A narrative of events in the south of France, and of the attack on New Orleans, in 1814 and 1815.

Preface

As the first chapter of this book begins without the walls of Toulouse, the reader may ruminate how I arrived at that spot at so happy an epoch ; without taking a voluminous retrospect, I shall merely state that I served with the Walcheren expedition in 1809 ; in Portugal in 1811 ; at the siege and storming of Ciudad Rodrigo ; the siege and storming of Badajos ; was likewise engaged at the battle of Salamanca and the military displays and manoeuvres connected therewith, including the retreat from Alcala and Madrid to Salamanca, where we formed a junction with the left wing of the army retiring from the old castle of Burgos, when iv PREFACE. I

I

the whole army fell back upon the frontiers of Spain and into Portugal. I was at the battle of Vittoria and some of the battles of the Pyrennees, and was an eyewitness of the second assault and taking of St. Sebastian : w r as engaged at the subsequent attack on the heights of Vera the same day on which the left of the British army crossed the river Bidassoa, and penetrated into France ; was present at the battles of the Nivelle, the Nive, the affair at Tarbes, the battle of Toulouse, and various skirmishes : I also give this outline of my campaigns as a prelude to the following details of military events.

ERRATA.

Page 110, line 16, for « June, 1787," read " the 12th April, 1782." Page 296, lines 6 and 7, for "he tore down," read " he wished to tear down.''

A NARRATIVE,

ETC.

Chapter I. Languedoc

April 12th, 1814. — Camp of the light division, British army, on the north-east bank of the canal du Midi, and one mile from the fair city of Toulouse, the spires and venerable turrets of which overhang the rapid waters of the river Garonne. The sun shone merrily, and early this day I threw my leg across the back of my right-trusty little Spanish jennet. My cloak was no longer rolled across the pummel of my saddle, the coiled rope or halter had disappeared from the head of my steed, and the blanket, which was usually folded under my saddle, was left behind with buoyant disdain, for I now wished to consider myself mounted only like an armed gentleman. My moustache bristling up with an extra twist from the sugar canister, off I started from humble camp, at a good round canter, for the little pont Jumeau, and was happy to find that my faithful animal was not lamed by the effects of an acci-

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dent which happened two nights before. To accelerate the passing of the Spanish infantry at the late battle of Toulouse, a frail bridge had been constructed across a broad ditch or rivulet. It consisted of a few limbs of trees, with boughs loosely thrown athwart them. I was dashing over this at full speed, in the darkness, but I soon found that my horse was sinking at every step, and I stuck spurs to its sides. The animal plunged violently with all fours to regain its legs, one of which had now penetrated through the apertures in the branches of this treacherous bridge. At length we luckily gained the opposite bank, but the animal was down upon its nose, and the sinews of my legs were much strained from the exertions made to keep anything like a seat on so boisterous an occasion. Making a final effort, however, man and horse were once more erect, but the animal trembled so violently that I was fain to dismount to coax it before I proceeded on my way.

Reaching the Paris road, I had a good opportunity of examining the little bridge, called the pont Jumeau, constructed with a single arch across the canal du Midi, precisely like those thrown over canals in England, or elsewhere, and which bridge had been unsuccessfully attacked by two regiments of general Sir T. Picton's division on the day of the battle.

The broad road leading to the Jumeau bridge was a dead flat, and the earth entrenchment, thrown across it to defend the pass over the canal, looked at a short distance like a trifling embankment ; but upon coming

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close to it the dry ditch was found to be six feet deep, and as many wide ; on the opposite side, the earthbank, behind which the French soldiers were posted, rose about five feet, so that the assailants had to climb eleven feet from the bottom of the ditch.

The British troops, of the third division, who were charged with the assault of this work, had run along the flat road several hundred yards under a sharp cracking of small arms, but being without ladders they could not surmount this obstacle, and were glad to run back again, with some loss in killed and wounded ; they were thus baffled by one of the most insignificant looking banks that probably ever was seen. There can be little doubt that a few short ladders might have been found in some of the houses adjacent to the ground occupied by the third division.

