Cuba past and present

Contents

CHAPTER PAGE

I CUBA OF THE PAST 1

Discovery of Cuba, Its early history, Settlements, Attacks by Pirates, Wars, Revolutions, American intervention.

Chapter I

It was on October 28, 1492, that Columbus first sighted the beautiful island we now call Cuba and landed upon its northern coast. Although the great admiral was impressed with the marvellous fertility and beauty of this " Queen of the Antilles " and wrote that it was the " most beautiful land that human eyes have ever seen," he never circumnavigated the Island — merely landing on the south shore at a later visit, 1502 — and he died in 1506, believing that Cuba was a continent or a portion of Asia.

In 1508 the Spaniards, under Sebastian de Ocampo, explored the entire coastline of Cuba, demonstrating that it was an island, and on this trip the harbour of Havana was discovered. Here Ocampo careened his ships, pitching them with the soft asphalt still found in the hills of

Guanabacoa and from this fact he named the bay

l

" Puerto de Carenas " or " Port of Careening." At this time the Island was inhabited by numbers of naked, peaceful, friendly savages, much like those of the Bahamas, while the verdure and luxuriance of the land filled the Spaniards with wonder.

The Island was at first named " Juana " in honour of the Prince John, son of Ferdinand and Isabella; but at the death of the king it was changed to " Fernandina." Later it was again altered to " Santiago " after the patron saint of Spain, and still later it was again changed to " Ave Maria " after the Virgin Mary. The present name " Cuba " was the name by which the Island was known to the native Indians and which freely translated signifies a "jar of oil."

In 1511 another expedition, under command of Don Diego Velasquez and consisting of four ships and about 300 men, set out from Santo Domingo for Cuba. This expedition was sent forth by Diego Columbus, the son of Christopher, who was then governor of Hispaniola, and with the fleet sailed Don Hernando Cortes, who later became famous as the conqueror of Mexico.

Velasquez landed first at a port on the southern coast which he named Las Palmas and which was near the present town of Guantanamo, but this was not deemed a favourable spot for a settlement and it was not until 1512 that the town of Baracoa was founded on the northern coast. After seeing Baracoa established, Velasquez sailed to the southern coast and founded Bayamo and Trinidad, and finally entert I the magnificent harbour of Santiago which he founded in 1514.

In 1515 Velasquez established a settlement at the mouth of the Guines River on the southern coast which he called " San Cristoval de Habana," but the name was in 1519 transferred to the present Havana and San Cristoval became known as Batabano.

In 1519 a number of settlers were transferred from Batabano to the present site of Havana and their landing place may still be seen at a small chapel called the " Templete," while near at hand is a silk-cotton tree — a scion of the original ceiba under which the first mass was said at the landing.

Havana soon became a very important port, for it was in a commanding position and ships passing through the Florida Channel or from Central American and Mexican ports made it their place of call. Its richness and prosperity soon attracted the attention of the freebooters who sailed the Spanish Main and early in its history the city was sacked by the pirates repeatedly.

In fact, the early records of Cuba are almost wholly devoted to relating accounts of the manner in which the settlements were plundered and destroyed by pirates from England, Holland, and France.

The importance of the town and its unprotected condition soon made it apparent that strong fortifications were necessary, and in 1528 work was begun on two strong castles known as the " Bateria de la Punta," or the " Battery of the Point," and the " La Fuerza " or " Fort " ; both of which may still be seen with their ancient, mellow-tinted walls and quaint lantern-like sentry boxes. These two forts, together with the enormous castle known as the " Morro," on the opposite shore of the harbour, were not, however, completed for nearly a century and were still unfinished whes

Sir Francis Drake threatened the city in 1585 and 1592 and when the Dutch buccaneers arrived in 1628.

In 1538 Havana was totally destroyed by French privateers and to prevent another similar disaster, work on the fortifications was pushed diligently and the " Fuerza " was completed under the direction of Fernando de Soto in 1539. Again in 1554* the French sailed upon Havana which they attacked and reduced to ashes, despite the forts, and soon afterwards the additional fortresses of " La Punta " and " El Morro " were completed ; but it was not until 1665 that the city walls were begun and the city really became free from frequent pillage.

