The thistle and the cedar of Lebanon

Front matter

THE THISTLE

AND

BY

Preface

used by Professor Johnson in his learned Oriental and English dictionary, and which, I believe, is the one now adopted by all the eminent scholars of Europe.

I cannot conclude without offering my heartfelt thanks to my friend, the Rev. Wm, Frederick Witts, Fellow of King's College, Cambridge, for the valuable assistance he has rendered me in revising these pages for the press. R. A.

18, Cambridge-square, Hyde Parle, May, 1853.

Contents

Page.

Introductory Chapter.

Chapter I

Reminiscenses of early Childhood— My Birth-place — Sheikh Fans Biridi — Early Tuition — Family Customs — Position of Shuwei-fat, and Pastures — Inhabitants— Author quits for Beyrout 1

CHAPTER IX

Beyrout — Piratical Attack — Flight to Mountains — Effects of the Assault upon the Inhabitants 14

CHAPTER HI.

Damascus — Author's First Visit to — Description of the Town — The Inhabitants — The Customs and Manners — The Ladies — Their Beauty and Freedom — Court-yards and Houses — Bazaars — Environs— Soirees — Games — Specimens of Poetry and Songs — Wonderful Legend — Refreshments — Entertainment given by the British Consul — Privileges of Christians — Padre Tomaso — American and British Missions — Population — Antiquity — Ravages by Cholera 18

CHAPTER IV.

Return to Beyrout — American Mission — Original Difficulties they encountered — How overcome — The Estimation of Physicians — Anecdote of Mr. Zohrab — American Doctors — Introduction to School— Reminiscences of School-days — Anecdote of Sheikh Ahmed— List of Missionaries— Adventure of Mr. Bird— The Pacha's Revenge — Description of the Rise of the Settlement and Trade at Beyrout — Climate, Hints with regard to 39

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V.

Visit to Cyprus — Description of Voyage — Arrival at Larnaca — Visit to Nicosia and other towns — Cyprus Wines — Languages — Departure for Tersous — Arrival at Mersine — Scenery in Cilicia— Gardens — Buildings of Tersous — Streets — Climate — Inhabitants — Signor Michael Saba — Adana — Its Shops and Streets — Inhabitants— Fanati cism — Revolts — Pacha's Service — The Pass of Kulek Bughas — Scenery — Departure for Ayas

CHAPTER VI.

Ayas to Scanderoon — Scanderoon to Aleppo — Description of Journey — The Aleppines — Their Style and Polish — A Wedding described — Syrian Step-mothers — Jewish and Christian quarters — Earthquake of 1822 — Pastimes and Garden Parties — Population — Commerce — Departure for Antioch— Gessir il Haded — Orontes — Antioch

CHAPTER VE

Antioch — Its Beauty and Fruitfulness — Visit to Suedia and Lattakia — Signor Mosi Elias — Hardships rendered by Consular Agents — Anecdote of English Travellers — Uses and Abuses of the Protection System — Fanaticism of Moslem populace — Produce — Lattakia to Tripoli — Oranges — Abu Rish — Signor Catsoflis — A fair Intercessor for Justice to the Injured — Results of the Appeal— Cedars of Lebanon — Baalbec — Anecdote of English Forces— Turjaman Bashi — Strange character of Sayid Ali — Damascus — Djouni and Sidon — Lady Hester — General Loustaneau — Description of Sidon — Bombardment of St. Jean d Acre — Kaipha and Mount Carmel — Mistaken ideas of Love

CHAPTER VIII.

First Visit to England — Sail for Malta — Miseries of Sea-sickness — Arrival at Malta — The Emir Beschir— Late Bishop of Jerusalem — Steam Frigate Gorgon — Arrival at Portsmouth — Rev. Baptist Noel — London — Souvenir of Wimbledon — A Duel prevented — Anecdote of Druse Sheikh — Return to Syria — Sir George Otway — Arrival at Beyrout — War between Druses and Maro-

CONTEXTS.

Ill nitea— Stamboul— Emir Kasim. His History— Lord Cowley— Dr. Bennett — Mr. Goodall — Eeturn to England — Malta — Marseilles— Adventure with French Officer— M. G-uizot— Sulirnan Pacha— M. Thiers— Delicate Mission— And val in England— Prinee Callimaki — Mr. Zohrab — Mr. B. Phillips— King's College. London— Medical Profession — Lectures — Frightful Accident — Long ILlness — Admission as Member of King's College — The Mir Shahamet Ali and Sir C. Wade— Visit to Manufacturing Districts — Lamartine

CHAPTER IX.

