Travels on the continent of Europe; viz., in England, Ireland, Scotland, France, Italy, Switzerland, Germany, and the Netherlands

Front matter

' Iiiwiii ii mtrn.

TRAVELS

CONTINENT OF EUROPE;

Chapter I

Incidents of the Voyage. — Packet Accommodations. — Letter on Sea-sickness. — Passage from England to France.— Boulogne.— Journey to Paris.— Amiens.— Incidents of Travel. — Arrival at Paris. — Lodgings. — Acquaintances formed . . . Page 9

Chapter II

Paru-.— Avenue de Neuilly.— Elysian Fields.— Place de Concorde.— Views.— Bloody Executions here. — Boulevards. — Faubourgs. — Seine. — Public Gardens. — Tuileries. — Louvre.— Palais Royal— Palais of the Luxembourg.— Churches.— Hospitals.— Place Vendome. — The Exchange 20

Chapter III

Paris. — Markets. — Fountains. — Cemeteries. — Catacombs.— Pere la Chaise. — Manufactories. — Gobelin Tapestry. — Porcelain. — St. Cloud. — Versailles. — Centralization of France. — Government of France. — Galleries of the Louvre. — State of the Fine Arts. — Mechanical Arts. — Philosophical Apparatus. — Surveillance of the Police. — Mode of Building 36

Chapter IV

Education in France. — University. — Literary Institutions and Schools. — Literary and Scientific Associations. — Libraries. — Museums, &c 53

Chapter V

State of Religion. — Letter to the Students of the Wesleyan University, containing illustrations of French Infidelity. — Protestantism in France. — Missionary Meeting. — Decline of Romanism,— Proper Ground for American Missions.— British Missions. — Proper Cause for establishing Missions in France. — Americans in Paris .... 68

Chapter VI

Departure for Lyons. — French Diligences. — Notice of several small Towns. — French Landscapes.— Comfortless Villages.— Female Degradation.— Hotels.— Cookery.— Chalons.— Arrival at Lyons.— Description of Lyons.— Departure for Mount Cenis and Turin.— Pont de Beauvoisin — Passage of Eschelles.— Grotto.— Picturesque Winter Scenery.— Aerial Exhibition.— Chamberry.— Appearance of the Villages and of the Inhabitants.— Mountain Cottages.— Donkeys.— Goitrous Swellings.— Natural Aqueduct.— Lans-le-bourg.— Passage of Mount Cenis.— Arrival at Turin ... 85

Chapter VII

Sketches of Italian History from the Fall of the Ancient Empire.— Conquest of the Ostrogoths, of the Lombards, and of the Franks.— Feudal System.— Growth and Independence of the Cities.— War of Investitures.— Papal Assumptions.— Origin and Decline 1

X CONTENTS.

of the Italian Republics.— Frederic Barbarossa.— League of Lombardy.— Wars with Frederic, and their Termination.— War of the Crusades.— Guelfs and Ghibelines.— Cruelties of the Age.— Spanish Supremacy in Sicily and Naples.— Various Wars. — Dawning and Progress of Literature.— Fall of the Mercantile Republics.— Reformation in Italy.— Its Progress.— Persecutions.— Final Extinction of the Reformation.— French Revolution.— Conquest of Italy.— Cisalpine Republic— Kingdom of Italy. — French Influence, and its Effects. — Dethronement of Napoleon, and consequent Changes in Italy. — Present Political Divisions Page 102

Chapter VIII

Further Particulars of our Entrance into Italy. — Roman Catholic Superstitions. — Turin. — King of Sardinia. — River Po. — Route to Genoa.— Asti. — Allesandria. — Marengo. — Passage of the Apennines. — First View of the Mediterranean. — Reflections on its Historic Associations, and the present Character of the Population on its Shores. — Arrival at Genoa. — Its Location.— Military Defences. — Harbour. — Palaces. — Churches. — History. — Departure from Genoa. — Gardens and Orchards. — Mountain Scenes. — Grottoes. — Splendid Views. — Sestri. — Passage of the Bracco. — Splendid Exhibition. — Modena. — Vexations of Travellers from Health-officers and from Passports. — Lucca. — Washwomen . 131

