The Englishwoman in Egypt

II

No. I.

OF THE

HOME AND TRAVELLER'S LIBRARY

CONTAINED

TEXAS

AND

THE GULF OF MEXICO;

OR

YACHTING IN THE NEW WORLD. £ $ 3

BY MRS. HOUSTOUN. /JT

With. Illustrations. $**£*4

No. II.

THE

ENGLISHWOMAN IN EGYPT,

BY MRS. POOLE.

To be followed, at intervals of about two weeks, by No. III.

NIGHTS OF THE ROUND TABLE.

AND

No. IV.

SKETCHES

OF

ETC. ETC. ETC.

X

1^\' % w

ENGLISHWOMAN IN EGYPT; '

LETTERS FROM CAIRO, •

WRITTEN DURING A RESIDENCE THERE IN 1842, 3, & 4.

E. W. LANE, Esq.,

AUTHOR OF " THE MODERN EGYPTIANS,

BY HIS SISTER, r

PHILADELPHIA:

C. Sherman. Printer. Philadelphia.

Preface

The desire of shortening the period of my separation from a beloved brother, was the first and strongest motive that induced me to think of accompanying him to the country in which I am now writing, and which he was preparing to visit for the third time. An eager curiosity, mainly excited by his own publications, greatly increased this desire ; and little persuasion on his part was necessary to draw me to a decision ; but the idea was no sooner formed than he found numerous arguments in its favour. The opportunities I might enjoy of obtaining an insight into the mode of life of the higher classes of the ladies in this country, and of seeing many things highly interesting in themselves, and rendered more so by their being accessible only to a lady, suggested to him the idea that I might both gratify my own curiosity, and collect much information of a novel and interesting nature, which he proposed I should embody in a series of familiar letters to a friend. To encourage me to attempt this latter object, he placed at my disposal a large collection of his own unpublished notes, that I might extract from them, and insert in my letters whatever I might think fit ; and in order that I might record my impressions and observations with less restraint than I should experience if always feeling that I was writing for the press, he promised me that he would select those letters which he should esteem suitable for publication, and mark them to be copied. The present selection has been made by him ; and I fear the reader may think that affection has sometimes biassed his judgment; but am encouraged to hope for their favourable reception, for the sake of the more solid matter with which they are interspersed, from the notes of one to whom Egypt has become almost as familiar as England.

Sophia Poole.

Letter I

Approach to Alexandria — Old and new harbours— General aspect of the town — Costume and appearance of the inhabitants — Shops and shopkeepers — European part of town — Pharos (or lighthouse) 13

Letter II

Situation and construction of Alexandria — Supply of water — Climate and degree of salubrity — Telegraphs — City wall — Cleopatra's Needle — Pompey's Pillar — Tradition respecting the burning of the Alexandrian Library — Necropolis of Alexandria 21

Letter III

Voyage from Alexandria to Cairo — Canal from Alexandria to the Nile — Boats on the Nile — Town of Fooweh — Village of Shubra Kheet — Ancient town of Sais, and present state of the remains — Egyptian festivals — Voyage up the Nile — Boats and boatmen — Instances of mirage — Banks of the Nile — Arrival at Boulak, and equipment in Egyptian costume—Ride from Boulak to Cairo - - - 31 1*

Letter IV

Arrival at Cairo— Bridal processions — Funeral processions — General form of construction of the better class of houses in Cairo — Annoyance arising from the supposed visits of an 'efreet (evil spirit or ghost)— Extraordinary noises made by the supposed 'efreet — Want of cleanliness of the female servants 43

Letter V

General physical sketch of Egypt — Lower Egypt — The Nile —The valleys of the Nile— Soil and cultivation— Annual inundation of Lower Egypt by the Nile — Gradual rise and decrease of the river — Use of the Avater for drinking — Rapidity of the current, and navigation of the river - 52

Letter VI

Physical sketch of Egypt, continued — Climate of Egypt — Heat — Infrequency of rain — Prevalence of northwesterly winds — Other winds — Khamaseen winds — The Samoom — Whirling pillars of sand — The'sarab,'or mirage — Irrigation of the fields— Physical and agricultural calendar of Egypt for each month of the year 59

Letter VII

The Ramadan, or month of abstinence — Severity of the fasting — Imposing effect of the night-call to prayer by the Mueddins — Meals at night during the Ramadan — Oppressive heat, and annoyance occasioned by insects and vermin — Flies, musquitoes, bugs, fleas, rats, lizards, spiders, scorpions — Extraordinary storm of wind — Unusual rise of the Nile — Murrain among the cattle 70