Visit to Paris— First Impressions— Boulevards— Champs Elysees— Description of a L . f._ raise — Domestic Habits of the French — Englisn and French Friendship — Departure for Con-

Impressions of England — Letters to a Friend in the East — Voyage to England — Landing — Custom-house — Crowde I Thoroughfares —English Activity — Hotel — Servants — Drive — Motley Groups — Square; — Park— Houris— Heartaches — Dinner — English Splendour, but Syrian Ease and a Chibouk preferred — English Acquaintances — Society — Young Ladies — Their Freedom — Matrons — Their Acquirements — Etiquette — Dress — Widows — Gentlemen — English Sabbath — Public Schools and Colleges — The Queen — M ; ssionary and Charitable Institutions — Great Wealth of the English— The Merchants— The Fashionable World — The Opera — Expensive Pleasure — Insatiable Craving tor Riches — Desire for an English Home — Marriages — Children — Schooling — Absence of Beverence for Beards — Devotion of the Young Fair Sex to their Forms — Kin dm ss to Strangers — Interest in the Holy Land — Hospitality— Private Worth and Public Scheming 1 6 1

CHAPTEB XL

Reminiscences of Stamboul — Entertainments — Songs — Tl

and the Sultan— The Sultan's Condescension — Marriage of the Daughter of Prince Vogiredis— Turkish Xavy— Present Crisis—

A renegade Girl 17 3

b iv

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XII.

Egypt — Abbas Pacha and his Improvements— The British Consul- General— Mr. Abet — Mr. Larking — Boghs Bey — Antiquities- Climate — Library — Advantages enjoyed by European Residents — Festivities— Fulfilment of Prophecy— Late Gift of Horses presented by Nubar Bey to her Majesty — The Hon. G. Massey — Impressions made on the Grooms 190

CHAPTER XIII.

Life, Manners, and Customs of Syria — From the Cradle to the Tomb 203

CHAPTER XIV.

Syria and her Inhabitants — Description of the Southern parts of Palestine — The Misery of its Inhabitants — Their Disposition and Labours — Sea-coast Population — Their Habits — Scriptural Analogy — Sidon, Lebanon, Tripoli, Lattakia and Antioch — The Children of those Parts — Appeal to the British on behalf of Syria — Real State of the Turkish Empire — Safety of English Investments — The Turkish Dominions — How to purchase Property — English Emigrants would be welcomed in Syria — Mr. John Barker — Col. Churchill — Lady Hester Stanhope — Fruits — Cultivation of the Soil— Advantages for the English Emigrant and Amelioration for Syria— Major Macdonald — His Discovery of Turquoises and Presentation of some to the Queen — Advice to Emigrants— All Particulars and Expenses of Voyage explained, Outlay, Working, Expenditure and Profits derivable - -Climate recommended for Health 224

CHAPTER XV.

Syria, her Inhabitants and their Religion— Religious Teaching in Syria— American Missionaries— Their Zeal— Greek or Orthodox Eastern Church— Interview and Conversation with the Patriarch and Bishops at Constantinople— Letter from Syria— The Conversion of the Son of a Mufti to Christianity— Lord Shaftesbury and the Protestant College at Malta— Mahommedan Power and the Christian Churches in Syria— Claims of the Orthodox Eastern Church and its Affinity to the Protestant

CONTENTS.

V

Churches of England— The Four Patriarchs— Education of the Syrian Priesthood— The Service of the Orthodox Eastern Church— Dissenters from it— Account of Karolus their Patriarch Dispute ahout the Head dress and reference to Constantinople—Decision—Jealousies of the Christian Sects— Political Animosities

CHAPTER XVI.

The Maronites— Their Political Position— Anecdote connected with the Year 1821— Their Customs, Manners, and Religion — The Number of Roman Catholics in Syria— The Copts— The Nestorians s • • • • 264

CHAPTER XVII.

The Population of Syria continued — The Metoulis or Heterodox Followers of Mahomed — The Druses — The Nosairiyehs — The Yezidees 282

CHAPTER XVIII.

Appearance and Costume of the People — The Aleppine Greeks — The Dyers — The Armenian — The Yahoodee or Israelite — The Turkish Effendi-The Bedouin— The Fellaheen 301

CHAPTER XIX.

The Occupations of the People — Lebanon in April — The Mulberry Plantations — Anecdote— The Silkworms — The Wheat Harvest — Borghol — The Vintage— The Olive Winter — The Resources of Syria — The small Capitalist in Syria 315

CHAPTER XX.

