeping-Cars. — An Early Breakfast. — A Locomotive-Race. — Excitement of the Passengers. — Westward Travel stopped by the Floods. . . 22

LETTER IIL

Chicago to Omaha. — Chicago a Fast City. — Getting News in the West. — The Chicago and Northwestern Railroad. — Its Hasty and Imperfect Construction. — The Missouri Flood. — Western Iowa. — "Square Meals." — Western Luxuries. — A Wreck. — Delay and Scarcity of Provisions. — Lunch-baskets. — A Foraging Party. — Indifferent Success. — "All Right again." — Another Stop at Honeybrook. — Another Hunt for Rations. — Dealing with a Western Dame for Milk and Bread. — Swindled by Biddy. — Council Blufis. — An Unpleasant Night in the Cars. — Trouble in crossing the Missouri River. — The People of Omaha, . . . . .27

LETTER IV.

Council Bluffs. — The Enterprise and Thrift of Omaha. — A Specimen Western City. — How Houses are built in a Day. — The Indian War. — General Augur's projected Campaign in the Hostile Country. — Position and Numbers of many of the Indian Tribes unknown. — Our Military Force inadequate for War. — Embarrassments of the Indian Problem. — The Inevitable Fate of the Red Man. — Sympathy of the Military with the Indians. — The Opinions of the Western People. . . . . . .37

LETTER V.

Starting from Omaha for the Plains. — The Union Pacific Railroad. — The Flood in the Platte Valley.— The Platte River.— Scarcity of Shrubbery and Trees. — The Adobe Shanties. — Antelopes and Buffa-

PAGE

loes. — The Indian War again. — It grows more serious. — General Hancock's Expedition South. — His Enemy raids North. — The Cost of killing Indians. — The Military embarrassed by the Civil Authorities. — Transfer of the Indians to the War Department a Necessity. — Off again Westward. . • . . • .45

LETTER VI.

From North Platte to Denver. — The Barrenness of the Platte Valley. — The "Lone Tree" and "Plum Creek" not visible. — Sources of the Platte River. — First Experiment in Overland Staging. — The First Indian Alarm. — Troops protecting a Whisky-Mill. — Alarm of the Station-Men. — A Cowardly Driver induced to change his Strategy. — A Canadian Frenchman uses a Revolver as a Persuader. — The First "Square Meal" on the Plains. — Fort Sedgwick. — Plenty of Troops, but ineffective. — Indians drive in the Cavalry. — The Stage goes on and passes in Safety. — Quicksand and Sand- Gnats.— A Burnt Station.— Supper with "Old Wicked."— The Dinner at Living Spring. — Arrival at Denver. . . .53

LETTER VIL

Efforts to understand the Indian Question. — The Western Demand for Chivington or Conner. — Western Contempt for the Regular Army. — Why Regulars do not fight Indians successfully. — Advantages of the Indians in a Summer Campaign. — The Monuments of Indian Warfare.— The Platte Valley Raid of 1865.— Horrible Cruelties of the Savages.— Hollen Godfrey, or "Old Wicked."— His Defense of his Ranch. — A Supper with him, and his Story of his Fight. — His Solution of the Indian Problem. — He regards Indians as Peaceable when they are Dead. — How Indians conduct Campaigns. — Their Signals and Spies. — There must be Peace. — It will be the Peace of Death to the Indian. — The Harney and Chivington Wars. 65

LETTER VIIL

A Prolific Subject for the Letter-writer. — An Afternoon at the Denver Races. — An Interesting Race. — The Value of a Sporting Watch discovered. — Denver and its People. — Its Experience with Desperadoes. — The Fate of the Steels. — The Attack upon Mr. Byers. — Mr. Hepworth Dixon's Blunders. — His Hero Bob Wilson. — The Order, Morality, and Advantages of Denver. — Character of Western Settlers. — What Sacrifices they make, and how poorly requited. — The Lark. — The Prairie-dog and Owl. — The Rattlesnake. — The Indian Troubles again. — The Overland Route closed by Savages East and West. — Indian Atrocities. — Western Volunteers the Remedy. . 77

LETTER IX,

Colorado and her Progress. — The Substantial Progress of Denver. — Its Depression and Prospects. — The Evils of Selfish Politicians. — Colorado a Gigantic Suicide in the Management of her Rich Mines. The Rage of Speculation, and consequent Bankruptcy. — The City of Abandoned Quartz-Mills. — Twenty Millions of Capital wasted in

PAGE

Feverish Speculation. — Legitimate Development retarded. — The Prospect of Restoration to Prosperous Business. — The Trip through the Mountains. — Their Matchless Grandeur. — The Storm-King in Conflict with the Snow-capped Peaks. . . . .88

LETTER X.

