The Cruise of the Brooklyn. A journal of the principal events of a three years' cruise ... in the South Atlantic station ... The cruises of the other vessels of the American squadron from November, 1881 to November, 1884 ... Illustrated

Front matter

THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN. THE "BROOKLYN" AT ANCHOR IN TADLE BAY. T/AliIiH Mountain in the Backghou.nii. [ Frontispiece.] THE CRUISE OF THE BROOKLYN A JOURNAL OF THE PRINCIPAL EVENTS OP A THREE YEARS' CRUISE IN THE U. S. FLAG-SHIP BROOKLYN, IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC STATION, EXTENDING SOUTH OP THE EQUATOR PROM CAPE HORN EAST TO THE LIMITS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN ON THE SEVENTIETH MERIDIAN OF EAST LONGITUDE. descriptions of places in SOUTH AMERICA, AFRICA, AND MADAGASCAR, WITH DETAILS OF THE PECULIAR CUSTOMS AND INDUSTRIES OF THEIR INHABITANTS. THE CRUISES OF THE OTHER VESSELS OF THE AMERICAN SQUADRON, FROM NOVEMBER, 1881, TO NOVEMBER, 1884. BY W. H. BEE H LEE. _-,_. T /r Lieut. U. S. Navy*. ILLUSTRA TED. PRESS OP J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO., PHILADELPHIA. 1885. Copyright, 1884, by W. H. Beehler. PKEFACE.

The interesting reception of Neptune on board the U. S. S. " Brooklyn," upon crossing the equator, created a demand for a periodical on board. The author was selected to conduct the journal, and the officers cordially gave him their assistance, so that the Brooklyn Eagle became a regular feature of the ship. Captain A. W. Weaver gave his permission, and the sum of five cents per copy was charged, in order to defray expenses for paper, ink, and replenishing the type, and also to pay the printer, C. M. Cartwright, for his labor during his leisure hours. The writer of any article was also allowed as many copies of the paper as he might desire for his own gratification. The present volume is, with a few additions, taken from the Brooklyn Eagle, and, with the illustrations of the principal places visited during a cruise in comparatively unfrequented waters, may prove interesting to the general public.

" The History of the River Plate Republics" was published in a continued series of the Brooklyn Eagle, and the author intends to complete that work and publish it in a separate volume. The author takes advantage of the opportunity to acknowledge his indebtedness to the officers of the " Brooklyn" for their support and co-operation. Lieutenant G. A. Calhoun contributed

Preface

. the articles upon " La Fete National" and " The Carnival of '83 at Montevideo ;" Lieutenant J. J. Hunker that of " The Fazenda Santa Anna," and Lieutenant H. 0. Handy the article on " Base-Ball" and that of " The National Sport of Spain." Chap lain Royce furnished valuable information concerning Madagascar, and all the officers kindly revised and criticised the various articles as they appeared from time to time, so that this volume may be considered as having been thoroughly revised and in all respects reliable. My special thanks are due to Captain A. W. Weaver for his permission to continue the publication of the Brooklyn Eagle, and also to Rear- Admirals Crosby and Phelps, who gave me their friendly advice. W. H. Beehler, Lieutenant U.S.N. U. S. S. "Brooklyn," October 8, 1884. CONTENTS.

CHAPTEE I. PAGE The "Brooklyn" commissioned for the South Atlantic — Description of the Ship — List of Officers — The Official Inspection by the Inspecting Board — Departure from New York — The First Storm at Sea — Pleasant Voyage and Arrival at the Equator — The Grand Reception and Festival in Honor of His Majesty Neptune and the Queen— The Initiation Ceremony ............ 13 CHAPTEE II. Arrival at Montevideo — Reception of the Commander-in-Chief, Rear-Admiral J. H. Spotts — The Organization of the Admiral's Staff — The Departure of the " Brooklyn" for the Straits of Magellan — Arrival at Elizabeth Island — Reception at Sandy Point by the Chilian Governor — Arrival at Falkland Islands — Description of Port Stanley — Death and Burial of Admiral Spotts — The Naval Funeral Ceremonies . CHAPTEE III.