The Comparative Influences of the Roman Catholic and Protestant Faiths in Syria — The Roman Catholics — Their Convents — Greek and Armenian Monasteries — The Knowledge and Practice of Medicine — The Influence of the Hakim — Anecdote — Conversions —The Sisters of Charity 333

VI

CONTENTS.

Pagb.

CHAPTER XXI.

The Remedy — The Early Apostles — Physicians — Missionaries — Introduction of the Silkworm from China-- Incorporation of the Medical with the Clerical Profession — Proposed Society to be formed in England — Hospital -School-rooms — Dispensary — Purchase of Land — Its Cultivation— System of Education- Letter of Dr. Thomson— Mr. Cuthbert Young's " Notes of a Wayfarer" 346

Visit to Devonshire, Bath, and Cheltenham —Conclusion — Visit to Lady Rolle — Description of Bicton — Travelling by an Express Train — A Coachman's Remarks — The Park — Arrival and Reception — Description of my Life — My Portrait taken — Amusements

Church — English Young Ladies — Cottage Visiting — Buildings erected by Lady Rolle at Bicton — Amusing Anecdote of an Eastern Princess — Drive to Exeter -Equipage — Cathedral — Erescos — Gaol — Child in Prison there — Eemale Department- Villagers" Opinions of me — Bath — Beauties of Country reminded me of Syria — Springs — Arrival — Sir Claude Wade — Tour of the City — Society — Diversity of Religious Opinions — Service — Soiree — Agreeable Rencontre — Second Visit to Bath — Bachelor's Ball — Lady Mayoress's Ball at the Guildhall — Recognition as a Eree-mason — Invitation to " The Lodge of Honour " to meet the Mayor — Meeting with Dr. Thompson — Lecture — Quoted from the Paper — Visit to Cheltenham— Rev. J. Brown — Rev. C. H. Bromley — Meeting— My Address— Appeal to send over for, and educate young Syrians at the Normal College at Cheltenham — Case, of a young Syrian Lad — Lord Northwick — His Collection of Paintings — Conclusion— Reasons for appearing before the Public as an Author . 357

CHAPTER XXII.

— Conversation with Mrs. P of Exeter about the Greek

Appendix

Note on the Geology of Syria by Professor Forbes pages, containing a brief sketch of my life and travels, together with a description of the customs and present condition of my native land, I am actuated solely by motives which, I trust, a careful perusal of this work will prove to be disinterested.

All nations are more or less patriotic ; none more so than the inhabitants of the British isles. With them the inducements to this love of home are all-sufficient, for their religion is the purest, their government and laws the best in the world, and they are second to no people in the enjoyment of privileges and blessings, such as could be only enjoyed by a "peculiar people," under the immediate protection of the Almighty Benefactor. Next to them we may rank, as promoters of freedom and enlightenment, the citizens of the United States, those other scions of a noble stock.

Yet so peculiar is that innate love of man for the particular country and people with which are associated the early years of his childhood, that even the son of utter darkness, born and bred a savage, inured to every hardship and privation, who boasts of no city, scarcely professes a religion, whose home is the desert waste, his bed the warm sands of Arabia, even he, the wild Bedouin, in his untutored heart, sets boundless store by the place and people to which early attachment has riveted his affections. Separate him from these and from his beloved mare, and no riches or pleasures could compensate him for the loss. This is also applicable to the humble and oftentimes oppressed natives who dwell in the towns and villages of Syria, Lebanon, and Palestine. Though for centuries they have been subjected to the heavy yoke of bondage, and of late years, like the Israelites of old, were bondsmen to Egypt ; however much they may have deplored their hard fate, none have ever dreamt of quitting the dear land of their forefathers — tnose ancestors who were coeval with the patriarchs. Some till the ground where Abraham once tended his flocks ; others cut timber where the men of Hiram and Solomon once hewed cedars for the temple at Jerusalem ; but the boast and glory of all these is, that they dwell in the land where the Promise was fulfilled. One may be by birth a Nazarene, another a townsman of Cana. A day or two's journey, at the furthest a week or ten days, enables him to reach that very Bethlehem where the blessed Redeemer was born, to track His holy footsteps in His pilgrimage of mercy from place to place, to weep and bemoan Him on the site of the last closing scenes of His holy life, and to raise up their hearts with grateful thanksgivings for the great salvation wrought out for their souls by His glorious resurrection.