From the time of the completion of the forts and walls Havana became almost impregnable and in its harbour countless ships and galleons lay safely at anchor while its streets were filled with throngs of people and its residences were occupied by many an illustrious grandee and famous conquistador. Here died Ponce de Leon, founder of Porto Rico and discoverer of Florida, who was brought to Cuba fatally wounded by an Indian arrow; here Pamphilo de Narvarez outfitted his ill-fated expedition that in 1528 penetrated Florida and disappeared forever; and from Havana's harbour sailed forth in 1539 the greatest of all the expeditions, — that of De Soto. With pomp and ceremony, the blare of trumpets, fluttering banners and hundreds of mail-clad men, the ships set out ; but the leader was left resting beneath the waters of the Mississippi while poor Dona Isabel — De Soto's wife — gazed westward from Havana's parapets and watched through weary months for the return of the ships, finally dying of a broken heart as she realised the fate that had befallen them.

Until 1608 Santiago was still the capital of Cuba, in which year the seat of government was transferred to Havana, where it has remained ever since.

Santiago was as frequently attacked by pirates as Havana before the Morro and other forts were completed, and in 1553 a French privateer invaded the harbouir and for two days fought a desperate battle with a Spanish cruiser, only to retreat on the third day disabled and in an almost sinking condition. The same year a force of 400 French buccaneers attacked and captured the town, held it for a month and only withdrew upon the payment of an $80,000.00 ransom. A similar fate also befell Havana in 1534 and 1554 and again in 1624, the French and Dutch in turns capturing and holding the town for ransoms.

Not alone from freebooters and sea rovers did the Cubans suffer. Europe was constantly in a state of war and in 1662 the English attacked Santiago with nearly 1,000 men, carried off all the treasures, slaves, church bells and guns from the forts and left the town penniless, destitute and at the mercy of any enemy. The city soon recovered, however, and in 1663 the Morro was rebuilt and through storm and flood, stress and war, has withstood the shower of shot and shell, of earthquake and of hurricane, and still stands — frowning, grim and defiant upon the lofty cliffs above the entrance of the harbour it has guarded so well.

Havana has not at all times been Spanish, however, for in 1762 Lord Albermarle, with a fleet of over 200 ships and an army of some 15,000 men, assisted by colonial troops from New England with " Old Wolf Putnam " in command of a regiment, arrived off the harbour. The Spaniards, completely taken by surprise and entirely unprepared for an invasion, hastily assembled a few troops and for nearly a month put up a determined and obstinate resistance^ On July 3 the Morro was blown up and partly destroyed and the English from this point trained their guns on the city forts which were obliged to surrender on August 14. For a year Havana was under British domain but it cost England and her colonies dearly, for no less than 30,000 lives and $16,000,000.00 were required to capture the city, which in the following year was exchanged for Florida.

For nearly a century Cuba prospered, — almost undisturbed by foreign or domestic troubles, — although the misrule, cruelty and oppressiveness of the Spaniards gradually paved the way for rebellion, slaughter and the ultimate loss of the Island to the crown of Spain.

So unbearable had the condition of the Cubans become that in 1848 the United States offered Spain $100,000,000.00 for Cuba but the offer was refused, whereupon the Cubans commenced preparations for open rebellion.

The Narciso Lopez outbreaks in 1850 and '51 were futile and many lives were lost, but in 1868 a rebellion blazed forth which lasted through ten long years, ravaged the Island from end to end and was terminated only by the treaty known as the Peace of Zanjon which Spain soon abrogated.

Although important reforms were promised they were never fulfilled and in 1895 the most formidable of all rebellions broke out in the Island.

This revolution soon grew to such an extent that in 1905 Marshal General Campos was sent out from Spain, but in suppressing the rebellion he failed and the notorious " Butcher " Weyler succeeded him. Although Weyler did everything in human power to suppress the revolution — resorting to inconceivable cruelties and the most extreme measures — yet the rebellion steadily grew in extent, while Weyler was succeeded by Blanco ; the war continued, and the culmination came in

1898 with the destruction of the Maine in Havana harbour.

