The boy collector's handbook

Chapter I Page

General hints on collecting. What constitutes a good collection. Objects and aims of collecting. Interest and value of collections. Importance of system, classsification and arrangement. Labelling and cataloguing the specimens. Various types of collections. What not to collect. Value of the camera and microscope to collectors.

Chapter II

The simplest things to collect. Tools and implements required. Where to find minerals. How to collect the specimens. Ledges, cliffs, caves, etc. Meteors. Identifying and classifying the specimens. Arranging the mineral collection. Commercial minerals and rocks. Labelling.

Chapter III

Value and interest of fossils. Tools and appliances required for collecting. Where fossils are found. Different kinds of fossils. Fossil puzzles. Preparing fossils. Classifying and arranging the specimens.

Chapter IV Plants And Vegetable Specimens 48

Specializing. Plants, flowers and grasses. Tools and appliances required. When and where to collect. Preparing the specimens. Mounting and labelling. Photographs and

CONTENTS

PAGE

drawings. Preservation of plants. Fungi. The Wood collection. Importance of woods. When to collect woods. How to prepare the specimens. Arranging the collection. Seeds and nuts. Leaves. Collecting and preparing leaves. Prints of leaves. Solar prints. Autographic prints. Photographing leaves. Labelling and arranging. Strange foreign trees and plants. Casting fruits. How to make plaster molds. How to make wax fruits. Coloring. Making molds in several pieces. Making gelatine molds.

Chapter V

Importance of insects to mankind. Number of insects. Haunts and habits. Seasons for collecting. Methods of collecting. Appliances necessary to collect insects. Killing insects. How to carry the specimens. Mounting and preparing insects. Labelling. Collecting caterpillars. Preparing larvae. Where and how to collect insects. How to handle insects. Mounting butterflies and moths. Collecting at night. Rearing insects. Photographing insects. Collecting beetles. Beating for insects. Wasps, bees and other insects. Flies. Water insects.

Chapter VI

What animals to collect. Preserving life. Tools and appliances for collecting. How to collect. Where to collect. What you will find. Strange denizens of the water. Snails and shells. Pearls.

Chapter VII

Abundance of marine animals. Groups of marine animals. Zones of life. Shore animals. Tools and appliances needed. What and where to collect. Animals below low-water mark. Collecting shallow water animals. Strange things you may find. Deep water animals. Tools and appliances required. How to use the various apparatus. Collecting in the south. Other methods of collecting. Surface animals. Appliances for collecting. How to collect surface animals. Interesting specimens. Preserving, preparing and classifying marine animals. Seaweeds. Preparation of sea weeds. Labelling and arranging specimens.

CONTENTS

Chapter VIII Page

Value of photographs. What may be photographed. Cameras to use. Photographing birds' nests. Photographing birds on their nests. Photographing young birds. Developing and printing the pictures. Photographing wild birds. Enlarged pictures. Photographing wild animals. Snakes, fishes and reptiles. Photographing marine animals. Photographing insects. Photographing trees, flowers and similar objects. Importance of labelling and classifying the pictures.

Chapter IX

THE USE AND VALUE OF THE MICROSCOPE ... 218 Value of the microscope to collectors. Simple microscopy. Instruments and appliances required. Mounting specimens for the microscope. Using the microscope. Specimens of interest. Value of the microscope for commercial and industrial purposes. Drawing through the microscope. Making photomicrographs. Exposures, development, etc. Semimicroscopic photographs.

Chapter X

Importance of Indian relics. Classes of relics. Ancient and modern relics. Real and "fake" relics. Buckskin and bead work. Baskets. Ancient relics. Stone implements. Exchanging specimens. Pottery. Photographs of relics. Care in opening mounds and graves. Shell heaps. Other places to search for relics. Arranging and classifying the relics. Relics which puzzle the collector. Identifying relics.

Chapter XI War, Historical, And Other Relics 257

Interest of war and historical relics. What to collect. Where to collect. Incidents of collecting. Fire arms.

CONTENTS

PAGE

Weapons. Counterfeits and imitations. Exchanging. Handling weapons. What not to collect. Historical relics. What an historical relic is. Collections of buttons. Shoes. Door knockers and other objects.