Departure from Port Stanley — The Gale off the Mouth of the River Plate — The first "General Liberty" for the Ship's Company — The Stupid Arrest of "Perfectly Sober" Liberty-men — The Successful Cruise ofthe "Marion" — Search aud Rescue of Shipwrecked Seamen on Heard Island in the Antarctic Ocean — The " Pamperos" — The " Brooklyn" run into by Steamer " Mozart" — Courtesy of Uruguayan Authorities and other Men-of-War at Montevideo — The Assistance rendered to the burning American Bark "Jonathan Chase" — The "Brooklyn" Base- Ball Nine 31 CONTENTS. PAGE

CHAPTER IV.

The Arrival of the "Essex" and "Marion" at Montevideo — Closing the Breach made by the "Mozart" — Departure for Rio de Janeiro — The Death of Henry Jones, Boatswain's Mate — The Burial at Sea— Obituary Notices — Description of the Voyage and Arrival at Rio — Rear-Admiral and Mrs. Crosby arrive at Rio, and the Admiral assumes Command of the South Atlantic Squadron — The Feast of Corpus Christi at Rio — Preparations for entering the Dry-dock — The Presentation of the Admiral and Officers to His Majesty Dom Pedro and the Empress — Lieutenant Beehler's Experiments with the Electric Lights — Brilliant Illumination of the Ship in the Dry-dock ...... 44

CHAPTER V.

First Organization of the "Brooklyn" Minstrels on the Fourth of July — The French Fete of the Storming of the Bastile — Gallant Conduct of Robert Allen and Edward Kenny in Rescuing their Shipmates — The United States Naval Depot at Rio de Janeiro — The Hospitality of the People at Rio — The Grand Minstrel Entertainments — Programme of the Performance — Full Description of the Entertainment . . . .59

CHAPTER VI.

The Admiral's Bal] — The Reception ofthe Princess Imperial and Comte d'Eu — The Special Performance by the Celebrated " Brooklyn" Minstrels — Subsequent Arrival of the Emperor Dom Pedro II. — The Fazenda Santa Anna — Description of a Brazilian Coffee Plantation — Detachment of Officers — Departure from Rio — The Inspection of the Ship by Admiral Crosby — The Arrival of thc " Galena" — The Cruise of the " Marion" and her Departure for Home ....... 72

CHAPTER VII.

The Transit of Venus Expedition — Arrival of the Astronomical Party — — Departure and Passage to Patagonia — Arrival at Santa Cruz — Building the Observatory at Camp Brooklyn — Preparations for observing the Transit — Diversions of the Ship's Company while waiting for the Day of the Transit — The Object of observing the Transit of Venus — The Photographic Method used by American Observers and the Great Success obtained — The Second Trip to Santa Cruz — Rating Chronometers — Return to Montevideo — Admiral Crosby relieved from the Command and transferred to the Asiatic Station — Poem by William Anderson, Seaman, upon the Transit of Venus CONTENTS. 9 PAGE 109 133 164 CHAPTEE VIII. Montevideo — The Carnival Festivities in 1883 — Full Accounts of the "Pomito" Warfare with the Montevidean Belles — The Masked Balls at the Clubs in Montevideo — Scientific Evolutions on Board the " Brooklyn" to determine Tactical Diameter — Departure of Naval Cadets for Examination at Annapolis — A Visit to a Saladero — Description of the Principal Industry of Uruguay — The Fire Department at Montevideo — Gallant Conduct of Several of the Crew of the " Brooklyn"— Surprise of the Citizens at the Intrepid Bravery of the "Yankee" Sailors — A Bull-Fight at Montevideo — Description of the Actors and the Bull-Ring — Arrival of a Paraguayan Man-of-War at Montevideo — Brief Sketch of a Thrilling Incident in the Paraguayan War CHAPTEE IX.