Chapter IX

Arrival at Florence. — Protestant Worship. — Description of Florence. — Royal Gallery. — Venus de Medicis, &c— Reflections on Statuary. — Pitti Palace.— Gardens. — Picture Galleries. — Museum. — Academy of Fine Arts. — Manufacture of Pietra Dura. — Chapel of the Medici. — Cathedral. — Church of the Holy Cross, and its Monuments. — Education in Tuscany. — Infant Schools. — Advantage of Travellers to Italy. — Grand Duke. — His Superstition and uncontrolled Power 149

Chapter X

Departure from Florence. — Route to Pisa. — Sickness of Mrs. F. — Arrival at Pisa. — Separation of our Company.— My own Sickness.— M. Pevarada— Pisa.— Foreign Expenditures in Italy.— Beggars.— River and Lung' Arno. — Cathedral. — Baptistry. — Leaning Tower.— Mode of building their Houses.— Neighbourhood of Pisa.— Farm of the Grand Duke.— Camels.— University.— Professor Foggi— Preparatory Schools.— Learned Professions.— Romanism the Religion of the Natural Heart.— The Carnival . . 163

* CHAPTER XI.

Departure from Pisa.— Leghorn.— Its Business.— General Characteristics.— Steamboats.— Passage to Civita Vecchia— Arrival, and Incidents of Travel.— Route to Rome. — Entrance into Rome.— Departure for Naples.— Appian Way.— Pontine Marshes.— The "Three Taverns." — Fondi and Itri. — Incidents with Beggars. — Catholic Priest. — Cenotaph of Cicero.— Mora.— Three Ancient Republics.— Reflections on their Downfall.— Capua.— Vegetation.— Arrival at Naples . 177

Chapter XII

Situation of Naples.— Views from the Royal Observatory.— Reflections.— Population ©t Naples.— Lazaroni— Beggars.— Army.— Public Garden.— Architecture.— Church of St. Martin— Cathedral— Blood of St. Januarius.— Chapel of St. Severus, and its veiled Statuary.— Royal Observatory.— Reflections.— Cemetery.— Funeral.— Literature and the Arts.— Government.— Caprice and Fears of the Government.— History.— Museum. — Different Halls and Galleries of Statuary and Bronzes.— Antiques from Pompeii.— Ancient Manuscripts and Paintings 185

Chapter XIII

Environs of Naples. — Route to Paestum. — Towns and Scenery on the Way. — Situation of Paestum. — Ancient Temples. — Description of them. — Associations. — Pompeii. — General Description of Pompeii. — Streets, Temples, Houses, Shops. — Tombs. — Villa of Diomedes. — Torre del Greco. — Herculaneum. — Virgil's Tomb. — Grotto of Posolipo. — Pozzuoli. — Donkey Riding. — Solfatara.— Lake d'Agnano. — Grotto of the Dog. — Monte Nuovo.— Lake Avernus.— Grotto of the Sibyl. — Fables of the Sibyls. — Cimmerian Forests. — Baths of Nero. — Baiae. — Ruins of Temples. — Piscini Mirabile. — Acherusia Palus. — Cuma. — Arco Felice. — Excursion to Vesuvius. — Mode of Ascent and General Description. — Cone. — View from the Summit. — Appearance of the Crater. — Inner Crater. — Descent to it.— Danger incurred in returning.— Former Characteristics of the Mountain. — Descent from the Mountain. — Preparations for leaving Naples. — Travelling in Italy .— Caserta Page 205

