Text book with diagrams and illustrations embodying the basic principles of designing, reproducing and garment cutting

Introduction

After years given to study and after a wide and successful experience as a teacher and a lifetime spent in dressmaking and ladies' tailoring as a business, I have found a great need for a simple and practical system of reproducing, cutting and constructing garments.

I have found the greatest need of the professional dressmaker is a system that would enable her to build a garment from the actual measurements of the individual and yet be simple enough for the home dressmaker, — a system whereby the young woman in her home could learn to create, or reproduce, and make her own gowns, carrying out her oivn individuality, giving her gowns a distinction and a touch of real personality that she could not secure in any other way.

A system that would not only enable her to have a goivn that would be different from the ordinary, but would develop her natural talent and impart a knowledge, not from theory, but from practical experience of what is required to cut a perfect foundation from which a perfect garment may be constructed.

These needs are met and will be found in the simple, adjustable drafting device which I have the pleasure of giving to the women of the world. May it be an everlasting joy and satisfaction to every one that uses it.

-M \%~Llf

Foundation Principles

The foundation underlying every achievement must be flawless if the finished work is to reach perfection.

This is true of every effort. Sure and lasting success must be built upon a true and solid foundation.

Herein lies the failure of many professional as well as home dressmakers.

One may have some knowledge of the art of construction and yet fail from an imperfect mastery of the foundation principles ; and though success does come it will cost dearly in unnecessary effort.

The foundation principles that have been worked out in these chapters will readily be seen to be the foundation upon which all styles of garments are built.

Styles change, but the principles never change; the foundation is always the same.

When the foundation for a gown is cut to fit the individual for whom the gown is being constructed, no difficulty is experienced in making a perfect fitting garment. The success lies in the foundation.

On these pages the principles are worked out and given in a manner that will enable the maker of the garment, with a little study, to go about her work in a masterly fashion, first making the foundation the size of the individual by actual measurement ; second, by reproducing, accurately and in their correct position, every line and curve of the design upon the individual ; and all this with the least amount of effort and with the satisfaction of being master of the art you have chosen and the profession you represent.

Table Of Contents

MEASUREMENTS 7 . g

Measurement for Practice . .. 13

ADJUSTING THE DRAFTING DEVICE

Chapter I Taking Measurements

The initial step in the art of dresscutting and designing, and one upon which depends, to a large extent, the degree of success attained, is the system of taking measurements.

In so much as it is seldom necessary, under this system, to make a paper pattern before cutting the cloth, and only requires that the Adjustable Drafting Device be placed directly upon the material and chalked or traced, ready for the shears, it is essential that measurements be most precise. The device scales to the fraction of inches; no use for a tape measure except in one or two cases, or to verify measurements. The beginner is advised to do this. See that your tape is an accurate one.

Fasten a cord around the natural waist of your model, for a waist line, from which to take

measurements. This may of course be dispensed with when you shall have become proficient in gauging with the eye.

Closely following diagram 1, you will now proceed, writing down each measurement as you take it, upon the blank especially provided for the purpose.

1. — For Neck Measure.

Measure around the base of the neck; that is, at the line where it joins the body.

2. — Bust Point Measure.

From the projecting bone at the base of the neck in back, over the shoulder and down to the bust line in front.

Measure just back of the crest of the shoulder, from the base of the neck to the tip of the shoulder.

4. — Around Bust.

Place the tape measure around the largest part of the bust, close up under the arm and across the shoulder blades, in a straight line to the center of the back. Standing directly in the rear of your model, hold the union of the tape measure, that is, as you bring it together, firmly between the forefinger and thumb of the left hand, while with your right, thus freed, you run the forefinger under the tape from back to front, to ascertain the proper amount of fullness required. This then gives you what is called the Bust Line, which, with the Waist Line already determined, are important in the ascertainment of other measurements.

5. — The Front Measurement.

Is taken from the base of the neck in front down to the waist line. 6. — Length Under Arm.

