Travels on the Continent of Europe, in England, Ireland, Scotland, etc

Introduction

What ! another book of travels ! and that, too, describing the ground over which so many have travelled before ! What good reason can a man of principle and of sound judgment give for such a publication ? The author of the following pages for some time doubted whether he could give any good reason for bringing such a work before the public ; especially so much of it as relates to his travels on the Continent of Europe. He might plead the old excuse, the wish of friends ; he might say, what every one is aware of, that the rapid changes in this, that has been justly characterized the " transition age," constantly bring up new phases of observation to the discerning traveller ; and he might strengthen these considerations by the known fact, that the varieties of tastes, and professions, and intellectual habits lead different observers to notice and describe different aspects of the same thing ; and thus not only does each successive traveller give a new view, but the sketches of many are indispensable to complete the portraiture.

All these might have some weight; but, perhaps, not sufficient to satisfy every one that the present publication was strictly needed, or would compensate the ivell-read public for the expense of purchasing and time of reading. Another consideration, however, has influenced the author in this publication. It is this ; if the subjects of discussion and the objects of description are not new to a great portion of the public, they nevertheless are to some, and very probably to many, into whose hands the following sheets may fall. Almost every writer has his own circles of association, greater or less, to which his personal or public influence may be extended, when more distant influences, although superior, might not reach them. It is only in this way that all classes and VI

INTRODUCTION.

. parts of society are made to share in the vast accumulations of knowledge which characterize the age. If the religious associations, or professional pursuits, or extensive personal acquaintances give the writer of the following pages any chance for extending the knowledge of facts with which so many are already acquainted, he will esteem it a pleasure to be the humble channel of such communications. He is well aware that such an agency will be attended with no posthumous reputation ; that the production must, from the nature of the case, be of only an ephemeraL character ; and that, at best, after it has secured its temporary object, it will fall into the great mass of transient literature, that passes into oblivion with the age that gave it birth. Still it may produce some good effects, that will remain after their origin is forgotten.

Especially some of the rising generation, to numbers of whom the author, by his calling, holds an interesting relation, may receive some favourable impressions and gain some additional knowledge, which will not be lost on them, or those whom they, in their turn, may influence. This is what the author ventures most to expect, and it is certainly what he most desires. The reasons just given for publishing the following journal have influenced the matter and manner of the composition. I have de sired to call my readers, and especially the young, not only to such facts as will merely enlarge their knowledge of the existing state of the world, physical and moral, but also to such facts and principles as will more effectually prepare them for the great purpo ses of their being. The signs of the times clearly indicate that the moral conflicts which have heretofore been conducted with but partial success, because they have been conducted by but few, and have been circumscribed in their sphere, must take a wider range, and must be carried on with greater efficiency in the various departments of political, moral, and religious reform.

For this great work our youth should be trained. But an essential part of that training is an acquaintance with the present conditions of so ciety. By this one is taught not only what is to be done, but how,

INTRODUCTION.

. VII and where, and when he may exert his influence, be it great or small, in the common cause. If mere pleasure were to be com municated, I should not write on these subjects, which others can adorn more tastefully than myself ; if mere description of foreign objects were the design, I should not delineate scenes which have been so often delineated, and by pencils far more skilful than mine. But if any important truths, any facts connected with politics or morals, education or religion, can be wrought into the incidents of a journal so as to make them readable or acceptable, this is most that I can hope. With respect to the truth and general accuracy of the state ments here made, I think I may pledge myself to the public ; but still some errors will undoubtedly be noticed, When I see how many mistakes the late foreign journalists who have travelled in our country have made, and made, too, with an apparent desire to tell the truth, I cannot but feel there is great danger that I also should make similar mistakes with respect to the countries through which I have travelled ; especially as I have had too little time to accomplish all I desired in my investigations abroad, and too little leisure since I returned to review and digest the materials which I had so hastily collected.

