Desultory reminiscences of a tour through Germany, Switzerland, and France

Front matter

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Book WW

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Preface

It is customary for an Author, ere he makes his debut in character, to offer sundry apologetic or conciliatory remarks, — both for the sake of veiling his imperfections, and (more especially) for the purpose of enlisting in his behalf the feelings of that dread arbiter who can bid him live, whatever his transgression, or, verso pollice, can put an instant end to his sufferings, by terminating at once his literary existence.

Although I shall attempt no formal apology for the infliction of these pages upon the public, yet I cannot forbear saying, in justice to myself, that, when the incidents v iii PREFACE.

that are sketched in this volume were actually occurring, no idea of even so much as committing them to paper crossed my

mind.

After an absence of more than two years, I returned to my native land. The many and interesting scenes I had passed through, of which, heretofore, in the ferment of constant and ever-varying action, the mind had taken, as it were, but hasty and unconscious cognizance, — now, surveyed through the clear glass of memory, — arranged themselves distinctly and in order before me.

At first I commenced a series of papers to furnish occupation for the else listless hour, and divert ennui, with perhaps an ulterior view toward furnishing a pleasant theme of reference for that after period, when the fresh hues of the events, therein recorded, should have faded from the tablet of the memory.

By these occasional contributions, my

PREFACE. IX

manuscript increased, in time, to a considerable size ; and I became at length infected with that prevalent disease, the cacoethes publicandi (if the critic will pardon me the expression), which might assail even the wisest. " A book 's a book," said the noble poet, " e'en though there 's nothing in it ; " and, in accordance with the sentiment, I resolved to publish. Void " the head and front of my offending."

The pages constituting this volume are submitted to the public eye, rather as the brief and " desultory reminiscences ' of a European tour, than as a circumstantial note-book history of travels. The sketches of Paris, which occupy a considerable portion of the volume, are the fruits of a long residence in that delightful Capital, and are as authentic, as abundant leisure to observe, and a disposition not unwilling to investigate, would allow me to obtain.

X PREFACE.

Having thus much premised, the Author makes his first bow, in a new character, and wishes thee, gentle reader, all health and prosperity.

Boston, June 7th, 1838.

Chapter I

Voyage. — Havre de Grace. — Rouen. — Arrival at Paris. — Palais Royal. — Theatres. — Italian Opera. — Julia Grisi. — The Parisian's Attachment to his City. — Promenades. — Courtesy to Strangers. — Description of the City. — Its Antiquities. — Art. — Parisian Manners and Character. — Schedule of a Day. — Gambling Houses. — Small Fortunes. ... . . 1

Chapter II

London. — St. Paul's Church. — Theatres. — King's Theatre. — Its aristocratic Character. — Passage down the Thames. — Voyage to Rotterdam. — Sensations of Foreigners. — Appearance of the Country. — Ride to Amsterdam. — Reflections on Travelling. — House occupied by Peter the Great. — Description of the City. — Amusements. — Character of the Inhabitants. — Dutch Paintings and Painters. — Excursion to Saardam and Broeck. . . . . • • • 1'

Xll CONTENTS.

Chapter III

Utrecht. — Osnabruck. — Arrest for Cigar-smoking. — Bremen. — Extensive Wine Cellar. — Brunswick. — Antiquity of its Architecture. — Its Environs. — Vault of the Brunswick Family. — The new Ducal Palace. — Hanover. — Objects of Interest. — Government. — Magdeburg. — Berlin. — The Palace. — The Royal Museum and Arsenal. — Linden Street. — Public Amusements. — Theatres. — The Royal Family. — The late Queen Louisa. — Potsdam. — The Palaces. — Study of Frederic the Great. — The New Palace. — Military Exercises. — Sans Souci. — Frederic the Great 28

Chapter IV

Reflections on Travel. — Environs of Leipsic. — The Battle-Ground. — Monument to Poniatowski. — Absence of Public Amusements. — Dresden. — The Gallery of Paintings. — The Madonna of Raffaelle. — Paintings of Correggio. — Jewel Office or Treasury. — Dresden Porcelain. — General Moreau. — The Environs of Dresden. — Style of Architecture. — The King and Royal Family. — Moral Condition of Society. . 44