Arrival of Commodore Phelps to take Command of South Atlantic Squadron — Inspection of the "Brooklyn" — Highly Creditable Performance of the Ship's Company in the Examination by New Commander-in- Chief — Time made in Different Exercises — Efficiency of the Ship — Departure of the " Galena" for the United States — Revised List of the Officers of the "Brooklyn" — Ordered to Madagascar — Departure for the Cape of Good Hope — The Cruise across the South Atlantic — Catching Albatross — Arrival at Cape Town — Full Description of Cape Town and Cape Colony — History of Cape Colony — The Renowned Docks at Cape Town — General Liberty for the Ship's Company — The "Brooklyn" in the Dry-Dock — Description of a Dinner-Party given by the Officers' Mess ofthe famous Highland Regiment, Princess Louise's Own — The African Diamond-Fields — History of Diamond Mines in South Africa — Penalty for Illicit Diamond Buying — Departure of the " Brooklyn" for Madagascar — Events of the Voyage in the Indian Ocean CHAPTEE X. Arrival at Tamatave — The War prevents Communication with the Shore — Departure for Zanzibar — Events of the Trip — Christmas at Zanzibar — Description of Zanzibar and its History — Peculiar Customs and Industries of the Arabs — The Commercial Wealth of Zanzibar — African Slavery — The Slave " Dhows" — The Hospitality of the Sultan of Zanzibar — Remarkable Dinner-Party given by the Sultan to the American Officers — Visit to the Sultan's Harem — Labors of the English Universities Missions in behalf of African Slaves — Abolition of Slavery in Zanzibar ............ CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XI. PAGE

Departure for the Comoro Islands — Arrival at Johanna — Description of the Comoro Islands — Arrival at Nossi Be — A Sugar Plantation at Nossi Be* — Arrival at Mojanga, on the West Coast of Madagascar — Visit to a Sakalava Queen — Effects of the French Bombardment — Arrival at Mozambique — Description and History of Mozambique — The African Explorations — Discovery of Makala Bay — The Great Importance of this Valuable Harbor — India-rubber Trees 180

CHAPTER XII

Madagascar — The Peculiarities of its Animal and Vegetable Life — The Remarkable Inhabitants — The History as furnished by Missionary Writers — Private Settlements — The Ascendency of the Hovas — Conversion to Christianity — Reaction in Favor of Idolatry in the Reign of Bloody Ranavalona — Christianity of the Present Queen — Peculiar Customs of tho Malagasy — Succession to the Throne confined to Female Members of the Royal Family — Status of the Prime Minister — Hova Houses — Sakalava Grass Huts — Mode of Reckoning Time — Native Dress — Cultivation of Rice — Peculiar Implements used — Malagasy Names — Government Employment without Pay — The Blood Covenant — Sakalava Medicine-Men — Hova Marriage Ceremony — Hova Tombs — Description of Antananarivo — The War with France .... 196

CHAPTER XIII.

The Sakalava Outrage on American Gold-Hunters — The Investigation by the U. S. S. " Enterprise"— Arrival of the " Brooklyn" at Mourondava — Reception by Hova Officials — Peculiar Rites of Hospitality — Visit of Hovas to the " Brooklyn" — Arrival of the " Brooklyn" at Tullear — Effect of Target-Practice upon the Guilty Consciences of the Savage Sakalavas — The Lonely Missionary and his Labors among the Heathen — The Semi-Annual Inspection by the Commander-in-Chief — Departure for Port Elizabeth — Description of Port Elizabeth — The Proposed Docks— The Hottentot Clicks 229

CHAPTER XIV.