In my notes on England, it may be thought, without a word of explanation, that I have made the affairs of my own denomination there too prominent. It should be remembered, however, that, in connexion with other objects that claimed my attention abroad, I was specially delegated by the General Conference of the Methodist Episcopal Church in the United States to represent to the Wesleyan body in England the state of the church here, and to keep up that friendly interchange of Christian salutation and that official intercourse between the two churches which has heretofore existed. To Methodists this must be a matter of interest, because, ecclesiastically speaking, it is with them a family concern. To others, the subject may possess, to some extent, the interest of novelty. The internal organization and practical working of this modifica-

INTRODUCTION.

. tion of Christianity is but little known, I apprehend, in this country ; and yet it is a subject worthy the attention of the philosopher, the philanthropist, and the Christian. Few communities are wielding such an extended and efficient influence in our world at the present day as the Wesleyan Methodists. As one of the ex traordinary features of the present age, therefore, this subject should be understood ; and hence I have not hesitated to give it a prominent place in that part of the following journal that relates to England. Many of the letters that are incorporated in the following work were written at different times during my tour to the persons to whom they are addressed ; but these covered but a smaller portion of the topics which I wished to introduce. A question, therefore, came up, in preparing the materials for the press, whether these letters should be enlarged and multiplied so as to place all the matter in the same form ; or whether, letting these stand essentially as they were, with the necessary revision and corrections, the additional matter should be thrown into the form of plain narrative.

The latter method, as will be seen, has been adopted. This, I know, is rather out of the common course, and may be the cause of a noticeable difference in the style ; but it has occurred to me that this may be no objection ; nay, that perhaps the monotony of one unvaried form may be relieved by the change, and be, at least, no drawback upon the interest of the work. I had much more matter which I might have inserted ; but I have made my book already too large, according to the fash ion of the day ; and fashion will have its influence in the size of a book as well as in everything else. I commit the work to the public not without some solicitude ; but, such as it is, as it has been promised, the public must have it. If it does little good, I trust, at least, it will do no harm ; and that is more than can be said of all that falls from the press at the present day. Wesleyan University, January, 1838. CONTENTS

Chapter I

Incidents of the Voyage.— Packet Accommodations. — Letter on Sea-sickness.— Passage from England to France. — Boulogne. — Joumey to Paris. — Amiens. — Incidents of Travel. — Arrival at Paris. — Lodgings. — Acquaintances formed . . . Page 9

Chapter II

Paris. — Avenue de Neuilly.— Elysian Fields. — Place de Concorde.— Views. — Bloody Executions here. — Boulevards.— Faubourgs.— Seine. — Public Gardens. — Tuileries. — Louvre.— Palais Royal. — Palais of the Luxembourg. — Churches. — Hospitals.— Place Vendome.— The Exchange . 20

Chapter III

Paris. — Markets. — Fountains.— Cemeteries.— Catacombs.— Pere la Chaise. — Manufactories. — Gobelin Tapestry. — Porcelain.— St. Cloud— Versailles. — Centralization of France. — Government of France. — Galleries of the Louvre. — State of the Fine Arts. — Mechanical Arts. — Philosophical Apparatus. — Surveillance of the Police. — Mode of Building 36

Chapter IV

Education in France. — University. — Literary Institutions and Schools. — Literary and Scientific Associations. — Libraries. — Museums, &c 53

Chapter V

State of Religion. — Letter to the Students ofthe Wesleyan University, containing illustrations of French Infidelity. — Protestantism in France. — Missionary Meeting. — Decline of Romanism. — Proper Ground for American Missions. — British Missions. — Proper Cause for establishing Missions in France. — Americans in Paris .... 63

