The home dressmakers' guide; containing knowledge found to be of inestinable value during a lifetime of experience in dressmaking and tailoring ...

Front matter

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CHAPTER I ^ Pages

Stitches -— : 1

Even Bastings; Uneven Bastings; Diagonal Bastings; Running Stitch; Overcasting; Tailor Tacks; Back Stitch; Slip Stitch; Hemming Stitch; Tacking; Cross- Stitch; Chain Stitch; Binding; French Seams; French Felled Seams; Flat Felled Seams; Single Welt Seams; Double Welt Seams; Slot Seams; Smocking; Arrowheads; Bound Button-hole.

CHAPTER 11

Measurements 15

How to Dress Well and Becomingly.

CHAPTER III Patterns— Skirt 20 How to Select a Skirt Pattern

Proportioning of measurement; Applying measurements. Altering Pattern When the Hip Curve is Large. When One Side Measure More Than the Other; Altering a Skirt Pattern for a High Abdomen; Altering a Six Gored Pattern ; A Seven Gored Skirt ; A Gathered Skirt ; A Draped Skirt ; How to Cut a High Waist Line ; Altering a Plaited Skirt Pattern; Trying on the Pattern; Designing Girdles and Yokes.

CHAPTER IV Patterns— Waist 32

How to Select a Waist Pattern; Purchasing a Waist Pattern; Applying Measurements to the Pattern; The Waist Line; The Bust Line; The Under Arm Alteration ; The Back Length Alteration ; The Armseye Alteration; The Neck Alteration; To Alter a Pattern for a Fitted Waist Lining ; Cutting a Drop Yoke.

CHAPTER V Patterns — Sleeve 43

How to Select a Sleeve Pattern; Applying Measurements ; The Bishop Sleeve Pattern ; The Length Alteration ; The Width Alteration ; Altering the Sleeve Pattern With Dart to the Elbow; The Width Alteration; The Length Alteration; Fullness for the Elbow; Sleeve Twisting; The Two-Piece Coat Sleeve; The Width Alteration ; The Length Alteration.

CHAPTER VI Pages

Cutting and Making Skirts 53

Threads for Basting; Pressing; Sponging and Shrinking; Setting Color; Placing the Pattern on the Cloth; The Grain of the Cloth; Bias; Allowing for Gathers; Matching Stripes or Plaids; Using a Pattern for a Plaited Skirt ; A Plaited Skirt Without a Pattern ; The Draped Skirt; Basting and Overcasting; The Placket; A Bound Placket; The Belting; Attaching the Skirt to the Belting ; Turning the Hem ; Basting the Hem ; Fullness in the Edge of the Hem ; Facing a Hem ; Sewing the Hem; Turning an Even Hem.

CHAPTER Vn Cutting and Making Blouses 70

Finishing the Front of a Blouse ; The Box Plait Front ; The Slot Seam Front; Attaching the Collar; Finishing the Yoke; A Drop Yoke; The Kimona Blouse; Blouse With Drop Shoulder and Surplus Front; Blouse With Gibson Plait; Cutting a Blouse from li/^ yards of 36- inch material; Cutting a Flat Sailor Collar; Cutting a Rolling Collar.

CHAPTER VHI Cutting and Making — Tlie One-Piece Dress 81

Lining the Dress ; Making the Lining ; Sewing the Seams and Attaching the Dress; Sewing the Sleeves into the Armseye ; Building the Gown ; A Crushed Girdle ; Marking the Finished Length; Making Sleeves; Preparing the Sleeve for the Cuff ; Attaching the Cuff ; Fininshing a Close Fitting Sleeve.

CHAPTER IX Cutting and Making— The Tailored Suit 90

Placing the Pattern on the Cloth; Cutting the Cloth; Marking With Tailor Tacks; Putting in Canvas; Basting the Cloth on the Canvas; The First Try-on; Hair Cloth; Binding the Hair Cloth; The Back of the Coat; The Roll of the Lapel; Padding the Lapel; The Tape; How to Cut the Under Collar ; Padding the Under Collar ; Attaching the Under Collar ; Putting on the Facing ; The Upper Collar ; Finishing the Hem.