Chapter XIV

Arrival at Rome. — Hotel Spilman. — Hired Lodgings.— Safety in Rome. — Letter to the Editors of the Methodist Magazine. — Passion Week. — Palm Sunday. — General of the Franciscans. — Pope. — Distribution of the Palms. — Procession. — Tenebrae. — Maundy Thursday.— High Mass. — Procession of the Host.— Benediction. — Washing Feet. — Dining of the Apostles.— Good Friday. — Offerings. — " Three Hours of Agony." — Saturday before Easter. — Baptism. — Ordination. — Easter Sunday. — Procession. — Tiara and other Robes of the Pope. — High Mass by the Pope. — Roman Courtesy. — The Holy Relics.— Second Benediction.— The Flagellation.— The Pilgrims.— Washing Feet.— Supper.— Don Miguel. — Female Apartment. — Taking the White Veil. — Conversion to Romanism of an English Lady.— Church of the Trinity.— Italian Music. — Illumination and Fireworks. — Religious Processions. — Holy Staircase.— Second Letter to the Editors of the Methodist Magazine. — Tendencies of Romanism to Idolatry. — Rev. Mr. Dewey. — Romanism incompatible with Freedom. — Tends to Encourage Vice. — Impoverishes a Community 228

Chapter XV

Roman Antiquities. — The Forum. — Remains of Temples. — Triumphal Arches. — Columns. — Colosseum.— Palatine Hill. — Capitoline Hill. — Velabrum. — Antiquities near the Capitol. — Mamertine Prison. — Relative Position of the Seven Hills. — Trajan's Forum and Pillar.— Pantheon. — Roman Baths. — Ancient Tombs. — Catacombs. — Aqueducts. —Columns and Obelisks . 291

Chapter XVI

Vatican Palace. — Different Galleries of Statuary. — Churches. — The Basilicse. — St. Peter's.— St. John Lateran.— St. Maria Maggiore and other Churches.— Introduction to the Pope.— Singular instance of Servants.— Palaces of Rome.— Picture Galleries and Frescoes.. — Halls of Raphael.— Mosaics. — Professions. — Libraries. — Propaganda. — Jews.— Dimensions of the City.— Bridges.— A Modern Hill.— Pincian Hill.— Piazza del Popolo.— Borghese Villa.— Letter to G. P. Disosway, Esq.— Excursions to Tivoli and Adrian's Villa.— Tartarean Lake.— Solfatara.— Cascades and Cataracts of the Anio.— Different Views.— Villa of Horace.— Grotto of the Sibyl.— Grotto of Neptune. —Temples of Neptune and Vesta.— Adrian's Villa.— Ancient Edifices.— Theatres.— Barracks.— Palace.— Historic Reminiscences.— Solitude of the Place.— Departure from Rome . . . „ 312

Chapter XVII

Different Routes to Florence.— Embarrassments.— Nero's Tomb.— Campania, Shepherds, and other Incidents.— Falls of Terni.— Different Views.— Mineralogical Formations. — Donkey Driving.— Spoleto.— Perugino.— Lake Thrasymene— A Frenchman and his Daughter. — Battle-ground of Hannibal and Flaminius. — View of Florence. — Revisit of the Galleries.— Circumstances of our Departure from Florence.— A Consumptive.— Incidents of Travel over the Apennines.— Bologna.— Arcades.— St. Mary of St. Luke. —Leaning Towers.— Bologna School of Painting.— Picture Galleries.— University, &c. — Ferrara. — Ariosto. — Library. — Tasso's Prison. — Discontent of the Citizens. — Journey to Padua.— Different Objects on the Route.— Euganean Hills.— House and Tomb of Petrarch.— Padua.— Church and Fete of St. Anthony.— University.— Hail-storm.— Arrival at Venice.— Festival of St. Mark.— General Remarks on Venice.— Canals and Bridges.— Architecture.— Public Squares.— Piazza of St. Mark.— Church of St. Mark.— Bronze Horses.— Palace of the Doges.— Paintings.— Reflections on the most appropriate Field for the Arts.— Venetian School of Painting.— Halls of the Secret Tribunals.— Progress of Venice from Democracy to Tyranny.— Bridge of Sighs.— Dungeons.— Imperial Palace.— Tower of St. Luke.— Tower of the Clock.— Mechanical Procession.— Legacy to the Pigeons.— Churches.— Masses for the Dead.— Canova's Monument.— Religious Character of the Venetians.— Decline of Venice.— Its Causes. — Farewell to Venice. — Incidents of Travel. — Vineenza.— Verona. — Tomb of Juliet.— Tombs of the Scaligeri.— Ancient Amphitheatre.— Mountain of Fishes.— Lake Garda.— Brescia.— Face of the Country.— Incident.— Reflections on Italian Character. —Arrival at Milan . Page 344