Chapter VI

Departure for Lyons.— French Diligences. — Notice of several small Town6. — French Landscapes. — Comfortless Villages. — Female Degradation. — Hotels. — Cookery. — Chalons. — Arrival at Lyons. — Description of Lyons. — Departure for Mount Cenis and Turin. — Pont de Beauvoisin. — Passage of Eschelles. — Grotto. — Picturesque Winter Scenery. — Aerial Exhibition. — Chamberry. — Appearance of the Villages and of the Inhabitants. — Mountain Cottages. — Donkeys. — Goitrous Swellings. — Natural Aqueduct. — Lans-le-bourg. — Passage of Mount Cenis. — Arrival at Turin ... 85

Chapter VII

Sketches of Italian History from the Fall ofthe Ancient Empire. — Conquest of the Ostrogoths, of the Lombards, and of the Franks. — Feudal System. — Growth and Independence of the Cities. — War of Investitures. — Papal Assumptions. — Origin and Decline X CONTENTS. of the Italian Republics.— Frederic Barbarossa. — League of Lombardy.— Ware with Frederic, and their Termination.— War of the Crusades.— Guelfs and Ghibelines. — Cruelties of the Age.— Spanish Supremacy in Sicily and Naples.— Various Wars. — Dawning and Progress of Literature.— Fall of the Mercantile Republics.— Reformation in Italy.— Its Progress.— Persecutions.— Final Extinction of the Reformation.— French Revolution.— Conquest of Italy.— Cisalpine Republic— Kingdom of Italy. — French Influence, and its Effects.— Dethronement of Napoleon, and consequent Changes in Italy. — Present Political Divisions Page 102

Chapter VIII

Further Particulars of our Entrance into Italy. — Roman Catholic Superstitions. — Turin. — King of Sardinia. — River Pa — Route to Genoa.— Asti. — Allesandria. — Marengo. — Passage of the Apennines. — First View of the Mediterranean. — Reflections on its Historic Associations, and the present Character of the Population on its Shores. — Arrival at Genoa. — Its Location. — Military Defences. — Harbour. — Palaces. — Churches. — History. — Departure from Genoa. — Gardens and Orchards. — Mountain Scenes. — Grottoes. — Splendid Views. — Sestri. — Passage of the Bracco. — Splendid Exhibition. — Modena. — Vexations of Travellers from Health-officers and from Passports. — Lucca. — Washwomen 131

Chapter IX

Arrival at Florence. — Protestant Worship. — Description of Florence. — Royal Gallery. — Venus de Medicis, &c. — Reflections on Statuary. — Pitti Palace. — Gardens. — Picture Galleries. — Museum. — Academy of Fine Arts. — Manufacture of Pietra Dura. — Chapel of the Medici. — Cathedral. — Church of the Holy Cross, and its Monuments. — Education in Tuscany. — Infant Schools. — Advantage of Travellers to Italy. — Grand Duke. — His Superstition and uncontrolled Power 149

Chapter X

Departure from Florence.— Route to Pisa. — Sickness of Mrs. F. — Arrival at Pisa. — Separation of our Company. — My own Sickness. — M. Pevarada. — Pisa. — Foreign Expenditures in Italy.— Beggars. — River and Lung' Arno. — Cathedral. — Baptistry. — Leaning Tower. — Mode of building their Houses. — Neighbourhood of Pisa. — Farm of the Grand Duke. — Camels. — University. — Professor Foggi. — Preparatory Schools. — Learned Professions. — Romanism the Religion of the Natural Heart.— The Carnival . . 163

Chapter XI

Departure from Pisa.— Leghorn.— Its Business.— General Characteristics. — Steamboats. — Passage to Civita Vecchia. — Arrival, and Incidents of Travel. — Route toRome. — Entrance into Rome.— Departure for Naples.— Appian Way.— Pontine Marshes. — The "Three Taverns." — Fondi and Itri. — Incidents with Beggars. — Catholic Priest. — Cenotaph of Cicero. — Mora. — Three Ancient Republics.— Reflections on their Downfall.— Capua. — Vegetation.— Arrival at Naples 177