While this was taking place at the Pont Jumeau, the riflemen of the light division, who were stationed opposite a similar bridge, the Pont des Minimes, were ever and anon aiming a cool shot at their opponents, without, however, attempting to attack the position. Their orders were only to hold the enemy in check on that point. The possession of the bridge would have been of no utility, as beyond it was a space of flat exposed ground of more than a quarter of a mile in extent, immediately overlooked from the old walls and towers of Toulouse.

The repulse of this part of the third division was la fortune de la guerre, and history, from the earliest days, tells of the hard knocks that the bravest soldiers

b2 have sustained against stone walls or entrenchments, in Spain as well as elsewhere.

The general brilliancy of the victory of Toulouse dazzled the public sight, and somewhat screened this attack from so much notice as it might otherwise have received ; yet as it was the last effort made by the gallant third division during this eventful war, it may be called an unlucky occurrence. No division more felt it to be so than the light, which always watched the motions of the third with so much pleasure, and was ever the foremost to give a meed of praise to the " fighting division," whose well-timed assistance was often of so much benefit to it. The feeling was the stronger in consequence of these two divisions having composed one and the same after the battle of Talavera de la Reyna, in Spain. If any rivalry did exist, it was only which of them should be foremost to serve its king and country. But before I drop this little failure at the tete de pont, I will just hint, that had such an occurrence happened in the Western or New World, more would have been said about it, whether justly or unjustly.

And now, first claiming the same privilege, of recounting ailments or pleasures, which is allowed to other travellers, I will slowly jog along at a walk or a trot, as the case may be, making my observations on the joys or the sorrows of the people with whom I may chance to associate. But, before I proceed, let me be indulged in one remark as to the close of this great European war drama. Of the many officers and sol-

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diers who had figured in the Peninsular conflict, it fell to the lot of few to reach the walls of Toulouse. The most of them were now away from the soul-inspiring accompaniments of martial appeals and aides-de-camp at full gallop. Then, again, other military men shouting and huzzaing — come on — go on my fine fellows — now here— now there — and oh, for God's sake keep together ! Then, again, the intonation of the cannon's roar, the volumes of smoke rolling past the silent columns of reserve of horse and foot, and the lighted matches of the cannoniers. — But truce, my pen.

As we trotted, one after the other, under the gateway into the city of Toulouse, nothing could exceed the joyful transports of its good people. The authorities greeted the Marquis of Wellington officially, and the canaille knocked the bust of Napoleon from the front of the capitol, and dashed it to fragments on the pavement ! We may derive an excellent moral lesson from the popular phrenzy which could thus treat the bust of a man who, only a brief space of time before, was the idol of these very people. Young as I w T as at the time, I could not help laughing in my sleeve at the inconsistency of this brute violence. Groups of ladies promenaded the streets, and crowds of grisettes, in their lace caps and holiday suits, rushed from place to place, crying, Vive notre bon Roi! — Vive Vellington! — Vive les Anglais! — Vive les Espagnols /—and Vive les Portugais ! and familiarly approached us to feel, with their ruddy hands, les habits rouge.

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In the height of this display of popular phrenzy I was not a little shocked to see moving through the crowd a car-load of their countrymen, hussars and chasseurs, with their heads and faces wrapped in the folds of blood-stained bandages, their arms in slings or splints, and their jackets nearly glued to their backs from sabre-cuts. The poor patient inanimate creatures looked as if life were on the ebb, and that they were quite unconscious of the fiddling and the noisy mirth in the streets, which resembled a sort of unmasked carnival.