Indian-bound in Denver. — The Savages controlling the Overland Route East and West. — General Augur's Use of Troops. — Interesting Telegraphic Correspondence with him.— His "Upper Country" Campaign. — No Earnest Efi"ort to protect the Great Overland Routes. — A Pleasant Time with the Coloradans. — New Treatment of Strangers. — Why Dixon was fooled. — The Variety of Character in the West. — The Stage-Driver. — His Skill, Intelligence, and Courtesy. — Staging about Denver. — The "Square Meals" of the West. — High Prices of Labor. — House-Servants and Wives wanted. — Judge Eyster. — Colonel Wash. Lee. . . . .98

LETTER XL

Still Indian-bound in Colorado. — End of Hancock's Expedition. — Another Peace-talk to be had with the Savages. — The Indians raid the Overland Routes, while the Troops are ordered to hunt Indians where they are not to be found. — General Sherman's Policy. — Great Injustice to the West. — The Tide of Emigration arrested. — The Necessity of protecting One Route. — Contractors said to be encouraging War. — The Sad Failure of Mining-Companies in Colorado. — Their Hopeless Future. — Legitimate Enterprise the only Way to Success in the Mines. — The Variations of Colorado Climate.— The Crops. . . . . . . .107

LETTER XIL

A Journey to Colorado City. — Crossing the Divide. — Thunder- and Snow-Storms. — The Pines. — Bierstadt and the Colorado Rocks. — Storm-staid at " The Dirty Woman's Ranch." — A Western Cabin. — A Pleasant and Hospitable Hostess. — A Bright Fire and Excellent Supper. — The Guests chat away the Evening. — The " Garden of the Gods." — Grandeur of the Monuments. — Natural Pillars from Three to Five Hundred Feet High. — They appear like Ruins of Colossal Statuary. — The Mineral Springs. — Camp Creek Canon. — A Severe Snow-Storm. — Vain Attempt to procure Shelter from a Fugitive Mormoness. — Petrifactions on the Platte. . . 114

LETTER XIIL

Storm-bound in Denver. — An Old-fashioned Eastern Settled Rain. — The " Oldest Inhabitant'' cannot explain it. — Rapid Rise of the Mountain-Streams. — The Stage stopped by the Flood. — Peril of Passengers in crossing a Little Stream. — Prospects of Indian Raids. — No "Friendlies" visible but the Utes. — The First Settlers of Colorado. — Legislation to defeat Foreign Creditors. — Svimmary Execution of Part of Quantrell's Band. — Agricultural Productions of Colorado. 122

Contents

LETTER XIV.

Off from Denver. — The Party. — Our Arms. — Indians in Front and Rear. — Swollen Streams. — Crossing Boulder. — Virginia Dale. — The Savages uncomfortably Close. — Prospect of a Brush. — Passing the Black Hills. — Tactics of the Indians. — When they attack. — Arrival at Cooi)er's Creek. — The Stage-Horses stolen by the Indians. — The Policy of the Military. — An Escort of Three Troopers. — Fort Halleck.— Elk Mountain. — Running the Gauntlet of an Indian Camp. — The Driver and his Strategy. — A Hasty Drive. — North Platte. — The Indians on the War-Path ahead. — A Council of War. — A Forward Movement decided on. — A Bright but Deceptive Morning. — The First Station abandoned, and the Second Burning. — A Sober Dinner-Party at Pine Grove. — A Pitiless Snow-Storm. — The Station burning on the Summit of the Rocky Range. — Our Situation most critical. — ''Big Dick." — Fresh Tracks, and a Line of Battle necessary. — Dick's Disposal of the Lady. — The "Cusses" overtaken. — A Mutual Retreat. — Firing forbidden by Dick. — Arrival at Sulphur Spring. — The Horses captured there the same Day. — The Battle the Day before. — A Melancholy Stage-Drive. — Captain Wilson's Apology to General Sherman. — The Accommodations. — The Alarm. — Westward again. . . . . . . 127

LETTER XV.

