Front matter
Glass_ ^ ^ V
HISTORY
OF
Preface
'Tis a great misfortune that most of our travellers who go to this vast continent in America, are persons of the meaner sort, and generally of a very slender education; who being hired by the Merchants to trade among the Indions, in which voyages they often spend several years, are yet at their return, incapable of giving any reasonable account of what they met withal in those remote parts; tho' the Country abounds with Curiosities worthy of a nice Observation. In this point, I think, the French outstrip us.
First, By their Numerous Clergy, their Missionaries being obedient to their Superiiors in the highest degree, and thiat Obedience being one great article of their Vow, and strictly observed amongst all their 'order.
Secondly, They always send abroad some of their Gentlemen in Company with the Missiionaries, who, upon their arrival, are ordered out into the wilderness, to miake discloveries, and to acquaint themselves with the savages of America; and are obliged to keep a strict Journal of 'all the passages they meet withal in order to present the same, not only to their glovernoirs and fathers, but likewise to their friends and relations in France; which is industriously spread about that Kingdom, to their advantage. For their Monarch bein?' a very goiod judge of Men's Deserts, does not often let m)oney or interest make men of Parts give Place to others of less Worth. This breeds an Honorable Emulation ajmongst them, to outdio one another, even in Fatigues, and Dangers; whereby they gain a giood Correspondence with the Indians, and acquaint themselves with their Speech and Custccns; and so make oonsidera'ble Discoveries in a short time. Witness, their Journals from Canada, to the Mississippi, and its several Branches, where they have effected great matters, in a few years.
Having spenv :raost of my Time, during my Eight Tears Abode in Carolina, in travelling! I not only surveyed the Sea-coast and thiose parts which are already inhabited by the Christians; but likewise view'd a spatious Tract of Land, lying betwixt the Inhabitants and the Ledges of the Mountains, from whence our noblest rivers have their Rise, running towards the Ocean, where they water as pleasant a Country as any in Europe; the Discovery of which, being never yet made Publick, I have In the FWlowing Sheets given you a faithful Account thereof, wherein I have laid down everything with Impartiality, and Truth, which is indeed, the Duty of every Author (and preferable to a Smooth Stile, aceolmpany'd with Falsities and Hyperboles.
Great Part of this pleasant and heaJthful country is inhabited by none but Savages, who covet a Christian Neigh'borhlood, flor the Advantage of Trade, and Enjoy all the Comforts of Life, free from Care and Want.
But not to Amuse my Readers any longer w^th the Encomium of Carolina, I refer 'em to my Journal, and other more particular DescriDtibn of that Country and its Inhabitants, which they vill find after the ITatural History thereof, in which I have been very exact, and for Method's sake rang'd each Species under its distinct ami proper head.
Xll
To His Excellency WILLIAM LORD CRAVEN, Palatine; THE MOST NOBLE, HENRY DUKE
of Beaufort; THE RIGHT HONble MAURICE
ASHLEY, ESQ: SIR JOHN COLLETON, BARO- NET, JOHN DANSON, ESQ;
and the rest of the True and Absolute LORDS PROPRIETORS
of the PROVINCE OF CAROLINA in
AMERICA.
MY LORDS, As Debts of Gratitude ought Most punctually tlo be paid, so where the Debtor is uncapable of Payment, Acknowledgments ought, a,t least, to be made. I cannot, in the least, pretend Ho .retaliate Your Lordship's Favours to me, but must further intrude on that Goodness of which I have a'lready had so good Experience, by Laying these Sheets at Your Lordship's Ftet, where they beg Protection, as baving nothing to recomtoend them, but Tlruth; a Gift which every Auth^or may be Master of, if he will be.
I here present yiour Lordships with a Description of your own Country, for the most part, in her Natural Dress, and therefore less vitiated with Fraud and Luxury. A Country, whose Inhabitants may enjoy a Life of the Greatest Ease, and Satisfactiion, and pass away their Hours in solid Contentment.
Those Charms of Liberty and Right, the Darlings of an English Nature, which your Lordships Grant and Maintain, make you appear Noble Patrons in the Eyes of alU Men, and We a Happy People in a Foreiign Country; which niothing less than Ingratitude and Baseness can make us idisiown.
