The cruise of the Brooklyn. A journal of the principal events of a three years' cruise in the U. S. flag-ship Brooklyn, in the South Atlantic station ... Descriptions of places in South America, Africa, and Madagascar ...

Front matter

.V

I

THE

Contents

CHAPTEE I.

PAGE

The "Brooklyn" commissioned for the South Atlantic — Description of the Ship — List of Officers — The Official Inspection by the Inspecting Board — Departure from New York — The First Storm at Sea — Pleasant Voyage and Arrival at the Equator — The Grand Reception and Festival in Honor of His Majesty Neptune and the Queen — The Initiation Ceremony 13

Appendix

List of Officers and Crew on board the "Brooklyn," October 8, 1884 . 337

ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

Title and Medallion with View of the "Brooklyn" — Fac simile of a

" Silver Leaf" — A Leadsman in the Chains Heaving the Lead On the cover.

The " Brooklyn" and Table Mountain Frontispiece.

General View of Montevideo 21

Entrance to Rio de Janeiro 47

Camp Brooklyn — Transit of Venus Expedition ..... 99

Government Buildings at Montevideo — Plaza Independencia . . 119

Street in Cape Town — Railroad Depot and Commercial Exchange . . 152

General View of Zanzibar — The Sultan's Harem ..... 171

General View of Mozambique 192

Madagascar — Sakalava Warrior and Boatman ..... 200

Malagasy Girls pounding Rice in a Mortar 212

The Hova Officers of the Palace at Mourondava 234

The Sakalava Village of Tullear 236

Longwood Old House at St. Helena ....... 286

Napoleon's Tomb 300

General View of Buenos Ayres 309

The Avenue of Palms at Rio de Janeiro . . . . . . 320

Track Chart of the Cruise of the " Brooklyn" 335

THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN.

Chapter I

The " Brooklyn" commissioned for the South Atlantic — Description of the Ship — List of Officers — The Official Inspection by the Inspecting Board — Departure from New York — The First Storm at Sea — Pleasant Voyage and Arrival at the Equator — The Grand Beception and Festival in Honor of His Majesty Neptune and the Queen — The Initiation Ceremony.

After a friendly consultation between His Majesty Neptune and the President of the United States, the " Brooklyn" was selected as flag-ship of the United States naval forces in the^South Atlantic.

Owing to the unprecedented number of applications, it was some time before the Honorable Secretary of the Navy could decide who should have the privilege of serving in this ship. The subject gave him so much concern as to necessitate publishing a general order, calling especial attention to the officers finally selected.

The good old ship had been thoroughly overhauled (excepting a few leaks) and virtually rebuilt, and had a great many modern appliances, — electric bells, Hotchkiss revolving cannon, magazine-rifles, and ventilating fan-blowers. Neptune had some hope of finding electric lights on board and was very much disappointed.

The " Brooklyn" is a single-deck steam sloop-of-war, two hundred and eighty-five feet long and forty-three feet beam ; tonnage, two thousand. Her armament consists of twelve 9-inch broadside guns, one 8-inch muzzle-loading rifle, one 60-pounder breech-loading rifle, two 20 -pounder breech -loading rifles, one 12-pounder light howitzer, one 3-inch breech-loading rifle, one long Gatling, and four Hotchkiss revolving cannon. She is fitted with four

2 13 projecting platforms and two rail-posts for the Hotehkiss cannon, and has the regulation torpedo outfit.

She was put in commission at the New York Navy-yard at 1.20 P.M., the 11th of November, 1881. At this time Captain A. W. Weaver formally received the ship from Rear-Admiral G. H. Cooper, United States Navy, commandant of the yard, and took command by reading his orders from the Honorable Secretary of the Navy in the presence of the oflicers and men assembled on the quarter-deck. The colors and pennants were hoisted while the band played " The Star-Spangled Banner." The following is a list of the oflicers :

Aaron W. Weaver, captain commanding.

Charles H. Pendleton, lieutenant-commander and executive.

Charles M. Anthony, lieutenant-commander and navigator.

C. B. Gill, Uriel Sebree, W. H. Beehler, H. 0. Handy, George A. Calhoun, and J. J. Hunker, lieutenants.

John Hood, C. S. Ripley, James B. Cahoon, Thomas Snowden, and John A. Bell, midshipmen.