Chapter XII

Situation of Naples.— Views from the Royal Observatory.— Reflections.— Population of Naples. — Lazaroni. — Beggars.— Army. — Public Garden. — Architecture. — Church of St. Martin.— Cathedral.— Blood of St. Januarius.— Chapel of St. Severus, and its veiled Statuary.— Royal Observatory.— Reflections.— Cemetery.— Funeral.— Literature and the Arts. — Government.— Caprice and Fearsof the Government. — History. — Museum. — Different Halls and Galleries of Statuary and Bronzes. — Antiques from Pompeii.— Ancient Manuscripts and Paintings CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XIII

Environs of Naples. — Route to Pæstum. — Towns and Scenery on the Way. — Situation of Pæstum. — Ancient Temples. — Description of them.— Associations. — Pompeii. — General Description of Pompeii. — Streets, Temples, Houses, Shops. — Tombs. — Villa of Diomedes.— Torre del Greco. — Herculaneum.— Virgil's Tomb.— Grotto of Posolipo. — Pozzuoli. — Donkey Riding. — Solfatara.— Lake d'Agnano. — Grotto of the Dog. — Monte Nuovo.— Lake Avernus.— Grotto ofthe Sibyl. — Fables ofthe Sibyls.— Cimmerian Forests. — Baths of Nero. — Baiæ.— Ruins of Temples. — Piscini Mirabile. — Acherusia Palus, — Cuma. — Arco Felice. — Excursion to Vesuvius. — Mode of Ascent and General Description. — Cone- — View from the Summit. — Appearance of the Crater. — Inner Crater. — Descent to it. — Danger incurred in returning. — Former Characteristics of the Mountain. — Descent from the Mountain. — Preparations for leavmg Naples. — Travelling in Italy.— Caserta Page 205

Chapter XIV

Arrival at Rome. — Hotel Spilman. — Hired Lodgings.— Safety in Rome.— Letter to the Editors ofthe Methodist Magazine. — Passion Week. — Palm Sunday. — General of the Franciscans. — Pope. — Distribution of the Palms. — Procession. — Tenebræ. — Maundy Thursday. — High Mass. — Procession of the Host.— Benediction. — Washing Feet. — Dining of the Apostles.— Good Friday. — Offerings. — " Three Hours of Agony." — Saturday before Easter. — Baptism. — Ordination. — Easter Sunday. — Procession. — Tiara and other Robes of the Pope. — High Mass by the Pope. — Roman Courtesy. — The Holy Relics.— Second Benediction. — The Flagellation.— The Pilgrims.— Washing Feet. — Supper. — Don Miguel. — Female Apartment. — Taking the White Veil. — Conversion to Romanism of an English Lady. — Church of the Trinity.— Italian Music. -—Illumination and Fireworks. — Religious Processions. — Holy Staircase. — Second Letter to the Editors of the Methodist Magazine. — Tendencies of Romanism to Idolatry. — Rev. Mr. Dewey. — Romanism incompatible with Freedom. — Tends to Encourage Vice. — Impoverishes a Community 228

Chapter XV

Roman Antiquities. — The Forum. — Remains of Temples. — Triumphal Arches. — Columns. — Colosseum. — Palatine Hill. — Capitoline Hill. — Velabrum. — Antiquities near the Capitol. — Mamertine Prison. — Relative Position of the Seven Hills. — Trajan's Forum and Pillar.— Pantheon.— Roman Baths. — Ancient Tombs. — Catacombs. — Aqueducts. — Columns and Obelisks 291

