Incidents in White Mountain history

Front matter

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J r - o

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Preface

Almost invariably the question is asked me, on an introduction to a stranger, " Are you a connection of the family destroyed at the White Mountains?" and, on learning that I am, the question is almost certain to follow, "What were the facts in regard to their destruction?"

The frequency of the inquiry, and the apparent interest with which the narration of that fearful scene has been listened to, have led me to suppose that a particular account of that terrible storm, and the destruction of my brother's family, would be interesting to the public. Travellers have long needed a Book of the Mountains ; and so pressingly have I been urged to undertake such a book, that the above fact, the abundance of material, and the thought that I might benefit myself, and supply an existing want, has induced me to undertake the task. How I have succeeded others will judge. It was not undertaken as" a literary effort, but a simple narration of facts. Are they intelligible ? is my only inquiry. When I commenced, there was no book on the White Mountains, save a small work by Mrs. Craw- 1*

VI PREFACE.

ford, widow of the late Ethan A. Crawford. That was out of print, and had been so for years. When my manuscript was nearly completed, a small book on the White Mountains came out, by Mr. John H. Spaulding ; but it does Hot conflict with mine.

I am under great obligations to the Rev. Daniel Goodhue, formerly of Gilead, Me., now of Andover, N. H., for the large amount of matter which he furnished me concerning the history of the eastern side of the mountains. Joel Winch, Esq., of Bethlehem, has also my hearty thanks for matter furnished by him. The kindness of the Hon. N. B. Baker, of Concord; E. J. Lane, Esq., of Dover; B. B. French, Esq., Washington, D. C. ; Gen. Samuel Fessenden, of Portland; James Willey, Esq., of Conway; Rev. Samuel Souther, of Fryburg, and others, who have assisted me with books and material, is gratefully remembered. My son, Mr. S. T. B. Willey, has also been of great assistance to me in arranging and writing much of the book. B G W.

Chapter I The Mountain's

The extent and location of tbe mountains. — Their height and the great distance at which they are seen. — The Indian names. — The origin of these names. — Dr. Belknap's description. — The early visitors. — Vines' and Gorge's visit. — Josselyn's account of his visit. — The central group of mountains. — Heights of different summits. — Gate of the Notch. — Notch. — Mount Webster. — Giant's Grave. — View from Giant's Grave. — The tops of the mountains. — The foliage on their sides. — The vegetation on the higher summits. — The shadows of clouds. — Insects on the mountains. — Birds. — The dead trees. — The mountains during a storm — as seen by moonlight — as seen in winter. — The sides. — View from the summit of Mount Washington. — View at sunrise. — Indian tradition, 13

Chapter II. Mountains Continued

The many objects of interest. — The great gulf. — Oakes' gulf. — Tuckerman's ravine. — Snow cavern. — Source of the many springs on the mountains. — Saco and Merrimac rivers. — Ellis and Peabody rivers. — Cascades. — Silver cascades. — The flume. — The devil's den. — Crystal falls. — Glen Ellis falls. — Ammonoosuc. — Falls of the Ammonoosuc. — Franconia mountains. — Mount Lafayette. — Eagle cliff. — Cannon mount. — Old Man of the Mountains. — Profile lake. — Optical illusions from Cannon mount. — Echo lake. — The basin. — The flume. — The pool. — Narrow escape from a fall into the pool, 28

Chapter III. The Indians

The Uncertainty of the many traditions. — The superstitions of the Indians. — Pr«bable cause of thoso superstitions. — Tradition of a flood. — Great treasures of gold and gems. — Search for treasures. — The particular tribes inhab-

VIII CONTENTS.

iting the mountains. — Indian relics in Conway — In Ossipee — in Fryburg — The Sokokis. — Their destruction by the pestilence. — Account of Vines of his visit to them. — Squando. — Death of his child. — Assacumbuit. — Visit to France. — Destruction of Haverhill. — Polan. — Vhittier's verses on his burial. — Chocorua. — His curse. — Anasagunticooks. — Their chiefs. — Hon. Enoch Lincoln's interest in Indians of this region. — Visit of Gov. Lincoln to Natalluck. — Indian myth. — The little Indian infant. — Curious marriage custom, 42