Chapter XII

Collecting stamps. How to start the collection. Albums and catalogues. Importance of perfect specimens. Duplicates. Minor differences. Dies, papers, watermarks, perforations, shades, etc. Issues. Used or unused stamps. Surcharges. Cut stamps. Keeping the original envelopes. Precancelled stamps. Errors. Envelope stamps. Entire envelopes. How to keep envelope stamps. Stamps in pairs. Sheets and plate numbers. How to mount stamps. Original gum. Keeping duplicates. How stamps become rare. Classifying and arranging. How to obtain stamps. Where rare stamps have been found. Some personal anecdotes. Educational value of stamps. Scenes, rulers, animals, industries, etc., which may be found on stamps. Coins. What coins to collect. Ancient and modern coins. Rarity of coins. Old Spanish coins. Savage currency. Cowries, wampum, etc. Picture post cards. Why post cards have fallen into disrepute. Real interest and value in post cards. How to make a collection. What to strive for.

CHAPTER II Fig. i Interior of a limestone cave showing stalactites, etc.

2 Crystal of sandstone

3 Concretion

4 Quartz crystals on dark mount

5 Calcite to show double refraction

CHAPTER HI Fig. i Fossil coral

2 Fossil shells

3 Fossil sea urchin

4 Mud casts of shell

5 Fossil reptile (restored)

6 Fossil plants

7 Sea lily

8 Crinoid stem

9 Shell mounted on pedestal

CHAPTER IV

Fig. i Plant gathered for pressing

2 Plant mounted with strips of paper

3 Plant to show flying seeds

Plant mounted to show habits of flowering

4 Specimen of wood in the rough

5 Various steps in cutting wood specimen

6 Specimens of woods finished

7 Tree in winter and summer

8 Solar print of leaf

9 Photograph of leaves

Photographs of seeds and flowers of trees io Lace of lace-bark tree

11 Apple in clay, ready to cast

12 Making the first half of mold

Fig. 13 First half of mold with apple

14 Mold ready to make the second half

15 How the "gutter" is made

16 Section of apple

17 Section of apple-mold

18 Section of melon

19 The wrong way to mold a melon

20 A mold in several pieces

21 Another way to mold a melon

22 Pear in clay bed

23 Pear ready to mold

24 Mold made in three pieces

25 Ready to make the gelatine mold

CHAPTER V Fig. 1 Nets

2 Hoop for net

3 Hoop set in ferrule

4 Cyanide bottle (section)

5 How to fold butterfly papers

6 Placing the specimen in the paper

7 Butterfly folded in paper

8 End of mounting board

9 Mounting board with cork

10 Breeding cage

11 Tin cut for making oven

12 Oven completed

How to distinguish moths from butterflies

13 How to hold the insect for mounting

14 Butterfly properly pinned

15 Position of butterfly on mounting board

16 Where to place the first specimen

17 How board should be ruled

18 Insect ready to mount Prometheus moth and cocoon

19 Moths showing wings open and closed

Well mounted moth ichneumon fly emerging from chrysalis

20 Moth trap

21 Flower pot with netting

22 Caterpillar infested with ichneumons

Fig. 23 Incision in caterpillar

24 Twig caterpillars

25 Beetle properly pinned and spread

26 Beetle mounted with expanded wings 2J Burying beetles

28 Nest of carpenter bee

CHAPTER VI Fig. 1 Scoop

2 Caddice fly and houses

3 Horned corydalis

4 Giant water bug

5 Fresh water snails

CHAPTER VII

Fig. 1 Eggs of winkle

2 Skate's egg

3 Univalve shell

4 Bivalve shell

5 Hermit crab

6 Sea urchin

7 Sea anemone

8 Serpent starfish

9 Naked mollusc

10 Swimming crab

11 Sand dollar

12 Native coral

13 Teredo or ship worm

14 Wood bored by teredo

15 Goose barnacles

16 Dredge

17 Trawl

18 Tangles

19 Oyster tongs

20 Position of launch for dredging

21 Position of dredge when sailing

22 Tray and sieve for emptying dredge

23 Coral nippers

24 Towing net

25 Pteropod shell

Fig. 26 Argonaut

The nautilus 27 A Baby crab 27 B Young oyster

27 C Young starfish 2?] D Young barnacle

28 Shell mounted on wire

29 Live coral

30 A perfect coral specimen

31 Gorgonia with expanded animals

CHAPTER VIII

Fig. 1 Submarine photograph

2 Shrike photographed from life

3 Deer or white-footed mice Young whippoorwill Gray Squirrel

4 Odd positions of turtle and frog as disclosed by

photography

5 Portuguese man-o'-war, photographed from living speci-

men

6 Sea anemone photographed from life

7 Prometheus moth photographed from live specimen

8 Sphinx caterpillar photographed from life

9 Moth which imitates bark photographed from life

10 Beetles which mimic hornets

11 A fly which mimics a bee

12 Photographs aid in identifying trees

CHAPTER IX

Fig. 1 Scales on butterflies' wings as seen under the microscope