Voyage around Cape of Good Hope to Cape Town — Promotion of Rear- Admiral Phelps — Courtesy of the English at Cape Town — Reception by the Officers — Dr. Holub's Exploring Expedition — The Vineyard at High Constantia — The Beautiful Silver-Tree — General Description of CONTENTS. 11 PAGE 337 South Africa — History of the African States — The Transvaal Boers — The Boer War and Inglorious Defeat of the British at Laing's Neck — The Zulu War — Cetewayo's Capture and Exile 243 CHAPTEK XV. Departure for St. Helena — Impressions upon sighting the Island — Incidents of the "Brooklyn's" Stay in Port — Grand Ball given to the Officers by the Citizens of Jamestown — Description of St. Helena — History of the Island — Napoleon's Exile — Measures taken by the English to prevent his Escape — Failure of the Plans of Napoleon's Friends — The Remarkable Resemblance of the Chinese Servant to the Ex-Emperor — Napoleon's Pastimes — Last Sickness and Death — Curious Coincidences related by an Old Inhabitant — Burial at St. Helena — Neglect of Longwood — Napoleon's Remains removed to France — Grand Funeral Procession — Restoration of Napoleon's Residence — Cession of the Tomb and Longwood Estate to Napoleon's Heirs by Great Britain — The Present Guardian of the Tomb — A Visit to Longwood and Description of its Present Condition ......... 275

CHAPTER XVI.

The Return to Montevideo from St. Helena — Events of the Voyage — A Visit to Buenos Ayres — Full Description of the City — The Park at Palermo — The Zoological Garden — An Amusing Incident at the Races — The Street Railroads in Buenos Ayres — The Argentine Naval Academy — The " Nipsic's" Cruise in the South Atlantic .... 300

CHAPTER XVII.

Description of the Bay and City of Rio de Janeiro — A Brief Summary of the History of Brazil — The "Brooklyn's" Pets — The Homeward- Bound Voyage of the " Brooklyn" and Safe Arrival at New York — A Synopsis of the Cruise and Track Chart 319

Appendix

. List of Officers and Crew on board the "Brooklyn," October 8, ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Title and Medallion with View of the "Brooklyn" — Fae simile of a " Silver Leaf" — A Leadsman in the Chains Heaving the Lead On the cover. The " Brooklyn" and Table Mountain Frontispiece. General View of Montevideo ......... 21 Entrance to Rio de Janeiro ......... 47 Camp Brooklyn — Transit of Venus Expedition ..... 99 Government Buildings at Montevideo — Plaza Independencia . . 119 Street in Cape Town — Railroad Depot and Commercial Exchange . . 152 General View of Zanzibar — The Sultan's Harem ..... 171 General View of Mozambique ......... 192 Madagascar — Sakalava V»rarrior and Boatman ..... 200 Malagasy Girls pounding Rice in a Mortar ...... 212 The Hova Officers of the Palace at Mourondava ..... 234 The Sakalava Village of Tullear 236 Longwood Old House at St. Helena 286 Napoleon's Tomb 300 General View of Buenos Ayres 309 The Avenue of Palms at Rio de Janeiro ...... 320 Track Chart of the Cruise of the " Brooklyn"

Chapter I

The " Brooklyn" commissioned for the South Atlantic — Description of the Ship — List of Officers — The Official Inspection by the Inspecting Board — Departure from New York — The First Storm at Sea — Pleasant Voyage and Arrival at the Equator — The Grand Reception and Festival in Honor of His Majesty Neptune and the Queen — The Initiation Ceremony. After a friendly consultation between His Majesty Neptune and the President of the United States, the " Brooklyn" was selected as flag-ship of the United States naval forces in the^South Atlantic. Owing to the unprecedented number of applications, it was some time before tbe Honorable Secretary of the Navy could decide who should have the privilege of serving in this ship. The subject gave him so much concern as to necessitate publishing a general order, calling especial attention to the officers finally selected.

The good old ship had been thoroughly overhauled (excepting a few leaks) and virtually rebuilt, and had a great many modern appliances, — electric bells, Hotchkiss revolving cannon, magazine rifles, and ventilating fan-blowers. Neptune had some hope of finding electric lights on board and was very much disappointed. The " Brooklyn" is a single-deck steam sloop-of-war, two hun dred and eighty-five feet long and forty-three feet beam ; tonnage, two thousand. Her armament consists of twelve 9-inch broadside guns, one 8-inch muzzle-loading rifle, one 60-pounder breech-loading rifle, two 20-pounder breech-loading rifles, one 12-pounder light howitzer, one 3-inch breech-loading rifle, one long Gatling, and four Hotchkiss revolving cannon. She is fitted with four 2 projecting platforms and two rail-posts for the Hotchkiss cannon, and has the regulation torpedo outfit.