Chapter XVIII

Milan.— Improved by Napoleon.— General Description.— Triumphal Arch.— Cathedral. —Feast of Pentecost.— The Ambrosian Church.— Business of Milan.— Education.— Government, Manufactures, and Commerce.— Canals.— Climate.— Palace of the Brera and its Various Institutions.— Libraries.— Last Supper of Leonardo da Vinci.— Church of St. Ambrose. — St. Carlo Borromeo. — Departure from Milan. — Como. — Lake. — Villa of Queen Caroline.— Passage up the Lake and Description of the Scenery.— Lake Maggiore.— Borromean Isles.— Isola Bella.— Bovena.— Reflections on leaving Italy 384

Chapter XIX

Fellow-travellers.— Bad Road.— Granite.— Dorreo d'Ossola.— Character of the Route.— Grottoes.— Entrance to Switzerland.— Cascades.— Commingling of Winter and Summer.— Village of Simplon.— Obstructions from Snow.— Descent of the Mountain.— Brigg.— Swiss Mountain Cottages.— Cascade.— Sion— Martigny.— Mountain Diseases.— Swiss Love of Home.— Cascade.— Lake Leman— Vevay — Scenery.— Lausanne.— Ny on. —Rev. J. William Fletcher.— Associations of Home.— Arrival at Geneva .398

Chapter XX

Geneva.— Strictness of the Police.— Reason for this.— Intolerance of the Sardinian Government.— Evangelical Society.— Decline and Revival of the Evangelical Cause- Promising Characteristics of that Cause.— Some unpromising Features.— General Description of Geneva.— Schools and Learned Men.— Cathedral.— Sketches of History and Government.— Society and Scenery . . 409 xm

Chapter XXI

Departure from Geneva.— Incidents and Scenery— Cottages.— Costumes— Friburg.— Schools.— Site.— Suspension Bridge. — Linden-tree.— Canton of Berne.— City of Berne.— General Description.— Curious Clock.— Institutions.— Hofwyl.— Notice of Hofwyl School.— Mr. Fellenburg's Opinion of Religious Instruction.— Interspersed Reflections.— Agriculture of Hofwyl.— Mr. Fellenburg's Family.— Soleure.— Passage of the Jura.— Bale.— Division of the Canton.— Cause, and Reflections upon it.— Missionary Institution.— Early Christian Movements in Bale.— College.— Library, &c. — Cathedral.— Manufactures and Trade.— Specimen of the Ludicrous.— Environs.— Departure from Switzerland Page 420

Chapter XXII

Duchy of Baden.— Country.— Peasantry.— Friburg Cathedral.— Stork's Nest.— Strasbourg.— Cathedral.— Telegraph, &c— Town of Baden.— German Baths.— Old Castle.— Secret Tribunal.— Older Castle.— Carlsruhe— Fair.— Coarse Females.— Scwhitzingue. — Heidelberg. — University. — Instruction and Discipline of German Universities. —Castle.— Route to Darmstadt.— Sketch of the History of Baden.— Smokers.— Darmstadt.— Town and Duchy 439

Chapter XXIII

Frankfort. — Jews. — Edifices. — Fine Arts. — Schools.— General Character of German Schools. — English on the Continent. — Trouble with a Coachman. — Mayence. — Fortifications. — Hanseatic League. — Invention of Printing. — Troubadours. — Passage of the Rhine. — Scenery. — Associations of Romance. — " Seven Mountains." — King's Stool.-— Partition of the Rhenish States by the Allies. — Frederic William III. — His Religion. — Religion of the State. — Prussian School-system. — Libraries. — Universities. — Perfidy of the King 454

Chapter XXIV

Passage of the Rhine renewed.— Coblenlz.— Bonn.— Cologne.— Cathedral.— P. P. Rubens. — Cologne Water. — German Princess, — Advantages of Female Company to the Traveller. — Hydraulic Works. — Nimeguen. — Loevestein. — Dort. — Rotterdam. — Mad Dog.— Cleanliness. — Canals and Hydraulics.— Churches.— Statue of Erasmus. — Commerce. — Belgic Question. — Excursion to the Hague. — Scenery of Holland. — Hague. —Route to Leyden. — Notice of the University and Town. — Passage to London. — Business of the Thames. — Parting with the Princess. — Reflections. — Feelings on landing in London 473

