My Canadian Journal 1872-8 ... With illustrations ... portraits and map

Front matter

MY CANADIAN JOURNAL 1872-8 PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE LONDON GOVERNOR-GENERAL OF CANADA, 1872-78 From a Photograph taken at the time in Canada [frontispiece TO MY CANADIAN FRIENDS THIS LITTLE BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED H. D. & A. PKEFACE Encouraged by the kind reception given to my Indian Journal, I have ventured to prepare this earlier one for publication ; though I am well aware that the subject is less new, and that Canada, and the life a Governor-General leads there, are much better known, and offer less novelty to most readers, than did a similar record of the Viceroy's social life in India. Both Journals were sent in the same way, as weekly letters to my mother, and the only difference between the two is this — that whereas the one was published directly I returned from India, the first pages of my Canadian diary were written nearly twenty years ago, and it is more than twelve since the book was closed.

In a prosperous and quick-growing country like Canada, MY CANADIAN JOURNAL every year makes a difference: and I know, both from hearsay and from pictures I have seen, that places I mention as villages have become towns ; that a new railway traverses the North West, with cities springing up everywhere in its wake ; that Ottawa itself has quite outgrown my memories of it ; that the contemplated im provements, designed to keep Quebec the most beautiful city in the world, have been accomplished ; and that in almost every part of the Dominion the hand of progress has been busy, building, adding to, and improving. My little Journal, therefore, is rather a record of the past than a description of the present ; and this I sadly feel, as I find in it the names of many who have passed away, some leaving never-to-be-filled blanks in their own homes, others mourned by a whole nation.

Nothing has oppressed me more in the revision of this Journal than the sense that, from the necessity of shorten ing it as much as possible, I have done scant justice to the kindness of many friends, and that some of those of whom we saw the most, and who added so materially to the happiness of our daily life in Canada, are scarcely men tioned in it. The Prime Ministers, for instance, who, with their wives, were constantly associated with all we did, are only occasionally mentioned, though the warm affection we felt for Sir John and Lady Macdonald, and for Mr. and Mrs. Mackenzie, are amongst the pleasantest recollec tions of our Canadian life. And the same may be said of their colleagues, and of many others, who, if they read these pages, will, I hope, remember that they relate but a quarter of the events and the pleasures of the years we spent in Canada, and give but a few of the names of those with whom we made

Preface

7 enduring friendships, and with whom we worked and played and enjoyed our life in the Dominion. I have also been sorry to pass so very lightly over the cordiality and the friendliness invariably shown us whenever we crossed our borders into the United States ; for whether we were travelling officially through Chicago or Detroit, or went as ordinary visitors to New York or Boston, we were always received with a kindness and a hospitality which we can never forget. I must also say one word as to the silence on all political matters maintained in this Journal. I have not attempted to record in it any part of the business of the Governor- General ; and it is only as they affected our movements, or our social arrangements, that I have, even distantly, alluded to public events, and then, I fear, in a somewhat light and irresponsible spirit.

The Governor-General and his wife belong to no party ; and we met with such universal kindness from all persons with whom we came in contact in the Dominion, that I, at least, never wanted to remember that people differed from each other in their political views, and was only too glad to leave politics to those whom they necessarily concerned. Hariot Dufferin and Ava, Clandeboye : August 18, 1891. TAGli CONTENTS

Chapter I Arrival In Canada

June-August 1872 The Voyage — Reception at Quebec — River steamers on the St. Lawrence—Arrival at Ottawa— Rideau Hall — Household arrangements — Chaudiere Fall — The Lachine Rapids — Quebec — Privileges of the Kings of France — Montmorency Falls — Riviere du Loup — The Dauntless — Cacouna — Tadousac — The Saguenay — Troutfishing — My first entertainment in Canada — An early church — Canoeing and camping on the Marguerite River — Our first Canadian salmon 1

