My Canadian journal, 1872-'78

Front matter

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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.

Preface

Encouraged by the kind reception given to my Indian Journal, I have ventured to prepare this earlier one for publication ; though I am well aware that the subject is less new, and that Canada, and the life a Governor- General leads there, are much better knov/n, and offer less novelty to most readers, than did a similar record of the Viceroy's social life in India.

Both Journals were sent in the same v/ay, as weekly letters to my mother, and the only difference between the tvvo is this — that whereas the one was published directly I returned from India, the first pages of my Canadian diary were v/ritten nearly twenty years ago, and it is more than twelve since the book was closed.

PREFACE.

Encouraged by the kind reception given to my Indian Journal, I have ventured to prepare this earlier one for publication ; though I am well aware that the subject is less new, and that Canada, and the life a Governor- General leads there, are much better knov/n, and offer less novelty to most readers, than did a similar record of the Viceroy's social life in India.

Both Journals were sent in the same v/ay, as weekly letters to my mother, and the only difference between the tvvo is this — that whereas the one was published directly I returned from India, the first pages of my Canadian diary were v/ritten nearly twenty years ago, and it is more than twelve since the book was closed.

vi PREFACE.

In a prosperous and quick-growing country like Canada, every year makes a difference, and I know, both from hearsay and from pictures I have seen, that places I mention as villages have become towns ; that a new railway traverses the Northwest, with cities springing up everywhere in its wake ; that Ottawa itself has quite outgrown my memories of it ; that the contemplated improvements, designed to keep Quebec the most beautiful city in the world, have been accomplished; and that in almost every part of the Dominion the hand of progress has been busy, building, adding to, and improving.

My little Journal, therefore, is rather a record of the past than a description of the present ; and this I sadly feel, as I find in it the names of many who have passed away, some leaving never-to-be-filled blanks in their own homes, others mourned by a whole nation.

Nothing has oppressed me more in the revision of this Journal than the sense that, from the necessity of shortening it as much as possible, I have done scant justice to the kindness of many friends, and that some of those of whom we saw the most, and who added so materially to the happiness of our daily life in Canada, are scarcely mentioned in it. The Prime Ministers, for instance, who, with their wives, were constantly associated with all we did, are only occasionally mentioned, though the warm affection we felt for Sir John and Lady Macdonald, and for Mr. and Mrs. MacKenzie, are among the pleasantest recollections of our Canadian life.

And the same may be said of their colleagues, and of

PREFACE. vii

many others, who, if they read these pages, will, I hope, remember that they relate but a quarter of the events and the pleasures of the years we spent in Canada, and give but a few of the names of those with whom we made enduring friendships, and with whom we worked and played and enjoyed our life in the Dominion.

I have also been sorry to pass so very lightly over the cordiality and the friendliness invariably shown us whenever we crossed our borders into the United States; for whether we were traveling officially through Chicago or Detroit, or went as ordinary visitors to New York or Boston, we were always received with a kindness and a hospitality which we can never forget.

I must also say one word as to the silence on all political matters maintained in this Journal. I have not attempted to record in it any part of the business of the Governor-General ; and it is only as they affected our movements, or our social arrangements, that I have, even distantly, alluded to public events, and then, I fear, in a somewhat light and irresponsible spirit.

The Governor-General and his wife belong to no party; and we met with such universal kindness from all persons with whom we came in contact in the Dominion, that I, at least, never wanted to remember that people differed from each other in their political views, and was only too glad to leave politics to those whom they necessarily concerned.

Hariot Dufferin and Ava.

Clandeboye, August i8, 1891.

VI

PREFACE.

In a prosperous and quick-growing country like Canada, every year makes a difference, and I know, both from hearsay and from pictures I have seen, that places I mention as villages have become towns ; that a new railway traverses the Northwest, with cities springing up everywhere in its wake ; that Ottawa itself has quite outgrown my memories of it ; that the contemplated improvements, designed to keep Quebec the most beautiful city in the world, have been accomplished ; and that in almost every part of the Dominion the hand of progress has been busy, building, adding to, and improving.

My little Journal, therefore, is rather a record of the past than a description of the present ; and this I sadly feel, as I find in it the names of many who have passed away, some leaving never-to-be-filled blanks in their own homes, others mourned by a whole nation.