The following day I joined a long procession of British officers, on foot, to attend the funeral of Lieut.- Colonel Forbes, of the forty-fifth regiment, who was killed opposite the aforesaid little tete de pont. He was interred with military honours at Le JPape la Marque, a piece of flat ground half a mile north-north west of the city, and near the canal du Midi. In the evening the theatre was thrown open gratis to the British officers, and was filled to excess. It is moderately spacious, but indifferently painted. Between the first performance and the afterpiece an actor came forward to announce the abdication of Napoleon at Fontainebleau. This was the first intimation of that event given to the British army, and to convey an idea of our astonishment would be out of the question. Such is the want of communications in those countries, and so unlooked for was the event, that when it was first announced from the stage, I absolutely felt a sort of chill of surprise pass through my veins, and a sen-

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sation as if the hairs of my head were bristling up to keep my moustache company.

At first a few stifled acclamations escaped the citizens in the pit; but to such a surprising piece of news we could hardly give credit, and we looked doubtingly at one another. A buzz ran through the theatre, and the actor being again called for he came forward, with a theatrical air, turning his eyes on every side for admiration, as though vanity prompted him to consider himself the dispenser of great events. While settling his cravat, he awaited with the utmost sang froid until the ebullition of the public applause had somewhat subsided. Then, with two measured steps, he placed himself close to the stage lamps, to enable the varied group of spectators to witness the extent of his loyalty, and the orchestra struck up Vive Henri Quatre.

At the conclusion of the drama the whole town presented a blaze of light ; the streets were thronged with people, all the cafes were thrown open, and the females who preside in them, and who may be said to sit in state, were seated behind semicircular counters, which were covered with artificial bouquets, glasses, sweetmeats, and refreshments. These females, who are usually selected for their beauty, wore caps of an extraordinary size, highly decorated, and tied under the point of the chin, which added much to the expression of their countenance. Being so gaily bedizened they looked at a little distance not unlike wax-dolls, but presented a lively effect. Their glances are so adroitly

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managed that each swain, seated at a marble slab, who may be partaking of eau de vie from a small silver bowl or sipping cafe or orgeat, flatters himself that he is the object of her peculiar notice. A young man with a well-frizzed head, qui mange les bonbons, is generally seated or lolling near the fair one's elbow, and assists at an agreeable tete-a-tete, which is by no means a bad arrangement, as it prevents strangers from incommoding her by a too lengthened strain of complimentary expressions.

A truly laughable incident happened while I was lounging in this ancient city. A friend of mine who had received a classical education, and who afterwards could boast of speaking the French tongue pretty fluently, was on all occasions quizzing me for my English- French pronunciation ; but at this time he was sorely puzzled to see written up in large characters at every few yards Ici on coupe le cheveux. " There," said he, " look! again it is written up Coupe le cheveux!" Having passed a considerable number of these notices he at last exclaimed, putting on a most wonderfully grave physiognomy, " if ever I knew so many horse-cutters in a town in my life!" Need I say, certainly not to old campaigners, as an explanation, that my companion, fresh from camp, with the snorting of Spanish stallions and the other unmusical accompaniments of the entire ass and the mule still ringing in his ears, mistook Coupe le cheveux, hair-cutter, which he translated as horsecutter, as if it had been written up Ici on coupe les.

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y vhevaux, the a being the letter which completely changes the meaning.

A detachment of highland soldiers and also the national guard did duty at the hotel of the Marquis of Wellington. The latter were clothed in well made blue uniforms, with red epaulets, white cross-belts, a cocked hat, and a nodding feather; this tout-ensemble exhibited a handsome appearance, and they seemed highly pleased with their novel occupation. Three or four days after our entrance, the Marquis of Wellington gave a ball, to which several of us were invited. The mansion was handsomely hung with silken drapery, the salon was well lighted, and the floor highly polished, setting off to advantage the small satin slipper of the belles de Toulouse, who were elegantly attired in the newest Paris fashion. Their waists were ridiculously short, and they wore their hair without curls, drawn tight up and twisted round the top of the head, interspersed with a wreath of flowers. At the first glance this style of costume appeared preposterous, but it was a la mode, and who can refrain from admiring une dame charmante in all fashions ? Their manner of dancing was truly elegant, and I cannot call to mind, at any period of my life, a more highly finished quadrille party, for they glided with noiseless step to the exact measure of the silver strains of the music.