Chapter II Quebec

August-Septembtsr 1872 The Citadel — Setting-up house — Our first dinner party — A picnic — 'Mr. Briggs ' — Social duties — The Ursuline Convent — Canadian songs — The local institutions — Receptions at the Convents — Ball given by Lady Belleau — Universite Laval — The Stadacona Hunt — Ball at the Citadel— Departure from Quebec .... PAGE 54

Chapter III Ontario

September-October 1872 Toronto — Hamilton— Grand reception at Toronto— Niagara— The Falls— Buffalo— Drawing-room at Toronto— Woodstock— London — Petrolia— Schools at Toronto— The York Pioneers — ' Not at home '—Ball in the Parliament Buildings— Sunday schools— The children arrive from England 34

Chapter IV Ottawa

November 1872-January 1873 Ottawa— Rideau Hall— Thanksgiving Day— The first direct telegram from Australia — Winter costumes — Tobogganing — His Excellency's visit to Montreal — Daily routine — Snow-shoeing — Canadian celebrities — Frost-bites — Making a rink — 22° below zero — Skating — Sleighing — New Year's Day 44

Chapter V Montreal

January-February 1873 Montreal — Quebec — Citizens' ball — Drawing-room at Montreal — Torch-light procession on snow-shoes — The Rink — The M'Gill College — Ball — R.C. Deaf and Dumb Institutions — Fancy dress ball at the rink — Winter games — Ladies' skating matches .

Chapter VI Our First Parliamentary Session

February-May 1873 Arrangements for the season at Ottawa — Cabinet dinner— Opening of Parliament — The Drawing-room — Theatricals — Parliamentary dinners — Ball at Rideau Hall — Prince Edward's Island joins the Dominion — Birth of a daughter 1872-8 EXTRACTS FROM MY LETTERS HOME written wbttle LORD DUFFERIN WAS GOVERNOR-GENERAL ,1 n U BY THE MARCHIONESS OF DTJFFEEIN & AVA AUTHOR OF 'OUR VICE-UEGAL LIFE IN INDIA' WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM SKETCHES BY LORD DUFFERIN PORTRAITS AND MAP LONDON JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET CONTENTS 13 PAGE

Chapter VII On The St

LAWRENCE June-July 1873 Sir George Cartier — Quebec — Christening of the Queen's godchild — Viceregal functions — The Druid — Tadousao — The Godbout River — The Mingan — Indians in chapel — One of our men drowned — Fishing — A day at sea — Gasp6 — TSte-d-Ute drives — Camping out on the Dartmouth River — On the St. John — Not enough blankets ! — A strange coincidence — Perce — Curing fish — Paspediac — Dalhousie — Chatham — Newcastle 76

Chapter VIII The Maritime Provinces

July-August 1873 Prince Edward's Island — Charlotte Town — Ball in the Senate Chamber -Piotou coal mines — Louisburg — Sydney — Fog — Landing at Halifax, N.S. — Dinner at Government House — Party feeling — McNab's Island — Lobster-spearing — Lord Dufferin's speech at the Club — Ball in the Parliament Buildings — Ball on H.M.S. Royal Alfred — Industrial homes — Bay of Fundy — St. John, N.B. — Hotel life— Torch light procession— Ball in the theatre — Voyage up the St. John Eiver — Fredericton — Woodstock — Grand Falls — Tadousac 92

Chapter IX The Fall

September-December 1873 Bathing at Tadousac — Quebec — Miss Florence Lees — Football — Convents — Paper chase — Visitors — The Stadacona Races — Ball at the Citadel — Montreal — Ottawa — Debate on the address — Resignation of Sir John Macdonald's cabinet— Curling— Mr. Mackenzie, the pew Premier — Christmas ... .... page 126

Chapter X Our Second Season At Ottawa

January-June 1874 The New Year's reception— Tableaux— Only 10° of frost !— The institutions of Ottawa — An ice storm — Concert — Montreal — Fancy dress ball in the rink— Ottawa — Curling match— A winter's drive — Caves — Electrical experiments — Opening of Parliament — Charles Kingsley — Laurence Oliphant — Citizens' ball in the Senate Chamber — Lumber mills — The Queen's Birthday — Excursions v .