2 Photomicrograph of fly's jaw

3 Photomicrograph of shell-sand

4 Camera-lucida drawing of insects' antennae

5 Camera-lucida drawing of insects' feet

6 Camera-lucida drawing of section of horse's skin

7 Photomicrograph of section of cat's stomach

8 Photomicrograph of cinchonidine crystals

9 Photomicrograph of snail's tongue

10 Photomicrograph of head of aphis lion

Fig. ii Direct magnified photograph of dandelion head 12 Direct magnified photograph of aphis lion

CHAPTER X Fig. i Hatchet used as tomahawk

2 Stone skull-cracker

3 Gun-stock ornamented by Indians

4 Bow and arrow case

5 Photograph of Indian carvings on rock

6 How to mount arrow-heads

Photograph of prehistoric ruin in central America

CHAPTER XII Stamps of various countries

Chapter I

THERE are many reasons why boys should collect something. In the first place collecting furnishes an interest, an ambition, and a definite object; and, moreover, a boy can scarcely collect anything without adding to his education and knowledge. To collect some things it is necessary to get out in the open, to stroll through fields and forests, and this in itself makes collecting worth while. Finally, collections, if properly made, cared for, and classified, are often of great intrinsic value, and many a youthful collection Has been sold for a large sum after the young collector had grown to manhood.

As to just what to collect, each boy must decide for himself. As a general rule, collect the things in which you are most deeply interested. If you are fond of outdoor life and take an interest in flowers, plants, insects, minerals, or other natural objects, by all means select one or two of these for your collections. If, on the other hand, you are fond of history, geography, travel, strange people, or similar subjects, you should collect objects relating to them, such as antiques, weapons, war relics, documents, native handiwork, stamps, coins, etc.

But don't try to collect too much; it's almost impossible to collect a great variety of objects of widely different kinds and do justice to them all. Another matter which should influence the choice of objects to collect is that of expense. It costs a great deal to collect some things and few boys can afford to spend the necessary money. Good antiques, old books, armor, valuable autographs, and even coins all have a high market value and are better suited to wealthy, advanced collectors or great museums than to boys. Such things must usually be purchased or exchanged and, moreover, there are so many counterfeits and forgeries constantly offered that an expert knowledge and long experience is required to tell the real from the spurious articles.

There are numerous other things which may be collected at far less expense and which are just as interesting, however. Stamps, exclusive of the rarest issues, are fairly cheap if purchased, and, as a rule, the young collector may obtain a very complete and interesting collection of stamps without buying a single specimen.

Many interesting war and historical objects may be obtained with little cash outlay, but in every case, where man-made objects are collected, you must either buy, beg, or exchange the specimens. For this reason collections of natural objects are far more satisfactory, for the collector can secure and prepare the specimens himself and in doing this will learn far more of interest and value than would be possible when merely purchasing or trading the specimens from others. A great many people boast of the cost of their collections ; apparently thinking that the more expensive a collection is the more valuable it becomes. On the other hand, many collectors are proud of the size of their collections and state that they contain so many thousand stamps, plants, or what not, evidently believing that mere numbers of specimens prove the value of their possessions. As a matter of fact, neither cost nor quantity necessarily means that the collection is really valuable. A certain stamp, coin, or other specimen may cost thousands of dollars and yet that one object would not constitute a collection and might not be one-tenth as interesting or valuable as would a well-selected, typical series of specimens costing a few cents, or nothing at all. It is the same way with size. A collection may number thousands of specimens and yet be so badly arranged, so improperly classified, so poorly preserved or otherwise so lacking in interest or value as a whole to be worthless. Any one can gather together a half million or more common postage stamps or wild flowers, but that wouldn't prove that the accumulation was a good collection.