During our stay at Toulouse we had a good opportunity of noticing the costume of its inhabitants, who are considered in this part of the country les vrais Francais.

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The ladies wore large bonnets and ruffs, their dresses were well trimmed and highly decorated. Les bourgeois were habited in a very unbecoming fashion, a small round hat was perched, a c6te, on the top of the head ; the coats, principally of a light mixt colour, with large buttons, were high collared and long waisted, with short broad skirts, and fitted their slim bodies loosely ; the lower garments, or inexpressibles, were made tight as far down as the calf of the leg, and then so wide and long as almost to trail on the ground.

His Britannic Majesty's foot guards, the King's German legion, Lord Aylmer ? s brigade, and the fifth division, had not, like ourselves, dived into the interior of France, but merely skirted the sea-coast, and the banks of the Nive and the Adour, for the blockade of the fortress of Bayonne. This position likewise pro* tected the rear of the British army, and secured a retreat should it become indispensable. For Wellington, like other generals, gave way to an approaching storm when necessity required it, to avert greater evils* and prudently floated with the military current, when it was no longer to be stemmed. More than once had the British retreated, in the south of Europe, and might be obliged to retreat again, for Mars is a fickle god, and has sometimes given the greatest heroes the slip at the moment when his desertion of them was least expected.

It cannot therefore be wondered at, that we all felt considerable surprise when the news came to us that

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n the garrison of Bayonne had made a sortie before daylight, on the morning of the 14th of April, and had wounded and taken prisoner the British commander General Sir John Hope ; and that more than 900 men on either side had fallen, without the least benefit to French or English. The sole result of this fight was a savage and vindictive carnage, for, after it both parties kept their positions, the blockaders being, as before, without the walls of the fortress, and the blockaded within them.

While we were walking in a by-street near a large house, we observed a most fascinating young lady enter the porch, (whom I shall hereafter have occasion to mention,) who flew up the spacious stair-case, and presented herself at the window, her peculiar headdress setting off her beautiful countenance to the most exquisite advantage. It consisted of a white satin hat, a la militaire, with a rim about two inches broad, and rolled up at the sides, something after the fashion of the rim of a round hat, but with a lofty crown, garnished at the top with an ample rosette a cote, and a nodding ostrich feather. The latter, gently agitated, gave grace to the costume of one of the prettiest fairies that ever flitted past my vision. This lovely being was often the theme of our subsequent conversation, and our after meeting with her, at a distant place, was quite a circumstance of romance. Looking at each other in wonderment, we were half inclined to doubt whether she had not descended from the ethereal regions in

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Cupid's car, to gladden our eyes with another sight of her animated countenance, and of her faultless proportions, robed in transparent and flowing drapery, and her feet and ancles, cast in beauty's mould, cased in tiny slippers, shaped to grace only the feet of her who wore them.

The war was considered as concluded, but still the Duke of Dalmatia declined negociating, pleading his want of authority to do so, and it was a laughable circumstance that he had dispersed printed hand-bills over the country, accusing the English of coming amongst them with the torch of anarchy to foment discord, when, in point of fact, the political state of the nation had already reached the acme of confusion, desertions having taken place from the French army to a great extent. In truth, it was almost impossible to believe, that the small force under the Duke of Dalmatia could be the residue of that mighty phalanx of troops that so short a time before traversed Spain with martial strides.

