A year in Europe ...

Chapter I. Incidents Of The Voyage

A storm — The Persia — The passengers — A wreck — A fog — Worship — "The cerrrclc" — Sunrise— Anchorage — An attack of Bacchus — An arrest — A fatal accident — A warning to smokers — Warm reception on shore 17

Chapter II. Matters And Things In Liverpool

Docks and shipping — .Historical and architectural — The Rev. Thomas Raffles, D.D. — The Rev. Hugh M'Neil, D.D. — Charitable institutions — Schools and societies — Libraries and museums — William Roscoe — Mr. Thackeray 26

Chapter III. A Week In London

Railway travel — Greatness of London — A morning mist — Our lodgings — Charges — Cab-drivers — Servants — The poor — Westminster Abbey — Gothic architecture — New Parliament buildings — British Museum — The Tower — Dr. Cumming — Mr. Spurgeon , 36

Chapter IV. Beginning The Continent

Dinner at Dover — Crossing the Channel — Calais — Cologne — The Cathedral — Shrine of the Three Kings — Church of Saint Ursula — Dom Glocke — Other churches— Historical — Railway casualty — Serious mistake — Dresden — Romanism and Royalty — Frauenkirche — English worship 52

Chapter V. En Route For Venice

Saxon Switzerland — Speaking German — Smoking and smokers — Vienna — Baden — The Semmering — Valley of the Mur — Gratz — Cave of Adelsberg — The dreary Karst — Trieste — Across the Adriatic — Venetian fog 65

IV CONTENTS.

CHAPTER "VI.

THE QUEEN OF THE ADRIATIC.

Origin of the city — The Duomo — The Campanile — Pino prospect — Piazza and Piazzetta — The Ducal Palace — The Library — The Dungeons — Churches — The Rialto — ArtesiaD Wells — Adieu 75

Chapter VII. Milan And Its Marvels

Triumphal entry— The cathedral— The roof— The tower— Historical sketch of the city — St. Ambrose — San Carlo Borromeo 85

Chapter VIII. To The Eternal City

Beautiful country — Another peep into the night-gowns — Novara — View of the Alps — Battle-fields — Alessandria — Crossing the Apennines — Genoa — English chapel — Seeing the city — Christopher Columbus — The cathedral — A relic — Leghorn — Monte Nero — Italian names — Civita Vecchia — Gasperoni and the Pope — Tete-a-tete with a priest — "A friend in need" — The diligence — Rome 96

Chapter IX. First Days In Rome

Seeking apartments — Settled, unsettled, and resettled — The Sabbath — Priestly despotism — A little leaven — Street spectacles— Blessings for beasts — Beggars — Panorama-lecture — The city of the Ctesars — The city of the Popes 108

Chapter X. Vettura To Terracina

Troublesome Facchino — Across the Campagna — Albano — La Riccia — Velletri — Cisterna — Cora and Norma — A race for bajocchi — Pontine Marshes — Foro Appio — Forward again — Monte Circello — Terracina 122

Chapter XI. "washington Irving Outdone

A wild story of the Alps — A tender story of Mount Anxur 133

Chapter XII. Journey Resumed And Finished

Wayside glimpses — Pondi — Ttri — Cicero's tomb and Formian villa — Extensive prospect — Gaeta — Water-nymphs — Valley of the Liris — Sant' Agata— Sessa — Capua — Aversa — Naples — History — Population — Trade — Fortifications 154

CONTENTS. V

Chapter XIII. Napoli La Bella

Environs — Villa Reale — Chiese de Partu — Poetry — A picture — Burying in churches — Grotta di Posilipo— Tomb of Virgil— The cathedral— Church of St. Paul— Other churches — Royal Palace — Capodimonte — The Camaldoli 168

Chapter XIV. Mount Vesuvius

The ascent — The summit — Ancient condition — Grand eruption of A.D. 79 — Constant changes — Other eruptions — View from the top — Descent — Various impressions. 179