As Heaven has been Liberal in its Gifts, so are Yo-ir Lordships favourable Promoters of whatever may make xis an easy people; which I hope Your Lordships will continue to us and our Posterity, and that we and they miay always ackntowledge such favtours. by banishing from among us every Principal which renders Men factious and unjust, which is the Hearty Prayer of, lly Lords, Your Lordships Most obliged, miost humble, and most devoted servant,
JOHN LAWSON.
Introduction
In the Tear of 1700, when People flocked from all Parts of the Christian World, to see the Solemnity of the Grand Jubilee at Rome, my attention, at that Time, being- to Travel, I accidentally met with a Gentleman, who had been abroad, and was very well acquainted with the Ways of Living in Both Indies; of whom having made enquiry concerning Them, he assur'd me that Carolina was the best country I could go to; and that there then lay a Ship in the Thames in which I might have my Passage. I laid hold on this Opportunity, and was not long on Board, before we fell down the River, and sail'd to Cowes; where, having taken in some passengers we proceeded on our Voyage, till we sprung a-leak and were forc'd into the IsLands of Scillv. Here we spent about 10 days in refitting; in which time we had a good deal of Diversion in Pishing and Shooting on those Rocky islands. The inhabitants were very Courteous land civil, especially the Governor, to whose good Company and Favour we were very much obliged. Tbere is a Town on one of these Islands, where is good Entertainment for those who happen to come in, though the Dand is but mean, and Flesh-meat not plenty. They have good store of Rabbits, Quails and Pish; and you see at the poor Peoples Doors great Heaps of Perriwinkle-shells; those Fish being a great Part of their Food. On the first day of May, having a fair Wind at East, we put to sea, and were on the Ocean (without speaking to any vessel except a Ketch bound from New England to Barbadoes, laden with Horses, Fish and Provisions) 'till the latter end of July, when the Winds hung so much Sou'therly, that we could not get to our Port, but put into Sandy-hookbay, and went up to New York after a pinching voyage, Caus'd by our long Passiage.
We found at tha Watering-Place, a French Man of War. who had on Board 'Men and Necessaries to make a Colony, and wias intended for the Messessipni River, there to settle. The Oountrv of New York is very Pleasant in Summer, but in the Winter very cold, as all the Northern Plantations are. Their chief commodities are Provisions, Bread, Beer, Lumber and Fish in abundance; all which are very good, and some Skinis and Furs are henlce exported. The City Is govern'd by a Mayor, (as in England) is seated on an island, and lies very convenient for Tnade and Defence, having a regular Fort and well mounted with guns. The Buildings are genera i'- of a smaller sort of Flemish Brick, and of the Dutch fashion (except some few Houses;) they are all very firm and good work, and conveniently placed, oa is likewise the town, which gives a very pleasant prospect of the neigh:- boring Islands and Rivers. A good part of the Inhabitants are Dutch, in whose hands this Colonv once wias. After a Fort-night's stay here, we pu;t out from Sandyhook, and in 14 days after, arrived at Charlestown, the Metropolis of South Carolina, which is situate in 32, 45 North Latitude and admits of Large Ships to come over their Bar up to the Town, where is a very commodious Harbour, about 5 miles Distant from the Inlet, and stands on a point very convenient for trade, being Seated between- two pleasant and navigable Rivers. The Town has very regular and fair streets, in which are good buildings of Brick and Wood, and since my
XIV coming thence has had great additions of beautiful, Liarge Brick Budldings, besides a Strong Fort, and regular Forttificati'ons made to defend the town. The inhabitants by their Wise Management and Industry, have much improved the Countrv, which is in aa thriving Circumstances .at this Time, as any other Colon'y on the Continenit of English America, and is of more advantage to the Crown of Great Britain, than anv other of the more Northerly Pl'antations, (Virginia and Maryland excepted.) This Colony was at first planted by a genteel Sort of People, that were well acquainted with Trade, and had either Money or Pants to make good Use of the advantages that offer'd, as most of them have done, by raisiing themselves to great Estates and Posts of Honor, in this thriving settlement. Since the first Planters, abundance of French and others have gone over, and raised themselves to considerable Fortunes. They are very Neat in Packing and Shipping of their Commodities; which method has got them so great a character Abroad, that they generally oome to a good Market with their Commodities; when often times the Products of other Plantations, are forced to be sold at Lower Prizes. They have a considerable Trade both to Europe, and the West Indies, where^ by they became rich, and are Supply'd Tvith all things necessiary for Trade, and Genteel Living, which several other Places fall short of. Their co-habiting in a Town has drawn to them ingenious People of rruost Sciences, whereby they have Tutors amongst them that educate their Youth a-lamode.