Within one hundred days thereafter Cuba was freed from Spain and on the first of January, 1899, Blanco and the last Spanish soldiers set sail for Spain and the Stars and Stripes waved from the ancient forts and buildings over which for so many years had flaunted the red and yellow banner of Castile and Leon.

For three years Cuba remained an American possession and under the military government of the United States a wonderful work of reformation, reconstruction, sanitation, and improvement was carried out, until on May 20, 1902, Tomas Estrada Palma took his office as first president of " Cuba Libre " and the Island was launched forth as a new republic with a glorious future, unwonted prosperity and untold resources before it.

Chapter II Geogeaphy And Chabacteeistics

Cuba — the very name conjures visions of romance, beautiful women, soft music-filled nights and cigars, and — were the truth known — in the minds of most people cigars are more intimately associated with thoughts of Cuba than anything else.

Cuba, the " Pearl of the Antilles," is the largest of the West Indies and is the nearest island of importance to the United States, as from Key West to Havana is less than 100 miles.

From Cape Maysi on the east to Cape San Antonio on the west, Cuba stretches for nearly eight hundred miles and from north to south it varies in width from twenty t? one hundred miles; the total area being about 45,000 square miles; six times the size of Jamaica or a trifle larger than the State of Pennsylvania; while, if placed on a

map of the United States, it would cover a space the width of New Jersey and stretching from New York to Indianapolis.

About one-fourth of the surface is rough and mountainous, some three-fourths of the remaining area plains and rich valleys, and the small balance swamps.

The majority of people — and even those who have visited Havana — imagine Cuba as a flat, rather level island. In reality, the Island is exceedingly mountainous in many places and the summits of the Sierra Maestra range in the southeastern part of the Island are among the loftiest in the West Indies ; the highest peak, Pico Turquino, towering to the clouds for a height of 8,320 feet and surpassing the Blue Mountains- of Jamaica by 1,000 feet and second only to Loma Tina of San Domingo in altitude.

The shore line of Cuba is very broken and irregular, with numberless bays, lagoons and coves and with over 600 small islets or " cays " off the north shore and over 700 off the south shore. While these islands render the navigation of Cuban waters dangerous and difficult yet at the same time Ithey serve to break the force of wind and waves

LOMA DEL ANGEL"

THE NARROWEST STREET IN HAVANA

GEOGRAPHY 13

and Cuba has more good ports, for a place of its size, than any other island in the world. In fact, one of the Island's nicknames is the " Isle of One Hundred Harbours," more than fifty of the harbours being ports of entry and practically landlocked.

Flowing across the broad and fertile plains from the distant mountains and emptying their waters into the Caribbean and the Atlantic, are numerous rivers, many of them broad and beautiful, but only one — the Cauto, near the eastern end of the Island — being navigable for any great distance.

In many places near the coasts, and particularly in the south-central district, are large swamps, while in the eastern provinces are extensive forests and in the mountains are rich mineral deposits.

With its varied surface, its tropical climate and its rich soil, Cuba offers ideal conditions for rich and luxuriant vegetation and the flora comprises over 3,000 species, while the forests contain such valuable woods as mahogany, lignum-vitae, granadilla, sweet cedar, logwood, sandal wood, red sanders, etc. ; the forest area covering nearly fifty per cent, of the Island's surface, more than

1,200,000 acres being government land. In addition, every tropical fruit, flower, plant and product thrives luxuriously in Cuba, while in the mountains and high interior plains many temperate products may be raised.

Though so rich in flora, Cuba is poor in fauna — ' save for birds and insects — the only native mammals being the odd Solenodon or " Almiqui " and the giant tree-rat or Capromys, known locally as the " Hutia." Deer have, however, been introduced and in many districts deer hunting is a favourite pastime.

The birds of Cuba are very numerous, including over 200 species, many of them magnificently beautiful in colour, others with wonderful songs, while a number are true " game birds " and are much hunted. The marine fauna is very rich, the bays, rivers and seas abounding in food fishes, crabs, shrimps and lobsters, while manatees are found in the swamps and river mouths and shellfish and crawfish are also abundant.