Letter VIII

Danger in travelling through the streets of Cairo — Prejudice against Europeans, and oppressive treatment of Christians and Jews — Procession of the Mahmal, preparatory to the departure of the great caravan of pilgrims for Mekkah — Origin of the ceremony of the Mahmal 76

Letter IX

General appearance of Cairo — Narrowness of the 'shares,' or great thoroughfare-streets, and inconveniences of transit through them — Costume of the inhabitants, as seen in the streets— Shops — 4 Darbs,' or by-streets — ' Sooks,' or markets — Khans — Khan El-Khaleelee — ' Wekaleh-el-Gellabeh,' or market of the slave-merchants — Quarters of the Jews, Greeks, Copts, and Franks — Vacant spaces, lakes, cemeteries, and gardens of the city — * El-Khaleeg,' the canal which traverses the city — General description of the mosques 81

Letter X

Difficulty experienced by Europeans of obtaining access to the , interiors of the principal mosques — Mosque of the Hasaneyn — Custom of taking off the shoes or slippers — El-Zame-el- Azhar, or ' the splendid mosque' — Paupers supported in the mosques — Variety of scenes presented by worshippers, lecturers, and students — Mosque of Mohammed Bey — Ruinous state of the mosque of the Khaleefeh El-Hakim - - 81

LETTER XL

Collegiate mosque called Barkookeeyeh — Tomb, mosque, and hospital of the Sultan Kala-oon — State and treatment of the

CONTENTS.

lunatics confined in the maristan, or hospital — Anecdotes concerning the lunatics — Mosques of the Sultan El-Gh6ree f the Sultan El-Mu-eiyad, and the Sultan Hasan — Mosque of Ibn-Tooloon — Ruined castle or palace called Kal'at-el-Kebsh, or Castle of the Ram — Sebeels, or public fountains — Hods, or watering-places for beasts of burden — Hammams, or public baths — Kahwehs, or coffee-shops 97

Letter XII

Citadel of Cairo — Ruins of the old palace called Kasr Yoosuf, or Deewan Yoosuf— Remarkable view of Cairo from the edge of the hill on which are the remains of ' the house of Yoosuf Salah-ed-Deen' — The celebrated well of Yoosuf Salah-ed-Deen — Mount Mukattam — Cemeteries — Lakes and gardens — Aqueduct by which the water of the Nile is conveyed to the citadel — Island of Er-Rodah, or ' island of the garden' — Town of Masr el-'Ateekah — Mosque of 'Amr — Kasr esh-Shema, an old Roman fortress — Town of El-Geezeh — Shubra, the favourite country residence of the Pasha — Site of Heliopolis— Village of El-Khankeh - - 108

Letter XIII

Various noises made in " the haunted house" by the supposed 'efreet — Appearances and proceedings of the pretended spirit — is shot at by one of the servants - - 119

Letter XIV

Visits to some of the principal hareems — Necessity of riding the high ass in paying visits to the high hareems — Hareem apartments — Costume of the Turkish ladies — Ceremonial observance — Use of the Turkish and Arabic languages — Manners and customs of the ladies of the East — Fountains and baths — Ceremony of re-attiring and taking leave 124

CONTENTS.

Letter XV

The 4£ haunted house"— Climate of Egypt — State of the poor — Respect paid to the mother of a family — The wife — Preparation of food and manner of eating — Eastern etiquette — Dinner arrangements — Sacrednessof the hareem,and respect paid to females — Usage of marrying without having seen the future wife 131

Letter XVI

Treatment of slaves in Egypt — Dancing and singing — Influence and power of wives among the higher classes, and tyranny of husbands among the lower classes — Employments of females in the hareem — Beauty of the embroidery excuted by them — Can seldom read and write - - 139

Letter XVII

Plague in Egypt — Means used to ascertain whether the disease be contagious or not — Enforcement of quarantine — Egypt visited by pestilence, murrain, and locusts — Extravagance of marriage festivities — Fondness of the Egyptians for gardens and water — Extreme heat - 144

Letter XVIII

Distress exhibited by the females of the hareem of a Turkish grandee, in consequence of his imprisonment — Fear of the * evil eye' — Interest which the ladies of the hareem take in politics— Courteous manners of the chief ladies, and dress and ornaments worn by them — Large serpent — Serpentcharmers — Intended repairs of Cairo — An instance of pretended death and burial. 149

CONTENTS.