Apart from these cherished associations of the spiritual with the temporal world, the native of the Holy

THE CEDAR OE LEBANON.

Land is fondly attached to his country, because its climate is congenial to his manners, its soil productive, its inhabitants hospitable, its waters the purest, air the freshest, sun the brightest, fruits the most delicious, and flowers the sweetest and most wildly profuse. All these sifts in the greatest luxuriance are to be found within the Lebanon range — that Lebanon of which the inspired bard, the wisest of men and the best of kings, sings in his beautiful metaphor on Christian love.* "Thy plants are an orchard of pomegranates with pleasant fruits .... A fountain of gardens, a well of living waters, and streams from Lebanon. 93

With such a past to dwell on, it is not surprising that the poor, neglected peasant of Syria may still proudly vaunt himself of his birthright and country. I, too, hope, kind reader, for your sympathy in my sharing this national characteristic, and for endeavouring, as far as in me lies, to promote the welfare, both temporal and eternal, of my fellow countrymen and native land. The former, alas ! are gradually sinking deeper and deeper into the meshes of superstition and idolatry : the latter groans trader a heavy yoke, rendered still less supportable by the grossest ignorance. The indefatigable propagators of the Eomish faith are awakening the people from their pristine simplicity, only, I fear, to plunge them into a more fearful vortex of errors.

I rush to the rescue ; for God has blessed me far above my coimtrymen, by shedding the true light of the Gospel around my pathway, through the instrumentality of good and holy men, whom He has chosen for His especial service, and who have bestowed on me

* Canticles., iv. 13—1-3.

the priceless boon of a Christian education. I am willing and anxious to devote every hour of my life, and all my poor means, to the furtherance of His cause. Yet, though much may combine in my favour, I am inadequate to the accomplishment of the good I desire for my country, without the aid, wise counsel, and support of the Christian inhabitants of Great Britain.

Christian reader ! in the following pages I have endeavoured to depict as clearly as I can the evil and the remedy. I have glanced over the leading features of my life, to show how circumstances, trivial in themselves, appear to have combined in my favour, that I should be an humble instrument in the hands of my Maker, to work out a brighter and better hope for dear Syria.

That "pearl of great price," pure Christianity, has been cherished and nurtured within these isles till the true faith has reared itself up like a mighty mirror, reflecting the glorious light of the blessed truths of the Gospel far and wide. May one beam of charity, reflected from thence, alight upon the mother church of Syria — that church now sunk in misery and degradation, but from which (remember, O Christian of Great Britain) was derived the glorious knowledge of an eternal salvation.

<e The Thistle that is in Lebanon " is the harassed, weak, yet simple disciple of the Eastern Church ; and " the Cedar that was in Lebanon" is the true Church of Christ, whose seeds were first derived from those Holy shores, and are now firmly rooted in England. The Thistle has sent to ask thy daughter, Enlightenment, in marriage to her son, Simplicity. O refuse her not ! lest the wild beast in Lebanon should tread down the Thistle and obtain the ascendancy.

THE CEDAR OF LEBANON.

CHAPTER I.

SCENES OF EARLY CHILDHOOD.

My earliest recollections are associated with the lovely and rural village of Shuwei-fat, my birth-place,, on the Lebanon; and where, if not the happiest, certainly the most innocent years of my childhood were passed. My father had no fixed residence at that place, but he, with the rest of his family, usually resorted there to spend the summer months and part of the autumn and spring. In winter the cold became intense, owing to the elevated position of the village; consequently most of its inhabitants and summer visitors, including amongst these latter my own family, invariably wintered at Beyrout. My uncle, Sheikh Faris Biridi, filled the important and respected post of katib, or secretary to the Emir Beshir Shahab, the prince of Lebanon, who resided at the village of Dayr-al Kamar, situated a few hours' journey from Shuwei-fat. At least three times a week my uncle's duties compelled him to visit the Emir. Sheikh Faris was universally respected amongst the villagers; and the best proof of this is the fact of his being Sheikh, or Chief Man of his village ; his house was the best — his grounds the most extensive, and he himself in reality, an intelligent and wellinformed man. For a Syrian, he was deeply read and e well skilled in the use of his pen ; but above all, he was an earnest and devout Christian, a kind father and a good friend — virtues which gained for him the esteem and love of all the neighbouring villagers, as well Moslems and Druses as the Christians.