CHAPTER X

Cutting and Making— The Tailored Suit— Continued 104

The Suit Coat Sleeve ; Basting and Making ; The Lining ; Putting in the Lining; Where to Place the Front Seam of a Sleeve in the Armseye; Attaching the Lining; Pressing; Making Butjton-holes ; Sewing on Buttons; The Amount of Cloth and Findings Required ; Pockets ; Draping.

Chapter 1 Stitches

How often I have heard women say: *'I would give a great deal to be able to sew nicely." And yet the ability to sew neatly, giving a workmanlike appearance to all seams, is not a gift but the result of painstaking effort.

Any woman, young or old, may possess this accomplishment if she will faithfully persist in her endeavor to sew evenly and neatly and not be satisfied with stitches taken ill a haphazard manner.

The appearance of the finished garment depends much upon the kind of stitches put into it. • AMONG the first and essential things the home dressmaker should become familiar with, upon taking up the actual work of dressmaking are the common stitches and seams; what they are termed and how they serve. Some of the most important ones follow :

Bastings

Bastings are temporary stitches put in to hold the fabric together until the finishing stitches can be made. Often in a vain attempt to save time, the home-sewer will substitute pins for bastings, or run up the seams upon the sewihg machine doing away entirely with any attempt at basting. This always results in loss of time in the end and invariably proves that ''haste makes waste."

Even Bastings

DIAGRAJM 1

Even Bastings, are longer than the running stitch, but are taken in the same manner. (See Diagram 1.) Do not take too long a stitch, if you do it is likely to slip and shove before the presser foot of your machine, causing endless difficulty. The even basting is the first stitch used in the construction of all garments and is used in all seams that are to be sewed with the sewing machine.

Uneven Bastings

Uneven bastings are made by taking two small stitches and one long one. (See Diagram 2.) The uneven basting is used w^hen basting two pieces of cloth together, to hold them in place while w^orking on the garment.

Diagonal Basting

Diagonal basting is always used when basting cloth on to the lining or canvass. The stitches are taken crosswise with the point of the needle toward you. You may w^ork from the right to the left or from the left to the right, which ever is the most convenient. These stitches may be taken any size according to where they are being used. (See Diagram 3).

Running Stitch

DIAGB.\»I 4

Running stitches are a succession of small stitches, the stitches and spaces in between being of equal length. (See Diagram 4.) -

Overcasting

Overcasting is used to finish the raw edges of a seam if you are not going to bind it. Starting at the right hand end of the cloth, work toward the left, smoothing the threads of the material down with the left thumb and finger. Overcast by taking one stitch at a tim.e, being careful not to draw the stitches too tight. (See Diagram 5.)

Tailor Tacks or Trace Threads

Tailor tacks or trace threads must be used if any garment is to be put together accurately. Having chalked a design upon one side of the folded cloth, tailor tacks, or tVace threads will mark both sides alike'. You may also lay your pattern on the two thicknesses of cloth and follow the design marked upon the pattern taking the tailor tacks through the paper and double cloth and thus marking both sides of the garment perfectly alike. Where two parts of a garment are to be joined together both should be plainlymarked with tailor tacks. Pockets, yokes, plaits, waist-line, and hip line should be outlined in this way. Where the hem is to be turned and wherever a mark for a guide is needed these tailor tacks should be employed.

Using a double basting thread, proceed to baste through both thicknesses of cloth, alternating with one long stitch and two short ones. (See Diagram 6.)

The long stitches may be an inch long and sufficiently loose to permit of a pencil or finger being slipped under them. Now cut through the middle of the long stitch, and separating the cloth slightly, clip the small stitches between the two pieces of cloth. You may now remove the paper pattern without tearing it and opening the cloth, you will find both sides marked alike.