Letter XIX

Visit to the hareem of Mohammad 'Alee — Decorations of the rooms and splendour of the furniture — Reception by the wives of the Pasha — Dinner, dinner-arrangements, and courtesy displayed by the chief ladies — Number of beautiful women in the hareem of Mohammad 'Alee — Description of the dress worn by the Turkish ladies in Egypt - 156

Letter XX

Etiquette of the harcems as to order and precedence — Arrangement of the apartments, and doorkeepers— Facility of admission to the houses of grandees, as distinct from the hareems — Turkish etiquette and French politeness — Organization of the hareems — Modesty of the females — Prejudices

i against Christianity — Maternal tenderness, and superstitions of the ■ evil eye,' — Uncouth dresses worn by the females in winter — Climate in winter, and storm of thunder and rain 164

Letter XXI

Visit to the eldest daughter of Mohammad 'Alee — Affability of the reception, company present, and general ceremonial of visiting — Her Highness's pipes — Bridal processions among the middle classes — Ignominious punishment of four lawyers — Circumstances connected with the early marriage of females 172

Letter XXII

Treatment of females in the hareems — Cruelty practised by the middle and lower orders — Missionary Society in Cairo — Instances of cruel treatment of wives, children and slaves

CONTENTS. Xlll

Muslim ceremonies with respect to the dead — hired mourners, &c. — Cemeteries and tombs — Tombs of the family of Mohammed 'Alee 178

Letter XXIII

Visit to the pyramids— Approach to the pyramids, and inadequate idea of their dimensions — Tombs occupied as dwellings — Circumstances connected with Mr. Lane's visit to the pyramids in 1825 — Guards and attendants at the present visit — Description of the Great Pyramid — Dr. Lepsius's account of the mode of construction — Present state of the exterior of the Great Pyramid — View from the top — Dangers to which visiters to the pyramids are exposed - - 186

Letter XXVIII

Wives of Mohammad 'Alee — Visit to his hareem in the citadel — Apartments and reception — Ceremony on quitting this hareem — Visit to the hareem of Habeeb EfTendee — Courteous behaviour of his wife and daughters, and political conversation with them— Mrs. Darner's " Tour" - - - 228

THE

ENGLISHWOMAN IN EGYPT.

LETTER I. Alexandria, July, 1842

My dear Friend,

The blessing of going into port, at the conclusion of a first long voyage, awakens feelings so deep and so lasting, that it must form a striking era in the life of every traveller. Eagerly, during a long morning, did I and my children strain our eyes as the low uninteresting coast of Egypt spread before our view, that we might catch the first glimpse of one or more of those monuments of which we had hitherto only heard or read. The first object which met our view was the Arab Tower, which stands on a little elevation; and shortly after, the new lighthouse on the peninsula of the Pharos, and the Pasha's army of windmills, showed our near approach to Alexandria, and the Pillar (commonly called Pompey's) seemed to rise from the bay.

The coast presents to the Mediterranean a long sandy

flat, bearing throughout a most desolate aspect, and in no

part more so than in the neighbourhood of Alexandria.

To the west of this town we see nothing but a tract cf yellowish calcareous rock and sand, with here and there a few stunted palm-trees, which diversify but little the dreary prospect.

The old or western harbour (anciently called Eunostus Portus) is deeper and more secure than the new harbour (which is called Magnus Portus). The former, which was once exclusively appropriated to the vessels of the IVJuslims, is now open to the ships of all nations ; and the latter, which was " the harbour of the infidels," is almost deserted. The entrance of the old harbour is rendered difficult by reefs of rocks, leaving three natural passages, of which the central has the greatest depth of water. The rocks occasion a most unpleasant swell, from which we all suffered, but I especially ; and I cannot describe how thankfully I stepped on shore, having passed the smooth water of the harbour. Here already I see so much upon which to remark, that I must indulge myself by writing two or three letters before our arrival in Cairo, where the state of Arabian society being unaltered by European innovations, I hope to observe much that will interest you with respect to the condition of the native female society. I do not mean to give you many remarks on the manners and customs of the male portion of the people, my brother having written so full a description of them, the correctness of which has been attested by numerous persons, who cannot be suspected (as his sister might be) of undue partiality.

