History of the White mountains:

Front matter

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Preface To The New Edition

This work, which has been out of print for the past ten years, was first published in 1855. Within the last few years there has been an extensive call for the same, and to supply this demand I have revised and prepared this edition, which I now offer to the public.

The prime object of this work was not so much to supply a Guide to the Mountains as an authentic History of the same ; and in preparing this edition I have kept this in view, and retained as far as possible the original text of the author, making such changes and additions only as the present seemed to demand.

I take this opportunity to thank those persons who have rendered assistance in preparing the work for press ; and especially I acknowledge the kindness of Mr. Thomas Hill, in allowing an engraving of his fine painting, representing the "Notch" the morning after the slkles, which is placed as a frontispiece to this work.

F. T.

Hartford, Conn., May 6, 1870.

Author's Preface

Almost invariably the question is asked me, on an introduction to a stranger, " Are you a connection of the family destroyed at the White Mountains ? " and, on learning that I am, the question is almost certain to follow, " What were the facts in regard to their destruction ? "

The frequency of the inquiry, and the apparent interest with which the narration of that fearful scene has been listened to, have led me to suppose that a particular account of that terrible storm, and the destruction of my brother's family, would be interesting to the public. Travellers have long needed a Book of the Mountains ; and so pressingly have I been urged to undertake such a book, that the above fact, the abundance of material, and the thought that I might benefit myself, and supply an existing want, has induced me to undertake the task. How I have succeeded others will judge. It was not undertaken as a literary effort, but a simple narration of facts. Are they intelligible ? is my only inquiry. When I commenced, there was no book on the vi author's preface.

"White Mountains, save a small work by Mrs. Crawford, widow of the late Ethan A. Crawford. That was out of print, and had been so for years. When my manuscript was nearly completed, a small book on the White Mountains came out, by Mr. John H. Spaulding ; but it does not conflict with mine. B. G. W.

East Sumner, Me., Sept., .1855.

Chapter I. The Mountains

The extent and location of the mountains. — Their height and the great distance at which they are seen. — The Indian names. — The origin of these names. — Dr. Belknap's description. — The early visitors. — Vines' and Gorge's visit. — Josselyn's account of his visit. — The central group of mountains. — Heights of different summits. — Gato of the Notch. — Notch. — Mount "Webster. — Giant's Grave. — View from Giant's Grave. — The tops of the mountains. — The foliage on their sides. — The vegetation on the higher summits. — The shadows of clouds. — Insects on the mountains. — Birds. — The dead trees. — The mountains during a storm — as seen by moonlight — as seen in winter. — The sides. — View from the summit of Mount Washington. — View at sunrise. — Indian tradition, 13

Chapter II. Mountains Continued

The many objects of interest. — The great gulf. — Oakcs' gulf. — Tuckerman's raviue. — Snow cavern. — Source of the many springs on the mountains. — Saco and Merrimac rivers. — Ellis and Peabody rivers. — Cascades. — Silver cascades. — The flume. — The devil's den. — Crystal falls. — Glen Ellis falls. — Airmonoosuc. — Falls of the Ammonoosuc. — Franconia mountains. — Mount Lafayette. — Eagle cliff. — Cannon mount. — Old Man of the Mountains. — Profile lake. — Optical illusions from Cannon mount. — Echo lake. —The basin. — The flume. — The pool. — Narrow escapo from a fall into the pool, 28

Chapter III. The Indians

The Uncertainty of the many traditions. — The superstitions of the Indians. — Probable cause of those superstitions. — Tradition of a flood. — Great treasures of gold and gems. — Search for treasures. — The particular tribes inhab-

I

VIII

CONTENTS.

iting the mountains. — Indian relics in Conway — In Ossipce — In Fryburg — The Sokokis. — Their destruction by the pestilence. — Account of Vines of his visit to them. — Squando. — Death of his child. — Assacumbuit. — Visit to France. — Destruction of Haverhill. — Polan. — Whittier'a verses on his burial. — Chocorua. — His curse. — Anasagunticooks. — Their chiefs. — Hon. Enoch Lincoln's interest in Indians of this region. — Visit of Gov. Lincoln to Natalluck. — Indian myth. — The little Indian infant. — Curious marriago custom, 42

CHAPTER IV. COoS COUNTY

Coos as a farming county. — Tho opinion of Hon. Isaac Hill. — Dr. Dwight's account of the climate. — The many and peculiar shapes of towns. — Kilkenny.— Pilot and Willard mountains. — Story of "Willard and his dog. — Randolph. — Extensive views fiom Randolph. — Ascent of .Mount Jefferson. — Great danger in a storm. — View from Jefferson. — Jefferson. — Beautiful situation of Jefferson. — Brothers Glines. — Colonel Whipple. — His yearly visit to Portsmouth. — Story illustrating his care of his townsmen. — His capturo by the Indians, and escape. — Mr. Gotham. — The importance of the discovery of the Notch. — Nash's discovery of the pass. — Gov. "Wentworth. — Getting a horse through the defile. — Sawyer. — "Sawyer's Rock." — .Mountain carriages. — Barrel of tobacco. — Barrel of rum. — Cutting the road through tho Notch. — Hart's location, . 58