Serpents and other reptiles are common but are non-poisonous. Alligators are found in the swamps, iguanas and other lizards abound, and

GEOGRAPHY 15

numerous snakes, the largest of which is the Cuban boa or maja, are common in the forests.

The insect fauna of Cuba, as in all tropical countries, is very rich and numerous, scorpions, centipedes, tarantulas, and giant cockroaches being common, while giant fireflies make the nights glorious with their myriads of twinkling, glowing lights. Of troublesome insect pests Cuba has its share, for mosquitoes, fleas, ticks and the " chigo w or " jigger " all occur, but are seldom troublesome to the traveller, save in outlying districts or the poor native huts.

In fertility and resources Cuba is remarkable and is exceeded only by San Domingo, and as the latter island is undeveloped a comparison of the two countries is of little value.

Even under Spanish rule Cuba was wonderfully rich and prosperous and since she has become an independent republic her commerce and industries have increased marvellously.

Indeed, Cuba is an intensely commercial country, importing nearly everything she consumes and exporting virtually all she produces. Since 1902, when the republic began, up to 1919, Cuba's foreign commerce has increased 500 per cent, with the balance of trade largely in favor of the republic. The United States plays a predominating role in both the export and import trade of the republic, buying vast quantities of sugar, tobacco, iron and copper ore, and selling to the Cuban merchants foodstuffs, textiles, boots and shoes, steel products, coal and lumber. Cuba's principal crop is sugar, next in value is tobacco, while citrus fruits, bee products, hard woods, molasses are important products which bring large returns to the native planters, many of whom are very prosperous.

Moreover, Cuba is not over-populated, for with its population of 2,700,000 there are but fiftythree persons to the square mile, as compared to 330 in Porto Rico, 425 in England, 315 in Germany, 317 in Japan, 310 in Italy, 500 in Rhode Island, 600 in Belgium and 1,000 in Bermuda, although Cuba could easily support more inhabitants to the square mile than any of the above countries.

There is a popular belief that a large proportion of the Cubans are negroes or coloured, but as a

GEOGRAPHY 17

matter of fact only 30 per cent, are coloured, the balance or 70 per cent, being of pure Spanish descent or whites from other countries.

Cuba to-day is a progressive, orderly, healthy and modern country with over 5,000 schools, splendid sanitation, excellent hospitals, magnificent public institutions, and a marvellously efficient police force which has rendered the Island one of the safest places in the world. The transportation facilities consist of over 2,500 miles of steam railways, nearly 300 miles of electric railways, a thousand miles and more of splendid macadam highroads, numerous coastwise steamers and twenty-two steamers a week to the United States, not to mention the various ships sailing to South and Central America, Europe and the West Indies.

Within the past few years numbers of foreign immigrants and colonists have flocked to the Island, attracted by the low price of land and the superlatively productive soil; the average yearly immigration amounting to nearly 45,000 people. Many foreigners have taken up land in Cuba and have done well, for the native markets and foreign export trade demand far more than the supply of fruits, vegetables and other products raised. Garden truck yields anywhere from $100.00 to $400.00 per acre. Citrus fruits yield from $50.00 to $500.00; tobacco is planted, grown and gathered in ninety days and often brings a profit of five hundred dollars an acre ; while sugar cane, on the best soil, may be cut for fifty years without transplanting. In most places, however, irrigation is necessary to insure a profitable crop of tobacco or vegetables and without it the crops are often a total loss.

In point of health Cuba is the second healthiest country in the world, Australia alone being better, with Porto Rico third, the death rate per thousand in Cuba being but 12.69, while in the United States it is 15.00. The climate—* though tropical — is seldom oppressively hot, save in the coast towns, and the nights are usually cool and pleasant. The average range of mean temperature is but 12 degrees F. with a July average of 82.4 and a January average of 70.3 and an extreme range of from 60 to 92. In the mountains the average temperatures are much

GEOGRAPHY 19

lower and the nights are often so cool that blankets and light overcoats are required. The rainfall is not excessive, the average being fifty-four inches a year and the winter months are usually dry with showers during the summer or rainy season. On the coasts the rainfall is far less and in the interior far more than the average given, but as compared with other tropical islands the rainfall is comparatively light.