Chapter XV. The Buried Cities

Museo Borbonico — Works of art — Domestic articles — Herculanenm — The theatre — " New excavation" — Pompeii — Temples — " Street of Abundance" — Theatre — Miscellaneous objects — Via Appia — Villa of Diomede 192

Chapter XVI. The Sorrentine Promontory

Nocera — La Cava — Beautiful scenery — The convent — Charming drive — Amalfl — Its history — Beggars and begging — Wild night-scene — Monte Sant' Angelo — Courage, maccaroni, and cheese — Glorious prospect — Castellamare — Plain of Sorrento — The town and its antiquities — Poetic curiosity 205

Chapter XVII. A Classical Excursion

Punta di Posilipo — Bagnoli — Nisida — Pozzuoli — Monte Nuovo — Lago d'Avorno — View from the cliff — Curna? — Balse — Promontorium Misenum — The Solfatara — Lago d'Agnano — Grotta del Cane — Fuorigrotta — Frightful assault — Caserta — Capua — Adieu to Naples 219

Chapter XVIII. The Cradle And The Throne Of Rome

The Palatine and the Domus Aurea — Present appearance — The Capitol — Its destruction — Its restoration — Temple of Jupiter — Its influence and utility — Present buildings — Forum Romanum — Julian Forum — Augustan Forum — Forum of Nerva — Forum of Trajan — Fora Venalia — Temple of Peace — Flavian Amphitheatre.... 231

Chapter XIX. Miscellaneous Antiquities

Millearium Aureum — Via Appia— Other Roman roads— Cloacaj — Aqueducts — Fountains— Therma? of Diocletian — Thermae of Titus — Thermse of Caracalla — Thermos of Agrippa, of Constantine. of Alexander Severus — Circus Maximus — Circus of Maxentius — Temple of Quirinus — Temple of the Sun — Porticoes 243

VI CONTENTS.

Chapter XX. The Tiber And The Campus M A R T Itt S

The fame of the Tiber — Its reputation vindicated — The Campus Martius — Its ruined structures — Mausoleum of Augustus — Mausoleum of Hadrian — Roman architecture — Its characteristics — Its history — Borromini and his school — Reflections.. 257

Chapter XXI. Historic Notices

Home under the emperors — Extent of the city— Estimate of population — Vice and luxury — Gothic devastation — Feuds of the nobles — Rome of the middle ages — Pillage by the imperial troops — Papal restorations and improvements— Sixtus the Fifth — Subsequent popes — French occupation under Napoleon — Pio Nono 272.

Chapter XXII. Basilica Vaticantjs

View from a distance — View from the piazza — The interior — The roof — The dome — The ball 289

Chapter XXIII. Roman Ecclesiology

Influence of Borromini upon the style of sacred architecture — Church of St. Clement — San Pietro in Vincoli — San Martino e San Sylvestro — Santa Cecilia in Trastevera — San Pietro in Montorio— Santa Maria in Trastevera — San Lorenzo — -II Gesu — Ara Coeli — Santa Maria Maggiora — San Giovanni in Laterano — San Paolo Fuori la Mura — Sant' Onofrio — Santa Maria ad Martyres — San Stephano Rotondo 299

Chapter XXIV. Palaces And Villas

Roman palaces — Palazzo Doria — Palazzo Ruspoli — Palazzo Corsini — Palazzo Barbarini — Palazzo Borghese — Palazzo Farnese — Palazzo Colonna — Palazzo Spada — Palazzo Pontificio — Palazzo Vaticano — Suburban villas — Villa Farnese — A r illa Negroni — Villa Panifilidoria — Villa Madama — Villa Borghese — Similarity of these villas 314

Chapter XXV. Antemne And Fidene

Solitary ramble on the Campagna — Interesting view — Fierce dogs — A ruin — Walk to Antemne — Charcoal sketch — A soldier artist — Site of the city — Great battle-ground — Ponte Salaro — Scene of Nero's suicide — Necropolis and citadel of Fidene — Historical sketch 324