To tell you of our landing, of the various and violent contentions of the Arab boatmen for the conveyance of our party, of our really polite reception at the customhouse, and of our thankfulness when enjoying the quiet of our hotel, would be to detain you from subjects far more interesting ; but I long to describe the people by ,whom we were surrounded, and the noisy crowded streets and lanes through which we passed. The streets, until we arrived at the part of the town inhabited by Franks, ^were so narrow that it was extremely formidable to meet any thing on our way. They are miserably close, and for the purpose of shade, the inhabitants have in many cases thrown matting from roof to roof, extending across the street, with here and there a small aperture to admit light; but the edges of these apertures are generally broken, and the torn matting hanging down : in short, the whole appearance is gloomy and wretched. I ought not, however, to complain of the narrowness of the streets, for where the sun is not excluded by matting, the deep shade produced by the manner in which the houses are constructed, is most welcome in this sunny land; and, indeed, when we arrived at the Frank part of the town, which is in appearance almost European, and where a wide street and a fme open square, form a singular contrast to the Arab part of the town, we scarcely congratulated ourselves; for the heat was intense, and we hastened to our hotel, and gratefully enjoyed the breeze which played through the apartments. I hear that many persons prefer the climate of Alexandria to that of Cairo, and pronounce it to be more salubrious ; but a Caireen tells me that their opinion is false — that it is certainly cooler, but that the air is extremely damp, and although the inhabitants generally enjoy a sea-breeze, that luxury involves some discomfort.

But I must tell you of the people ; for there appeared to my first view none but dignified grandees, in every variety of costume, and miserable beggars, so closely assembled in the narrow streets, that it seemed as though they had congregated on the occasion of some public festival. On examining more closely, however, I found many gradations in the style of dress of the middle and higher classes ; but the manner of the Eastern (even that of the well-clothed servant) is so distinguished, and their carriage is so superior, that a European glancing for the first time at their picturesque costume, and observing their general bearing, may be perfectly at a loss as to what may be their position in society.

I believe that I have already seen persons of almost every country bordering on the Mediterranean, and I can convey but a very imperfect idea of such a scene. The contrast between the rich and gaudy habits of the higher classes, and the wretched clothing of the barefooted poor, while many children of a large growth are perfectly in a state of nudity, produced a most remarkable effect. The number of persons nearly or entirely blind, and especially the aged blind, affected us exceedingly, but we rejoiced in the evident consideration they received from all who had occasion to make room for them to pass. I should imagine that all who have visited this country have remarked the decided respect which is shown to those who are superior in years ; and that this respect is naturally rendered to the beggar as well as to the prince. In fact, the people are educated in the belief that there is honour in the " hoary head," and this glorious sentiment strengthens with their strength, and beautifully influences their conduct.

Many of the poor little infants called forth painfully my sympathy : their heads drooped languidly ; and their listless, emaciated limbs showed too plainly that their little race was nearly run ; while the evident tenderness of their mothers made me grieved to think what they might be called on to endure. You will naturally infer that I expect few children to pass the season of infancy, and you will conclude justly : for I cannot look at these little creatures, and suppose that they will survive what is here the most trying time, the season of dentition. I may have been unfortunate ; for among the numerous infants we have passed, I have only seen two who were able to hold their heads in an erect position, and, indeed, of those past infancy, most were very wretched-looking children. Over their dark complexions there is a white leprous hue, and they have a quiet melancholy manner, and an air of patient endurance, which affected me sensibly.

It is sad to see the evident extreme poverty of the lower orders; and the idle, lounging manner of the working class surprised me : and yet when called on to labour, I am informed that no people work so heartily, and so patiently. I rather think they are very like their good camels in disposition, with the exception that the latter scold often if an attempt be made to overload them, and in some cases will not rise from their knees until relieved of part of their burden, while the Arabs really suffer themselves to be built up with loads as though they had no more sense of oppression than a truck or a wheelbarrow. The Arab groom, too, will run by the side of his master's horse for as many hours as he requires his attendance without a murmur. The physical strength of these people is most extraordinary. I had an opportunity of remarking this during the removal of our luggage from the boat.