Chapter XI Fishing On The St

LAWRENCE June- July 1874 Quebec — Gaspe — Mr. Eeynolds's camp on the York Eiver — Our camp on the St. John Eiver — Dominion Day- ' The Countess's Pool — A fog — Tadousac — Up the Saguenay — Chicoutimi — An Indian passenger— Murray Bay— The St. Anne Falls— Our cook's family 143

Chapter XII Ontario And The Lakes

July-September 1874 Trois Rivieres— Toronto — Rival hotels— Newmarket— Barrie— Lake Simcoe— The Narrows — Orillia— Ojibbeway Indians— Muskoka Lake— Bracebridge— Summit House — Settlers — Parry Sound— Collingwood— Owen Sound— Manitoulin Indians— Sault Ste. Marie — Michipicoten — Nipigon — A portage — Camping out — Lake Superior— Silver Islet — Prince Arthur's Landing — Indians at Shebandowan— Kamanistiqwa River — Lake Michigan Chica"0 The park— The Palmer House— Reception at the Exchange— The boulevards — The shops — Detroit — Sarnia — Lake Huron — Goderich— Salt works— Stratford— Guelph— Miss Macpherson's Home— Brantford— The Six Nations— Mr. George Brown's farm PAGE CONTENTS —Woodstock— London— Fire at Simcoe— St. Catherine's— Swing bridge over the Niagara River— The Falls— Mr. Plumb's house- Toronto -Lord DuiTerin's speech at the club— Whitby— Port Hope— Coburg— Iron mine— Belleville— Dr. Palmer's Deaf and Dumb Institution — Kingston — Brockville — Home again at Ottawa 156

Chapter XIII Winter And Spring

September 1874-May 1875 The Dominion Rifle Match— New York— The theatres and parks- Entertainments — Drive to ' Sleepy Hollow ' — Lord Dufferin goes to Washington— The Normal School— Night journey to Boston — Longfellow's house — Club dinner — A Universalist Church — Return to Ottawa — The steeple-chase— Visitors — An ideal Christmas Day — Children's tableaux — Lord Dufferin's visit to Montreal — Curling — Debate on Riel — Birth and christening of a son — Home on short leave — Delayed by ice and fog 99

Chapter XIV An Uneventful Season

October 1875-July 1876 R.M.S. Prussian — Ottawa — Skating — A rainy Christmas Day — Plays — Married v. Bachelors — Montreal — Ottawa — Opening of Parliament — Fancy dress balls — Theatricals — Ice block on the Rideau — Expedition up the Le Lievre — Quebec — After the fire — Lord Dufferin's speech — Procession of Jean Baptiste — Gaspe — Fishing on the York River — Archie's birthday — His departure for school — Ottawa — Preparations for the Grand Tour 216

Chapter XV Across The Continent And Along The Pacific Coast

August-September 1876 Our special train — A reporter and his request— Five o'clock tea — Chicago—Omaha — The Platte Valley— The Rocky Plains— Cheyenne PAGE 236 —The Alkali Plains— The Rocky Mountains— Ogden— Cape Horn —Travelling with a murderer — San Francisco — The Cliff House— A Killyleagh friend— H.M.S. Amethyst— The Pacific— Esquimault —Victoria— Party feeling— Busy days— Our Chinese cook and his wife— Regatta— Nanaimo— Bute Inlet— Safety Harbour—Metla catlah — Successful missionary efforts — Fort Simpson — Indian monuments— Queen Charlotte's Islands — Alert Bay— Burrard's Inlet — A heavy mail