From the armpit (not too high to fit overly snug when waist is completed; exercise a little judgment in this regard) straight down to the waist line.

From the bone at the base of the neck behind, straight down to the waist line.

Diagram 1. — Taking measurements.

8. — Around Armseye Measurement.

Starting from the tip of the shoulder, around under the arm and back to the tip of the shoulder. This armseye measurement should be neither too tight nor too loose. Use discretion to secure comfortable arm action.

9. — Sleeve from Shoulder to Elbow.

From the shoulder, with arm slightly bent, as in diagram 1, and from where the line for the armseye was taken, to the tip of the elbow.

10. — From Elbow to Wrist.

From the tip of the elbow, just taken, to the bone or lines of the wrist. In taking this bend the elbow slightly.

1 1. — Around Elboiv.

Bend the arm slightly and take the measurement around the elbow. It will be noted that this measurement must be greater than if the arm had been held straight.

12. — Around Hand.

Now holding the thumb straight inside of the hand, measure around the largest part of the hand.

13. — Inside Length.

With the arm extended at a height, in line with the shoulder, and pointing almost, but not quite, directly in front of the person, take the inside measurement from the body, where the line of the armseye was taken, to the wrist line. This length, it will be noted, should be less than the combined outside measurements.

Take this measurement around the waist line, and as tightly as you desire the finished garment.

15. — Hip Measurement.

Next take the circumference at the largest part of the hips, and as loosely as desired in the finished garment.

16. — From Waist to Hip Line.

This measurement is taken directly in front, from the waist line straight down to the hip line. 17. — Length of Front.

From the waist line measure directly in front, the distance to the floor. 18. — Right and Left Sides.

Right and left sides from waist line to floor. 19.— Back Length.

Lastly, from the waist line to the floor, directly in the back.

It is possible by studying before a mirror to take one's own measurements by following the above rules and fastening a weight to your tape measure, while standing erect, you may easily take your own skirt length measurement, from the waist line to the floor.

NOTE : — In determining the length of the skirt when finished, subtract from these four length measurements the number of inches it is desired to have the skirt from the floor.

Chapter II Adjusting To Measurements

Upon your table or other flat surface, assemble the various parts of the Adjustable Drafting Device, pertaining to the waist. The five component parts of which are styled and numbered respectively as follows: Center Front (Diagram 1), Side Front Section (Diagram 1), Side Back Section (Diagram 2), Center Back (Diagram 2), and Sleeve (Diagram 3).

Upon each of these divisions you will note the name of its section, to aid in identification; also observe the scale of inches on each bar or groove, where adjustment to size is to be made.

Although, on pages 7 and 8, you familiarized yourself thoroughly with the procedure of taking measurements, and have those of yourself or model ready for use; however, lay these aside until we have laid out the Device to several different sizes to assure a complete understanding of the adjustments.

The value of this practice work will be easily apparent, in that you arc thus given a thorough working knowledge, as a foundation, in making adjustments and arranging the device to correspond with the multitudinous shapes and measurements which in your future work 5011 may anticipate.

By following the instructions carefully and referring to the illustrations, you will experience no difficulty in attaining the right results from these measurements, nor of those that are to follow.

Remember this is a mechanical device that works with utmost precision. It matters not what shape the body has been subjected to by nature; if your measurements are accurately taken, and the adjustments as accurately made, your finished pattern will be a perfect fit.

So learn the theoretical use of the device thoroughly; understand each line, and how each section should look to be in the proper position, and all needful knowledge will follow with surprising ease.