Chapter IV. Coos County

Coos as a farming county. — The opinion of Hon. Isaac Hill. — Dr. Dwight's account of the climate. — The many and peculiar shapes of towns. — Kilkenny. — Pilot and AVillard mountains. — Story of AVillard and his dog. — Randolph. — Extensive views from Randolph. — Ascent of Mount Jefferson. — Great danger in a storm. — View from Jefferson. — Jefferson. — Beautiful situation of Jefferson. — Brothers Glines. — Colonel Whipple. — His yearly visit to Portsmouth. — Story illustrating his care of his townsmen. — His capture by the Indians, and escape. — Mr. Gotham. — The importance of the discovery of the Notch. — Nash's discovery of the pass. — Gov. AVentworth. — Getting a horse through the defile. — Sawyer. — "Sawyer's Rock." — Mountain carriages. — Barrel of tobacco. — Barrel of ruin.-r- Cutting the road through tho Notch. — Hart's location, 58

Chapter V. Early Settlers

Early settlement of tho locations. — Capt. Rosebrook. — Monadnuc. — Mrs. Roscbrook. — Scarcity of salt. — Great crops. — Removal from Monadnuc- Scttlement at Guildhall. — Mrs. Rosebrook's adventure with the Indians. — Removal to Nash and Sawyer's location. — Difficulty of finding his house in tho drifts of snow. — "Want of provisions. — His energy. — Cancer. — His death. — Ethan Allen Crawford, tho giant of the mountains — His early youth. — Hardships. — The treacherous servant, .75

Chapter VI

ETHAN A. CRAWFORD.

Mr. Crawford's impressivo manner of story-telling. — The burning of his buildings. — His energy in repairing his losses. — His labors as a guide on to the mountains. — The difficulty formerly of reaching the mountains. — Story illustrating difficulty of travelling in those days. — Present modes of reaching mountains. — First ascent of the mountains. — Party of students from Fry-

CONTENTS. IX

burg. — Ease of ascending now. — First bridle-path. — Ethan's severe wound.

— Granny Stalbard. — Carriage-road from Glen House. — Love of Hunting.— The gray cat. — Adventures with them. — Lassos and captures one with birch poles. — Wolves. — His annoyance and discomfiture by them. — Bear stories.

— Catching the cub. — Capture of a full-grown bear, • .... 83

Chapter VII. The Crawford Family

Mr. Crawford's early death. — A remarkable man. — The Crawford family. — Abel Crawford. — Mrs. Crawford. — Her bravery during the night of the slides. — "Crawford House." — Death of Mr. Strickland on the mountains. — Danger of ascending mountains without guide. — Party of students lost on mountains. — Nancy's brook. — Story of Nancy. — Superstitions connected with the spot where she was found. — Owl story. — Beautiful auroral display at the Notch, 95

Chapter VIII. The Slides

The effect of the turnpike upon travel through the Notch. — Coos teamsters. — Pleasure travel. — Want of public houses. — The first house built at the Notch. — Moving of Mr. Willey to the Notch. — The first winter after his removal. — The first slide in June. — The fears of Mr. Willey and his family.

— The great storm. — The great drought previous to the storm. — Theory of slides. — The first signs of the storm. — The gathering of the clouds about the mountains, as seen from Conway. — Night of the disaster. — Very peculiar appearance of the mountains about midnight. — Eapid rise of the Saco in Conway. — First discovery of slides. — First news from the Notch. — The shrill voice in the darkness. — The confirmation of the first report. — The manner of communicating the news. — The trumpet at midnight. — Setting out for Notch. — Condition of the roads. — The appearance of the Saco valley. — Arrival at the " AYilley House." — Search for the bodies. — Finding of some of the bodies. — Burial. — .-.he prayer at the grave. — Finding of other bodies.