Chapter XVI British Columbia, California And The Salt Lake City

September-October 1876 A forest giant — New Westminster — A speech in many tongues — The Fraser River — Yale — Hell's Gate — An Indian escort — Lytton — Indian grave — Mr. Cornwall's — Kamloops — A ' Pow-Pow ' — Down the Thompson River — Perilous drive — Victoria — Strange servants — Ball — Esquimault — Dry dock — A busy day — At sea — San Francisco — Good-bye to H.M.S. Amethyst — A 'Frisco merchant's country house — A Californian ball — Giving names — The Chinese theatre — Joss House — The return journey — Salt Lake City — Mormon society — Cheyenne — Denver — Hotel manners —Oregon Bill— St. Louis— Toronto 270

Chapter XVII Our Fifth Winter And Summer In Canada

October 1876-July 1877 Toronto— Lord Dufferin starts for Philadelphia— Montreal— Ottawa Tom Thumb— Sermon before the service— Christmas festivities- Toronto— Speeches— Ottawa— Theatricals— Presentation by the cabmen— Procession in honour of Pope Leo XIII.— Distinguished visitors— Quebec— In camp — Fishing— Tadousac .... CONTENTS 17 PAGB

Chapter XVIII

the north west August 1877 In the Cars— St. Paul— Minneapolis— Minnehaha Falls— Across the prairie — The Red River— Greetings on the way — The Frontier- Fort Garry — Winnipeg—' Silver Heights ' — An Indian's idea of religion — St. Boniface — The Hudson's Bay store — Lassoing — Sioux Indians — Ball at Winnipeg — A Red River cart — The Rockwood Penitentiary— St. Andrew's — Little Stone Fort— Selkirk— The Indian reserve — Winnipeg— Camping out — Mennonite settlement — A member of the local Parliament 312

Chapter XIX Manitoba

August-October 1877 Insect life on the prairie — Half-breeds — St. Andrew's — Pitching camp — On the Dawson route — A 'corduroy' road — The North-West Angle — Lake of the Woods — Canoeing on the Winnipeg Eiver — The White Dog Mission — Portages — Eapids — Fort Alexander — An Indian grave — Lake Winnipeg — S.S. Colville — The Saskatchewan — The first railway in the North-West — Flour 51. abag ! — Stone Fort — Gimla, the Icelandic settlement — Winnipeg — An Indian Lodge ' — Lake Manitoba — Duck-shooting— Portage La Prairie — Productive land — Want of good drinking-water — Silver Heights — The Canadian Pacific Eailway — Farewell dejeuner and speeches at Winnipeg — A happy family — The Military College, Kingston — Back to Ottawa 338

Chapter XX Our Last Season At Ottawa And Montreal

October 1877-June 1878 Earthquake — Christmas visitors — Bad accident — Tobogganing — Visit to Montreal — The Windsor Hotel — The McKay Institution — Villa Maria Convent— Ball — McGill College— Military display at thp 71, PAGJi 388 theatre— Convent of the Sacred Heart— Mount Royal Park —Fare well dinner — The Art Association Conversazione — Sickness at Ottawa — Death of Mr. Ward— ' Sweethearts '—A musical after noon with the House of Commons— Farewell address from both Houses of Parliament — Fancy bazaar — The Phonograph — The General Hospital, Montreal — The Queen's Birthday Review — Good-bye at Ottawa — The children leave for England . . . 369

