Leather working

Front matter

H

Edite

HOU£

Preface

i\ This Handbook contains, in a form convenient for 1 everyday use, a comprehensive digest of the information on Leather Working, scattered over more than twenty thousand columns of Work — one of the weekly journals it is my fortune to edit — and supplies concise information on the details of the subjects on which it treats.

In preparing for publication in book form the mass of relevant matter contained in the volumes of Work, much had to be arranged anew, altered, and largely re-written. From these causes the contributions of many are so blended that the writings of individuals cannot be distinguished for acknowledgment.

Readers who may desire additional information respecting special details of the matters dealt with in this Handbook, or instructions on kindred subjects, should address a question to Work, so that it may be answered in the^columns of that journal.

P. N. HASLUCK.

Man, 1901.

Contents

CHAP. PAGE

I. — Qualities and Varieties of Leather . . 9

II.— Strap Cutting and Making ... 17

Chapter I. Qualities And Varieties Of Leather

This handbook will describe how to make a large number of useful articles in leather. Naturally, some mention of tools must come first, but it is not thought necessary to give space to their description here, as they have already been dealt with so fully and illustrated so clearly in companion volumes, " Boot Making and Mending," and " Harness Making." They will be indicated sufficiently in later chapters as the need for their use arises. This chapter will discuss leather, its qualities and varieties.

Commercial skins are classified in Watt's " Art of Leather Manufacture " under three heads, namely : 1. Hides— or the skins of the large and fullgrown animals, as the ox, cow, buffalo, horse, and hippopotamus ; 2. Kips— or the skins of the younger animals of the same class ; and 3. Skins — as those of the smaller animals, such as the calf, sheep, goat, deer, etc. The skins most extensively used in leather manufacture are those of the ox, cow, horse, calf, sheep, goat, kid, pig, deer, seal, and kips, but recently the skins of crocodiles, alligators, and serpents have been employed for making certain kinds of fancy leather.

Particulars of the many varieties of leather may now be given. > Pate nt Calf. — In making this leather, the skin, having received its preliminary preparation, is

1 o Lea ther Working.

stretched upon a smooth board, and every particle of grease extracted from it with fuller' s-earth and water. It is then given four coats of varnish containing drying oil, vegetable black, and Prussian blue. As each coat is applied, the leather is stoved and afterwards polished with powdered pumicestone. The final coat has an addition of darker Prussian blue, and sometimes a little copal or amber varnish. The stove heat varies from 120° to 180° F., according to the leather under treatment.

Waxed Calf.— After depilation and tanning, the skin has to pass through a variety of processes, namely soaking, fleshing and skiving, graining, finishing, stretching, stuffing, compo-ing, drying, whitening, blacking, sizing, polishing, etc. This will give some idea of the amount of handling a calf-skin goes through before it is converted to leather. French calf skins, especially " females," are the best, and softest in wear, although those of English production are, in some cases, very fine ; the latter, not being so soft, are more suitable for stronger and heavier work than French.

Memcl Calf. — With few exceptions this is treated in the same way as waxed calf. In some cases the whole skin is treated ; but in a great many instances it is only the shoulders, or perhaps the necks, that are made into memel. It should be well tanned. The compo-ing is done on the grain side, and the stuffing on the flesh side, and not so much of either is needed as for wax calf. It is grained with a roller according to the sort of grain required, whether pebble, long, etc. After oiling, sizing, and drying, the graining is finished, the leather is finely oiled, and is then ready for use.

Busset Calf is used either dry or with a little oil dressing ; in the former case it is very pale, the oil making it a little darker. Horse and other animal belly rounding is now often dressed in a like manner.

Qualities and Varieties of Leather, ii

Its preparation is similar in some respects to that of other dry-dressed leathers, and, among other processes, it passes through a solution of borax, weak sulphuric acid, and a warm bath of Sicily sumach and alum, which forms a mordant when further dyeing is needed.