Their Roads, with great Industry, are made very Good and Pleasant. Near the Town is built a fair Parsonagehouse, with necessary offices, and the Minister has a very considerable allowance from his Parish. There Is likewise a French Church in Town, of the Reform'd Religion, and sevenal Meeting Houses for dissenting Oongregations, who all emjov at this day an entire liberty of their Worship; the Constitution of This Government, allowing all Parties of well meaning Christians tlo enjoy a free Toleration and possess the same Priviledges, so long as they appear to behave themselves peaceably and well. It being the Lord's Proprietors Intent, that the inhabitants of Carolina should be as free from Oppression as any in the Universe; which doubtless they will, if their own differences amiongst themselves do not occasion the contrary.
They have a well-dlsciplin'd Militia; their Horse are most Gentlemen, and well mounted, and the best in America, and may equalize any In other parts; their Officers, both Infantry and Clavalry, generally appear in scarlet mountings, and as rich as in most Regiments belonging to the Grown, which shews the Richness and Grandeur of this Colony. They are a Fronteer, and prove such troublesome neighbors to the Spaniards, that they have ojice laid their town of St. Augustine in Ashes, and drove away their cattle; besides many Encounters and Ensragements, in which (they have defeated them, too tedious to relate here. Wh^all the French got by their Attempt against South Carolina, will hardly ever be ranked ■amongst their Victories; their Admiral Monville being glad to leave the Enterprize, and run awiay after he had suffered all the Loss and disgrace he was capable of receiving. They are Absolute Masters over the Indians, and carry so strict a hand over such as are within the Circle of their Trade, that none does the least Injury to any of the English, but he Is soon sent for and ' Dunished with Death or Otherwise, according to the nature of the fault. They have an entire friendship with the neighboring
OF NORTH CAROLINA.
XV
Indians of several Nations, which are a very warlike People, ever Faithful to the English, and have proved themselves Brave and True om all Occasions ; and are a great Help and Strength to this Colony. The Chief of the savage Nations have heretofore groaned under the Spanish Yoke, and having experienced their Cruelty, are become such mortal Enemies to that People, that they never give a Spaniard quarter; but generally, when they take any Prisoners (if the English be not near to prevent it) sculp them, that is to take their hair and Skin of their heads, wLich they often flea away, whilst the Wretch Is alive. Notwithsitanding the English have used all their Endeavors, yet they could never bring them to leave this Biarbaritv to the Spaniards'; who, as they allege, used to^ murder them, and their relationB, and make slaves of them to build their Forts and Towns.
This place Is m,ore plentiful in Money, than Most, or Indeed any of the Plantations on the Continent; besides they build a considerable number of Vessels of Cedar, and other Wood, with which they trade to Cuirassau and the West Indies; from one they bring money and from the other the Produce of their Islands, which yields a necessary Supply of both to the Colony. Their Stocks of Cattle are incredible, being from one to two thousand head in one man's Possession; these feed in the Savannas, and Other Grounds, and need no fodder in the winter. Their 'Mutton and Veal is good, and their Pork is not inferior to any in America. As for Pitch and Tar, none of the Plantations are comparable for affording the vast quantities of Naval Stores, as this Place does. There have been heretofore Some Discoveries of Rich Mines in the Mountanous Parts of this Country; but being remote from the present settlement, and the inhabitants not well versed in ordering minerals, they have been laid aside until a more fit opportunity happens. There are several noble Rivers and Rich Tracts of Land in their Lordships Dominions, lying to the Southward, which are yet uninhabited, besides Port Royal, a rare Harbour and Inlet, having many inhabitants thereon; which their Lordships have noiw made a port for Trade. This will be a most advantageous settlement, lying so commbdiously for Ships Coming from the Gulph, and the Richness of the Land, which is reported to be there. These more Southerly Parts will afford Oranges, Limons, Limes, and many other Fruits, which the Northerly Plantations yield not.