Chapter V

Journey to Prague. — The Black Horse. — Objects of Interest in Prague. — Battle of Prague. — The Bridge. — Islands and Rifle Shooting. — German Life. — Ger-

CONTENTS. Xlll

man and American Theatres. — German Troops. — Austria Proper and its Army 58

Chapter VI

Journey to Vienna. — The Archduke Charles Hotel. — Imperial Library. — Public Rooms. — Church of St. Stephen's. — The Hearts of the Imperial Family. — Palaces. — Maria Theresa. — Schoenbrunn. — Arsenal at Vienna. — Promenades. — National Traits of Character. — Music. — Strauss. — Baden. — The Archduke Charles. — Presburg. — The Virtue of Primitive Simplicity. — Pesth. — The Hungarians. — Scene at the Jager-Horn. — Wagon Ride to Vienna. . . .66

Chapter VII

Identification of Austria and Vienna. — The Opera. — Cheapness of Public Amusements. — Morality of Vienna. — Lintz. — Saltzburg. — The Citadel. — Salt Works of Hallein. — Descent into them. — Cretins. — Remarks on Saltzburg. — Gardens and Statues. — Munich. — The Queen Mother of Naples. — Amusements for her. — The Duchess de Berri. — Remarks on Munich. — Statues and Paintings of Prince Eugene Beauharnois. — Canova. — Churches. — Palaces. — The Theatre. — Der Freischutz. — The English Garden. . 83

Chapter VIII

Journey to Frankfort. — Observations on the City. — Visit to the Opera. — The Bridge. — Gardens. —

XIV CONTENTS.

Wiesbaden. — Johannisberg. — Chateau of Prince Metternich. — The Grape and Wines. — Bingen. — Journey to Coblentz. — Baronial Castle. — Ehrenbreitstein. — Jealousy of the Prussian Government illustrated. — Military Guides and Arrangement. — Passage down the Rhine. — Account of the Boatman.

— Nonnenworth. — A Castle and its Legend. — Drachenfels. — Bonn. — The University. — Cabinet of Natural Curiosities. — Cologne. — The Cathedral.

— Tomb of the Three Kings of Cologne. — The Crucifixion of St. Peter by Rubens. . . . .97

Chapter IX

Journey to Mayence. — The Cathedral. — Manheim. — Heidelberg. — Castle built by Charlemagne. — View of the City. — Viewing natural Scenery at Sunset. — Companion from Holland. — Carlsruhe. — Baden. — The Castle. — Prospect from it An English Lady.

— Beauty. — Strasburg. — The Cathedral. — View from it. — German Character of the City. — Remarks

on Travelling. — Colmar. . . . . . 116

Chapter X

Basle. — The Drei Konige von Coin. — Disappointed Travellers. — Remarks on Basle. — Fellow Travellers to Berne. — Stop of the Diligence at Midnight. — Remark of Diderot. — Scenery near Berne. — Promenade. — Lausanne. — Rousseau. — His Conception of Julie. — Lake of Geneva. — Gibbon. — Description and Account of Lausanne 131

CONTENTS. XV

Chapter XI

Steamboat Passage to Geneva. — Jerome Bonaparte. — Arrival at Geneva. — Scenery. — Excursion towards Mont Blanc. — Scenery on the Way. — Vale of Chamouni. — Ascent of Montanvert. — Mer de Glace. — De Saussure. — Further Remarks on Chamouni. — Return to Geneva. — Remarkable Grotto. . . 147

Chapter XII

Voltaire's Seat at Ferney. — His Death. — The old Gardener at Ferney. — Voltaire's Character and Skepticism. — His Intimacy with Frederic the Great. — Coppet. — Madame de Stael. — Present Condition and Resources of Geneva. — Its Picturesqueness. — Lake Leman. — The Genevois. — Present Condition of the Swiss and Switzerland. . . . . . .161