Chapter V. Early Settlers

Early settlement of the locations. — Capt. Rosebrook. — Monadnuc. — Mrs. Rosebrook. — Scarcity of salt. — Great crops. — Removal from Monadnuc- Settlement at Guildhall. — Mrs. Rosebrook's adventure with tho Indians.- Removal to Nash and Sawyer's location. — Difficulty of finding his house in the drifts of snow. — "Want of provisions. — His energy. — Cancer. — His death. — Ethan Allen Crawford, tho giaut of the mountains — His early youth. — Hardships. — Tho treacherous servant, .75

Chapter VI

ETHAN A. CRAWFORD.

Mr. Crawford's impressive manner of story-telling. — The burning of his buildings.— His energy in repairing his losses. — His labors as a guide on to tho mountains. — The difficulty formerly of reaching the mountains. — .Story illustrating difficulty of travelling in those days. — Present modes of reaching mountains. — First ascent of the mountains. — Party of students from Fr*-

CONTENTS.

IX burg. — Easo of ascending now. — First bridle-path. — Ethan's severe wound.

— Granny Stalbard. — Carriage-road from Glen House. — Lovo of Hunting. — The gray cat. — Adventures with them. — Lassos and captures ono with birch poles. — Wolves. — His annoyance and discomfiture by them. — Bear stories.

— Catching the cub. — Capture of a full-grown bear, S'i

Chapter VII. The Crawford Family

Mr. Crawford's early death. — A remarkable man. — Tho Crawford family.— Abel Crawford. — Mrs. Crawford. — Her bravery during the night of the slides. — "Crawford House." — Death of Mr. Strickland on the mountains. — Danger of ascending mountains without guide. — Party of students lost on mountains. — Nancy's brook. — Story of Nancy. — Superstitious connected with the spot where she was found. — Owl story. — Beautiful auroral display at the Notch, 95

CHAPTER VI if.

THE SLIDES.

The effect of the turnpike upon travel through the Notch. — Co6s teamsters. — Pleasure travel. — Want of public houses. — The first house built at tha Notch. — Moving of Mr. Willey to the Notch. — Tho first winter after his removal. — The first slide in June. — The fears of Mr. Willey and his family.

— The great storm. — The great drought previous to tho storm. — Theory of slides. — The first signs of tho storm. — The gathering of the clouds about tho mountains, as seen from Conway. — Night of the disaster. — Very peculiar appearance of the mountains about midnight. — Bapid rise of the Saco in Conway. — First discovery of slides. — First news from tho Notch. — The shrill voico in the darkness. — The confirmation of the first report. — The manner of communicating the news. — The trumpet at midnight. — Setting out for Notch. — Condition of the roads. — The appearance of the Saco valley. — Arrival at tho " Willey House." — Search for tho bodies. — Finding of somo of the bodies. — Burial. — j.he prayer at the grave. — Finding of other bodies. •—Oxen. — Tho first night spent in the house succeeding the storm, . . .110

Chapter IX. The Slides, Continued

The family dog. — The first conjecture in regard to manner of destruction. — Second conjecture. — Third conjecture. — Tbo dream. — Why all were detroyed. — The mutilation of tho bodies. — David Allen. — The great rise of water. — Their terrible situation during the storm. — The effect of a storm upon a family in the sane houso a year after. — Tho storm, .... 12U

X

CONTENTS.

Chapter X. The Slides, Concluded

The storm as witnessed by ono at tho mountains. — Tho view from Bethlehem

— Rapid rise of the Aramonoosuc. — Condition of Capt. Rosebrook's farm. — Slides as first seen. — Falls of the Ammonoosuc. — Difficulty of reaching Crawford's. — Attempt to ascend the mountains. — The camp. — Great destruction of trees, 141

Chapter XI. Bartlett

General features. — Rocky branch. — Incident on its bank. — Incident of Ellis' river. — First settlement. — Loss of the horses. — Snow caverns.— Brothers Emery. — Humphrey's obstinacy. — Their perilous escape from freezing. — Hon. John Pendcxter. — His removal from Portsmouth. — Children. — " liaising" scene. — Mrs. Pendexter. — The great distance of a market. — Difficulty of reaching market. — Traps for catching wild animals. — Tho common log trap. — Figure four. — Pequawkct mountain. — Adventure with a rattlesnake.