Chapter XVI

Vatican Palace. — Different Galleries of Statuary. — Churches. — The Basilicæ. — St. Peter's. — St. John Lateran. — St. Maria Maggiore and other Churches. — Introduction to the Pope. — Singular instance of Servants. — Palaces of Rome. — Picture Galleries and Frescoes. — Halls of Raphael. — Mosaics. — Professions. — Libraries. — Propaganda. — Jews. — Dimensions of the City. — Bridges. — A Modern Hill. — Pincian Hill. — Piazza del Popolo. — Borghese Villa. — Letter to G. P. Disosway, Esq. — Excursions to Tivoli and Adrian's Villa. — Tartarean Lake. — Solfatara. — Cascades and Cataracts of the Anio. — Different Views. — Villa of Horace. — Grotto of the Sibyl. — Grotto of Neptune. — Temples of Neptune and Vesta.— Adrian's Villa. — Ancient Edifices. — Theatres. — Barracks. — Palace. — Historic Reminiscences. — Solitude of the Place. — Departure from Rome CONTENTS.

Chapter XVII

Different Routes to Florence.— Embarrassments.— Nero's Tomb.— Campania, Shepherds, and other Incidents.— Falls of Terni.— Different Views.— Mineralogical Formations. — Donkey Driving.— Spoleto.— Perugino.— Lake Thrasymene.— A Frenchman and his Daughter.— Battle-ground of Hannibal and Flaminius.— View of Florence.— Revisit of the Galleries. — Circumstances of our Departure from Florence. — A Consumptive. — Incidents of Travel over the Apennines. — Bologna. — Arcades. — St. Mary of St. Luke. — Leaning Towers.— Bologna School of Painting. — Picture Galleries.— University, &c. — Ferrara. — Ariosto.— Library. — Tasso's Prison. — Discontent ofthe Citizens. — Journey to Padua.— Different Objects on the Route.— Euganean Hills.— House and Tomb of Petrarch.— Padua.— Church and F6te of St. Anthony.— University.— Hail-storm.— Arrival at Venice.— Festival of St. Mark.— General Remarks on Venice. — Canals and Bridges. — Architecture.— Public Squares. — Piazza of St. Mark. — Church of St. Mark. — Bronze Horses. — Palace of the Doges. — Paintings — Reflections on the most appropriate Field for the Arts. — Venetian School of Painting.— Halls of the Secret Tribunals. — Progress of Venice from Democracy to Tyranny. — Bridge of Sighs. — Dungeons. — Imperial Palace.— Tower of St. Luke. — Tower of the Clock. — Mechanical Procession. — Legacy to the Pigeons. — Churches. — Masses for the Dead. — Canova's Monument. — Religious Character of the Venetians. — Decline of Venice. — Its Causes. — Farewell to Venice. — Incidents of Travel. — Vincenza. — Verona. — Tomb of Juliet. — Tombs of the Scaligeri. — Ancient Amphitheatre.— Mountain of Fishes. — Lake Garda. — Brescia. — Face of the Country. — Incident. — Reflections on Italian Character. —Arrival at Milan Page 344

Chapter XVIII

Milan. — Improved by Napoleon.— General Description. — Triumphal Arch.— Cathedral. — Feast of Pentecost. — The Ambrosian Church. — Business of Milan. — Education. — Government, Manufactures, and Commerce. — Canals. — Climate. — Palace ofthe Brera and its Various Institutions.— Libraries. — Last Supper of Leonardo da Vinci. — Church of St. Ambrose. — St. Carlo Borromeo. — Departure from Milan. — Como. — Lake. — Villa of Queen Caroline. — Passage up the Lake and Description of the Scenery. — Lake Maggiore. — Borromean Isles. — Isola Bella. — Bovena. — Reflections on leaving Italy 384

Chapter XIX

Fellow-travellers.— Bad Road. — Granite. — Dorreo d'Ossola. — Character ofthe Route. — Grottoes.— Entrance to Switzerland.— Cascades.— Commingling of Winter and Summer. — Village of Simplon. — Obstructions from Snow. — Descent of the Mountain. Brigg.— Swiss Mountain Cottages.— Cascade.— Sion. — Martigny. — Mountain Diseases. — Swiss Love of Home. — Cascade. — Lake Leman. — Vevay.— Scenery.— Lausanne.— Nyon.— Rev. J. William Fletcher.— Associations of Home.— Arrival at Geneva 398

Chapter XX

Geneva. — Strictness ofthe Police. — Reason for this. — Intolerance ofthe Sardinian Government. — Evangelical Society. — Decline and Revival of the Evangelical Cause. Promising Characteristics of that Cause. — Some unpromising Features. General Description of Geneva. — Schools and Learned Men. — Cathedral. — Sketches of History and Government. — Society and Scenery CONTENTS.