Tan Calf has been produced to imitate Russia leather at less cost, and there now is a greater quantity used for the best class of work than of real Russia. Each season brings its varied and improved shades. The calf skin is such a ready recipient of dyes, that by manipulating with various mordants the expert leather dyer can produce some very delicate tints.

Ooze Calf is a very soft leather in wear, and most durable if kept well cleaned. It has a nice pebble grain, which generally forms the face. The flesh side is a velvet pile, and when first produced was considered the right side, and it was so made up and advertised as "velvet calf." But the grain is the side now generally preferred.

Calf Kid is a most useful leather made by tawing, not tanning. It has to pass through the following routine : Soaking, cleaning, liming, unhairing, fleshing, paring, scudding, drenching, alum and salt dressing, drying, seasoning, staking, shaving, egging, dyeing, and finishing. The difference between tanning and tawing is briefly this — When tanned, the greatest component part of a skin, namely gelatine, is, by the action of tannic acid, formed into leather, of which these two ingredients are the chief factors. The acid arrests decomposition, and the two ingredients cannot return to their former state ; whereas, in tawing, alum, salt, and gelatine form the leather, and although the two former prevent decomposition of the gelatine, each ingredient can be brought back to its original state.

Glace or French Kid is a very delicate and fine surfaced leather. It is subjected to a process of tawing which imparts to it great suppleness. It is dyed upon the grain side, except when bath dyed, which is rarely the case, and is then glazed and polished.

Glove Kid is made into leather by tawing in the same way as calf kid, but its character and uses are quite different.

Cordovan is made in many places other than its supposed place of origin — Cordova. It is tanned and curried on the grain side, and passes through some special processes, such as a bran bath and a fig bath. It is made a good deal from horse, goat, and even dog skin. An inferior leather, much like it, called "grain/' is used a good deal for cheaper work, and a much newer production, called " satin-hide/' is a similar leather, but possesses a smoother face. Cordovan stands easily first for durability, satin-hide being next.

Morocco, Levant, is a beautifully grained and tanned goat-skin, dyed on the grain side, and finished with a bright pebble grain. A cheaper and somewhat greasy kind is not nearly so good-looking or durable in wear as the dry-dressed morocco levant, which has a beautiful soft brightness. Skins are produced in imitation of moroccos of various colours. These are called roans, and are made from sheep-skins, as " Cream Roans. "

Brown Levant Morocco is the same as morocco levant, except that it is made from younger and smaller skins, and is more finely grained.

Long-grain Morocco is, like the two last-named, made from the skin of goats, but has a long grain running across the skin. These leathers are tanned with sumach, provided by leaves and twigs. The better kinds are the Strasbourg moroccos.

White Sheep is a tawed leather, and forms a very soft material. Among the many processes it undergoes is the application of paste composed of flour and yolks of eggs, in addition to the alum bath which it has previously received.

Qualities and Varieties of Leather. 13

Cream Boan is made generally from good (medium weight) sheep-skins, sumach tanned, and is similar in structure to morocco, though, like all sheep-skin, it is less durable.

Brown Persian is obtained as a rule from Cape sheep. It make a fine, soft, tough leather ; when dyed it resembles morocco, but is left with a smooth grain.

Skivers, Brown, etc. — This is the grain of sheep-skin split by machinery (the flesh side being prepared for chamois or wash-leather). In appearance it is much like brown persian, except that it is extremely thin. This is really bookbinders' skiver, and is used for covering fancy articles.

Cowhide Patent, or enamel hide, is made from the hide of the cow. The process of enamelling is the same as that for patent calf, though in this instance the enamelling is done upon the grain side after the grain has been printed or otherwise prepared. It is now produced with a smaller grain than in former years, when it had a longer grain like the leather now used for bags, etc. It is now known more by the name Diamond hide.

Black Grain (Cow) Hide. — This is treated somewhat as wax calf, but the dyeing is done on the grain side, and as much stuffing is put in as it will possibly hold.