CONTENTS. Vll

Chapter XXVI

Historical sketch — Our visit — The Campagna — Isola Farnese — Antonio Taleri — Tarpeian Rock — Utter desolation — Ponte Sodo — Necropolis — Painted tomb — Forum of Roman Municipium — Columbaria — Second and third visits — Additional discoveries — Serpents — Piazza d'Armi — Temple of Juno — La Scaletta — Grotta Campana — Return to Rome 335

Chapter XXVII. Trip To Tivoli

Basilica of San Lorenzo — "Wayside glimpses— The Solfatara — Tomb of Plautius — "Villa of Adrian — Ancient Tibur — Modern Tivoli — Temples of Vesta and the Sybil — Roman villas — Pleasant prospects — An Italian tempest — Return to Rome 355

Chapter XXVIII. The Alban Mount

Strada Ferrata to Frascati — Antonio — Villa Rufinella — Tusculum — Cicero's Villa — The Alban Lake — Alba Longa — Emisario — Ruins of Roman villas — Castel Gondolpho — La Biccia— II rosignuolo — Lanuvium — A priest at play — Nemi — Floating palace — Monte Cavo — Return to Rome 364

Chapter XXIX. La Chiesa Del Gesu

Excursion — Churches of Sant' Agnesia and Santa Constantia — Mons Sacer — Catacombs of Sant' Alessandro — Tombs and Columbaria — Church of Domine Quo Vadis — Catacombs of San Calistro and San Sebastiano — Sepulchre of Cecilia Metella — Miscellaneous perambulations— La Chiesa del Gesu — The music — The sermon — The collection — The illumination — The effect — Disinterested benevolence — Remarks on preaching— Release from purgatory — Rome is finished 379

Chapter XXX. From Rome Toflorence

Last view of St. Peter's — Monte Soracte — Civita Castellana — Camillus and the Schoolmaster — The Umbrian Hills — Ocricoli — Narni — Terni and its Falls — Short method with beggars — Spoletto — The Clitumnus — Foligno — Spello — Santa Maria Degli Angel — Assisi — Saint Francis and his Order — Grotta Dei Volumui — The Etruscans — Perugia — Battle of Thrasymenus — The Papal frontier — Brigands 395

Chapter XXXI. The City Op Flowers

The beauty of Florence — Comparison with Rome — Cathedral and Campanile — Other interesting objects and localities — Poetry — Hiram Power — Fine arts — Rape of the Sabines — Ufiizi gallery — Michael Angelo— Pitti palace — The Flying Ass — Agricultural fair — Blasphemy of art 411

Vlll CONTENTS.

Chapter XXXII. Hurrygraphic Miscellanea

Environs of Florence — Pisa — Grand illumination — Past and present — Leghorn — Pratolina — Summit of the Apennines — Covigliajo — Miniature volcano — Poveri Infelice — Harvest wages — Mountain scenery — Bologna — Ferrara — Padua — Venice again — The Peter Martyr — line churches — Solemn stillness of the city — Across Lombardy — The picturesque — Farewell to Italy — The Alps — The Tete Noire — Magnificent Iris — From Mont Blanc to London 422

Chapter XXXIII. Metropolitan Tea-parties

Forty-ninth cousin — Illustrious ancestry — Laying of a foundation-stone — Tea-party number one— Tea-party number two> — Tea-party number three — Tea-party number four — Tea-party number five — Tea-party number six — Tea-party number seven — Tea-party number eight — Anecdote of Mr. Spurgeon 437

Chapter XXXIV. Pulpit Celebrities

Croly — Melvill — Hamilton — Sketch of the late Edward Irving — Critical estimate of "the modern Whitefield" 456

Chapter XXXV. Pleasant Varieties

The Browns — Richmond Hill — Thomson — Bushy Park — Hampton Court — Cardinal Wolsey — Royal residents — Varieties — Great Western Railway — Official dignity — Clevedon — Myrtle Cottage — Promenade and prospect — Clevedon Court — Wrington — Weston Super Mare — Interesting antiquities 475

Chapter XXXVI. Saunterings In Somersetshire

Tender recollections — Uphill — The old church — Ancient fortifications — The Steep Holmes — A legend — The Flat Holmes — Bleadon Hobbs's boat — Lympsham church and rectory — Brent Knoll — Delightful view — Burnham and the rest 492

Chapter XXXVII. Heart -re Cords

Home of my childhood — Interesting colloquy — Across the daisy-fields to Lympsham — The Wesleyan chapel — Another colloquy— The parish church — The churchyard and its occupants — An old friend — East Brent church — South Brent church — An evening scene— The Burnham Bells — "Hail, Columbia!" 505

A YEAE IN EUROPE.