A. C. Parsons and G. E. Perry, cadet-midshipmen.

Henry M. Martin and John M. Steele, passed assistant surgeons. W. Goldsborough, paymaster.

B. C. Gowing, passed assistant engineer.

S. H. Leonard, assistant engineer.

W. S. Smith and R. J. Beach, cadet-engineers.

A. L. Royce, chaplain.

S. L. Jackson, second lieutenant of marines.

H. Dickenson, boatswain.

George L. Albro, gunner.

J. S. Waltemeyer, carpenter.

John T. Bailey, sailmaker.

T. G. Dawson, pay-clerk.

B. W. Goldsborough, fleet pay-clerk.

The crew consists of three hundred and twenty men, including petty officers and marines. They are the finest set of men ever visited by Neptune. A great many of them have seen long and faithful service in the navy, and all reflect great credit upon the American people in the South Atlantic.

Within three weeks the captain informed the Navy Department that the ship was ready for sea. The powder was received on board off the Battery on November 28, after which she anchored off West Twenty-third Street.

The Board of Inspectors visited the ship on December 2, when she was found to be thoroughly equipped for a three years' cruise. At 10.30 a.m. the following Wednesday, December 7, she got under way and stood down the bay to Sandy Hook, where she anchored until 4.20 P.M., when she stood out to sea, bound for Montevideo. A fresh breeze from the northwest favored the ship, but it increased to a fresh gale during the night. The sea became very rough, and the ship rolled and pitched about uneasily. A great many were sea-sick, and all were subjected to a great deal of discomfort. The seas kept the decks wet constantly for two weeks, during which time there were only a few hours of good weather, and these were hailed with great delight. The band was ordered up once during this period, and the music revived the drooping spirits amazingly.

Christmas- day was celebrated by divine service and a swell dinner in the wardroom to the captain and steerage officers. By this time the wind and sea had abated considerably, and the ship was in milder latitudes. The trade-winds were very uncertain at first, but we found fair weather in that region, and made a good run until we reached the equator. Steam was only used the first two days out and the last two days while in the " doldrums" just north of the equator.

The " Brooklyn" has side keelsons, and drags her screw when under sail ; but, notwithstanding these drawbacks, she made the run from Sandy Hook to the " line" at thirty degrees west longitude in thirty days and fourteen hours.

NEPTUNE'S KECEPTION.

At seven p.m., January 6, the ship's company was startled by the sound of a conch-shell under the weather bow, immediately after which the ship was hailed in deep stentorian tones, " Ship ahoy !" The officer of the deck answered " Halloa !" The voice replied, " What ship is that?" "The United States steamer Brooklyn." "Where from?" " New York." " Whither bound?" " Montevideo." " May I come on board ? I have a message for your captain." " Certainly."

A quaint figure then emerged from out of the sea and appeared at the mast, where he handed the officer of the deck a despatch for the captain. This proved to be from His Majesty Neptune, informing the captain that he would visit the ship with his suite the next morning.

The captain came out and shook hands with the envoy, and said he would be very much pleased to receive His Majesty, and he would have everything ready for his reception, and the initiation of those of his subjects who had never previously entered his dominions, and that he had reason to believe he had a number of such young men among the officers and crew under his command.

The captain sent his compliments to Neptune and recalled his first meeting with His Majesty thirty-three years ago in nearly the same spot. The envoy remembered it very well, and said he had the honor of being His Majesty's viceroy at that time, and, after thanking the captain, he mysteriously disappeared.

The next morning a huge tank was rigged up in the starboard gangway by means of a large boom-cover triced up to the rail on the bridge and topgallant forecastle, and preparations were mu.de for the day's ceremony. At nine A.M. a bugle-call announced the arrival of His Majesty and suite on board ship. All hands were called aft to muster, and formed lin3 for the grand review. The band struck up " A Life on the Ocean Wave," and a squad of sea-urchins appeared with the state car of His Majesty Neptune and Queen Amphitrite. The car was a long shell with two wheels covered with sea-weed, the golden fleece, and other decorations.