We will, therefore, take for consideration the medium size, the measurements of which we will assume to be as follows:

Length under arm 8" Elbow to wrist 11"

Length of back 15" Around the elbow 13"

Around armseye 16" Length inside arm 17)/"

Waist 28" Around the hand 9"

Length of front 15" Shoulder to elbow 12"

Center Front Section

Place this section, Diagram 1, in front of you, with the measurements for the above medium model at your left, and begin to make adjustments as follows: Set the shoulder bar at 6" (See C, Diagram 1). [Note — This mark (") after a figure will hereafter mean inches.] Then set the neck adjustment at the center front to 14", as shown by A, Diagram 1. Next, the shoulder bar on the neck at 14" (B, Diagram 1), always setting to the edge indicated by the arrow. Note very carefully Diagram 4. In that, you must observe that the adjustment is made on the outside edge, where you will trace your outline, and the figure to which you are setting must always be in the clear. Get this firmly in your mind, for an error in this regard will cause you annoyance, and there need be none.

Now, ere we proceed further with the Front Section, place the Center Back Section (See Diagram 2) also before you, and set the neck at 14". (See O, Diagram 2.) Then taking your tape, ascertain the length of the arc X-Y, as shown in Diagram 2. In this model, that arc measures 2^2 ". Place the tape on the Center Front Section, as shown in Diagram 1, in such manner that the measurement 2j/2" is added to and becomes a continuation of the neck (See Diagram 1), and having loosened all adjustment screws below the neck, that all bars may slide easily, raise or lower the bust line until the desired length from back of neck X to bust point O, which in this instance is 14", is registered in the Groove of the bust line bar, as at O, Diagram 1. Tighten all four adjustment screws.

As shown in Diagram 1, the bust line bar should be set at right angles to the center front. This, when completed, gives you by the first act the depth of front from neck to bust line, A-M, and by

Neck

14"

Back of neck to bust line...

Shoulder

. 14" 6"

Around bust

38"

the second, the proper angle to the center front. Then set at D, Diagram 1, to bust size 38" and make sure that all screws above the bust line are well tightened.

It is necessary now to complete the length of the front A-N, which in this model is 15". You will note that in adjusting your bust line bar, at right angles to the center front, it automatically gave you the upper or neck to bust line measurement A-M. It only requires that you raise or lower the waist line bar that the measurement at F (See Diagram 1), added to that already secured above, gives a total equal to your length of front measurement, in this instance 15". Verify this with your tape measure. Or you may use your tape measure to secure it in the first place. It is only necessary that the length from A to N be 15", however you get it.

Set the waist line bar at 28" (See E, Diagram 1) and with the added injunction, that the waist line bar is to be parallel to the bust line bar, tighten all screws top and bottom and you have completed this section.

Side Front Section

Now place the side front section close up to the center front section, with the shoulder bar of the side front section on a continuous line with the shoulder bar of the center front section, as shown in Diagram 1. Adjust the shoulder bar to 6" (shoulder measurement). See L, Diagram 1.

Raise or lower the armseye bar until you have it set at 16" (armseye measurement). See J, Diagram 1. This must also be done at K, Diagram 1, setting it at 16".

Tighten all nuts as adjustments are made.

Next get the length from the shoulder to the bust line. To do this, loosen the screws on the front of the side front section between the shoulder and bust line and raise or lower the bust line bar until the length from the shoulder to the bust line corresponds with the center front section, that is, C-S must be equal in length to C-D.

Tighten the remaining screws above the bust line. Follow this by setting the bust line bar at 38".

See G, Diagram 1. Then adjust Diagram 1.— Center front and side front sections set to (he undw arm of sjde length meas .

measurement.

urement to 8". See M, Diagram 1. Set the waist line bar at 28" (waist measurement) (See H, Diagram 1 ) , and securely tighten the screws.

Then, in the same manner as set forth above, raise or lower the waist line until the length S-H side front section corresponds with D-E of the center front section. See Diagram 1.

Note carefully, that you may always remember, how this is done, and set the completed sections aside.

Side Back Section

Set the shoulder at 6" (shoulder measurement). See A, Diagram 2.