Chapter I. Incidents Op The Voyage

A STORM — THE PERSIA — THE PASSENGERS — A WRECK — A FOG — WOR- SHIP "THE CERRRCLE" SUNRISE ANCHORAGE AN ATTACK OP

BACCHUS AN ARREST A FATAL ACCIDENT A WARNING TO SMOK- ERS — WARM RECEPTION ON SHORE.

To break the dull monotony

Of an Atlantic trip, Sometimes, alas ! we ship a sea,

And sometimes see a ship.

Frances Osgood.

It was past midday, on the sixth of December, 1856, when we took tender leave of our friends in Charleston, and stepped on board the steamship Nashville, as happy and hopeful a triad as ever embarked for a voyage. The wind blew rough and cold from the north-east, and dull leaden clouds hung over the sea, prophetic of a stormy passage, with gastric tribulation. And well did Boreas redeem his pledge, and large was the tribute which we severally paid to Neptune. Seldom, I ween, without actual shipwreck, have three seafarers suffered more in three days than we. But amidst it all, hope hung the heavens with rainbows, and every billow blossomed as it broke. Sallie beard Mozart's Zauber-Flote in tbe wailing of the winds, and steeped her soul in seas of Grerman melody. Jennie saw Raffaelle's Transfiguration of the Redeemer, or Domenichino's Communion of Saint Jerome, in every cloud that sailed across the sky; and Venuses, and Apollos, and Mercurys, and Jupiters, constantly springing from the surf. As for the scribe, while he lay in the slumberous delirium of the mal de mer, or looked out from his little window upon the seething floods, every surge became a Brent-Knoll, and every sound of the waters brought the sweet murmur of Burnham Beach, and the wind that so fiercely contested our progress seemed odorous with the breath of cowslips from Lympsham, and primroses from Bleadon, and wallflowers from his grandmother's garden.

On the morning of the ninth we are in New York, early enough to secure good state-rooms in the Persia, and enjoy an evening with Bishop Janes and his family, and some hours with sundry other friends of former years ; and at six the next evening, under a fair breeze and a full moon, with a sea as calm as the Cayuga, we stand bravely out to the broad Atlantic. How majestically beautiful is this floating palace, three hundred and ninety feet long, and built in four compartments, any one of which is deemed sufficient to keep her afloat if the others should fill with water ! On the deck, at the table, in the state-rooms, how admirable is the order observed, inspiring in the passengers a delightful confidence of security, and giving an attractiveness even to the sea ! Her population, exclusive of officers, sailors, and servants, is a hundred and seventy souls, chiefly English, Irish, and Scotch, a few French and German, with a sprinkling of New England salt. There is a Roman Catholic bishop on board — quite plethoric enough for the profession — a talkative, intelligent, and altogether agreeable man ; with his brother, a well-informed gentleman, but rather too frank for

INCIDENTS OF THE VOYAGE. 19

a Jesuit, who eight or ten years ago accompanied the enterprising prelate on his "American mission," in the character of a priest, " rather by way of frolic than otherwise," and appears to have kept up his clerical fun ever since. We have also Mr. Osgood, the American artist, to our company - } a man of genial mood and various knowledge, with a history which ought to be written ; attended by his wife, an amiable lady, who has enjoyed the advantages of extensive travel. Opposite us at the table sit three British officers from Canada, one of them a son of the Lord Primate of Ireland, two of them well freighted with incidents of the Crimean campaign, and all of them overflowing with genuine Irish wit. A lady who has evidently seen something of the world, and is now returning to her home in the land of potatoes and of hearts, affords us much amusement with the accounts she gives us of her countrymen, whom she very seriously pronounces " the most generous, the most eloquent, and the most deceitful people in the world." Last, though not least, if you may judge from the attention shown him, especially by officers and stewards of the ship, here is Tom Thumb, alias Charles Stratton, nearly twenty years old, but less than three feet high, and as diminutive in intellect as in stature, with his mother, brother-in-law, and a fiscal agent, on his way to. England, where he is to spend the next two years in exhibiting his insignificance.