His Majesty looked rather aged, but his keen eye evinced all the vigor of perennial youth. He was attired in sea- weed, carried a trident, and wore a crown of pearls. Queen Amphitrite hid her blushes under a prodigious growth of hair covering her whole body. She wore a green dress tastefully embroidered with choice varieties of sea- weed. The overskirt was cut & la princess. She did not bring any of her mermaids with her, as there are no ladies allowed on board [this] ship.

The suite consisted of the secretary with Neptune's log, the doctor, grand chamberlain, the barber with an immense razor, and a train of policemen. The procession marched aft and halted at the mainmast, where the captain and executive received His Majesty and gave him a hearty welcome. Two servants appeared with wine, and Neptune and his suite pledged the health of the captain and his crew. After the usual exchange of courtesies, Neptune ordered his secretary to call the roll of officers who had not crossed the " line." Sixteen young gentlemen then came forward in obedience to the summons. His Majesty then addressed them in a neat little speech, wherein he informed them that in consideration of their positions and the record they would make in his log-book, he would allow them the privilege of choosing whether they would pay a tribute to Neptune and his train or submit to the initiatory shave. Those who preferred paying tribute were then requested to hold up their hands. As all the young gentlemen decided to pay tribute, His Majesty then ordered the train to march forward and proceed with the crew.

A throne had been prepared for them on the starboard side of the forecastle, about fifteen feet above the bottom of the tank. The doctor and barber were stationed on each side of the block, and the secretary called out the name of the victims. One of the barber's assistants had a pail of lather made of a horrible mixture of lime, flour, molasses, vinegar, and sea-water, diluted with a strong solution of Stockholm tar.

The thirty apprentice-boys were the first victims. As each one was called out he was required to sit on the block and submit to an examination by the doctor, who generally found it necessary to administer a nasty pill. The barber then put on the lather, while the victim was required to give an account of himself, during which the brush frequently lathered his mouth with an unsavory mess. As soon as the name was duly recorded the victim was lifted bodily and thrown headlong into the tank, where a host of minions received him and gave him a thorough washing. The boys went through the performance most gracefully, but the marines were obstinate, and their vain resistance evoked the greatest merriment.

When the secretary called for the master-at-arms, a general shout was raised by the boys. A full delegation of police was sent below, and " Jimmy Legs" was unceremoniously ushered into His Majesty's presence. In view of his position Neptune was somewhat undecided about requiring him to be shaved, but his ministers unanimously voted that he should be, as it might be taken as a precedent in future ceremonies. The barber was especially zealous, and used all his influence to have him shaved, and when His Majesty finally ordered him to be initiated, the assembled court gave vent to their delight in loud applause. He was then allowed to prepare himself for the shave and bath, and was very neatly handled ; his graceful form was lifted up by four brawny arms and hurled into the tank to the tender mercies of the sea-urchins with the steam hose. The printer hoped to escape on account of some services, but the law was inexorable, and he submitted with very good grace.

The firemen and coal-heavers were very indignant, and some of them intrenched themselves in the coal-bunkers and fire-room, laboring under the delusion that Neptune was not familiar with steam-engineering, and would not venture below among the intricate machinery. They soon found themselves mistaken, and after a short struggle the uninitiated were duly shaved and washed.

The captain was very anxious that his cook should be washed, but in this he was sadly disappointed, for when summoned into the presence of His Majesty, he was found to be an old acquaintance ; some infer that he was born on the coast of Africa, and is intimately acquainted with some of His Majesty's court. At all events, he was not subjected to either a shave or a wash. One young man from the " Woods" claimed to have crossed fifteen times, but had no certificate. He was cross-examined by the chief marshal, and as this proved unsatisfactory, he was duly submerged.

At eleven a.m., after all the young men had been duly initiated and the officers had paid their tribute of wine and cigars, His Majesty went aft and bade the captain adieu. He reported to the captain that he had washed the hay-seed out of the hair of the young men, and that they would now pass muster. He promised fair weather and steady southeast trade-winds during the voyage, and that he would watch the young men and boys and see that they did their duty with credit to themselves and country. He expressed himself very much gratified with his visit and mysteriously disappeared with his whole retinue, while the band played "Yankee Doodle."

All hands then turned to and proceeded to their duties. A fair wind sprang up almost immediately after His Majesty left. The captain ordered sail to be made and the fires were allowed to burn out, while the old ship proceeded on her way with Neptune's blessing.