Then, as in the side front section, raise or lower the upper armseye bars and the lower, respectively, to 16" (armseye measurement. See B and C, Diagram 2. This determines the bust line bar across the shoulder blades. The bust line bar should be at right angles to the side. Place the bust line bar (See D, Diagram 2) at 38" (bust measurement) and the waist line bar (See F, Diagram 2) at 28" (waist measurement).

The under arm adjustment should be made at E ( See Diagram 2) to 8" under arm measurement.

We must now leave this section, with length D-F undetermined (See D-F, Diagram 2) until we have completed the center back section.

Center Back Section

Now place the center back section close up to the side back section with the shoulder bars of the center back section on a continuous line with the shoulder bar of the side back section, as shown in Diagram 2.

Diagram 2. — Side back and center back sections set to measurement.

The next adjustment at O, Diagram 2, having been made to determine the bust line on the center front section, it is not necessary to disarrange it. Set the shoulder bar at 6" (shoulder measurement). See J, Diagram 2. Next, adjust the bust line bar to 38" (See K, Diagram 2) and the waist line bar to 28", the given waist measurement. See M, Diagram 2.

Now having placed the shoulder bars of the two sections so they form a straight and unbroken line (See Diagram 2), loosen the four screws above the bust line, and holding the shoulder bars securely with the left hand, raise or lower the bust line bar until the length J-K, back section, corresponds with the length A-D, side back section, and forms a straight and continuous bust line. See Diagram 2. Tighten the screws. This adjustment also gives the upper measurement of the center back at G; therefore, raise or lower the waist line bar to give a total back length measurement of 15". See adjustment H, Diagram 2. Adjust the waist line bar so it is parallel with the bust line bar and tighten the screws.

Now, in a manner similar to that used in determining S-H, Diagram 1, raise or lower the waist line bar in the side back section until D-F and K-M correspond, and are of equal length. See that waist line bars are continuous. Tighten all screws of both sections, which are thereby completed. Sleeve

Before starting, loosen all adjustment screws, then, at the top of the sleeve, make the adjustment for the upper and under sleeve to armseye measurement, which in this instance is 16", A and A, Diagram 3. Following this, set the shoulder to elbow bar (B, Diagram 3), at 12" (as in given measurements). From elbow to wrist must be 11". (See C, Diagram 3, as also in given measurements.)

For around the elbow, set both upper and under adjustments (D and D, Diagram 3) at 13", that is, setting both the outer edge of the under sleeve and the elbow bar of the upper sleeve, at 13" (elbow measurement). Around the hand, upper and under sleeve adjustments (E and E, Diagram 3) to 9".

Now lay the Sleeve Device in a. position, causing the center line X-N and the elbow bar M-N to be at perfect right angles to each other. The corner of your table will aid in doing this correctly. Also be sure that the corners (R and S, Diagram 3) are lined up properly and even.

As in both center front and center back sections, this lining up of outer line X-N and the elbow bar M-N gives the upper sleeve measurement, from shoulder to elbow bar, at the front of the device. See F, Diagram 3.

It becomes necessary, therefore, to raise or lower part of the sleeve, so that the aggregate measurements will equal the given inside length of 173/2". This adjustment takes place at G, Diagram 3.

Diagram 3. — Setting the sleeve device to measurement.

PRACTICE WORK

Three other and complete sets of measurements follow, to which you will adjust the Drafting Device, with the same degree of diligence and care as in the one just completed. This is the foundation work for the entire system of dresscutting, except for skirts, which will be given in the following chapters.

Turn back to the beginning of the subject of adjustment, and substitute these measurements, each in turn. At the completion of which you will be sufficiently practiced and experienced to take the more advanced and actual work.