Back Stitch

The back stiteh is used when making garments by hand. Seams sewed with a back stitch will be firmer and stronger and can be made to look like sewing machine stitching. (See Diagram 7.)

Knot your thread and bring your needle through from the under side of the cloth. Then take the stitch by putting the point of the needle in above the first hole and bringing it out below the first hole, thus bringing the first hole in the middle of the stitch. (See Diagram 7.)

Take each succeeding stitch back by putting the needle through the next to the last hole made and bringing it out below the last hole made by 'the needle. Take a small uniform stitch.

Slip Stitch or Blind Stitch diagra:vi 8

The slip stitch is used when hemming or sewing on facing or at any other part of the garment where stitches are to be made invisible. Knot the thread and bring the needle out from the crease of the fold of the hem, thus hiding the knot in the fold. Just catch a thread on the body of the cloth with the needle and run the needle back into the fold of the hem again hiding a long stitch in the crease of the fold and again bringing the needle out from the fold of the hem and just catching a thread of the body of the cloth. When the hem is pressed down the stitches are invisible. (See Diagram 8.)

When sewing on sheer material the best results are obtained by using a fine needle and, splitting the thread, use one strand only; When this is done the stitches are more easily made invisible.

Hemming Stitch

Diagram 9 shows a common hemming stitch. This stitch is used on any hem.

Tacking Stitch

The tacking stitch is used when putting the lining into the jacket or at any part of a garment where the cloth is just tacked together and not sewed firmly. The tacking stitch is a back stitch and a long stitch or two or three back stitches, one on top of the other, and then a long stitch. This makes a stronger tack. (See Diagram 10.)

Cross Stitch

The cross stitch is used in many places in the making and finishing of garments. It is used to finish seams and.

hems. It is also used in sewing the under collar on to the jacket. Begin at the left hand end of the seam and work :^om left to right. With the needle pointing to the left, (See Diagram 11,) take a short stitch at the top of the seam. Bring the needle down and toward the right and take another short stitch like the one taken at the top. This gives a long slanting, or diagonal stitch, between the two short stitches. Remembering to keep the needle pointing to the left, bring the needle up to the top of the seam and toward the right causing the second long diagonal stitch to cross the first, and take another short stitch. Working from left to right with the needle pointing toward the left you will have no difficulty with the cross stitch.

Chain Stitch

The chain stitch can be used to finish hems or seams and is always used when sewing on the right side of the cloth. It is also used in making pretty designs on belts, collars or the yokes of blouses. In making the chain stitch work from right to left. Knot the thread and bring the needle through from the wrong side of the cloth at the right hand end of the seam. Next form a loop with the thread (See Diagram 12) and take your stitch in the middle of the loop. Forming a second loop with the thread take the second stitch in the middle of the last loop at the same time forming a third loop. Continue to make stitches, each time throwing the thread in a loop and placing the needle back each time in the middle of the last loop stitch. Do not pull the thread tight as it will not make a nice looking chain if you do.

SEAMS

Binding Seams

It is very necessary to bind seams if you are to have a well finished garment. When seams are not bound they should be overcast. If you are going to use the straight ribbon binding you will find it much easier to sew on if you will fold it in the centre and crease it with a warm flat iron ; it will also be easier to get the centre of the ribbon on the edge of the seam. It is better to sew the straight ribbon binding on by hand using a small running stitch and sewing it on from the right side of the seam. A bias binding may be sewed on A^ith the sewing machine. (See Diagram 13.)

French Seams

French seams are used when making garments out of any sheer material such as crepes or voiles, and at any part of the garment where the seam can be seen through the material. French seams are desirable in blouses, dresses, childrens' clothes and lingerie — such as camisoles, combinations and gowns.