The windows of our hotel command a view of the great square, and I can scarcely describe to you the picturesque attraction of the scene. Among the various peculiarities of dress, feature, and complexion, which characterize the natives of Africa and the East, none are more striking than those which distinguish the noble and hardy western Bedawee, enveloped as he is in his ample woollen shirt, or hooded cloak, and literally clothed suitably for a Russian winter. You will believe that my attention has been directed to the veiled women, exhibiting in their dull disguise no other attraction than a degree of stateliness in their carriage, and a remarkable beauty in their large dark eyes, which, besides being sufficiently distinguished by nature, are rendered more conspicuous by the black border of kohl round the lashes, and by the concealment of the rest of the features. The camel-drivers' cries of « O'a," " Guarda," and " Sakin,"* resound every where,

* "Take care," in Arabic, Italian, and Turkish. 2* and at every moment, therefore, you may imagine the noise and confusion in the streets.

In the open space before the hotel, there are long trains of camels laden with water-skins, or with bales of merchandise, winding slowly and cautiously along even in this wide place, while their noiseless tread, and their dignified (I might almost say affected) walk, at once distinguishes them from all other beasts of burden.

I must not omit mentioning the shops of Alexandria, for they resemble cupboards rather than rooms ; and this I understand to be the case in most Turkish and Arabic cities. A raised seat of brick or stone about three feet high, and the same or more in width, extends along each side of the street, and upon this the tradesman sits before his shop, either smoking or at work. It is really amusing to see how easily they appear to gain their livelihood : the fact is, that they are an exceedingly contented people, and there is much of real philosophy in their conclusions. They are seldom disposed, when working on their own account, to labour for more than enough, and have the quality, so rarely found in Europe, of considering that enough is as desirable as abundance : therefore they are happy, and "their best riches, ignorance of wealth." I have observed, at corners of the streets, or wherever else there was sufficient space, groups of men and women seated on the ground, with baskets before them containing bread and vegetables for sale.

The quarter occupied by the Europeans is the southeastern part of the town, by the shore of the new harbour. This situation I conclude was chosen for the convenience of landing and shipping their merchandise ; but now that the old harbour is open to their vessels, the situation is not so advantageous for them. On the east side of the great square is a large building called the New Wekaleh (by the Europeans Occale), for the reception of merchants and others, on the shore of the new harbour. It surrounds i a spacious square court; and the ground-floor of the building consists of magazines towards the court, and shops and the entrances of the dwellings towards the exterior.

My brother has given me a piece of information with regard to the present Pharos, which you shall receive in his own words : —

" The modern Pharos is a poor successor of the ancient building, erected by Sostratus Cnidius, from which it derives its name ; though from a distance it has rather an imposing appearance. Several Arab historians mention the telescopic mirror of metal which was placed at the summit of the ancient Pharos. In this mirror, vessels might be discerned at sea at a very great distance. El-Makreezee* informs us that the Greeks, being desirous of effecting the destruction of the Pharos, or of obtaining possession of the wonderful mirror, employed a deep stratagem. One of their countrymen repaired to the sovereign of the Arabs, El-Weleed the son of 'Abd-el- Melik, and professed himself a convert to the faith of El-Islam, pretending that he*had fled from his king, who would have put him to death. He informed the prince that he had acquired, from certain books in his possession, the art of discovering where treasures were concealed in the earth, and had thus ascertained that there was a valuable treasure, consisting of money and jewels, deposited beneath the foundation of the Pharos of Alexandria. The prince, deceived by this artful tale, sent a number of workmen with his crafty adviser to pull down the Pharos ; and when more than half the building had been destroyed, the Greek made his escape to his own country, and his artifice thus became manifest. The same author relates that part of the Pharos was thrown down by an earthquake, in the year of the Flight 177

* El-Makreezee flourished in the 14th and 15th centuries.

(a. d. 793-4) ; that Ahmad Ibn-Tooloon surmounted it with a dome of wood ; and that an inscription upon a plate of lead was found upon the northern side, buried in the earth, written in ancient Greek characters, every letter of which was a cubit in height, and a span in breadth. This was perhaps the inscription placed by the original architect, and which, according to Strabo, was to this effect — ■ Sostratus Cnidius, the son of Dexiphanes, to the protecting gods, for the sake of the mariners.' It is also related by Es-Sooyootee,* that the inhabitants of Alexandria likewise made use of the mirror above mentioned to burn the vessels of their enemies, by directing it so as to reflect the concentrated rays of the sun upon them."

The causeway of stone which connects the fort and lighthouse with the peninsula of Pharos, is now called Rodat-et-Teen (or the Garden of the Fig), on account of a few fig-trees growing there. Its southwestern extremity is called Ras-et-Teen (or the Cape of the Fig). Upon this rocky peninsula are a palace of the Pasha, and some other buildings, with the burial-ground of the Muslims, adjacent to the town.