Few were the incidents of our voyage. Some of us, chiefly the ladies, were pretty well occupied, especially when the weather was a little rough, with their own personal matters ; and with the rest, conversation and reading made the time pass pleasantly. On the evening of the third day out we passed the hull of a large schooner, dismasted and apparently abandoned of her crew ; but did not pause, I know not why, to investigate her condition. On the Banks of Newfoundland, as generally happens, we were enveloped in a dense fog, through which a sail could not possibly have been seen a hundred yards ; yet the Persia never slackened her speed, but two men with tin horns at the bows blew perpetual warning to whatever might chance to be in our way, and every fifth minute the great steam-whistle sent terrific cautions over the deep.

The Sabbath dawned. Worship, according to the ritual of Her Majesty's Church, must be performed on board Her Majesty's steamships. But in this instance, where is the clergyman ? There is none, and the captain must officiate. All hands are summoned, by the tolling of the bell, to the long dining-saloon. Most of the passengers are present, and as many of the sailors and stewards, I suppose, as can be spared from duty, making in all about three hundred persons. The bishop and the frolicking priest are not of the company, though evidently they ought, in all consistency, to recognize the principle which ignores the clerical character of the present scribe. We are all furnished with prayerbooks, and the service is solemnly read, and the responses are general and hearty. In the midst of the prayers, the lay-parson very properly interpolates the petition of the Protestant Episcopal Church for "the President of the United States, and all others in authority." Then follows a sermon from Dr. Blair : " Boast not thyself of to-morrow, for thou knowest not what a day may bring forth." Very appropriate, certainly; but no one can deny that Captain Judkins prays better than he preaches ; and I flatter myself, all ungowned as I am, I might have read that sermon quite as well myself. A very serious thought it is, that never in this world shall we all worship together again ; and most sincerely is the prayer breathed, at least by some of the worshippers, that we may all hereafter meet in heaven.

Travellers on shipboard have often to pay for their inexperience. One day I went to the bow, and stood looking

INCIDENTS OP THE VOYAGE. 21

out over the sea. When I turned around, a sailor stood at my side, with a wrinkle of ineffable mischief in his face. "D'ye see, Serrr," said he, pointing to a chalk line which he had drawn around me upon the deck, " I've put ye in the cerrrcle !" "0 no," I replied, "that is not a circle — only a semicircle." "Faith," rejoined he, "and sure it isn't the likes of yer Honor that'll be getting off in that way : I thought yer Honor wouldn't mind giving a pore fellow the price of a terrrkey for Christmas." "And what is the price of a turkey ?''" I demanded. " 0, the matther of a dollar in Leverpole, or a dollar and a quarther for a fat one." I handed him fifty cents. " Indade, yer Honor," said he, with something akin to a sigh, "and ye wouldn't be afther putting us off with half a dollar : it isn't like yer counthry entirely." " But I fear you will spend that for whiskey," I answered. " I'm sure I never dhrinks a dhrop, yer Honor, nor haven't for these seven years agone; and besides, I've got a wife and fower children in Corrrk." For his eloquence, more than his wit, I duplicated the fifty cents ; and enjoyed the giving quite as much, I doubt not, as he the receiving.

It was the last morning of our voyage. A calmer sea, and a clearer sky, could not well be imagined. We were gliding along the coast of the Emerald Isle. With one of the young officers aforesaid, I went on deck to look at the fragments of an ancient castle. At the same moment the sun on the opposite side began to emerge from the watery horizon, clothed with so soft a radiance that the eye could gaze steadily upon him without pain. When about one-third of his form became visible, a ship under full sail, but so distant as to appear only a minute speck, passed slowly across his disk. Till it entered the edge of the sun, it was invisible; and as soon as its little transit was accomplished, became invisible again — an emblem of many things, chiefly of human life.