No. 2

Neck W/ 2 "

Back of neck to bust point 14J/"

Around the bust 40"

Length under arm 7^"

Around armseye 17"

Shoulder to elbow 13"

Elbow to wrist 12"

Around elbow 12"

Length inside arm 17"

Around the hand 8j^"

Around waist 28"

No. 3

Neck 15"

Back of neck to bust point 15 x /i"

Around the bust 42"

Length under arm 9"

Around armseye 18"

Shoulder to elbow 13"

Elbow to wrist 1054"

Around elbow 13"

Length inside arm ISV/'

Around the hand 9"

Around waist 30"

You^ill {pace ihe Outside >6 of your sections rsfor set your adju\tmen±s to -the Outer and never to ihe INNER EDGE (See arYtxfj)

Let the nurnberset to, be in the clean Example above, is set io6".

No. 4

Neck 16"

Back of neck to bust point \5V 2 "

Around the bust 48"

Length under arm 8"

Armseye 19"

Shoulder to elbow 12"

Around waist 36"

Elbow to wrist 10"

Around elbow 15"

Length inside arm XlVi"

Around hand 9"

Chapter III Dress Linings

Step by step, we have become familiar with the adjustments of the Drafting Device to measurements, so now we are qualified to draft a plain French lining.

Begin by setting the Drafting Device to the 38 size, with which we have been practicing. Front Section

Place the center front section upon the paper, muslin or whatever material you may use for the purpose, and far enough back from the edge, in front, to provide a sufficient hem. Two inches is a good allowance. Now trace all around the outside edge, allowing a one-inch seam on the shoulder, half an

inch at the neck and at the side, and two inches below the waist line. See Diagram 2. Mark the bust point and waist line and carefully cut out the resultant section.

Side Front

As for the front, place the side front section on the drafting material, and trace all around the outside edge, allowing one-inch seam on the shoulder and under the arm, half an inch at the armseye and in front.

Mark bust point and waist line as before, and allow two inches below the waist line. Carefully cut out your section.

See Diagram 2.

-French lining.

Side Back

Place the Device on the drafting material as in the two former instances, and trace all around the outside. Mark sufficient allowance for a one-inch seam on the shoulder, and under the arm, and half an inch on the back, and allow two inches below the waist line.

Mark the bust line over the shoulder blade, and also the waist line, allowing two inches, as before, below the waist line. Proceed to cut out the section. See Diagram 2. Back Section

Proceed as for the other sections, tracing all around the outside edge, but allowing a one-inch seam on the shoulder, half an inch at the back of the neck, and a like seam at the center back and side.

Mark the bust line over the back and waist line in its proper location, and complete your cutting.

Diagram 2. — The four sections of the French lining. (14)

Plain Lining With One Dart

You may use your own measurements or the measurements of your model for this lining.

Place the front section on the paper, two inches back from the edge for hem allowance. Then the side front close up to the front section, from shoulder to bust point, as in Diagram 3. Trace all around the outside, and mark both the bust point and waist line.

Chalk in the outline between the center front and side front sections, thus allowing for a dart, as in Diagram 4.

Also, allow two inches below the waist

Diagram 3 Drafting device set to measurement for a J!" 6 ' and / ou are read y t0 cut See

plain lining with darts. Diagram 4.

Back

Place the center back section on the edge of the paper, or on the fold of your lining. You will, of course, have observed that there is no seam in the back of a plain lining.

Then place the side back section beside the back section, and close up, from shoulder to bust line. See Diagram 3. Trace all around the outside, allowing a half-inch seam on the back of the neck, and one-inch seams on the shoulder and under the arm.

Also trace between the back and side back sections, from the waist line to the bust line, as in Diagram 4, leaving the space in between for a dart. Indicate both bust point and waist line, and allow two inches below the waist line. Cut carefully. See Diagram 4.

MATERIAL SUITABLE FOR LININGS

For the present style of gowns it is only necessary to have some thin material, upon which to build the gown, such, for instance, as bobinette, thin lining lawn or thin silk, conforming with the material that we are using in the gown.

Diagram 4. — Lining with darts, traced and. ready to cut.

Diagram 4. — Lining with darts.

How to Bone a Seam in the Lining

When the style of garment requires a heavy, strong lining and boning, the soft feather bone may be sewed on with the machine, resulting in a much stronger seam than was procured by the fancy stitches we formerly employed.