The moveable columns of Suchet, Duke of Albufera, were talked of among the British troops, but the major part of his force was locked up in the Cata- Ionian posts and fortresses, and his disposable troops had dwindled into insignificance in point of numbers, so that it was all a farce to talk of their acting south of the Pyrenees, against the Anglo-Portuguese and Spanish armies, which so out-numbered them. Added to this, there had been a sort of military flirtation a

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month before, when King Ferdinand crossed the Pyrenees into Catalonia, after his long and close captivity in France. It was the restoration of the monarch to the crown of his ancestors which brought about the flirtation in question, as part of a Spanish and French army were drawn out face to face, presenting arms one to the other. This sort of coquetting tended to neutralize the efforts of their allies and brethren south of the Pyrenees ; while the Dukes of Dalmatia and Albufera were constantly sending despatches one to the other on the means of making the last stand, to extricate themselves from the labyrinth of difficulties by which they w r ere compassed.

For some days the Duke of Dalmatia continued to decline negotiating with Wellington. We were, therefore, once again put in motion, and marched some leagues on the road to Ville Franche. We had, however, hardly taken up our ground on the tented field, when a carriage was driven past at a swing trot, escorted on one side by an English heavy dragoon in red, and on the other by a French horse-chasseur, dressed in green. This equipage conveyed the Count de Gazan, for the purpose of treating with Wellington on the part of the dukes of Dalmatia and Albufera.

The preliminaries of an armistice being in course of adjustment, we retraced our march towards Toulouse, and, as two hundred soldiers from England had joined our corps two or three days after the battle of Toulouse, there was no lack of officers. A party of us,

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therefore, threw off all restraint, scraped together our best uniforms, made for Toulouse at full gallop, dashed into the court-yard of the Hotel d 'Angleterre, and ordered dinner, which was to consist of every delicacy in season. Every face was decked in smiles while quaffing the choicest wines, and the delicious liqueur a la Dantzic* This jovial repast being finished, we repaired to the capitol, where a ball was to be given by the inhabitants of the town* Upwards of two thousand people attended upon this occasion, and the ball-room was so crowded that for some hours a quadrille could scarcely be formed, and the waltzers were obliged to content themselves by turning on their own circle. A clumsy militaire, who was a perfect novice in that art, must needs seize hold of a charming demoiselle round the waist to figure away in a pair of long and ragged-pronged screwed spurs. While he was making a rapid whirl with heels up in the air, one of his spurs got entangled in the folds of a young lady's rosecoloured satin slip, and rent it in twain — terrible catastrophe ! The fair one lifted up the tattered skirt, and at the doleful sight turned up her beautiful blue eyes, and fell fainting into her mamma's arms. She was the most lovely girl in the room, and it was utterly impossible to gaze on the anguish portrayed on her innocent countenance, as the burning tears rolled down her blooming cheeks, without deeply sympathizing in her misfortune, for she was forced to quit the brilliant salon, filled by youthful warriors, who were clad in the

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most splendid uniforms of all the colours of the rainbow, which were embroidered with a profusion of gold and silver lace — a costume ever in unison with the rich dresses, sparkling with costly ornaments, which bedeck the fair sex.

At the expiration of two or three days the rejoicings at Toulouse began to subside ; we, therefore, ordered out our horses, and rode off on the Paris road, towards Montauban, in search of our regiment. The evening was freezingly cold for the season of the year, and, consequently, after a pretty long ride we found our appetites much increased. We therefore reined in and entered a small auherge; but, although this publichouse was encircled by a plentiful country, nothing could be more miserable than its accommodation, and we were obliged to content ourselves with an omelette and un petit gout d 'eau-de-vie. Having fed our horses we again started, but, darkness coming on, we were for some hours benighted, and could obtain no tidings of our division ; at last, seeing a glimmering light through the casement of a cottage, we made towards it, and were directed by the amiable country folks to Montech, a few hundred yards to the right, on the road branching off to Montauban. On entering the small town the shops were all closed, the streets were quite empty, and hardly a light was to be seen at any of the windows, and myself and companion agreed that we had got into rather a gloomy place for our cantonment. After traversing a street or two we came lb