Nothing has oppressed me more in the revision of this Journal than the sense that, from the necessity of shortening it as much as possible, I have done scant justice to the kindness of many friends, and that some of those of whom we saw the most, and who added so materially to the happiness of our daily life in Canada, are scarcely mentioned in it. The Prime Ministers, for instance, who, with their wives, were constantly associated with all we did, are only occasionally mentioned, though the warm affection we felt for Sir John and Lady Macdonald, and for Mr. and Mrs. MacKenzie, are among the pleasantest recollections of our Canadian life.

And the same may be said of their colleagues, and of

PREFACE. vii

many others, who, if they read these pages, will, I hope, remember that they relate but a quarter of the events and the pleasures of the years we spent in Canada, and give but a few of the names of those with whom we made enduring friendships, and with whom we worked and played and enjoyed our life in the Dominion.

1 have also been sorry to pass so very lightly over the cordiality and the friendliness invariably shown us whenever we crossed our borders into the United States; for whether we were traveling officially through Chicago or Detroit, or went as ordinary visitors to New York or Boston, we were always received with a kindness and a hospitality which we can never forget.

I must also say one word as to the silence on all political matters maintained in this Journal. I have not attempted to record in it any part of the business of the Governor-General ; and it is only as they affected our movements, or our social arrangements, that I have, even distantly, alluded to public events, and then, I fear, in a somewhat light and irresponsible spirit.

The Governor-General and his wife belong to no party ; and we met with such universal kindness from all persons with whom we came in contact in the Dominion, that I, at least, never wanted to remember that people differed from each other in their political views, and was only too glad to leave politics to those whom they necessarily concerned.

Hariot Dufferin and Ava.

Clandeboye, August 1 8, 1891.

Chapter I. Arrival In Canada

June-August, 1872. p^^^

The Voyage — Reception at Quebec — River steamers on the St. Lawrence — Arrival at Ottawa — Rideau Hall — Household arrangements — Chaudiere Fall — The Lachine Rapids — Quebec — Privileges of the Kings of France — Montmorency Falls — Riviere du Loup — The Dauntless — Cacouna — Tadousac — The Saguenay^Trout-fishing — My first entertainment in Canada — An early church — Canoeing and camping on the Marguerite River — Our first Canadian salmon I

CHAPTER n.

QUEBEC.

August-September, 1872.

The Citadel — Setting up house — Our first dinner party — A picnic — "Mr. Briggs" — Social duties — The Ursuline Convent — Canadian songs — The local institutions — Receptions at the Convents — Ball given by Lady Belleau — Universite Laval — The Stadacona Hunt — Ball at the Citadel — Departure from Quebec 20

CHAPTER HL

ONTARIO.

September-October, 1872.

Toronto — Hamilton — Grand reception at Toronto — Niagara — The Falls — Buffalo — Drawing - room at Toronto — Woodstock —

X CONTENTS.

PAGE

London — Petrolia — Schools at Toronto — The York Pioneers — "Not at home" — Ball in the Parliament Buildings — Sunday schools — The children arrive from England . . -37

CHAPTER IV.

OTTAWA.

November, 1872-jANUARY, 1873.

Ottawa — Rideau Hall — Thanksgiving Day — The first direct telegram from Australia — Winter costumes — Tobogganing — His Excellency's visit to Montreal — Daily routine — Snow-shoeing — Canadian celebrities — Frost-bites — Making a Rink — 22° below zero — Skating — Sleighing — New Year's Day . . 48

CHAPTER V.

MONTREAL.

January-February, 1873.

Montreal — Quebec — Citizens' ball — Drawing-room at Montreal — Torch-light procession on snow-shoes — The Rink — The Mc- Gill College — Ball — R. C. Deaf and Dumb Institutions — Fancy dress ball at the Rink — Winter games — Ladies' skating matches 59

CHAPTER VL

OUR FIRST PARLIAMENTARY SESSION.

February-May, 1873.

Arrangements for the season at Ottawa — Cabinet dinner — Opening of Parliament — The Drawing-room — Theatricals — Parliamentary dinners — Ball at Rideau Hall — Prince Edward's Island joins the Dominion — Birth of a daughter . . -71

CHAPTER VII.

ON THE ST. LAWRENCE.

June-July, 1873.

Sir George Carticr— Quebec — Christening of the Queen's godchild — Viceregal functions — The Dfiiid — Tadousac — The Godbout

CONTENTS. xi

PAGE

River — The Mingan — Indians in chapel — One of our men drowned — Fishing — A day at sea — Gaspe — Tete-a-tite drives — Camping out on the Dartmouth River — On the St. John — Not enough blankets ! — A strange coincidence — Perce — Curing fish — Paspediac — Dalhousie — Chatham— Newcastle . 83

CHAPTER VIII.