— Oxen. — The first night spent in the house succeeding the storm, . . .110

Chapter IX. The Slides, Continued

The family dog. — The first conjecture in regard to manner of destruction. — Second conjecture. — Third conjecture. — The dream. — Why all were detroyed. — The mutilation of the bodies. — David Allen. — The great rise of water. — Their terrible situation during the storm. — The effect of a storm upon a family in the same house a year after. — The storm, .... 129

X CONTENTS.

Chapter X. The Slides, Concluded

The storm as witnessed by one at the mountains. — The view from Bethlehem.

— Rapid rise of the Ammonoosuc. — Condition of Capt. Rosebrook's farm. — Slides as first seen. — Falls of the Ammonoosuc. — Difficulty of reaching Crawford's. — Attempt to ascend the mountains. — The camp. — Great destruction of trees, 141

Chapter XI. Bartlett

General features. — Rocky branch. — Incident on its bank. — Incident of Ellis' river. — First settlement. — Loss of the horses. — Snow caverns. — Brothers Emery. — Humphrey's obstinacy. — Their perilous escape from freezing. — Hon. John Pendexter. — His removal from Portsmouth. — Children. — " Raising" scene. — Mrs. Pendexter. — The great distance of a market. — Difficulty of reaching market. — Traps for catching wild animals. — The common log trap. — Figure four. — Pequawket mountain. — Adventure with a rattlesnake.

— The " Chapel of the Hills." — Mrs. Snow. — Its dedication, 147

Chapter XII

The valleys of the mountains. — The directions in which they run. — Mooso pond. — Mooso bathing. — Moose. — The Conway hunter. — The leap of a moose over a horse and sleigh. — Eagle ledge. — Mineral resources. — General features of Jackson. — Benjamin Copp. — His endurance. — Mr. Pinkham's account of his first entrance into Jackson — The hog. — The house. — Scarcity of salt. — Incident of Capt. Vere Royce. — Tornado. — Expedient to save children. — Bear story. — Freewill Baptist society. — Elder Daniel Elkins, .163

Chapter XIII

Beautiful scenery of Conwaj'. — Autumnal foliage. — Attractions of Conway to hunters and early settlers. — Elijah Dinsmore. — Expedient to keep from starving. — Story of Emery. — Great freshet. — Maple sugar. — Mr. AVilley's encounter with a bear. — Stephen Allard's bear story. — Schools. — Boys and the hogs. — Congregational church. — Dr. Porter. — Baptist church. — Chataque. — North Conway. — Ledges. — Family burying-place. — Names of the family destroyed at the Notch, 174

CONTENTS. X]

Chapter XIV. Fryburg

The importance of Fryburg in early times. — The grant of town to Gen. Frye.

— «Joi. Jit«oi«s ot the grant. — First settlers. — Their hardships. — Oliver Peabody. — Inaidus. — Sabatis. — Encounter with a catamount. — Love of the water. — Indians' lo»e for Mr. Fessenden. — Old Phillip. — Fryburg expedition to Shelburne. - Fryburg academy. — Buildings. — Preceptors. — Paul Langdon. — Daniel \i ebster. — Amos I. Cook. — Rev. William Fessenden. — Marion Lyle Hurd, 189

Chapter XV

lovewell's fight.

View from Pequawket atonntain. — Lovewell's pond. — Sufferings of the early settlers in Dunstable. -Expedition to AVinnipiseogee lake. — Expedition of Lovewell to Pequawket. — His company. — Encampment on the shore of the pond. — Situation of tho Indian village. — " Carrying place." — Discovery of the first Indian. — Kill the Indian. — The battle. — Retreat of Lovewell's men. — Chamberlain and Paugus. — Council at night. — Retreat. — Ensign Wyman and companions. — Mr. Frye. — Jones. — Farwell and Davis. — Traces of the battle.— The old ballad, 204

Chapter XVI. Gilead

Situation of Gilead. — Soil. — Wild river. — Early settlers. — Ministers. — First church. — Slide. — Bears. — Encounter of one Bean. — York's warm reception by a bear. — Oliver Peabody's loose ox, — Famine among bears. — Bear and hog story. — Horrible tragedy, 222

Chapter XVII

segar's narrative.