Under the favourable auspices of this kind man's tuition, I first learnt to' read and write my native tongue ; and, as I was afterwards informed, even at that early age, gave cheering proofs of an active mind, and evinced an aptitude and love for the acquirement of knowledge, although then barely four years of age. I could not possibly have had a better guide, both as regards precept and example. So long as I remained under his hospitable roof, his great and chief care was to richly stock my young mind with doctrines well adapted to promote the welfare of the soul in after years on all important business. His household arrangements were an example for others. He was an early riser himself, and insisted on all his household following this healthful custom : his maxim was that sleep was for the dark hours of the night — work aDd recreation for the light — prayers and thanksgivings for all seasons.

My uncle was accustomed when at home to repair every morning, during the spring and summer seasons, to the top of a neighbouring hill, which commanded a view over an extensive range of country. On these occasions, it was my wont to accompany him. A servant preceded us carrying a small carpet and a cushion or two ; I carried my uncle's pipe and tobacco-pouch in one baud; in the other, the Kitab Mukaddas, or Arabic Bible, printed in England by the Church Missionary Society. As soon as my uncle had seated himself, and assumed his pipe, he would make me sit at his feet and read out to him from the good Book, illustrating and commenting

THE CEDAR OF LEBANON.

as opportunity occurred. The hundred and fourth Psalm, than which none could he better suited to the time and place, was usually his favourite.

From our elevated position, we could command a view, not only of our own dearly cherished and beautiful hamlet, but also of many of the surrounding villages. At our feet lay Shuwei-fat, with its neat little cottages and cleanly swept court-yards, surrounded by a dense little forest of .mulberries, oranges, lemons, apricots, olives, countless vines, and many other fruits; the dark leaves of an occasional poplar lending variety to the beauty and shading of the foliage. Not a man, woman or child, moved to and fro in the narrow little streets, but their names and occupations were well known to us. The dogs wagged their tails in happy recognition of my shrill sharp whistle, and a thousand echoes caught up the signal. The verdant hills and valleys that surrounded us were thickly dotted with cattle and sheep contentedly browsing upon the rich pasturage. Peeping over the densely wooded plantations, the tops of the little white-washed houses pointed out the locality of some well-known village. Clear streams of water sparkling in the glowing sunlight, often intersected the plains and valleys, or rushed headlong down the steep sides of some deep dell, abounding with wild flowers and myrtle bushes. Far below, were the distant fields in square patches of variegated hues, green bespangled with blue and crimson flowers j sometimes covered, like a sheet of pure gold, with countless buttercups, and sometimes hi uncultivated patches of sombre brown j but what I most dearly loved to gaze at was the broad blue sea in the distance, looking so pleasantly cool and calm, with here and there a patch of deeper blue, where the breeze sportively ruffled the waves. I always thought of Nabiy Tunas* and thegreat fish, and wondered if many such fish were yet taking their pastime in the deep. How little I imagined at that time that I was destined to traverse those mighty waters, and to suffer myself to be borne away on their waves hundreds of miles from shore, exposed to raging tempests in a fragile bark ! Such a notion would then have been scouted by all my friends ; and I myself should have been foremost in deriding the idea, and in opposing, that which has since proved conducive to my best interest s, temporal, and I trust eternal; but I was then a child, and understood and acted as a child.

From this pleasant spot, my uncle gazed with rapture upon the surrounding scenery, as the first rays of the sun peered above the snow-capped peaks of lofty Lebanon, and spread a golden mantle over the vast panorama; from my childhood, I have known how to appreciate the beauties of nature in all their poetry; and I admire them still, but with a milder and more subdued admiration.

" He sendeth the springs into the valleys, which run among the hills." This was a portion of a morning's reading lesson ; the force and beauty of the verse were illustrated by everything around me. My worthy preceptor would impress this fact upon my mind. The men, the cattle, the trees, shrubs, flowers, birds, butterflies, even the most insignificant insect that crawls upon the earth — all these are preserved, he argued, by the bounty and beneficence of the Creator — without this water how would nature subsist ? In short, the whole of that delightful Psalm seemed as though expressly composed to illustrate the country around us, especially

* The supposed tomb of the prophet Jonah is distinctly visible from this spot.

THE CEDAR OF LEBANON.

that passage which, says, "The Cedars of Lebanon, which he hath planted; where the birds make their nests."