THE MARITIME PROVINCES.

July-August, 1873.

Prince Edward's Island — Charlotte Town — Ball in the Senate Chamber — Pictou coal mines — Louisburg — Sydney — Fog — Landing at Halifax, N. S. — Dinner at Government House — Party feeling — McNab's Island — Lobster-spearing — Lord Dufferin's speech at the Club — Ball in the Parliament Buildings — Ball on H. M. %. Royal Alfred — Industrial homes — Bay of Fundy — St. John, N. B. — Hotel life — Torch-light procession — Ball in the theatre — Voyage up the St. John River — Fredericton — Woodstock — Grand Falls — Tadousac . . loi

CHAPTER IX.

THE FALL.

September-December, 1873.

Bathing at Tadousac — Quebec — Miss Florence Lees — Football — Convents — Paper chase — Visitors — The Stadacona Races — Ball at the Citadel — Montreal — Ottawa — Debate on the address — Resignation of Sir John Macdonald's cabinet — Curling — Mr. Mackenzie, the new Premier — Christmas . . 123

CHAPTER X.

OUR SECOND SEASON AT OTTAWA.

January-June, 1874.

The New Year's reception — Tableaux — Only 10° of frost ! — The institutions of Ottawa — An ice storm — Concert — Montreal — xii CONTENTS.

PAGE

Fancy dress ball in the Rink — -Ottawa — Curling match — A winter's drive — Caves — Electrical experiments — Opening of Parliament — Charles Kingsley — Laurence Oliphant — Citizens' ball in the Senate Chamber — Lumber mills — The Queen's Birthday — Excursions 137

CHAPTER XL

FISHING ON THE ST. LAWRENCE.

June-July, 1874.

Quebec — Gaspe — Mr. Reynolds's camp on the York River — Our camp on the St. John River — Dominion Day — " The Countess's Pool " — A fog — Tadousac — Up the Saguenay — Chicoutimi — An Indian passenger — Murray Bay — The St. Anne Falls — Our cook's family 156

CHAPTER XH.

ONTARIO AND THE LAKES.

July-September, 1874.

Trois Rivieres — Toronto — Rival hotels — Newmarket — Barrie — Lake Simcoe — The Narrows — Orillia — Ojibbeway Indians — Muskoka Lake — Bracebridge — Summit House — Settlers — Parry Sound — Collingwood — Owen Sound — Manitoulin Indians — Sault Ste. Marie — Michipicoten — Nipigon — A portage — Camping out — Lake Superior— Silver Islet — Prince Arthur's Landing — Indians at Shebandowan — Kamanistiqwa River — Lake Michigan — Chicago — The park — The Palmer House — Reception at the Exchange — The boulevards — The shops — Detroit — Sarnia — Lake Huron — Goderich — Salt works — Stratford — Guelph — Miss Macpherson's Home— Brantford— The Six Nations — Mr. George Brown's farm — Woodstock — London — Fire at Simcoe — St. Catherine's — Swing bridge over the Niagara River — The Falls — Mr. Plumb's house — Toronto — Lord Dufferin's speech at the club — Whitby — Port Hope— Coburg — Iron mine — Belleville — Dr. Palmer's Deaf and Dumb Institution — Kingston — Brockville — Home again at Ottawa 170

CONTENTS, xiii

CHAPTER XIII.

WINTER AND SPRING.

The Dominion Rifle Match — New York — The theatres and parks — Entertainments — Drive to ** Sleepy Hollow" — Lord Dufferin goes to Washington — The Normal School — Night journey to Boston — Longfellow's house— Club dinner — A Universalist Church — Return to Ottawa — The steeple chase — Visitors — An ideal Christmas Day — Children's tableaux — Lord Dufferin's visit to Montreal — Curling — Debate on Riel — Birth and Christening of a son — Home on short leave — Delayed by ice and fog 217

CHAPTER XIV.

AN UNEVENTFUL SEASON.

October, 1875-JuLY, 1876, R. M. S. Prussian — Ottawa — Skating — A rainy Christmas Day — — Plays — Married vs. Bachelors — Montreal — Ottawa — Opening of Parliament — Fancy dress balls — Theatricals — Ice block on the Rideau — Expedition up the Le Lievre — Quebec — After the fire — Lord Dufferin's speech — Procession of Jean Baptiste — Gaspe — Fishing on the York River — Archie's birthday — His departure for school — Ottawa — Preparations for the Grand Tour 235

CHAPTER XV.