Chapter II

Arrival at Montevideo — Reception of the Commander-in-Chief, Rear-Admiral J. H. Spotts — The Organization of the Admiral's Staff — The Departure of the " Brooklyn" for the Straits of Magellan — Arrival at Elizabeth Island — Reception at Sandy Point by the Chilian Governor — Arrival at Falkland Islands — Description of Port Stanley — Death and Burial of Admiral Spotts — The Naval Funeral Ceremonies.

From the " line" to Montevideo very little of interest occurred. The sea was for the most part smooth, and sailing delightful. January 18 the officers appeared in white for the first time. January 20 orders were given to get up steam, the wind having died out ; but soon, a fair wind springing up, fires were banked. January 22, soon after eleven o'clock, the drum beat to general quarters, the first we had had at night. The men turned out with great promptness, much to the satisfaction of the officers in charge of divisions.

The wind dying out the next morning, orders were given to spread fires. The deep-sea lead was kept going all night at intervals. At four A.M., Wednesday, January 24, we made the light at the mouth of the river Plate. The pilot came on board at nine A.M., and we steamed up the river at a rapid rate under three-fourths power. The sky was overcast, but cleared towards evening. The city of Montevideo came in view about five o'clock, and a little after eight o'clock we came to anchor in the outer roadstead, signalling the " Shenandoah" by rockets. The long streets lit up by gas looked very beautiful to our weary eyes after forty-nine days at sea. The next morning we stood into the harbor, and came to anchor a short distance from the " Shenandoah." Three other men-of-war were in the harbor, — an Italian, a Frenchman, and a Brazilian.

Montevideo takes its name from a conical hill, which, can be seen for a long distance, situated on the western side of the circular indenture in the river which forms the harbor. The town itself is on a point opposite, distant from it a mile or more in a direct line across the water. The hill is known as the " Cerro," or hill, par excellence. It is isolated, and rises gradually and regularly on all sides, at an angle of forty-five degrees, to a height of about four hundred and ninety feet. It is crowned by a small rectangular fortress, above which rises a tower some twenty or thirty feet, from which a flash light is shown. The fortress has been suffered to fall into a state of decay of late years, but the government, at the time of our visit, was making repairs and mounting guns. Midway between the hill on the west and the town on the east, a small hill rises two or three miles inland, called the " Cerrito," or little hill. In the many revolutions in this country this hill has been often fortified ; usually one party holding the " Cerro" and the other the " Cerrito," and each in turn attempting to control the city.

The town is situated on a peninsula of tufa rocks, a half-mile in length by a quarter in width, and then spreads out into beautiful suburbs of twice this extent. The peninsula itself rises gently from the water on three sides to an elevation of eighty or one hundred feet, much in the shape of a whale's back. From a distance it presents a mass of compactly -built, white, flat-topped houses, one and two stories high, with multitudes of small square turrets or miradors overtopping them. From the midst, in the central height, rise the lofty roofs, domes, and double towers of the cathedral.

On Monday, January 30, at eleven a.m., Rear-Admiral James H. Spotts hoisted his flag on the " Brooklyn," being received on board by the officers and crew in battalion formation and a salute of thirteen guns, after which the admiral and staff inspected the ship. Medical Inspector C. H. Burbank and Captain E. P. Meeker joined this ship in company with the admiral. The admiral announced his staff in the following general order :

Squadron Order "» TJ. S. F. S. " Brooklyn," Montevideo, Uruguay,

Having transferred my flag to the U. S. S. " Brooklyn," I announce to the squadron the following officers as composing the personal and general staff:

Personal Staff.

Captain A. W. Weaver, chief of staff.

Lieutenant W. H. Beehler, flag lieutenant.

Lieutenant Jacob J. Hunker, secretary to commander-in-chief.

Midshipman John Hood, aide to commander-in-chief.

General Staff.

Medical Inspector C. H. Burbank, fleet surgeon. Paymaster W. Goldsborough, fleet paymaster. Chief Engineer W. W. Dungan, fleet engineer. Captain E. P. Meeker, U. S. M. C, fleet marine officer.

J. H. S POTTS, Rear-Admiral Commanding, U. S. Naval Force,

South Atlantic Station.