The objects to aim at in collecting anything and everything are first; completeness. Second; interest. Third; perfection. Fourth; classification. Fifth; arrangement; and last; attractiveness. Instead of dividing your efforts and striving to collect half a dozen different things at once, confine your collections to one certain line until that line is as complete as possible. Of course this does not mean that you should pass by and lose a specimen of one thing simply because you're looking for another — rare opportunities often come to the collector by chance; but keep your mind centered on the particular object in view and let others be side issues. There are few who can make a successful collection of a number of widely different objects, and it takes years of practice and a natural "collector's instinct" to accomplish it. The author was for many years a professional natural history collector. On my various trips and expeditions I invariably made one certain line of specimens my chief object and while "all was fish that came to my net," yet I found that I could accomplish far more in this way — and by keeping eyes and ears open — than by having no particular object in view and looking aimlessly for anything and everything. I have secured many a rare insect while hunting birds, many a valuable plant while seeking insects or reptiles; but in every case these were merely bits of luck and the result of eyes trained to note any unusual thing.

The collector who starts forth searching for minerals will have better success in collecting minerals than the fellow who goes out to collect anything that comes along, and the same is true with every other class of specimens. Don't be discouraged if the first few objects you obtain are poor or injured — don't discard them; but wait until you get better specimens to replace them. An imperfect or small specimen is far better than none at all and may serve to fill a gap in a series for a long time. Don't let a specimen pass merely because it's common; when collecting there is no time like the present — in a few months or even weeks the common thing may become rare and, even if it does not, the sooner you collect it and have done with it the better. After it is added to your collection it won't bother you any more and you can dismiss it from your thoughts once and for all.

Don't forget that the things common and uninteresting in your locality may be very rare in others and that such things may be traded to advantage, so always have duplicates on hand if possible. Even if you don't trade them, duplicates may come in handy at any time if you break, lose, or injure a specimen. Try to make your collections just as complete as possible ; if you collect stamps, endeavor to fill out sets of each country rather than to have a few of one and a few of another country; and if you collect plants, insects, or minerals, try and obtain a complete series of the species or varieties found in your neighborhood before giving much time to those from other districts. By "interest" I mean natural, human interest, educational interest, and popular interest combined. A specimen may be interesting as a curio and yet have no educational interest whatever, or it may have an educational interest and value and yet not interest one person in ten thousand who sees it. Many war relics and other things have a human interest from associations, and yet to one who does not know their history they may seem mere rags or "junk." So also

certain things have a popular interest and will attract every one who sees them, and yet, from an educational or scientific viewpoint, they may be worthless. Strive to combine these various interests in your collections and make your collections serve as many useful purposes as possible. Lots of things possess a great deal of real human interest once we learn something of them, and it is in thus bringing out the real interest in objects that the collector benefits mankind and that the collection becomes educational.

Of course every one should try to have his specimens as perfect as possible; but even if each object is faultless in this respect the collection may be so badly arranged, so incorrectly labeled or classified, or so unattractively displayed as to be imperfect as io THE BOY COLLECTOR'S HANDBOOK

a whole. Merely gathering or collecting the specimens is not the main thing; it's just as important to have the specimens properly and correctly labeled, neatly arranged, and well cared for as to get them in the first place. A mass of material thrown hodge-podge into a chest or drawers, and without labels or other data, is of mighty little value or interest. If a thing's worth collecting at all it's worth looking after, labeling, and classifying. It isn't necessary to be an expert in any line in order to classify and label your specimens — you can learn more about them by doing this than in any other way, and many a famous scientist of to-day learned his first lessons while gathering, identifying and labeling his boyhood collections.

There are many ways of identifying and classifying your collections. In the first place there are books treating of nearly every object that can be collected, and by referring to these you can usually identify your specimens and can learn much of value and interest in regard to them. Public museums are also very useful, and oftentimes you can more easily identify a specimen by comparing it with the museum collections than by reference to printed descriptions and illustrations. If, as sometimes

WHY AND WHAT TO COLLECT n

happens, you are unable to identify a specimen through either or both of these methods, the specimen itself or a duplicate — or even a sketch or photograph — may be sent to some well-known authority with a request for information. Nine times out of ten your request will be granted courteously and willingly, for there is a strong bond of sympathy and fellow-feeling between all collectors.