ACROSS THE CONTINENT AND ALONG THE PACIFIC COAST.

August-September, 1876.

Our special train — A reporter and his request — Five o'clock tea —Chicago— Omaha— The Platte Valley— The Rocky Plains — Cheyenne — The Alkali Plains — The Rocky Mountains — Ogden — Cape Horn — Traveling with a murderer — San Francisco—The Cliff House— A Killyleagh friend— H. M. S. Amethyst — The Pacific — Esquimault — ^Victoria — Party feeling — Busy days — Our Chinese cook and his wife — Regatta — Nanaimo — Bute Inlet — Safety Harbor — Metlacatlah — Successxiv CONTENTS.

PAGE

ful missionary efforts — Fort Simpson — Indian monuments — Queen Charlotte's Islands — Alert Bay — Burrard's Inlet — A heavy mail 257

CHAPTER XVI.

BRITISH COLUMBIA, CALIFORNIA, AND SALT LAKE CITY.

September-October, 1876.

A forest giant — New Westminster — A speech in many tongues — The Fraser River — Yale — Hell's Gate — An Indian escort — Lytton — Indian grave — Mr. Cornwall's — Kamloops — A " Pow- Wow" — Down the Thompson River — Perilous drive — Victoria — Strange servants — Ball — Esquimault — Dry dock — A busy day — At sea — San Francisco — Good-by to H. M. S. Amethyst — A 'Frisco merchant's country house — A Califomian ball — Giving names — The Chinese theatre — Joss House — The return journey — Salt Lake City — Mormon society — Cheyenne — Denver — Hotel manners— Oregon Bill — St. Louis — Toronto, 2<^j'i

CHAPTER XVII.

OUR FIFTH WINTER AND SUMMER IN CANADA.

Toronto— Lord Dufferin starts for Philadelphia— Montreal— Ottawa— Tom Thumb— Sermon before the service— Christmas festivities — Toronto— Speeches— Ottawa — Theatricals — Presentation by the cabmen — Procession in honor of Pope Leo XIII —Distinguished visitors— Quebec— In camp— Fishing— Tadousac 324

CHAPTER XVIII.

THE NORTH-WEST.

August, 1877.

In the cars — St. Paul — Minneapolis — Minnehaha Falls — Across

the prairie— The Red River — Greetings on the way — The

Frontier — Fort Garry — Winnipeg — " Silver Heights " — An

Indian's idea of religion — St. Boniface — The Hudson's Bay

CONTENTS. XV

PAGE

store — Lassoing — Sioux Indians — Ball at Winnipeg — A Red River cart — The Rockwood Penitentiary — St. Andrew's — Little Stone Fort — Selkirk — The Indian reserve — Winnipeg — Camping out — Mennonite settlement — A member of the local Parliament 338

CHAPTER XIX.

MANITOBA.

August-October, 1877.

Insect life on the prairie — Half-breeds — St. Andrevs^'s — Pitching camp — On the Dawson route — A " corduroy " road — The North-West Angle — Lake of the Woods — Canoeing on the Winnipeg River — The White Dog Mission — Portages — Rapids — Fort Alexander — An Indian grave — Lake Winnipeg — S. S. Colville — The Saskatchewan — The first railway in the North-West — Flour ;i^5 a bag ! — Stone Fort — Gimla, the Icelandic settlement — Winnipeg — An Indian " Lodge " — Lake Manitoba — Duck-shooting — Portage La Prairie — Productive land — Want of good drinking-water — Silver Heights — The Canadian Pacific Railway — Farewell dejeuner and speeches at Winnipeg — A happy family — The Military College, Kingston — Back to Ottawa 366

CHAPTER XX.

OUR LAST SEASON AT OTTAWA AND MONTREAL.

Earthquake — Christmas visitors — Bad accident — Tobogganing — —Visit to Montreal— The Windsor Hotel— The McKay Institution — Villa Maria Convent— Ball — McGill College — Military display at the theatre — Convent of the Sacred Heart — Mount Royal Park — Farewell dinner — The Art Association Conversazione — Sickness at Ottawa — Death of Mr. Ward — "Sweethearts" — A musical afternoon with the House of Commons — Farewell address from both Houses of Parliament — Fancy bazaar — The Phonograph — The General Hospital, Montreal — The Queen's Birthday Review — Good-by at Ottawa — The children leave for England .... 399 xvi CONTENTS,

CHAPTER XXI.