From Monday afternoon until Thursday, February 2, we were unable to hold any communication with the shore on account of a severe gale. February 4 the " Shenandoah" put to sea, homeward bound. Both crews manned the rigging and cheered ship. Having coaled, the following day we also put to sea, bound for Sandy Point, in the Straits of Magellan. We had a most delightful passage until near Cape Virgins. The Yirgins, however, gave us a cold and stormy reception, and on Monday, February 13, we were obliged to heave to, not being able to enter the straits. The next day we made the entrance, and at night anchored in Possession Bay. Wednesday we anchored in Gregory Bay. Thursday, February 16, we came to anchor off Elizabeth Island at about eight A.M. The admiral, Captain Weaver, and quite a party went on shore on a shooting expedition, and came back after having fine sport. The next day the same party went ashore again, and in the two hunting expeditions of a few hours each they brought back about one hundred wild geese. February 18 we reached Sandy Point, where we expected to receive a large mail. In this, however, we were disappointed, and the admiral decided to remain till the arrival of the next mail steamer, due February 25. In the mean time the usual visits of ceremony were exchanged between the admiral and the Chilian governor, and the latter invited the admiral and staff to join him in a horseback-ride about the settlement, but the admiral complained of a cold and did not accompany the party on this expedition. On February 28 we again put to sea, bound for Port Stanley, East Falkland, where we arrived without incident Saturday, March 4.

Port Stanley is the seat of government of the Falkland Islands. It is a very pretty little harbor and perfectly land-locked on all sides. The entrance to the outer harbor is marked by a light-house on a point running out towards a number of rocks known as the Seal Rocks. The outer harbor is known as Port William, and is connected with the inner harbor by a narrow strait about one hundred feet wide and four hundred feet long. When we passed in at dusk, Saturday, March 4, it seemed to be scarcely wide enough to admit us.

The Falkland Islands are now English settlements, but they have been held by a number of governments. The islands were discovered by Cavendish in 1592, but they are not known to have been inhabited before the French took possession of them, the first part of this century. The Spanish. English, and the government of Buenos Ayres held them at different times, but did not hold them permanently.

While held by Buenos Ayres, some Americans were maltreated, in consequence of which the U. S. S. " Lexington" bombarded the place and seized the islands. Our government claimed these islands until Secretary Seward was Secretary of State, when this claim was finally yielded and the proprietorship of England recognized by us, as well as by the rest of the world, except the government of Buenos Ayres, which still claims them as part of their territory.

The English have a number of settlements in the islands, twelve hundred people finding a home on them. The largest settlement is that of Stanley, where there are about five hundred and fifty people, men, women, and children, the latter being unusually numerous.

The soil is barren, trees are unknown, and very little vegetation is found except short grass and field flowers. The chief industry is that of sheep-raising. The wool from these sheep is very fine and is the main source of income. It requires an average of four acres of this land to maintain one sheep, while in the United States several sheep are amply supported on one acre of land. Every year, however, brings improvement in the soil, and in time it promises to be quite an important place.

The wind blows nearly all the time with a velocity of from twenty to fifty miles per hour, often being accompanied with rain. Not a single day passes without rain, more or less copious. The climate is, however, a very healthy one ; the fresh wind keeps up a perfect ventilation, and doctors have very little to do.

The town itself is like one of our own new settlements. The frame houses, with gable-windows in the roof and smoking chimney-tops, gave the place a homelike aspect as seen from the ship.

Peat is the principal fuel. It abounds on the hills close at hand, and is very generally used. Peat is a carbonized vegetable matter. It has a dark-brown color, and is dug out of the earth in cubical blocks, and then piled up to dry, two weeks' exposure to the sun and wind being requisite before it is fit for fuel. It makes a pretty grate-fire, but burns with a great deal of smoke, having a peculiar odor, which though not disagreeable yet permeates everything.

There is very little commerce with the rest of the world. Some seal-fishers come in occasionally, and there is a line of steamers which call here once in about six weeks. Whalers come in once in a while, but the present compulsory pilot laws keep most of them out. The only other vessels that come in are those in distress, several fine vessels being in the harbor unable to get away or have their masts and rigging repaired. The people of Stanley have strong hopes that the English government will establish a regular naval depot at Port Stanley, several of the most desirable parts of the harbor being reserved by the government.