CHAPTER IH

A great many people know much less about Cuba than about far distant countries, although it is so close to our shores and the real truth about this island is seldom known save to those who have actually visited it.

It is a common idea that Cuba is a veritable plague spot with a torrid temperature, unbearable in summer, and with a turbulent, undesirable people ; a country covered with vast swamps where poisonous reptiles and malignant fevers lurk, and in fact a country dangerous to visit and fatal to live in — save for a few days or weeks in the tourist season.

In reality the very contrary is the case. Cuba is the second healthiest country in the world; its climate in summer never reaches the terrific, sweltering, humid heat of our Northern cities; there

are no poisonous snakes ; the swamps are few and only on the coast; fevers seldom or never occur in the interior and even in the coast towns, where formerly yellow fever and malaria abounded, the elimination of mosquitoes has stamped " Yellow Jack " from the Island and nearly wiped out malaria.

The Cubans themselves are quiet, sober, hospitable and peaceful — the very fact that for so many years they remained loyal to Spanish misrule proves this — but like all Latin races they are temperamental, quick-tempered, haughty, proud and inclined to be lazy and to put everything off to manana.

Cuba has always been famous as among the richest agricultural countries on the globe, considering the size and population of the Island. Even under Spanish military rule Cuba was highly profitable, and for over twenty years paid an annual revenue to Spain of from twenty to forty million dollars.

At that time there were but some 1,200,000 people on the Island and less than ten per cent, of the land was cultivated. Think of it! Little more than a million people paying an average of n CUBA, PAST AND PRESENT

30,000,000 dollars annually or practically $30.00 per capita — almost as great for each inhabitant as the total per capita circulation of the United States ! In no other country could such a situation be found and yet this heavily taxed and terribly mistreated people paid this enormous tribute, and, more wonderful yet, they lived, had numerous luxuries and many of them grew rich.

If such was the condition before Cuba gained her freedom, what may we not expect when under her own rule and zealously watched, guarded, and fostered by the United States. For many years Americans and other foreigners would have been glad indeed to invest money in Cuba if it could have been safely accomplished under Spanish rule ; but to-day capital is flowing in with wonderful rapidity for the Cuban government is guaranteed stability by our own government and American investors are as safe in Cuba as in the United States. As the population of Cuba increases at the rate of 90,000 a year and births exceed deaths by 45,000 yearly, the population will soon double and treble and with the increase of population so also will the productiveness and resources increase.

Each year and month and day the people are being educated, are becoming more intelligent, and are learning to improve conditions so that none can foresee or can begin to estimate what prosperity may be Cuba's in another twenty years.

With a soil unequalled in fertility, an ideal climate, health second to but one land in the world, scenery that rivals that of California and the great markets of America within three days of her doors, no country has a more brilliant prospect than the " Pearl of the Antilles."

Possibly no other event since the liberation of the Island will affect the future of Cuba as much as the opening of the Panama Canal and already the benefits are being felt. All over the fertile Island modern methods and progress are pushing out the old-time, slow-going methods and conservatism and, best of all, the old-time customs are giving way — not to a foreign invasion that will destroy the national character, language and traditions of a people as in Porto Rico — but to a rejuvenation, a transition and a newer, more liberal, brighter life brought about by the Cubans themselves for their own race and children.

Throughout the Island the crude, thatched hovel is giving place to neat cottages, the lumbering ox carts are being supplanted by spring wagons, automobiles speed over many miles of roads whereon mule-trains were formerly the only means of transportation. Wells and windmills have generally supplanted the water carts and irrigation has made countless parched acres to blossom and bear and add their bountiful crops to the Island's whole. In the old Spanish days sugar and tobacco were practically the only moneymaking crops, for the Spanish government prohibited raising many articles considered essential until the native planter had become thriftless, careless and discouraged and by the smallest possible amount of labour secured enough returns from his two crops to pay his tribute to the crown and support himself and family in comparative comfort.