THE EASTERN TOWNSHIPS, AND LAST DAYS IN CANADA.

Tune-August, 1878.

PAGE

Gaspe — "Tinker" — Riots at Quebec — Our rooms occupied by soldiers — Island of Orleans — Farewell address from the Quebec Parliament — Visit to Boston — A New England home — A literary dinner party — Lord Dufferin takes his degree at the Harvard University — I ongfellow — Mr. Adams — Quebec — A fog on the St. Lawrence — Fishing on the Metapediac — Run to Campbell Town — Rimouski — Bic — Fishing — Last visit to Tadousac — The 12th of July — The Maine Press Association — Sillery — The Roman Catholic bishops — Sir Edward Thornton's visit — Theatricals on the Island of Orleans — The Montmorency Falls — Expedition to the Chaudiere Falls — Danville — Sherbrooke — Lennoxville — Lake Massiwippi — Compton — Stanstead — Lake Memphremagog — Magog — Bolton — Waterloo — Granby — St. John's — Lake Champlain — Lake George — Juvenile coachman at Fort Henry — Good-by .... 419

Lord Dufferin's Last Days in Canada .... 450

Index 453

ILLUSTRATIONS.

v^ Lord Dufferin, Governor - General of Canada,

i872-'78 frontispiece ^

{From a photograph taken at the time in Canada.)

^ Indian Tents /. v

v^OuR House and the Hotel, Tadousac . . . to face p. 94__.

v' Gaspe " 157—

N/ Our Hut (on the St. John River) . . . . /?. 162 "

- The Mouth of the Red River and Lake Winnipeg to face p. 2^2 '

-■ Rat Portage /. 376

X Indian Grave at Fort Alexander .... /. 380

N La Roche Percee to face p. 392 "^

■^ Lady Dufferin " 423

{Frotn a sketch by Lord D2ifferin,~)

\ MAP at end

MY CANADIAN JOURNAL.

1872-1878.

CHAPTER I.

ARRIVAL IN CANADA.

S. S. '■'■Prussian''' : Friday^ June 14, 1 81 2. — Ugh! Ugh ! horrid ! Very rough ; everybody ill except the wretched baby, Basil, who is perfectly well, but can get no one to dress him, and is handed about, unwashed, to engineers, waiters, to any one who can stand.

Monday^ lyth. — The ship rolling from side to side till one's back aches. Such a noise of splashing and dashing and falling about, and such fears lest my infants should follow the example of my toothbrush, and come flying across the room ! To add to my fears, two steerage passengers came to D. in the night, to inquire whether he thought there was any danger, and if the captain might not be asked to put into port until it became calmer. In the morning these men were found sleeping with life-belts on.

Wednesday, igth. — We are much better now, and quite enjoy our meals, which D. and I have in a cabin by ourselves.

We are also able to look about, and find that there are 107 " street Arabs" on board, brought out by a saint

2 MY CANADIAN JOURNAL. ch. i

of a woman, who, although very sick and miserable herself, sings to them, reads out loud, goes down into the steerage, sees them to bed, and performs many other trying offices in the most unselfish manner. Miss Macpherson pays her own passage and expenses. Each child costs ;£"io to bring out, and will eventually be adopted into a Canadian family, where it will have a happy home. This seems to be an excellent charity.

Sunday^ 2jd. — A beautiful day — a hot sun and a perfectly calm sea. Our parasols and shady hats have come out for the first time, and Hermie and Basil* are being made very much of by the convalescent passengers. Preparations are making for our arrival at Quebec ; and, as it has been discovered that there is no Canadian flag on board, my maid, Mrs. Dent, is busily engaged in trying to manufacture one. Nobody is quite sure what it is, but all suppose that there must be a beaver and a maple-leaf in it. I sincerely hope that no great herald will be waiting to receive us.

We have attended a meeting in the steerage, where some of the Canadian passengers talked to the emigrants about the country they are going to. D. also spoke, and told them that in Canada they need never complain, as he had heard one of them do, " that he had too many children," for that there the more they had the better. An enthusiastic young man on hearing this slapped D. on the back and said, "That is just what I have been telling Emily."

Quebec : Tuesday, 2^th. — A lovely morning. We anchored early, but did not land till ten, when the Ministers, Lieutenant-Governor, and several other officials, came on board, and with them we went ashore. A salute was fired from the citadel as D. stepped on land, and we

* My youngest children.