Brown Cowhide is made into leather by some of the preceding methods ; it is worked in the same way as black grain cowhide, but it is very slightly stuffed in cases where the natural colour is not needed and dyeing has to be resorted to.

Porpoise-hide is tanned and very greasily dressed, and makes a very soft and waterproof leather. It is expensive, but is exceedingly durable.

Crup or Horse is taken generally from the butt of the horseskin. It is practically the middle part of the skin that is dressed for this leather, as the grain and a good quantity of flesh are taken off.

When gooG^ft* wears well and is waterproof, and polishes more easily and better than calf. Its uses are the same as tho's.e of waxed calf.

Pigskin generally is. dressed brown. It is a tanned leather, light in weight, porous, very durable, and soft and cool to wear.

Bussia Leather is one of the best of brown leathers. According to Andrew Ure the process of dressing this leather is as follows : It is freed from hair, rinsed, fulled for a longer or shorter time according to the nature of the skin, and fermented in a proper steep (for a week at least) after a hot-water washing ; it is then worked on the beam after soaking for forty-eight hours in a bath containing a fermented paste of rye flour ; it is rinsed for fifteen days, then worked in the river, and subjected to the stringent juices of willow bark, etc. After a deal of working in this, it is set to dry and curried with empyreumatic oil of the bark of birch tree. To this substance the Russia leather owes its peculiarities. If the oil passes through it stains the grain side. The red colour is supposed to be from sandalwood or basil wood.

Kangaroo. — The skin of the kangaroo, when properly tanned, does not crack. It is one of the softest and prettiest leathers, and has been improved largely in recent years.

Buckskin. — To prepare this leather for use, the whole of the grain is cut away and oil is hammered into it, any excess of oil being removed afterwards. A vast amount of working is necessary to give it suppleness Doe is similar, but not so good.

Brown Glace Kid.- — This and the two following are believed to be produced by chrome tanning. Brown glace kid is an American production, and seems to vary much as regards retaining its colour in wear, according to the shade given it, the bright browns lasting well, while the dull or subdued tints sometimes change under the influence of cream dressings.

" Qualities and Varieties of Leather. 15

Box Calf. — The grain side is the face of this leather. It is somewhat like firm ooze calf, onlyblack, but resists moisture better. Many leathers are being made of this and a similar — green calf, for instance ;. also iron calf or kid, which is much like calf kid, but, from being dressed to resemble kid, is very useful, and an extremely strong leather.

Willow Calf is similar to box calf, but it is of a brown colour. It is made in good colours and retains them longer, perhaps, than any other sort of

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J A f

B i

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A

^ c

Fig". 1. — Method of Catting up Hide.

brown leather, and is easy to clean and repolish. It is used for all purposes for which box calf is employed.

Foreign B^tt (Bend) and Belly. — These, for the most part, are similar to the English butt, except that the processes of manufacture are different.

Basil is made by tanning the large and stouter kinds of sheepskins with oak and larch bark. This leather is generally used in the best class shoe trade only for pump inner : soles.

Welting is generally made from English shoul-

1 6 Lea thbr Working.

ders. These are converted into welting by being stuffed well with grease. They are used for the welts of hand-sewn boots and shoes. V^

It is now necessary to give a description of the different parts of a hide of leather. Fig. 1 gives a diagram of a hide, fully showing the various parts. a a are the best parts of the butt ; b b, top end ; c c, edge, or hitch pieces. The whole of above, combined, are commercially called butt ends, while with d d (the first cut) the whole would be a butt ; e e, part known as bellies ; f f, odd pieces, with others, are flanks, shanks, cheeks, and faces ; G g, shoulders ;abcd and G, folded at h h, are sides and bends.

i7

Chapter II. Stkap Cutting And Making

In making a gross (144 pairs) of common garters \ in. or | in. wide, the following tools will be required : — One hollow-ground knife ; one plain knife, not hollow-ground ; a punch (see p. 15 of " Harness Making"), with nipples from T Vin. to | in. in diameter ; a pair or two of pliers ; a screw-crease or two (see p. 19 of " Harness Making ") ; and a marking board of dry mahogany or any hard wood ^ in. to 1 in. thick, about 3 ft. long by 9 in. wide.