Attack on Bethel. — Segar. — Indians. — Capture of Segar and companions. — Mrs. Clark. — The journey to Canada. — Pettengill's house. — Hope Austin. — Capt. Rindge. — Murder of Poor. — Clark's escape. — Encampments at night.

— Umbagog lake. — Sufferings from hunger. — Arrival at St. Francis' river.

— Indian dance. — British protection. — Return home, 234

Chapter XVIII. Shelburne

Situation of Shelburne. — Mountains. — Evening drive among the mountains. — Mount Moriah. — Moses' rook. — Granny Starbird's ledge. — Why so called.

XII CONTEXTS.

— Mineral wealth of this town. — Early settlers. — Mr. Daniel Ingalls.— Moses Ingalls. — Killing the devil. — Robert Fletcher Ingalls. — Sufferings of the early settlers. — Indian massacre. — Terrible encounter with wolves. — The famished soldier, 244

CHAP TEE XIX.

GORHAM.

White Mountain Indians. — Col. Clark. — Molly Ockett. — Peol Susup. — Indian eloquence. — Gorham. — Influence of the railroad upon it. — Alpine House. - Glen House. — Mount Washington road. — Carriages. — Building of the " Summit House." — Weather on the summit in May. — Origin of Peabody river. — Wonderful endurance of cold, 258

Chapter XX. Albany, Franconia, And Bethlehem

Drake's version of Chocorua's curse. — Popular legend connected with this curse. — Cause of the disease among cattle in Albany. — Remedy for the dis. ease. — Beavers. — Military incident. — Franconia. — Iron mine. — Extent of tho mine. — Knight's moose story. — Village of Bethlehem. — View of the mountains from Bethlehem. — Early settlement. — First road to the White Mountains from Bethlehem. — Expedient to keep from freezing. — First town-meeting. — Building bridge over Ammonoosuc. — Scarcity of provisions. — Extremity to which inhabitants were driven. — Bethlehem of the present day, 271

Chapter XXI. Geology

Indian theory of creation of world. — Indian idea of the creation of the White Mountains. — Dr. Jackson's theory. — Sir Charles Lyell's theory, .... 282

Chapter XXII. Temperature Of The Mountains

Thermometrical table. — Synopsis of the weather. — Comparison of weather

with Long Island weather. — Earthquakes. — Thunder-storms. — Wind. —

Cold and frost. — Clearness of the atmosphere. — Length of days. — Springs.

Combustion, 291

CHAPTER XXIII. Conclusion, . . 300

*

Chapter I. The Mountains

THE EXTENT AND LOCATION OF THE MOUNTAINS. — THEIR HEIGHT AND THE

GREAT DISTANCE AT -WHICH THEY ARE SEEN. THE INDIAN NAMES.

THE ORIGIN OP THESE NAMES. DR. BELKNAP'S DESCRIPTION. THE

EARLY VISITORS. VINES' AND GORGE'S VISIT. JOSSELYN'S ACCOUNT

OF HIS VISIT. THE CENTRAL GROUP OF MOUNTAINS. HEIGHTS OF

DIFFERENT SUMMITS. GATE OF THE NOTCH. NOTCH. MOUNT WEB- STER. GIANT'S GRAVE. VIEW FROM GIANT'S GRAVE. THE TOPS OF

THE MOUNTAINS. THE FOLIAGE ON THEIR SIDES. THE VEGETATION ON

THE HIGHER SUMMITS. THE SHADOWS OF CLOUDS. INSECTS ON THE

MOUNTAINS. BIRDS. THE DEAD TREES. THE MOUNTAINS DURING A

STORM AS SEEN BY MOONLIGHT AS SEEN IN WINTER. THE SLIDES.

VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT WASHINGTON. VIEW AT SUN- RISE. INDIAN TRADITION.

" Mount Washington, I have come a long distance, have toiled hard to arrive at your summit, and now you seem to give me a cold reception."

Daniel Webster.