Always hold the bone slightly looser than the seam, or, to be more explicit, stretch the seam onto the bone. This will insure a nice, smooth waist line.

To Finish Seams on the Lining

Bind with a seam binding, or stitch flat in a French welt seam. See Diagram X, page 18. Then after the seam has been sewed with the machine, trim off one side of it with the shears, and fold in the other edge of the seam, that is, the one not trimmed, over the one that has been trimmed, as in Diagram X, on page 18, and baste down flat, completing the stitch with the machine.

When fitting a blouse, never cut out the arm hole or neck, more than that allowed by your pattern. Snip the cloth a bit when it feels tight, and later, before attaching the collar or sleeve, trim out what is necessary.

How to Sew Hooks and Eyes on a Lining

Hooks must always be sewed on to the right side and eyes on the left. Sew the hooks back from the edge of the lining about a quarter of an inch; with the spacing between each, one and one-half inch. This will give sufficient strength to the lining.

When the hooks have all been sewed on, turn the edge of the lining back, over the ends of the hooks, where thread stitches appear, and hem down evenly. This will make a neat finish.

Sew the eyes on the wrong side of the edge, with just enough of projection to catch the hooks. Then turn the edge of the lining over the eyes where the threads show.

Sewing a Shield Protector Into the Armhole

Sew in four places; just through the binding, but with care, lest the rubber is punctured. This would permit moisture to penetrate through to the gown.

Then sew the part that goes in side of the sleeve to the seam of the sleeve ; the outside to the under arm seam of the blouse, and, the other two ends also to the seam of the sleeve, just stitching through the binding and seam of the sleeve.

Again a word of caution: Do not get the shield tighter than the sleeve seam, or you will find you have made the armhole both tight and uncomfortable.

Chapter IV Blouses

Cutting and Making

One of the most essential adjuncts of a woman's wardrobe is her blouse. If she has a few good looking blouses to wear with her Tailored skirt, she will at all times look well dressed.

There is such a variety of styles at present too, and such a wonderful assortment of materials from which to select, that no woman need be without.

Since the hemstitching machine has come into vogue, for finishing the seams, and adding much to the trimming, the problem of blouse expense and making, has to a great extent become solved.

After having become familiar, therefore, with the adjustment features of the Drafting Device, and with setting it to measurements as given in the practice work, you will substitute your own measurements for those assumed, and set the Device accordingly.

BLOUSE WITH FLAT SAILOR COLLAR

Place the center front section upon the cloth, and far enough back from the edge, to allow for hem, any width you may desire, two inches or more.

Then place the side front section beside the center front, as shown clearly in Diagram 2. These outlined as they are, would give you a tight lining. Remember that the Adjustable Drafting Device is set to individual measurements, you must learn to make adequate allowance for whatever fullness is needed to make the blouse fit loosely.

Diagram 1. — Plain blouse with flat sailor collar.

We must also consider the size of the model, in that the blouse designed for a tall, slender woman, will require more fullness than the one for a short, stout one.

Chalk in the center front line, neck and shoulders.

Place a mark out from the armseye a half to one inch. (See A, Diagram 2), and from the waist line XVz to 2J/2 inches, (See B, Diagram 2).

Diagram 2. — Plain blouse.

Then move the side front section to the new size, thus determined, and mark armseye, under arm and waist line- allowing 3 inches below the waist line for looseness and fullness. Also mark off an inch seam on the shoulder and under the arm; half inch seams on neck and at armseye. See D.agram 2.

Likewise place the center back and side back sections together, with the center back upon the fold of the cloth. Outline the neck and shoulder, and make the same allowance under the arm, and at the waist, as that given at A and B, on the front just described, and move the side back section over to those new points. Mark the armseye under arm line and waist line also allowing 3 inches below the waist line, as before; one inch seems at shoulder and under arm; half inch seams at neck and armseye. See Diagram 2. ,_/