Letter III

Chicago to Omaha. — Chicago a Fast City. — Getting News in the West. — The Chicago and Northwestern Kailroad. — Its Hasty and Imperfect Construction. — The Missouri Flood. — Western Iowa. — "Square Meals." — Western Luxuries. — A Wreck. — Delaj^ and Scarcity of Provisions. — Lunch-baskets. — A Foraging Party. — Inditferent Success. — "All Right again." — Another Stop at Honey brook. — Another Hunt for Rations. — Dealing with a Western Dame for Milk and Bread. — Swindled by Biddy. — Council Blufls. — An Unpleasant Night in the Cars. — Trouble in crossing the Missouri River. — The People of Omaha.

OxMAHA, May 6, 1867.

I HAD a pretty fair inside view of Chicago. I got there in the midst of the great riot on Thursday last, and left it the next morning in the midst of a grand fire. It is a fast place — fast in a fight, fast in a fire, fast in business, and fast generally. They do up a riot in the most improved style, and can make more noise at a fire twice over than Philadelphia. The laboring-men got up a flurry over the inauguration of the eight-hour law on the 1st instant, and had, as was appropriate and commendable, speeches from politicians and dignitaries, and processions with banners, etc. But they committed the fatal error of supposing that, because no man could compel them to work more than eight hours per day, they could compel every fellow-laborer to work just that number and no more. It was on this difference that they threw Chicago into disorder and did themselves the dishonor of attempting anarchy.

As I left Chicago, I left all news behind. By making

28 GETTING NEWS IN THE WEST.

several efforts along the railroad at the telegraph-stations, I managed to learn the result of the fire that was raging when I took the train; but as for keeping posted in the events of the day, beyond this single fact, I might as well have been in China ever since. As yet there are no papers here later than New York of the 29th ultimo, and Chicago of the 1st. There are daily papers published in most of the Western towns of any size ; but they afford but a meagre outline of the events of the world which we are used to enjoy so fully in the East with our breakfast or tea. I judge that as I go westward I shall learn to dispense pretty much with general news ; but the force of habit will make me break in upon far-western rules on this point as often as a newspaper or a telegraphic operator can be captured.

We had rather a variable time from Chicago to this place, and, upon the whole, quite a jolly trip. As variations are the spice of travel, I do not regret that we took the widest latitude in reaching and crossing the Missouri. At Chicago we were assured that the train would go through on time to the Missouri ; but, if the princes of old, against whom the world was cautioned, were less to be trusted than railroad managers out West, those who had to deal with the princes should not have needed the Divine injunctioii. From Chicago to this point it is four hundred and ninety-four miles by rail, and the line runs almost directly west, thus bringing trade and travel to the plains by the shortest route. Until last winter, the emigrant and sojourner for the mountains reached the Missouri at some point below this, and generally left Omaha out of their programme ; but the construction of the Union Pacific Railroad for two hundred and ninety miles west of this place, last fall, necessitated the hasty construction of the connecting link between this and the Mississippi at Fulton, so as

CHICAGO AND NORTHWESTERN RAILROAD. 29

to open an unbroken and direct railroad line from the Atlantic to Platte City, the point to which the Pacific Railroad is now run. The result was that the Chicago and Northwestern road was forced through last fall in the most imperfect manner. It was flung down on the prairie at the rate of two miles per day, and, while the bed remained frozen, it did tolerably well ; but, when the thaw and spring floods came, it imitated the Dutchman's milk in lying around loose generally. The flood of the Missouri this spring was more extensive than usual, requiring, it is said, the oldest inhabitant to remember its counterpart. It put a score or more miles of the Chicago and Northwestern road completely under Avater, and floated it about, with its occasional rude embankments and improvised culverts, as if it was but a plaything for the Western elements. As the tide of spring travel had set in for the plains — ten times greater than ever before — the management could not afford to wait to repair the road and have trade seek a southern line to St. Joseph or St. Louis. Accordingly, it was announced officially, a week ago, that the road was repaired, while miles of the track were still frolicking with the frogs and other occupants of the ponds and lakes of the prairies. Although still doubting, I ventured to try the road on Friday, just four days after it was pronounced to be thoroughly repaired, hoping that we might do rather better over it than to strike St. Joseph and have to stem the boisterous tide of the Missouri to this point. It is well that I had some doubts, — sufficient at least to distrust the regular railroad eating-stations to satisfy the demands of hunger. I had a bountiful lunch put up in Chicago, to guard against accidents in the way of "square meals;" and but for that precaution we must have had a protracted fast. All went well until we got to Dennison on Saturday morning, where we had our last regular meal