The Merchants of Carolina, are Fair, Frank Traders. The Gemtlemen seated in the country are very courteous, live very nobly in their Houses, and give very Genteel entertainments to all strangers and others that come to visit them. And since the Produce of S'outh and North Carolina Is the same, unless Silk, which this place produces great quantities of and very good. North Carolina having never made any Tryal thereof as yet, therefore I shall refer the Natural Produce of this Counltry, to that part which treats of North Carolina, whose productions are much the same. The Christian Inhabitants of both Colonies pretty equal, but the Slaves of South Carolina are far more in number than those in the North. I shall now proceed to relate my journey thro' the country, from this Settlement to the other, and then treat of the Natural History of Carolina, with other remarkable Circumstances which I have met with, during mv eight Years Abode in that Country.
LAWSON'S History of North Carolina,
Chapter I
On DecemJDer 28th. 1700, I be^an my voyage for (North Carolina) from Charles Town, being six Englishmen In company, with three Indian men and one woman, wife to our Indian Guide, having five miles from the Town to the Breach we went down In a large Canoe, that we had provided for our voyage thither, having the Tide of Ebb along with us; which was so far spent by that time we got down that we had not water enough for our Craft to go over, although we drew but two foot, or thereabouts. This bireach is a passage to a Marsh Lying to the Northward of Sullivan's Island, the Pilots having a lookout thereon, lying very comimodious for Mariners (on that coast) making a go'od Land-Mark, in so level a country, this Bar being difficult to hit, where an observation hath been wanting for a dav or two; Northeast winds bringing Great Fogs, Mists and Rains; which towards the cool months, October, November, and until the latter end of March, often appear in these Parts. There are three pilots to attend, and conduct shins over the Bar. The Harbour where the vessels generally ride, is against the Town, on Cooper's River, lying within a point which parts that and Ashley River, they being Land- Lock'd almost on all sides.
At 4 in the afternoon (at half flood) we pass'd with our canoe over the Breach, leaving Sullivan's Island on our Star board. The first Place we designed for, was Santee River, on which there is a colony of French Protestants, allow'd and encourag'd by the Lords Proprietors. At night we got to Bell's- Island, a poor spot on land, being aiboul ten miles round, where lived (at that time) a Bermudian, being employ'd here with a Bov. to look after a stock of cattle and Hogs, by the owner of this Island. One side of the roof of his house was thatched with Palmeto- Leaves, the other open to the heavens, thousands of musketoes and other troublesome insects, tormenting both Man and Beast inhabiting the island. The Palmeto trees, whose leaves growing onlv on top of the trees in the Shape of a Fan. and in a cluster, like a cabbage; this tree in Carolina, when at its utmost growth, is about 40 or 50 foot in height, and two foot through. It's worth mentioning, that the growth of the Tree is not perceivable in the Age of any Man, the experiment havinr been often tried in Bermudas, and else-
IvAwson's history where, which shows the slow growth of this veg-itable, the wood of it being porous and stringy, like stome Canes; the leaves thereof the Bermudians make womens hats, bokeets, baskets, and pretty dressing-boxes, a great deal being transported to Pensilvania, and other Northern Partst of America (where they do not grow) for the same manufacture. The people of Carolina make of the fans of this tree, brooms very serviceable to sweep their houses withal.
We took up our lodging this Night with the Bermudian; our entertainment was very indifferent; there being no fresh Water to be had on the Island.
The next Morning we set. awav thro' the Marshes; about noon we reached another island called Dix's Land, much like to the former, tho' larger; there lived an honest Soot who gave us the best protection his Dwelling afffforded, being well Provided of Oat-Meal, and Several dther effects he had found on that coast; which goods belonged to that unfortunate vessel, the Rising Sun, a Scotch Man-of-War, lately arrived from the litmus of Darien and cast away near the Bar of Ashley River, the September before, Capt. Gibson, of Glasco, then commanding her, who with above an hundred men then on Board her, were evevv Soul drown'd in that terrible Gust which then happen'd; most of the corps being taken up, were carefully interr'd by Mr. Graham, their Lieutenant, who happily was on shore during the tempest.
After Dinner we left our Scotch Landlord, and went that Night to the Noi^th East Point of the Island, It being dark ere we got there, our Canoe Strujck on a Sandbar neai' the Breakers, and were in Great Danger of our Lives; But (by God's Blessing) we got off safe to the Shore, where we lay all iiight.