Thus profitably and pleasantly the early hours of the day would be consumed. I was then dismissed with sage advice to remember throughout the day what I had read and heard— and my uncle being called away by his numerous avocations, I was left to amuse myself with my play-mates in the village until the hour of noon summoned us to our substantial mid- day meal. Like most boys, we were prone to mischief. I remember a favorite game amongst the village lads, which occasionally terminated in a squabble, and was known by the name of Al Cadi or The Judge. The Cadi was chosen by lot, as were the officers of his court, and the imaginary plaintiffs and defendants. Squatted on the ground under the pleasant shade of some mulberry-tree, we then held a court. Sentence was recorded and executed; and sometimes the boy who personated the imaginary criminal was sentenced to be bastinadoed. On these occasions the executioners laid about them so smartly with the light switches of the mulberry and olive, that though the boy's shoes were never removed the lash penetrated to the sole of the foot, and then the pretended culprit, smarting from pain, would lose all command over his temper; a melee would ensue, which outraged the dignity of the court, and usually terminated by all the members, the Cadi included, being summarily whipped for their naughtiness.

"When the hour of mid-day was announced by the striking of gongs, which in Syria are usually substituted for bells at the churches, all our family assembled for futar, and my uncle would enter, followed by the peasants employed about his plantations, together with his other b 5

LO servants. This was the signal for the cook and her assistant to carry into the centre of the yard a large iron cauldron containing the ruzz-mufaljal, or whatever was prepared for the day for the supply of the whole household. Clean shining platters were ranged in piles round this cauldron, and a blessing having been first asked, the food was ladled out — a goodly portion for each — enough and no waste. The only distinguishing mark at this family meal was, that the members of my uncle's family were all seated round a low circular table, and reclined upon carpets and against cushions. The others sat where their fancy dictated; but they chiefly crowded under that side of the court-yard wall which afforded a shade from the heat of the sun. In addition to the contents of the cauldron, there was generally a dish of stewed meat and vegetables; or, (if the season was Lent,) of the egg- vegetable, or batinjan, sliced and fried in oil — with as many cucumbers, pickles, lettuces, radishes, young onions, and chillies, as any one wished and asked for. During the repast, one of the servants usually stood at the door to watch for any poor wayfarers who might pass, to ask them to partake of our hospitality. When all had finished, the fragments were divided into equal portions amongst the cats and dogs of the establishment ; and what was left by them was given to the fowls and sparrows. Our evening meal differed but little from that of the morning, except on days when the national dish of Kubba * superseded everything else. Then we had Kubbas in soup made

* This favorite dish is something similar to forced-meat balls, being made of dried boiled wheat, finely-chopped suet and meat, pepper, salt, and red chillies. The whole is mashed into a paste, then squeezed by the hand into a globular shape, and afterwards either boiled or baked.

THE CEDAR OF LEBANON.

of laban or curdled milk, and Kubbas fried, and Kubbas baked; for the Syrian can never tire of eating of this delicious dish. The interval between mid-clay and the evening was occupied variously — but first came the indispensable siesta, indulged in by men, women, and children. The men would then return to their respective labours, while the women occupied themselves in household matters, and most of the children were sent to the village school; but for myself my afternoons were occupied with our family spiritual adviser, an excellent old man who came daily and instructed me at home, from the hours of two to four p.m. After supper, my uncle would sit in state and receive the visits of the neighbours who usually dropped in for an hour or two every evening. They sat and smoked, and talked about agricultural matters or village affairs; and sometimes one of the party would tell an amusing story, and another would sing a song — sweetmeats, coffee, and other refreshments being from time to time handed round — and thus the evenings would be spent in pleasant harmless enjoyment. This, with very little variety, is a faithful picture of what was our every- day life at Shuwei-fat : and so passed the years of my infancy.

I have omitted to make any personal allusion to the various members of my family. I hope, however, that I shall be pardoned in making a slight reference to my uncle's lovely daughters, nine in number ; these fair cousins of mine outrivalled each other in beauty and amiable qualities, and each had a trait of beauty peculiar to herself. In Syria, it is the custom to distinguish the various members of a family by a soubriquet, which has reference to some perfection or failing. Thus our groom, Yusuf, who limped a little, was called Topal or the lame ; and one of my cousins, Al Shams, or the sun,

THE THISTLE AXD owing to her very bright eyes ; whilst another, who had mild blue eyes, was designated "Al Kamar" or the moon. Al Kamar was so noted for her beauty and sweet disposition, that two of the princes of Lebanon sought her hand in marriage — and this, though they had never seen her; but Al Kama?" was not ambitious of honors and riches. The creed of the princes also differed widely from her own ; so she refused them both. All these nine daughters are now married and settled in life; so I take leave of them with a fervent prayer that the Almighty may graciously watch over them, and crown their end with eternal happiness.