With the advent of shrewd, trained agriculturalists and modern methods all this has been changed and by leaps and bounds the fertile land is being transformed into the most productive of all garden spots.

Moreover, the Cuban is ready and willing to learn from his American neighbours, and as he sees these strangers succeed and grow rich, he too aims to do the same, and while it still remains for the American settler to lead the way to improved conditions, yet on every hand the Cuban is found at his side, learning, helping and with each mutually benefitting from the other's store of experience and knowledge.

Not all the settlers in Cuba will succeed; hard work, perseverance and patience are required, for no form of agriculture — no matter where situated — was ever or will be ever a " get-richquick " proposition.

Many settlers have, however, succeeded almost beyond belief and even in those particular lines in which the Cubans were supposed to excel all others. While Cuban tobacco has long been recognised as the finest in the world it has often been assumed that much of its success was due to the care and cultivation which only Cubans could master. In reality, while it is perfectly true that what a Cuban does know of tobacco he knows as well or even better than any one else in the world, the lack of education, of experience, of years of scientific research and study which have benefitted our tobacco growers has handicapped the Cuban. In one or two seasons of observation of local conditions the Northern farmer can acquire all that it has taken the Cuban generations to learn. By adding what he has thus acquired to Yankee common sense and modern scientific methods, the American can secure a better quality of tobacco than Cubans ever dreamed of and with the increased size of leaves, superior quality and greater yield come higher prices.

In the past the great drawback to Cuban agriculture has been the lack of water, for in dry seasons there was a poor crop or in wet seasons the fields were flooded ; but now, with wells, windmills and irrigation systems a good crop is always assured and an abundance of water is ever at hand.

These facts are no truer of tobacco than of any other crop and while Americans are succeeding wonderfully well — where land and conditions are favourable — - yet the Cuban is also " making good," for the same indomitable spirit, untiring perseverance and bright hopefulness that led him through jungle and swamp in his fifty years' war against Spain will enable him to conquer all obstacles and to carve out a glorious future for himself and his beloved " Cuba Libre."

Chapter IV

Havana, first seen at sunrise from the sea, is transcendingly beautiful and a sight never to be forgotten. To the left the grim old Morro stands out boldly on its rocky promontory, while to the right the flat-roofed, multicoloured town stretches for miles along the surf-bordered shore and bathed in the glorious rosy light of dawn the city appears like some wonderful pastel or like a scene from fairyland, in its setting of amethyst and turquoise sea, azure sky and distant green hills.

Between the Morro and the town lies a strait of deep blue water scarce two hundred yards in width and as the ship steams slowly between the guns of the ancient " Punta " fort and the battlements of grey old Morro, we see before us the extensive harbour. Moored to buoys and to the immense concrete docks are scores of great ocean steamships flying the flags of every nation, while a for- 28 est of masts stretches for a mile or more along the waterfront where sailing vessels of every rig and country are loading and discharging cargoes at innumerable wharves and slips. Busy launches, bright coloured rowboats, clumsy droughers, fussy tugs and puffing ferryboats plough back and forth across the waters of the bay in every direction while the distant shriek of locomotive whistles, and the clang of trolley cars are borne faintly across the water from the town.

As the visitor looks upon this mass of shipping, upon the busy wharves and the teeming waterfront of the town, he realises that Havana is no small, crude, tropical town, but a huge, bustling, modern city and withal as foreign, as fascinating and as strange as any city of the old world.

A few years ago Havana presented a low, even skyline of flat-roofed houses broken only by the old grey church towers with their ancient belfries. To-day modern, fireproof hotels and office buildings rear their steel and concrete heights above the older edifices and towering smoke-belching chimneys mark the enormous electric power plant and various factories.

Although vast changes have been wrought in Havana by the erection of modern buildings, by the repaving of streets, by the installation of trolley lines and by modern methods of sanitation, yet the town as a whole remains unaltered. The life, the people, the customs and the charm of local atmosphere are the same as a score of years ago — modernity has improved it, has eliminated much of the bad and has robbed it of none of the good and has left it the same lovable, interesting and quaint old town as of yore.