Chapter XXI

Departure from Geneva. — Incidents and Scenery.— Cottages.— Costumes.— Friburg. — Schools. — Site. — Suspension Bridge. — Linden-tree. — Canton of Berne. — City of Berne. — General Description. — Curious Clock. — Institutions. — Hofwyl. — Notice of Hofwyl School. — Mr. Fellenburg's Opinion of Religious Instruction. — Interspersed Reflections. — Agriculture of Hofwyl.— Mr. Fellenburg's Family. — Soleure— Passage of the Jura. — Bale. — Division of the Canton. — Cause, and Reflections upon it. — Missionary Institution. — Early Christian Movements in Bale. — College. — Library, &c. — Cathedral.— Manufactures and Trade.— Specimen ofthe Ludicrous.— Environs. — Departure from Switzerland Page 420

Chapter XXII

Duchy of Baden. — Country. — Peasantry.— Friburg Cathedral. — Stork's Nest. — Strasbourg. — Cathedral. — Telegraph, &c. — Town of Baden. — German Baths. — Old Castle. — Secret Tribunal. — Older Castle. — Carlsruhe. — Fair. — Coarse Females. — Scwhitzingue. — Heidelberg. — University. — Instruction and Discipline of German Universities. — Castle. — Route to Darmstadt. — Sketch of the History of Baden. — Smokers.— Darmstadt. — Town and Duchy 439

Chapter XXIII

Frankfort. — Jews. — Edifices. — Fine Arts. — Schools. — General Character of German Schools. — English on the Continent. — Trouble with a Coachman. — Mayence. — Fortifications. — Hanseatic League. — Invention of Printing. — Troubadours. — Passage ofthe Rhine. — Scenery. — Associations of Romance. — " Seven Mountains." — King's Stool.— Partition of the Rhenish States by the Allies. — Frederic William III. — His Religion. — Religion of the State. — Prussian School-system. — Libraries. — Universities. — Perfidy of the King 454

Chapter XXIV

Passage of the Rhine renewed.— Coblentz.— Bonn.— Cologne.— Cathedral.— P. P. Ru. bens. — Cologne Water. — German Princess.— Advantages of Female Company to the Traveller. — Hydraulic Works. — Nimeguen. — Loevestein. — Dort. — Rotterdam.— Mad Dog. — Cleanliness. — Canals and Hydraulics.— Churches.— Statue of Erasmus. — Commerce. — Belgic Question. — Excursion to the Hague.— Scenery of Holland.— Hague, —Route to Leyden. — Notice of the University and Town. — Passage to London. — Business of the Thames. — Parting with the Princess. — Reflections. — Feelings on landing in London 473

Chapter XXV

Resumption of our Journal at Liverpool. — Letter to G. P. Disosway, Esq. — Introductory Remarks. — Liverpool. — Docks. — Public Buildings. — Second Letter to G. P. Disosway, Esq. — Chester. — Roman Bath. — " Rows." — Walls. — Bishop. — Cathedral. — Castle. — Highland Regiment.— Excursion to Eaton Hall.— Scenery.— Palace. — Gardens, &c. Railroad to Manchester. — Rains. — Potteries. — Nocturnal Exhibition. — Reflections.— Coventry. — Dunstable. — English Manufactures Sectional. — St. Albans. — Arrival in London 488