For the cutting board, use a piece of planed deal or pine free from knots ; mark from the end along one edge distances of 12^ in., 13^ in., 14^ in., and 15^ in. A hardwood measuring-off stick about 2 in. wide, 2 ft. long, and ^ in. thick should have the following lengths marked — 12 in., 13 in., 14 in., and 15 in. An emery stick about 1 in. square, of any length, with emery paper glued round, a few wire nails l£ in. long, and some leather and buckles, will be wanted. Glue a leather shaving on the back of each knife blade to 2 in. from the point, as a protection for the fingers gripping the blade when cutting the leather, which should be from T l j in. to ^ in. thick.

Begin to make the garters by placing the leather on the cutting board, and with the hollow-ground knife cut an edge of the leather straight. Then cut them out, using the thumbnail as a guide. An easy way is to set a pair of compasses or points to the required width of the strap (bare § in.), to cut an edge of the leather straight, and to run the points down the leather, which can then be cut to the mark made. Do not cut any shorter than the

B

12^-in. mark on the cutting board, and always examine the leather to see that there will not be much waste. Then point the lengths as in Fig. 2 with the other knife.

To mark the straps on the board, use the screw-crease set to x 2 in. The marking does not show up if not near the edge. Heat the point of the screw-crease in the gas or fire ; when it is at the proper heat it will move easily along the strap, leaving a bright glossy mark if a little force is exerted. The top of the strap is not marked. A small can containing water in which to dip the crease when too hot should be at hand. In heating by gas, mount on the pipe a tin can about 1^ in. in diameter. If the outside diameter of the gaspipe is \ in., cut down from the top with a pair of scissors two nicks about 1 in. long on opposite sides of the can ; then bend up the tin, push the can on the gaspipe, bend the strips down, and tie them securely with band or wire. The screw-crease, when being heated, rests on the bottom of the can. Of course, a small gas stove will do as well, and probably better.

Now punch a hole A (Fig. 2) for the tongue of the buckle in each strap about f in. from the top, and on the centre line ; three or four straps can be punched at a time. Then cut the bits. In Fig. 3 two kinds are illustrated ; A makes a better job, but is more difficult to cut than b. The edges can be marked to improve the appearance.

To buckle the garters, press the tongue of a buckle open and thread a strap through, putting the tongue in the hole A (Fig. 2) and bending back the | in. threaded through, as in Fig. 4. Hold the garter in the left hand, pressing down the |-in. length with the thumbnail, and put one edge of a bit just under the thumbnail, holding it firm. Then with a punch in the right hand make a hole through the bit, the ^-in. length, and the front of the strap. Lap the point of the bit from the back round the

Strap Cutting and Making.

front, and thread it through the hole. Put the buckle on a nail in the table and pull the bit A (Fig. 4) with the pliers. Cut the bit, leaving it about \ in. long. Then fasten the measuring off board to the table with a couple of springs, and measure the garters one at a time, putting together those measuring to 12^ in. long, then those measur-

Fiff. 3.— Garter Bits.

Fig. 2. — Marking Garter.

Fig. 4.— Garter Complete.

ing to 13| in., those measuring to 14| in., and those measuring to 15^ in., calling them 12s, 13s, 14s, and 15s.

For pairing, take a measured pile, then place two of the garters side by side and see whether they are of equal widths, and whether one is, say, \ in. to \ in. longer than the other. Then push the point of the longer garter through the bit marked b

(Fig. 4) of the other ; pull it through, when the points of the two garters should come fair. Thus the top garter of a pair is slightly the longer, the width of the bit on the shorter garter making the difference.