During the following night we took a pilot, and before morning dropped anchor in the Mersey; having been just nine days and two hours, allowing for difference of time, between New York and Liverpool. What would have been thought of this fifty years ago ? When I first crossed the ocean, in 1825, we were nearly six weeks from Bristol to Quebec, and it was not regarded as a very tedious voyage. Verily, a little more speed, with the addition of the Sub- Atlantic Telegraph, would almost practically realize the Apocalyptic prophecy, "There shall be no more sea;" and whoever has experienced the horrors of sea-sickness — the true hydrophobia — or seen those whom he loves writhing in the exquisite indifference of that detestable epidemic of the deep, will surely say, "Amen."

Two of our fellow-passengers had evidently suffered, during the night, a violent attack from Bacchus, for they were still reeling from the effect of his blows. One of them was a son of the Green Isle ; and our female friend, his shrewd countrywoman, satisfactorily accounted for his condition, by assuring us, as Miss Edgeworth had done before, that " drunkenness is the natural state of the Irish." Another, who was slightly convalescent, appeared drooping and melancholy. I inquired after the cause. One of the company replied : " That gentleman sat up all night watching for the pilot." "And did he see him V said I. " yes," answered my informant, " he saw two." This was a countryman of ours.

Before we went ashore, an officer, who had been sent for by the captain, came on board, and arrested one of our fellow-passengers as a swindler. He had embarked at New York without paying his fare ; and when discovered, three days afterward, had but one and sixpence in his pocket. He called himself Baron somebody, and professed to have been an attachd of the Prussian Legation at Washington; but as

INCIDENTS OP THE VOYAGE. 23

he could give no satisfactory account of his condition, he was sent forward to the second cabin. His manner was very peculiar, and some suspected his mental sanity, while others thought he must be laboring under some great sorrow, with which a stranger might not intermeddle. The captain, however, seemed to be of a different opinion ; and as the poor man had neither friends nor money, he was sent to prison, and I never learned the sequel.

Another case was still more melancholy. The second officer of the ship, soon after we came to anchor, received an accidental blow ; and on Monday they bore him to his grave. Pie was a handsome young man, noble-spirited, and full of genial soul. I had often admired his fine open countenance during the voyage, and had a pleasant chat with him the night before the accident, in which he spoke freely of his plans for the future, and dwelt with manifest pleasure upon his prospect of success ; but a sudden blight fell upon his blooming hopes, and his sun went down at noon j and how forcibly returned to me the text to which we had listened a few days before ! " Boast not thyself of to-morrow, for thou knowest not what a day may bring forth."

Of course we could not land till our baggage had passed'' the scrutiny of the custom-house officials. These worthy functionaries, however, were early at their posts, and fully sustained their reputation. 0, the pity, to see piles of manufactured tobacco, and parcels of fragrant cigars, brought forth from their concealment among soiled linen and New York Heralds, ruthlessly turned out upon the deck, and remorselessly taxed from ten to twenty shillings per pound ! Verily, it was almost enough to make one subscribe to the long-exploded maxim : " Honesty is the best policy." And then, the unprofitable rage of some of the innocent proprietors, who of course never thought of violating or evading the law, though they had ten times the quantity of tobacco

■ and cigars that the law allows free of duty; and the silent

shame with which others of them opened their unwilling

wallets, and gathered up their costly luxuries — ah ; was it

not " a caution I" Sensible reader, hadst thou been there,

thou wouldst have forsworn Havanas for ever !

But tell me, ye travelled sages, why are these inquisitors of contraband wares so particular in the examination of ladies' apparel ? Does the fact imply a tacit imputation upon the honesty of the sex ? It was so here ; it was so everywhere upon the continent. Frequently, when the scribe's baggage passed unopened, that of his fair travelling companions was quite narrowly scrutinized. In the present instance, however, we came off much better than some of the rest. Whether it was because I waited patiently till they were weary of their cruel work, or because our trunks had a look of honest leanness, and ourselves no odor of the Indian weed ; for some reason or another, these faithful servants of Her Majesty gave us very little trouble, opening only one of our three pieces, and peeping into the folds of the first robe de chambre they discovered.