She was put in commission at the New York Navy-yard at 1.20 p.m., the 11th of November, 1881. At this time Captain A. W. Weaver formally received the ship from Rear-Admiral G. H. Cooper, United States Navy, commandant of the yard, and took command by reading his orders from the Honorable Secretary of the Navy in the presence of the officers and men assembled on tho quarter-deck. The colors and pennants were hoisted while the band played " The Star-Spangled Banner." The following is a list of the officers : Aaron W. Weaver, captain commanding. Charles H. Pendleton, lieutenant-commander and executive. Charles M. Anthony, lieutenant-commander and navigator. C. B. Gill, Uriel Sebree, W. H. Beehler, H. 0. Handy, George A. Calhoun, and J. J. Hunker, lieutenants. John Hood, C. S. Ripley, James B. Cahoon, Thomas Snowden, and John A. Bell, midshipmen.

A. C. Parsons and G. E. Perry, cadet-midshipmen. Henry M. Martin and John M. Steele, passed assistant surgeons. W. Goldsborough, paymaster. W. W. Dungan, chief engineer. B. C. Gowing, passed assistant engineer. S. H. Leonard, assistant engineer. W. S. Smith and R. J. Beach, cadet-engineers. A. L. Royce, chaplain. S. L. Jackson, second lieutenant of marines. H. Dickenson, boatswain. George L. Albro, gunner. J. S. Waltemeyer, carpenter. John T. Bailey, sailmaker. T. G. Dawson, pay-clerk. B. W. Goldsborough, fleet pay-clerk. The crew consists of three hundred and twenty meD, including petty officers and marines. They are the finest set of men ever visited by Neptune. A great many of them have seen long and faithful service in tbe navy, and all reflect great credit upon the American people in the South Atlantic.

Within three weeks tbe captain informed the Navy Department that the ship was ready for sea. Tbe powder was received on board off the Battery on November 28, after which she anchored off West Twenty-third Street. The Board of Inspectors visited the ship on December 2, when she was found to be thoroughly equipped for a three years' cruise. At 10.30 A.M. the following Wednesday, December 7, she got under way and stood down the bay to Sandy Hook, where she an chored until 4.20 p.m., when she stood out to sea, bound for Mon tevideo. A fresh breeze from the northwest favored the ship, but it increased to a fresh gale during the night. The sea became very rough, and the ship rolled and pitched about uneasily. A great many were sea-sick, and all were subjected to a great deal of discomfort. The seas kept the decks wet constantly for two weeks, during which time there were only a few hours of good weather, and these were hailed with great delight.

The band was ordered up once during this period, and tbe music revived the drooping spirits amazingly. Christmas-day was celebrated by divine service and a swell din ner in the wardroom to the captain and steerage officers. By this time the wind and sea had abated considerably, and the ship was in milder latitudes. The trade-winds were very uncertain at first, but we found fair weather in that region, and made a good run until we reached tbe equator. Steam was only used the first two days out and the last two days while in the " doldrums" just north of the equator. The " Brooklyn" has side keelsons, and drags her screw when under sail ; but, notwithstanding these drawbacks, she made the run from Sandy Hook to the " line'" at thirty degrees west longitude in thirty days and fourteen hours. NEPTUNE'S KECEPTION.