Next punch the garters down the leg, doing a pair together at first, until with practice two pairs can be done at once. Make six holes in the 12s and 13s, and seven in the 14s and 15s, the rule being half as many holes as the strap is inches long. The holes should just let the buckle tongues pass through.

Packing may be done by the round way or the length way. By the first method, place three of the 12s, one at a time, on the table with the flesh side facing the worker ; then pack three 13s as before, putting them at the back of the 12s, then pick three 14s, putting them at the back of the 13s, then three 15s at the back of the 14s. Twist the straps round, and it will be seen that the longer ones wrap round the shorter garters. Then tie the ends with band. For the length way, half a dozen garters are placed lengthwise one way and the other half dozen the other way, the shorter garters being packed in the middle. Three bands are tied across, one at each of the ends and one at the middle. The garters are packed in dozens and in half or whole grosses.

Leg straps are like garters, but generally have a roller buckle, and are 18 in. to 21 in. long ; rather stronger leather is used, and the straps are f in. wide.

Skate straps are generally % in. wide, and from 18 in. to 36 in. long, and can be made as above described, but for a stronger job the buckle tongue hole should be about 1 in. from the top. Then the point of the bit can be threaded through a hole punched on the centre line of the strap. They can also be made with double buckles, one part serving as the bit. They are either riveted or sewn.

Strap Cutting and Making.

Skate straps are also made with roller buckles. The strap is prepared as described, except that the bit is cut to Fig. 5 to go round the strap and meet at the back ; then punch a hole in the centre of each end, and with twine thread through both holes, pull the ends together, and tie. Then press the bits so that the knots are at the back, and slip one on each strap to the buckle. A rivet is put in just below the bit and goes through the portion which is lapped over ; or the pieces can be sewn by hand or machine.

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Fig. 5.— Strap Bit.

iii

Fig. 6.— Skate Strap:

In another form of skate strap (shown in Fig. 6), the part A is set out with a zinc template, and the two small garters b, which are riveted on, are about 3 in. long. The strap for these should be 6 in. long, and the hole for the buckle tongue should be punched in the centre, so that when they are fastened the rivets go through the back part as well as through the front. Sometimes this skate strap is curved a little, one strap being curved one way for one foot, and the other the other way. They are from 12 in. to 20 in. long and from 2 in. to 3 in. broad, and hold the front part of the skate, a strap from 18 in. to 21 in. holding the back part.

Parcel straps, 30 in. to 40 in. long, are made as described above, and are threaded through a nickel-plated, brass, or leather handle.

Dog-leads are handier for general use than are chains, being much lighter and more easily carried in the pocket. A necessary tool for making dog-leads is the hand punch, which is shown by Fig. 19, p. 16 of the companion volume " Harness Making " ; for use with this a few nipples of different sizes should be obtained.

For hollow-studding the dog-leads, the hand-punch riveter, shown by Fig. 7, is required, the top piece being countersunk so that the stud top a just fits in. Fig. S illustrates a number of hollow studs. For riveting studs of different shape, obtain a few

Fig. 7.— Hand-punch Riveter.

of the top pieces A (Fig. 7) bored out exactly to fit the studs. Solid buttonhead rivets look extremely well, and can be hammered into the leather without previously making holes for their reception ; for the latter reason they weaken the leather much less than do hollow studs A screw-crease, as shown by Fig. 37, p. 19, of "Harness Making," is necessary for giving a gloss to the edges of the straps, etc. ; the width of the mark made by it is regulated by the small screw, and the tool is heated slightly on the working part when required for use. Xote that the working part alone requires heating; avoid heating the screw and thus making it useless. Practise with the tool on scrap leather before using it on good work.

Strap Cutting and Making.