The White Mountains embrace the whole group of mountains in northern New Hampshire, extending forty miles from north to south, and about the same distance from east to west. The term has sometimes been applied exclusively to the central cluster, including the six or seven highest peaks, and very properly, though in its comprehensive sense 2 we think it should embrace the extended group. Mount Blanc and Mount Jura constitute not the whole of the Alps ; neither do Washington and Monroe, the White Mountains. Clustering around their central height, like children of onr large family, no merely arbitrary division should ever separate them.

These mountains are the highest land east of the Mississippi river, ' ' and, in clear weather, are descried before any other land by vessels approaching our eastern coast ; but, by reason of their white appearance, are frequently mistaken for clouds. They are visible on the land at the distance of eighty miles, on the south and south-east sides. They appear higher when viewed from the north-east, and it is said they are seen from the neighborhood of Chamblee and Quebec."

The Indian name of these mountains, according to Belknap, is Agiocochook. President Alden states that they were known to some of the more eastern tribes of Indians by the name Waumbekketmethna ; Waumbekket, signifying white, and methna, mountains. And still other tribes gave them the "appellation Ivan Ran Vugarty, the continued likeness of a Gull. All these names, we see, have the same general meaning, and refer to the white appearance of the mountains.

" During the period of nine or ten months the mountains exhibit more or less of that bright appearance, from which they are denominated white. In the spring, when the snow is partly dissolved, they appear of a pale blue, streaked with white ; and after it is wholly gone, at the distance of sixty miles, they are altogether of the same pale blue, nearly approaching a sky color ; while, at the same time, viewed at the distance of eight miles or less, they appear of the proper color of the rock. Light fleecy clouds, floating ahout their Bumraits, give them the same whitish hue as snow.

" These vast and irregular heights, being copiously replenished with water, exhibit a great variety of beautiful cascades ; some of which fall in a perpendicular sheet or spout ; others are winding and sloping ; others spread, and form a basin in the rock, and then gush in a cataract over its edge. A poetic fancy may find full gratification amidst these wild and rugged scenes, if its ardor be not checked by the fatigue of the approach. Almost everything in nature, which can be supposed capable of inspiring ideas of the sublime and beautiful, is here realized. Old mountains, stupendous elevations, rolling clouds, imp ending, rocks, verdant woods, crystal streams, the gentle rill, and the roaring torrent, all conspire to amaze, to soothe, and to enrapture."

These mountains were first visited in 1632, by one Darby Field, whose glowing account of the riches he had discovered on his return, caused others immediately to make the same exploration. The visit of a Mr. Vines and Gorges is thus described by Winthrop : " The report brought by Darby Field, of shining stones, &c, caused divers others to travel thither; but they found nothing worth their pains. Mr. Gorges and Mr. Vines, two of the magistrates of Sir F. Gorges' province, went thither about the end of this month (August). They set out, probably, a few days after the return of Field, dazzled by visions of diamonds and other precious minerals, with which the fancy of this man had garnished his story.

' ' They went up Saco river in birch canoes, and that way they found it ninety miles to Pegwagget, an Indian town ; but by land it is but sixty. Upon Saco river they found many thousand acres of rich meadow ; but there are ten falls which hinder boats, &c. From the Indian town they went up hill (for the most part), about thirty miles, in woody lands. Then they went about seven or eight miles upon shattered rocks, without tree or grass, very steep all the way. At the top is a plain, about three or four miles over, all shattered stones ; and upon that is another rock or spire, about a mile in height, and about an acre of ground at the top. At the top of the plain arise four great rivers ; each of them so much water at the first issue as would drive a mill : Connecticut river from two heads at the N. W., and S. W., which join in one about sixty miles off; Saco river on the S. E. ; Amascoggin, which runs into Casco bay, at the N. E. ; and the Kennebec at the N. by E. The mountains run east and west, thirty or forty miles ; but the peak is above all the rest. They went and returned in fifteen days."