— The " Chapel of the Hills."— Mrs. Snow.— Its dedication, 147

Chapter XII. Jackson

The valleys of the mountains. — Tho directions in which they run. — Moose pond. — Moose bathing. — Moose. — Tho Conway hunter. — The leap of a moose over a horse and sleigh. — Eagle ledgo. — Mineral resources. — General features of Jackson. — Benjamin Cupp. — His endurance. — Mr. Pinkham's account of his first entrance into Jackson — Tho hog. — The house. — Scarcity of salt. — Incident of Capt. Vere Boycc. — Tornado. — Expedient to save children.— Bear story. — Freewill Baptist society. — Elder Daniel Elkins, .163

Chapter XIII. Conway

Beautiful scenery of Conway. — Autumnal foliage. — Attractions of Conway to hunters and early settlers. — Elijah Dinsmorc. — Expedient to keep from starving.— Story of Emery. — Great freshet. — Maplo sugar. — Mr. Willoy*a encounter with a bear. — Stephen Allard's bear story. — Schools. — Boys and the hogs. — Congregational church — Dr. Porter. — Baptist church. — Episcopal church — Chatauque. — North Conway. — Ledges. — Family burying-place. — Numes of the family destroyed at the Motch 174

CONTENTS.

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Chapter XIV. Fryburg

The importune© of Fryburg in early times. — The grant of town to Gen. Frye. — Cor.Jitlci^ ot the grant. — First settlers. — Their hardships. — Oliver Peabody. — Indians. — Subatis. — Encounter with a catamount. — Love of the water. — Indians' lofe for Mr. Fcssendcn. — Old Phillip. — Fryburg expedition to Shelburne. -Fryburg academy. — Buildings. — Preceptors. — Paul Langdon. — Daniel Webster. — AnioB I. Cook. — Rev. "William Fes3enden. — Marion Lylo Hurd, 189

CHAPTER XV. lovewell's fight.

View from Pequawket vaonntain. — Lovewell's pond. — Sufferings of the early settlers in Dunstable. -Expedition to Winnipiseogeo lake. — Expedition of Lovewell to Pequawket. — His company. — Encampment on the shore of the pond. — Situation of the Iudian village. — " Carrying place." — Discovery of the first Indian. — Kill the Indian. — The battle. — Retreat of Lovewell's men. — Chamberlain and Paugus. — Council at night. — Retreat. — Ensign Wyman and companions. — Mr. Frye. — Jones. — Farwcll and Davis. — Traces of the battle.— The old ballad, 204

Chapter XVI. Gilead

Situation of Gilead. — Soil. — Wild river. — Early settlers. — Ministers. — First church. — Slide. — Bears. — Encounter of one Bean. — York's warm reception by a bear. — Oliver Peabody's loose ox. — Famino among bears. — Bear and hog story, 222

Chapter XVII

segar's narrative.

Attack on Bethel. — Segar. — Indians. — Capture of Segar and companions. — Mrs. Clark. — The journey to Canada. — Pettengill's house. — Hope Austiu.— • Capt. Rindge. — Murder of Poor. — Clark's escape. — Encampments at night.

— Umbagog lake. — Sufferings from hunger. — Arrival at St. Francis' river.

— Indian dance. — British protection. — Return home, 234

Chapter XVIII. Rhelburne

Situation of Shelburne. — Mountains. — Evening drive among tho mountains.— Mount Moriah. — Moses' rock. — Granny Starbird's ledge. — Why so called.

XII

CONTENTS.

— Mineral wealth of this town. — Early settlers. — Mr. Daniel Ingalls.— Moses Ingalls. — Killing the devil. — Hubert Fletcher Ingalls. — Sufferings of the early settlers. — Indian massacre. — Terrible encounter with wolves. — The famished soldier, 244

Chapter XIX. Gorham

White Mountain Indians. — Col. Clark. — Molly Ockett. — Peol Susup. — Indian eloquence. — Gorbam. — Influence of tbo railroad upon it. — Alpine House. - Glen House. — Mount Wasbington road. — Carriages. — Building of the "Summit House." — Weather on the summit in May. — Origin of Peabody river. — Wonderful enduranco of cold, 258

Chapter XX. Albany, I'ranconia, And Bethlehem

Drake's version of Cbocorua's curse. — Popular legend connected with tbis curse.— Cause of the disease among cattle in Albany. — Keinedy for tbe dis. ease. — Beavers. — Military incident. — Franconia. — Iron mine. — Extent of the mine. — Knight's moose story. — Village of Ectblcbcm. — View of tbe mountains from Bethlehem. — Early settlement. — First road to tbe White Mountains from Bethlehem. — Expedient to keep from freezing. — First town-meeting. — Building bridge over Ammonoosuc. — Scarcity of provisions. — Extremity to which inhabitants were driven. — Bethlehem of the present day, 271

Chapter XXI. Geology

Indian theory of creation of world. — Indian idea of tho creation of the White Mountains. — Dr. Jackson's theory. — Sir Charles Lyell's theory, .... 283

Chapter XXII. Temterature Of The Mountains

Tbermometrical table. — Synopsis of the weather. — Comparison of weather with Long Island weather. — Earthquakes. — Thundor-storms. — Wind. — Cold and frost. — Clearness of the atmosphere. — Length of days. — Springs. Combustion, 291