Chapter XXI The Eastern Townships, And Last Days In Canada

June-August 1878 Gaspe1 — ' Tinker ' — Riots at Quebec — Our rooms occupied by soldiers — Island of Orleans — Farewell address from the Quebec Parliament — Visit to Boston — A New England home — A literary dinner party — Lord Dufferin takes his degree at the Harvard University — Longfellow — Mr. Adams — Quebec — A fog on the St. Lawrence — Fishing on the Metapediac— Run to Campbell Town — Rimouski — Bic— Fishing— Last visit to Tadousac— The 12th of July— The Maine Press Association— Sillery— The Roman Catholic bishops — Sir Edward Thornton's visit— Theatricals on the Island of Orleans— The Montmorency Falls— Expedition to the Chaudiere Falls — Danville — Sherbrooke — Lennoxville — Lake Massiwippi — Compton — Stanstead— Lake Memphremagog — Magog — Bolton - Waterloo — Granby — St. John's — Lake Champlain — Lake George — Juvenile coachman at Fort Henry — Good-bye Lord Dufferin's last days in Canada 416 INDEX ILLUSTRATIONS Lord Dufferin, Governor-General of Canada, 1872-78 . frontispiece (From a ptiotograph taken at Hie time in Canada) Indian Tents p. [7] Our House and the Hotel, Tadousac . ... to face p. 80 Gaspe „ 144 Our Hut (on the St. John River) p. 148 to face p. 316 The Mouth of the Red River and Lake Winnipeg Rat Portage p. 347 Indian Grave at Fort Alexander p, 351 La Roche Percee to face p. 362 Lady Dufferin „ 392 (From a sketch by Lord Duffenn) MAP at ena" 1872— 1878

Chapter I Arrival In Canada

S.S. 'Prussian': Friday, June 14th, 1872. — Ugh ! Ugh! horrid ! Very rough ; everybody ill except the wretched baby, Basil, who is perfectly well, but can get no one to dress him, and is handed about, unwashed, to engineers, waiters, to anyone who can stand. Monday, 17th. — The ship rolling from side to side till one's back aches. Such a noise of splashing and dash ing and falling about, and such fears lest my infants should follow the example of my toothbrush, and come flying across the room ! To add to my fears, two steerage passengers came to D. in the night, to inquire whether/ he thought there was any danger, and if the captain might not be asked to put into port until it became calmer. In the morning these men were found sleeping with life-belts on. Wednesday, lgth. — We are much better now, and quite enjoy our meals, which D. and I have in a cabin by our selves.

We are also able to look about, and find that there are 107 'street Arabs' on board, brought out by a saint of a woman, who, although very sick and miserable her- C- B CH. I 2 self, sings to them, reads out loud, goes down into the steerage, sees them to bed, and performs many other trying offices in the most unselfish manner. Miss Macpherson pays her own passage and expenses. Each child costs 10I. to bring out, and will eventually be adopted into a Canadian family, where it will have a happy home. This seems to be an excellent charity. Sunday, 23rd.— A. beautiful day— a hot sun and a per fectly calm sea. Our parasols and shady hats have come out for the first time, and Herinie and Basil ' are being made very much of by the convalescent passengers. Prepara tions are making for our arrival at Quebec ; and, as it has been discovered that there is no Canadian flag on board, my maid, Mrs. Dent, is busily engaged in trying to manufacture one.

Nobody is quite sure what it is, but all suppose that there must be a beaver and a maple-leaf in it. I sincerely hope that no great herald will be waiting to receive us. We have attended a meeting in the steerage, where some of the Canadian passengers talked to the emigrants about the country they are going to. D. also spoke, and told them that in Canada they need never complain, as he had heard one of them do, ' that he had too many children,' for that there the more they had the better. An enthusiastic young man on hearing this slapped D. on the back and said, ' That is just what I have been telling Emily.' Quebec: Tuesday, 23th. — A lovely morning. We an chored early, but did not land till ten, when the Ministers, Lieutenant-Governor, and several other officials, came on board, and with them we went ashore.

A salute was fired from the citadel as D. stepped on land, and we walked through lines of troops to a carriage-and-four, in which we drove to Spencer Wood, the Lieutenant-Governor's residence. We passed through Quebec, up a very steep hill. The road was rough, and it was extremely hot and dusty. Our youngest children. june 1872 ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC AND OTTAWA 3 I could not see the view as we were driving away from the river, and also, I was much occupied in looking at the people who filled the streets ; but when we got to Spencer Wood we were charmed with it, and it looks right down upon the St. Lawrence. At three o'clock D. was sworn in as Governor-General of Canada, and received some addresses of welcome, — but, as I remained quiet in my country retreat, I can tell you nothing of the ceremony.