I must endeavour in my next letter to give you a brief general account of the town, and must close this by remarking on the affecting sound of the Mueddin's chant or Muslim call to prayer. I should be grieved to think that we are impressed by the solemnity of their sonorous voices, simply because we hear them for the first time ; and trust we may always feel a mixture of pity and admiration when we believe our fellow-creatures to be in earnest in the service of God, however mistaken their opinions. The sight of the Muslim engaged in his devotions I think most interesting ; and it cannot fail,

* A celebrated Arab theologian and historian, so called from his birthplace Usyoot, or Suyoot (commonly pronounced Asyoot), in Upper Egypt.

I should hope, in impressing the heholder with some degree of veneration. The attitudes are peculiarly striking and expressive ; and the solemn demeanour of the worshipper, who, even in the busy market-place, appears wholly abstracted from the concerns of the world, is very remarkable. The practice of praying in a public place is so general in the East, and attracts so little notice on the part of Muslims, that we must be charitable, and must not regard it as a result of hypocrisy or ostentation.

LETTER II. Alexandria, July, 1842

My dear Friend,

We find little to interest us in this place, excepting by association with bygone times ; therefore our stay will not be long. But I will give you concisely an account of all that has excited our curiosity.

I am not disappointed in Alexandria (or, as it is called by the natives, El-Iskendereeyeh), for I did not imagine it could possess many attractions. It is built upon a narrow neck of land, which unites the peninsula of Pharos to the continent, and thus forms a double harbour, as did anciently the causeway, which, from its length of seven stadia, was called the Heptastadium.

The ground which is occupied by the modern town has been chiefly formed by a gradual deposit of sand on each side of the Heptastadium ; and the present situation is more advantageous for a commercial city than the ancient site. The houses are generally built of white calcareous stone, with a profusion of mortar and plaster. Some have the foundation walls only of stone, and the superstructure of brick. They generally have plain or projecting windows of wooden lattice-work ; but the windows of some houses, viz., those of Europeans, the palaces of the Pasha, the Governor of Alexandria, and a few others, are of glass. The roofs are flat and covered with cement. There is little to admire in the interior architecture of the houses, excepting that they have a substantial appearance. Many ancient columns of granite and marble have been used in the construction of the mosques and private dwellings.

The water here is far from good ; the inhabitants receive their supply from the cisterns under the site of the ancient city (of which I must tell you by and by). These are filled by subterranean aqueducts from the canal during the time of the greatest height of the Nile ; but in consequence of the saline nature of the soil through which it passes from the river, the water is not good. Almost every house has its cistern, which is filled by means of skins borne by camels or asses ; and there are many wells of brackish water in the town.

As the northern coast of Egypt has no harbour, excepting those of Alexandria, it is a place of considerable importance as the emporium and key of Egypt; but otherwise it appears to me in no respect a desirable residence, and around it nothing but sea and desert meets the eye, excepting here and there the house of a rich man, and scattered in every direction extensive mounds of rubbish. Ancient writers have extolled the salubrity of the air of Alexandria. This quality of the air was attributed, according to Strabo, to the almost insular situation of the city, the sea being on one side, and the lake Mareotis on the other. The insalubrity of the climate, of later years, has been regarded as the result of the conversion of the lake into a salt marsh. The English army, in 1801, made a cut by which the water of the sea was admitted from the lake of Aboo- Keer into the bed of the lake Mareotis ; and the operation was repeated by Mohammed 'Alee in 1803, and again by the English in 1807 : on each occasion, as you will have supposed, military policy dictated the measure ; and as soon as the object in view had been attained, the gap was speedily closed, as it cut off the supply of fresh water from Alexandria by interrupting the course of the canal. While the communication between the two lakes remained open, it was not found that the climate of Alexandria was at all improved ; and the evaporation of the waters of the lake Mareotis afterwards must have had a pernicious effect. The damp and rain during the winter here, and the heavy dew at night throughout the year, have a particularly baneful influence. Cases of fever are very general ; and it is always observed that this town is one of the places where the plague makes its appearance many days earlier than in the interior of Egypt. With all these objections to Alexandria as a place of residence, it is wonderful that any persons should prefer it, and consider the climate more agreeable than that of the valley of the Nile, which all allow to be so salubrious.