Have every specimen labeled and catalogued. In the case of stamps, autographs, and many other objects which are usually kept in books or portfolios, this is very simple, and, in fact, the position of a stamp or postcard in a book is in itself equivalent to a label.

Objects kept in drawers, cases, cabinets, jars, or any other situations should be very carefully labeled, however. It's an easy matter for a specimen to be misplaced and while you may remember it and know just what it is, where it came from, and all about its history, yet others will not, and a really rare specimen may for this reason become utterly worthless.

Whenever possible a specimen should bear a descriptive label, with the name (both English and scientific), date of collection (in the case of antiques, the date of its manufacture or use), how it was obtained, locality, sex (in the case of animate objects), and any interesting facts regarding its history, habits, etc. In addition to this label, the specimen should be numbered, either in ink or paint, and a similar number should be entered in a catalogue, followed by a full description of the specimen, with its name. This is very important, for if the large label is misplaced, lost, or detached, a reference to the catalogue will serve to set all doubts at rest.

In the case of very small or delicate objects it is often impossible, or at least difficult, to provide them with individual labels, and in such cases the number and catalogue description alone must be depended upon, although a label may, if desired, be placed in the box, tray, or drawer with the specimen.

Labeling and cataloguing may seem very small and unimportant matters, and beginners and amateurs often overlook their importance. This is a great mistake, for the value or interest of a collection depends to great extent upon the accuracy and care with which it is labeled and catalogued.

Arrangement is another important matter. Just what method you follow will depend a great deal upon the character of the collection, the object you have in view, and the number of specimens, as well as your own resources and good judgment. If you wish to exhibit your collections they should be arranged with this idea, whereas, if you collect for your own satisfaction and only show the specimens to a few favored friends, a very different arrangement may be followed. A great deal also depends upon the character of the specimens themselves. Some things, as for example rocks, fossils, shells, etc., require little care or protection and may be arranged in boxes, trays, cabinets, cases, drawers, or shelves, for there is little danger of their being injured by light, exposure, air, or dust. On the other hand, delicate specimens, such as butterflies, plants, flowers, etc., must be carefully protected from the dust, sun, and air, as well as from insect pests. Collections of antiques or relics, which include articles of hair, cloth, feathers, or other fabrics, must be carefully protected, for the moths and other insects, bright light, dry air, and dust are all to be guarded against.

If you have duplicates of any or all of your specimens you should invariably keep one set for display or exhibition and another for reserve, and then if anything happens to the exhibition specimen you will have the one held in reserve to take its place.

When arranging specimens for exhibition, try to follow out some definite system. If your collection consists of historical relics, arrange them as nearly as possible in the order of their age. If the collection is intended to show the development or evolution of a certain class of objects, arrange the specimens to show this. If the collection is of natural objects, such as plants, insects, marine life, minerals, etc., arrange the specimens in groups illustrating the various families, genera, species, etc., or else in groups to show the varieties or species found in certain localities.

Many interesting collections can be made of very simple, everyday things arranged and classified in such a way as to illustrate the various steps and processes of manufacture or preparation. Aside from the enhanced value which arrangement gives to a collection, is the question of attractiveness. This may seem of little importance and if you expect to keep your collections strictly private and never exhibit them, attractiveness is of no particular consequence. It is seldom indeed that a collector does this, however, and half the fun in collecting is in showing your collections to visitors and friends. A collection may seem very interesting and attractive to the owner and yet may fail to interest or attract others, merely because it is not attractively displayed or arranged. A dirty, dusty lot of specimens is never attractive nor interesting, no matter how valuable or rare the specimens may be. A collection of simple, common things, neatly labeled, well arranged, properly cared for, and displayed in orderly trays, drawers, or cabinets, is far more attractive and interesting than a disorderly, poorly labeled and carelessly arranged collection of rare or valuable things.