Chapter XXVI

London.— Its early History.— Plague.— Great Fire. — Crowded Population.— Alterations.— Size and Population. — Influences of these.— Places of Public Worship.— In- CONTENTS. temperance. — Temperance Movements.— London Police. — Literary Institutions. — Fine Arts.— Other Institutions.— British Museum.— Colosseum. — Zoological Gardens.— Regent's Park.— Hyde Park.— Green Park.— James's Park— London Diet. — St. Paul's.— Westminster Abbey.— Chapels.— City Road Chapel.— Dr. Clarke's Tomb.— Tower.— Bridges.— Tunnel.— Docks Page 509

Chapter XXVII

Parliament.— Principal Speakers. — Present Administration. — Reform. — O' Connell's Course. — Reflections on Popular Agitations. — Morbid Excitability of the English. — Manner of conducting Public Assemblies. — Public Meeting of the " Protestant Association."— An Imposition.— Question of Church and State.— Agitation and Difficulties respecting it.— Objectionable Features of the English Church.— Danger of sudden Changes. — Impropriety of Foreign Interference. — Modes of Business in the British Parliament. — Eloquence. — Influence of Irreligion in the Ranks of the Liberals. — Colonial Policy 534

Chapter XXVIII

Excursion to Greenwich. — Royal Observatory.— Royal Hospital and Schools. — Woolwich. — Dover. — Situation. — Chalk-cliffs. — Barracks and Fortifications. — Castle. — Shakspeare's Cliff. — English Watering-places. — High Charges. — Characteristics. — Value of a Title. — Excursion to Bedfordshire. — Charity School of Bedford. — John Bunyan's Birthplace, &c. — John Howard's Birthplace. — Lord John Russel's Election to Parliament. — Missionary Meeting. — Missionary Tea. — Cambridge. — College Edifices. — King's College Chapel.— Founding of the Colleges. — Sketch of the Constitution and Regulations of Cambridge University. — Reflections. — Excursion to Windsor Castle. — Eton.— Fagging. — Windsor Castle. — Apartments. — Plate. — St. George's Chapel. — Excursion to Birmingham.— Oxford. — Mr. Hill. — Episcopal Succession. — Sketches of the University. — Libraries— Museum. — Marbles. — Royal Honorary Degrees. — Costumes. — Warwick Castle. — Stagecoach Conversation .... 553

Chapter XXIX

Wesleyan Conference. — Methodist Connexion in England. — Schism of Dr. Warren. — Chancery Decision. — Mr. Wesley's Poll-deed. — Kilhamites. — Finances ofthe Wesleyan Conference. — Order of building Chapels. — Missionary Operations. — Stationing of the Preachers.— Opening of Conference. — Dr. Bunting. — Respect for Seniority and Office. — Mr. Sturge's Circular. — Views of the Conference respecting the Methodist Episcopal Church. — Ordination. — Public Breakfast. — Ministerial Character. — Theological Institution. — Manner of Preaching 582

Chapter XXX

Birmingham. — Manufactures, &c. — Coal and Iron Mines. — Character ofthe Operatives- Bishop Asbury's Birthplace. — Anecdotes of Bishop Asbury. — Return to London.— Irish Reapers.— Agricultural Products. — Landscapes. — Route to Bristol. — English Stagecoach.— Dinner.— Bath.— Lodgings at Bristol.—" British Association."— Situation and General Description of Bristol. — Celebrated Men. — Wesleys in Bristol. Kingswood.— Voyage to Dublin 603

Chapter XXXI

Approach to Dublin. — Incidents of Landing. — General View ofthe Town. — St. Patrick's Cathedral.— Dean Swift.— Trinity College.— General Education.— Hatred ofthe English.— Difficulties in the Relations of the English Government to Ireland.— Remedies. — Methodists in Ireland.— Cars.— Departure from Dublin. — Drogheda. — Beggars. — As- CONTENTS. XV fecting Cases. — Wretchedness of the Peasantry. — Bogs. — Arrival at Belfast. — Route to Coleraine. — Fellow-traveller. — Coleraine. — Dunluce Castle. — Giant's Causeway. — Neighbouring Headlands. — Port Coon Cave. — Return to Belfast. — Balleymena Mar ket. — Loch Neagh. — Notice of Belfast, &c. — Presbyterian Church. — Passage to Scot land.—Ailsa Craig Page 620