Chapter XXV

Resumption of our Journal at Liverpool. — Letter to G. P. Disosway, Esq. — Introductory Remarks.— Liverpool.— Docks.— Public Buildings.— Second Letter to G. P. Disosway, Esq. — Chester. — Roman Bath. — " Rows." — Walls. — Bishop. — Cathedral. — Castle. — Highland Regiment.— Excursion to Eaton Hall— Scenery.— Palace.— Gardens, &c. Railroad to Manchester. — Rains. — Potteries. — Nocturnal Exhibition.— Reflections. — Coventry.— Dunstable.— English Manufactures Sectional.— St. Albans.— Arrival in London .................. 488

Chapter XXVI

London.— Its early History.— Plague.— Great Fire.— Crowded Population.— Alterations.— Size and Population.— Influences of these,— Places of Public Worship.— In-

XIV CONTENTS.

temperance.— Temperance Movements.— London Police.— Literary Institutions.— Fine Arts. — Other Institutions. — British Museum. — Colosseum. — Zoological Gardens.— Regent's Park.— Hyde Park.— Green Park.— James's Park.— London Diet.— St. Paul's.— Westminster Abbey.— Chapels.— City Road Chapel.— Dr. Clarke's Tomb.— Tower.— Bridges.— Tunnel.— Docks Page 509

Chapter XXVII

Parliament.— Principal Speakers.— Present Administration.— Reform.— O' Connell'9 Course.— Reflections on Popular Agitations.— Morbid Excitability of the English.— Manner of conducting Public Assemblies. — Public Meeting of the " Protestant Association."— An Imposition.— Question of Church and State.— Agitation and Difficulties respecting it. — Objectionable Features of the English Church. — Danger of sudden Changes. — Impropriety of Foreign Interference. — Modes of Business in the British Parliament. — Eloquence. — Influence of Irreligion in the Ranks of the Liberals. — Colonial Policy 534

Chapter XXVIII

Excursion to Greenwich. — Royal Observatory. — Royal Hospital and Schools. — Woolwich. — Dover. — Situation.— Chalk-cliffs. — Barracks and Fortifications. — Castle. — Shakspeare's Cliff. — English Watering-places. — High Charges. — Characteristics. — Value of a Title. — Excursion to Bedfordshire. — Charity School of Bedford. — John Bunyan's Birthplace, &c. — John Howard's Birthplace. — Lord John Russel's Election to Parliament. — Missionary Meeting. — Missionary Tea.— Cambridge. — College Edifices. — King's College Chapel.— Founding of the Colleges. — Sketch of the Constitution and Regulations of Cambridge University. — Reflections. — Excursion to Windsor Castle. — Eton. — Fagging. — Windsor Castle. — Apartments. — Plate. — St. George's Chapel. — Excursion to Birmingham. — Oxford. — Mr. Hill. — Episcopal Succession. — Sketches of the University. — Libraries. — Museum. — Marbles. — Royal Honorary Degrees. — Costumes. — Warwick Castle. — Stagecoach Conversation .... 553

Chapter XXIX

Wesleyan Conference.— Methodist Connexion in England.— Schism of Dr. Warren.— Chancery Decision.— Mr. Wesley's Poll-deed.— Kilhamites.— Finances of the Wesleyan Conference. — Order of building Chapels.— Missionary Operations. — Stationing of the Preachers.— Opening of Conference.— Dr. Bunting.— Respect for Seniority and Office. — Mr. Sturge's Circular.— Views of the Conference respecting the Methodist Episcopal Church. — Ordination. — Public Breakfast. — Ministerial Character. — Theological Institution.— Manner of Preaching 582

Chapter XXX

Birmingham.— Manufactures, &c— Coal and Iron Mines.— Character of the Operatives.— Bishop Asbury's Birthplace.— Anecdotes of Bishop Asbury.— Return to London. — Irish Reapers.— Agricultural Products.— Landscapes.— Route to Bristol.— English Stagecoach. — Dinner. — Bath. — Lodgings at Bristol. — " British Association." — Situation and General Description of Bristol. — Celebrated Men. — Wesleys in Bristol. — Kingswood. — Voyage to Dublin . 603