First sew the seam on the right side of the garment by hand, using a small running stitch. Do not sew on the exact seam line using the full depth of the seam allowance but sew outside of the seam line. Next trim the seam off close to the stitching and turn the seam to the wrong side of the garment. Then baste carefully on the exact seam line hiding the trimmed raw edges in the seam. (See Diagram IJ^.) Now sew the seam on the sewing machine. If the machine tension is tight and you are sewing on net or other thin material lay a piece of paper under the seam and sew through it, afterwards removing the paper. .

French Felled Seam

Sew the seam on the wrong side of the garment the full depth of the seam allowance using a small running stitch. Then trim off one side of the seam close to the stitching. If there is a bias and a straight side to the seam trim off the bias side. Next fold the remaining side of the seam over the one that has been trimmed off and sew it on the sewing machine. From one side it will look like a binding and from the other side the stitches only will show. This makes a nice finish for a seam. (See Diagram 15.)

Flat Felled Seam

Sew just a common seam on the wrong side of the garment with the sewing machine, sewing on the exact seam line. Then trim off one side of the seam close to the stitching and turn the remaining edge of the seam in as you would for a hem, covering the stitching and trimmed edge. Tress this down flat on the body of the garment and stitch right through with the sewing machine. This may be hemmed down by hand. (See Diagram 16.)

Sinirle Welt Seam

DIAGRAM i:

Sew a common seam on the wrong side of the garment with the sewing machine, sewing on the exact seam line. Press the seam flat on the wrong side of the garment using the entire seam allowance and baste it down carefully. Then turning the garment right side up put in one row of sewing machine stitching. This seam may be finished any desired width according to the prevailing style. (See Diagram 17.)

Double Welt Seam

Proceed in the same way as for the single welt seam putting two rows of sewing machine stitching on the right side of the garment. (See Diagram 18.)

Slot Seam

A slot seam is made by laying the two edges of the cloth together with the seams turned under reinforced beneath with another strip of cloth as shown in Diagram 19.

SLOT SEAM

Smocking

First decide on the design and determine the amount of fullness to be held in. Next mark with small dots, one-half inch apart, the depth of the tucks desired to hold in the fullness. (See Diagram 20.) Then placing the first two tucks together, sew them at the dots. Sew the first dots together taking two or three stitches to form a knot. Then slip the needle under on the wrong side of the cloth and skipping one dot join the tucks together at the third dot. Continue to sew at every other dot until the full length of the design is finished. Then bring up another tuck and sew it to the last tuck only and at the dots that were skipped. Place one tuck after another sewing only to the last one and at every other dot until the design is completed. (See Diagram 21.)

Arrow Head

ARROWHEADS are used considerably for trimming, finishing plaits, darts, ends of pockets and at many other places. They are made in the following way : First outline the size desired with the button hole twist or the embroidery silk you are going to use. This outline in the form of a triangle may be one-half inch wide at the base and one inch long at the sides. (See Diagram 22, No. 1.) Now bring the needle through from the wrong side of the cloth at the lower right hand corner and bring it up to the point and put it through to the wrong side again just at the left of the point of the triangle. Bring the needle through from the wrong side of the cloth just at the right of the point of the triangle and put it through to the wrong side again at the lower left hand corner of the outline. Continue in this manner until the outline is all filled in leaving only the two lower corners. (See No. 3, Diagram 22.)

Bound Button Hole

When a slash is made in a girdle, through which to put the ends, the slash can be finished like a bound button hole. Often a slash is made at the waist of a garment and the sash is brought through these slashes. They also can be finished in the same manner. At many places slits are made to run ends through, these all may be finished like a bound button hole. The first thing to do is to ascertain the size of the button hole required. This is obtained by placing the button to be used on the cloth and marking the diameter of the button with chalk on the right side and follow this line with small basting stitches, giving the length of the button hole on the under side of the cloth. The diameter of the button is the length required for the button hole. (See "A'', Diagram 23.)