The simplest kind of dog-lead will be described first, and this is illustrated by Fig. 9. To make it, first cut out a good leather strap from 36 in. to 50 in. long and about \ in. or | in. wide. Run the hot crease along the edges of the strap so as to make a bright mark ; rub over and over again until the

Fig. 9.— Dog: Lead. Fig. 10. — Dog Lead Fig. 11.— Dog Lead with Swivel. with Studs and Ring.

required gloss is obtained. The hotter the crease, the smaller will be the pressure required, but care must be taken that it is not so hot as to burn and stick in the leather ; a good plan is to heat the tool well, dip the working part in water, and use at once. Loop, and then rivet or sew one end of the strap to form a handle. Cut a \ on the other end of the strap, punch a few holes as shown, and rivet on a buckle strap ; together with the buckle, this is 4^ in. long, and is creased or marked before riveting. This simple lead is now complete, and for use is buckled through the ring of the dog's collar.

In Fig. 10 is shown a better kind of lead, as the swivel G prevents it from twisting when the dog moves its head round. In making this dog-lead, proceed as before as far as the handle ; in the event of the leather not being long enough to allow of this, cut a strap 12 in. to 18 in. long, loop it, and rivet it on to form the handle. Put the other end of the strap for about 1 in. through the swivel G, and rivet as shown. The lead is then complete.

A still better dog-lead is shown by Fig. 11 ; it differs from the last one in having, instead of a leather handle, a l£-in. or 1^-in. martingale ring passed through a loop at the end and secured by a rivet. The lead is then given a more finished appearance. Instead of the martingale ring alone, the chain-end fitting illustrated by Fig. 12 may be used. It is attached in the same manner as the plain ring. The dog-lead shown at Fig. 11 can be ornamented by any of the hollow brass studs shown by Fig. 8.

In putting in the studs, first with the punch make a number of holes at an equal distance apart. The necks b (Fig. 8) of these studs should fit tightly in the holes ; when the studs are in the holes, with the rivet punch (Fig. 7) clinch their necks fast into the leather, the neck part being pressed outwards as in the section c (Fig. 8). D illustrates a stud having a rounded instead of a conical top.

Either brass or nickel-plated swivels will be suitable ; the latter, perhaps, look the neater when new, but are more quickly tarnished than brass, and thus require more frequent cleaning. These remarks apply also to the martingale ring and chain-end fitting.

Strap Cutting and Making.

A

Fig. 12.— Chain-end Fitting.

J

Fisr. 15.— Pattern for Wrist Strap Bit.

Fig. 16.— Folded Bit.

Fig. 17.— Bit Complete.

Fig. 13.— Wrist Strap.

Fig. 14.— Pattern for Wrist Strap.

The bifurcated rivets, used in fastening the different parts together, can be obtained nickel-plated, japanned, brassed, or coppered, as required, and are inserted and clinched with the aid of a hammer. Full instructions for doing this are given by the makers when sending out the rivets.

A strap for strengthening the wrist is shown in Fig. 13. First with a sharp knife cut a cardboard pattern to Fig. 14, and place it on a piece of thin, pliable leather, which may be of any colour required, though brown, stained, or enamelled looks the neatest. Mark carefully round the pattern with a lead pencil, and cut out just inside the pencil marks. Next, to cut out the slit a (Fig. 14), place the pattern on the leather, punch a small hole at each end of the slit, and cut out the piece between with the knife. The strap will be neater when finished if it is marked all round the edges (see Fig. 13) with a screw-crease.

Cut a piece of leather \ in. wide and 2 in. long, and on the centre line, near each end, with awl or punch make a small hole (Fig. 15) ; thread a piece of band through the two holes and tie it or sew the end. Cut the ends of the band close to the leather to Fig. 16, and bend the leather over, so that the jointed part is at the centre (Fig. 17). Put this bit on the end c (Fig. 13), then put the buckle tongue through the hole d (Fig. 14), bring the end B through the buckle and over the jointed part of the bit and sew down, or rivet with a bifurcated nickeled rivet. To finish, punch seven holes down the fastening part of the wrist strap. A nickel-plated buckle looks neatest.