. Before you can commence identifying, labeling, or arranging your collections you must decide what to collect, and this is perhaps the most difficult task of all. In a broad way, everything may be divided into two great classes: man-made objects and natural objects. In the former are war and historical relics, antiques, Indian relics, coins, stamps, books, art objects, autographs, and many similar things. In the other class are woods, leaves, flowers, fruits, rocks and minerals, fossils, marine specimens, insects, birds, birds' eggs, etc. Many of the latter class of objects grade into the former, for a complete collection includes not only the true natural objects but the various articles or preparations made from them by man. Thus, in a mineral collection, articles made from the raw materials should be shown in order to illustrate their economic or industrial value and uses, and this is true also of plants, marine animals, and many other things. In the same way a collection of man-made objects is far more valuable and interesting if it includes specimens of the raw materials from which the specimens are made.

Certain objects in both of these great classes should be eliminated by the young collector, for various reasons. Thus, among the man-made objects, true antiques — such as furniture, armor, etc; objects of arts, such as paintings, statuary, carvings, etc. ; rare books and even autographs — should be avoided owing to their bulk, cost, or the danger of spurious imitations. So also, among natural objects, you should refrain from collecting birds, birds' eggs, and most animals. These are all very well for the larger museums and for advanced scientific collectors, professional ornithologists, and naturalists, for only by actually collecting the birds and their eggs and the animals can scientists teach us their value, habits, and many other matters. The young collector, however, seldom gives the world any additional knowledge of value and merely destroys life for the sake of gathering together a collection for his own amusement or benefit. It cannot be denied that collections of birds and birds' eggs are interesting and attractive; but with modern photography, collections of photographs of live birds and animals and birds' nests can be made, and these will serve every purpose of a collection of the real specimens. Moreover, far greater skill and knowledge is required to make a complete collection of bird photographs than to make a collection of the birds themselves, and such a collection is far less trouble, more lasting, and more easily arranged and exhibited than a collection of real birds or birds' eggs.

While we cannot afford to sacrifice the lives of any birds, yet with insects and marine life the case is entirely different. The great majority of our insects are injurious, and by collecting them we are really doing an excellent work and are benefiting our gardeners and agriculturists. Properly collected insects do not suffer, and to catch a butterfly, kill it instantly with benzine, and preserve it is far more humane than to crush the caterpillar, which devours our plants, underfoot. Sentimentalists may think with regret of killing butterflies, but they shudder with aversion at a big green "worm" and do not hesitate to step upon an injurious larva or to spray their plants with slow poisons, and yet the same ugly worm is only the butterfly in another form.

Neither is there any valid reason for not collecting marine animals. It is not half so cruel to preserve some low form of marine life in alcohol or formaldehyde as to open a live oyster and eat it or to drop a living lobster or crab in boiling water. Moreover, the marine animals are really less known to the average person than any other class of animal life and a great deal of real educational value may be learned by collecting them.

If for any reason you or your parents object to collecting such things as insects or marine animals, there are still plenty of other natural objects to collect. Plants are found everywhere, and good collections of plants, flowers, seeds, fruits, etc., are always interesting, instructive, and valuable. Rocks and minerals offer a splendid field, fossils are marvelous and fascinating, and last, but by no means least, is the wonderful world opened to us through the use of the microscope. A collection of microscopic objects is a never-ending source of interest, value, and education, and the boy with a microscope and a collection of slides can dwell for hours and days in a veritable fairyland of his own.

Chapter II

OF all natural objects probably the easiest and simplest to collect are rocks and minerals. There is scarcely an inhabited country in the world where rocks or minerals of some kind do not exist. Even on plains or prairies where rocks — as we commonly know them — are not found, there are sand, earth, clay, or similar things which are really included in the mineral class, and practically the only spots where some form of mineral is not found are swamp lands. By this I do not mean that a boy living on a plain or prairie can obtain a good collection of either rocks or minerals, and boys living where real rocks and minerals are scarce should select some other class of specimens for their collections.

In most places, however, rocks and minerals are quite common and the average boy will find little difficulty in making a large and interesting collection of minerals from his own neighborhood. The variety of rocks and minerals which may be found in one small locality is really remarkable, and until you commence to hunt for specimens you cannot realize how many there are. A single ledge or cliff of rock may, upon close inspection, reveal a score or more of minerals, while the bed of a brook or river may yield a hundred or more varieties of rock among the water-worn pebbles.