Then place the piece of cloth to be used for the binding over the mark made for the diameter of the button. Have the right side of the cloth for the binding next to the right side of the cloth of the garment. Then mark the

length of the button hole on the wrong side of the binding by using small basting stitches, taking these stitches through both the cloth and the binding. (See "B'\ Diagram 23.)

Next, determine the width of the binding that is to show from the right side of the garment when the button hole is finished.

Then sew with the sewing machine a single row of stitching, one above and one below the mark made for the button hole and also at both ends. (See "C\ Diagram 23.)

The distance between the mark for the button hole and the rows of sewing machine stitching is the amount the binding will show. One-fourth of an inch between the two rows of sewing machine stitching will make a good looking binding. Now cut the button hole with the scissors following the marked length, but do not cut the button hole the entire length of the stitching, as that would spoil the button hole. Cut up to within one-fourth inch of each end and mitre from this line to each of the four corners. The corners are mitred by cutting with the scissors as shown at ''/)'' Diagram 23.

DIAGRAM 'S.i

The last proceedure is to pull the binding through the button hole to the wrong side of the garment. Turn the binding evenly over the edge of the button hole, being careful not to turn any of the body part of the button hole v^ith the binding. It is just the binding that is pulled through and turned over the edge of the button hole. None of the body part of the garment must be pulled through (See ''E" Diagram 23.)

Fasten the binding that has been pulled through down to the cloth of the garment on the wrong side. Do this neatly by hand. Do not put any sewing machine stitching on a bound button hole when it will show on the right side of a garment. Press the binding with a warm flat iron. When using sheer material and a slash is to be made for the sash or for trimming, hemstitching may be used instead of binding. When this is the case have the hemstitching the length desired for the slash and clip it in the centre as for picotting. This will look more dainty than binding.

Chapter II Measurements

The proper place at which to start to make a garment for yourself is at your own measurements. First take the necessary measurements correctly and then apply them to your pattern, altering your foundation to fit you, and you have robbed dressmaking of most of its annoyances. It will be readily understood that these measurements must be accurate and judgment used in taking them. If, for instance, you take a measurement too snugly, the garment will doubtless be too tight. It is better, however, to take measurements a little loose rather than too snugly, as it is easier trimming off than piecing on. It is also necessary to have an accurate tape measure. Test your tape carefully and if it is not correct do not use it, get a new one.

Fasten a tape around the natural waist of your model, for a waist line, from which to take measurements. This

may of course be dispensed with when you shall have become proficient in gauging with the eye.

C 1 o s ely following diagram 1, you will now proceed, writing down each measurement as you take it. 1. — For Neck Measure.

Measure around the base of the neck; that is, at the line where it joins the body. 2. — Shoulder.

Measure just back

of the crest of the

shoulder, from the

base of the neck to the

DIAGRAM 1 tip of the shoulder.

3. — AroKud Bust.

Place the tape measure around the largest part of the bust, close up under the arm and across the shoulder blades, in a straight line to the center of the back. Standing directly in the rear of your model, hold the union of the tape measure, that is, as you bring it together, firmly between the forefinger and thumb of the left hand, while with your right, thus freed, you run the forefinger* under the tape from back to front, to ascertain the proper amount of fullness required. This then gives you what is called the Bust Line, w^hich, with the Waist Line already determined, are important in the ascertainment of other measurements. 4. — The Front Measurement,

Is taken from the base of the neck in front down to the waist line.

5. — Length Under Arm.

From the armpit (not too high to fit overly snug when waist is completed; exercise a little judgment in this regard) straight down to the waist line. 6. — Length of Back.

From the bone at the base of the neck behind, straight down to the waist line. 7. — Around Armseye Measurement.

Starting from the tip of the shoulder, around under the arm and back to the tip of the shoulder. This armseye measurement should be neither too tight nor too loose. Use discretion to secure comfortable arm action. 8. — Sleeve from Shoulder to Elbow.

From the shoulder, with arm slightly bent, as in diagram 1, and from where the line for the armseye was taken, to the tip of the elbow. 9. — From Elbow to Wrist.