30 '^ SQUARE meals:'

during the journey, leaving us a period of thirty-six hours without any food but what we had with us and what we foraged from the scant larders of the pioneers. Be it remembered that Western Iowa — at least along the line of the railroad — has scores of miles at times without the sign of an inhabitant. Often during the tedious journey over the monotonous prairies, broken occasionally only by bleak sandhills, I looked in vain in every direction for a house or a field. It has no timber, is but poorly watered, and until now has presented no inducement to the husbandman to l)reak up its fertile soil. The transition from the luxurious tables of the East to the "square meals" of the West is, fortunately, gradual, and by the time the traveler reaches Omaha he is prepared for "hog and hominy," or whatever may be presented. The last cooking I found fit for a table was in Chicago. As we got out into Iowa, the Western style grew more and more original, until a break in the road brought us right into genuine pioneer living. Our last meal was at Dennison, Iowa, where we had the inevitable bacon and eggs, with hot, heavy, greasy biscuits, made apparently with flour, corn-meal, hog's fat, saleratus and water, and served up smoking hot. This is the favorite bread of the Far West. They usually have it at every meal — always hot, and their children begin on it before they have teeth to masticate it. But it seems that travelers in the West, however fastidious about their diet at home, are able to accommodate themselves to a diet here that would require the force of medical attendants to be doubled if used in the East. The active life, pure air, and the magic effect of change of scenery, habits, exercise, association, etc. fit most persons for living in Western style with comparative comfort.

AVhen within fifty miles of Council Bluffs, we were stopped by the wreck of a mixed burden and passenger

A WESTERN RAILROAD. 31

train, that was piled up on and all about the track. But two miserable shanties were in sight in a circle of twenty miles, and scarcely a shrub was visible. It was eight miles to the nearest station, and fifty miles to the nearest point from which the necessary machinery could be had to clear the wreck. It was about ten o'clock in the morning, and the cold, sharp wind was sweeping a hurricane over the prairie. The passengers got out, and, in spite of the repeated assurances of the conductor that we should "get right along shortly," it was clear to all that we were in for the most of the day. I walked along the track for half a mile, to take a look at a Western railroad, and I think it well that my inspection of the road did not occur until I was over most of it. I think I would have walked in preference to spending two nights on such a road. The bed Avas made by throwing up an embankment some three or six feet above the level of the prairie, of the soft loam dug up alongside of the track. Light, indifferent ties were then thrown upon it, the rails spiked down, and the space betw^een the ties was not even filled up with dirt. The hard freeze of the winter kept the road in fair order until recently ; but now the track seems as if laid on a bed of hard dough. In walking over it the ties Avould sink down in the earth from my weight, and a glance along the rails showed that it had settled irregularly, crooked, and disjointed, and in places seemed to have slid bodily to one side or the other. There was no help, however, then but to go over it, and as it was just as bad to go back as to go forward, and the shortest part of the road was ahead, I had no choice but to wait patiently and philosophically for the end of the journey.

In the mean time, the question of provisions became a serious one. Our party had a clever-sized lunch-basket filled ; but there were thirty others in the car, some of

32 A FORAGING PARTY.

them women and cliildren, who had no supplies. Misfortune soon breaks down all reserve, and the provisions on hand w^ere divided around as if we were all of one family. How quickly a lunch-basket in a hungry crowd makes everybody sociable ! First, all the children of the car will gather around it, in spite of the threats and frowns of tender mammas, and through them the way is easy to an intimate acquaintance with all. But our supplies were insufficent for the party, and we improvised a foraging corps. There were but two shanties within sight, and they were most unpromising for a successful foray in the provision line ; but they were the onl}^ possible points of attack, and we charged on them. One of them was entirely out. They had no eggs, no meat, no bread, no milk, no butter — in fact, nothing. The other had a few hard fat biscuits and some cold bacon, which were purchased at a price that would have made the Continental cashier blush. It was but little we got, but that little was somewhat like the widow's cruse — it went a great way and lasted well. I made a satisfactory dinner on half a biscuit and a small cut of bacon. After nearly ten hours' delay, the welcome sound of the locomotive whistle was heard, and "all right" was called by the conductor. As most of the road had been submerged between that point and the river, and part of it swept away and but temporarily repaired, I felt but little confidence that we could get through that night, — if we could get the train through at all. I amused myself, as we passed along, watching the soft sides of the road and calculating the probable loss of life and limbs that Avould follow a run-off. Our conductor and engineer seemed, however, to value their own lives, and the train proceeded with great caution — at no time running at the rate of over ten miles per hour, and generally not exceeding six. We were not interrupted in our course for some thirty miles,