In the iMorning we set forward on our inltended Voyage. About two a Clock we got to Bulls Island, which is about Thirty Miles long, and hath a great Number of both Cattel and Hogs uT>on it; the Cattel being very Wild, and the Hogs very Lean. These two last Islands belong to one Colonel Cary, an Inhabitant of South Carolina. Although it were Winter, yet we found such Swarms of Musketoes, and other troublesome Insects, that we got but little Rest that night.
The next Day we intended for a small Island on the other Side of Sewee-Bay, which joining to these Islands, Shipping might come to victual or careen; bu't there being such a burden of those Flies, that few or none cares to settle there; so the Stock thereon are r\in Wild. We were gotten about half way to Racoon Island, when there sprung up a tart Gale at N. W. which puts us in some danger of being cast away, the bay being rough, and there running great Seas between the two Islands, which are better than four Leagues asunder; a strong Current of Tide setting in and out. which made us turn tail to it, and got our Canoe right before the Wind, and came Safe into a Creek that is joining to the North End of Bulls Island. We sent our Indians to hunt, who brought us two Deers. which were verv poor, and their Maws full of large Grubs.
On the morrow we went and visited the Easternmost Side of this Island, it joining to the Ocean, and having very fair and Sandy Beaches, pav'd with innumerable sorts of curious pretty Shells, and very pleasant to the Eve. Amongst the Rest we found the Spanish Oyster Shell, whence come the Pearls. They are very large, and of a different Form from other Oysters; their Colour much resembles the Tortoise-Shell, when it is dress'd. There was left bv the Tide several strange Species of a mucili.gmous' slimy sub-
OF NORTH CAROLINA.
stance, though livinig, and very aptly mov'd at their First Appearanlce; yet, being left on the dry Sand. Cby the Beams of the Sun) soon exhale and Vanish.
At our return to our Quarters the Indians had killed two more I>eer. two wild Hogs, and three Raccoons, all very lean, except the Raccoons. We had great Store of Oysters, Conks, and Clamps, a Large sort of Cockles. These parts being very well furnished with Shell-Fish, Turtles of several Sorts, but few or none of the green, with other sorts of Salt-Water Fish, and in the Season, good Plenty of Fowl, as Curleus, Gulls, Gannets, and Pellicans. besides Duck and Mallard Geese, Swans, Teal, Widgeon, etc.
On Thursday Morning we left Bulls- Island, and went thro' the Creeks, which lie between the Bay and the Main Land. At noon we went on Shore, and Got our Dinner near a Plantation on a Creek having the full ProsDect of Sewee-Bay; we sent up to the House but none were at Home, but a Negro of whom our Messenger purchas'd some small quantity of Tobacco and Rice. We came to a deserted Indian Residence, cal'd Avendaugh-bough, where we rested that night.
The next day we entered Santee River's Mouth, where is Fresh water, ocicasion'd by the extraordinary Current that comes down continually. With hard Rowing we got two Leagues up the River, lying all night in a Swampy Piece of Ground, the Weather being so cold all that time, we were almost frozen ere Morning, leaving the Impressions of our Bodies on the wet ground. We set Forward very early in the Morning, to seek some better Quarters.
As we Row'd ud the River, we found the Land towards the Mouth and for about 15 miles up it. scarce anything but swamp and Percoarson. affording vast Ciprus-Tr©es, of which the French make Canoes, that will carry fifty or sixty barrels. After the T'ree is Moulded and Dug, they saw them in two pieces, and so put a Plank between, and a small Keel, to preserve them- from the oyster Banks, which are innumerable in the Creeks and Bays betwix the French settlement and Charles Town. They carry two Masts, and Bermudas Sails, which makes 'them very handy and fit for their purpose; for although their River fetches its first Rise from the Mountains, and continues a Current some Hundreds of Miles ere it disgorges itself, having no sound Bay or Sand Banks betwix the Mouth thereof and the Ocean. Notwithstanding all this, with the vast stream it affords at all Seasons, and the repeated Freshes it so often alarms the inhabitants with, by laving under Water Great Part of their Country, vet the Mouth is barr'd affording not above four or five foot Water at the Entrance. As we went up the River we heard a great Noise, as if two parties were engaged against each other, seeming exactly like small shot. When we approached nearer the Place, we found it to be some Sewee Indians firing the Canes Swamps, which drives out the Game, then taking their particular stands, kill great quantities of both Deer, Bear, Turkies. and what Wild Creatures the Pa;rts afford.