From the tip of the elbow, just taken, to the bone or lines of the wrist. In taking this bend the elbow slightly. 10. — Around Elbow.

Bend the arm slightly and take the measurement around the elbow. It will be noted that this measurement must be greater than if the arm had been held straight.

11. — Around Hand

Now holding the thumb straight inside of the hand, measure around the largest part of the hand.

12. — Inside Length.

With the arm extended at a height, in line with the shoulder, and pointing almost, but not quite, directly in front of the person, take the inside measurement from the body, where the line of the armseye was taken, to the waist line. This length, it will be noted, should be less than the combined outside measurements.

13.— Waist.

Take this measurement around the waist line, and as tightly as you desire the finished garment.

14. — Hip Measurement.

Next take the circumference at the largest part of the hips, and as loosely as desired in the finished garment.

15. — From Waist to Hip Line.

This measurement is taken at the side, from the waist line straight down to the hip line.

16. — Length of Front.

From the waist line measure directly in front, the distance to the floor.

17. — Right and Left Sides.

Right and left sides from waist line to floor.

18. — Back Length.

Lastly, from the waist line to the floor, directly in the back.

It is possible by standing before a mirror to take one's measurements following the above rules. By fastening a weight to your tape measure, while standing erect, you may easily take your own skirt length measurement, from the waist line to the floor.

NOTE : — In determining the length of the skirt when finished, subtract from these four length measurements the number of inches it is desired to have the skirt from the floor.

HOW TO DRESS WELL AND BECOMINGLY

I am now talking to the woman with a moderate income and yet finds it necessary to look well dressed.

First, decide how much you can spend on your gown. It may be that you can only have one gown in a year. If so, my advice is, and always has been, to have the best material you can afford.

Next, choose a medium style, and have it well made. I have known women who always looked well dressed and yet they had but one tailored suit, one becoming afternoon or evening gown and a few good blouses, in a year ; in fact, I have known somfe of them who wear their tailored suit two or three years. I have heard these women say, "I cannot wear my suit out ; it is just as good as the day it was made." The reason for this was, good material, medium style and well made.

If you have never made a study of the lines of your own body, or the shape of your face and the color of your hair and eyes, it will be well for you to begin now, because these have much to do with the style of your gown and the colors you should wear.

It is a pity, with the beautiful colorings and variety of style we have at the present day, for any woman to be unbecomingly dressed; for, do you know, it matters not whether it is calico or silk, if the colors and design are becoming you will look well dressed.

The long, thin face should never, never wear a pointed or a V yoke ; not even a V opening in the blouse ; they make the face look just as long again. The long, thin face should always select a round or square yoke, a round or square collar, or, if style will permit, a standing collar as high as can be comfortably worn.

Just imagine, if you can, a woman with a large round face or square jaw wearing a square or round yoke. Her face would look more than ever broad and masculine. She must have the V yokes and pointed vests. If she wears a collar it should be pointed. If a standing collar is worn it must be small. A bit of lace wired at the back of the neck is a good suggestion.

"Oh!" but you will say, **I have no imagination; I cannot see myself dressed up like the picture." If you cannot see yourself in the picture, begin to study in this way: When you meet women who appeal to you as being well dressed, and they are tall and slender, or short and stout, as you are, recognize the perfect lines that make the gown becoming. Notice the artistic drape and say to yourself: 'That lady is just about my size ; her coloring is like mine ; I would look well in a gown like that." I do not mean for you to copy, but to study others that you may develop originality, and this well help you. You will find it a very interesting study and you will soon be surprised how easily you can plan a becoming gown for yourself. Colors

Colors also play an important part. Let us talk about the color of your hair and eyes and suggest what would be becoming. "Oh, dear!" I can hear some one say, "I suppose my next gown will be blue; I have worn blue all my life. I would so like to have a change, but I do not know what color to choose."