ANOTHER HUNT FOR RATIONS. 33

when at the village of Honeybrook we came upon another Avreek, and had to stop for repah's. It was now getting dark, and, as we had dined very sparingly, and had no prospect whatever of supper, I renewed my foraging efforts. There were half a dozen shanties scattered about the place, including an Irish railroad boarding shanty, so I hoped to be able to gathtn' some eggs and potatoes — the only things they could cook without rendering them unfit to eat by dirt and grease. An ex-member of Congress went with me, while the others divided ofT in squads to raid upon the different houses. The Congressman had a child in his party, and milk was requisite to its comfort, and we drove the cows with us up to the door of the house we assailed. We went in to negotiate, and found the lady of the house, with a blooming daughter just doing up her hair in the last weekly paper, preparatory to frizzing it for Sunday. We asked in turn for eggs, meat, potatoes, bread, and milk, but they had none of most of the articles, and none to spare of any of them. '' But my child must have milk," said the grave national legislator. *' So must my calves," said the Western matron, with a dignity and independence that showed her to be master of the situation and determined to keep it. The Congressman became patronizing, and proposed that he would milk the cow, and that I would nurse her baby, if she would consent to sell enough to give the 3"oung Congressman his supper. Finally the lady came in ; but she would not trust either of us with the cows, and she milked a quart, which she gave for half a dollar. While the milking was going on, I negotiated with the daughter for a loaf of bread by a tempting offer ; and was glad to get it, notwithstanding the untidiness of the bakery, and the general air of filth about them. We next got two dozen of eggs, boiled by a man who had a sort of a boarding-car to feed the hands making repairs, at

4*

34 SWINDLED BY BIDDY.

the modest price of one dollar and a half; and the same generous gentleman made us a gallon of what he called tea, for another half a dollar. We called it tea, because he said it was tea, and we could not prove the contrary. We then tried the Irish Biddy of the shanty to get some potatoes roasted, and finally got her to agree to roast us two dozen for half a dollar, in advance. She put them in the stove — so much I saw of the potatoes ; but I do not know that they ever came out. There were cakes — the inevitable fat biscuit — in the oven, the fire was bad, the cook was mad, and I saw that if there was any chance for the train to get off within an hour or two, the potatoes would not be done until just after the train started. An hour afterward, the whistle sounded, and we left the potatoes and the half-dollar with Biddy. She had a supper to her liking, if we did go hungr}^ for want of them.

From the romantic village of Honeybrook, we got along slowly but safely to the river. We arrived within a mile of Council Bluffs a little before ten o'clock at night, and there our conductor, engineer, and everybody but the carboy left us to take care of ourselves. We were ticketed to Omaha, on the western side of the river ; but the only answer we could get from any one was that we had better stay where we were, as we could not get rooms in Council Bluffs, and would not cross the river before the next morning. We had all become patient by this time, and made as merry as we could over our helpless position. We concluded to stay where we were, and, as we had a sleeping-car, we went to bed on the track, like a family of genuine Micawbers, waiting for something to turn up. Morning came, but no one called to claim the car or to tell us where to go. The flats were wet and muddy from the late overflow, the omnibuses would not run between the cars and the town, so we disposed of the remnant of our last

TROUBLE IN CROSSING THE MISSOURI 35

evening's lunch, and patiently waited for somebody to come and put us and our baggage across the river. Once I thought I had cut the Gordian knot. I found the agent of the Transfer Company, and was about negotiating to get us across ; but the treatj^ was suddenly terminated by the information that the Transfer Company had not breakfasted, and that nothing could be done until after that important event. I kindly proposed to breakfast with the Transfer Company ; but the Transfer Company preferred to breakfast alone, so I did not breakfast at all. In the mean time, impatience was gaining supremacy in our severelj^-tested circle. The children were crying for want of proper food, and matrons and men were not by any means jocular, nor yet devoutly disposed, although it was Sunday. To add to the discomfort, the wind was sweeping across the river most furiously, and it was keenly cold. A muskrat enlivened the party by swimming up alongside of our car, and sailing around us as if he wanted to be sociable. Soon after bang went a rifle from the front car; but the muskrat sailed on leisurely as the bullet struck the water two rods ahead of him. The ice once broken, rifles gleamed from ever}^ car, and half a score of balls were sent after the now retreating rat ; but I was glad to notice that all were harmless. It was to me an unusual Sunday service ; but, under the circumstances, no one complained of the irreverent break of the monotony of starvation and vexatious delay.