Josselyn, who visited them still later, has thus curiously described them : " Four score miles (upon a direct line), to the N. W. of Scarborow, a ridge of mountains runs N. W. and N. E., an hundred leagues, known by the name of the White Mountains, upon which lieth snow all the year, and is a landmark twenty miles off at sea. It is a rising ground from the sea-shore to these hills ; and they are inaccessible, but by the gullies which the dissolved snow hath made. In these gullies grow saven bushes, which, being taken hold of, are a good help to the climbing discoverer. Upon the top of the highest of these mountains is a large level, or plain, of a day's journey over, whereon nothing grows but moss. At the further end of this plain is another hill, called the sugarloaf — to outward appearance a rude heap of mossie stones, piled one upon another — and you may, as you ascend, step from one stone to another, as if you were going up a pair of stairs, but winding still about the hill, till you come to tho top, -which will require half a day's time ; and yet it is not above a mile, where there is also a level of about an acre of ground, with a pond of clear water in the midst of it, which you may hear run down ; but how it ascends is a mystery. From this rocky hill you may see the whole country round about. It is far above the lower clouds ; and from hence we behold a vapor (like a great pillar), drawn up by the sunbeams out of a great lake, or pond, into the air, where it was formed into a cloud. The country beyond these hills, northward, is daunting terrible ; being full of rocky hills, as thick as mole-hills in a meadow, and clothed with infinite thick woods."

The mountains which have more particularly attracted the attention of the tourists and writers, are near the northern boundary of the group, extending from the "Notch," a distance of fourteen miles in a north-easterly direction. The different peaks of this cluster gradually increase in height from the outside to the centre, where towers Mount Washington high above all. The lower and surrounding mountains are beautifully wooded to their very tops; while the bold Alpine summits of the central ones rise up far above the limits of vegetation, amid the clouds.

The heights of the different summits, as given by Professor Bond, of Cambridge, are, perhaps, the most accurate. Commencing at the "Notch," and giving the heights of each peak as it stands in the range, — Mount Webster is 4,000 feet above the level of the sea; Jackson, 4,100; Clinton, 1,200; Pleasant, 4,800; Franklin, 4,900; Monroe, 5,300; Washington, 6,500 ; Clay, 5,400 ; Adams, 5,700; Jefferson, 5,800 ; Madison, 5,400.

Approaching the central cluster from the south-east, tho mountains gradually close upon you, until they come to- 2* gether at the gate of the "Notch." This gate, or chasm, is formed by two rocks standing perpendicular at the distance of twenty-two feet from each other. Here, by great labor, a road has been constructed on the side of a little brook, whose rugged bed was formerly the only opening in the mountains. The entrance on each side is guarded by high overhanging cliffs, and the walls adjoining the road rise up perpendicularly fifty feet. This defile was known to the Indians, who formerly led their captives through it to Canada ; but it had been forgotten or neglected, till the year 1771, when two hunters (Nash and Sawyer) discovered and passed through it.

The Notch itself is a narrow pass, about three miles in length, running in a north-westerly direction, turning to the right a little at the northern extremity. The mountains here are abruptly torn apart, forming a very narrow valley, through which flows the Saco. " The sublime and awful grandeur of the Notch baffles all description. Geometry may settle the heights of the mountains, and numerical figures may record the measure ; but no words can tell the emotions of the soul, as it looks upward and views the almost perpendicular precipices which line the narrow space between them ; while the senses ache with terror and astonishment, as one sees himself hedged in from all the world beside. He may cast his eye forward or backward, or to cither side — he can see only upward, and then the diminutive circle of his vision is cribbed and confined by the battlements of nature's cloud-capt towers, which seem as if they wanted only the breathing of a zephyr, or the wafting of a straw against them, to displace them, and crush the prisoner in their fall."

Facing the north, on either hand, rise up steep perpendicular walls, two thousand feet above the road at their base, regular and equal, for a great part of the way. On the left is Mount Willey, gloomy and grand ; its sides torn and furrowed by the slides, and here and there abrupt ledges, over whose topmost edge the gathering mass of rocks and earth leaped into the depths below.