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on a stray soldier, who conducted us to a large rusty looking brick-built mansion, which was chalked off for our billet de logement. As soon as the door was opened, our hopes revived at beholding a pretty demoiselle, who was busily employed in hurrying and pushing forward a couple of Jilles de chambre with lights to conduct us along a spacious passage, from whence we were ushered unto a comfortable room with a blazing wood fire. A supper table was already laid out, with an invitation to assist mamma and daughter in anatomizing a roast capon, garnished with sausages, and with keen appetites we set to work, and could not refrain from an inward smile of satisfaction at our boa fortune, as we curled our moustaches, and quaffed off^ by half goblets, du bon vin de Bourgogne.

Had we been mamma's own darlings, she could not have watched over our petit soupe with more solicitude. Mademoiselle Clementine Adelaide asked us, w r ith the utmost naivete, whether it was really true that les dames Anglaises possessed feet aussi lorigues que sa bras® Although our present sentiments savoured very much of two deserters, yet we still had sufficient patriotism left to intimate that she had been misinformed as to the deficiency of charms in our fair countrywomen ; assuring her that English ladies were as fair as lilies, tris Men faites and of joli tournure. Now as Adelaide's complexion had a strong dash of the brunette, the colour instantly mantled her cheeks, her dark southern eyes emitted sparks of fire — and hanging down her

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head, she said, " then, Messieurs, I presume vous admirez les blondes." We spent a delightful evening, and, as we were provided with fine sheets and good beds, the sun had risen some hours before we awoke from our tranquil repose. As there was no longer any hasty packing of portmanteaus, nothing could exceed our happiness on descending a flight of steps which communicated with the garden, where we found Adelaide ready to receive us, with a blooming rose in each hand, which she presented with that gentle manner so peculiar to the French. The town, which looked so uninviting the night before, now assumed quite a different aspect. It is nearly encircled by a promenade, and its inhabitants are almost entirely composed of those economical and genteel families which inhabit the plains of Languedoc. The river Garonne runs two miles west of this place, and four miles to the eastward stands the large and populous town of Montauban, which is approached from Montech by an excellent road passing through a fruitful district. The country abounds with extensive plains of corn, vineyards, flower-gardens, and fruit-trees, which envelope the various mansions and cottages — all articles of provision, as well as wines, are abundant in the neighbourhood, and at a very low price. Wood is the only article consumed with a sparing hand ; small forests are reared in the vicinity for firewood, but the growth is unequal to the consumption; and although the Garonne is within so short a distance of the place, yet the stream flows

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downwards with such rapidity that it can only be used with advantage for exportation. #

The inhabitants of Montech are principally royalists ; therefore, during our stay at this place, our time was exclusively devoted to pleasure. During the latter end of April and the beginning of May nothing can be more charming than the face of the country ; the fruit-trees are covered with variegated blossoms, and the gardens are decked with the gayest flowers ; and could I do full justice to the scene, and the whirl of festivities which followed at the close of a sanguinary war, the narrative would be treated as savouring more of a romance than a story of reality. Every door was thrown open ; wives and daughters were entrusted to our care ; every night there was a ball, and every day a pique nique, or a fete champetre. Madame la Marechale de Perignon was the principal lady in the place, and the family consisted of the youthful Comtesse de Lanusse and Mademoiselle Caroline Perignon, a charming young lady about fifteen years of age, so ladylike, and free from affectation.

This family we escorted every where, and when the carriage of the Perignons chanced to be filled with ladies, another vehicle was invariably provided for us, so that we might join the cavalcade; and to give a faint idea of the manner we passed six weeks in the sunny plains of Languedoc, I must draw an outline of

* Since steam-vessels have plied on this river, the interior of both Languedoc and Gascony must have been incalculably benefited.

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some of the parties. The hall-door of Madame la Marechale was never closed, and should there be a lack of amusement elsewhere, the soiree was always spent there, with either music, dancing, or games of forfeits.