On Monday, March 6, we fired a national salute of twenty-one guns with the English flag at the fore, which was at once returned gun for gun. The next day the admiral and his entire staff" made an official visit to the governor, being saluted with thirteen guns on landing.

We commenced to coal ship at eight o'clock Thursday morning, March 9. Fires were started at noon, when the governor made his official visit. At this time the admiral was suddenly taken sick, and fires were banked again.

THE DEATH OF REAK-ADMIBAL JAMES H. SPOTTS.

It has pleased Almighty God in his infinite wisdom to remove our beloved commander-in-chief, Rear-Admiral James H. Spotts, from our midst. He was stricken with apoplexy while receiving an official visit from the governor of the Falkland Islands, at 12.30 p.m., March 9, 1882. It appears that he was seized with a fit of sneezing, and the effort produced a rush of blood to the head, which rendered him semi-unconscious ; he attempted to rise from his chair, but fell forward on his hands and knees. Captain Weaver, the governor, and his son raised him on to the transom, and Drs. Burbank, Martin, and Steele were at once summoned to attend him. They did all that human skill could possibly do, but to no avail. In fifteen minutes the admiral became entirely unconscious, and gradually sank, and died at 10.41 that night.

It was at first intended to take his remains to Montevideo, but this was found to be inexpedient, as the body could not be properly embalmed for want of proper appliances, and if only imperfectly done, delay, or any accident of storm and weather to the ship en route, would have necessitated its burial at sea. Stanley, in being an English port, is more like our own country than any other place on the station, and as events proved, the people on shore paid his remains every possible mark of respect, and his grave will be honored for all time in the history of the islands.

Lieutenant Beehler was placed in charge of the remains, and prepared them for burial, and a number of officers voluntarily kept watch by the body until the funeral, on Saturday, March 11.

Rear- Admiral James H. Spotts was born in North Carolina, March 11, 1822, and was appointed a midshipman in the navy from Kentucky, August 2, 1837. He made a cruise around the world in the "John Adams," 1837 to 1840, and engaged in two battles on the island of Sumatra in 1839. From 1841 to 1842 he served on the Brazil Station in the "Delaware" and "Potomac." He was promoted to passed midshipman June 29, 1843, and cruised in the West Indies and coast of Africa in the " St. Lawrence," " Falmouth," and " Southampton" in 1843, 1844, and 1845. Promoted to master April, 1850, and lieutenant November of the same year. He served in the Pacific in the " Lexington" from 1846 to 1849, and again in the " Portsmouth" from 1851 to 1855. During the Mexican war he was on the blockade on the west coast, and participated in the capture of San Bias, Mazatlan, La Paz, etc. He was in the " Michigan" on the lakes from 1856 to 1858, and the " Cyane" and " Saranac," Pacific coast, from 1858 to 1860. In 1861 he joined the " Santee" on the Gulf Squadron, and there took his first command, that of the " Wanderer," 1861 and 1862. He also commanded the " Magnolia" in the latter part of 1862. He was commissioned as commander in July of the same year, and commanded the " South Carolina" in 1863, and the " Pawtucket" in 1864 and 1865. From 1865 to 1867 he served as executive of the Mare Island Navy-yard. He was commissioned as captain July 25, 1866, and commanded the " Saranac" in 1870 and 1871, and also the "Pensacola," 1871 and 1872, in the Pacific, after which he was light-house inspector on that coast until 1874. He was commissioned as commodore September 25, 1873, and served as inspector of government vessels from 1877 to 1880. During the war of the Rebellion he served in the Gulf, North and South Atlantic Blockading Squadrons. He was at both engagements with Fort Fisher, and those with the batteries on Cape Fear River, and several minor engagements while on the blockade. He was up James River when Richmond was taken. He received orders to command the United States naval force, South Atlantic Station, on May 5, 1881, and was promoted to rear-admiral on the 28th of the same month. He relieved Rear- Admiral Bryson, on board the U. S. flag-ship " Shenandoah," at Rio de Janeiro, on July 25 following. He transferred his flag from the " Shenandoah" to the " Brooklyn" on January 30 of this year, and started on a cruise to visit the ports within the limits of the station.