Chapter XXXII

Greenock.— Port Glasgow.— Clyde. — Glasgow.— Its Growth and Business.— Edifices. — Morals. — Christian Charities. — Cathedral. — Cemetery. — University. — Other Institutions. — Sir William Hooker and the Botanical Garden. — Tour to the Highlands. — Dumbarton. — Leven Water. — Loch Lomond.— Islands. — Effects of Highland Scenery. — Ben Lomond.— Rob Roy. — Mountain Pass to Loch Ketturin.— Rob Roy's Fowlingpiece. — Loch Ketturin. — Boatmen. — Trosacks. — Hotel. — Route down the Vennachar. — Stirling. — Castle. — Route to Edinburgh. — Entrance into the City. — North Loch. — Sabbath in Edinburgh. — Scottish Courtesy. — University. — Botanic Garden. — Calton Hill. — Lord Melville's Monument. — Castle. — Holy Rood House. — Old and New Town. — Incorporated Trades. — Magistracy.— Route to England. — Newcastle-upon- Tyne. — Durham. — Races. — English Propensity. — York.— Cathedral. — Yorkshire. — Route to Leeds. — Accident. — Lodgings at Roundhey. — Leeds. — Its Business, &c. — Factory Children. — Yorkshire Dialect. — Ignorance of America. — Yorkshire Methodism. — Dissenters. — Quakers. — Woodhouse Grove School. — Kirkstall Abbey. — Route to Manchester. — Advertisements. — Musical Festival. — Cotton Manufacture. — Stockport.— Chimneys. — Derbyshire Peak. — Castleton. — Caverns. — Sheffield. — Mr. Montgomery. — Manufactures of Sheffield.— Rodgers's Showroom. — Grinders. — State of Religion. — Return to Manchester. — Missionary Meetings. — Departure for Liverpool. — Chapels. — Church Service. — Mr. M'Neal. — Reflections on English Character. — Farewell to England. — Passage Home. — Conclusion 643 ILLUSTRATIONS.

Isola Bella Frontispiece. View of Naples 204 St. Peter's 316 St. Mark's 372 Suspension Bridge 422 Tunnel 534 King's College Chapel 563 Edinburgh JOURNAL, &c.

Chapter I

Letter to the Editors of the Christian Advocate and Journal. Liverpool, Oct. 28, 1835. Reverend and dear Sirs, I have at length arrived in Liverpool, after a short passage of about eighteen days. And I hasten, according to promise, to give you, and, through you, my friends generally, the information that, through Divine mercy, we are all in health and good spirits. Before giving you any account of the events of the passage, I beg the privilege of acknowledging my obligations to the kind at tentions of my friends in your city, who manifested to the last such kind offices of friendship as will not be easily erased from my memory. One looks back with feelings which none but those who have them can frilly comprehend, to the expressions and acts of friendship and sympathy which they have received from those they love and honour in their own country, when in the land of strangers they find themselves alone in the midst of multitudes.

Such is our present situation. As we approached the pier of Prince's Dock, many of our passengers looked out, and hailed some acquaintance or friend, some brother or sister, who stood ready to clasp them by the hand, and welcome them on shore. It was then that I felt the contrast ; the thought came over me like the chill of winter, not one stands ready to welcome me ! We left a land of friends, who attended us to the last — to the dock — to the steamboat — to the ship — to the Hook ; nor did they leave us till the last opportunity of returning ; but here all are strangers. But enough of this. We shall doubtless find or make friends here — and, if not, we may maintain an intercourse with those we have B THE VOYAGE. left, second only in its pleasures to the delights of a personal in terview.