At seven p.m., January 6, the ship's company was startled by the sound of a conch-shell under the weather bow, immediately after which the ship was hailed in deep stentorian tones, " Ship ahoy I" The officer of the deck answered " Halloa !" The voice replied, " What ship is that?" "The United States steamer Brooklyn." " Where from ?" "New York." " Whither bound?" " Montevideo." " May I come on board ? I have a message for your captain." " Certainly." A quaint figure then emerged from out of the sea and appeared at tbe mast, where he handed the officer of the deck a de spatch for the captain. This proved to be from His Majesty Nep tune, informing the captain that he would visit the ship with his suite the next morning. The captain came out and shook hands with the envoy, and said he would be very much pleased to receive His Majesty, and he would have everything ready for his reception, and the initiation of those of his subjects who had never previously entered his dominions, and that he had reason to believe he had a num ber of such young men among the officers and crew under his command.

The captain sent his compliments to Neptune and recalled his first meeting with His Majesty thirty-three years ago in nearly the same spot. The envoy remembered it very well, and said he had the honor of being His Majesty's viceroy at that time, and, after thanking the captain, he mysteriously disappeared. The next morning a huge tank was rigged up in the starboard gangway by means of a large boom-cover triced up to the rail on tbe bridge and topgallant forecastle, and preparations were made for the day's ceremony. At nine A.M. a bugle-call announced the arrival of His Majesty and suite on board ship. All hands were called aft to muster, and formed line for the grand review. The band struck up " A Life on the Ocean Wave," and a squad of seaurchins appeared with the state car of His Majesty Neptune and Queen Amphitrite.

The car was a long shell with two wheels cov ered with sea-weed, the golden fleece, and other decorations. His Majesty looked rather aged, but his keen eye evinced all the vigor of perennial youth. He was attired in sea-weed, carried a trident, and wore a crown of pearls. Queen Amphitrite hid her blushes under a prodigious growth of hair covering her whole body. She wore a green dress tastefully embroidered with choice varieties of sea-weed. The overskirt was cut A la princess. She did not bring any of her mermaids with ber, as there are no ladies allowed on board [this] ship. The suite consisted of the secretary with Neptune's log, the doctor, grand chamberlain, the barber with an immense razor, and a train of policemen. The procession marched aft and halted at the mainmast, where the captain and executive received His Majesty and gave him a hearty welcome.

Two servants appeared with wine, and Neptune and bis suite pledged the health of the captain and bis crew. After the usual exchange of courtesies, Neptune ordered his secretary to call the roll of officers who had not crossed the " line." Sixteen young gentlemen then came forward in obedience to the summons. His Majesty then addressed them in a neat little speech, wherein he informed them that in consideration of their positions and the record they would make in his log-book, he would allow them the privilege of choosing whether they would pay a tribute to Neptune and his train or submit to the initiatory shave. Those who preferred paying tribute were then requested to hold up their hands. As all the young gentle men decided to pay tribute, His Majesty then ordered the train to march forward and proceed with the crew.

A throne had been prepared for them on the starboard side of the forecastle, about fifteen feet above the bottom of tbe tank. The doctor and barber were stationed on each side of the block, and the secretary called out the name of the victims. One of the barber's assistants had a pail of lather made osa horrible mixture of lime, flour, molasses, vinegar, and sea-water, diluted with a strong solution of Stockholm tar. The thirty apprentice-boys were the first victims. As each one was called out he was required to sit on the block and submit to an examination by the doctor, who generally found it necessary to administer a nasty pill. The barber then put on the lather, while the victim was required to give an account of himself, during which the brush frequently lathered his mouth with an unsavory mess.

As soon as the name was duly recorded the victim was lifted bodily and thrown headlong into the tank, where a host of minions received him and gave him a thorough washing. The boys went through the performance most gracefully, but the ma rines were obstinate, and their vain resistance evoked the greatest merriment. When the secretary called for the master-at-arms, a general shout was raised by the boys. A full delegation of police was sent below, and " Jimmy Legs" was unceremoniously ushered into His Majesty's presence. In view of his position Neptune was somewhat undecided about requiring him to be shaved, but his ministers unanimously voted that he should be, as it might be taken as a precedent in future ceremonies. The barber was especially zealous, and used all his influence to have him shaved, and when His Majesty finally ordered him to be initiated, the assem bled court gave vent to their delight in loud applause.