These Sewees have been formerly a large Nation, though now very much deicreased, since the English hath seated their Land, and all other Nations of Indians are observed to nartake of the same fate, where the Europeans come, the Indians being a people very apt to catch any Distemper they are afflicted withal. The Small-Pox has destroyed many thousands of these Natives, who no sooner than thev are attack'd with the violent fevers, and the Burning which attends the Distemper, fling themselves overhead in the Water, In the very extremity of the Disease,
■which shutting: up the pores, hinders a kindly evacuation of the Pestilential 'Matter, and drives it toack, by which means death most oommionlv ensues; not but in other Distempers which are epidemical, you may find among 'em Praxjtltioners that have extraordinary skill and Success in remioving those morbisick Qualities which afflict 'em, not often giolng above 100 yards from their abode for their Remedies, some of their chiefest physicians commonly carrying their Compliment of Drugs continually about them, which are Roots, Barks, Berries, Nuts, etc., that are strung upon a thread. So like a Poman^ der, the Physician wears them about Ms neick. An Indian hath been often found to heal an Englishman of a Malady, for the value of a 'Match Coat; which the ablest of our Bnerlish Pretenders in America after repeated Applications, have deserted the Patient as incurable. God having furpished every Country with speciflck Remedies for their peculiar Diseases.
Rum, a Liquor now so much in Use with them, that thev will part with the Dearest thing they have, to purchase it; and when they have got a little in their heads are the impatients Creatures Living, 'till they have enough to make them quite Drunk; and the Most miserable spectacles when they are so, some falling into the Fires, burn their Legs or Arms, contracting the sinews, become cripples all their Lifetime, others from Precipices break their bones and joints, with abundance of instances, yet none are so great to deter them from that accurs'd Practice of Drunkenness, though sensible how many of them (are by it) hurried into the other World before their Time — as themselves Oftentimes will confess. The Indians, I was now speaking of, were not content with the common Enemies that lessen and destroy their country-men, but Invented an infallible
Stratagem to purge their tribe, and reduce their Multitude into far less numbers. Their Contrivance was thus, as a Trader amongst them informed me.
They seeing several Ships coming in, to bring the English Supplies from Old England, one chief part of their Cargo being for a Trade with the Indians, some of the Craftiest of them had observed, that the Ships came always in at one place, which made them very oonlident that Way was the exact road to England; and seeing so many ships come thence they believed it could not be far thither, esteeming the English that were among them no better than cheats, and thought if they could carry the Skins and Furs they got themselves to England, which was inhabited with a better sort of People than those amongst them., that they should purchase twenty times the Value of every Pelt thev sold Abroad, in consideration of what rates thev sold for at Home. The intended barter was very well approved of, and after a general Consultation of the ablest Heads amonigst them, it was, Nemlne Contradicente, agreed upon, immediately to make an addition of their fleet, by building more canoes, and those to be of the best sort, and biggest Size, as fit for their intended Discovery. Some Indians were employed about making the Canoes, others to hunting, everyone to the Post he was most fit for. all Endeavors intending towards an able Fleet and Car go for Europe. The affair was carried on with a great deal of Secrecy and Expedition, so as in a Small Time they had gotten a Navy, Loading Provisdons, and hands ready to set sail, leaving only the Old, Impotent and Minors at Home till their successful return. The Wind presenting, they set up their mat sails, and were scarce out of sight when there rose a tempest, which it's supposed carried one part of these Indian Merchants, by Way of the other World,
OF NORTH CAROUNA.
whilst the others wiere taken up at Sea by an English SMo and sold for Slaves to the Islands. The remainder are better satisfied with their Imbecilities in such an undertaking', nothing affronting them more than to rehearse their Voyage to England.
Tliere being a small Current in Santee River caused us to make Small Way from our Oars. With hard rowing we goit that Night to Mons. Eugee's' House, which stands about fifteen Miles ud the River, being the first Christian Settlement we met withal in the Settlement, and were very courteously receiv'd by him and his wife.
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