On the right is Mount Webster. " This vast and regular mass rises abruptly, from the plain below, to the height of about two thousand feet. Its shape is that of a high fort, with deep scarred sides ; its immense front apparently wholly inaccessible. Its top, nearly horizontal and rough with precipitous crags, juts over with heavy and frowning brows; so mighty a mountain wall, so high, so wide, so vast, and so near the spectator, that all its gigantic proportions and parts are seen with the utmost distinctness. It fills at once the eye and the mind with awe, admiration, and delight. In a bright day, when its outline at the top is seen sharp and distinct against the blue sky, its gray granite cliffs and ledges colored with iron-brown or stained with darker shades, its sides seamed with long gullied slides of brown gravel, its wide beds of great loose rocks, black with lichens, contrasted with the summer greens, or varied autumnal colors of the trees, make it as beautiful and interesting in its varied hues and parts, as it is great and sublime in its total impression." •

Passing through the gate of the Notch, we come to the valley of the Ammonoosuc; and after a distance of four miles, generally through a thick wood, which prevents all views of the surrounding mountains, we come out suddenly into a wide cleared opening, where the whole mountain cluster bursts upon our view. Standing upon an isolated eminence, about sixty feet in height, known as the Giant's grave, the whole range of mountains is in sight.

You stand in the centre of a broad amphitheatre of mountains; the lofty pyramid of Washington, with its basinshaped top, resembling the crater of a volcano, and its bare gray rock sides marked by long gullies, and lower down by broad slides, directly before you, while, far away on the right and left, Mounts Webster and Madison stand at the extremities of the range.

The tops of the mountains are covered with snow from the last of October to the end of May. Occasionally, during the months of July and August, they are almost white with a new-fallen snow or sleet. As the snow melts away, on most of the rocks may be seen mosses and lichens of various hues ; while here and there, in the spaces sheltered by high rocks, beautiful and brilliant flowers, tiny alpine plants, spring up, mixed with the coarse mountain grass.

"The base and sides of the mountains are clothed with a dense and luxurious forest of the trees of the country ; and the ground beneath their shade is ornamented with the beautiful flowers of the northern woods, and deeply covered with a rich carpet of mosses. Below is the sugar-maple, with its broad angular leaves, changing early in autumn, when every leaf is a flower, scarlet or crimson, or variegated with green, yellow, and brown ; the yellow birch, of great size, with its ragged bark, and wide-spreading arms ; the beech, with its round trunk, its smooth bark, marbled, clouded, and embroidered with many-colored lichens ; its stiff slender branches, and its glossy leaves; the white birch, with its smooth and white bark — most abundant in the districts formerly burnt — showing, after its changed yellow leaves have fallen, its slender, wand-like white trunks ranged closely and regularly on the hill sides. With these are mixed a frequent, but generally less abundant growth of black spruces and balsam firs, — the tall spruce, with its stiff and ragged outline, and horizontal branches, the fir, with its beautiful spires, regularly tapering from its base to its tip, and its dark rich foliage, often, as it grows old, hoary with the long, hanging, entangled tufts of the beard-moss, which here so abundantly covers its dying branches. Of the many other trees, smaller or less frequent, we will only mention the striped maple, the mountain ash, the aspen poplars, the hemlock, and the white pine. Higher up, the spruce and fir become the prevailing growth, with the yellow and white birch, gradually growing smaller as they ascend, until the dwarf firs, closely interwoven together, and only a few feet high, form a dense and almost impenetrable hedge, many rods wide, above which project, in fantastic forms, like the horns of a deer, the bare, bleached tops and branches of the dead trees. The dwarf trees are so closely crowded and interwoven together that it is as easy to walk on their tops as to struggle through them on the ground ; and the road is made by removing them with their roots. Above this hedge of dwarf trees, which is about four thousand feet above the level of the sea, the scattered fir and spruce bushes, shrinking from the cold mountain wind, and clinging to the ground in sheltered hollows by the side of the rocks, with a few similar bushes of white and yellow birch, reach almost a thousand feet higher. Above are only alpine plants, mosses, and lichens."