Our host is Sir Narcisse Belleau; his wife is a nice quiet little French woman, and he is pleasant and kind. There was a dinner in the evening, — but I don't feel that I have seen enough of any of the guests to tell you about them to-day, except that the Prime Minister, Sir John Macdonald, is the image of Dizzy. Wednesday, 26th. — The papers give a most amusing de scription of D., stating his apparent weight and height. I am very flatteringly described, though the ignorant male writer speaks slightingly of my dress as being a ' plain blue silk,' whereas it was in reality excessively smart, and had caused me infinite trouble and anxiety ! However, I had the satisfaction of hearing from Lady Harriet Fletcher 2 that thi ladies knew better, and had appreciated it. Lady Harriet and I had a drive about the old town, and I was quite delighted with it.

The views are perfectly lovely, and it would be such a charming place to live in. — if only we had a house here ! In the afternoon we started for Ottawa in a magnificent river-steamer with four storeys and streets of cabins, and a grand table d'hdte on board. We sat on deck and enjoyed ourselves immensely as we went up the St. Law rence. I cannot tell you what a lovely voyage this was ! — so lovely that I cannot believe that we did it of necessity, and not for pleasure only. Thursday, 27th. — We arrived at Ottawa, the first view of * Daughter of the Earl of Romney, wife of Lord Dufferin's Military Secretary. R CH. I which is magnificent ; but once landed there was no time to look at anything ! There were nine addresses to be listened to, and after them we drove off to our new home ! ... We have been so very enthusiastic about everything hitherto that the first sight of Rideau Hall did lower our spirits just a little !

The road to it is rough and ugly, the house appears to me to be at the land's end, and there is no view whatever from it, though it is near the river— and we have come through hundreds of miles of splendid scenery to get to it ! Then I have never lived in a Government House before, and the inevitable bare tables and ornamentless rooms have a depressing effect : for the first time I realise that I have left my own home for many years, — and this is its substitute ! Friday, 28th. — Please forget the above growl. «The morning has brought more cheerful reflections. We are not intended to live here at midsummer, and I dare say that in winter this place looks lovely ! Our house is, they say, very warm and comfortable, and the Houses of Parliament — which, after all, I do see from my windows — are very beautiful.

And I can cover up the tables and supply the homey look which at present is wanting — so why did I grumble ? We have driven in state through the town, and have visited the Government buildings. I was delighted with the Senate, and with the Library — a large, circular room. When the House is sitting I may come and listen to debates, but the Governor-General may not ! The weather is extremely hot, and we are not going to remain here. D. goes to-morrow to inspect militia at Prescott, and I meet him there two days later. Monday, July 1st. — We went for a row on the river in the evening, which was delicious. It was very pretty ; and we had a breath of fresh air, and got out of a perspiration for the first time for a week ! We have been busy making a number of household arrangements. I have chosen my nurseries ; and it has JULY I872 HOUSEHOLD ARRANGEMENTS 5 been decided to add a storey to the little house in the garden in which the Fletchers will live, — for they have a number of children too.

The non-arrival of all our heavy luggage has been an anxiety; so far our Viceregal establishment possesses about six plates and as many cracked tea cups ; and our own supply of china, plate, and linen seems to be trying to see the country, and to travel for pleasure, instead of coming and settling down here as it should. Perhaps you may wonder where my children are all this time. The three elder ones are still in Europe, trying to learn a little French, and Hermione and Basil, who came out with us, are now at Riviere du Loup, where we have taken a house for the summer. There, also, are the Fletcher children. Colonel 3 and Lady Harriet Fletcher came out to Canada the mail before we did, and made all arrange ments for us and for themselves. He is the Military Secretary. We have two very nice A.D.C. s at present.