He was then allowed to prepare himself for the shave and bath, and was very neatly handled ; his graceful form was lifted up by four brawny arms and hurled into the tank to tbe tender mercies of the sea-urchins with the steam hose. The printer hoped to escape on account of some services, but the law was inexorable, and he submitted with very good grace. The firemen and coal-heavers were very indignant, and some of them intrenched themselves in tbe coal-bunkers and fire-room, laboring under the delusion that Neptune was not familiar with steam-engineering, and would not venture below among the intricate machinery. They soon found themselves mistaken, and after a short struggle tbe uninitiated were duly shaved and washed. The captain was very anxious that his cook should be washed, but in this he was sadly disappointed, for when summoned into the presence of His Majesty, he was found to be an old acquaint ance ; some infer that he was born on the coast of Africa, and is intimately acquainted with some of His Majesty's court.

At all events, he was not subjected to either a shave or a wash. One young man from the " Woods" claimed to have crossed fifteen times, but had no certificate. He was cross-examined by the chief marshal, and as this proved unsatisfactory, he was duly submerged. At eleven a.m., after all the young men had been duly initi ated and the officers had paid their tribute of wine and cigars, His Majesty went aft and bade the captain adieu. He reported to the captain that he had washed the hay-seed out of the hair of the young men, and that they would now pass muster. He promised fair weather and steady southeast trade-winds during the voyage, and that he would watch the young men and boys and see that they did their duty with credit to themselves and country. He expressed himself very much gratified with his visit and mysteri ously disappeared with his whole retinue, while the band played "Yankee Doodle."

All hands then turned to and proceeded to their duties. A fair wind sprang up almost immediately after His Majesty left. The captain ordered sail to be made and the fires were allowed to burn out, while the old ship proceeded on her way with Neptune's blessing.

Chapter II

Arrival at Montevideo — Reception of the Commander-in-Chief, Rear-Admiral J. H. Spotts — The Organization of the Admiral's Staff— The Departure of the " Brooklyn" for the Straits of Magellan — Arrival at Elizabeth Island — Reception at Sandy Point by the Chilian Governor — Arrival at Falkland Islands — Description of Port Stanley — Death and Burial of Admiral Spotts — The Naval Funeral Ceremonies. From the " line" to Montevideo very little of interest occurred. The sea was for the most part smooth, and sailing delightful. January 18 tbe officers appeared in white for the first time. January 20 orders were given to get up steam, the wind having died out; but soon, a fair wind springing up, fires were banked. January 22, soon after eleven o'clock, the drum beat to general quarters, the first we had had at night.

The men turned out with great promptness, much to the satisfaction of the officers in charge of divisions. The wind dying out the next morning, orders were given to spread fires. The deep-sea lead was kept going all night at inter vals. At four a.m., Wednesday, January 24, we made the light at the mouth of the river Plate. The pilot came on board at nine a.m., and we steamed up tbe river at a rapid rate under three fourths power. Tbe sky was overcast, but cleared towards evening. The city of Montevideo came in view about five o'clock, and a little after eight o'clock we came to anchor in the outer roadstead, signalling the " Shenandoah" by rockets. Tbe long streets lit up by gas looked very beautiful to our weary eyes after forty-nine days at sea. The next morning we stood into the harbor, and came to anchor a short distance from the " Shenandoah."

Three other men-of-war were in the harbor, — an Italian, a Frenchman, and a Brazilian. MONTEVIDEO. Page Montevideo takes its name from a conical hill, which can be seen for a long distance, situated on the western side of the cir cular indenture in the river which forms the harbor. The town itself is on a point opposite, distant from it a mile or more in a direct line across the water. The hill is known as tbe " Cerro," or hill, par excellence. It is isolated, and rises gradually and regularly on all sides, at an angle of forty-five degrees, to a height of about four hundred and ninety feet. It is crowned by a small rectangular fortress, above which rises a tower some twenty or thirty feet, from which a flash light is shown. The fortress has been suffered to fall into a state of decay of late years, but the government, at the time of our visit, was making repairs and mount ing guns.