Chapter XXXI

Approach to Dublin— Incidents of Landing.— General View of the Town.— St. Patrick's Cathedral.— Dean Swift.— Trinity College.— General Education.— Hatred of the English.— Difficulties in the Relations of the English Government to Ireland— Remedies.— Methodists in Ireland.— Cars.— Departure from Dublin.— Drogheda.— Beggars.— Af-

CONTENTS. XV

fecting Cases. — Wretchedness of the Peasantry. — Bogs. — Arrival at Belfast. — Route to Coleraine. — Fellow-traveller. — Coleraine. — Dunluce Castle. — Giant's Causeway. — Neighbouring Headlands.— Port Coon Cave.— Return to Belfast.— Balleymena Market. — Loch Neagh. — Notice of Belfast, &c. — Presbyterian Church. — Passage to Scotland.— Ailsa Craig Page 620

Chapter XXXII

Greenock.— Port Glasgow.— Clyde.— Glasgow.— Its Growth and Business.— Edifices. — Morals. — Christian Charities. — Cathedral. — Cemetery. — University. — Other Institutions. — Sir William Hooker and the Botanical Garden. — Tour to the Highlands. — Dumbarton.-^Leven Water. — Loch Lomond.— Islands. — Effects of Highland Scenery.— Ben Lomond.— Rob Roy.— Mountain Pass to Loch Ketturin.— Rob Roy's Fowlingpiece. — Loch Ketturin. — Boatmen. — Trosacks. — Hotel. — Route down the Vennachar.— Stirling.— Castle.— Route to Edinburgh.— Entrance into the City.— North Loch. — Sabbath in Edinburgh. — Scottish Courtesy. — University. — Botanic Garden. — Calton Hill. — Lord Melville's Monument. — Castle.— Holy Rood House. — Old and New Town. — Incorporated Trades. — Magistracy.— Route to England. — Newcastle-upon- Tyne. — Durham. — Races. — English Propensity. — York. — Cathedral. — Yorkshire. — Route to Leeds. — Accident. — Lodgings at Roundhey. — Leeds. — Its Business, (fee- Factory Children. — Yorkshire Dialect. — Ignorance of America. — Yorkshire Methodism. — Dissenters. — Quakers. — Woodhouse Grove School. — Kirkstall Abbey. — Route to Manchester. — Advertisements. — Musical Festival. — Cotton Manufacture. — Stockport.— Chimneys. — Derbyshire Peak. — Castleton. — Caverns. — Sheffield. — Mr. Montgomery. — Manufactures of Sheffield.— Rodgers's Showroom. — Grinders. — State of Religion. — Return to Manchester. — Missionary Meetings. — Departure for Liverpool.— Chapels. — Church Service. — Mr. M'Neal.^-Reflections on English Character. — Farewell to England.— Passage Home.— Conclusion 643

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Isola Bella Frontispiece.

View of Naples 204

St. Peter's . 316

St. Mark's 372

Suspension Bridge 422

Tunnel 534

King's College Chapel 563

Edinburgh 662 tft

JOURNAL, &c.

Chapter I

Letter to the Editors of the Christian Advocate and Journal.

Liverpool, Oct. 28, 1835.

Reverend and dear Sirs,

I have at length arrived in Liverpool, after a short passage of about eighteen days. And I hasten, according to promise, to give you, and, through you, my friends generally, the information that, through Divine mercy, we are all in health and good spirits.