JUNE 1872 ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC AND OTTAWA. ^

walked through lines of troops to a carriage-and-four, in which we drove to Spencer Wood, the Lieutenant-Governor's residence. We passed through Quebec, up a very steep hill. The road was rough, and it was extremely hot and dusty. I could not see the view as we were driving away from the river, and also, I was much occupied in looking at the people who filled the streets ; but when we got to Spencer Wood we were charmed with it, and it looks right down upon the St. Lawrence. At three o'clock D. was sworn in as Governor-General of Canada, and received some addresses of welcome, — but, as I remained quiet in my country retreat, I can tell you nothing of the ceremony. Our host is Sir Narcisse Belleau ; his wife is a nice quiet little Frenchwoman, and he is pleasant and kind. There was a dinner in the evening, — but I don't feel that I have seen enough of any of the guests to tell you about them to-day, except that the Prime Minister, Sir John Macdonald, is the image of Dizzy.

Wednesday, 26th. — The papers give a most amusing description of D., stating his apparent weight and height. I am very flatteringly described, though the ignorant male writer speaks slightingly of my dress as being a " plain blue silk," whereas it was in reality excessively smart, and had caused me infinite trouble and anxiety ! However, I had the satisfaction of hearing from Lady Harriet Fletcher * that the ladies knew better, and had appreciated it.

Lady Harriet and I had a drive about the old town, and I was quite delighted with it. The views are perfectly lovely, and it would be such a charming place to live in, — if only we had a house here !

* Daughter of the Earl of Romney, wife of Lord Dufferin's Military Secretary.

4 MV CANADIAN JOURNAL, CH. I

In the afternoon we started for Ottawa in a magnificent river-steamer with four stories and streets of cabins, and a grand table ahote on board. We sat on deck and enjoyed ourselves immensely as we went up the St. Lawrence. I can not tell you what a lovely voyage this was! — so lovely that I can not believe that we did it of necessity, and not for pleasure only.

Thursday, 2ith. — We arrived at Ottawa, the first view of which is magnificent ; but once landed there was no time to look at anything ! There were nine addresses to be listened to, and after them we drove off to our new home! . . . We have been so very enthusiastic about everything hitherto that the first sight of Rideau Hall did lower our spirits just a little ! The road to it is rough and ugly, the house appears to me to be at the land's end, and there is no view whatever from it, though it is near the river — and we have come through hundreds of miles of splendid scenery to get to it ! Then I have never lived in a Government House before, and the inevitable bare tables and ornamentless rooms have a depressing effect : for the first time I realize that I have left my own home for many years, — and this is its substitute !

Friday, 28th. — Please forget the above growl. The morning has brought more cheerful reflections. We are not intended to live here at midsummer, and I dare say that in winter this place looks lovely ! Our house is, they say, very warm and comfortable, and the Houses of Parliament — which, after all, I do see from my windows — are very beautiful. And I can cover up the tables and supply the homey look which at present is wanting — so why did I grumble ? We have driven in state through the town, and have visited the Government buildings. I was delighted with the Senate, and with the Library — a large, circular room. When the

JULY i£72 HOUSEHOLD ARRANGEMENTS. 5

House is sitting I may come and listen to debates, but the Governor-General may not !

The weather is extremely hot, and we are not going to remain here. D. goes to-morrow to inspect militia at Prescott, and I meet him there two days later.

Monday^ July ist. — We went for a row on the river in the evening, which was delicious. It was very pretty ; and we had a breath of fresh air, and got out of a perspiration for the first time for a week !

We have been busy making a number of household arrangements. I have chosen my nurseries ; and it has been decided to add a story to the little house in the garden in which the Fletchers will live, — for they have a number of children too. The non-arrival of all our heavy luggage has been an anxiety ; so far our viceregal establishment possesses about six plates and as many cracked teacups ; and our own supply of china, plate, and linen seems to be trying to see the country, and to travel for pleasure, instead of coming and settling down here as it should.

Perhaps you may wonder where my children are all this time. The three elder ones are still in Europe, trying to learn a little French, and Hermione and Basil, who came out with us, are now at Riviere du Loup, where we have taken a house for the summer. There, also, are the Fletcher children. Colonel * and Lady Harriet Fletcher came out to Canada the mail before we did, and made all arrangements for us and for themselves. He is the Military Secretary. We have two very nice A. D. C.s at present. One of them was with Lord Lisgar, and has kindly volunteered to stay and help us for a time. The other is Mr. Coulson, who is regularly appointed, and who will remain even after