Before ten the ordeal was over, a passport pasted on every box and parcel, and we prepared to set foot upon Her Majesty's soil. But the excitement of the morning, in addition to her recent sea-sickness, had proved too much for poor Sallie's nervous system, and she was found in violent spasms upon her state-room floor. This accident delayed our landing an hour or two ; but when at length we landed, most marvellous were the courtesies which we received. Monsieur la Grenouille is generally reputed the politest specimen of the genus homo; but if this was a true exhibition of the character of John Bull, his neighbor across the Channel must certainly yield him the palm. No sooner had our sole-leather touched the wharf, than each of us was assailed by at least a dozen persons, men and boys ; every one of whom

INCIDENTS OF THE VOYAGE. 25

seemed ready, from excess of kindness, to tear us to pieces, or swallow us alive. Such pushing and pulling, such thrusting and thumping, I certainly never saw in my life ; with all sorts of menacing and reviling; with noises articulate, and noises inarticulate; but no bowie-knives, nor shillelahs. Taking Sallie by the two arms, we ran the gauntlet for about two hundred yards, and took refuge in the first carriage we came to ; but before we had time to recover breath for mutual congratulation on our fortunate escape, a dozen heads were thrust in at the windows, vociferously demanding pay for procuring hacks, and carrying trunks, and all sorts of services which we had not received. Jehu saved us by driving suddenly away, and left the clamorous throng gazing and running and shouting after us ; but for which merciful incivility of Jehu, there is no telling what might have been our fate. Somehow, as by whirlwind — I never did understand the precise manner — we soon reached the Adelphi, where we found ourselves in comfortable quarters, and where we remained forty-eight hours, and had all our wants supplied, for the moderate sum of £5.11s.6d — a little more than $26.50 !

2G A YEAR IN EUROPE.

Chapter II. Matters And Things In Liverpool

DOCKSS AND SHIPPING — HISTORICAL AND ARCHITECTURAL — THE REV. THOMAS RAFFLES, D. D. THE REV. HUGH M'NEIL, D. D. CHARI- TABLE INSTITUTIONS SCHOOLS AND SOCIETIES LIBRARIES AND

MUSEUMS WILLIAM ROSCOE MR. THACKERAY.

His words had such a melting flow,

And spoke the truth so sweetly well, They dropped like heaven's serenest snow,

And all was brightness where they fell. '

The two things most likely to strike a stranger on entering Liverpool are its docks and its shipping. The former extend along the right bank of the Mersey nearly or quite five miles, and have cost in their construction several millions sterling. The area of one of them is ten acres, and of another fifteen. They are so united that vessels may pass from one to another without entering the river. The Huskison Dock, for the ocean steamers, is of great strength and vast extent. The shipping, crowded together, and packed as closely as possible, along the whole line, looks like a forest stripped of its verdure. The number of ships belonging to the port is reckoned at twenty-two thousand, their aggregate tonnage at four and a half millions of tons ; and the exports are said to exceed by many millions not

MATTEES AND THINGS IN LIVERPOOL. 27

only those of London ; but those of all the other ports of the kingdom.

The history of Liverpool is full of interest. The name is derived from Lower Pool. As a borough, it is about seven hundred years old. It has a population of nearly or quite five hundred thousand. A hundred and fifty years ago there was only one person in it — Madam Clayton — who kept a carriage. The first public conveyance for passengers went hence to London in the year 1757, starting once a week, and performing the journey in four days. Some five or six railway trains now go every day, measuring the distance in seven hours. There was formerly a castle here and a tower, no traces of either of which are now to be found. The origin of the former is not known, but it is supposed to have been of very great antiquity. In John Howard's time it was used as a prison, and he visited its inmates as an angel of mercy.