Before giving you any account of the events of the passage, I beg the privilege of acknowledging my obligations to the kind attentions of my friends in your city, who manifested to the last such kind offices of friendship as will not be easily erased from my memory. One looks back with feelings which none but those who have them can fully comprehend, to the expressions and acts of friendship and sympathy which they have received from those they love and honour in their own country, when in the land of strangers they find themselves alone in the midst of multitudes. Such is our present situation. As we approached the pier of Prince's Dock, many of our passengers looked out, and hailed some acquaintance or friend, some brother or sister, who stood ready to clasp them by the hand, and welcome them on shore. It was then that I felt the contrast ; the thought came over me like the chill of winter, not one stands ready to welcome me ! We left a land of friends, who attended us to the last — to the dock — to the steamboat — to the ship — to the Hook ; nor did they leave us till the last opportunity of returning ; but here all are strangers. But enough of this. We shall doubtless find or make friends here — and, if not, we may maintain an intercourse with those we have

B

10 THE VOYAGE.

left, second only in its pleasures to the delights of a personal interview.

I had heard much of the accommodations of the New- York and Liverpool line of packet ships ; but, after all, my expectations did not come up to the reality. Everything was arranged in the best order. The fixtures about the ship are just such as they should be. In fact, almost everything is & fixture. Your bed, your table, your sofa, is made part and parcel of the ship itself, so that the rocking and pitching of the vessel cannot disturb your accommodations. The dining-table is not only firmly attached to the floor of the cabin, but the leaf is divided into three parallel compartments, with elevated mouldings on the outer edges and between, so as to form three grooves — one for the public or common dishes in the centre, and the two outer ones for the plates of the guests. Thus prepared, with an immoveable support for the back and another for the feet, you may bid defiance to the rocking of the ship and eat on — provided, however, the motion does not rock you out of your appetite, which was, in fact, my case most of the passage, as you may learn by my letter to Dr. R .

As to food, we had an abundance, and of a great variety. We had on board a cow for furnishing the ship with milk ; and for fresh provisions we had an ample stock of live geese, turkeys, ducks, hens, pigs, and sheep, besides the dressed meats brought from New-York. These, with puddings, pastry, vegetables, and fruits, were furnished us in suitable variety and appropriate arrangement four times each day.

The Roscoe is a fine ship, and the commander, Captain Delano, is not only an excellent commander and navigator, but he is a gentleman of intelligence and politeness. He gave universal satisfaction ,j the passengers, and is certainly entitled to our warmest acknowledgments. The subordinate officers were also fine men, the crew excellent, the servants remarkably active and attentive to our every want.

One of the causes of the quick passages of the New-York packet ships undoubtedly is the unwearied and incessant attention that is paid to the management of the ship. Every veering and varying breeze is not only noticed when it comes, but, it would seem, anticipated also, so that nothing is lost. The whole of nature's agency, as we may say, is used up to help us on our course,

SCENERY OF THE OCEAN. 11

We had a pleasant company of twenty-five in the cabin, besides about forty in the steerage. It will hardly be of sufficient interest to you or your readers to give either a detailed account of the passengers or of the events of the voyage. What is there in an ordinary sea voyage worth journalizing and publishing ? We may indeed rhapsodize upon the fathomless depths and the shoreless expanse of old ocean; we may talk of its coral reefs and pearly beds, which we cannot see ; we may descant upon the rising and setting sun, ascending and descending like a globe of fire from and into the mighty waters ; upon the phosphorescent glow of the evening ripple, and of the white crest of the heaving billow — all this, if it had not been worked up into poetry and prose a thousand and a thousand times, might be very well ; but what ordinary genius can give a new form or additional interest to these oft -repeated descriptions ? In viewing these scenes, the contemplative mind finds much to admire, the devout mind much to excite his veneration for the God of nature, and the imaginative mind much to enkindle the fires of poetry. The whole, however, soon becomes monotonous, and a desire for a change seems to absorb every other. Whether it will be construed into a deficiency of imagination, a want of taste, or a lack of the spirit of devotion on the part of our company, I cannot say; but sure I am, that nothing we met with during the voyage seemed to diffuse such universal pleasure over all minds as the sight of the light on Cape Clear, which we made in about fifteen days : and best of all was the moment when we set foot on the pier of Prince's Dock in Liverpool, near the close of our eighteenth day from the Battery in New- York. So much for our voyage ; and let this suffice — with the exception that, for variety's sake, and that those who are longing for the opportunity of careering sublimely and poetically upon the mighty ocean may know something of the pleasures of such a voyage, I have attempted a sketch of sea-sickness, which possibly may meet you through another channel.