One of them was with Lord Lisgar, and has kindly volun teered to stay and help us for a time. The other is Mr. Coulson, who is regularly appointed, and who will remain even after Fred comes out. Please tell the latter that I find that an A.D.C. is a charming institution. These two ask me ' if I will drive,' ' or walk,' ' or boat,' or ' if I want anything from the town ' ; and if I turn my head, they find out what I am looking for, and get it for me. So Fred need not hope to get off any of his duties through my ignorance of them ! D. is very happy, and is much taken with the country and the people ; and all here seem pleased with him. I think that I am getting on pretty well too, — though I say it that should be silent in the matter; and the papers, who talk about us a good deal, lay great stress on my not being affected — a negative virtue which I may mention without appearing too conceited !

My attentive A.D.C. s have taken me to see the Chau- 3 The late Colonel Fletcher, C.M.G., Scots Fusilier Guards. CH. I diere Fall. It is close to Ottawa, and is very beautiful. There is a mass of water which appears to fall in three different directions into the same pool, and a great smoke of foam rises from the splash ; it looks just like a big cauldron. Close to it is a saw-mill. The trunks of forest trees are carried by the stream to the door of the mill, where they are caught by chains and slowly dragged into the teeth of a bundle of saws. After passing through these, the trees fall in planks, which are quickly taken up by another machine to have their sides neatly trimmed. As they pass a man marks them with a pencil according to their quality. After this we 'ran the slide,' which was very exciting.

The • slide ' is a long incline of water, divided into a series of small waterfalls, and is the artificial road by which the timber from the higher levels is brought down into the St. Lawrence. The wood is made up into rafts, and you sit upon these while they slip down the incline. It looks rather alarming to see one of these great monsters go head long into the water at the foot of each fall ; but, although I got on board with my heart in my mouth, I liked it ex tremely, and when I found myself safe on the calm level of the Ottawa, I would gladly have recommenced the journey had it been possible : but when one has slid down this steep hill of water to the river, one is miles away from the starting-point, and has to go home another way. The rafts and the quantities of wood lying about in all directions are the most curious sights here, but I see no really fine timber growing in this neighbourhood.

Wednesday, 3rd. — I left Ottawa early, and met D. at Prescott. He had been inspecting volunteer camps at Kingston and Prescott, and is to see another at Laprairie to-morrow. We shot the rapids. The rapids are places where there is a tremendous stream rushing over a rocky descent. When the steamer comes to them the engine is stopped, and the current carries the vessel over the broken water JULY 1872 RUNNING THE RAPIDS 7 at a great rate. If the pilot were to make a mistake, or to lose command of the ship, she would be wrecked. The rapids look like a stormy sea, but you do not go up and down in them, and rather feel as though the vessel were being buffeted about, and as if it were striking some hard substance. The worst rapid is called the ' Lachine,' and that does look rather alarming. The rapids are all down hill, and going at such a great pace the pilot4 appears to be steering straight upon some fearful rock, peeping above water, when just as you expect the crash, the stream takes the vessel and carries her clear of the danger.

We were met at Montreal by the Mayor and a guard of honour. Quebec : Friday, 3 th . — I saw a little of Montreal yester day, but not enough to warrant a description. We went to a little country place, where we had strawberries and cream under the trees, and when I returned to the hotel I received visitors. I find Canadian society very easy to get on with : the people talk, and they are very simple and natural, and willing to be pleased ; so that receiving seventy or eighty total strangers is made a pleasant instead of an arduous task, — as it might be. D. was occupied all day inspecting a camp, and in receiving addresses. We dined early, and went on board the steamer for Quebec. There were 800 passengers, most of them lying about on the floors ; but we had comfortable cabins, and slept well all night.