The letter alluded to was to an eminent gentleman of the medical profession in New-York, and is here inserted.

My dear Doctor, You will learn from other sources of my safe arrival, and other circumstances connected therewith, particularly that we were

12 THE VOYAGE.

highly pleased with the captain, the ship, the passengers, and, in short, that we had nothing to complain of except that most unpitied, and, I may almost say, that most distressing of all diseases, the sea-sickness. This lugubrious topic I have reserved for you, partly to retaliate upon the faculty for not providing a remedy, and partly because you will better judge than one of the uninitiated in the mysteries of physiology whether or not what I may say on the subject will be of any consequence to the untravelling public — if there be any such in these stirring days. I say of any consequence, by which I certainly do not mean for the enjoyment of the reader, but for his information, and for the enlargement of his sphere of sympathy, and possibly for the gratification of his curiosity. If I supposed that any sketch of this disease would produce even the premonitory symptoms upon my readers, I could not find it in my heart to inflict the misery upon one of the sons of Adam — except on the physicians ; nor even upon them, except in hope that it would put them upon extra exertions to find a cure. On board the steamboat which conveyed us to the Hook, you suggested and sanctioned the theory, which I believe has gained extensive authority with the faculty, and certainly seems very plausible, and accords well with many of the symptoms, that the disease is the inversion of the peristaltic motion of the digestive muscles through the stomach and viscera. Alas ! what a .picture of this distressing disorder ! Only conceive the unpleasant sensation which this unnatural action must produce ! — the loathing, the shrinking back, and the spasmodic action of all the digestive organs ! And when this system of internal " agitation" is begun, it is increased by its own action. The spasm increases the irritation, and the irritation increases the susceptibility to spasmodic action, until the coats of the stomach and all the abdominal viscera are convulsed. The sensations produced, however, are not those of pain, as we commonly use the term, but of loathing — of sickness — of deathlike sickness, until nature is wearied, and the poor sufferer feels that life itself is a burden. He is told he must not give up to it — he must keep about, take the air, and drive it off. At first he thinks he will — he believes he can — and, perhaps, after the first complete action of his nausea, feels relieved, and imagines that he has conquered ; but another surge comes on, and rolls him and his vessel a few feet upward ; and again she sinks, and he

SEA-SICKNESS. 13

with her — but not all of him ; his body goes down with the vessel, as it is meet it should, according to the laws of gravitation ; but that which his body contains cannot make ready for so speedy a descent. The contained has received an impetus upward, and it keeps on in this direction, while the container goes down with the ship. The result may readily be inferred.

But even then the worst is still to come. When the upward action, the distressing nausea, the convulsive retching continue, the deeper secretions are disturbed, and the mouth is literally filled with gall and bitterness. All objects around you now lose their interest; the sea has neither beauty nor sublimity; the roaring of the wave is like the wail of death ; the careering of the ship before the wind " like a thing of life" is but the hastening and aggravation of agony. Your sympathy, if not lost, is paralyzed; your dear friend — perhaps the wife of your bosom — is suffering at the same time, but you have not the moral courage, if you have the heart, to go to her assistance. And even that very self, which is so absorbing and exclusive, seems, by a strange paradox, hardly so interesting as to be worth an existence.

If the theory already alluded to, of the inversion of the peristaltic motion, be true, it may yet be a curious, and perhaps not unprofitable physiological inquiry, what are the intermediate links between the motion of the vessel, which is obviously the primum mobile of all the agitation, and this inverted action of the digestive organs ? Is this latter the effect of a previous action upon the nervous system ? Is it the effect of sympathy between the brain and the stomach ? If a nervous derangement is a prior link, are the nerves wrought upon by the imagination ? and, if so, through what sense is the imagination affected ? Is it through the general feelings of the frame, the entire system, or is it chiefly through the organ of sight ? I have not skill or knowledge sufficient to answer these questions. I cannot but think, however, that the eye has much to do in this matter. If you look at the vessel in motion, it seems to increase the difficulty ; and hence, while under the influence of the disease, you cannot bear to look on anything around you, but are disposed to close the windows of the soul, and give yourself up to dark and gloomy endurance.